Search for: searching... Viewing 39 topics - 1 through 39 (of 39 total) Topic Voices Replies Last Post 1/43 289 Cobra A Monogram 1/43 Cobra kit somehow ended up in my hands. What should I do with it? Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 4 2 weeks ago Ken DArt Watson Indy It's been a while since I started something for myself. Time to dust off the machinery. I found this cool photo of a Watson Indy in metallic orange. That was the inspiration to start this car. I just painted this today. Super nice day outside. The build begins. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 5 11 5 months ago Arthur 66 Corvair Long before I joined S32 and Group 25. I built an AMT 1/25 static 1966 Corvair. I didn't paint it because I didn't know how. I eventually learned how to disassemble and paint cars. It was time to re-visit the old Corvair. It has a new chassis with a corrected wheelbase. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 3 5 months ago Ken 71 Charger RT Someone requested a lesson in paint. Today was the day. I needed something to paint in order to show what to avoid. The only body I had ready to paint was an AMT 71 Charger RT. It was one of my first model car kits as a 10-year old. Time to fulfill an old childhood dream and make this one go! This colour leans more towards a Kawasaki green. No metallic. I think it suits the car. Now I can put it aside for a few weeks while I do other things. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 2 5 months ago Arthur 62 Bel Air, Bubble Top The bubble tops were interesting cars. I would hate to flip one in an accident. But they sure looked cool. Here are the parts. The inspiration for this build came from these photos. This is what the test looked like before the body posts were installed. The body still needs the chrome strip going the full length of the car. I'll attempt that another day when I feel brave. A full interior made of card stock is next. Thank you kindly for looking. Ken Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 2 8 months ago Arthur 1965 Impala Super Sport This pre-painted and fully assembled static model came from a Group25 flea market. It was a quick test to see how these large cars would run at Nova Ridge. It was quickly turned into a slot car test bed. My humble apologies. The paint is ugly. But it passed the test. With the slot car test a complete success. It was time to freshen up the body. Off with the old paint. A full interior made of paper is next. Thanks for looking. Ken Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 4 9 months ago Ken 1966 Olds 442 W30 I've never seen a slot car of a 66 Olds. It's an odd duck. Either you like them, or you don't. There's no middle ground. The box. The only parts that actually came in the box. Barely enough for a slot car. A pic of a completed kit on Google inspired the Tamiya Cobalt Green colour. A chassis was made. The car fell on its roof seconds after painting it. Thankfully a vinyl roof was in the works anyways. Problem solved. Mating the chassis to the body. The car is ready to run. It needs bumpers, window/body chrome, windows, and interior. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 2 9 months ago MiA Red Monogram Cooper Ford Our Group-25 friend Ted modified and painted this Cooper Ford in a Canadian livery. This was Ted's inspiration for the build. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 3 9 months ago Joe 1964 Rover BRM I got very lucky in finding this kit. They simply aren't available anymore. The real cars were gas-turbine powered test-beds. Very strange car. The first step to planning out the chassis: What is the wheelbase? Using tires that are too large just for the purpose of measuring the wheelbase can reduce room for error. I happen to have a pair of old 17" inch Slot.It wheels/tires that were the wrong choice for another car. Perfect! Slide the body into the wheels/tires until the wheel-wells of the body centers the tires. (this one's easy because the wheel wells are round) Carefully slide the body away making sure not to move the wheels. I measure the left side of the axle holes on both wheels to get the wheelbase. In this case it's 73.30mm. It doesn't matter what the actual finished tire diameter is. The wheels will be perfectly centered in the wheel well. The old 17" inch wheels go back on the shelf to measure the next car. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 8 10 months ago GI 1953 Carrera Panamericana winner Fangio and Bronzoni won the 1953 Carrera Panamericana in their number 36 D24 Lancia. The slow motor classes are some of my favorites so I thought I'd give o'l number 36 a try. When finished this car should qualify for both our 50's sports car and our Carrera Panamericana classes. The body is 3D printed in Elegoo ABS like resin from a file I purchased online. The chassis was designed and printed by me in PLA+ on my FDM printer. The body weighs 10.5 grams and the chassis adds another 5. The D24 has very little front overhang, making designing the chassis and the location of the various front end components a challenge. I will add the body posts and source the images for making the decals next. Cheers Steve Started by: racer68 in: Scratch Built Models 4 6 1 year ago Ken 59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser". Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 9 1 year ago Ken Ford V8 Special – #32 – Ireneu Correa – 1935 Rio Grand Prix Many consider Ireneu Correa as the 'grandfather' of Brazilian motor racing since he was the first Brazilian to win an international race - the 1934 Rio Grand Prix - which was raced on the lengthy Gavea course. A little history on the Rio Grand Prix can be found here. South American racers who competed in early motor sport events throughout the Americas favoured and raced North American models right up to the outbreak of the second world war and this was particularly true for Correa until his death in 1935. These models were not elegant - they were in fact very hard to look at - but in the 1930's they achieved successes in part because their competition was focused on motor sporting events back on the European continent. But by the mid to late 30's European entries would begin to dominate major south American events such as the Rio Grand Prix. Correa trained in the United States as a mechanic in order to modify and prepare his own race cars. The entry which he prepared for his return as Champion of the Rio Grand Prix in 1935 was yet another Ford - a V8 Special - entered as #32. Unfortunately on the first lap while chasing the race leader Correa would skid out of control and hit a tree launching his car into the canal - an accident that he would not survive. Believe it or not his car would return to race again but became known as 'the cursed car' after killing another pilot. And so with that historical perspective in mind I decided to kitbash a Lindberg Ford kit into something unusual to compete against a deluge of European models for a new 'pre-war' class - an early to mid '30's Ford V8 Special, as prepared and raced by Correa in the 1935 Rio Grand Prix. I'm not a rivet counter or a scale fanatic nor do I believe that a slot car must be as detailed as a static model so I kept an open mind when planning the chassis, but first I would have to bash a body. My priority was for this car to look right when circling the track. That being said I still wanted the model to be as close to scale and as detailed as possible. It was also imperative that the guide be hidden as much as possible and not be visible at all when viewed from above. I shortened, lowered and narrowed the back of the kit body and then fabricated the rear end using styrene sheet and tubing to make the extra fuel tank and crown gear cover (to which the spare tire would be fixed) and wrapped it with a thin piece of L shaped styrene stock. The interior floor was raised in the centre to accommodate the FF050 motor and two DArt racing seats were modified to fit side by side. At the front I added a few styrene plates to cover the gaps left underneath the motor covers along with a few body flaps where the windscreen used to be. I used as much of the frame that came with the kit as I could - and left the fender seam and the trim underneath the front grill. The rear of the frame together with the bottom of the fuel tank (I think that is what it is) was cut off and added underneath the new rear end. The rest of the kit would be tossed except for the steering wheel, shifter, brake and dashboard. A complete DArt 'Nouvolari' driver figure would lose its head in favour of another DArt replacement. and that would come later. When I was finished I was left with two pieces - the complete body, floor and rear end and the separate frame which could be glued to the body after paint. I turned 5 wheels to 16.5 x 5.3mm which would accommodate a set of DA0210 urethane tires and DArt spoked inserts. I know these inserts have too many spokes but I liked their overall look and how they extended well beyond the wheel flange. I also cut off the ears leaving just a small round cap at the centre instead of the original two eared knock off. In order to ensure that the installation of each insert (after paint) would go without a hitch I drilled out material from the backside in the centre of each insert to accommodate any small extension of the axle and the washer for independent fronts. The overall diameter of these wheels with tires mounted and trued was 23mm. With dimensions of the body and wheels now in hand it was time to plan the chassis. I fabricated a small motor bracket for the BWMS050 motor and would use two sizes of piano wire and brass tubing to join everything together. I went with very small Slot.It bushings at the rear in order to give me flexibility in mounting the rear of the body. Due to the ride height of the chassis and with several parts needing to be attached at different levels this chassis took a little more planning to make sure it would turn out right - measure twice, cut once. The motor would sit 3mm below the chassis and the guide sleeve 5mm below. The chassis didn't need to be too strong since it was for a low power motor and a lightweight body - and was never travelling to a proxy race. I decided to mount the body using some styrene tube into which the chassis would 'snap' at the rear and a #226 styrene post up front into which the 'V' shaped wire brace would be secured with a single screw. Material was removed from these three contact points until the ride height was where I wanted it and there was enough body float. Urethane DArt washers would allow sufficient body float and prevent the screw from ever backing out of the brass insert. My own research didn't turn up much to assist with this project so I needed to improvise and make educated guesses where appropriate. With a Brazilian owner/pilot it was more than likely that this model would have raced with a pale yellow body on top of a green frame/chassis with black numbers. I sprayed the wheels a lighter shade of green and weathered them with several washes of dirt. The body was sprayed yellow and then the paint was sanded using 1200 wet paper to give the finish a dull, worn and weathered look. Since I used grey primer underneath the colour changes slightly depending on how much paint was removed. Everything else was hand painted. Number decals were printed on my inkjet printer and sealed using Crystal Clear - and then applied. Nothing was used to seal or coat the decals after they were applied but I still might apply some Micro Set decal sealer by hand... I made a small cover from large styrene tubing which I painted flat black and glued to the front of the guide to hide the clips when viewed from the front. Other details included the textured belt and buckle and a spare with a small aluminium rod that was bent and fixed to the centre of the hub which secured the wheel on the real car. I planned to add a second tire underneath the spare but have not done so (yet). The chassis components for this model: BWMS050 w10t brass pinion x 28t Slot.It crown (for now - gearing will be changed though); DArt 16.5mm x 5.3mm wheels with DArt inserts; DArt DA0210 urethane tires; Slot.It rear bushings and PM axles; Scalextric Round Guide with Slot.It braid and generic silicone lead wire; The basic specs (at present): 60.3g overall weight; Track: front = 53mm / rear=52mm (excluding inserts); Wheelbase: 80mm (83mm from guide); Chassis Clearance: 8mm / Min. Clearance: 5mm (at motor/bracket); The driver still needs a pair of goggles and a co-pilot is in the works too but there is no rush now that the model is ready for action. For more pictures of this eyesore visit our model gallery here. Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models 3 5 2 years ago Arthur VW Beetle I finally broke down and bought an Arii Beetle for the Carrera Panamericana. Fun little kit. I decided to go with car number 262 in the Beetle caravan. The main difference between car 261 and 262 is the fold-up open top roof. Both cars were apparently red. The kit was molded in red. Why fight gravity? I studied the removable top in more detail. It did not look like someone stuck a matress on the roof of the car as pictured in the example of the model above. It might look more like the thickness of a sheet of paper on a 1/32 model. Like the example of the real car below. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 1 3 3 years ago Ken Shelby GT-350 I started this car before I had proper direction. A newbie mistake if you will. I did not realize when I chose the "Candy Lime Green" colour that S32 Sportscar class stops at 1965. After a little bit of digging. I found a 1966 Shelby GT-350 that was entered in the 1967 Targa Florio (#210). A scarce American Mustang among a field of mostly European cars. It didn't make the race due to an accident during practice. It became a one-of-a-kind GT-350 BBQ. There are very few pictures of this car simply because it didn't race. This Shelby was all white. After taking 3-days to remove some really nice paint. The "Candy Lime Green" Shelby became all white. The chassis. I put a little more effort into manipulating the rear of the chassis so it tucks under the rear valance. Measure twice, cut once. The Shelby fits in the GT+2.0 class and requires a Scalex 18k motor. I went with 9x28 gears with an offset crown to keep the CG as low as possible. You can still see hints of green under the body. Hard to get it all out. The chassis tucks nicely under rear valance. It's a tight fit. The car came with black wheels. Inserts are D'Art 5-spokes. The car sits fairly low. The body could have gone even lower. But it's my humble opinion that it would not improve the look even though there might be a slight handling improvement to lowering it further. It's very difficult see the chassis under the body unless you lay your eye on the track. Mission accomplished in my books. The car has body-float.The tires don't rub on the fenders even at the extreme flex of the body-float. But they sure can't get any closer than they already are. It should be ready for the next Targa Florio. Thanks for looking. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 5 3 years ago Ken 65 Pontiac GTO A friend (Another Michael) in Group-25 model club gave me this Monogram static kit and said "Make it go!". I finally decided to take his advice. It might make an excellent "Classic Stock Car". The picture on the front makes the car look tall and skinny. The decals on the side of the car look terrible. Two things I plan to avoid with this build. This is what comes in the box. After water sanding the body with 2000-grit paper. It's ready for paint. Tamiya orange covers the red fairly well without primer. I ditched the decals and threw the tall and skinny idea out the window. The rest of the field of Classic Stock Cars were the inspiration for the final body-height of this GTO. There is much yet to be completed like blacking out the front grills. Painting the tail lights red. The body requires Molotow chrome pen detailing. The driver is on order. He's out getting a hamburger, fries, and a Coke. One suggestion for a sponser is "Kickapoo Joy Juice". You would need to have lived through the mid 60's and already be self-aware to remember this old soft-drink (soda pop). Perfect for a vintage 1965 car. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 5 3 years ago Ken 65 AC Cobra I bought a Ninco AC Cobra missing some parts a long while back. Steve and Art were with me at Carefree Hobbies when Nick (store owner) quoted $20. My brothers in slot cars were a bit dissapointed that they didn't see the car first. I was lucky that day. Thanks Nick! The body used to look like this. The car I would like to make is a Targa Florio livery from 1966. It will also serve as a Sportscar SP+. This idea started long before last July when I originally painted the body. Too many plans... Too many cars... The sun really makes the metallic pop. This Cobra will get a Scalex FF 050 slim line motor with an offset crown - 9 x 27. Stock, legal motor for this class. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 5 3 years ago Ken 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 7 27 3 years ago JMSracer Bugatti Type 50B – Penelope Pitlane I found a resin Bugatti T50B body kit from Pendle Slot Racing. It's made by Penelope Pitlane. It's a fairly simple build. It weighs 75.2-grams. 10x24 gears. Thank you very kindly for looking. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 4 3 years ago Ken Jag XK120 Carrera Panamericana This build was inspired by DB's white XK120. He also gave me the body. Thanks Dave! I was looking to build another Carrera Panamericana car. I found a gentleman by the name of Frank Hern that drove an XK120 in the 1952 race. He did not finish due to an accident. It's my least favorite colour. But "British Racing Green" is extemely accurate for the times of the Carrera Panamericana. :wacko: I love the spats! D'Art blue dot tires on old CB wheels. Use what you got! Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 13 3 years ago Felix 1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 5 20 3 years ago Ken D’Art inserts in Slot.It wheels made easy I have some regular Slot.It wheels and wanted to install a specific D'Art insert that's only supposed to fit a standard RS-Slot wheel. I bought a package of standard Slot.It inserts and gently sanded down the spokes to pop out the center and expose the outer ring by itself. It was easy to press the D'Art insert into the ring. I could not get the inserts out of the rings once they were pressed in. I'll use a drop of glue to make sure they don't move. I used 150-grit sand paper. It took 15-minutes of sanding by hand to get the spokes out from the outer rings. The belt sander would have disolved/melted the inserts in seconds. Slow is sometimes better. Now anyone can install just about any standard 14mm D'Art insert in almost any 15"-inch Slot.It wheel. The sky is the limit. Thanks for looking, Ken Started by: Ken in: How To – Build It 2 2 3 years ago Ken Cooper Ford T61 With nothing on the workbench. Time to get started on something new specifically for the 1960-1965 SCCA series. I purchased this body kit from Professor Motor and somehow managed to get most of it completed a little at a time between all the other cars I've built. The last thing to do was to make a chassis. Not what I would call the right order to do things, but it is what it is. Making the chassis first would avoid scratching the paint. But that would take patience. Whatever that is... A BWNC1 was supposed to go in this car at first. Then I ran into some clearance problems with the larger motor. A BWMS050 should hopefully do the job. I know what I'm doing over the holidays... Assembly. I would like to wish the entire group at S32/R32 a very Merry Christmas! Ken Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 8 3 years ago Ken 66 Shelby Mustang I was asked to build a car for a friend. What better way to pass the time. The body is a Monogram GT-350. I have the exact same car in white. It was a fun way to test the accuracy of the original drawing. The request was "Keep it low, but keep it level". Thanks for looking Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 3 4 years ago Ken 59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 12 4 years ago Ken 32 Ford Hot Rods without fenders is unexplored territory for me. No one in the group has a 1932 Ford. The kit has many parts. Only a few will end up being used. This is just the body and front grill from the kit. I can't hide the front part of the chassis. I might as well figure out a way to make it part of the Hod Rod. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 15 4 years ago Ken McLaren M20 I thought I had built cars for every class. Turns out my CanAm Lola Mk2 is from Art's collection. I have yet to build a CanAm car myself. There is a Carrera McLaren M20 collecting dust on a shelf that could use a serious upgrade. The livery is from 1974. Driver: Helmut Kelleners The original plastic chassis did not survive the bandsaw for some strange reason. The old parts go into a junk box. The side body-panels are much lighter now. Each side panel is made up of three parts. One screw on each side keeps the assemblies secure. The body is ready for a new scratch chassis. The first step is to re-read the rules for CanAm in order to choose the right wheels, tires, etc... Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 6 4 years ago Ken D’Art Matra MS10 Most if not all Matra's were blue. This Matra found a can of Tamiya "camel yellow" and got friendly with it. The engine detail is Tamiya "semi-gloss black". The components at the rear have been painted with Tamiya "gloss aluminum". I still need to detail the interior, driver, engine and transmission parts. The body components snap into place nicely. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 7 4 years ago Ken D’Art Shadow DN1 With the Ringwood around the corner. I have race classes to fill. I painted this lovely body last July. Time to get the chassis started. With the tires glued and trued. I can start to map out the chassis. Anyone need chassis plans for a DN1? :mail: The driver and helmet were easy enough to complete. Two-part helmet and visor are a nice touch. Chassis is ready for drilling and cutting. :good: Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 6 4 years ago Ken 1936 Auto Union Type C Hopefully this will get finished in time for the next race. This car was painted at the last paint workshop. Then stripped and repainted. Second time was the charm. Quite the challenge to fit an aluminum chassis under this body. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 8 4 years ago Ken Chaparral 2D If I could have a race car on the street. This would be it. Nothing nicer looking to me than a Chaparral 2D. I was fortunate enough to find an old beat up and badly sun-baked Strombecker body at the last Group25 model show/swap meet. First thing to do is to disassemble the parts. The body is in rough shape. Full of scratches, and lots of faded plastic. The underside shows how badly discoloured the body is. Choosing a colour was easy. Out of all my cars so far, Tamiya Candy Lime Green is still the favorite. I'll let other club members fight over the white cars, and main liveries. I prefer to be different. Now to choose a motor, gear ratio, and wheels/tires. I hope to eventually build 3 of these Chaparrals. Two more are on order with D'Art Hobbies. Those will be way easier to acquire. Thank you kindly Art. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 2 10 4 years ago Ken ZL1 Corvette Stingray The second Anatoly Arutunoff Corvette is well under way. Like the first. This car is built in honour of the man, and his efforts to enter the Targa Florio in 1971. The first Vette has a Scalex motor in line with the 327 that should have entered the race in 1970. This one is more in line with Anatoly's 1971 - 427 Vette in that it has a Fox-10 for open class racing. I hope it will be completed by this week. I learn something with each build. I left nothing on the table with respect to how close the body sits on the chassis on this one. Any lower and the tires touch the inside of the fenders. Perfect! :good: I tried to make this a sidewinder but the motor hits the bearing flange before the gears mesh properly. You can see where I shaved the aluminum past the bearing flange. I even tried to angle it, but there is not enough room to work with in this size aluminum tubing. By the time the gears mesh, the motor is well into the tire area. Back to inline we go. *mumble* :scratch: Ken Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 14 4 years ago Ken Morris Mini Cooper I found a Morris Mini Cooper in the 1972 Targa Florio. I also found an appropriate car to get this project off to a good start. As you can see by the photo on the right, the car is "Plum Crazy Purple" in colour. That should be a cool addition to the other liveries. The drivers for car #51 were Matteo Sgarlata and Joe Anastasi. Class = S1.6. Sponsored by = STP. I need to open the wheel openings in the fenders to fit the 13"-inch wheels/tires. That will give me an opportunity to make those crazy looking fenders. The motor is a tight fit with the stock interior. I will need to get very creative with this little car if I want to lower it with bigger wheels, and still keep an interior with a driver. Fun looking car. It was a nice surprise to find out it has working head lights and tail lights. Since this build is not about speed. I'm going to try and keep them. Look out green Giliberti cause a purple Mini will be on the hunt! All in good fun of course. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 15 4 years ago Ken D'Art Porsche 550 Spyder I painted this car last July. The body should be safe to handle by now. Someone suggested I expand my build threads so others can learn how to duplicate my mistakes. Careful what you wish for. I measured the wheelbase and mapped out the chassis. Then I installed axle spacers on all 4-corners to help figure out the track width as well as center the chassis to the body when I glue in the body posts. I will remove the rear axle spacers after cutting the axles to length on final assembly. The front axle spacers remain in place to keep the independent wheels centered. 5mm spacing per corner was just right for this combination of parts. The chassis lays down nicely in the body. The tires are touching the inside of the top of the fenders at this point. But avoid the sides of the fenders. The build is self-slamming. I used to scratch my head on how to figure out the length of the posts. Toothpicks are a handy measuring device. I'm looking forward to seeing this car run. This will be the lowest car I've ever built. If this car runs half as good as the RS61? It will be a blast to drive! :yahoo: Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 9 4 years ago Ken Luis's Ferrari 312P Berlinetta Luis asked me to post these pictures until he can get the bugs out of his PC. Nice start to the build Luis. I can't wait to see it run! Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 5 4 years ago Arthur 65 Mustang 2+2 My very first thread was February 2018. Before I knew how to scratch-build, I posted a pic of an Eldon Shelby GT350 that I put together using an old Hornsby plastic chassis. It ran like... an old Hornsby plastic chassis. What a surprise. You only get what you invest. It was unrealistic to hope for more. It was time to re-visit the old Mustang idea. But with a fresh start. This is an AMT static kit I painted at the cottage. This chassis was going to hang out more than any other on this car forcing me to re-invent the back section. It's not perfect. But it's an improvement. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 3 8 4 years ago Ken Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 5 10 4 years ago Ken Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 8 5 years ago Ken C3 Corvette I found this kit a while back. The body is reasonable. I like the car. I was the kid on the bike in the background when this car was new in 69. Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 6 23 5 years ago Ken Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead. :good: The assembly begins... Ken Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models 4 6 5 years ago Ken Viewing 39 topics - 1 through 39 (of 39 total) Thank You for Reserving Your Space! Thank you for successfully reserving your space. See you then! × Thank You for Your Entry! 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