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Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use.
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