• This topic has 13 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 4 years ago by Avatar photoKen.
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  • #14580

    ok starting a new thread for this build.

    I found a lexan body from the 60’s of this model so I thought I’d try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body.

     

    The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60’s and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR

    After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this:

    Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches

    I found some nice 60’s die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D’art’s inserts.

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    • #14581

      It is still a far cry from this but lets see what we can do.

    • #14582

      With a little bit of paint and decals it is starting to shape up

      Still some more detailing to be added and build the chassis.

      I’d like to offset the suspension as on the oval cars but since these will be run on road course layouts maybe that isn’t the best way to go.

    • #14583

      Some great pit stop action from ’63:

    • #14584
      Avatar photoDB

        Looks great!

      • #14585

        It looks great. I think this class more than any other has challenged our ingenuity and building skills. The decals really make the car pop,  can I ask where you got them and are  the blue and red areas decals as well or did you paint them?

        Cheers

        Steve

      • #14586

        Thanks guys!

        Indycals sells a large variety of Indy decals Steve as well as other decals. They are quite good quality.

        https://www.indycals.net/decals/otherindycars.html

        I decided to hand paint the blue and red areas as the color usually pops a bit more when painted.

        It was tedious though and takes a steady hand. Up close there are  few wobbles but what can you do?

        Another option would be to paint a clear decal sheet and hand cut the stripes but that can also be tedious to apply.

        The decal sheet does come with red curved stripes but I wasn’t sure if it would fit and wrap easily around the contours of the body.

        I also got my Matra decals from Indycals.

      • #14587
        Avatar photoKen

          Nice looking car F1nutz!

          Thank you kindly for the decal reference.

        • #14588

          The site also has great reference images for a lot of the cars.

          Sorry I thought everyone was aware of Indycals.

        • #14589

          Looks really nice F1nutz! Well done! :good:

          The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

        • #14593

          Today’s progress, body complete.

          Had to fabricate the bumper, roll bar, windshield and exhaust.

          Time to get rolling on that chassis!

        • #14595
          Avatar photoKen

            Looking very sharp F1nutz!

            I could use a few lessons on scratch exhaust for the Bardahl Special. It came with half a pound of shielded copper wire for exhaust. I had to ditch that idea.

          • #14596

            Hey Ken

            I used appropriate sized aluminum tubing for the exhaust. Usually I polish it first with very fine sand paper.

            I bend the end to the appropriate angle for the front most header.

            It helps while bending to insert some thinner copper wire to mitigate having the tubing collapse and flatten at the bend.

            Copper wire can later be removed or trimmed and left in there if it gets too stuck.

            I then cut and dress the other straight header pieces to fit the profile of the main tube (angled cut with sanded vertical concave profile) and crazy glue them parallel to the first header piece.

            It helps when crazy gluing aluminum to lightly sand it in the glue contact areas first for better adhesion.

            I then reinforce the underside with more crazy glue with baking powder sprinkled on it as aluminum to aluminum bond is pretty weak. The baking powder is pretty rock solid once it dries into the glue and won’t be seen much on the underside of the header (unless you’re a bad driver ;^)).

            Test fit the exhaust piece in the body opening and add bends as needed in the rest of the length of the exhaust.

            Trim to length and I usually gently ream out the tip with a small Phillip’s screw driver to make the pipe look more scale thickness and paint the inside of the pipe black.

            I also added a thin aluminum strap cut from a beer can (Guinness in this case) as on the real car and fastened it just below the cockpit with a tiny amount of crazy glue. I used a piece from the bar code as it had a perfectly printed black stripe which added a nice extra strap detail I did not need to paint.

            If you prefer a clean exhaust the aluminum can be polished to an almost chrome like finish or you can add further paint detail to represent heated exhaust patina as you may prefer.

            I usually use a mixture of mostly clear with red, blue and/or purple and just wash it on gently in light layers near bends and joints in the pipe to add the patina. Oil based paints work best for this but in this case I tried citadel water based which goes on a bit too thick in my opinion.

            I then clear coat with future to protect the finish.

            Then in this case I added some matte burnt brown/black to the end of the pipe using dry brush technique to add further realism.

            Cheers!

            Bill’s Muffler and Exhaust Shop

          • #14599
            Avatar photoKen

              Thanks a million for the detailed explanation Bill! It is an amazing idea.

              Aluminum tubing for exhaust… I already used some on my Lotus 30. Somehow I feel like I should have thought of that. Thanks for the reminder!

              Cheers!

              Ken

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