All of those replacement parts which any serious racer should consider using. Please include only eligible parts. Links to retailers or to part details are encouraged.
  • This forum has 13 topics, 47 replies, and was last updated 6 months ago by Avatar photoKen.
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    • Forums Gents, Local engagement in the forum spaces is very low. I might try to incorporate some areas into posts or pages as I refocus but if there is anything of particular value to you in a forum please save it for yourself. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • Bearings and axles Greetings from Bancroft gentlemen. I usually take something with me when I go to the cottage. The Watson Indy needed to be assembled. Every once in a while I run into an oversized axle that doesn’t fit the bearings. I’m glad I brought other things to do. Too bad I only brought two axles for the build. Make sure to bring a bearing with you to Ernie’s to test any axles you want to buy. Ernie doesn’t make the axles himself and will happily exchange any axle that doesn’t fit.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Put more weight in your pocket!!! $$$$ that is....Was tired of paying $6-7 for Lead weight, very small pieces, so looked for alternative, and found this https://www.amazon.ca/Surtiycrii-Self-Adhesion-Pickleball-Material-Thickness/dp/B0BHQXY7TD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YJX8EVDXXINC&keywords=Surtiycrii+W+1%2F2%27%27+x+L+100%27%27+High+Density+Lead+Tape+Self-&qid=1680190748&sprefix=surtiycrii+w+1%2F2%27%27+x+l+100%27%27+high+density+lead+tape+self-%2Caps%2C459&sr=8-1 W 1/2" X L100" X 1MM thick 372 Grams of Lead weight in just about perfect size width( on a roll, $20 CANADIAN!!! :>) Even if I have to put 10GR in every car, does a LOT...As they say, do the math. :>) With all the money you're saving, I'll let you buy me a Beer! LOL      

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • DArt A Simple Sled (ASS) Chassis Demand for a simple and cost effective low power motored chassis for sportscars and classic stock cars is surprising. This DArt ASS Chassis specifically for NC1 or BWNC1 motors seems to fit the bill nicely. Several regularly ask for this chassis. I do plan to upgrade it but eventually... stay tuned. In the meantime take care to set up your DArt ASS chassis properly - use a jig and glue everything in place - it will reward you in no time. It took me about an hour to assemble. First off, if your chassis is slightly bent, warped or twisted you can place it on a flat ceramic block (or tile, or anything else that is flat) and hold it in place with rubber bands... run hot water over it - then cold - this will straighten the plastic/resin... Make sure to clean off any excess flashing around the parts before assembling. Drill out the front axle holders using a hand chuck. It is easier to make them oversized and then set your brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. If you are very skilled you can drill out both front axle arms and upper and lower set screw holes to allow independent adjustment of your front axle after the chassis is built. I don't bother going that far though. Measure the axle distances and cut the front tongue to accommodate your wheelbase then epoxy in place and if you have them use screws and washers to help fix the tongue in place. Next glue in your motor (after pushing/soldering on your pinion - make sure to cut your motor shaft if will not be centering your rear axle using the crown gear channel). Then glue in your rear bushings or bearings. Then glue in some bracing using 5 minute epoxy and .055 piano wire. NOTE: The lower brace was glued in after the motor but before the bushings/bearings... Here's what I did to the rear end of my DArt ASS Chassis.... For the front end I set my axle, then glued my brass tube in place with 5 minute epoxy... notice here I didn't bother using any set screws for height adjustment. Balsa wood glued to the underside of the shell provides the best and lightest way to secure the chassis to the body using 2-56 screws with brass inserts... Done!!! And it runs as good as any simple sled should... Thanks for your looking!

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Wheels: 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Gents, for those of you looking to upgrade the wheels on your 1970's Grand Prix cars these are my recommendations: Front: BWA BW13-300-093-375 which take a Small BWA insert and will fit the RM0202 tire (which will need to be trued down significantly); Rear: Part Number PCS321413 "Classic Scalextric F1 Rear" from Pendle which has the typical skinny scalextric rib and will work with SC0105, SC0106 and FL0101 although none of these tires are a direct fit and would need to be glued in place. A small BWA insert will need to be 'tubed' with styrene to enlarge it enough to fit inside the .415" insert opening. One other factor - these wheels do have a small boss for the set screw so make sure you have enough room for them to fit (68.5mm) - otherwise you will need to use single flanged bushings (with the flange on the inside of the bushing holders) - but since the boss is not that large (approx. 2.5mm) they should fit most applications without issue; Both of these front and back wheels are aluminium (which are allowed). Furthermore, there are other rear wheels available, some of which I have yet to try myself but this should get anyone started. Of course, if you are upgrading your wheels you will also want to replace your axle, bushings and crown gear (make sure to keep the mandated ratio however). Cheers! :good:

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Drive shafts for front motor drive I found these drive shafts are in stock as of Nov, 27/19 at Electric Dreams. They are $7.99 US funds. https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/drive-shafts-all-manufacturers-c-3_1322/autoart-1473109-drive-shaft-assembly-for-124-citroen-xsara-p-13402.html They probably won't last long before stock is totally gone. Again.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Scalextric 18k slim-line 050 motors These motors are reliable and powerful. They come with a 9-tooth pinion. Available at Electric Dreams for $8.99 US funds (as of Nov 27/19). https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/scalextric-parts-by-category-c-3_354/scalextric-motors-drive-shafts-c-3_354_359/scalextric-w10093-motor-ff-for-mgb-p-15265.html  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Wheels: Sportscar, Classic Stock Car, Trans Am & 1960's G.P. (Group 2) If you still have a set of the BW15-275-093-375 or BW15-275-093-450 consider yourself very lucky. For those that do not the CB Design Insert Wheels (15 x 7mm) PART NUMBER IW1507S are an appropriate and cost effective aluminium wheel to use in any of the following classes: Sportscar Classic Stock Car Trans Am 1960's Grand Prix (Group 2 Cars - ONLY) Classic LeMans (for any car taking narrow wheels, such as the Carrera 6) Some of the confusion stems from the fact that for the CB Design line of 15" wheels it is unclear what the 15 stands for (likely scale 15") added to the fact that with each wider version of the 15 series wheel the overall diameter changes. The IW1507S measures 14.06mm in diameter and 7mm in width which accords with our R32 rules for these classes. Other wider versions of the 15 series may be too large in diameter and therefore not permitted under R32 rules. (The reason stems from the fact that in any fixed gear class you can change the gearing by using a taller wheel/tire combination.) Nevertheless the IW1507S remains a competitively priced, readily available and safe bet alternative to the old BWA wheels for each class listed above. It makes sense to buy a bunch and then know that they are eligible for several of our classes. Of course there are other makes and types out there, some of which are also eligible for some of the classes listed herein. The IW1507S takes any DArt D8 or D9 tire (or other Ninco classic alternative). Glue on your tires for best performance - when gluing make sure that the rib in the tire is tightly set against either side of the rib to ensure there is no wobble. [One difference between the BWA wheel and the CB Design wheel is that the wheel 'rib' is a hair narrower on the CB than the BWA.] If you do not wish to glue on your tire then the NC0202 or SC0805 tires are the most snug fit. No truer? Then stick to the NC0202. You can try your luck at RaceHaven if Ron has them in stock, or at MiniGrid, or you can order from Slot Car Corner Canada at: http://www.slotcarcorner.ca/cb-design-insert-wheels/ I now have inserts to fit these wheels. The inner diameter for sizing inserts is .490" (or 12.45mm). There are three insert wheel styles which fit these wheels: 490steel60; 490mag5snut & 490minilite, but more will be added over time. Note: These wheels may be listed as 'made in Canada' but there is nothing Canadian about their manufacture, nevertheless they remain a suitable and well performing alternative for several of our classes and therefore worth suggesting here. -Art

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Wheels: 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) For those of you looking to upgrade your wheels for your 3.0L Grand Prix cars you should consider the following: Front - BW13-300-093-375 - which take a small BWA insert & the RM0202 (or CX0201) tire, depending on the look you wish to achieve; Rear - BW13-380-093-375 - which take a small BWA insert & the CX0202 (or RM0203) tire, depending on the look you wish to achieve; A larger 14mm diameter rear wheel (BW15-380-093-375) may be used in place of the rear wheels mentioned above if you wish to model a car that did have a larger diameter wheel in this period but with the overall tire diameter restriction of 22mm this will mean that you will give up the dampening (and grip) offered by a larger tire to wheel ratio... Cheers! :good:

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Wheels: Hot Rod, 1950's Grand Prix, 1960's Grand Prix (Group 1) Those of us who no longer have the BW15-200-093-450 (skinny) wheels can get a similarly sized copy from RS Slots in the U.K. These wheels PART NUMBER: RSW001 are suitable for our: Hot Rod (use the SC0120 tire - either blackwall or whitewall (special order)) 1950's Grand Prix (use the SC0120 tire) 1960's Grand Prix (Group 1 - use the SC0118 tire) and (very nice front wheels for early Group 2) Sportscars (for early era cars - use the D7 tire measuring 7mm in width at the sidewall) Fill in his online form, he'll request payment via paypal and throw your order in a bubble pack. You should get your wheels in 10 days or so - shipping and customs are VERY reasonable. - Art

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Wrong Set Screw w/Slot.It 16mm Anglewinder Gears Just a friendly heads up that I found a Slot.It 16mm anglewinder gear I recently received from slot car corner (which came in the usual slot.it original packaging) contained a 3mm set screw which was not 'cupped' but rather 'flat' tipped. I didn't order more of these gears so I don't know if this might be a one off or not. Normally you wouldn't even notice this. Never use a 'flat' tipped set screw if you intend for your wheel/gear to stay in place - they are however great to use to adjust/set the height of your front axle in any class where this is allowed... ;-)

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • Sideways Grp 5 pods I see that Slot Car Corner Canada has a stock of the new style pods for the grp5 cars. This may become a point for  discussion in the future. Seeing as how we currently allow stiffening of the pod and securing of the motor on the current pod, a test is required also. I hate it when manufacturers change things in a class half way through a run. It really spoils a good stock class.

      Started by: Anonymous

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    • 2
    • 8 years ago

      Anonymous

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