• This topic has 8 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 4 years ago by Avatar photoKen.
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  • #12746
    Avatar photoKen

      Hopefully this will get finished in time for the next race. This car was painted at the last paint workshop. Then stripped and repainted. Second time was the charm. Quite the challenge to fit an aluminum chassis under this body.

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      • #12794
        Avatar photoKen

        • #12799
          Avatar photoKen

            The body had to be sanded to get the chassis to fit. Using a nail-file, it took about 20 minutes. But it also prevented removing too much material too fast. That kept the tolerance close. I thought I would have to give it more clearance for body-float. But the body lip at the bottom lines up with the pivot-point on the post, so it never touches. Luck was on my side.

            It took a small piece of brass to align the pinion with the crown. The motor shaft does not go through the pinion. The bearing takes all the side-load of the low power motor.

            It took a little extra chassis trimming to get the guide to fit under the front axle and still pivot. Almost half the bearing support had to be removed. The guide screw almost touches the axle. Tight fit.

            A little extra material also had to be removed from the back of the chassis to fit the body.

            The solid body posts were removed in favor of #227 Evergreen hollow tube and 4-40 brass inserts. The empty body weighed 8-grams before adding the rest of the parts from the kit. The car now weighs 68-grams in total. Thanks for looking. Ken

          • #12800
            Avatar photoKen

              I forgot to to say… The wheelbase is a bit hard to figure out with such a large opening for the front axle. After examining what felt like a thousand pics on Google images. I came to the conclusion that the wheelbase for my 1936 Type C would work out to be approximately 87.75mm.

              Ken

            • #13228
              Avatar photoKen

                I should have gone straight to “The blueprints” to figure out the wheelbase.

                https://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/cars/

                 

              • #13259
                Avatar photoMiA

                  Great looking car Ken. Spectacular job!! :good:

                  When I went to the blueprints site the numbers were quite hard to read. Maybe I was doing something wrong??

                  Another site that is very useful for this sort of thing is http://www.ultimatecarpage.com. If you go there and navigate about you will see the specs for just about anything you can imagine.

                  In the case of the Auto Union Type C:

                  https://www.ultimatecarpage.com/spec/872/Auto-Union-Type-C.html

                  Wheelbase / Track (fr/r)
                  2,908 mm (114.5 in) / 1,372 mm (54 in) / 1,372 mm (54 in)

                  making for a 32nd scale wheelbase of 90.875 mm. or so which is probably close enough without trying to scale drawings. :wacko:

                  Scale track f/r was a very narrow looking 42.875 mm

                  Between the two sites one should be able to answer most dimensional questions.

                • #13260
                  Avatar photoKen

                    Thank you very kindly MIA.

                    You can’t have too many resources. Thank you for adding more. Your calculations on the wheelbase is more accurate. The back axle is locked into a slot. But the front axle could have been moved forward 3.1 mm. Live and learn.

                    When mapping out your chassis for an Auto Union. Take into consideration that increasing the wheelbase may put the guide directly under the front axle. A sheet of paper will not fit between the guide-screw and axle on my car the way it is now. They can’t occupy the same space. All I can say is. Measure twice, cut once. I had a bit of luck on my side.

                  • #13262
                    Avatar photoMiA

                      Great job regardless of what the numbers say! :yahoo:

                      I think that in the end one just does the best one can with the body you have to work with. The #’s probably have to serve as a guideline at best. Scale bodies certainly are not always to correct scale :wacko: and when the original full scale cars were being designed or the scale models were being molded the designers might not have taken into consideration all the issues with converting them into a functional slot car.

                      Excellent work at fitting it all in! Car looks great in off white.

                    • #13263
                      Avatar photoKen

                        Thanks again MIA. I hope I inspire others to do better than me and look forward to the other builds.

                        The car is an absolute pleasure to race. :good:

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