Most popular topics

Home /
Viewing 100 topics - 1 through 100 (of 100 total)
    • Topic
    • Voices
    • Replies
    • Last Post
    • New track in the east Basic plans have been drawn up by Art to make a 2-lane new track in my basement. Art was kind enough to take on the task of fitting a small track into a tiny basement. I don't have a name for it yet. Maybe the KRZ Twister? Name suggestions are most welcome. The final dimensions will be on a 5' foot by 10' foot base. The closest rooms to the track are the washroom and kitchen. It should work out well to host races for small groups. Everything in life is time sensitive. I should have done this a few years ago. Thank you to Art for accepting the challenge.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 12
    • 59
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Boulevard Cruisers I stumbled across a very detailed kit last year I thought was a loner. At the Group25 show last weekend, I discovered there is a series of these cars. Gunze Sangyo is the manufacturer of these stunning 1/32 kits. You rarely see this type of detail. The chrome is over the top and really sparkles. There 7-cars to choose from: A 1955 Chevy Nomad, 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy Brougham, 59 Caddy Seville, 59 Impala Sport, 59 Fairlane 500, and a 63 Thunderbird. Many are around $25 on EBay.   The 59 Impala comes with 4-options for the roof. Open back seat, rear seat cover, soft top, or hard top. The 63 Thunderbird comes with 3-options for the roof. Open back seat, tonneau cover, or full roof. Art saw these kits at the show and it inspired him enough to suggest a new class of street racers without numbers. May I suggest it be called "Boulevard Cruisers"? White walls, low riders, slow motors... I also located a 59 Eldorado Biarritz. It's supposed to arrive next week. I really hope this turns into a new class in the future as Art suggested. These cars from Gunze Sangyo are stunningly beautiful! EBay search "gunze sangyo 1/32"

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 4
    • 41
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • IROC 2024 Series Gents, Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too! Interested? The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery. Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations: Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout; Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone; Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes); Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well); On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races. Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race. Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible. The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models. If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation. Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point... This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly. The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100... Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...) Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant. The following molded colours will become available: Green (sold) Yellow (sold) Red (sold) Blue (sold) Charcoal White Orange (sold) Purple Brown/Rust Pink (sold) Baby Blue Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish. Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 7
    • 40
    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • D'Art Ferrari 312P The first time I laid eyes on Art's Ferrari 312P my brain said "I want that!". Based on using 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I started to rough out a chassis for bearings. Wasn't sure how to attach the body.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 31
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Strombecker McLaren M1B     Strombecker made some of the nicest molds, and the McLaren M1B, was one of their nicest, and very much to scale,....it is a tiny little bugger !! It really does not look all that great in stock form, sitting high, and without any details/decals. Anyway, it has been sitting in my workroom for eons, and with the forced hometime we are all enduring, I have decided to make it my next build. Trying to make this..............this one is not mine, unfortunately mine is a little worse for wear.......... Into something like this................so a few bits to be made/added. I started with the chassis, as I find these the easy part of the job..........a simple single rail chassis with .047 main rails, set for 2mm+ clearance with 19+ mm tyres. This will be powered by a  FF050 motor. I have started the bodywork........removed all bits, opened the vents, (as they should be , they were closed in the original), and added a front diaplane, and a rear spoiler. Still a lot of clean up to do...........but the rear molded in screens/vents have been opened as on the original. The car is tiny,....I think I mentioned that,.....luckily the shortest wheelbase setting on my jig was perfect !! Still miles to go, but, I will post updates...... Stay Safe Chris Walker

      Started by: Anonymous in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 30
    • 3 years ago

      Anonymous

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

    • 9
    • 28
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • 2017 International Race of Champions – The Ring – December 20, 2017 2017 IROC  Qualifying: Everyone chose to qualify on the middle lane. ArT; BiG; DwM; JMs; MiA; DaB; JmO. Race Results: 1st Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) JMs – 81 Laps; ArT – 80; BiG – 80; DwM – 79; JmO – 78; MiA – 76; DaB – 75. 2nd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 162; BiG - 162; JMs - 160; DwM - 158; JmO - 156; MiA – 153; DaB - 148. 3rd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 244; BiG - 243; JMs - 240; DwM - 238; JmO – 234; MiA – 230; DaB - 224. 4th Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 326; BiG - 324; JMs - 321; DwM – 318; JmO – 312; MiA – 307; DaB - 300. ADJUSTED FINAL RESULTS (180 sec. x 3 x 4 = 36 min.) [crash = -1 lap] ArT – 325 Laps [-1 lap]; BiG – 324;* JMs – 320 [-1 lap]; DwM – 317 [-1 lap]; JmO – 312;** MiA – 304 [-3 laps]; DaB – 293 [-6 laps]. * Fewest Crashes ** Second Fewest Crashes Christmas came early for everyone this night. Prizes were awarded as follows: BiG chose this DArt body kit: But then opted to trade in the Ferrari 312P body kit for the mystery prize hanging from the Christmas tree elsewhere: It was a lovely Fly Juncadella Chevron B21! Well done BiG! Our next place finisher JMs chose this DArt body kit: Next, DwM made his selection: Followed by JmO: Up next MiA chose his wrapped door prize - he unwrapped a Lindberg model kit and five BWMS050 motors: DaB unwrapped the second door prize: Time for the two most prestigious awards on the night - most flawless on the evening. BiG and JmO both collected top honours with no offs each - tie going to the higher finisher meant Bill chose his second DArt body kit and received an 'unobtainium' Vanski unrated motor:  JmO picked his second DArt body kit and received his unrated Vanski motor: Excellent racing by all! This will close out the Scratch32/R32 fall racing season. Our next scratch32 event will be the Targa III here at the Ring while the next R32 race will at the lovely Spa-Lyons - both in early January! Info on both is right on our website! A wonderful end to 2017... Merry Christmas to everyone and please have a very Happy New Year! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 5
    • 27
    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 27
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Draft Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v4.0 – May, 2018 Gentlemen, I've prepared and attached an update in draft format of the current Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines (v3.0) that addresses the following: Eliminates the confusing reference to 15" wheels and sets all of the basic wheel sizes in metric (millimeters); Offers a basis from which to calculate wheel diameter and width to avoid confusion and make compliance intuitive; These updates to wheel dimensions are not substantive - they do not change anything - but clarify the rules as they were; In hot rods wheel size is no longer restricted to 14mm wheels - hot rod wheels may be smaller in diameter since this does not offer any performance advantage; In hot rods the previously mandatory SC0120 DArt tire is now no longer mandatory but still highly recommended; In sportscars since we have the relatively new SP+ subclass the 'target' motor reference allowing any motor to be used especially for heavier models is no longer necessary and so the SP class is once again restricted to only 'Slow' motors listed in G7. All models using any other motor will be classed as SP+; The draft version reflects all of these changes. For convenience I've marked all of the changes as follows: deletions are crossed out; and additions are in red. Please feel free to print/review your own copy (attached below) and comment by replying to this thread or in person at our next scratch32 event. You must be logged in to review the attached draft and comment below.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 2
    • 26
    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • DArt McLaren M1B This M1B prototype got moved to the front of the build line. The plan is to standardize the M1B for DArt body/KRZ chassis quick-build kits in the near future. Chassis will be designed for slim-line motors to sit flat without the use of any spacers. A new paint-booth is under way. I decided to undo the mess I made in the basement kitchen before it became permanent. Anyone would have a hard time to figure out dozens of cars were painted there now. This prototype has CX0201 tires with 13x7 wheels on the front. The next prototype will have RM0201 tires with 13x5 wheels on the front.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 26
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 63 Thunderbird I've always wanted a 63 T-Bird convertible with the optional tonneau cover and twin head rests. This is a very nice kit for a slot car. Here's whats in the kit. It comes as a hardtop, or convertible. The chrome really sparkles. These are the parts being used. I hope to use the complete interior with the exception of the back seat. The back seat comes as a separate piece. You have to leave the back seat out if you install the tonneau cover. That leaves a lot of room for a slot car drive system while still retaining the full interior.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 24
    • 6 days ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • What kits are you buying, building, working on during isolation? I'm always looking for different and odd kits to build for the future. Here are some recent finds... Luis helped me pick this up from around the Hamilton area. Thank you Luis! The Triumph Herald is an odd looking duck. This Spitfire kit came from one of the members of Group-25. These just arrived from HobbyLink Japan. I finally got a Carrera Panamericana Beetle! What is everyone up to? What are you building or buying for future, possible builds? Post any build at all. Nothing is too strange. Cool scenery is interesting too. I may not build every kit. But it's fun poking through the boxes and deciding. :-)

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 5
    • 24
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Workbench Essentials

    • 4
    • 23
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Classic Era Challenge I (1966-1971) – February 2, 2018 @ The Ring It doesn't get any simpler than this for those of you who just want to go fast with any ready to run NSR, Slot.It or other manufacturer's model or build your own to race - any motor, any chassis, any configuration and hardly any rules - a mandatory marked tire will keep it fair but the rest is up to each of you. Want to race your NSR out of the box just with tires? Go for it. Want to tune the crap out of your NSR? Go for it. Want to build your own torsion or rattle pan chassis? Go for it. Want to race your hand wound motor? Go for it. Don't want to read too many rules? Great! Can't read? Don't worry... Like to argue over rules? Too bad - nothing to argue about here... Almost anything goes. Simple Rules & Guidelines Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. NEW Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. More Information, including a list of reserved (or available) race numbers, will be found below. Right now, all numbers, including three digit numbers, are available. Looking forward hopefully this can become a series hosted at other tracks too, perhaps on a monthly basis. For now we will start next Friday here at The Ring... :good: Please spread this link around to everyone who you believe may wish to participate regardless of with whom or where they raced in the past or present. Everyone is welcome.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 5
    • 22
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Classic Era Challenge II (1966 – 1971) – March 24, 2018 @ MVL After some time away from the Molto VeLoce Circuit located in Oakville ON Scratch32 and R32 will be returning to this prestigious exotic car location and their 4 lane custom routed slot car track by DArt. The first event tentatively scheduled for MVL will be the second round of the ‘R32 Classic Era Challenge’ on Saturday March 24, 2018 at 11am. [This was originally scheduled for March 17 but scheduling issues required a change to March 24.] Orange dot tires are mandatory – and the rules remain as before: 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked orange dot Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Our assigned racing number list so far: [table id=6 /] Everyone who wishes to participate on Saturday March 24, 2018 must log in and register below regardless of whether or not they already have their assigned racing numbers (limit of 3). Those that do not have a scratch32 account or need to acquire their orange dot tires and/or racing numbers must contact me as soon as possible by email at: [email protected] [seatt-form event_id=15]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 6
    • 22
    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • 1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32   (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34  Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires.   Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit:   Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements.   It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.)         Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix.  

      Started by: Avatar photoFelix in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 20
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 20
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa Build I was fortunate enough to get 2-unbuilt Corvair kits at the same time. The best of everything from the two went to Art. I'm building this one as a test. This one was missing the front bumper, which isn't really an issue for a Corvair race car. Art has the front bumper to make complete Corsa kits. The paint is Testors "Star Spangled Blue". The colour on lid looks great. The nonsense coming out of the can is another thing altogether. :negative: More to follow...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 20
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Austin Healey Sprite I was walking along the front lot earlier looking for sections that still needed raking, when I heard the rumble of an antique motorcycle engine coming around the corner. I turned around and found that it was a tiny bright red Austin Healey Sprite. I remembered that I probably have one of those packed away somewhere in the basement, possibly even in the right scale. I eventually took a look and found a Healey 3000, as well as a 32’nd scale Sprite. It was a nice AirFix box of the 1958-1961 Sprite MkI. (1997 re-box of 1961 tooling).  However, the contents weren’t so nice and I recalled that I had set it aside deciding that it wasn’t worth spending time on it. But seeing the real thing drive by, gave me renewed motivation. Fig. 1:   You can’t judge a book by its cover – you can’t judge a kit by its box-art ! I had built many model cars when I was a kid, but never a 1/32 scale, and this one looks like the tiniest of the tiny. (I use two large magnifying glasses while doing intricate work, but here I could make use of a microscope!)   I started work on it and found that the tooling, moulding, casting were even worse than I had initially thought. The front fender pontoons were lumpy. The three sections making up the front end of the car did not fit properly. The hood seam in front of the windshield was scored different thicknesses from one segment to the next. Door seams were irregular. Rocker panel seams were different heights and shapes between left to right side. Other body features that were supposed to be the same, were different sizes and shapes from each-other, and not symmetrically positioned on the left and right sides. The headlight lenses are nice but the dome sockets they are to fit into on top of the hood are not smooth and semi-circular but are instead elongated leaving excess at the top and a gap at the bottom. There are other inconsistencies that I won’t bother listing, plus more I’m sure to discover. (Once again, it seems that I’ve stumbled into an overly difficult model to work with.)  But I decided to stick with it anyway.  One of the problems for me in this smaller scale, has been motivation, so I decided now that I have a bit, I should make use of it.   Fig. 2:   Sprite in another of the many standard colours, ‘Mint Green’.   I assembled the front end body sections, and started the prep by sanding down those seams and all the lumps on the curved surfaces. I’ve never used body putty on a motorized car, fearing that it may crack under flex during competition, but here I couldn’t avoid it and decided to take the chance. I filled in the top hood seam and the small body-fit gaps in the front, as a start. Fig. 3:   Kit contents.   There is something else about the body that doesn’t seem quite right. I almost bought a 3000 Mk III when I was a youngster, but I don’t know much about the Sprite, so I started searching the references to learn a bit about the car. If I’m going to the trouble of building it, I want to do it right. I couldn’t find matching wheels in my collection, so I tried the body onto a ‘Carrera Go’ chassis, and even at that 1/43 scale, the chassis was too large for this tiny body ( ~10.5 cm x 4 cm; ~4” x 1 ½” ) . With the kit wheels in place, the body looked very high off the tech block. I thought the problem may be that the wheels were out of scale too large. Doing a search and some arithmetic, I found that the kit tires are properly scaled and do correspond to the vintage Sprite tires, “Cross-ply 5.20-13 tyres”, which are apparently 23.1” or 587mm overall diameter (on nominal 13” rims). The kit wheels have a Rim diam = 11mm,  Tire diam = 18mm,  giving a Track clearance = 7mm with tires touching the inside of the fenders, and that already appears far too high for the tiny sportscar. Adding a 2 mm tire/fender clearance on the model, (which would be more realistic and would be needed to allow for minimum body roll), gives 9 mm track clearance, and would convert to 288mm, or 11.3” road clearance on the real car. (That 2mm tire/fender scale clearance converts to only  2 ½ ” tire/inside fender clearance available to the real car, still far too small.)   I don’t own a sports car, but the road clearance from the bottom of the rocker panel of my mini-van is only 8 ½” ; the other cars in the garage are lower.  Since the wheels are to correct scale, the only conclusion I can draw from this analysis is that the model is out of scale too shallow. As a result, they had to cut the wheel arches too close to the top of the body. The shallow body also gives very little clearance for the tires inside the fenders thus the whole body is raised far too high off the track. All of this is even apparent from photos of the real car. (Exterior photos, as well as photos under the bonnet show that there is plenty of space, and structure, between the top of the tire and top of the fender.)   Fig’s.  4 & 5:   Body proportions of the kit and the real car. It’s very obvious from comparison of these two photos, that the model body is out of scale too shallow, streamlined. (Compare the heights of the door panels, the heights of the fenders above the cut-outs, and the space from top of tire to top of fender.) Unfortunately, it’s an effect that can’t be corrected on this model without major surgery. On the other hand, using smaller wheels helps with the body height and track clearance, but makes the wheel cut-outs on the model look even larger .  (I may have to do what I see done on my Ninco XK120 and many other sportscar models - build a step drop between the body and chassis. Even on the real car, some chassis components show below the bottom edge of the body. However, such a step will limit my chassis design and it’s dynamics.)   This thing has given me so much trouble; Looks like my initial assessment was correct and I should have just left it in the box! In any case, now it’s become a challenge! So I have been searching for correctly scaled rims and tires. I have worked out four possible chassis designs to fit this tiny body, but until I have the wheels in hand I can’t finalize the adjustments on the body or the detailed dimensions of the chassis. I’m looking for rims 13” nominal which usually work out of be 13mm diameter at the centre ridge and 11.5 mm diameter at the outside edge, depending on the manufacturer. I need 5mm wide for the front pair and 7mm for the rear. Corresponding tires would be 18mm diam before truing.  It's going to be difficult to compensate for the shallow body; I may have to do other adjustments, but I want to get the best balance possible.   I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.   Vincent Van Gogh    

      Started by: Avatar photoFelix in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 20
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • 1963 Indy Roadster I found a few links that folks might find interesting when building the car. It is not a slot car build but won first place at the 2016 IPMS Nationals in SC. Parnelli Jones's 1963 Indy 500 Winning Watson Roadster - Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles - IPMS/USA Forums (ipmsusa3.org) The second link is of a Facebook page (embedded in first link), with step by step pictures with comments when you click on the picture. I guess you need to be on FB to see.  The interesting thing I liked is it helped locating where bits go plus it identified the paint colors to use for the Watson Livery. Don't know if it is helpful to anyone but I found it helped me. My model is coming along.  I am going for a Watson Livery.  Mica Blue nose and White Pearl body, a little ambitious for me but what the heck.  I ordered decals and a paint mask to help me along.  The chassis I built 18 months ago for a STP Nova body but was never happy with the body.  It fits the Watson with minimal adjustments. The chassis wheelbase is a touch long (1/4inch) as you will notice in the picture.   So far the car is primed, interior glued in and driver fitted but not glued nor detail painted.                                 

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 20
    • 2 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Sebring 1957 Just to see how this works, so we may as well have the Wayback go way back. These images are from my dad's collection taken almost 60 years ago, so please keep them within the group. Due to the 100k suggested limit the images have become a bit grainy. Should anyone be interested contact me for larger file sizes. As time goes by I'll try to figure how to add a little info to each image.

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: Historical 1:1

    • 5
    • 19
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 8
    • 19
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Classic Era Challenge Cup V (1966-1971) Gentlemen, it is time once again for the fifth edition of our Classic Era Challenge Cup (1966 – 1971) now scheduled for Saturday, February 2, 2019 @ Molto VeLoce (MVL). The rules remain the same. Mandatory orange dot DArt club urethane tires on the rear wheels AND hard plastic body that raced in a period endurance race with any period fantasy livery ARE REQUIRED. The rest is up to you… any material… RTR or scratch… Simple Rules & Guidelines v1.0 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. So, you may qualify up to three models but must choose one to race. Remember to use your assigned numbers for those models you wish to qualify. Timed practice will start at 10:00am… followed by qualifying and then the race. Here is our current list of registered numbers which will be updated in real time: [table id=6 /]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 6
    • 18
    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 8
    • 18
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 17
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Indy Roadsters are coming! I'm sure we've all been looking forward to the debut of the Indy Roadsters. After talking to Art at Monday nights race it appears we will have a race  scheduled towards the end of this years S32 season. The rules are firming up and here is what we have so far. -Any true, front engined  roadster that was registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards to the very last roadster in 1967 is eligible. -Only the FF050 slow  motor may be used in a front motor, rear drive  configuration with the motor ahead of the cockpit. -Cars must weigh a minimum of 80 grams. -Cars may use any size wheels and tires as long as they represent a reasonably scale appearance. -Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced in are allowed For anyone having trouble locating roadster bodies e-Bay is a great resource. Geodies is a seller that usually has several eligible bodies available and he is willing to combine shipping. Here is a link to a current body on sale https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-32-Bardahl-Ferrari-Indianapolis-resin-body-kit-slotcar/193310078141?hash=item2d022db4bd:g:izcAAOSwDuleJzIi. e-Bay also often has old Eldon roadsters on sale. Rules may need a little polishing going forward but hopefully by keeping things relatively simple we can all  rise tothe challenge of building a front engine roadster . I'm looking forward to seeing what we all come up with . Lets get building!    

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 17
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Simple Spray Booth It's cold outside so those of us who have cars to build need to paint indoors. Here are some pictures of a simple portable spray booth I put together that helps to keep the air fresher in my home. It was made using a clear polypropylene tote that I got on sale from Canadian Tire. This material is fairly easy to cleanup after painting and it allows in outside light for greater visibility. It uses a box in box design that allows for perfect sealing and easier portability. It uses an equipment rack fan that I bought on Amazon for just over 20 bucks. This fan runs on house voltage, is brushless and sparkproof and moves 110 cfm of air. this type of fan allows you to use any normal hobby paint including nail polish and automotive lacquers. The filter consists of lighting grid cut to fit  and fine aquarium floss built into a dollar store food saver. The fan is bolted through both boxes and the exhaust fitting making for a leakproof seal. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. The exhaust uses 4" semi flexible metal tubing attached to a woodworking exhaust fitting at one end using a 4" hose clamp and a dryer vent quick connect at the other. This is attached to the other half of the  quick connect that I have bolted  to a wooden window insert. As the main box was originally a tote the hose clamp can be loosened and the entire exhaust be put inside ready to be moved. My wife was painting a C4 corvette for Group 25 that Ken kindly gave her so we had a chance to test out the design. It worked flawlessly. It's best to start the fan before painting and to leave it on for a few minutes after you finish to make sure no solvents escape back into your home. Please remember that you should also be using appropriate safety equipment for the type of finish you're spraying. As I tend to use lacquers that means a respirator , gloves and eye protection. The whole project went together for about $75.00 worth of materials. I hope some of you find this useful. Let's get building! Cheers Steve  

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: How To – Paint It

    • 5
    • 17
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Aston Ulster PGP+ entry Hello gang, 1935 Aston Ulster 1.5L PGP+ entry, Matchbox kit... I believe driven in the 1935 'Targa Abruzzi" by Giovanni Lurani(private entry) but after much research, no pics to corroborate(need our historian to wade in and virtually zeroid on Racingsportscars and other sites), but perhaps my sleuthing skills ain't what they used to be.... :>)  Stupid question of the day...How do I add to model db? Thanks    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 17
    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Ford Model T Hot Rod Greetings from Scarborough.  It's time to contribute to this Forum after reading it for so long.  Although I race with "the other Club", I did race a few R32 events several years ago and Hot Rods was one of the classes.   After using a borrowed car, I decided to scratch build my own.   Despite being in the Hobby since the 60's (off and on), I never a soldered a chassis together so this was going to be interesting.   I used the Lindberg 1925 Ford Model T and added a box (made from styrene) in the rear to hide the crown gear and AB Slot motor bracket. It has  RS Slot wheels with Dart inserts and Dart tires of course.   For a first attempt, I was quite pleased with it.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 16
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • 1963 Watson Special – Front Motor Indy Roadster Lots of discussion prior to the pandemic led to the beginning of an Indy Roadster class using a low power motor in an inline front motor configuration. In that spirit this is my build based on a 1:32 AMT kit for a 1963 Watson Special. This kit was the foundation for the DArt body kit which is what I am using for this build. The original kit and all of the parts, including decals: The DArt body kit which will be used: First things first - sorting out the wheels and tires. I opted to use RS Slot 15x7mm (14x7mm) insert wheels with DArt D7.5 tires mounted front and back. I trued down the fronts a little smaller. The rears were trued to a diameter of 25mm and the fronts to 23.3mm... I used the setup blocks as pictured when setting up my jig. Now time to start on the chassis using assorted piano wire and brass pieces...  This is my version of a two piece rotating torsion chassis. The motor is an extension of the rear end of the chassis even though it sits above the front section. A separate piece of piano wire wrapped around the guide tube will hold the two halves together after I solder the tips in place just ahead of the rear end. Now that the basic chassis is complete - you can see it has stubs for the front wheels - we can begin assembly, starting with the motor and driveshaft. Lots of trial fitting went into positioning the braces that will hold the motor shaft extension bushing. I only want to barely touch that bushing with my soldering iron to fix it in place after the motor is installed for the final time - then carefully clean away any acid flux and oil liberally. Time to trial fit the shell. I chose not to offset the body (or chassis) since we'll be running these on road courses. I'm happy with the overall stance of this chassis and body so time to trial fit the interior to provide clearance for the drive shaft/pinion. I hope to conceal the driveshaft under the pilot's left leg but I may need to improvise... we'll see... stay tuned!    

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 16
    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • The new Hot Rod Garage I finally tore apart the workbench and moved it out of the track room. An opportunity to clean up and re-organize. The bench as it used to be. Lots of holes were left in the walls. Oops. Me fix! The bench was moved into the basement kitchen. The drill press is now on the other side of the kitchen, and away from the slot car assembly area. A plywood back was added to the bench. Look wife... no more holes in the walls! (Except for the tire-rack on the right side) I can finally start building cars again. And finish the track room!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

    • 9
    • 16
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Morris Mini Cooper I found a Morris Mini Cooper in the 1972 Targa Florio. I also found an appropriate car to get this project off to a good start. As you can see by the photo on the right, the car is "Plum Crazy Purple" in colour. That should be a cool addition to the other liveries. The drivers for car #51 were Matteo Sgarlata and Joe Anastasi. Class = S1.6. Sponsored by = STP. I need to open the wheel openings in the fenders to fit the 13"-inch wheels/tires. That will give me an opportunity to make those crazy looking fenders. The motor is a tight fit with the stock interior. I will need to get very creative with this little car if I want to lower it with bigger wheels, and still keep an interior with a driver. Fun looking car. It was a nice surprise to find out it has working head lights and tail lights. Since this build is not about speed. I'm going to try and keep them. Look out green Giliberti cause a purple Mini will be on the hunt! All in good fun of course.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 15
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 15
    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • 32 Ford Hot Rods without fenders is unexplored territory for me. No one in the group has a 1932 Ford. The kit has many parts. Only a few will end up being used. This is just the body and front grill from the kit. I can't hide the front part of the chassis. I might as well figure out a way to make it part of the Hod Rod.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 15
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 4
    • 14
    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Peterbilt 352 Cabover – Revell Kit 1964 From the Revell Instructions: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is in a class by itself with custom styling, functional design and uncommon rugged beauty. The impressive Peterbilt 352 tractor is a trucker's dream. This cabover engine design reflects Peterbilt's thoroughness in the manner that they engineer and build heavy duty trucks. Every Peterbilt that rolls off the assembly line is custom built to suit the needs of each customer. And on the Box: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is a 10-wheeler with 110' cab and has comfort and elegance built into the driver's compartment and sleeper. The high standard of manufacturing excellence sets it apart from all other trucks. Length: 8 1/4" # of Parts: 59 Molded In: Light Blue Decals: Peel 'N Stick So, after nearly 10 years this project has returned to be the focus of my workbench... A square/rectangular brass frame was constructed to accommodate this body and the 10 wheels that it rolls on - using a high torque king can motor in an inline configuration with 8x29 gearing. The motor powers the first set of dual wheels - the second set tag along and can be removed with a pin for tighter tracks/corners. The cab is so large that in order to fit everything under the gantry/overpasses I will either need to lower it and open up the wheel wells or chop it shorter in some places - the jury is still out on which option to pursue... but for now here are a few spy shots from The Ring: BTW, this is no slouch - in its current configuration it will complete a lap in the 8 second range... but its real purpose will be to transport race models and/or pull a track conditioning/cleaning trailer... stay tuned!!! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 14
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • ZL1 Corvette Stingray The second Anatoly Arutunoff Corvette is well under way. Like the first. This car is built in honour of the man, and his efforts to enter the Targa Florio in 1971. The first Vette has a Scalex motor in line with the 327 that should have entered the race in 1970. This one is more in line with Anatoly's 1971 - 427 Vette in that it has a Fox-10 for open class racing. I hope it will be completed by this week. I learn something with each build. I left nothing on the table with respect to how close the body sits on the chassis on this one. Any lower and the tires touch the inside of the fenders. Perfect!  :good: I tried to make this a sidewinder but the motor hits the bearing flange before the gears mesh properly. You can see where I shaved the aluminum past the bearing flange. I even tried to angle it, but there is not enough room to work with in this size aluminum tubing. By the time the gears mesh, the motor is well into the tire area. Back to inline we go. *mumble*  :scratch: Ken    

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 14
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1951 Indy Kurtis Offy Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one.  Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process on one using my oodles of free time.  The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat.  The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches.  A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight.  The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide.  Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis. For the rear maybe the same with the chassis linked in to the brass tubing but need to think that through.  Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 14
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Cadillac, Cadillac, Cadillac Eldorado Well I started work on the '57 Caddy Brougham. Ken's comparison pic with his Nascar reminded me that I had a little used scratch chassis under my Petty Plymouth so I thought I could probably re-purpose the chassis to fit under the Caddy. Wheelbase needs a bit of a stretch but fortunately I can add an additional axle tube in front of the existing tube so I can convert the chassis back and forth if needed. Cheers! Bill

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 14
    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • New User Accounts & Editing New Forum Topics and Replies… Gents, In response to several inquiries about why some topics or replies aren't posted or temporarily disappear without explanation I thought it best and most efficient to provide some background information about new member accounts and how new forum topics or replies can be edited. All new forum members must have their first new topic AND their first new reply approved by a super moderator prior to either being posted. After a new member has had their first reply approved all of their subsequent replies will be automatically posted.  After a new member has had their first topic approved all of their subsequent topics will be automatically posted. So even if your first topic was approved and you may post new topics automatically, your first reply to any topic will still need approval... They are treated independently. ALL members may edit their own topics and replies within 30 minutes of posting that topic or reply. Edits thereafter may only be made by the super moderator and only then in exceptional circumstances. If a new member's first topic or first reply is approved and then posted but they choose to edit that previously approved first topic or first reply within 30 minutes of it being posted then it again must be approved since it is treated as a new (and first) topic or reply. This will mean that it will disappear pending approval and any replies regardless of who they are from will receive error messages. The role of the moderator is to perform general forum housekeeping, to keep topics and replies on point and to ensure that offensive or inappropriate topics are dealt with accordingly. Moderators are not proof readers. Over the last several weeks up to and including yesterday experiments with some of the settings in our forums area may have at certain times provided or taken away opportunities to edit new topics and replies so please don't dwell on your own personal experience over that period. The settings mentioned above are now in place and should remain so for the long haul. I hope this helps...

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

    • 3
    • 14
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body.   The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts.

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 13
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Jag XK120 Carrera Panamericana This build was inspired by DB's white XK120. He also gave me the body. Thanks Dave! I was looking to build another Carrera Panamericana car. I found a gentleman by the name of Frank Hern that drove an XK120 in the 1952 race. He did not finish due to an accident. It's my least favorite colour. But "British Racing Green" is extemely accurate for the times of the Carrera Panamericana. :wacko: I love the spats! D'Art blue dot tires on old CB wheels. Use what you got!  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 13
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • 1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building.  Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960).  Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy.  A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor.  I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it.  The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view...  The lighting is poor in this photo.  Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann   My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week.  Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 13
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD.  Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

    • 6
    • 13
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Riverhampton Photo Collage July 14 2022 See attached the race report and photo collage of the race held on Thursday July 14 2022 Classes: ● Vintage Mini’s ● Classic Stock Car ● Nascar ● Classic Le Mans ● Modern GT Format: ● 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. ● Voltage set @ 10.5v ● Three marshals for every heat. ● Race to line result will determine finishing order.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

    • 5
    • 13
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Spray Booth Number Three My first spray booth was the basement kitchen fan with a big cardboard box. Overspray wasn't an issue since the basement was eventually going to be renovated. I painted about 60+ cars before having to make changes. After the renovations, I moved the spray area closer to the kitchen window. But the fan was actually higher in the room than the kitchen fan, and was less effective even with a much bigger fan. It moved the smelly air out of the room. But the overspray dust was like a cloud slowly moving to the floor. Let's just agree that it was a total failure. I painted one or two HO cars, and decided to undo everything. It was either outside, or nothing now. I needed to use gravity to my advantage. So far it's been working against me. I bought a wardrobe box from U-Haul for $19.95. It measures 24"x24"x48" inches closed. 60" inches tall with the top flaps open. It barely fits in the shower stall. I installed two 6" inch vents at the back to evacuate the fumes. A plywood plate was cut to perfectly fit into the window slot. Two 6" inch metal joiners were glued into the plywood plate for the flexible hose. The shower has a plastic drop-sheet lining the entire thing. You can't be too safe. I have hanging lights on both sides so I can see properly. Blocks were glued to keep the flaps open. The evacuation vents had to be staggered because they didn't quite fit beside each other. When the booth isn't being used. The plate and flexible ductwork are at rest beside the sink. It was finished last night. Ted came over with an unpainted Pioneer Mustang today, and the booth is an absolute success. The overspray cloud falls to the bottom of the box. Nothing escapes into the washroom itself except barely a light smell. You can't smell the fumes outside the washroom door with the door wide open. Perfect. The power for the booth comes from an old 24" inch fan. It moves enough air to easily dilute the fumes. I need to watch that I don't leave it running too long after painting. It removes a lot of warmth from the house very quickly. Thank you very kindly for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 5
    • 13
    • 4 hours ago

      Arthur

    • Soldering Essentials for Chassis Building – What You Need 40/60W Soldering Iron Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons - Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip. Tinning Compound New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned. Solder A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis. Flux and Pre-Cleaning You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years. Post Cleaning Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush. Soldering Surfaces & Jigs You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters. Pliers/Cutters A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool. Rotary Tool A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube. Drill with Assortment of Bits Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering. Sandpaper You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces. Files Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks. Optional Tools A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes. Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.

      Started by: Arthur in: Workbench Essentials

    • 6
    • 12
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 12
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Corvair progress, slowly…. Getting there,  I know, I know, do posts 1st, aesthetics last....well, perhaps a slow learner.....I had an opportunity for a few (rare) hours, so decided I would graphic my Corvair kit. All all old homemade decals(work well on white/silver bodies)Awaiting the chassis setup/motor/gears/wheels etc(KRZ chassis, thanks KRZ!)   Made a little 'scoop too'      

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 12
    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Can Am thunder poll Newbie question: Is a slim-line FF style motor the same as the slow motor we use in 50's GP? I have a Monogram 1965 Chaparral 2C that I would like to use in the pre 66 early series with the slim style motor. Can I use it if slow motors are voted in? If It's not the same, what is the RPM of the slim-line FF style motor? Thanks

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 5
    • 11
    • 8 years ago

      Anonymous

    • Building in Upper and lower A arms and rear and front springs etc I jave been loo,ing at some scratch build cars in F1 classes ans see the detail  in rhe front and rear suspension systems. A Arms, springs or shocks, and the rear rods.or arms. I think,they reallly five a foos looking dinosh to,tje cqrs amd was wondering if there aere any turoeials qroumd on how to do these things . All in the name of scale accuracy and good lookimg detail. Bob :wacko:

      Started by: Anonymous in: How To – Build It

    • 4
    • 11
    • 6 years ago

      Anonymous

    • Classic Era Challenge III (1966 – 1971) – August 10, 2018 @ The Ring After some head scratching, a few postponements and a venue change it is finally time to get the ball rolling for Round III. Due to the season a smaller turnout is expected which means that those who do attend will get much more racing in... so in the famous words of Whitesnake - 'Here we go again':Over the next few days I'll post the # list we have so far along with event details. The rules are pretty simple - any model with a hard body/shell that competed in an endurance race during this period whether RTR, 'unobtainium', made by NASA or pulled from thin air with DArt 'Orange Dot' club urethane tires. Should anyone need orange dot tires please let me know. If you do not yet have your racing #s or if you have any other questions this is the topic to reply to.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 5
    • 11
    • 1 month ago

      Anonymous

    • Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Slot Car Resources

    • 5
    • 11
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Classic Era Challenge IV (1966-1971) – October 27, 2018 Gentlemen, it is time once again for the fourth edition of our Classic Era Challenge Cup (1966 - 1971) this Saturday, October 27, 2018 @ Molto VeLoce (MVL). The rules remain the same. Mandatory orange dot DArt club urethane tires on the rear wheels AND hard plastic body that raced in a period endurance race with any period fantasy livery ARE REQUIRED. The rest is up to you... any material... RTR or scratch... Simple Rules & Guidelines v1.0 – January, 2018 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. So, you may qualify up to three models but must choose one to race. Remember to use your assigned numbers for those models you wish to qualify. Timed practice will start at 10:00am... followed by qualifying and then the race. Here is our list of registered numbers: [table id=6 /] To register: [seatt-form event_id=31] If you have any questions please ask within this thread... Good Luck! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 3
    • 11
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Group-25 Model Car Builders meeting invitation Group-25 has extented an invitation to the S32/R32 slot car club to join them for an afternoon of model and slot car building show & tell. We can share our skills with each other about building, painting, detailing, etc... These are the guys hosting the Slot Car and Model show in March. Please bring some of your cool stuff to show. There will be a track or two set up for some beater cars that can afford to break. Don't expect to run your nice cars there. The track is merely for newbie entertainment and to get people interested in slot cars. That's our goal too. Just as an example. DB can show off his green Ford Tudor he just brought to the Carrera Panamericana. The wiper blade marks on the windshield and general weathering are cool and inspirational. We can learn from these guys too. Some of the Group-25 members are master-builders. Check out some of the pics on their site from previous meetings. https://www.group25.org/meetings.htm The date - Feb 9th.  The time - 3pm until 7pm.  Location - Armour Heights Community Center on the southwest corner of Avenue road and Wilson avenue. Take Avenue Road exit and head south of the 401 to the first light. Here is a photo of the cool stuff various members gave to me for free to make into slot cars. Nice bunch of people. The file and brush are Christmas gifts from Cindy and Marty at Toys4Everyone. Everyone in the club got them. I hope a few can join us for a day of fun. Thank you. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

    • 3
    • 11
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1963 Rover BRM (1969 Aurora dual purpose kit) I met a guy at the Torcan model show. He said he had a rare 1/32 dual purpose kit that came with parts to be static, or a slot car. He said it was a Rover BRM. I never heard of it, but I like my BRM 578. So my interested was peaked. The real car has a turbine engine! Nuts! The kit is at least 50-years old. Aurora Plastics was sold in 1969. Then again in 1971. The company was parted out in 1977. This is what came in the box. Besides missing the instructions, it's also missing one headlight from what I can tell. The chome roll bar, inserts, steering wheel, and tail light bezels all sparkle nicely. Some kits are so far from the real car that they are an insult to the manufacturer. This model may actually look a bit more sleek compared to the real car. I'm not complaining about this one in the least. It looks cool to me.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 4
    • 11
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 11
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: Anonymous in: Drivers of the Past

    • 11
    • 11
    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Willys Gasser Style Coupe More than a year has gone by since the initial post #17570... and in my spare time, I built a gasser. I was inspired by some of the photos I found on the web.  There are many. The body of my Gasser is a stock Carrera Willys coupe model with an aluminum chassis under it.                              The front sits high and can easily be modified by adjusting the length of the body posts. This will be done once the rules are                              determined.  At the moment this model can be raced in the hot rod class.                             The chassis is powered by a 14k ff motor.  The complete model tips the scale at 82 grams, making it a slow hot rod due to its weight disadvantage.  Depending on the final ride height, it will require weight to lower its COG which will likely put this model over 90 grams when complete.  I have a wider set of rear wheels for this model but I built it to meet our current HR rules until the Gasser rules are set.                            A the moment F1nutz and I will be racing only with each other... lets get building gents!

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 11
    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • DArt Watson Indy It's been a while since I started something for myself. Time to dust off the machinery. I found this cool photo of a Watson Indy in metallic orange. That was the inspiration to start this car. I just painted this today. Super nice day outside. The build begins.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 11
    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • Rio Grand Prix (Gavea) 1934 – 1937 In the 1930's the Grande Prêmio da Cidade de Rio de Janeiro were held on the infamous 11.16km long Gavea track known locally as Trampolin do Diablo ("The devil's spring board"). This course followed the coast on the edge of a cliff and returned to Gavea up in the mountains where it featured a series of hairpins in hazardous terrain... a wonderful historic course! And the vehicles that raced there ranged from lowly Ford V8's to Alfa's, Ferrari's, Bugatti's and yes - even an Autounion! Click on the attached .pdf below to review this article - it features interesting facts with numerous pictures about an obscure Grand Prix course and the pilots and their cars that navigated it... Enjoy! :yahoo:

      Started by: Arthur in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Open Trans Am car suggestions I'm chuckling as I look through the list of cars that ran in the under 2-liter Trans Am class. Ford/Lotus Cortina, Ford Pinto, Chevy Vega, Ford Escort Mk1, Mini Cooper... just to mention but a few. I doubt anyone envied a driver that raced a Pinto. B-) I'm just curious if open TA means any car that can be proven to have raced in Trans Am between 1966 and 1973? As in cars from the list above. Porsche 911's included. Any motor in any proven Trans Am car? Scary thought. The reason I ask... I have a 1969 Porsche 911 and a 1971 Ford Escort Mk1. I can put 40k motors in both cars? :wacko: Cheers, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 3
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red  and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 10
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

  •  

Viewing 100 topics - 1 through 100 (of 100 total)