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    • 1:28 Decals For Mini Z decals I've found: MZ Decals from Japan - if you can find them - excellent quality - check Japanese online retailers - I ordered and received a set for the green and white 'efini' Mazda 787B from Studio27; Print Lab Decals - on demand - not sure about the quality since I haven't ordered any yet - but a little pricey - available from SpotModel - they have a good selection of GT3 sets and one Sauber Mercedes C9 set with both the YSL & Michelin liveries; Pattos Place - all of his water slide and vinyl decals are available in 1:28 (for the 1:24 price) - and are well priced around $14AU - email your order and ask for them in 1:28 - pay via paypal - he now has improved waterslide silk ink or laser sharp versions in addition to his vinyl - I just ordered all 3 sets in the laser sharp waterslide for the 1998 & 1999 Toyota GT One so I'll find out how good they really are after they arrive and report back here. If you find any 1:28 decals anywhere else please let us know and provide links too. Hope this helps your Mini Z journey... Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Mini-Z Platform

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    • 6 days ago

      Arthur

    • Toschi Ferrari 500 F2 Replica From regisbaron4446 shared on Instagram: [Roughly Translated] Aligned the axles which was tricky. I will make the aluminium wheels with wire spokes and knockoffs next.   Despite my research, I still do not know who made in France this aluminum copy of the famous promotional toy made for the ltalian distillery Toschi. In 1954, the great drivers, Juan-Manuel Fangio, Nino Farina, Aberto Ascari, Piero Taruffi and Maurice Trintignant received a copy filled with these 3 bottles of liqueur.

      Started by: Arthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • Can Am!! Must see video, chronicling history of the series. Not sure if I posted on prior iteration of the site, but here it is for your enjoyment! 1st race shown is Players 200 at Mosport, just prior to the creation of the Group 7 Can Am class, and then off to St.Jovite, which hosted the inaugural CanAm. Enjoy!   https://youtu.be/jQA9eZ5GCF8    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • Forums Gents, Local engagement in the forum spaces is very low. I might try to incorporate some areas into posts or pages as I refocus but if there is anything of particular value to you in a forum please save it for yourself. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • 1986 Benetton B186 My favourite F1 livery... The BMW Benetton B186 from the 1986 Hungarian GP piloted by Austrian Gerhard Berger. Rumoured to have had the highest HP engine in F1 history and if memory serves I believe set the fastest top speed ever recorded by an F1 car.

      Started by: Arthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Painting More Inserts Painted some inserts for a fellow slot enthusiast: Black isn't just black. Use a subtle dirt wash on the sides of the four spokes. Bring out your wire detail... if you don't want to sand out the detail you can use a wash: Spray with aluminium. Brush on flat black diluted 50/50 with iso alc. Brush on a dirt wash 50/50. Chrome knock off raised centre ring and tips only. DArt 450WIRE3KO wire wheel inserts were used. Customized 4 spoke McLaren 490 Inserts are made using 450LOT4SPKO with the centre knock off removed and 490ADAPTER added (fixed in place using 5 min. epoxy). These will fit standard Slot.It wheels now. Visit the DArt eSHOP for these inserts.

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • ‘Mini’ Bugatti Type 35 [Translated] From Instagram: In 1927, Ettore Bugatti made for his youngest son Roland, a mini Type 35, which was very successful. A small series of less than 500 copies will eventually be produced, all numbered and reserved in priority for the brand's loyal customer. (Young Prince - the future king of Morocco, Hassan I, is offered a Bugatti Baby, accompanied by his father, on the occasion of their visit to the Molsheim factories. The future king of Belgium, Baudouin, child, was also offered a copy) They are powered by a Paris Rhône electric motor powered by a 12-volt battery and linked by a crown sprocket to the rear axle. The aluminum sheet metal is mounted on a chassis, top speed of 18km/h. The front hood is held up by two leather straps, and the steering wheel is marked inside one of the "Baby 34" branches. The vehicle has a front blade suspension on a rigid axle. The rear has a fixed rigid axle. Front pivots and rear axle are now greasers. Direction, visually, is transmitted by kneepads and bars. The dashboard is equipped with a load control amp and a contactor/inverter (reversing/stop/forward step). Acceleration is ensured by a pedal that acts on a rheostat at 6 positions. The workout is done on the right rear wheel (creating a sort of differential), via a multiplier. And drum brake, on all 4 wheels, is cable controlled using a hand lever located on the right side, outside of the vehicle.  

      Started by: Arthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • RWD MM DIY Damper Plate The RWD MM (Mid Motor Mount) doesn't come with a damper plate as does the LM (Low Motor Mount). Who knows why not but the missing plate impacts handling quite noticably. If you swap out the MM for a LM mount you can use the stock LM damper as F1nutz has in his post. If you still wish to use the MM mount (or have no choice but to) then you can either add an aftermarket damper plate or make your own. [video width="1920" height="1080" mp4="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/MR-03-RWD-MM-Damper.mp4"][/video] It's easy to make your own using one of my favourite materials that are free: old credit/bank cards. After cutting out the three pieces (top and bottom circle plates and the middle doughnut plate) file down the shock screw mount which is attached to the top of the motor mount in order to lower it a few millis. Use a few 3mm DArt urethane washers to add some pressure to the centre plate (in lieu of springs) and tighten the screw till everything is snug. The tighter the screw the stiffer the movement.

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Dailey Hobbies, Whitby, Ontario I had an opportunity to visit Dailey Hobbies in Whitby. They have lots of cool stuff like at least 25-Group C models in 1/24 scale ranging from $43 to $49. They also had lots of Fujimi kits just above the $40 mark. Nice selection and prices. https://www.daileyhobbies.com/index.htm I really didn't need anything. But, this 1/24 Lamborghini was only $40. I've always wanted one without that silly wing. I swear it was calling my name.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • The Gary Klutt Podcast For those of you who would like to know the background and inside info on some famous Canadians involved in Racing (Paul Cooke of Comstock Racing fame, Scott Goodyear, Paul Tracy etc), check out The Gary Klutt Podcast on Youtube.   There are some fascinating stories from everyone.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Large Scale Model Kits 4 Mini-Z To help assist anyone interested in mating a 1:24/25 larger scale model kit body to a Mini-Z chassis I created a table which lists the wheelbase and front/rear tracks of various model kits to determine which might be easier to do. If you are in a position to contribute data for inclusion in this table simply reply below with the relevant particulars. Cheers! [table id=7 /]

      Started by: Arthur in: Mini-Z Platform

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Mini-Z Light Kit Socket Mapping and Connector For anyone interested in making their own Mini-Z light kit here is a pin map for the onboard ZH 1.5mm 4 pin light socket: Remember that the headlight circuit is controlled by a trim knob on the KT531P transmitter which can adjust the headlight LEDs from a slow flashing to constant on while the brake circuit is controlled by the throttle trigger which makes the red tail lights become brighter when the brakes are applied. You can find the connector on Amazon which comes with pre-crimped wires: 3mm 3v LEDs seem to be the best bet for most head/tail lamp openings. You can use them without adding resisters. Since they don't draw much power you can add as many as you want. Experimenting with other power sources (from the gyro socket or any other onboard tabs) may give interesting LED options even if those additional circuits would need to include a resister.

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Chassis mapping The more cars you make. The easier it gets to map out a body. Don't worry too much about sticking to the car list. I can map out a body fairly quickly. Show me some bodies that aren't normally slot cars. Those tend to be more interesting. Porsche911's 1961 Ford Ranchero is pretty cool. Not many of those around. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Chassis Catalogue

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • RWD LM 102mm (3L) to 98mm (LL) wheelbase conversion Ok so I had some time today to experiment a little so I decided to try and convert my LM chassis to fit an Acura NSX MM body. It took about an hour to do and the only modification I had to make was to remove about 2mm of plastic from the front edge of the shock restrictor plate hole. Suspension travel is minimal but the wheelbase now fits! I also swapped the wheels and reassembled the LM/MM T plate in the MM position. We’ll see how it runs next time we do a test session.

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 4 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • How to Reset Your Mini-Z Steering Servo I was having a steering issue where the trim had to be set all the way to one end to centre the steering but found the following fix on line: With the transmitter turned off, center the wheels by hand as straight as you can. Then turn on the chassis, press and hold the bind button on the car until the light blinks quickly. Then you can turn your chassis back off. Once all that's done, turn your transmitter on, set steering trim to 0 (center) and turn your chassis back on. Repeat if necessary!

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Recent Group 25 show Hello friendly slot car racers.  It was good to see many of you at the show. Art and I had a great day as vendors at the show yesterday. However, it's impossible to attend a show and not have clingons follow you home. Both these kits have one-piece bodies and should make excellent S24 or Mini-Z cars. First up is a '61 Ferrari 250 GT SWB. This Lamborghini Miura is another impressive kit. Thank you very kindly for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • The Zing II Version II of the Zing debuted last Saturday: This version incorporates a few lessons learned from the first one along with some new features. I also abandoned a few ideas I had after building the original... Made from painted RAM board this portable track has an approximate footprint of 17' x 8' and despite the small size and simple layout it packs a lot of racing fun in the space. With a half turn of each of the border wall barrier screws the borders themselves can be removed and the track rolled up so that it can be put away or transported. Slide the borders into the 8' long roll and it all fits neatly into a minivan or SUV... As for the track itself average track width is 30" - more than enough. Track borders are made from 7/8" high painted flexi-ply covered with non-marking 2mm black and white EVA foam which was hot glued to the flexi-ply. The walls follow the contour of the track therefore impacts tend to be glancing, not head on. For this reason thicker foam padding wasn't used especially at the ends of the layout but can be added if further testing warrants. Time will tell. The borders are fixed to the cardboard edges by sliding them onto the cardboard and then tightening the screw in each mounting block - one per block - each spaced roughly 12" apart - so that the screw bites into the cardboard pressing it against the base of the block itself. Remarkably these borders still have some flex too. Two sets of curbs define two racing lines - one more challenging than the other - use all of the same ones or mix them up. Movable red/white and black/white tire stacks placed inside either curb section deter short-cutting. While the red/white inner curbing uses 'bumpy' 2mm thick EVA foam the outer black/white curbs are just painted. Curbs on the outside of the main straight also provide a safe lane for slower cars to allow faster ones to pass so dealing with lapped traffic should be straightforward especially on such a short track. The flat acrylic paint offers the perfect amount of grip - not too much to flip a car. This track is somewhat bumpy but not at the seams. I made the mistake of painting it AFTER joining the sections... if you paint the board then join them you will get a smooth surface. Joints were made by adding a 5" wide painted strip of the same RAM board on the underside of the joint and both halves of the track were stuck snuggly together on top. Duct tape was also used underneath on both long edges of the 5" strip. I'm happy with the seams - and added a few to test other techniques - including some sloppy ones to see if they had any adverse impact. So far not... The bumps that exist are gentle 'rolling' ones and therefore manageable - they don't upset the direction of the car since the tires never lose contact with the surface - so no sudden changes in direction or unpredictable behaviour. It is fascinating to me to see the suspension do what it was designed to. I find it quite pleasing to watch the model negotiate an imperfectly flat track surface. This track runs well in both directions although my preferred direction is counter-clockwise. There is no pit lane yet but one can be added easily... we'll see... For timing I used the Android app 'LapTrax' which uses the camera and tracks cars by colour as they cross the start/finish line - it works fine so far but this isn't a long term solution. When the time comes I'm leaning towards using EasyLap hardware with micro transponders. Trakmate has a timing solution as well but I'm not that keen to use it myself for several reasons. After all of the moveable/removable tire stack clusters are added scenery will be made for the infield and then billboards to surround the outside corners then some sort of pit area/grandstand detail - whether pictures or lightweight facade... stay tuned... provided I don't head straight into the table top version next... perhaps a combined 1:24 slot car track and Mini-Z track... who knows... While racing the 1:27.5 Group C and GT models is a great start I see adapting 1:24 model kits to the Mini-Z platform as the future - Classic LeMans but RC 1:24 scale!!! Imagine!!! A Porsche 917/10 head to head against a Ferrari 512 Coda Lunga... hmmmm... who says it can't be done?

      Started by: Arthur in: The Zing

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQs Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQ By Steve DeGeyter — October 16, 2023 Q: What does NiMH stand for? A: The material is Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) which has many advantages over other battery construction materials. Q: What is meant by battery memory? A: Older generation and batteries with other chemical make-up were subject to a memory effect. This is when a battery must be fully drained before recharge or their capacity is reduced. The New Generation of NIMH batteries do not develop a memory effect and can be recharged at anytime during usage cycle. When uncertain about battery charge level or condition, recharge it. Q: What is the mAh rating mean? A: This is a rating of energy storage capacity mAh = “milli-ampere hours”. So if you are comparing batteries to a AA with a 2000 mAh rating, it will have twice the capacity of a 1000 mAh rating. Q: What is the best application for NiMH batteries? A: Most all applications where there is a high energy consumption and demand, is where NiMH belongs. The most popular applications are digital cameras, flashlights, and toys. If you find yourself constantly buying alkaline batteries for an application, then you should consider using rechargeable NiMH. Q: How many times can a NiMH battery be recharged? Rechargeable NiHM BatteriesA: Lower capacity rechargeable AA batteries of 1700 up to 2000mAh can be recharged up to 1000 times in overnight slow charge mode, while 2100 to 2400 mAh rechargeable batteries can be recharged up to 600 to 800 times in overnight slow charge mode. The new higher capacity AA 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries have greater power capacity, but they can only be recharged approx 500 times in the overnight mode. Capacity improvement or quick charging will always decrease the number of cycles. Every cell available on the market above 2100 mAh will have below 1000 charge cycles. Q: What applications are not good places to use NiMH batteries? A: Any situation where the battery is not used within a 30 day period or low energy draw devices, for example smoke alarms, emergency flashlights, clocks, TV remotes, etc. Q: Why won’t NiMH batteries work in some applications such as smoke alarms? A: NiMH batteries self discharge about 1% per day so if used in a low energy consummation or stand-by device, the battery will only last about 90 days before requiring recharge. Q: Can I use a higher rated mAh battery in my electronic device (i.e. 1800mAh vs. 2000mAh)? A: Yes, the mAh rating will give you longer run times between recharges. The higher rated mAh of a battery has no effect on electronic devices other than they allow longer term use. Q: Why are AA and AAA batteries rated at 1.2 volts and alkaline batteries rated at 1.5 volts? A: In fact, over the course of their discharge, alkaline batteries actually average about 1.2 volts. The main difference is that an alkaline battery starts at 1.5 volts and gradually drops to less than 1.0 volts. NiMH batteries stay at about 1.2 volts for almost 80% of their discharge cycle. Once alkaline batteries discharge to 50% capacity, it will be delivering a lower voltage than a NiMH battery. Q: What you NEVER want to do with replaceable batteries? A: Never mix batteries from different manufacturers Never mix batteries of different capacities Never mix batteries of different chemistries, i.e. NiCd, NiMH, Lithium, etc. Never DROP the battery if you can help it as NiMH batteries damage internally quite easily Never store NiMH in the refrigerator Never expose to extreme heat Q: Do NiMH batteries lose capacity over time? A: Yes, but nothing drastic. About 10 to 15% of the battery mAh capacity will be lost at the 400 to 800 recharge level. This will vary greatly because of battery and charger quality, along with how the consumer treats their batteries. Q: When I receive my batteries do I need to charge them? A: Yes, before you use them for the first time, you need to charge your NiMH batteries fully. Please note that for new NiMH batteries, it is often necessary to cycle them at least three to five times or more before they reach peak performance and capacity. The first several times that you use your NiMH batteries you may find that they run down (discharge) quickly during use. Don’t worry, this is normal until the batteries actually structure internally. Q: Is there a difference in chargers. i.e, fast, slow, microprocessor controlled, etc? A: Yes, there are differences in the different chargers on the market today. If the charger was designed and sold in the past couple years and specifically says it is made to charge NiMH batteries you are probably okay. Most of the new chargers use a small computer chip to manage the charge and you should be getting at least 500 charges from your batteries. If not, buy a new charger. Some of the no name batteries sometimes have a short life. Fast chargers also tend to give shorter battery life of less than 500 charges. Q: How do dispose of old NiMH batteries? A: This is an easy one! While it is safe and legal in most states to dispose of your NiMH battery in your regular trash, we always encourage recycling whenever possible.

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • 1:32 DArt Mirage BRM M2 Body Kit 1969 Mirage BRM M2 1:32 Body Kit by DArt A stunning endurance prototype from 1969 - the perfect racing sister to the Ferrari 312P. This hand made DArt body kit is based on the original Aurora release. Molded in lightweight and resilient white plastic this one piece shell with clear plastic windscreen and separate clear headlamp lenses is perfect for any sidewinder, anglewinder or inline application. The shell alone is 142mm long x 68mm wide and weighs in at approximately 20.0 grams including windscreen and lenses. The wheelbase is approximately 75.0mm. This Mirage BRM M2 body kit includes the following pieces: One lightweight plastic body; Large clear plastic windscreen and side windows; One pair of clear headlight lenses; Pilot (shoulders, arms and head) with steering wheel and black foam 'card'; and DArt medium size 11.44mm 4506SP3KO plastic wheel inserts (4) with adapter rings for Slot.It wheels (4). No decals are provided. A limited run of 10 will be available for pickup at the Group 25 model show this Sunday March 3, 2024 or thereafter from DArt. Cost at the show (and thereafter) is $65. Order and reserve yours online now for $55 and save $10! Free pickup on Sunday at the show or email DArt to arrange another convenient pick up option. For those not local select the mailing option and your kit will be mailed next Monday (postage added at checkout). Order Now!

      Started by: Arthur in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Rally Class (RC) Rally Class (RC) v1.0 Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3: RC – Rally (Open Class)  Eligible Models: Any manufacturer’s Rally Car body (as raced with Fog Lights and Co Driver)  Chassis - Plastic Chassis (May be Stiffened), Glass appropriate to model  Motor and Configuration – Any up to 22K

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Arthur

    • Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v1.0 Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3: HR - Hot Rod Class (Unlimited Class)  Any manufacturer with or without fenders – Model Years 1901 thru 1959;  Motor - BWMS050 in an inline configuration  Maximum tire width – 6mm  Maximum overall width of front and rear rolling assemblies is 51mm. Bodies/fenders may be wider;

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Arthur

    • Mini Infinity Routed HO Track Art was kind enough to accept the challenge to create a new HO track on a 3' foot by 7' foot base. It's a very cool layout. It's made of 3/8" inch MDF. The copper tape was custom spaced for HO cars. Variable power supply 0-30 volts - 10 amps. Track-Mate driver stations so Professor Motor 1/32 controllers can be used. Braids need to be installed on every car. The Thunderjet guide pins need to be sleeved to increase the diameter. I have mostly silicone HO tires, so this is a dedicated silicone track.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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      Avatar photoKen

    • Spa Lyons Feb 10 2024 A Speedy 6 descended on Spa, 1st event in a long time, and Brian J's inaugural pilgrimage to the Holy land of Milton.. :>) An interesting escalation of decades and speeds were the selected program for the day. Though Valentines Day was days away, no Love lost on the circuit! 1st up was Hot Rods, Brillcream, Beachboys, and the acrid smell of Burnouts filled the air... Fred's Tudor was tu fast for the rest of the fleet, though the Greektown Garage 49 was a Souvlaki away from taking the top spot, followed by the Rat Finked 32 for the podium. The Chicken flew the coop, and had it not been Super Bowl weekend, "1.45 Billion Chicken Wings consumed", it may have been in flight! Next on the dance card was 60's Sportscars, no rolled up shirtsleeves with Marlboros for these pilots at the wheel of these 'Fine Foreign Fenders', their girlfriends riding Vespa's side saddle, pondering if "Henri" will be there for Diner, as per Sir Jackie, "a time when Sex was safe, and Motor racing dangerous(I love that!) :>) A scant 1.4 seconds separated the podium, with Sir Jackie, errr Sir Kenneth of Scarborough(sounds quite regal) taking the top spot, and the kiss of course!   Now up a decade, Classic Lemans but 'hot motored'... But 1st a sidebar..."Karate Kris", whilst Marshalling, displayed his finely honed "Oi-zuki" (lunge punch), perhaps he and Gary have the same Sensei... :>) But all fine, nowhere near the carnage of 55 Lemans, or for that matter, Jimbo's Surgical slicing...but I digress... Sir Surtees prevailed, with some very fine fine duels, and the bespoke 917 showed some promise(now back to the Skunkwerks!)  Fast forward 30+ years, and now the Pilots of yesteryear are hopefully watching, wondering what THEY could have done with such technological marvels! Modern LMP, have at it! Hmmm, looks like I have to add pics later...stay tuned    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: R32

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      Chris

    • T32 Report – February 8, 2024 [foogallery id="42845"] Gents See the race results tally for the Boulevard Cruiser and Revoslot Jr series. Points are awarded to the top 6 in descending order (6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1) and 1 point is awarded to the fastest lap without breaking out. Boulevard Cruiser Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 2 DNA 4 5 6 3 6 0 29 4th Art DNA DNA DNA 0 DNA DNA 0 2.5 1 3.5 8th Brian 2 DNA 3 0 0 1 1 0 0 7 7th Gary 5 4 DNA 1 2 DNA 2 3 5 22 6th Jim DNQ 7 6 6 7 3 7 1 6 43 1st Ken 7 1 6 3 3 2 5 5.5 4 36.5 2nd Marcello 4 5 4 3 1 4 0 0 2 23 5th Robert 1 3 DNA 5 4 6 4 4 4 31 3rd Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 0 0 9th Podium - Jim 66 laps; Gary 64 laps; Cupcake 64 laps Kudos to Ken with the fast lap of 8.102 in blue lane Revoslot Jr. Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 3 DNA 0 3 4 0 1 0 14 7th Art DNA DNA DNA 2 DNA DNA 5 2 6 15 5th Brian 2 DNA 3 1 2 1 3 0 3 15 6th Gary 5 5 DNA 4 4 DNA 4 5 2 29 3rd Jim DNQ 6 7 6 7 7 6 7 6 52 1st Ken 7 1 4 0 1 2 1 0 4 20 5th Marcello 4 6 5 4 5 6 4 3 0 37 2nd Robert 1 2 DNA 5 0 3 2 4 0 17 4th Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 1 1 9th Podium Jim 68 laps; Art 68 laps; Ken 68 laps Kudos to Art with the fast lap of 7.602 in yellow lane Kudos to Van for earning his first point in the Boulevard Cruiser class placing 6th with 66 laps! Vintage Mini results - night race 1) Jim with 57 laps; 2) Gary with 57 laps; Marcello with 55 laps.  Ken with the fast lap 9.407 and many faster laps with breakouts but his car was DQ due to no lights. Slot it DTM Results 1) Jim 73 laps; Gary 57 laps; Marcello 55 laps LeMans 22k 1) Jim 79 laps; Gary 72 laps; Art 70 laps The host enjoyed home track advantage to the max on this night. Thanks to all participants who made this another fun evening of racing! Stay tuned for Cupcakes invite with announcement of classes for our next race on Thursday Feb 22, 2024. Keep the pedal to the metal boys!

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 61 Ranchero Hot Rod Though my 'handle' here is Porsche911, I LOVED the 'American Muscle' that ruled the roads in the 60's and 70's, Stangs, Camaro's, Cuda's and such, and as we have a 'Hot Rod' class, I wanted something...as John Cleese would say, "And now for something completely different". :>) I thought a departure, different than most of the others, and had an 'AMT Scale Stars' 61 Ranchero tucked away, so this is it. Because I elected to go with supplied full interior, it's likely nowhere near slammed low enough, nor light enough to be too fast but I think it looks Baaaad, if you're into that type of thing. Going forward, should I acquire another 1, I'd use a flat/card interior, and also rip out the entire bed and cover with a tonneau top. I did have to cut a wee bit to accommodate crown gear, hence the 'beverages' in the back, plus a guy could thirsty driving this. :>) Added some 'smoke' to tailpipes, and the 'Skull' to grill, might not be everyone's cuppa but after test fit, I loved it. Alas, my photo skills/lighting aren't the greatest so you may not be able to see the small decal details(all homemade). Lovely KRZ chassis fitted, slimcan 'Vanski' motor, 10X23, RS Slot wheels, D'Art inserts, driver by Pioneer and lady friend vintage Revell. Vinnies Hot Rods of Fresno has given the 'Lil Devil' a shakedown, and it's about 3/4 of a second off where it would be somewhat competitive, but it's fun, who knew I could be whimsical...LOL Hope you enjoy, Cheers!  

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Two Lane Blacktop-inspired ’55 Chevy Hey guys, I haven't raced with the group for a while. Having been invited back into the fold there were a few classes that I need to build cars for. One of which is Hot Rods. During the pandemic I ended up ordering a few movies to pass the time - one of which was Two Lane Blacktop. I had never seen it before, and it's really worth a watch. It's French New Wave meets hot rods in the best possible way. The hero car of the film is a '55 Chevy driven by "The Driver" (musician James Taylor), and worked on by "The Mechanic" (Beach Boys drummer Dennis Wilson). They travel from town to town with The Girl (Laurie Bird) engaging in street races and trying to hustle a few bucks along the way. Eventually the meet up with "G.T.O" (Warren Oates - I'll let you guess what he drives) who challenges them to a race to Washington D. C. - the winner taking the loser's car. I'm a big fan of movie cars, so after seeing this movie I set out to find myself a '55 Chevy body. I was lucky to find a Monogram Snap-Tite kit in 1/32 scale on ePay. Hot Rod rules call for the BWA FF050 slim can in an inline configuration with skinny wheels. Being a fan of the Slot.it HRS2 chassis I was able to source an FF050 motor pod on Shapeways. With all the bits and pieces in hand, it was time to hit the spray booth aka the level 3 stairwell vestibule in my condo's parking structure. Here's what I ended up with: The hood scoop is fabricated out of Evergreen sheet styrene. Driver is a vac-formed interior from Slot Car Corner. I went with the slammed stance since that's what it takes to get the CG down low. I opted for the side pipes because - why not? Anyhow, we'll see how well it runs at the next Hot Rod race. See you guys then! - DrV

      Started by: Avatar photoDrVanski in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Welcome to T32 – The Toronto 1:32nd Slotters! Welcome to the T32 forum on Scratch32! If you are one of the lucky 9 to race with this Toronto based private slot car group you'll already know why. Races are held twice a month at both The River in Toronto and Cupcake Raceway in Vaughan. T32 races a combination of R32, SOS and their own unique classes as selected by their hosts. Class rules can be found here. This forum is moderated by JMSracer.

      Started by: Arthur in: T32

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoDrVanski

    • Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) (Open Class) v1.0 Courtesy JMSracer: Rules for CLM22 - Classic LeMans 22k (Open Class) Eligible Models; Any manufacturers Sidewinder prototype cars which competed at LeMans between 1965†through 1970.  Brands Include but are not limited to Slot it, NSR, Thunderslot, Fly, SRC, Scalextric, Monogram, Policar, Spirit… Stock Body, Interior, Plastic Chassis-May be Stiffened. Glass appropriate to model Motor must be an S-Can 22,000 rpm or lower; Slot it orange, NSR 22k, MR Slotcar, Thunderslot, or Piranha 21.5k…… This class was originally created to allow racing of the stock Slot it GT 40's with orange motors and expanded to include all the rival models that raced at LeMans.

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA) Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA) v1.0 Courtesy JMSracer: Rules for Revoslot TransAm Jr series; which includes the Alfa Romeo GTA's; Ford Escort MK1; BMW 2002's; and the Opel Kadet GT/E ONLY! This is a stock class and all that can be done is blueprinting, changing the guide with the deep wood guide that comes with the cars as a spare guide and installing Dart of KK urethane tires. Click on the link below to see a video on how to blueprint the Revoslot cars. Many have used the Dart rubber washers to install between the chassis instead of the Gorilla tape as recommended in the video, your choice.  Be careful not to true your front tires too much, they may not touch the track.  Some have bent the front part of their chassis to make the front touch the track in cases where the front was not touching. Revoslot Advance Tuning

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Courtesy of JMSracer: Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged).   Motor: BWNC1 only (only BWA S-can)   Chassis: Any in any configuration, with any gearing   Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Vintage Mini (VM) Vintage Mini (VM) (Modified Class) v1.0 Courtesy of JMSracer: Eligible Models: Scalextric 1959 and 1960's Vintage Mini's.  Inline with 14k slimline motor (Morris Mini's, Mini Cooper's);   Stock - Body, Interior, Chassis, Glass, Lights with modified slow slim BWA Motor .   Minimum overall weight – 70gm   Gear ratio 9 or 10 T pinion / 21 stock crown gear not to be tampered with   Wheel track must be kept within the model's body width, the wheels must not be visible when viewing the car from above.  Typically 43.5mm wide at rear and 44.5mm wide at front.   Permitted modification - can switch stock front stub axles with solid axle which will require a modification to guide with B-nova.  Also upgrade stock plastic wheels with aluminium replacements.   Basically, you should remove the stock stub axles in the front and install a solid axle which allows independent front wheel rotation, this will require you to cut the stock guide holder down to about 1mm thickness and install a B-Nova/ CG Slot guide adaptor to give the reduced guide holder some additional strength/support.  Install as much weight as you want, there is a minimum weight of 70 grams.  Remove the tiny 21T stock crown from the stock axle and install it onto a better replacement axle and replace all plastic wheels with aluminium wheels.  You must keep the 21T stock crown but can replace the stock 9T plastic pinion with a 10T brass/steel pinion.

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

    • 0
    • 0
    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Reinforcing the Front End – Mazda 787B The Kyosho Mini-Z hardbodies are quite brittle and impacts to the weak front quarters will likely crack the body just below the inner side of the headlamp casing. This happened to my 787B in what seemed to be a relatively minor tap of an inner border knuckle. Repaired left front quarter (see crack next to the tow hook) between the headlamp casing and the splitter - unpainted.The design of the narrow front body mounting bracket inside the nose of the model should handle head on impacts well enough - but exposes the front quarters. [caption id="attachment_42440" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Repaired left front quarter (after installing LED light kit). Notice the missing orange paint where the Plast-I-Weld was applied by brush to the underside. The paint on the surface remained fine.[/caption] The MR-03RWD chassis has provision to mount an added front bumper which could extend underneath the front splitter of the body but that's a separate topic - reinforcing the chassis - and for another day. Let me be clear with what I'm doing here - I'm no expert and not advising anyone to do this nor am I claiming that this is a good thing to do - it is simply an experiment that I'm sharing and the verdict will take time but I'm curious and willing to try. I'm relying on my own slot car experiences to see how much I can transfer to this branch of the hobby. That's all - and any comments, suggestions and improvements by reply are most welcome... So... To reinforce the front quarters I used a paper template and cut 1.6mm thick styrene sheet (as best I could) into two pieces designed to fit flush underneath the left and right headlamp casings. I then used Flex-I-File Plast-I-Weld applied liberally to bond the styrene to the bottom of the headlamp casings and along the edges butting the mounting box, the front and the sides. Be careful not to flood the headlamp casings or your clear lens covers will get damaged and the paint may bleed. Better yet, remove the lenses but don't gum up the tab openings with any adhesive. Flex-I-File's Plast-I-Weld Liquid Weld Satisfied with the strength of the weld so far I applied a thick filet of 5 minute two part epoxy to reinforce the quarters and fill the space above the mounting box. Haven't yet but I could paint the reinforced areas with flat black acrylic to make them a little prettier. Notice how the front white body mount (in white plastic) fits just inside the box and basically floats - and all of the momentum from any frontal impact of the body transfers to the white body mount (and chassis) through the two very small slightly wider 'tabs' extending just the width of that box. In any event, the extra styrene and epoxy added just 4.4g to the body - a small tradeoff for the piece of mind I now have. Weight of the Mazda 787B body (with light kit installed) before and after reinforcing the front end. [caption id="attachment_42435" align="alignleft" width="384"] Weight of the Mazda 787B Body with Light Kit[/caption] [caption id="attachment_42562" align="alignright" width="270"] Weight of the Mazda 787B body with light kit after reinforcing the front quarters.[/caption] My goal was to spread any minor impacts at the quarters to the whole front end of the body which I hope this does. Time will tell. Up next - an invisible (or discreet) front chassis bumper...

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • The Zing A basement track (no matter how small) to test, run and possibly race a Mini Z in the comfort of ones' own home is a rather nice luxury... so the project begins... let's see what can reasonably fit into the space I have right now... if testing proves that it is enough then a more permanent solution can be pursued... Just using EVA tiles with generic square corner foam barriers doesn't turn my crank - the track, just like the models on it, must have curb appeal. Let's get going with a paper template to test with and see what's possible. [caption id="attachment_42376" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Laying out the basic footprint using scrap paper.[/caption]

      Started by: Arthur in: The Zing

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    • 3 months ago

      Luis Meza

    • NSR 917 White Kit FINALLY got around to finishing a 'White Kit' I painted and mostly decaled a long time ago...was in the "To be completed" group(along with many others) :>) Anyway, done...Took a while to configure a Pioneer driver as the NSR pilot just doesn't look right proportion, but it is a very nice kit. Will no doubt be waaay underpowered in the 'unlimited VLM' class, but so be it.    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 3 months ago

      Luis Meza

    • Corvair progress, slowly…. Getting there,  I know, I know, do posts 1st, aesthetics last....well, perhaps a slow learner.....I had an opportunity for a few (rare) hours, so decided I would graphic my Corvair kit. All all old homemade decals(work well on white/silver bodies)Awaiting the chassis setup/motor/gears/wheels etc(KRZ chassis, thanks KRZ!)   Made a little 'scoop too'      

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Spray Booth Number Three My first spray booth was the basement kitchen fan with a big cardboard box. Overspray wasn't an issue since the basement was eventually going to be renovated. I painted about 60+ cars before having to make changes. After the renovations, I moved the spray area closer to the kitchen window. But the fan was actually higher in the room than the kitchen fan, and was less effective even with a much bigger fan. It moved the smelly air out of the room. But the overspray dust was like a cloud slowly moving to the floor. Let's just agree that it was a total failure. I painted one or two HO cars, and decided to undo everything. It was either outside, or nothing now. I needed to use gravity to my advantage. So far it's been working against me. I bought a wardrobe box from U-Haul for $19.95. It measures 24"x24"x48" inches closed. 60" inches tall with the top flaps open. It barely fits in the shower stall. I installed two 6" inch vents at the back to evacuate the fumes. A plywood plate was cut to perfectly fit into the window slot. Two 6" inch metal joiners were glued into the plywood plate for the flexible hose. The shower has a plastic drop-sheet lining the entire thing. You can't be too safe. I have hanging lights on both sides so I can see properly. Blocks were glued to keep the flaps open. The evacuation vents had to be staggered because they didn't quite fit beside each other. When the booth isn't being used. The plate and flexible ductwork are at rest beside the sink. It was finished last night. Ted came over with an unpainted Pioneer Mustang today, and the booth is an absolute success. The overspray cloud falls to the bottom of the box. Nothing escapes into the washroom itself except barely a light smell. You can't smell the fumes outside the washroom door with the door wide open. Perfect. The power for the booth comes from an old 24" inch fan. It moves enough air to easily dilute the fumes. I need to watch that I don't leave it running too long after painting. It removes a lot of warmth from the house very quickly. Thank you very kindly for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 4 hours ago

      Arthur

    • S24 Dec 16/23 With Christmas around the corner. It was good to finish off the year with some relaxing laps around the track with the bigger cars. There were a few cars missing, as well as a few new ones. Up first is Felix's Monte Carlo. Sittin' low and looking sharp on a brass chassis. Chris B showed up with two new cars. A '60 Starliner, and a '67 Comet Cyclone GT. Nothing like jumping in with two feet. MIA made a new foam interior for his car. It went on a diet and lost a ton of weight. He says it accelerates much faster. The jury is still out on whether it's an improvement or not. Crazy paint and stripes on this car! Jim installed a new lightweight interior in his pink '60 Starliner. That almost completes the car. But his new '62 ultra red BelAir complete with interior sure made everyone's eyes pop! More new stuff to come next month! Merry Christmas to everyone!!!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 4 months ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • In Memory of Model Murdering AKA Bill Hall A talented friend and personal HO mentor recently passed away from a massive stroke. Bill Hall was truly an Aurora HO master. He was a reputable Porsche mechanic in the 1:1 world. But he loved tinkering with slot cars. Bill did not invent "goop" (50% plastic and 50% Testors 3502 plastic cement). But he sure was an artist with it. Bill repaired old and rare cars that were long since discontinued back in the 60's. He could take a car that was stepped on, missing body posts and quarter panels. And reform every part to a factory finish. In proper colour, and without paint. I'll let the pics speak for themselves. Slate grey is one of the rarest Aurora split window Stingrays for HO size slot cars. Bill didn't get a chance to polish it before passing away. An old El Camino that got crushed. Beside broken window posts. One of the second biggest issues with old Aurora cars is many people opened up the rear fender wells with a rough blade or file to get monster tires to stick out past the body. The flea markets are littered with them. Most colours aren't worth saving. But black ones sure are. R.I.P. my dear friend Bill Hall.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 3 months ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Spa Session December 9 2023 It had been quite a while since the formidable Spa circuit hosted and event, and the crowd of Belgian Bottomed Belgian Beauty's fueled with Belgian Brew waited in excited anticipation. What was to be a joust amongst the Fearless Five turned out to be the 'Fab Four', as alas, our Fearless leader could not attend. :>( Mia, Bill, Chris in his inaugural/debut and the host.. The crowd was treated to some good ol' Suthren fun in the 1st event, Nastycab, lots of rubbin', but no tuggin'. :>) The Sharpie and it's pilot certainly were, and clearly, the Rainbow Warrior has spent far too much time of late in the commentary box, as his skill was far from Sharp! Next up, a slightly more refined group of gentlemen drivers made their way from the paddock to start, for a Classic Battle, the Porschekrieg of Classic LM. The Ferrari teams were not present, as they had enjoyed too much Grappa, Cannelloni, and local female enticement the prior evening... A brief interlude whilst fans nourished and replenished fluids, and then to the frenetic pace of GRP C, which saw a battle of teams representing former allied nations of WWII, Porsche, Lancia and Toyota. :>) The Canon was rocket like, and the 2 Toyo's finished a scant 1.25 seconds apart for 2nd/ 3rd The closing event was another Grupen fest, this time, FUNF! The MOMO should have been a little SLO-MO, as jumping the line(dare I say premature) proved to be costly, as the Fruit of the loom was smooth as silk and prevailed by a lengthy extension. :>) A fun day indeed, though 1 marred by the fatalities of many spectators during numerous shunts, not seen since the days of Jimbo's surgical Scaleauto slicing tragedy... Looking forward to next 1!    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • IROC 2024 Series Gents, Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too! Interested? The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery. Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations: Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout; Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone; Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes); Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well); On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races. Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race. Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible. The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models. If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation. Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point... This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly. The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100... Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...) Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant. The following molded colours will become available: Green (sold) Yellow (sold) Red (sold) Blue (sold) Charcoal White Orange (sold) Purple Brown/Rust Pink (sold) Baby Blue Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish. Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that competed in a state or club sanctioned road, rally, endurance race or a grand prix between the years 1900 through to 1939 anywhere in the world; Low Power BWMS050 Motor Only; Any Inline Chassis; Wheels: Must not exceed 16.5 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in width; Tires: DArt urethane club series (DA0210 recommended). Tires must not exceed 23 mm in diameter; and Maximum Width: 51mm (actually 50.8 mm – excluding fenders or insert detail which may extend beyond).

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • 66 Corvair Long before I joined S32 and Group 25. I built an AMT 1/25 static 1966 Corvair. I didn't paint it because I didn't know how. I eventually learned how to disassemble and paint cars. It was time to re-visit the old Corvair. It has a new chassis with a corrected wheelbase.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Recent Slot Car Flea Market This is the fourth year that Michael and I made the trek out to Dungannon for the flea market. It's always a beautiful drive out to the country this time of year. We always have a lot of fun. Here are a few pics from the show. Lots of HO scale vendors there. But there's always a few 1/32 temptations. I only bought one 1/32 car. Something I've been looking for, for a long time. The yellow Boss 302 Mustang in street trim. And a few old HO cars. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Wouldn’t this be fun!!! Perhaps if we pool ALL of our $$$$$, we could share this for 'runabouts'...LOL   https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1965-brabham-bt14?utm_source=Email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=SF_CC_Global_Daily_v6_17/October/2023&utm_term=&utm_id=425205&sfmc_id=36918294   Wonder if there's a reasonable facsimile of the Transporter in 32'nd scale??   Enjoy!!  

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Bearings and axles Greetings from Bancroft gentlemen. I usually take something with me when I go to the cottage. The Watson Indy needed to be assembled. Every once in a while I run into an oversized axle that doesn’t fit the bearings. I’m glad I brought other things to do. Too bad I only brought two axles for the build. Make sure to bring a bearing with you to Ernie’s to test any axles you want to buy. Ernie doesn’t make the axles himself and will happily exchange any axle that doesn’t fit.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Recent Group 25 Show The show was a success. But it did have a few set backs. I was not feeling well and arrived very late. No early bird specials for me. Art was held back and could not make it. Everyone wishes him well, and sent greetings. Comparison to last year: Show stats. Contest - 162 entries  Last year 210 entries # through the door....436    Last year…383 I had no desire to buy anything this year. But staring across at Marty and Cindy's tables all day was a temptation in itself. A Ferrari for $15. Someone already started the chassis. Shame. Slot car maybe? I bought this for $20. Thanks Marty and Cindy! Ted and I often trade stuff. He donated this to me. A Strombecker Citroen?! It's in amazing shape except for the tires. Thanks Ted!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 71 Charger RT Someone requested a lesson in paint. Today was the day. I needed something to paint in order to show what to avoid. The only body I had ready to paint was an AMT 71 Charger RT. It was one of my first model car kits as a 10-year old. Time to fulfill an old childhood dream and make this one go! This colour leans more towards a Kawasaki green. No metallic. I think it suits the car. Now I can put it aside for a few weeks while I do other things.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • Baldwin Motion Vega I was recently talking to a friend about this car. It's nothing like its little sister with the 4-cyl failure with the aluminum block. If a Motion Camaro, Vega, or Corvette came up to your sports car at a red light. You quickly made a right turn to avoid being embarrassed. You can just barely detect the 454 badge on the side of the fender. A sleeper it wasn't. You could hear one coming for you half a mile away.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

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    • 7 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Goodwood II 2023 Goodwood II After a wonderful day in Kimberly, Ontario, the latest work on Goodwood II is complete. Sinkhole patched, final touchups done, straw bales & tire stacks added and original track structures back in place. Trackmate hardware & software tested and racing surface thoroughly cleaned. A big thank you to Ken for all of his help and to Scott for his generous hospitality as always. [foogallery id="41220"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 64 Impala SS The green colour of this Impala is amazing. A white vinyl roof really sets it off. Drew did a stunning job with the paint. The hood was epoxied in place. Then the extra posts for the static chassis were trimmed off.  The rad support was also removed. The chassis was assembled to set the height of the body posts. The post lengths are 31mm front, and 30mm rear. The numbers on the chassis are the tire diameters. The body will sit about 1mm higher with the stainless and urethane washers added. This is the same body height as the Olds 442. The wheel well shape makes it look very different. A thicker washer can be added to the rear body posts to create a little more rake. More to follow. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Revoslot Sr/Jr & Boulevard Cruisers For those racing at Riverdale and Cupcake: This is just a reminder that the Revoslot Jr and the Sr class are both "STOCK" classes.  This means you cannot change the gearing, all you are allowed to do is to blueprint the cars and install urethane tires.  If you ever strip a gear which is almost impossible to do unless you are doing something wrong.... you must replace it with the stock gear that came with the cars.  Going forward, before you make any modifications to your cars, please read the rules first. In the Revoslot Jr class; all but the BMW 2002 are geared 9/24; the BMW is 9/23 and I believe one of them is 9/27. Big Boat vs Boulevard Cruiser. A follow up reminder, the Boulevard Cruiser is an open class except for motor which is limited to only the 14k BWA S-Can.  There is no weight limit and you can have any chassis, any gearing, urethane rear tires.  Any body 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended; Vs. Big Boat Although this class allows literally all the same models as the Boulevard Cruiser... This class has a minimum weight, body length. open gearing, open chassis and allows a 15k JACK RABBIT MOTOR. The way to remember it is Boulevard Crusiser is only BWA motor, Big Boat is Jack Rabbit motor...

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 7 months ago

      Arthur

    • Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 Test Car I had a white NSR Porsche 908/3 body and looked for a Targa Florio livery but it looked like they have all been done by our talented members. I came across a Test Car painted red but the images I could find were mostly black and white with the odd colour photo. My scratch built chassis used a Slot It motor pod and I have to thank Ken for drilling the 4 holes through the brass stock to accept the pod.  You can't beat a Drill Press!  

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 7 months ago

      Arthur

    • 62 Bel Air, Bubble Top The bubble tops were interesting cars. I would hate to flip one in an accident. But they sure looked cool. Here are the parts. The inspiration for this build came from these photos. This is what the test looked like before the body posts were installed. The body still needs the chrome strip going the full length of the car. I'll attempt that another day when I feel brave. A full interior made of card stock is next. Thank you kindly for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 8 months ago

      Arthur

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