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    • 1:28 Decals For Mini Z decals I've found: MZ Decals from Japan - if you can find them - excellent quality - check Japanese online retailers - I ordered and received a set for the green and white 'efini' Mazda 787B from Studio27; Print Lab Decals - on demand - not sure about the quality since I haven't ordered any yet - but a little pricey - available from SpotModel - they have a good selection of GT3 sets and one Sauber Mercedes C9 set with both the YSL & Michelin liveries; Pattos Place - all of his water slide and vinyl decals are available in 1:28 (for the 1:24 price) - and are well priced around $14AU - email your order and ask for them in 1:28 - pay via paypal - he now has improved waterslide silk ink or laser sharp versions in addition to his vinyl - I just ordered all 3 sets in the laser sharp waterslide for the 1998 & 1999 Toyota GT One so I'll find out how good they really are after they arrive and report back here. If you find any 1:28 decals anywhere else please let us know and provide links too. Hope this helps your Mini Z journey... Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Mini-Z Platform

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    • 6 days ago

      Arthur

    • Toschi Ferrari 500 F2 Replica From regisbaron4446 shared on Instagram: [Roughly Translated] Aligned the axles which was tricky. I will make the aluminium wheels with wire spokes and knockoffs next.   Despite my research, I still do not know who made in France this aluminum copy of the famous promotional toy made for the ltalian distillery Toschi. In 1954, the great drivers, Juan-Manuel Fangio, Nino Farina, Aberto Ascari, Piero Taruffi and Maurice Trintignant received a copy filled with these 3 bottles of liqueur.

      Started by: Arthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • Forums Gents, Local engagement in the forum spaces is very low. I might try to incorporate some areas into posts or pages as I refocus but if there is anything of particular value to you in a forum please save it for yourself. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • 1986 Benetton B186 My favourite F1 livery... The BMW Benetton B186 from the 1986 Hungarian GP piloted by Austrian Gerhard Berger. Rumoured to have had the highest HP engine in F1 history and if memory serves I believe set the fastest top speed ever recorded by an F1 car.

      Started by: Arthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • ‘Mini’ Bugatti Type 35 [Translated] From Instagram: In 1927, Ettore Bugatti made for his youngest son Roland, a mini Type 35, which was very successful. A small series of less than 500 copies will eventually be produced, all numbered and reserved in priority for the brand's loyal customer. (Young Prince - the future king of Morocco, Hassan I, is offered a Bugatti Baby, accompanied by his father, on the occasion of their visit to the Molsheim factories. The future king of Belgium, Baudouin, child, was also offered a copy) They are powered by a Paris Rhône electric motor powered by a 12-volt battery and linked by a crown sprocket to the rear axle. The aluminum sheet metal is mounted on a chassis, top speed of 18km/h. The front hood is held up by two leather straps, and the steering wheel is marked inside one of the "Baby 34" branches. The vehicle has a front blade suspension on a rigid axle. The rear has a fixed rigid axle. Front pivots and rear axle are now greasers. Direction, visually, is transmitted by kneepads and bars. The dashboard is equipped with a load control amp and a contactor/inverter (reversing/stop/forward step). Acceleration is ensured by a pedal that acts on a rheostat at 6 positions. The workout is done on the right rear wheel (creating a sort of differential), via a multiplier. And drum brake, on all 4 wheels, is cable controlled using a hand lever located on the right side, outside of the vehicle.  

      Started by: Arthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • RWD MM DIY Damper Plate The RWD MM (Mid Motor Mount) doesn't come with a damper plate as does the LM (Low Motor Mount). Who knows why not but the missing plate impacts handling quite noticably. If you swap out the MM for a LM mount you can use the stock LM damper as F1nutz has in his post. If you still wish to use the MM mount (or have no choice but to) then you can either add an aftermarket damper plate or make your own. [video width="1920" height="1080" mp4="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/MR-03-RWD-MM-Damper.mp4"][/video] It's easy to make your own using one of my favourite materials that are free: old credit/bank cards. After cutting out the three pieces (top and bottom circle plates and the middle doughnut plate) file down the shock screw mount which is attached to the top of the motor mount in order to lower it a few millis. Use a few 3mm DArt urethane washers to add some pressure to the centre plate (in lieu of springs) and tighten the screw till everything is snug. The tighter the screw the stiffer the movement.

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Large Scale Model Kits 4 Mini-Z To help assist anyone interested in mating a 1:24/25 larger scale model kit body to a Mini-Z chassis I created a table which lists the wheelbase and front/rear tracks of various model kits to determine which might be easier to do. If you are in a position to contribute data for inclusion in this table simply reply below with the relevant particulars. Cheers! [table id=7 /]

      Started by: Arthur in: Mini-Z Platform

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Mini-Z Light Kit Socket Mapping and Connector For anyone interested in making their own Mini-Z light kit here is a pin map for the onboard ZH 1.5mm 4 pin light socket: Remember that the headlight circuit is controlled by a trim knob on the KT531P transmitter which can adjust the headlight LEDs from a slow flashing to constant on while the brake circuit is controlled by the throttle trigger which makes the red tail lights become brighter when the brakes are applied. You can find the connector on Amazon which comes with pre-crimped wires: 3mm 3v LEDs seem to be the best bet for most head/tail lamp openings. You can use them without adding resisters. Since they don't draw much power you can add as many as you want. Experimenting with other power sources (from the gyro socket or any other onboard tabs) may give interesting LED options even if those additional circuits would need to include a resister.

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Chassis mapping The more cars you make. The easier it gets to map out a body. Don't worry too much about sticking to the car list. I can map out a body fairly quickly. Show me some bodies that aren't normally slot cars. Those tend to be more interesting. Porsche911's 1961 Ford Ranchero is pretty cool. Not many of those around. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Chassis Catalogue

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • How to Reset Your Mini-Z Steering Servo I was having a steering issue where the trim had to be set all the way to one end to centre the steering but found the following fix on line: With the transmitter turned off, center the wheels by hand as straight as you can. Then turn on the chassis, press and hold the bind button on the car until the light blinks quickly. Then you can turn your chassis back off. Once all that's done, turn your transmitter on, set steering trim to 0 (center) and turn your chassis back on. Repeat if necessary!

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Rally Class (RC) Rally Class (RC) v1.0 Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3: RC – Rally (Open Class)  Eligible Models: Any manufacturer’s Rally Car body (as raced with Fog Lights and Co Driver)  Chassis - Plastic Chassis (May be Stiffened), Glass appropriate to model  Motor and Configuration – Any up to 22K

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Arthur

    • Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v1.0 Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3: HR - Hot Rod Class (Unlimited Class)  Any manufacturer with or without fenders – Model Years 1901 thru 1959;  Motor - BWMS050 in an inline configuration  Maximum tire width – 6mm  Maximum overall width of front and rear rolling assemblies is 51mm. Bodies/fenders may be wider;

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Arthur

    • T32 Report – February 8, 2024 [foogallery id="42845"] Gents See the race results tally for the Boulevard Cruiser and Revoslot Jr series. Points are awarded to the top 6 in descending order (6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1) and 1 point is awarded to the fastest lap without breaking out. Boulevard Cruiser Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 2 DNA 4 5 6 3 6 0 29 4th Art DNA DNA DNA 0 DNA DNA 0 2.5 1 3.5 8th Brian 2 DNA 3 0 0 1 1 0 0 7 7th Gary 5 4 DNA 1 2 DNA 2 3 5 22 6th Jim DNQ 7 6 6 7 3 7 1 6 43 1st Ken 7 1 6 3 3 2 5 5.5 4 36.5 2nd Marcello 4 5 4 3 1 4 0 0 2 23 5th Robert 1 3 DNA 5 4 6 4 4 4 31 3rd Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 0 0 9th Podium - Jim 66 laps; Gary 64 laps; Cupcake 64 laps Kudos to Ken with the fast lap of 8.102 in blue lane Revoslot Jr. Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 3 DNA 0 3 4 0 1 0 14 7th Art DNA DNA DNA 2 DNA DNA 5 2 6 15 5th Brian 2 DNA 3 1 2 1 3 0 3 15 6th Gary 5 5 DNA 4 4 DNA 4 5 2 29 3rd Jim DNQ 6 7 6 7 7 6 7 6 52 1st Ken 7 1 4 0 1 2 1 0 4 20 5th Marcello 4 6 5 4 5 6 4 3 0 37 2nd Robert 1 2 DNA 5 0 3 2 4 0 17 4th Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 1 1 9th Podium Jim 68 laps; Art 68 laps; Ken 68 laps Kudos to Art with the fast lap of 7.602 in yellow lane Kudos to Van for earning his first point in the Boulevard Cruiser class placing 6th with 66 laps! Vintage Mini results - night race 1) Jim with 57 laps; 2) Gary with 57 laps; Marcello with 55 laps.  Ken with the fast lap 9.407 and many faster laps with breakouts but his car was DQ due to no lights. Slot it DTM Results 1) Jim 73 laps; Gary 57 laps; Marcello 55 laps LeMans 22k 1) Jim 79 laps; Gary 72 laps; Art 70 laps The host enjoyed home track advantage to the max on this night. Thanks to all participants who made this another fun evening of racing! Stay tuned for Cupcakes invite with announcement of classes for our next race on Thursday Feb 22, 2024. Keep the pedal to the metal boys!

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) (Open Class) v1.0 Courtesy JMSracer: Rules for CLM22 - Classic LeMans 22k (Open Class) Eligible Models; Any manufacturers Sidewinder prototype cars which competed at LeMans between 1965†through 1970.  Brands Include but are not limited to Slot it, NSR, Thunderslot, Fly, SRC, Scalextric, Monogram, Policar, Spirit… Stock Body, Interior, Plastic Chassis-May be Stiffened. Glass appropriate to model Motor must be an S-Can 22,000 rpm or lower; Slot it orange, NSR 22k, MR Slotcar, Thunderslot, or Piranha 21.5k…… This class was originally created to allow racing of the stock Slot it GT 40's with orange motors and expanded to include all the rival models that raced at LeMans.

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA) Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA) v1.0 Courtesy JMSracer: Rules for Revoslot TransAm Jr series; which includes the Alfa Romeo GTA's; Ford Escort MK1; BMW 2002's; and the Opel Kadet GT/E ONLY! This is a stock class and all that can be done is blueprinting, changing the guide with the deep wood guide that comes with the cars as a spare guide and installing Dart of KK urethane tires. Click on the link below to see a video on how to blueprint the Revoslot cars. Many have used the Dart rubber washers to install between the chassis instead of the Gorilla tape as recommended in the video, your choice.  Be careful not to true your front tires too much, they may not touch the track.  Some have bent the front part of their chassis to make the front touch the track in cases where the front was not touching. Revoslot Advance Tuning

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Courtesy of JMSracer: Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged).   Motor: BWNC1 only (only BWA S-can)   Chassis: Any in any configuration, with any gearing   Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Vintage Mini (VM) Vintage Mini (VM) (Modified Class) v1.0 Courtesy of JMSracer: Eligible Models: Scalextric 1959 and 1960's Vintage Mini's.  Inline with 14k slimline motor (Morris Mini's, Mini Cooper's);   Stock - Body, Interior, Chassis, Glass, Lights with modified slow slim BWA Motor .   Minimum overall weight – 70gm   Gear ratio 9 or 10 T pinion / 21 stock crown gear not to be tampered with   Wheel track must be kept within the model's body width, the wheels must not be visible when viewing the car from above.  Typically 43.5mm wide at rear and 44.5mm wide at front.   Permitted modification - can switch stock front stub axles with solid axle which will require a modification to guide with B-nova.  Also upgrade stock plastic wheels with aluminium replacements.   Basically, you should remove the stock stub axles in the front and install a solid axle which allows independent front wheel rotation, this will require you to cut the stock guide holder down to about 1mm thickness and install a B-Nova/ CG Slot guide adaptor to give the reduced guide holder some additional strength/support.  Install as much weight as you want, there is a minimum weight of 70 grams.  Remove the tiny 21T stock crown from the stock axle and install it onto a better replacement axle and replace all plastic wheels with aluminium wheels.  You must keep the 21T stock crown but can replace the stock 9T plastic pinion with a 10T brass/steel pinion.

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Reinforcing the Front End – Mazda 787B The Kyosho Mini-Z hardbodies are quite brittle and impacts to the weak front quarters will likely crack the body just below the inner side of the headlamp casing. This happened to my 787B in what seemed to be a relatively minor tap of an inner border knuckle. Repaired left front quarter (see crack next to the tow hook) between the headlamp casing and the splitter - unpainted.The design of the narrow front body mounting bracket inside the nose of the model should handle head on impacts well enough - but exposes the front quarters. [caption id="attachment_42440" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Repaired left front quarter (after installing LED light kit). Notice the missing orange paint where the Plast-I-Weld was applied by brush to the underside. The paint on the surface remained fine.[/caption] The MR-03RWD chassis has provision to mount an added front bumper which could extend underneath the front splitter of the body but that's a separate topic - reinforcing the chassis - and for another day. Let me be clear with what I'm doing here - I'm no expert and not advising anyone to do this nor am I claiming that this is a good thing to do - it is simply an experiment that I'm sharing and the verdict will take time but I'm curious and willing to try. I'm relying on my own slot car experiences to see how much I can transfer to this branch of the hobby. That's all - and any comments, suggestions and improvements by reply are most welcome... So... To reinforce the front quarters I used a paper template and cut 1.6mm thick styrene sheet (as best I could) into two pieces designed to fit flush underneath the left and right headlamp casings. I then used Flex-I-File Plast-I-Weld applied liberally to bond the styrene to the bottom of the headlamp casings and along the edges butting the mounting box, the front and the sides. Be careful not to flood the headlamp casings or your clear lens covers will get damaged and the paint may bleed. Better yet, remove the lenses but don't gum up the tab openings with any adhesive. Flex-I-File's Plast-I-Weld Liquid Weld Satisfied with the strength of the weld so far I applied a thick filet of 5 minute two part epoxy to reinforce the quarters and fill the space above the mounting box. Haven't yet but I could paint the reinforced areas with flat black acrylic to make them a little prettier. Notice how the front white body mount (in white plastic) fits just inside the box and basically floats - and all of the momentum from any frontal impact of the body transfers to the white body mount (and chassis) through the two very small slightly wider 'tabs' extending just the width of that box. In any event, the extra styrene and epoxy added just 4.4g to the body - a small tradeoff for the piece of mind I now have. Weight of the Mazda 787B body (with light kit installed) before and after reinforcing the front end. [caption id="attachment_42435" align="alignleft" width="384"] Weight of the Mazda 787B Body with Light Kit[/caption] [caption id="attachment_42562" align="alignright" width="270"] Weight of the Mazda 787B body with light kit after reinforcing the front quarters.[/caption] My goal was to spread any minor impacts at the quarters to the whole front end of the body which I hope this does. Time will tell. Up next - an invisible (or discreet) front chassis bumper...

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that competed in a state or club sanctioned road, rally, endurance race or a grand prix between the years 1900 through to 1939 anywhere in the world; Low Power BWMS050 Motor Only; Any Inline Chassis; Wheels: Must not exceed 16.5 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in width; Tires: DArt urethane club series (DA0210 recommended). Tires must not exceed 23 mm in diameter; and Maximum Width: 51mm (actually 50.8 mm – excluding fenders or insert detail which may extend beyond).

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • Recent Slot Car Flea Market This is the fourth year that Michael and I made the trek out to Dungannon for the flea market. It's always a beautiful drive out to the country this time of year. We always have a lot of fun. Here are a few pics from the show. Lots of HO scale vendors there. But there's always a few 1/32 temptations. I only bought one 1/32 car. Something I've been looking for, for a long time. The yellow Boss 302 Mustang in street trim. And a few old HO cars. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Bearings and axles Greetings from Bancroft gentlemen. I usually take something with me when I go to the cottage. The Watson Indy needed to be assembled. Every once in a while I run into an oversized axle that doesn’t fit the bearings. I’m glad I brought other things to do. Too bad I only brought two axles for the build. Make sure to bring a bearing with you to Ernie’s to test any axles you want to buy. Ernie doesn’t make the axles himself and will happily exchange any axle that doesn’t fit.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Revoslot Sr/Jr & Boulevard Cruisers For those racing at Riverdale and Cupcake: This is just a reminder that the Revoslot Jr and the Sr class are both "STOCK" classes.  This means you cannot change the gearing, all you are allowed to do is to blueprint the cars and install urethane tires.  If you ever strip a gear which is almost impossible to do unless you are doing something wrong.... you must replace it with the stock gear that came with the cars.  Going forward, before you make any modifications to your cars, please read the rules first. In the Revoslot Jr class; all but the BMW 2002 are geared 9/24; the BMW is 9/23 and I believe one of them is 9/27. Big Boat vs Boulevard Cruiser. A follow up reminder, the Boulevard Cruiser is an open class except for motor which is limited to only the 14k BWA S-Can.  There is no weight limit and you can have any chassis, any gearing, urethane rear tires.  Any body 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended; Vs. Big Boat Although this class allows literally all the same models as the Boulevard Cruiser... This class has a minimum weight, body length. open gearing, open chassis and allows a 15k JACK RABBIT MOTOR. The way to remember it is Boulevard Crusiser is only BWA motor, Big Boat is Jack Rabbit motor...

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 7 months ago

      Arthur

    • S24 Aug, 19/23 I was able to take a few pics before everyone left for the day. The field is growing. Chris and Drew's cars should both be ready for the next S24 event.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Cupcake Raceway Big Boat Class (2023) Cupcake Raceway II Big Boat Class (as per email of today) Any model body plastic, or 3 D printed from 1955 to 1967 No numbers max width 63 mm min length155mm plastic brass or aluminium chassis driver and interior open gearing Any motor configuration 80 gram min weight Jack Rabbit motor 14 K preferred, BWA OR vanski if you want ( Ernie is stocking Jack rabbits for us for 12.50 each) Hard top or convertible. KK tires or Darts only....

      Started by: Arthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 9 months ago

      Arthur

    • Gear ratio for a Fox-10 Art was kind enough to provide a few 38T spurs to start the ball rolling. A 13t pinion was chosen for the first test for a 2.92 ratio. The rear tires were trued to 27mm in diameter. Turns out this was perfect for the Nova Ridge track. Jim and I went head to head beside each other for many laps. We were laughing all the way. I've always wanted to tinker with 1/25, but didn't think we could. I've had about thirty 1/25 kits hanging around from before I got into slot cars.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 10 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • R32 Classes for 2023 Gents, I know many of you have been overwhelmed with new classes in every group that races in southern Ontario. R32 is no exception but rest assured that our R32 classes are now fixed for the balance of 2023. Recently we've added several classes as a fifth experimental race. We've also included them in our Class Criteria subforum for reference going forward. At this point R32 has 23 classes in total. You'll find them all within our Class Criteria subforum. Some of the 'new' R32 classes are not new at all. The original Sportscar (SP) [and later Sportscar Plus (SP+)] class[es] which included any sportscar raced between 1950 and 1969 are now divided into four distinct classes: 50SP - 1950's Endurance Sportscar 60SP - 1960's Endurance Sportscar USSP - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar USSP+ - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus Any host can combine these if they wish, such as 50SP and 60SP as Porsche911 did last visit to Spa Lyons. Trans Am Plus (TA+), Boulevard Cruisers (BC) and Indy Roadster (IR) have been on our radar for many years. You can find several threads for each of these classes started years ago in our forums area. Simply use the search scratch32 website feature at the bottom of any page to find helpful examples of discussions, builds and tests posted by many of you which have proved very beneficial in getting these classes up and running. Unlimited Open (U) while a new class is not really anything requiring a new build or anything special since everyone racing with R32 will already have more than suitable models that have no class to race under. Models previously raced in the former Classic Prototype series (CP) are all great candidates as are other RTR models such as the Mosler. Well, there you have it. Going forward R32 will add a fifth race to every race morning and these new classes will feature equally within our schedule for the balance of 2023. I'll remind you that the KRZ chassis works very well for both the boulevard cruisers and indy roadsters (among many others). Contact Kensredzed to order one if you don't have a car already. In addition to our usual R32 rotation we will have S32 special events including American Thunder, La Carrera Panamericana, Ringwood, Coppa D'oro, Targa Florio, Player's 200 and the Internationale Meisterschaft for those hankering to scratchbuild even more! Now get building!!!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged). Motor: BWNC1 Chassis: Any in any configuration Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D7 (black or white walls) strongly recommended]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Indy Roadster (IR) Indy Roadster (IR) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any true, front engined roadster that tested, registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards. Eligible Liveries: Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced are allowed. Motor: BWMS050. Chassis: Any inline front motor configuration where the complete motor 'can' is forward of the base of the windscreen. The motor may be offset. The motor shaft extension may use additional bushings/bearings and be directly attached to the motor shaft with any flexible coupling (such as a spring or soft tubing) or be offset using any gearing. Minimum Weight: 80g Maximum Overall Width: 54mm Tires: Any sized DArt Club Series urethane tires with a reasonable scale appearance. [DArt D7.5 strongly recommended]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Pieces for D’Art Chappy 2J Kit Sold at GRP25 show Hello gents, somehow I'd acquired 2 of the beautiful D'Art Chappy 2J kits, decided to sell 1 at the show...I sold it to a gent, he asked me to open and show to him which I obliged, but shortly afterwards, I noticed a very small ziplock that had some of the kit detail in it(Roll bar/Mirrors/Stacks), which he must have not put back in...I feel really bad, I looked for him but couldn't find him. Perhaps someone knows him?? If so, please give them my contact details, and would be happy to mail to him. He must be in the 'Slotcar community', so maybe you know him, or could ask around. Thank you,   Drew

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Cupcake Raceway hosting SOS32 Sunday Event – held February 26, 2023 What's faster, a 50's Sportscar or a Semi? Does it really matter when 11 racers had a ton of fun running 50's Sportscars, Scalextric cars, Open F1, Group C/Rolex up to 25,000 rpm, and Fly Trucks! Yes, for the first time in a long time, Semi's made it back onto the SOS32 schedule. It might have been the last race of the day, and perhaps the most intense for marshal's, but it was great to see them back on track. Many racers will work on putting in bigger wood guides for the next time, and there will be a next time, likely sooner than later. The day started with 50's & 60"s Sportscars and this class continues to get more competitive regardless if some BWA motors are better than others. Regardless of that, tuning still makes the most difference. The Scaley Stock Plus class may have been the most competitive class, and surprising how quick the cars are getting. The stock chassis, body, interior, and motor make for a great base. Tuner choices for pinion, gear, bushings, and wheels make for some wonderful, and quick, cars. Then it was time for Open F1. With so many new F1 cars on the market it seems senseless to try to create specific classes, so why not run an open class, which we now do on occasion. Seems now though that the Scaleauto F1 car looks to have a lot of potential! As fast as the F1 cars were, the days quickest laps still came from the Group C/Rolex class cars where our host finished a very impressive 2nd ... way to RT! Thanks again to our host for another day of great bagels, great cupcakes, great coffee, great racing on a great track, and, most importantly, a ton of fun with a great group of racers. And next time we race at Cupcake Raceway, sometime in April probably, it will be in the opposite direction. By: JCB   Classes: 1) Sports cars 2) Scaley Stock Plus 3) F1 Unlimited 4) Group C - Rolex (up to 25k motors) 5) Fly Trucks (stock motors & gearing)   Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. Voltage set @ 10v Three marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order.   Thank you Rob for another fun day of racing and for your hospitality!  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050;  Tires: Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire; Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Unlimited Open (U) Unlimited Open (U) v1.0 Eligible Models: Any body (hard or clear) regardless of class Tires: Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Maximum overall width of 70mm

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • User Login Update I've updated our Scratch32 login process for all users and tested it using a generic test account. All users may now log in using any of these website links: The original MEMBER LOGIN widget at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page; The original Log In fields at the bottom of every forum thread; and The new LOGIN main header menu link at the top of every page (or the new LOGIN footer menu link at the very bottom of every page) which will take you to a new customized login page. After you log in you will see your avatar and user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page, along with a logout link. Please remember to log out using either that link or the logout link underneath the classifieds widget at the bottom right side of every page. After you log in if you wish to view your user profile click on either your avatar or your user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page. You can also edit your profile there, including changing your password or your avatar. Please note that after you log in there will no longer be a black account administration menu at the top of Scratch32 pages. If you wish to edit your user account, change your password or avatar or log out you will need to use the procedures noted above. Should you forget your user name you may now log in using the email address associated with your account by clicking on the LOGIN main menu link. If you forget your password you can have it reset by clicking on the Lost Your Password? link immediately underneath the new login page to receive an email allowing you to reset your password. ***REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER AS THESE PASSWORD RESET EMAILS ARE SOMETIMES FLAGGED AS SPAM. *** Hope this helps... Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Trans Am Plus (TA+) Trans Am Plus (TA+) v1.1 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that raced in the Trans Am series between 1966 and 1973 regardless of class. Bodies may not be modified by chopping the roof, adding flares or modifying fenders in any way. Motor: Any Gearing: Any Chassis: Any Tires: Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • 1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP) 1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed between 1960 and 1965. Cars produced in or prior to 1962 constitute Group 1 cars and cars produced thereafter constitute Group 2 cars Motor: BWA BWMS050 Wheels - Not exceed 14mm in diameter AND: Group 1 wheels must be no more than 6mm wide Group 2 wheels must be no more than 7mm wide Tires: Rear - Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - Any Stock or DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Overall maximum width of 50.8mm

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Nova Ridge Saturday October 15, 2022 Art Thanks again for hosting another day of racing at this fabulous venue.  Looking forward to the next one.   See attached the photo of the guide wire that just snapped off my Stratos G5 car.  This has always been an issue with these cars when using the stock set up with set screws.  Now I have a reason to swap the set screws with brass eyelets.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: R32

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Group25 show spoils I reserved a table at yesterdays Group25 show last fall or I would have been at Nova Ridge. I bought more than I sold. Oops. The 1/32 Russian Yak-18 will eventually be hung as a decoration above my new track. It will be painted as a stunt/show plane. The red Strombecker Chapparal 2D is an odd looking thing. You can't have too many Camaro's. Can you? I bought five 1/25 kits. I might turn one into a slot car.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1960’s 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) 1966-1969 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a 3.0L Grand Prix car which competed from 1966 through 1969 Chassis: Any inline chassis Motor: Scalextric FF050 as provided in current releases of Scalextric brand cars Wheels – maximum 14mm diameter Tires - Any DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 12mm; and Front maximum width of 7mm; Maximum overall width of 60mm

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Spam Be Gone! Gents, After some time experimenting by allowing non-registered email posts within our forum recent spam attacks proved more than just an annoyance - so now only registered accounts can post to our forums. Please be advised that throughout this experiment our website was never compromised nor were any user accounts compromised in any way. If anyone or anyone you know wishes to participate in our forums please request or have them request to have an account set up. It is easy to do and safe and secure as well. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • CANAM (CA) CAN AM (CA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a Can Am car which ran at two sanctioned CAN AM races at different tracks in any year between 1966 through 1974 (coupes excluded) Rear Wheels: minimum 14mm in diameter Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire (NC0101 and D11 recommended, D13 STRONGLY recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • 1950’s Grand Prix (50GP) 1950's Grand Prix (50GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body model representing a Grand Prix car which competed between 1950 and 1960, typically with engines in front of the driver Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, BWMS050, Vanski FF050 or Ninco NC1 Wheels: maximum 14mm in diameter x 6mm in width Tires: any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire (SC0120 and SC0120F highly recommended) Overall maximum width: 50.8mm

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Modern F1 (F1) Modern F1 (F1) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any 'stock' modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model Motor - must be a 'stock' Scalextric S-can or slim motor - whichever came with the model Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm Optional Modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used - rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels Rear Tires - any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire Front Tires - 'stock' or any DArt 'Club' series urethane replacement tire Rear Axle - may be replaced by a solid axle Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Weight - may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body - no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only) Gearing - stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracing

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Classic Stock Car (CSC) Classic Stock Car (CSC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a hard top stock car which competed in the 1960's (plus or minus 3 years). All bodies must contain a clear plastic front windshield, rear window and all quarter windows (driver and passenger door windows may be removed) Motor: BWA BWNC1 Wheels: Maximum 14mm diameter Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Tire [DArt D8 or D9 strongly recommended] Minimum overall weight of 100g.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body modern (1995 or newer) era model that competed at Le Mans regardless of designation or class Rear Wheels: Minimum 14mm diameter (or larger) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • 1970’s Grand Prix (70GP) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed from 1970 through 1980; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: Scalextric FF050 or Fly / Flyslot FF050 as provided in current releases by these manufacturers; Tires - Any size DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 16mm; and Front maximum width of 10mm; Maximum overall width is 68.5mm.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any model with or without fenders; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: BWMS050; Tires: Any size DArt Club Series urethane tire (ie. SC0120 (rear) & SC0120F (front) recommended); Maximum width of front and rear rolling assemblies (track) is 50.8mm but bodies/fenders may be wider; and At least one racing number.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3.0L LeMans (3LM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body open cockpit prototype that competed between 1972 through 1977 in an endurance race such as LeMans (as raced with headlights) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (NC0101 or D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Classic LeMans (CLM) Classic LeMans (CLM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric, Fly and SRC sidewinder 'Prototype' models which competed at Le Mans between 1965 through 1971 Motor - 'Stock' Scalextric, Fly, SRC or equivalent (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (FL0201 or NC0101 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Minimum overall weight of 80g Optional modifications: Wheels - front and back may be replaced with 14mm wheels - Inserts or wheel detail to match the original car Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Axles & Front Pins - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning' Gearing - stock gears may be replaced with any 11T pinion and any 36T crown

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Trans Am (TA) Trans Am (TA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Sidewinder Scalextric and Pioneer Trans Am models Motor: ‘Stock’ Pioneer or Scalextric (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (SC0801 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series (SC0801F Urethane Tires recommended) Minimum overall weight of 85g Optional modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide together with any guide adapter Wheels - front and back may be replaced by any 14mm aluminium wheel. Inserts are to be period correct and resemble original car Axles - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning') Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Gearing - any 36T spur gear may be used together with any manufacturer 11T pinion

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • R32 XLVI FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 12, 2022 @ MVL (12 pm) Classes: NASCAR (NC), 1950's Sportscar (50SP), Group C (GCI) and Group 5 (G5); Format: Random chip draw will determine rotation position for every race. 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4. Five marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. NASCAR (NC): #11 - 103 Laps (17.032 ext.); #88 - 97 (12.852); #48 - 96 (17.690); #24 - 96 (24.944); #43 - 94 (28.211); #26 - 93 (21.312); #88 - 86 (24.484); #48 - 84 (17.647). 1950's Sportscar (50SP): #22 - 97 Laps (23.723 ext.); #6 - 94 (15.710); #10 - 94 (16.949); #18 - 92 (13.085); #47 - 85 (22.485); #7 - 84 (10.104); #701 - 79 (14.864); #56 - 74 (26.678); #36 - 66 (42.060). Group C (GCI): #62 - 109 Laps (11.672 ext.); #62 - 106 (23.255); #14 - 105 (8.310); #25 - 102 (12.745); #85 - 102 (12.933); #7 - 101 (14.288); #38 - 99 (10.675); #6 - 94 (13.880); #62 - 93 (16.308). Group 5 (G5): #23 - 113 Laps (20.485 ext.); #21 - 105 (12.963); #576 - 104 (5.208); #539 - 104 (8.296); #51 - 104 (15.077); #14 - 101 (8.254); #?? - 100 (10.945); #23 - 93 (15.754). [foogallery id="24645"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Anonymous (Email) Accounts & Spam Gents, Since allowing anonymous (email) accounts to engage our spam folder has gone crazy. You may see some bizarre posters in our forums area but not the posts - since they've gone to spam - it is only after they are manually deleted do they disappear too... so be it. Not a big deal but an annoyance none the less. Let us know your thoughts - is it worth it?  

      Started by: Arthur in: Anonymous (Email) Accounts & Spam

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Scratch32 Accounts Gents, Given the relentless attacks on our website (and ongoing security issues they create) for the safety of our regular participants accounts not used (or logged in) for three months will be deleted without notification.

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1960’s Endurance Sportscar (60SP) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) v5.0 Eligible Models or Hard Bodies: Any 1960's era Sportscar (production or prototype) that competed in an endurance race between 1960 and 1969 lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tires; Maximum width of body not to exceed 57mm; Minimum overall weight of 75g.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Group 5 (G5) Group 5 (G5) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Sideways brand Anglewinder ‘Group 5’ model; Motor: ‘Stock’ Sideways plain yellow wrapper; Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D11 strongly recommended]; Minimum overall weight of 84g; Optional modifications: Any parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. pods, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Group C (GCI) Group C (GCI) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Slot.It brand inline Group 'C' or 'IMSA' model; ‘Stock’ parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Motor: ‘Stock’ White or Orange endbell Slot.It motor; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series D11 or SI0201 Urethane Tires; Minimum overall weight of 80g; Optional modifications: Any Slot.It parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. offset pods and offset crown gears, larger diameter wheels, screws with metal washers, set screws and spacers for aligning front axles, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • NASCAR (NC) NASCAR (NC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric brand Sidewinder NASCAR (Car of Yesterday or Car of Tomorrow); Stock parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series SC0705 Urethane Tires; Front Tires: Stock Front Tires or DArt Club Series SC0705 urethane tires.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Recent ‘Brute Force’ & ‘DD0S’ Attacks’ on Scratch32 Gents, Some of you may have recently experienced frustrating delays and/or errors loading pages and forms. This was due to both unprecedented cyber brute force attacks and new DD0S attacks on our website by hackers in multiple countries. Brute force attacks repeatedly try to crack administrator passwords to gain unauthorized access and DDoS attacks bombard the site with coordinated  zombies/botnets to flood the server and slow it down or even crash it. Welcome to 2021! I've been monitoring these attacks and tightening our login requirements using several tools. So far I can confirm that no breach has occurred although our website has been very slow at times. With https our site already offers the most secure server side connectivity as is possible so for all users/members there is no need to do anything other than ensure you follow safe internet practices, such as: ensuring your connection to our site is always secure - via https only (you will see a little lock icon beside the address); use a unique password for your Scratch32 account to ensure that should any breach ever occur your password is useless for any other web related services; change your password regularly; and avoid using auto login on your computer. Remember that under 'My Profile' you can also add/remove/edit your own contact information at any time. Please ensure that you only provide as much information as you are comfortable with. To have a Scratch32 account you only need to provide a valid login ID and email address - the rest is superfluous. Scratch32 does not process payments, payment information of any kind nor any financial transaction at all. Links to products from any of our advertisers are handled and processed separately and independently through their own secure servers. No data whatsoever is shared. For example, our title sponsor DArt processes every financial transaction through square.com . For those of you who I may not see over the upcoming break - stay well this holiday season and I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Remember that if we all do our part we will continue to keep Scratch32 safer for all of us to use for years to come.

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Scratch32 Administration Refinements Gents, I removed the black menu bar which used to sit at the top of the page which I believe many users found confusing and problematic to use. Some features did not work using the links from this bar, like changing your avatar for instance. Now if you want to change anything related to your own profile you will have just one option - to go to 'My Profile' in the top menu from any page - and everything there works. Create blog posts from your profile page as well. For new forum topics please make sure you are within the appropriate sub-forum first before starting a new topic, otherwise every new topic goes to the General Information forum. I'll do some housekeeping with this and hopefully everyone will be on board going forward. I also reset all forum user accounts to eliminate the problem that some accounts had with posting new forum topics and replies. I've tested this with a dummy account and it seems to have solved this problem for all accounts which have already posted a topic and a reply in the past, but hey, you never know. If you post a new topic or reply in our forum area and it doesn't appear online immediately after you submit it then it would need approval before being published - it isn't gone or lost - so be patient and it will be approved if need be...

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Making The Ring Constructing The Ring Planning Prior to routing and after contemplating layout alternatives I decided to stick to the past features of tracks that I believed worked best for all forms of 1:32 scale racing with some compromise to facilitate the scenic element I desired. Some of the DO's and DON'Ts I followed: DON'T: Cram too much track into your space - less is more Use mechanical lane switchers or other 'gimmicks' that more often than not fail at some point during an event Use lane cross-overs Try NASCAR style banked turns with corners having an outside diameter of 6 feet or less Have ANY 'humps' (depressions or compressions are fantastic and achieve the same drama) or any abrupt elevation change Incorporate any very tight fixed radius 'kink' in the middle of any long straight Have 'shortcuts' that dramatically favour any lane Place corners or brake zones in obstructed areas Place corners in unreachable spaces Have more than one squeeze zone Have any lane with a diameter less than 10" (10" is already a hairpin) unless this absolutely cannot be avoided Have lane spacing less than 3" anywhere but for a squeeze - 3.5" spacing is ideal Have outside gutters less than 6" away from any outside lane in or after any corner Place any scenic element (ie. guardrails, tire stacks, hay bales, trees) closer than 6" on the outside of any corner or the exit of any corner Make straights perfectly straight DO: Have an odd number of track overpasses Endeavour to make your lanes as equal in length as possible (if you space your lanes the same distance apart throughout without shortcuts they will be the same length provided you have an odd number of overpasses) Place all driver stations along the same vantage 'area' (ie. same side of track) but not too close together (alternate driver hookups spread around any track are great for practice or those times that just a few of you are having some fun) otherwise the home track advantage is too hard for many guest racers to overcome Ensure the last corner before your main timing straight is either an 'easy' corner to drive or a hairpin to minimize the frequency of 'riders' Incorporate at least one high speed corner, one hairpin, one long straight and one squeeze zone (Since preparing this article I've changed my mind and moved away from placing a squeeze in my newer tracks) Have lane spacing of at least 3.5" or 4" in the area directly in front of driver stations. Remember that the higher speed corners require greater lane spacing than just 3" otherwise cars will constantly make contact which is a big problem for open wheel models, especially wider Grand Prix models Routing & Support Structure For efficiency I used three routers, one mounted to an adjustable radial arm to cut the outside track edge, one set up with a jig using two adjustable bearings to cut the outside lane and one with a stepped base (3", 3 1/2", 4" spacing) for center and inside lane routes as well as edges and ditches. I had Luf's flexible strip on hand, some 8' strips of 1/8" hardboard plus the most warped piece of strapping I could find, and from scrap mdf I also made an 'S' shaped template to route each lane for the squeeze so that all three lanes would be identical. If you are an experienced and capable woodworker with the necessary tools and wish to try to route your own track there are no shortage of tutorials elsewhere if you need them. But I will assume that no one with little routing experience would take on this critical component of such a large project... The frame supporting this track is nothing special. It uses a combination of pine (1x4s & 1x2s) and spruce (2x4s) which is hidden by a cloth skirt. A shelf was made underneath for storage. Assembly Now that you've completed or purchased your routed sections and built your open grid support it is time to give your race room a track! Adhering to the 'measure twice' 'cut once' adage means that this portion of the build should come together quickly and with no surprises. Individual pieces were laid over the grid and glued together with white glue using scrap mdf underneath each joint, a section at a time. Proper alignment and clamping ensured a smooth transition. Patience is a virtue! Of course, with more clamps the quicker things go. By the time I clamped the second last joint what was clamped first was already dry... Clamp the last joint to complete the track after all other pieces have dried first. Here the last joint was set and clamped. Perfect joints do not require any fill for smooth performance. If necessary, I use Bondo. But remember, even the most 'perfect' joint will show after painting unless it is filled and sanded. If you do not want a joint to show at all you must fill and carefully sand each one. Now we have a single floating track. Time to add cross members. Strips of pine were laid out in the locations shown and glued and clamped in place underneath the track. These provide additional support and a place to fasten our uprights and later our hardboard borders. Since we didn't use screws there was nothing else to fill or sand on the track surface. Next decide where you want the track elevated. Keep in mind that overpasses should be no less than 3" high - I went with 3 3/4" to be safe. Camber can also be introduced and will have a dramatic impact on how your models perform in the corners. I used 1x4" pieces of pine cut in various lengths as uprights joining the cross members to the frame. Once the uprights are screwed to both the cross members and the frame they can be adjusted later without compromising the track surface. (You may want to tweak camber or the height of any track areas after your uprights are all screwed in place which is easy enough to do - just back out screws from the frame, adjust and then re-screw...) Don't forget you can use your clamps to help add camber, but don't be aggressive - otherwise the mdf will separate - and if this happens you tried to do too much. With 3/8" mdf if you can bend it without breaking it then as a general rule it should be fine for racing on...Elevation together with camber changes are now complete and the track is fully supported. Be conservative with any elevation change, especially rises. Off camber corners are challenging but do not over use them. BE CONSERVATIVE! Lightly sand the slots now. Painting A single coat of flat latex mid grade paint was applied using a standard roller. (Now I recommend using a small foam roller (4" wide) such as the ones you can buy at your local dollar store - this will give you the smoothest finish which will enhance the grip level.) Care was taken to ensure even coverage. Two coats should be perfect - if you need to do yet another coat then you've done something wrong.Areas for concrete patches were masked and painted using the same technique. Concrete sections, asphalt patches and lines were masked and dollar store acrylic paint was applied - for the patches using a small foam roller and for the lines using a small brush and 'dry brush' technique.Cutting uniform lines was made easy using two box cutter blades affixed to each side of a 1/8" scrap of hardboard. Curbs made from the halves of N gauge cork rail bed were also painted white and glued in place. The inside of the slot is not painted. Those that know me understand that I try to make things consistently imperfect to reflect the era of a 1950's or 1960's track... so perfectly solid white lines, curbs colours, etc. must be avoided... For a modern circuit - sure, but that's not my goal here... For the curbs I painted the entire curb white (two coats) and then used a rectangular stamp I fashioned from some solid foam to paint the black checks. As you can see they came out just the way I like them - far from perfect! Cracks in the concrete pads were cut using a fine Xacto knife. Applying a wash brings out the detail nicely. Lane marking 'dots' were applied where needed. Ensure all power tap slots are painted as well as routed ditches. You can mask and paint your skid marks at this point. I did not. Copper Foil Allow paint to dry for several days before applying the copper foil (copper tape). Do not attempt to tape your track in high humidity - this will have a number of adverse consequences down the road and you'll be unhappy with the results. The tape and the mdf have different expansion characteristics, not to mention that mdf absorbs humidity as well and will expand more in a damp environment.Make sure to take your time doing this. Use a single piece for each run trying not to break the tape. Start and stop each run from one of your power tap slots, this way the solder will ensure conductivity both ways. Luf makes a handy tape application tool if you've never done this. I find that applying by hand allows me to stretch the tape carefully around tighter corners for smoother corner transitions. Use a smooth rounded edge to burnish the tape after application, such as the side of a BIC lighter - but make sure not scratch the paint with the metal top! Burnishing the tape is VERY important and I cannot stress this enough. Edging and Facades Overpass facades fashioned after a bunker style poured concrete look were glued and clamped in place. Walls were also added. Ensure sufficient clearance for classes you race. 3 3/4" will accommodate Fly trucks. 1/8" hardboard was cut into 4" wide strips and applied to the outside edges of the track, fixed against those cross members we previously glued in place. Although it varies, border height averages just 1 1/4" above the surface of the track, sufficient to keep a 1:32 scale closed wheel racer on the table.Additional scrap pieces of wood 1" thick were added where more support for the hardboard was needed. Additional hardboard was used to fill in gaps between the border and track. DAP paintable caulk was applied to fill cracks. A hardboard back was also added to support the small hill.Now that outside edging is in place driver's stations were added. I used a minimalist approach but mounted the stations so that the controller hookups were upright. Wiring I use a central harness from 18 gauge wire for each lane which joins the driver's stations to each of the power taps located throughout the track. Trackmate driver stations together with all of the Trackmate timing, gantry and power relay hardware are easy to hook up when you follow the instructions.Make sure to get your polarity right when soldering your power taps though... otherwise you'll drive yourself crazy figuring out what went wrong. Adding a shelf underneath your table for both the power supply and computer is time well spent too. Make sure you test everything thoroughly before attempting any scenery. Scenery After proper wiring and testing it was time to start the scenery. Notice that where appropriate, track edges were routed to accommodate a smooth and realistic hard shell scenery transition to the mdf track surface.Cereal box or other similar thickness cardboard strips were glued to the underside of the track surface and to one another in a 'grid' to provide lightweight yet sturdy support for the wet hardshell to come. Wherever possible I always use white glue rather than other adhesives or fasteners. This part is fun for the kids too! After carefully masking the track surface and covering the rest with plastic wherever necessary it was time for the hydrocal. Small batches of hydrocal were mixed in a large plastic wash bowl and strips of shop rags were dunked in the mixture then quickly applied over the cardboard grid. If a rock casting was to be applied in an area I waited till the mix set and then 'glued' a cured casting in place using more mix, carefully filling gaps and cracks with more of the hydrocal mix and sculpting the surrounding areas as the mix dried. Where smooth or grassy areas were desired I simply brushed on several coats of hydrocal. Until cured, the colour of the drying hydrocal mix is darker and clearly reveals the castings. Woodland scenics water soluble liquid pigments were used to colour the rock formations, applied in several light washes, using just a large brush. Let gravity do the work for you. Soak up excess. A tan base coat of flat latex was brushed on to cover up the rest of the snowy landscape. I let this dry.After masking each area to be worked on a 30/70 white glue/water mixture with a drop of dishwashing liquid was brushed wherever grass was to grow. A liberal sprinkle of a mixture of fine Woodland scenics foam ground cover was applied, using several shakers. After spraying another coat of the glue mixture more ground cover was applied. After the third application of ground cover the grass was done. Adding Man Made Features Custom built structures and other man made elements were then installed. Urethane tire stacks were weathered and glued into place using Gorilla Glue. Scalextric guardrails were cut, painted, weathered and 'nailed' into place. Other details were installed, including an army of urethane straw bales, painted first, then glued into place at several locations around the track.It was a start and although far from finished the track was now ready to host its first race. - Art

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Introduction to The Ring – The Numbers The Ring Mississauga, Ontario, Canada This version of The Ring is the fifth custom routed three lane wood track that I've built for myself. Briefly, the Ring is a private three lane custom routed scale model slot car race track occupying a footprint of approximately 22' x 7'. The track surface is constructed from 3/8" mdf routed using a 1/8" flat bit sunk 1/4" deep. The track 'floats' on open grid bench work and is fully scenerized using a cloth soaked hydrocal hard shell base over cardboard strips. There are 1/8" borders raised an average of 1 1/4" high above the track surface. The three lanes are spaced 3 1/2" apart but for the single squeeze where spacing drops to just 1". Lane lengths are very close (green=72' 2 3/4", yellow=72' 3", red=72' 2 7/8") and the number of left and right  turns are identical. Outside gutters are at least 6". Three overpasses provide a minimum clearance of 3 3/4", enough for Fly Euro Trucks. Total track surface elevation change is just 7" but appears greater. Average race surface height from the floor is 2' 9". The track was painted using a standard roller and mid range flat latex paint. Dollar store acrylic paints were used to paint the 'patches', skid marks, lines and race driver tributes. Wired positive, this track was 'taped' using Venture Tape Master Foil Plus 7/32" width and .038mm thick (red core) part no. 1750. Four soldered 'power taps' ensure continuous and uninterrupted power throughout from a Pyramid 30A adjustable power supply. Trackmate  hardware and SlotTrak software provide the timing while Trackmate driver stations ensure easy controller hookup via alligator clips or banana plugs. As racing is a priority at this track racer's sight lines and ease of marshaling were kept in mind during the construction of this track. Model railroading inspired the scenic 'dimension'. But for a handful of recognizable items (grid rats and pit accessories, half tires, guardrails, signage posts and 7 'Kleinbahn' HO light posts) everything is scratch built from wood or styrene or cast from either plastic, resin or urethane. All but 5 trees are hand made, including various birches, aspens & hemlocks. Don't overlook what raw scenic materials you can find in your local green belt or at the bottom of a Muskoka lake... Pictures and a blurb on how some of these scenic items were created may make it here. As always, time will tell.

      Started by: Arthur in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Rebuilding Goodwood Sadly, after many many years of service in Beaverton, ON, Goodwood was taken apart earlier this past summer after the passing of owner John F. last year. Thankfully Goodwood found a new owner and is now being resurrected in another beautiful Ontario location. I was happy to take up the challenge of helping move this track to its new home. After months in storage on several skids the pieces survived, albeit some badly warped, but all intact. Since the track was cut into 6 sections (using a 1/8" bit in my trusty router) reassembling the track sections would be straightforward just as it had been built - align, glue, clamp and next...The front straight was quite warped but with a little luck and some help from gravity it came about. This was the first time I had ever tried to straighten a piece of mdf... and it proved to be a much bigger challenge than even the corkscrew of Bass-Seca.Since the reattached sections had fairly tight joints filling, sanding, painting and re-taping could be avoided. After adding patches over the copper joints, a little paint touch up to the track surface and the black borders - all of the original wiring and electronics were connected and tested. At first the overhead gantry wasn't getting any power but after cleaning and reconnecting the socket everything worked as before and we were in business to run some test laps!After thorough testing and many several 100's of laps she is ready to go with just scenery to finish (and rollers to be added)... it took a couple of days to get this far, perhaps a few more to get the rest finished - stay tuned...

      Started by: Arthur in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Rat Rod ideas There are a lot of kits out there that never entered an endurance race. The Studebaker Avanti is one of them. Strange, yet interesting car. It would probably be considered too narrow for a sports car. But it might fit the Rat Rod class in a striking ugly flat grey or flat black with 8-injector stacks and 8-exhaust pipes coming out of the hood. I'm installing headers on my next BRM and have a spare set of these exhaust pipes that would look crazy sticking out of each side of a Studebaker hood. Starting to lean towards the "Mad Max" theme.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Routed test track It's not easy to guess how a new car will handle at a race. It's hit/miss without a track. Someone posted this and it caught my attention. It can be configured to go in reverse with the flip of a switch, and has it's own power supply with a potentiometer instead of a hand controller. A bit crude, but it only measures 30" inches by 48" inches. It would not take much to improve it for our own uses. As a first upgrade to this design. You can make all three curves different radiuses. Create a drag-strip beside it if you want to test top speed or acceleration. :yahoo:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Body posts The 4-40 brass inserts are easy to install. Just set them on a hard surface, flat side down. Cut the Evergreen tubing a bit longer than required. Then use a small hammer to tap the plastic over the insert until the plastic bottoms out. The chassis needs to be partially assembled to the point of having the wheels spaced to fit snugly inside the body. This photo shows the body sitting on the tires without body posts. Then install the body posts directly to the chassis without washers of any sort. Test the body fit and trim the posts little by little until you like how the body sits. I often trim the posts until the body sits on the tires again. Then add the washers after for a close fit. It's the only way to slam a car. The photo below shows the body posts trimmed to size. The next step is to prepare the body for the posts. I scuff/scrape/scratch up the area where the epoxy will be applied with a knife. While the posts are still mounted to the chassis. I apply epoxy to the inside of the body, and a little to the top of the body posts and set the body on the chassis. For me, the tires resting on the body help keep the body level. You can add equal spacers under both rocker panels if you don't want to slam your car close to the track. Here are the body posts after being epoxied in place. The chassis can be completed for final assembly to the body. The steel and urethane washers have been added. The body sits very close to the tires, and we have body float. But the tires don't rub. :good: A small strip of masking tape is stuck under the chassis to prevent the body screws from backing out. Urethane washers on both sides aren't enough. They all need tape. You'll see it on all my builds. I found the best way to assemble the chassis to the body is... Screw through the chassis first, steel washer next, then urethane washer, to the body post. Lightly snug the screw until it allows the body to wobble ever so slightly. It may loosen up after the first race and require re-adjusting. It should then be good for many races. The urethane washers usually keep the screws and steel washers in place while chassis and body are disassembled for whatever reason. My first car is still on it's first set of urethane washers and going strong. Good old Fred Steinbroner in the funny blue Tudor. These urethane washers last a super looooong time. :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

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