I was thinking of making this an SP-slow class car. But it really doesn’t fit the style of car. Corvettes were all potentially fast. Installing a different motor is a matter of reaching to the left or right side of the chassis once the 5-minute epoxy is mixed. Flat-6 here we come!  :yahoo:

Ken

Art. You and me both can’t wait to see how this will turn out. Nice looking lady. She seems to have everyone’s attention.

Jim. It’s not really ambition. It’s the product of being a newbie and not knowing where the limits are. It’s too easy to install these motors. I may regret it. Am I really the first one to try this kind of thing? Hard to believe.

If there’s a pile of crown gear material laying on the track after a few laps. I’ll know I went too far. Chris Walker has a car with an inline drive and angled gears. Looked very inspiring to me. Something to consider if this drive system starts to tear itself apart.

SP+ is open. Why not experiment? I can always change the motor. They pop out in less than 2-seconds. Takes 2-minutes to clean the remaining epoxy. Then mix another batch of 5-minute epoxy and another motor is installed. So long as the replacement motor is a slim-line (or thin like a flat-6), it will fit.

The aluminum chassis are dedicated to either an S-can or slim-line motor based on axle/pinion height. Beyond that I can move around within either style of motor by popping the old one out and gluing in the new one. I figured that out when I ruined a motor and had to replace it before a car saw the track.

Like the songs goes… She’s my “lil’ red Corvette”. This experiment should be fun!

Ken

Group 5 cars come with a 20k flat-6’s geared at 11 x 28 = 2.54 ratio. That’s a known formula that already works.

Experiment A = 22k flat-6 geared at 9 x 26 = 2.88 ratio.

Art has informed me that my cars so far have very little brakes. I want a taller gear ratio to offset the extra 2k in the motor, and increase braking.

I’m crossing my fingers that this should work. I’m fairly confident the car will move in a forward direction. The question remains, will it corner well?

Ken

Motor is glued in place. Tires are glued and trued. Now comes my least favorite part. Cutting hardened axles. Hope to try it out for the first time this Monday night. This idea of “Tuning at the Ring” is amazing. This might be the first time I can tune a new S32 car before it races. Ken

The body and chassis weight 80-grams. The only thing to add are the body posts which are going in shortly.

Sleep is over rated. The 427 big block is installed. It weighs 82-grams total.

Countersunk screws. The evolution of the aluminum chassis.

As I build each car. I look back at my mistakes and say stuff like… “crap, I could have bent the aluminum up a little at the back to hide it better”. There’s always another car to build. This should be fun to test none the less. Mistakes and all.

Ken

Thank you very kindly gentlement. Yes the Molotow chrome pen will makes it’s way across the door handles and wipers, etc… I took the cheesy hub caps off. I need to see Art about CB-Wheel inserts.

After checking many photos. Very few racing Corvettes had bumpers, or side-pipes. So the bumpers will stay in the box. The tail lights will get get some work done when the chrome and livery goes on. I expect to handle and debug the car a lot at the test.

Ken

It goes like a rocket! Fun but twitchy. We had to add weight to make it a bit more stable. The total weight is now 90-grams.

Art. Thanks for all your help!

SP+ here we come!

Ken

I changed my mind and installed the bumpers. Too much red. Gold wheels just to be different.

I need to buy some number decals.

The original car was number 3, and was silver in colour. This red version will be number 9. Driver will be Mickey Thompson. Engine builder for Mickey was Smokey Yunick. The real car had a big-block 427 and was known as the “Mystery motor Corvette”. It was a fast car for it’s time.

I got brave and tried the chrome on the back. The chrome started to run in the circle at the center of the rear deck. I wish it wouldn’t do that. I didn’t even bother with the fuel injection emblems because they aren’t raised up high enough. Quit while I’m ahead. Too easy to ruin a nice paint job.

I heard about something called a “rattle pan” chassis. I am not exactly sure what that is, but I needed to add 10-grams to this car. Because this car is high enough above the track, I made a brass plate that sits under the chassis. I installed the plate, backed the screws off, then epoxied the threads above the chassis so they can’t back out. The plate rattles around ever so slightly. The car now weighs just over 100-grams. My curiosity is peaked on how it handles now.

Ken

Here it is fully completed and ready to test again. Thanks for looking.

Ken