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• • Forums Gents, Local engagement in the forum spaces is very low. I might try to incorporate some areas into posts or pages as I refocus but if there is anything of particular value to you in a forum please save it for yourself. Cheers!

    Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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  • 1 week ago

    Arthur

  • Parts required to assemble a chassis The following is a suggested parts list for a typical aluminum chassis build. 3/32 x 3/16 Professor Motor Oilite bushing part# PMTR 1073 (or bearings part# PMTR 1176). 3/32 Professor Motor axles part# PMTR 1034 (Hardened). A variety of different size axle spacers. NSR or Professor Motor brand seem to work well. Professor Motor 2x3mm set screws part# PMTR7000 (Hardened hollow point) or Spaenaur part#481-006 in bulk. Professor Motor silicone high-flex lead wire# PMTR 1060 (yellow) PMTR 1059 (black) PMTR 1058 (red). Slot.It universal screw-in guide part# CH10, or NSR 4845 screw-in guide. Slot.It 1mm competition braid part# SP19. Slot.It 23T offset crown gears. DArt Hobbies 10T pinions. DArt Hobbies BWMS050 motors. RS Slot Racing wheels UK, or Slot.It wheels. DArt tires. DArt Hobbies wheel inserts. #227 Evergreen styrene tubing for 4-40 body posts. 4-40 brass inserts for body posts. 4-40 countersink screws (Phillips preferred) DArt Hobbies #3 Urethane body washers. 5-minute epoxy. Note: Substitutions may create fitment or performance issues. Links to suppliers for parts: http://www.darthobbies.com/ https://www.professormotor.com/ http://www.raceworldcanada.com/shipping.php https://spaenaur.com/catalog/3/#zoom=z (1,716 pages)

    Started by: Ken

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  • 1 month ago

    Ken

  • Axle spacers and crown gears This combination of spacers was recently used on the Beetle chassis. I measured the distance between the bushings. Then measured the crown thickness. I was very lucky in that the numbers were close enough without having to use too many spacers to take up the gap. The exact right number. They are sitting in order of how they sit on the axle. 2mm brass and an 0.010" inch steel spacer.    Crown gear.    1.5mm brass and 2 x 0.005" inch steel spacers. Before gluing the motor in, the 0.010" spacer was installed on the same side as the 2 x 0.005" spacers. The motor was epoxied in place holding the gears tight to each other. After the 5-minute epoxy hardened. The axle was removed, and re-installed with the 0.010" washer on the other side to create an exact gear mesh clearance. The crown has raised letters that can interfere with measuring it. So I sand it smooth with 400-grit paper on a flat surface. I make small circles so as not to sand any side down more than the other. What I found by mistake is that you can easily take a tenth of a millimeter off the width of the crown to help it fit better. Use the least amount of spacers as possible during assembly. They can have a bit of a spring-like reaction in larger numbers. Best regards, Ken

    Started by: Ken

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  • 3 years ago

    Ken

  • Body posts The 4-40 brass inserts are easy to install. Just set them on a hard surface, flat side down. Cut the Evergreen tubing a bit longer than required. Then use a small hammer to tap the plastic over the insert until the plastic bottoms out. The chassis needs to be partially assembled to the point of having the wheels spaced to fit snugly inside the body. This photo shows the body sitting on the tires without body posts. Then install the body posts directly to the chassis without washers of any sort. Test the body fit and trim the posts little by little until you like how the body sits. I often trim the posts until the body sits on the tires again. Then add the washers after for a close fit. It's the only way to slam a car. The photo below shows the body posts trimmed to size. The next step is to prepare the body for the posts. I scuff/scrape/scratch up the area where the epoxy will be applied with a knife. While the posts are still mounted to the chassis. I apply epoxy to the inside of the body, and a little to the top of the body posts and set the body on the chassis. For me, the tires resting on the body help keep the body level. You can add equal spacers under both rocker panels if you don't want to slam your car close to the track. Here are the body posts after being epoxied in place. The chassis can be completed for final assembly to the body. The steel and urethane washers have been added. The body sits very close to the tires, and we have body float. But the tires don't rub. :good: A small strip of masking tape is stuck under the chassis to prevent the body screws from backing out. Urethane washers on both sides aren't enough. They all need tape. You'll see it on all my builds. I found the best way to assemble the chassis to the body is... Screw through the chassis first, steel washer next, then urethane washer, to the body post. Lightly snug the screw until it allows the body to wobble ever so slightly. It may loosen up after the first race and require re-adjusting. It should then be good for many races. The urethane washers usually keep the screws and steel washers in place while chassis and body are disassembled for whatever reason. My first car is still on it's first set of urethane washers and going strong. Good old Fred Steinbroner in the funny blue Tudor. These urethane washers last a super looooong time. :good:

    Started by: Ken

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  • 3 years ago

    Ken

  • Getting started Everyone has different gifts and talents. No one has a monopoly on good ideas. Please feel free to send me an email with your questions, concerns, or suggestions. I will try and implement them into this forum. [email protected] Thanks a million! Ken

    Started by: Ken

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  • 3 years ago

    Ken

  • How to keep your aluminum chassis, square I find using precision axle spacers help to build a chassis that remains square. The math keeps things accurate between all 4-corners. Many choices and brands of axle spacers are available. I tend to prefer NSR brass axles spacers for their accuracy. I try and keep several spacers in stock of almost every size ranging from 0.25mm to 4mm. I won't build a chassis without them. You often see them on my build threads. Motor installation section to follow shortly... Thank you for your patience. Ken

    Started by: Ken

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  • 3 years ago

    Ken

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