Topic Tag: Slot cars

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Viewing 7 topics - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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    • 59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser".

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • D’Art inserts in Slot.It wheels made easy I have some regular Slot.It wheels and wanted to install a specific D'Art insert that's only supposed to fit a standard RS-Slot wheel. I bought a package of standard Slot.It inserts and gently sanded down the spokes to pop out the center and expose the outer ring by itself. It was easy to press the D'Art insert into the ring. I could not get the inserts out of the rings once they were pressed in. I'll use a drop of glue to make sure they don't move. I used 150-grit sand paper. It took 15-minutes of sanding by hand to get the spokes out from the outer rings. The belt sander would have disolved/melted the inserts in seconds. Slow is sometimes better. Now anyone can install just about any standard 14mm D'Art insert in almost any 15"-inch Slot.It wheel. The sky is the limit. Thanks for looking, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • D'Art Porsche 550 Spyder I painted this car last July. The body should be safe to handle by now. Someone suggested I expand my build threads so others can learn how to duplicate my mistakes. Careful what you wish for.   I measured the wheelbase and mapped out the chassis. Then I installed axle spacers on all 4-corners to help figure out the track width as well as center the chassis to the body when I glue in the body posts. I will remove the rear axle spacers after cutting the axles to length on final assembly. The front axle spacers remain in place to keep the independent wheels centered. 5mm spacing per corner was just right for this combination of parts. The chassis lays down nicely in the body. The tires are touching the inside of the top of the fenders at this point. But avoid the sides of the fenders. The build is self-slamming. I used to scratch my head on how to figure out the length of the posts. Toothpicks are a handy measuring device. I'm looking forward to seeing this car run. This will be the lowest car I've ever built. If this car runs half as good as the RS61? It will be a blast to drive! :yahoo:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Independent front wheels One of the first lessons Art showed me was how to make independent front wheels. Thank you very kindly Art. I was asked to pass it on. You can buy independent front axles. But it's far too easy to make your own. The ingredients are as follows: Professor Motor axle blanks, Dubro #2 flat washers (hobby store), soldering iron, Lucky Bob's acid flux, drill, file, and fine rosin-core solder. I polish both sides of the washer with 2000-grit paper to remove burrs or dirt. Then I install the axle in the drill press and press the washer on (flat side to the wheel). Some fall off so I discard those. Others won't go on so I discard those as well. You'll lose about two out of ten washers. You can also use a small hammer and your eye. However, the washer may not be as true as a drill press. I touch the a little solder to the iron and gently dab it onto the washer without disturbing it. I'm not concerned about the blob of solder on the end of the washer. You'll see why shortly. Then I install the axle in a drill. Spin it up and use a file to chew away the extra solder that isn't needed. I gently file all three sides of the washer to make it very smooth. Let the drill do the work. Nice little pile of lead left on the file and work bench. As true as my drill press can get it, and ready to use. Not to mention as thin as the washer itself. Takes about 10-minutes.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 4 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • 70 TA Camaro colour change I have a blue Z28 Camaro for stock TA class. There are several of the exact same colour and number. It was time to create Ken's red zed. It took 2-coats of paint over 2-days to cover the dark blue. I could not avoid orange-peel on the roof. More paint would have created runs and the rest of the car was too nice to ruin. I'll try buffing the roof.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Drive shaft removal made easy With the possibility of front motor classes in the future. I took the time to figure out how to remove them without damaging the spring. I have a Monogram, and Scalex motor/drive to experiment with. I started out with a drop of oil on the end of the spring I wanted to remove. I used a drill to hold the back of the Monogram motor shaft (had to remove the bell because the shaft was cut). Then took light duty, tapered pliers with no teeth. Slipped the pliers onto the motor side of the spring until it locked. I started the drill in reverse and the spring backed off and fell to the work bench in under 2-seconds. It only took 2-fingers of pressure. The drive shaft came off with no damage or distortion to the spring. And no damage to the motor shaft. So now I have a long style drive shaft ready for a future build. But I had to throw away the Monogram motor (no great loss). Next is the Scalex motor and drive shaft out of the Maserati 250F. It would be nice to save both the drive shaft and new motor for 2-other cars. Luckily the Scalex motor had enough motor shaft for the drill chuck. After a drop of oil and a quick twist of the drill. It too fell to the work bench in a flash. Resistance is futile. ;-) I believe the smooth surface of the small hobby pliers helped prevent damage. They did the job perfectly. The right tool for the right job is almost priceless. I now have 2-different lengths of drive shafts for front motor drive, and a new 18k Scalex motor in my parts inventory. :yahoo: Thank you very kindly, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

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Viewing 7 topics - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)