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    • Classic Era Challenge II (1966 – 1971) – March 24, 2018 @ MVL After some time away from the Molto VeLoce Circuit located in Oakville ON Scratch32 and R32 will be returning to this prestigious exotic car location and their 4 lane custom routed slot car track by DArt. The first event tentatively scheduled for MVL will be the second round of the ‘R32 Classic Era Challenge’ on Saturday March 24, 2018 at 11am. [This was originally scheduled for March 17 but scheduling issues required a change to March 24.] Orange dot tires are mandatory – and the rules remain as before: 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked orange dot Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Our assigned racing number list so far: [table id=6 /] Everyone who wishes to participate on Saturday March 24, 2018 must log in and register below regardless of whether or not they already have their assigned racing numbers (limit of 3). Those that do not have a scratch32 account or need to acquire their orange dot tires and/or racing numbers must contact me as soon as possible by email at: [email protected] [seatt-form event_id=15]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 22
    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • Classic Era Challenge Cup V (1966-1971) Gentlemen, it is time once again for the fifth edition of our Classic Era Challenge Cup (1966 – 1971) now scheduled for Saturday, February 2, 2019 @ Molto VeLoce (MVL). The rules remain the same. Mandatory orange dot DArt club urethane tires on the rear wheels AND hard plastic body that raced in a period endurance race with any period fantasy livery ARE REQUIRED. The rest is up to you… any material… RTR or scratch… Simple Rules & Guidelines v1.0 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. So, you may qualify up to three models but must choose one to race. Remember to use your assigned numbers for those models you wish to qualify. Timed practice will start at 10:00am… followed by qualifying and then the race. Here is our current list of registered numbers which will be updated in real time: [table id=6 /]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 6
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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • Classic Era Challenge IV (1966-1971) – October 27, 2018 Gentlemen, it is time once again for the fourth edition of our Classic Era Challenge Cup (1966 - 1971) this Saturday, October 27, 2018 @ Molto VeLoce (MVL). The rules remain the same. Mandatory orange dot DArt club urethane tires on the rear wheels AND hard plastic body that raced in a period endurance race with any period fantasy livery ARE REQUIRED. The rest is up to you... any material... RTR or scratch... Simple Rules & Guidelines v1.0 – January, 2018 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. So, you may qualify up to three models but must choose one to race. Remember to use your assigned numbers for those models you wish to qualify. Timed practice will start at 10:00am... followed by qualifying and then the race. Here is our list of registered numbers: [table id=6 /] To register: [seatt-form event_id=31] If you have any questions please ask within this thread... Good Luck! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 11
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • R32 @ Spa Lyons FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, February 25, 2023 @ Spa Lyons Classes: 1950's & 1960's Endurance Sportscars (50SP & 60SP) Classic LeMans (CLM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Three marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order 1950's & 1960's Endurance Sportscars: Classic LeMans: 3.0L LeMans: 1970's Grand Prix: [foogallery id="37419"]  

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: R32

    • 6
    • 6
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Modern F1 class Thoughts have recently been exchanged at the last race about the modern F1 class. Many intersting points were made. I bought a Scalex modern F1 last Thursday night. It hit the floor twice on Saturday, and is now broken. The reason I bought it was because my other car sucks and is in need of a total rebuild. Now I have two Scalex cars in need of major repairs. I looked at Electric Dreams to see what a new Scalex car retails for. The average is $100 in US funds. There's an one ugly one in the bunch for $65 US. Many are as high as $129 to $149 just for an ordinary F1 car. Here's the car I bought last Thursday. It's available at Electric Dreams for $129 US funds.   This car below is also $129 in US funds.   While on the same site, I checked out Policar modern F1's. They start at $54.95 US for a generic coloured car.   A fully decorated car like the one below goes as high as $64.95 USD. Not all that expensive. Instead of changing everything at once and pushing everyone into totally changing cars for this class. Can we add the Policar brand to the modern F1 class? If the Policar F1 is a lot cheaper, readily available, and a slightly better platform. Everyone should have no trouble phasing out the Scalex cars on their own over time. If someone is fully dedicated to their Scalex car, and talented at tuning them. Why not keep them going too? Just some food for thought since there were a few broken F1 cars last Saturday. I'm not looking forward to fixing either of my Scalex F1's. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32

    • 5
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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Chassis Question Guy's Question on 50's era Sports Cars class is it plastic only chassis or scratch and plastic allowed? Also is the 60's era chassis rules the same. Joe

      Started by: Avatar photoJoe in: R32

    • 2
    • 1
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Los Angeles Slot Car Museum Greetings: I was looking at Google News and noticed a story (or paid advertisement?) in Motor Trend about the LASCM.    Thinking about my Revell Lang Cooper, Gar Vic, and Dynamic Chassis slot cars buried in a dump somewhere makes me ask "WHAT WAS I THINKING?" https://www.motortrend.com/features/los-angeles-slot-car-museum-profile

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 7
    • 6
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: Anonymous in: Drivers of the Past

    • 11
    • 11
    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts.  Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair.  Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes.  Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires.  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 7
    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Avoiding dust in paint This is just about my bad experiences with dust. Not how to apply paint. There's no bigger dissapointment than leaving your paint almost perfect with the last wave of the spray can and coming back to... fresh paint covered with dust or pet hair. I had to sit back and think of the many possible reasons that could affect the final finish. Any one alone could easily ruin a paint-job. 1) Dog 2) Cat 3) Shop tools (bandsaw, belt sander) 4) Forced air heat/AC 5) My wife doing things around the house such as laundry 6) My own clothes I created a system to try and combat every possible angle I could think of. This is starting out with a body that's already prepared for paint. The basement kitchen fan is used to evacuate the fumes. The entire area around and behind the oven-top is lined with cardboard and black garbage bags. Now I can explain a process that seems to work for this household. 1) I start the basement kitchen fan around 10PM. Throw a paint can on a stirring device. Then go upstairs closing the door behind me to leave the basement undisturbed until midnight (No pets allowed). The kitchen fan has time to remove ambient dust around the paint area. 2) I turn the heat/AC off around 11PM. 3) At around midnight the rest of the house goes to bed and I slowly and carefully make my way to basement closing the door behind me to keep the pets upstairs. I walk very slowly to prevent stirring dust up from the floor. 4) I head to the landry room first to put on a fresh T-shirt and jeans. Pet hair is the worst! 5) I give the body a fresh wash. Then rinse in filtered water to avoid residue. Dry the body with a dust-free towel. It's ready for paint. 6) Heat the can that's been stirring for the last 2-hours in hot water for 2-minutes. It's ready to paint. I paint the body with 4-coats using a 1-minute timer between coats. After 4-minutes of painting I slowly walk back upstairs, close the basement door, and watch TV for an hour. After an hour I turn the heat/AC back on and go check the paint. Hopefully I go to bed with a smile. I installed exhaust outlets on my belt sander and bandsaw that fit the shop-vac to help keep the residual shop dust down. But prefer not to cut or sand anything the day I paint a body. I wish everyone the best of luck in finding your own way to paint without that dreaded dust thing. :good:  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Interesting finds at the Slot Car show yesterday I'm looking at car kits in a different way now that I'm considering converting these into slot-cars. I will try and avoid the really narrow or heavy ones from now on. Not sure wich one of these will eventually make the grade and move up to the build table. You can't make everything. Can you? :wacko: 1965 Barracuda - lightweight resin body = 14g. Track width: Rear = 52mm. Front = 50mm. 1968 GTO - body weight 21g. Track width: R = 56mm. F = 55mm 1961 E-type Jaguar - body weight = 9g. Track width: R = 46mm. F = 47mm 1963 Studebaker Avanti - body weight = 12g. Track width: R = 49mm. F = 48mm.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 2
    • 2
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking.   Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E   Thanks to Art for his great photos!    

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoJoe

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Viewing 22 topics - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)