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• • Forums Gents, Local engagement in the forum spaces is very low. I might try to incorporate some areas into posts or pages as I refocus but if there is anything of particular value to you in a forum please save it for yourself. Cheers!

    Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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  • 1 week ago

    Arthur

  • RWD MM DIY Damper Plate The RWD MM (Mid Motor Mount) doesn't come with a damper plate as does the LM (Low Motor Mount). Who knows why not but the missing plate impacts handling quite noticably. If you swap out the MM for a LM mount you can use the stock LM damper as F1nutz has in his post. If you still wish to use the MM mount (or have no choice but to) then you can either add an aftermarket damper plate or make your own. [video width="1920" height="1080" mp4="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/MR-03-RWD-MM-Damper.mp4"][/video] It's easy to make your own using one of my favourite materials that are free: old credit/bank cards. After cutting out the three pieces (top and bottom circle plates and the middle doughnut plate) file down the shock screw mount which is attached to the top of the motor mount in order to lower it a few millis. Use a few 3mm DArt urethane washers to add some pressure to the centre plate (in lieu of springs) and tighten the screw till everything is snug. The tighter the screw the stiffer the movement.

    Started by: Arthur

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  • 2 weeks ago

    Arthur

  • Mini-Z Light Kit Socket Mapping and Connector For anyone interested in making their own Mini-Z light kit here is a pin map for the onboard ZH 1.5mm 4 pin light socket: Remember that the headlight circuit is controlled by a trim knob on the KT531P transmitter which can adjust the headlight LEDs from a slow flashing to constant on while the brake circuit is controlled by the throttle trigger which makes the red tail lights become brighter when the brakes are applied. You can find the connector on Amazon which comes with pre-crimped wires: 3mm 3v LEDs seem to be the best bet for most head/tail lamp openings. You can use them without adding resisters. Since they don't draw much power you can add as many as you want. Experimenting with other power sources (from the gyro socket or any other onboard tabs) may give interesting LED options even if those additional circuits would need to include a resister.

    Started by: Arthur

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  • 3 weeks ago

    Arthur

  • RWD LM 102mm (3L) to 98mm (LL) wheelbase conversion Ok so I had some time today to experiment a little so I decided to try and convert my LM chassis to fit an Acura NSX MM body. It took about an hour to do and the only modification I had to make was to remove about 2mm of plastic from the front edge of the shock restrictor plate hole. Suspension travel is minimal but the wheelbase now fits! I also swapped the wheels and reassembled the LM/MM T plate in the MM position. We’ll see how it runs next time we do a test session.

    Started by: f1nutz

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  • 4 weeks ago

    Arthur

  • How to Reset Your Mini-Z Steering Servo I was having a steering issue where the trim had to be set all the way to one end to centre the steering but found the following fix on line: With the transmitter turned off, center the wheels by hand as straight as you can. Then turn on the chassis, press and hold the bind button on the car until the light blinks quickly. Then you can turn your chassis back off. Once all that's done, turn your transmitter on, set steering trim to 0 (center) and turn your chassis back on. Repeat if necessary!

    Started by: f1nutz

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  • 1 month ago

    f1nutz

  • Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQs Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQ By Steve DeGeyter — October 16, 2023 Q: What does NiMH stand for? A: The material is Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) which has many advantages over other battery construction materials. Q: What is meant by battery memory? A: Older generation and batteries with other chemical make-up were subject to a memory effect. This is when a battery must be fully drained before recharge or their capacity is reduced. The New Generation of NIMH batteries do not develop a memory effect and can be recharged at anytime during usage cycle. When uncertain about battery charge level or condition, recharge it. Q: What is the mAh rating mean? A: This is a rating of energy storage capacity mAh = “milli-ampere hours”. So if you are comparing batteries to a AA with a 2000 mAh rating, it will have twice the capacity of a 1000 mAh rating. Q: What is the best application for NiMH batteries? A: Most all applications where there is a high energy consumption and demand, is where NiMH belongs. The most popular applications are digital cameras, flashlights, and toys. If you find yourself constantly buying alkaline batteries for an application, then you should consider using rechargeable NiMH. Q: How many times can a NiMH battery be recharged? Rechargeable NiHM BatteriesA: Lower capacity rechargeable AA batteries of 1700 up to 2000mAh can be recharged up to 1000 times in overnight slow charge mode, while 2100 to 2400 mAh rechargeable batteries can be recharged up to 600 to 800 times in overnight slow charge mode. The new higher capacity AA 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries have greater power capacity, but they can only be recharged approx 500 times in the overnight mode. Capacity improvement or quick charging will always decrease the number of cycles. Every cell available on the market above 2100 mAh will have below 1000 charge cycles. Q: What applications are not good places to use NiMH batteries? A: Any situation where the battery is not used within a 30 day period or low energy draw devices, for example smoke alarms, emergency flashlights, clocks, TV remotes, etc. Q: Why won’t NiMH batteries work in some applications such as smoke alarms? A: NiMH batteries self discharge about 1% per day so if used in a low energy consummation or stand-by device, the battery will only last about 90 days before requiring recharge. Q: Can I use a higher rated mAh battery in my electronic device (i.e. 1800mAh vs. 2000mAh)? A: Yes, the mAh rating will give you longer run times between recharges. The higher rated mAh of a battery has no effect on electronic devices other than they allow longer term use. Q: Why are AA and AAA batteries rated at 1.2 volts and alkaline batteries rated at 1.5 volts? A: In fact, over the course of their discharge, alkaline batteries actually average about 1.2 volts. The main difference is that an alkaline battery starts at 1.5 volts and gradually drops to less than 1.0 volts. NiMH batteries stay at about 1.2 volts for almost 80% of their discharge cycle. Once alkaline batteries discharge to 50% capacity, it will be delivering a lower voltage than a NiMH battery. Q: What you NEVER want to do with replaceable batteries? A: Never mix batteries from different manufacturers Never mix batteries of different capacities Never mix batteries of different chemistries, i.e. NiCd, NiMH, Lithium, etc. Never DROP the battery if you can help it as NiMH batteries damage internally quite easily Never store NiMH in the refrigerator Never expose to extreme heat Q: Do NiMH batteries lose capacity over time? A: Yes, but nothing drastic. About 10 to 15% of the battery mAh capacity will be lost at the 400 to 800 recharge level. This will vary greatly because of battery and charger quality, along with how the consumer treats their batteries. Q: When I receive my batteries do I need to charge them? A: Yes, before you use them for the first time, you need to charge your NiMH batteries fully. Please note that for new NiMH batteries, it is often necessary to cycle them at least three to five times or more before they reach peak performance and capacity. The first several times that you use your NiMH batteries you may find that they run down (discharge) quickly during use. Don’t worry, this is normal until the batteries actually structure internally. Q: Is there a difference in chargers. i.e, fast, slow, microprocessor controlled, etc? A: Yes, there are differences in the different chargers on the market today. If the charger was designed and sold in the past couple years and specifically says it is made to charge NiMH batteries you are probably okay. Most of the new chargers use a small computer chip to manage the charge and you should be getting at least 500 charges from your batteries. If not, buy a new charger. Some of the no name batteries sometimes have a short life. Fast chargers also tend to give shorter battery life of less than 500 charges. Q: How do dispose of old NiMH batteries? A: This is an easy one! While it is safe and legal in most states to dispose of your NiMH battery in your regular trash, we always encourage recycling whenever possible.

    Started by: Arthur

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  • 1 month ago

    f1nutz

  • Reinforcing the Front End – Mazda 787B The Kyosho Mini-Z hardbodies are quite brittle and impacts to the weak front quarters will likely crack the body just below the inner side of the headlamp casing. This happened to my 787B in what seemed to be a relatively minor tap of an inner border knuckle. Repaired left front quarter (see crack next to the tow hook) between the headlamp casing and the splitter - unpainted.The design of the narrow front body mounting bracket inside the nose of the model should handle head on impacts well enough - but exposes the front quarters. [caption id="attachment_42440" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Repaired left front quarter (after installing LED light kit). Notice the missing orange paint where the Plast-I-Weld was applied by brush to the underside. The paint on the surface remained fine.[/caption] The MR-03RWD chassis has provision to mount an added front bumper which could extend underneath the front splitter of the body but that's a separate topic - reinforcing the chassis - and for another day. Let me be clear with what I'm doing here - I'm no expert and not advising anyone to do this nor am I claiming that this is a good thing to do - it is simply an experiment that I'm sharing and the verdict will take time but I'm curious and willing to try. I'm relying on my own slot car experiences to see how much I can transfer to this branch of the hobby. That's all - and any comments, suggestions and improvements by reply are most welcome... So... To reinforce the front quarters I used a paper template and cut 1.6mm thick styrene sheet (as best I could) into two pieces designed to fit flush underneath the left and right headlamp casings. I then used Flex-I-File Plast-I-Weld applied liberally to bond the styrene to the bottom of the headlamp casings and along the edges butting the mounting box, the front and the sides. Be careful not to flood the headlamp casings or your clear lens covers will get damaged and the paint may bleed. Better yet, remove the lenses but don't gum up the tab openings with any adhesive. Flex-I-File's Plast-I-Weld Liquid Weld Satisfied with the strength of the weld so far I applied a thick filet of 5 minute two part epoxy to reinforce the quarters and fill the space above the mounting box. Haven't yet but I could paint the reinforced areas with flat black acrylic to make them a little prettier. Notice how the front white body mount (in white plastic) fits just inside the box and basically floats - and all of the momentum from any frontal impact of the body transfers to the white body mount (and chassis) through the two very small slightly wider 'tabs' extending just the width of that box. In any event, the extra styrene and epoxy added just 4.4g to the body - a small tradeoff for the piece of mind I now have. Weight of the Mazda 787B body (with light kit installed) before and after reinforcing the front end. [caption id="attachment_42435" align="alignleft" width="384"] Weight of the Mazda 787B Body with Light Kit[/caption] [caption id="attachment_42562" align="alignright" width="270"] Weight of the Mazda 787B body with light kit after reinforcing the front quarters.[/caption] My goal was to spread any minor impacts at the quarters to the whole front end of the body which I hope this does. Time will tell. Up next - an invisible (or discreet) front chassis bumper...

    Started by: Arthur

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  • 3 months ago

    Arthur

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