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    • R32 XLIII @ The Ring – November 29, 2021 (7pm) R32 XLIII November 29, 2021 (7pm) Race Results Classic Stock Car (CSC): #32 - 69 Laps (6.829 ext.); #29 - 69 (16.982); #42 - 66 (17.725); #30 - 62 (8.859); #11 - 61 (9.669); #41 - 61 (9.696). 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP): #7 - 82 Laps (10.753 ext.); #36 - 81 (6.733); #12 - 77 (16.056); #14 - 71 (11.900); #8 - 70 (2.154). 1970's Grand Prix (70GP): #17 - 86 Laps (27.846 ext.); #34 - 85 (12.382); #19 - 80 (24.188); #3 - 76 (16.282); #3 - 75 (2.132); #10 - 75 (8.613); #11 - 75 (12.132). CANAM (CA): #59 - 87 Laps (5.756 ext.); #47 - 85 (6.080); #102 - 83 (15.176); #33 - 81 (16.105); #12 - 80 (11.254); #19 - 80 (14.328). Cheers to everyone who participated! Great racing with very close duels in each field!!!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • 1:32 DArt Mirage BRM M2 Body Kit 1969 Mirage BRM M2 1:32 Body Kit by DArt A stunning endurance prototype from 1969 - the perfect racing sister to the Ferrari 312P. This hand made DArt body kit is based on the original Aurora release. Molded in lightweight and resilient white plastic this one piece shell with clear plastic windscreen and separate clear headlamp lenses is perfect for any sidewinder, anglewinder or inline application. The shell alone is 142mm long x 68mm wide and weighs in at approximately 20.0 grams including windscreen and lenses. The wheelbase is approximately 75.0mm. This Mirage BRM M2 body kit includes the following pieces: One lightweight plastic body; Large clear plastic windscreen and side windows; One pair of clear headlight lenses; Pilot (shoulders, arms and head) with steering wheel and black foam 'card'; and DArt medium size 11.44mm 4506SP3KO plastic wheel inserts (4) with adapter rings for Slot.It wheels (4). No decals are provided. A limited run of 10 will be available for pickup at the Group 25 model show this Sunday March 3, 2024 or thereafter from DArt. Cost at the show (and thereafter) is $65. Order and reserve yours online now for $55 and save $10! Free pickup on Sunday at the show or email DArt to arrange another convenient pick up option. For those not local select the mailing option and your kit will be mailed next Monday (postage added at checkout). Order Now!

      Started by: Arthur in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Two Lane Blacktop-inspired ’55 Chevy Hey guys, I haven't raced with the group for a while. Having been invited back into the fold there were a few classes that I need to build cars for. One of which is Hot Rods. During the pandemic I ended up ordering a few movies to pass the time - one of which was Two Lane Blacktop. I had never seen it before, and it's really worth a watch. It's French New Wave meets hot rods in the best possible way. The hero car of the film is a '55 Chevy driven by "The Driver" (musician James Taylor), and worked on by "The Mechanic" (Beach Boys drummer Dennis Wilson). They travel from town to town with The Girl (Laurie Bird) engaging in street races and trying to hustle a few bucks along the way. Eventually the meet up with "G.T.O" (Warren Oates - I'll let you guess what he drives) who challenges them to a race to Washington D. C. - the winner taking the loser's car. I'm a big fan of movie cars, so after seeing this movie I set out to find myself a '55 Chevy body. I was lucky to find a Monogram Snap-Tite kit in 1/32 scale on ePay. Hot Rod rules call for the BWA FF050 slim can in an inline configuration with skinny wheels. Being a fan of the Slot.it HRS2 chassis I was able to source an FF050 motor pod on Shapeways. With all the bits and pieces in hand, it was time to hit the spray booth aka the level 3 stairwell vestibule in my condo's parking structure. Here's what I ended up with: The hood scoop is fabricated out of Evergreen sheet styrene. Driver is a vac-formed interior from Slot Car Corner. I went with the slammed stance since that's what it takes to get the CG down low. I opted for the side pipes because - why not? Anyhow, we'll see how well it runs at the next Hot Rod race. See you guys then! - DrV

      Started by: Avatar photoDrVanski in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Corvair progress, slowly…. Getting there,  I know, I know, do posts 1st, aesthetics last....well, perhaps a slow learner.....I had an opportunity for a few (rare) hours, so decided I would graphic my Corvair kit. All all old homemade decals(work well on white/silver bodies)Awaiting the chassis setup/motor/gears/wheels etc(KRZ chassis, thanks KRZ!)   Made a little 'scoop too'      

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that competed in a state or club sanctioned road, rally, endurance race or a grand prix between the years 1900 through to 1939 anywhere in the world; Low Power BWMS050 Motor Only; Any Inline Chassis; Wheels: Must not exceed 16.5 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in width; Tires: DArt urethane club series (DA0210 recommended). Tires must not exceed 23 mm in diameter; and Maximum Width: 51mm (actually 50.8 mm – excluding fenders or insert detail which may extend beyond).

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged). Motor: BWNC1 Chassis: Any in any configuration Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D7 (black or white walls) strongly recommended]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Indy Roadster (IR) Indy Roadster (IR) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any true, front engined roadster that tested, registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards. Eligible Liveries: Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced are allowed. Motor: BWMS050. Chassis: Any inline front motor configuration where the complete motor 'can' is forward of the base of the windscreen. The motor may be offset. The motor shaft extension may use additional bushings/bearings and be directly attached to the motor shaft with any flexible coupling (such as a spring or soft tubing) or be offset using any gearing. Minimum Weight: 80g Maximum Overall Width: 54mm Tires: Any sized DArt Club Series urethane tires with a reasonable scale appearance. [DArt D7.5 strongly recommended]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • 1960’s 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) 1966-1969 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a 3.0L Grand Prix car which competed from 1966 through 1969 Chassis: Any inline chassis Motor: Scalextric FF050 as provided in current releases of Scalextric brand cars Wheels – maximum 14mm diameter Tires - Any DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 12mm; and Front maximum width of 7mm; Maximum overall width of 60mm

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • CANAM (CA) CAN AM (CA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a Can Am car which ran at two sanctioned CAN AM races at different tracks in any year between 1966 through 1974 (coupes excluded) Rear Wheels: minimum 14mm in diameter Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire (NC0101 and D11 recommended, D13 STRONGLY recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Modern F1 (F1) Modern F1 (F1) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any 'stock' modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model Motor - must be a 'stock' Scalextric S-can or slim motor - whichever came with the model Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm Optional Modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used - rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels Rear Tires - any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire Front Tires - 'stock' or any DArt 'Club' series urethane replacement tire Rear Axle - may be replaced by a solid axle Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Weight - may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body - no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only) Gearing - stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracing

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body modern (1995 or newer) era model that competed at Le Mans regardless of designation or class Rear Wheels: Minimum 14mm diameter (or larger) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • 1970’s Grand Prix (70GP) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed from 1970 through 1980; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: Scalextric FF050 or Fly / Flyslot FF050 as provided in current releases by these manufacturers; Tires - Any size DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 16mm; and Front maximum width of 10mm; Maximum overall width is 68.5mm.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any model with or without fenders; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: BWMS050; Tires: Any size DArt Club Series urethane tire (ie. SC0120 (rear) & SC0120F (front) recommended); Maximum width of front and rear rolling assemblies (track) is 50.8mm but bodies/fenders may be wider; and At least one racing number.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3.0L LeMans (3LM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body open cockpit prototype that competed between 1972 through 1977 in an endurance race such as LeMans (as raced with headlights) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (NC0101 or D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Classic LeMans (CLM) Classic LeMans (CLM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric, Fly and SRC sidewinder 'Prototype' models which competed at Le Mans between 1965 through 1971 Motor - 'Stock' Scalextric, Fly, SRC or equivalent (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (FL0201 or NC0101 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Minimum overall weight of 80g Optional modifications: Wheels - front and back may be replaced with 14mm wheels - Inserts or wheel detail to match the original car Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Axles & Front Pins - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning' Gearing - stock gears may be replaced with any 11T pinion and any 36T crown

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Trans Am (TA) Trans Am (TA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Sidewinder Scalextric and Pioneer Trans Am models Motor: ‘Stock’ Pioneer or Scalextric (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (SC0801 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series (SC0801F Urethane Tires recommended) Minimum overall weight of 85g Optional modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide together with any guide adapter Wheels - front and back may be replaced by any 14mm aluminium wheel. Inserts are to be period correct and resemble original car Axles - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning') Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Gearing - any 36T spur gear may be used together with any manufacturer 11T pinion

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • NASCAR (NC) NASCAR (NC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric brand Sidewinder NASCAR (Car of Yesterday or Car of Tomorrow); Stock parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series SC0705 Urethane Tires; Front Tires: Stock Front Tires or DArt Club Series SC0705 urethane tires.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Auto Union Type D – Dart Kit For this build, I have used the recently released Dart kit of the Auto Union Type D.  As usual, the quality of the kit is second to none and it comes with two driver busts and seat options, large wired inserts and a long styrene tube with two brass push in threaded inserts to be installed as body posts where needed. I decided to mate the body with an aluminium chassis (KRZ Design) that I made specifically for this model.  The BWA 14k ff motor is glued onto the chassis with 5 minute epoxy.  I decided to use wired wheels that were purchased from Pendle. You will note that there is the appearance of significant tire degradation to the front wheels on this model-it wasn't due to the photo taken after a race.  I'll be replacing these rubber tires that came with the wheels with Dart urethane that will be trued to the same size. The model as shown in the photos includes the smaller half bust that came with the kit but it is evident that this option requires a thick seat cushion otherwise the driver can barely see over the hood.  I'll be replacing the half bust with a modified full body to achieve the most realistic result. The model runs very well, and is competitive, with my Auto Union Type C and Mercedes Benz W125.  Based on early test results, this type D outpaces the other two. A new entry for the next Coppa D PGP+ race with Tazio Nuvolari behind the wheel to join Bernd Rosemeyer in the type C and Rudolf Caracciola in the W125. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 1936 Auto Union Type C – #4 Bernd Rosemeyer This is a PGP+ class eligible model for our Pre War Coppa D'oro series. The main restrictions for this class (apart from the mandated motor) are a maximum track of 50.8mm (excluding inserts which may extend beyond) and maximum tire diameter of 23mm. Of course all tires must be DArt club series urethanes and wheels cannot exceed 16.5mm in diameter nor be wider than 5.5mm... so armed with that info we can begin building something eligible...The basis for this build was the DArt Auto Union C Type body kit with a few modifications and upgrades. As always I begin with the wheels which I modified by turning down a set of 4 DArt DA16x9XL alloy wheels. I carefully mounted 4 DA0210 club series tires using clear Gorilla Glue after scuffing the outer rim surface and let them dry overnight before truing with my Hudy. Using the truer I also narrowed the front tires using a sharp Xacto knife. After sorting the overall tire diameters I gathered some small bushings and the rest of the parts needed including the low power BWMS050 motor with a 1.5mm 10T pinion. Initially I also opted for an aftermarket 23T crown gear but then went with the orange 25T gear instead after initial testing. I opted for a simple torsion chassis using a combination of piano wire and brass. The front end would use stub axles made from piano wire with DuBro No2 steel washers soldered on one end. Because the washers were too large in diameter they needed to be ground down to fit within my front axle braces. I also fabricated the motor mount and guide sleeve. After sanding all of the parts I soldered the rear end together. Then I made the front section. The front and rear sections are only held together with piano wire tabs that slide inside a small brass tube. By gently pulling them apart (and out of the tube) you can separate the front and rear halves of the chassis which allows for convenient cleaning and maintenance. The wire tension is enough to hold it in place. Before final re-assembly I made sure to clean any flux residue before applying a blackening treatment to all of the chassis parts using a disposable dollar store brush. Make sure you are happy with the chassis - because after you apply the blackening chemical treatment to the steel you won't be able to solder anything to it. While the steel does turn black the brass is more stubborn and will only give you an antique look at best - but I still prefer this to painting anyday - and I prefer to take away the shine of brass (or steel) especially on exposed parts that don't reflect the real thing. I painted the wire wheel inserts that came with the kit and after final assembly I glued them in place using white glue. The assembled chassis weighs in at 45.7g.. I wanted to use as much of a complete pilot and interior so I modified the original body by opening up the cockpit. I also extended the cockpit slightly by removing material up to the recess for the original windscreen (which I would replace with a more detailed windscreen from the DArt Type D body kit).The painted and washed body shell (without interior and exterior detail) now weighs 9.6g. Decals which I printed on clear Testor's decal sheeting were applied. I also used Micro Mark decals for the front grill detail. Then I made firewalls which could be glued in place using thin styrene sheeting. Other upgraded parts included a pilot figure, head, steering wheel, shifter and interior side panels from the DArt D Type body kit, plus DArt button radiator cap and DArt fuel cap. After painting the body silver I added a black wash using Tamiya flat black acrylic paint diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner to bring out more detail where I wanted it. If using the acrylic thinner (which is alcohol based) only apply carefully where you want it and let it pool and dry to give the desired effect. Quickly wick away any wash that creeps where you don't want it since the longer it remains the harder it will be to clean away. Once it is dry it is impossible to remove easily - you'll need to polish it out then. I would do the interior first. I would use clear 5 minute epoxy to fix everything in place, starting with the firewalls. Then came the seat back (minus head rest) and dashboard. While that dried I removed the lower portion of the pilot's legs and sanded away the underside of his thighs to give me as much clearance underneath as possible. Luckily I did not need to shrink his torso. Once satisfied with the fit (and clearance) of the torso/legs I glued the pilot arms to the torso and placed the steering wheel in his hands and let dry. [I trimmed the steering wheel shaft since I never fix the steering wheel to the dashboard - I always leave it in the pilot's hands - which I find much easier to work with.] Then I glued the pilot's body to the seat and let that dry. Then the side panels were fixed in place and finally the shifter was added. The interior was done. I could add a styrene piece underneath his legs to finish the interior but I'll leave that alone for now. [Turns out the blackened chassis works nicely underneath so I decided to not bother adding a floor.] Exterior details were then added. The windscreen was second last - after hand drilling a pair of holes to fix it in place. Finally a solid aluminium wire was added to the rear of the body through another small hole hand drilled. The completed body now weighs 12.9g. Not bad!Add two screws and four urethane washers (2 for some body float and 2 underneath the head of each screw (to prevent the screws from backing out) and our completed model weighs in at 59 g.The original crown gear performed just fine when the chassis alone was tested (before the body was completed) but as fate would have it would fail on the first lap in its debut... but replaced and tested the model is very quick and this chassis shows lots of promise for 2022.Happy to answer any questions. If you would like to upgrade any parts on your C Type (like I did) drop me a line... Cheers! [foogallery id="20971"]

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJohnnySlots

    • Introduction to The Ring – The Numbers The Ring Mississauga, Ontario, Canada This version of The Ring is the fifth custom routed three lane wood track that I've built for myself. Briefly, the Ring is a private three lane custom routed scale model slot car race track occupying a footprint of approximately 22' x 7'. The track surface is constructed from 3/8" mdf routed using a 1/8" flat bit sunk 1/4" deep. The track 'floats' on open grid bench work and is fully scenerized using a cloth soaked hydrocal hard shell base over cardboard strips. There are 1/8" borders raised an average of 1 1/4" high above the track surface. The three lanes are spaced 3 1/2" apart but for the single squeeze where spacing drops to just 1". Lane lengths are very close (green=72' 2 3/4", yellow=72' 3", red=72' 2 7/8") and the number of left and right  turns are identical. Outside gutters are at least 6". Three overpasses provide a minimum clearance of 3 3/4", enough for Fly Euro Trucks. Total track surface elevation change is just 7" but appears greater. Average race surface height from the floor is 2' 9". The track was painted using a standard roller and mid range flat latex paint. Dollar store acrylic paints were used to paint the 'patches', skid marks, lines and race driver tributes. Wired positive, this track was 'taped' using Venture Tape Master Foil Plus 7/32" width and .038mm thick (red core) part no. 1750. Four soldered 'power taps' ensure continuous and uninterrupted power throughout from a Pyramid 30A adjustable power supply. Trackmate  hardware and SlotTrak software provide the timing while Trackmate driver stations ensure easy controller hookup via alligator clips or banana plugs. As racing is a priority at this track racer's sight lines and ease of marshaling were kept in mind during the construction of this track. Model railroading inspired the scenic 'dimension'. But for a handful of recognizable items (grid rats and pit accessories, half tires, guardrails, signage posts and 7 'Kleinbahn' HO light posts) everything is scratch built from wood or styrene or cast from either plastic, resin or urethane. All but 5 trees are hand made, including various birches, aspens & hemlocks. Don't overlook what raw scenic materials you can find in your local green belt or at the bottom of a Muskoka lake... Pictures and a blurb on how some of these scenic items were created may make it here. As always, time will tell.

      Started by: Arthur in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 32 Ford seda hot rod New to this forum. Usually build sports cars but in recent years have delved into domestic hot rods. Had the opportunity to build starting with a resin copy of the old 1/32 Aurora 32 Ford Ski-Doo body. Built a simple ladder chassis with .055" piano wire, .064" brass strip and a JK F1 motor bracket. Power's a Slot It flat can with a Slot It pinion and Plafit crown gear (3mm).  Went with a 3mm rear axle as the hot rod rims I had were for that size axle. Fronts are RS Slot Racing rims with tires of unknown origin. Came out well with quite a raked stance. Runs pretty good in a straight line but I really prefer cars that can handle the corners. Dan

      Started by: Anonymous in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Figures132 I took the liberty to combine these previously posted pics for Figures132 on behalf of Michael Dark. You may have taken the time to notice a few photographers around the Ring courtesy Bob... Should you be interested in any of these please contact Michael directly. I'll leave it to him to reply with his preferred link should he wish to fulfill any orders... in the past he has provided both unpainted and painted versions... not cheap but well worth every cent!

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Scenerize It

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    • 5 years ago

      Anonymous

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