Workbench Essentials

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Essential consumables or tools (whether purchased or custom made) that everyone must have.
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    • Forums Gents, Local engagement in the forum spaces is very low. I might try to incorporate some areas into posts or pages as I refocus but if there is anything of particular value to you in a forum please save it for yourself. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 week ago

      Arthur

    • Gesswein Canada A great jeweller’s supply store near the airport. They have lots of specialized tools and supplies which are easily used for scratch building as well. https://www.gessweincanada.com/ even little finger protectors for when handling hot soldering surfaces. Check it out sometime. The store is small but lots of useful items.

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Soldering Essentials for Chassis Building – What You Need 40/60W Soldering Iron Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons - Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip. Tinning Compound New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned. Solder A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis. Flux and Pre-Cleaning You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years. Post Cleaning Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush. Soldering Surfaces & Jigs You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters. Pliers/Cutters A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool. Rotary Tool A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube. Drill with Assortment of Bits Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering. Sandpaper You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces. Files Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks. Optional Tools A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes. Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Lighting Whether for working on a car. Or taking photos after. You can't paint the details if you can't see the details. Lights are an important part of my workbench. Specially as I get umm... older. :whistle: I have been using the same cheap $59 camera since my first 1949 blue Tudor. It looks like the pics were taken in a dark dungeon. Then I found out that I needed more lights just to do the work. That inadvertently provided more light for photos... The same $59 camera was now taking way better pictures. What just happened?? Ambient light below. With better direct and reflective lighting below. Same camera, distance, and setting. The bench in ambient room lighting below. The lights turned on for photos almost cancel the ambient lights from the room below. If you watch photographers. They always pay extra attention to lighting. Camera's usually prefer bright lights. The detailed and crisp photo of the Lotus was with all three lights on, at close range/macro setting. Here's the $59 camera that took all the shots so far. This one was taken with an iphone. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Nano brushes I bought some Flex-I-File brushes at one of the model shows and never really understood how to use them. So they stayed in my drawer. I prefer to glue things like windshields in place with epoxy. But the risk of a glue-string is always there when using toothpicks. Sometimes you can wipe away the string with a cotton swab (Q-Tip). But the best way is to avoid it altogether. I was somewhat challenged with the Gunze Sangyo kits in that the windshield fits perfectly, but with very little over-lap. Any excess glue would easily show up through the windshield. I bought a variety pack of nano brushes to experiment with. It came with 3-sizes. Small (red), medium (yellow) and large (teal) plus a regular style paint brush (blue). The nano brush is a small puff-ball on the end of a plastic stick that holds a small dot of epoxy. It deposits the glue with amazing precision. Then with a small twist, leaves no strings. It also comes with a re-usable handle. I was able to paint several dots of epoxy at the base of the windshield without any glue contamination. The "rag-top" kits have a weak point. The windshield frame is very sensitive to breaking. It's best to get windshield in the car as soon as possible to protect the frame. I breathed a sigh of relief when this windshield was finally in. Here's the link. They are available in many hobby shops. https://www.flex-i-file.com/magic-nano-brushes.php

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Replacement LED GU10 Bulbs Not necessarily a workbench essential but a race room lighting essential... Those of us who have race rooms using GU10 halogen bulbs whether recessed or on tracks who are looking for an energy saving, warm glow and compatible dimmable LED alternative when replacing existing 50w halogen bulbs should try the Philips 4.5w LED Soft White Light Dimmable Flood GU10 bulbs. They are 380 Lumens and behave the same as original halogen bulbs throughout the dimming range - much to my surprise - so much so that you will not notice any difference in light quality if you use them to replace blown bulbs here and there as they go like I am doing... Available at Home Depot they are just under $17 for a three pack... and they will probably outlast me... The Home Depot Article/Product Number/SKU (in case you wish to order online) is: 1001065206  with the following description: LED 50W GU10 Soft White WG GLS 3Pk 

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoPeter Langlois

    • Bandsaw blades I recently had a bandsaw blade explode and got lucky it didn't catch my hand in the process. I went to the usual industrial suppliers for a 93.5" inch by 1/8th scrolling bandsaw blade and found nothing in stock anywhere (Usually $16.00). I stumbled across a guy that makes blades to suit for $29.00 = Barry at M&L Sharpening Ltd 1550 Bayly Street, Unit 22, in Pickering. When Barry told me that he uses Starret blade stock, I actually got excited. It took Barry 10-minutes to make two blades while I waited. I now have a blade that cuts through thick aluminum as if it wasn't there. The weld is so straight, you can't see it pass when the power is on. I won't buy cheap blades anymore. I like my hands too much. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Essential Tire Adhesive This new Gorilla Clear adhesive is what we've been waiting for to glue our urethane tires! With no expansion, no mess, and no tan ooze this is the perfect tire adhesive. Reasonably priced and available at most big box retailers this should be an easy addition/replacement to everyone's toolbox. Please note that the manufacturer suggests you keep this product IN LIGHT to prevent yellowing over time. If you use it as much as I plan to do then it won't have time to yellow but nevertheless that is the manufacturer's suggestion. I've used Gorilla Clear on many sets of tires and find that it is much easier to use than the original formula but it does need longer to cure - I would wait at least overnight (or in a perfect world) 24 hours. As they would tell Mikey - 'try it - you'll like it'.

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • To Clean or Not To Clean… Ronsonol is Our Choice!!! You need this in your race prep package... This is the only fluid/cleaner allowed for braid cleaning - use it... and use it often. Make sure your braid is dry before placing/racing your car on any track. This can also be used for label removing, cleaning parts (ie. anything that had oil touch it), and starting good quality fires. It won't harm plastic, resin or styrene. Here are the three sizes that come from my good man from the east. Get them! :rose:

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 7 years ago

      Anonymous

    • 9 Essential Car Adhesives The 9 Essential Car Adhesives: All but 2 of these you might just already have in your garage - and if you do - make good use of them. As always, there may be better or worse things which you can use but these are what I recommend and use myself on any car I blueprint or blackprint for R32 racing. There are 9 adhesives or 'connecting' helpers which I consider essential and which are available at most local retailers and hobby shops in Mississauga. Here they are: 1) Gorilla Super Glue - I was a big believer in Black Max but at just $8 per bottle I was a convert. My new favourite super glue is flexible yet permanent and fills gaps well. Easily dispensed on a clean scrap of paper and applied using a toothpick I use this adhesive for gluing plastic wheels to axles, bushings to chassis (or slot.it bushings within the pod bushing holders), bushing filling (to prevent axle slop on stock classes) and when initially positioning body posts. On occasion I also use this to reinforce the outer edges of tires to the wheels in our fastest classes if the tire begins to pull away from the wheel. Do not use this near clear plastic because it will 'haze' the clear plastic. If you need to remove a part later apply Acetone (or nail polish) carefully with a Q-tip until the glue dissolves. The nose and cap are well designed, durable and easy to maintain which means you will use up all the glue before tossing it. 2) Gorilla White Urethane Glue - The regular formula is fine but I've switched to the white urethane glue which is supposed to dry faster and doesn't need a 'wet' mate surface - it does expand like the original so use it sparingly. I apply this to my wheels (again using a toothpick) to glue all of my tires to the rim. Apply it VERY SPARINGLY but make sure you fully coat the entire surface. Keep some bent axles for this purpose and mark them - they are great to use when gluing the tires... also make sure that the tire is 'true' before setting it aside to dry (not wobbling on the wheel). Others in our group use only super glue or nail polish to glue their tires - it is a matter of preference. The dispenser on the smallest size (pictured) is also very good and easy to keep clean but chances are the glue will go off before you use it all up so don't waste your money on a larger size. 3) Gorilla Clear Epoxy - The best way to fix a windshield is with a clear epoxy and this is what I prefer to use - but it is permanent so make sure the part fits first. It doesn't haze clear plastic and it is also great for fixing and reinforcing LEDs to/behind lenses. I also use this to reinforce or glue piano wire to chassis (where permitted). It can also be used for permanently fixing body posts but this is not my preferred adhesive for that purpose. Mix and apply with a toothpick. 4) J-B-Weld - To fix a crack or fill a gap or to strengthen a chassis nothing beats JB. I use this to glue or 'fix' most of my pods in position. I also use this liberally to permanently fix body posts after they are positioned using super glue. Again, mix and apply with a toothpick. Remember that this epoxy contains iron filings and therefore it will 'pool' or be drawn to magnets if any are close by - so don't use this near any magnet (unless you wish to). Since this dries overnight leave this for last. 5) Hot Glue (Sticks) - I am not the expert on hot glue nor do I really enjoy using it but it is relatively easy to use, easy to remove and has some resiliance which makes it a perfect gap filler, adhesive for pods and motors, and chassis/pod stiffener. You can glue just about anything to anything using hot glue, even if the pieces are miles apart. I use it to reinforce a glued motor to the pod or chassis along the 'sides' of the motor on faster classes since there are usually gaps which the more viscous adhesives cannot bridge. It also can be used to reinforce the gaps between the motor and bushing upright(s) on Group 5 motor pods. 6) Household/Automotive Clear GOOP - I use this to fix my motors in 'snap in' plastic chassis on both the drive and endbell (front and rear) sides which are in tight contact with the motor mounts. To remove a motor which is glued this way simply use a sharp X-acto to 'cut' the adhesive along the joints and after removing the motor just peel off the adhesive from the motor and from the chassis. A black coloured version (automotive version) can be used to coat LEDs after they are fixed in place to ensure durability and prevent light bleed, fix wires in place and fill gaps or reinforce interior components or trays where needed. It is also useful for fixing mirrors or other body components which may be subject to abuse... 7) Micromark Same Stuff Plastic Welder - I use this to repair or fix plastic/styrene bodies and all body components, including interior trays. This does not however work with the resin parts that I cast. Be careful since this will eat any painted finish and runs like crazy but it will fix any broken plastic piece to near original condition. I like the Micromark stuff since it comes with an applicator brush unlike Tenax or some others. 8) Micro Krystal Klear - Similar to a white glue on steriods this is great for fiddly windscreens and to fill or fix imperfect windscreen/window application borders. I also use this stuff to fill in body post holes when chassis screws do not stay in place and to fix inserts inside aluminium wheels. [BTW - never use Loctite on body posts - it eats the plastic.] 9) Solder - Your typical flux (282) filled electronic solder 63/37 to fix motor wires (preferrably silicone shielded) to motor leads - apply to the wire and to the motor leads separately then join with more heat... I use an acid flux with solder to fix no. 2 DuBro steel washers to solid steel axles for my independent axle set up but that is a topic for another subforum... Furthermore, not mentioned here are scenic adhesives (for which I use four: LePages White Glue, Super 77, Hydrocal and double sided adhesive tape) or fixing agents for decals (Krylon Crystal Klear or Matte Finish) and decal application helpers (Micro Set & Micro Sol)... Hope this helps a little... Cheers! :good:

      Started by: Arthur

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

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