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Happy New Year! Wishing everyone all the best for 2021! :yahoo:
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in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!
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- 3 years ago
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Body posts The 4-40 brass inserts are easy to install. Just set them on a hard surface, flat side down. Cut the Evergreen tubing a bit longer than required. Then use a small hammer to tap the plastic over the insert until the plastic bottoms out. The chassis needs to be partially assembled to the point of having the wheels spaced to fit snugly inside the body. This photo shows the body sitting on the tires without body posts. Then install the body posts directly to the chassis without washers of any sort. Test the body fit and trim the posts little by little until you like how the body sits. I often trim the posts until the body sits on the tires again. Then add the washers after for a close fit. It's the only way to slam a car. The photo below shows the body posts trimmed to size. The next step is to prepare the body for the posts. I scuff/scrape/scratch up the area where the epoxy will be applied with a knife. While the posts are still mounted to the chassis. I apply epoxy to the inside of the body, and a little to the top of the body posts and set the body on the chassis. For me, the tires resting on the body help keep the body level. You can add equal spacers under both rocker panels if you don't want to slam your car close to the track. Here are the body posts after being epoxied in place. The chassis can be completed for final assembly to the body. The steel and urethane washers have been added. The body sits very close to the tires, and we have body float. But the tires don't rub. :good: A small strip of masking tape is stuck under the chassis to prevent the body screws from backing out. Urethane washers on both sides aren't enough. They all need tape. You'll see it on all my builds. I found the best way to assemble the chassis to the body is... Screw through the chassis first, steel washer next, then urethane washer, to the body post. Lightly snug the screw until it allows the body to wobble ever so slightly. It may loosen up after the first race and require re-adjusting. It should then be good for many races. The urethane washers usually keep the screws and steel washers in place while chassis and body are disassembled for whatever reason. My first car is still on it's first set of urethane washers and going strong. Good old Fred Steinbroner in the funny blue Tudor. These urethane washers last a super looooong time. :good:
Started by:
in: Assembly Tips
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- 3 years ago
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Getting started Everyone has different gifts and talents. No one has a monopoly on good ideas. Please feel free to send me an email with your questions, concerns, or suggestions. I will try and implement them into this forum. [email protected] Thanks a million! Ken
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in: Assembly Tips
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- 3 years ago
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Thanks a million to everyone at Scratch32! I can't thank Art enough for creating this section, as well as the opportunity to offer aluminum chassis's here on the Scratch32 site. Art has been extremely helpful along the way. Many lessons and debates on building cars have taken place that helped set this in motion. I would also like to thank Chris Walker for the build lessons and pointers that gave me more understanding about good scratch building. I would also like to thank JMSracer for being my first customer. 10 times in a row now? :good: The idea being these are still for the scratch-builder. The benefits of an aluminum chassis are: 1) This saves a lot of time in getting a car to the point of final assembly. 2) The chassis is as accurate and square as digital equipment can make. 3) Bushings or bearings can easily be installed without solder. 4) The handling characteristics are track proven. 5) This can help someone get started in scratch-building. Thanks a million to the entire S32 club for helping me learn so much in such a short time! Note: An aluminum chassis with a body you painted counts as scratch-built car in Scratch32 rules.
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in: KRZ Custom Chassis
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- 3 years ago
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Tail lights, turn signals, and back up lights I'm still learning much as a model builder and thought I might share some of my mistakes along the way. I used to use straight bright red to paint tail lights. It took a few cars to figure out that clear red looks much better. The clear lens in the bumper was painted from behind. The bullets painted over top. Both came out better than expected. Turn signals were also giving me grief until someone at Group-25 mentioned that "turn signal amber metallic" was avalaible. For back up lights and white turn signals. Gloss white seems to work okay. Note the plain red paint on the Failane tail light. That was painted before I found the clear red. Such is life. :unsure: If you have something to add or share. Please do! :good:
Started by:
in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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1955 Belgian Grand Prix and 1966 Belgian Grand Prix Reminiscent of days gone bye See attached short 30 minute film of the 1955 Belgian Grand Prix where Fangio and Stirling Moss finish first and second for the Mercedes team. A brilliant film highlighting 1950's front motor GP cars and the old SPA track. The fans are all wearing their Sunday best. Terrific! https://youtu.be/7exBtOgys7I A 4 minute clip of the Belgian Grand Prix eleven years later. The race begins 1.5 minutes in-featured first is a fabulous pre-race onboard lap with sound. AMAZING cinematography and shots from ground level in the thick of the race that was filmed by Phill Hill's camera car and also from the air in a helicopter which zooms into a side pan of the #6 car racing through the straights at top speed. The sound cuts out after the first 1.5 minutes but the cinematography is incredible, this is a must see. Due to a flash rainstorm, there was a major crash in the opening laps of this race which included Jo Bonnier in his #20 Cooper at the Burnenville corner. Jackie Stewart driving the #15 BRM crashed on the first lap at the Masta Kink and landed in a ditch where he was stuck upside down in his car for about 25 minutes. https://youtu.be/RCgmdy0jD4I Enjoy!
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
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- 3 years ago
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NEW Slot Track in GTA opening Some of you will have heard this already. Chris announced on a Slot Forum that Ernie Mosettis' is opening a new slot club that will be located just north of Racehaven. There will be two tracks; a routed track and a 135 foot Policar plastic track. See link below for photos. https://www.hrwforum.com/forum/hrw-scale-forums/slot-car-news/48664-new-toronto-area-commercial-track-shop#post48748
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in: Local Slot Car Groups
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- 3 years ago
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R32 XL @ Molto VeLoce – September 12, 2020 [seatt-form event_id=63]
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in: R32
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- 3 years ago
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Nano brushes I bought some Flex-I-File brushes at one of the model shows and never really understood how to use them. So they stayed in my drawer. I prefer to glue things like windshields in place with epoxy. But the risk of a glue-string is always there when using toothpicks. Sometimes you can wipe away the string with a cotton swab (Q-Tip). But the best way is to avoid it altogether. I was somewhat challenged with the Gunze Sangyo kits in that the windshield fits perfectly, but with very little over-lap. Any excess glue would easily show up through the windshield. I bought a variety pack of nano brushes to experiment with. It came with 3-sizes. Small (red), medium (yellow) and large (teal) plus a regular style paint brush (blue). The nano brush is a small puff-ball on the end of a plastic stick that holds a small dot of epoxy. It deposits the glue with amazing precision. Then with a small twist, leaves no strings. It also comes with a re-usable handle. I was able to paint several dots of epoxy at the base of the windshield without any glue contamination. The "rag-top" kits have a weak point. The windshield frame is very sensitive to breaking. It's best to get windshield in the car as soon as possible to protect the frame. I breathed a sigh of relief when this windshield was finally in. Here's the link. They are available in many hobby shops. https://www.flex-i-file.com/magic-nano-brushes.php
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 4 years ago
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Testors “One Coat” discontinued Testors "One Coat" spray paints are different from Tamiya in that the metallic is much larger and more of a "metal flake". It's also very hard to get a nice shine from any of the Testors metallic colours without adding clear-coat. So Testors discontinued their "One Coat". The new Testors paint markets under the name Model Master. Everything they make presently is considered 2-stage base and clear-coat. I guess they stopped trying to mix the two together because it wasn't working very well. If you happen to have an old can of Testors "one Coat". Use it wisely (59 Eldorado :good: ). Also... Use it quickly because these old paint cans have a tendancy to erode from the inside of the can and leak. Part of my paint shelf is a nice shade of metallic red. Since the leak, I have decided to store all the Testors cans in an enclosed plastic storage container.
Started by:
in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 917 on the street This is on my bucket list! It's only mu, mu, money... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jfLntBaNcms
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 4 years ago
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Auto Union Type C D’Arts
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Tamiya TS vs PS spray cans I painted 2-cars with Tamiya PS paint by mistake. I was at the cottage for a 2-week vacation, and a glass of wine may have been an influence. Most people tell you never use PS on plastic bodies, and never use TS on polycarbonate bodies (clear RC bodies). Now that I already made the mistake. I needed to find out why? Would I wake up one day and find both cars in a pool of plastic goo? Here are the reasons... TS is made for hard plastic and has a gloss finish when applied correctly to the outside of a body. It doesn't adhere very well to polycarbonate and usually flakes off. PS is made for polycarbonate and is meant to be applied to the inside of a clear body. It has very little natural shine on it's own. If you paint a plastic car with PS paint. It will have more of a matt finish. That's the biggest difference for plastic cars. However, there is an added bonus that your slot car will be fuel-proof. Like it really matters. The green Lotus is TS. The blue Lotus is PS paint... Oops. :wacko: And the other mistake...
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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What are you working on? Since were all stuck at home. We should have lots of time to start a few projects. I painted 2-cars between yesterday and today. Now they can cure for a week or two before working on them. This started off as George Follmer's light blue T70 Mk2 #16. The body sat in Super Clean for 24-hours. Then it was lightly water sanded with 2000-grit. The paint is Tamiya "Pearl Blue". It's much darker than the lid on the can. I recently saw a race format for 2-stock Trans Am cars and one TA+. That's a great reason/excuse to make one more stock TA car. I had a plain white TA Mustang that needed colour. The colour is Testors "Lime Ice" green with Tamiya clear-coat. My first try at using clear. The Testors metallic is more like a deep metal-flake. Although it looks the exact same colour as Tamiya "Candy Lime" green. They are totally different with respect to the metallic. Everyone please post what you're working on during your isolation. :good:
Started by:
in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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One of many SCCA entry lists I was browsing the net for diverse cars to build for future 1960-1965 SCCA races. This one list got my attention for some reason. Is that a Plymouth Barracuda in the middle of the list? :yahoo: This is just one of many SCCA entry lists from one of our favorite sites - Racing Sports Cars. The Slot Car show is around the corner. Happy hunting! Ken
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in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
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- 4 years ago
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How to accurately measure front/rear weight distribution Do you have two almost identical cars where one out performs the other? Like me, did you also question why? There are usually many reasons. One could be weight distribution. Here's a quick way to accurately measure the weight distribution on almost any car. Ingredients: 1) Two food scales from Walmart ($19.95 each)(We already had one in the kitchen. I just swiped it and added a new one) 2) A glass poster that can be leveled, or flat/level table. 3) Two small pieces of plywood to set the cars on. One with a cut-out for the guide. Here's the glass poster I used as a base for the scales. Interesting Hot Wheels poster. :yahoo: I don't think the Corvette will make it to the goldfish bowl. I had to add popsicle sticks under one plywood plate because the new scale was shorter than the old one. Don't forget to re-tare both scales with the wood plates before your test. Now I can closer examine why Fred Steinbroner's Ford Tudor handles the way it does. These scales don't care where the car sits on the wood plates. The edge of the scale still weighs that part of the car accurately. Even if the car sits over one scale a little more than the other. So long as the car is level, the numbers don't change. No need to perfectly center the car to get an accurate reading of weight distribution. Thanks for looking. Ken
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in: How To – Tune It
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- 4 years ago
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“The Heist” Making of the Porsche Super Bowl Commercial 20 minutes, quite interesting, Porschephile or not, culminating with the commercial. I guess ageing(gracefully) Dancers were more captivating!! Enjoy!! https://youtu.be/qXL1gbI3BXI
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 4 years ago
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Older Ontario licence plates Here's a place that offers older Ontario licence plates by year. https://www.licenseplates.tv/ontario.html Don't forget to resize for 1/32.
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in: Decals
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- 4 years ago
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Inactive User Accounts Gents, With more than 100 user accounts the beginning of the decade is a good time to clean up our home - so I've initiated our website to automatically reset the passwords of inactive accounts. Accounts for which temporary passwords are not changed will be deleted automatically. Cheers! Art
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- 4 years ago
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Alternative helmet straps and car stripes I have surplus supplies from building RC planes. There are sheets of self-adhesive decal material for RC aircraft that measure 5"inches x 36" inches that come in every colour. Some helmets don't come with a pronounced goggle strap. My hand isn't steady enough for paint. I use a paper shear to cut a thin strip of black decal material. I cut a small piece. Then peel and stick one end to the goggles, wrap around past the other side. Then take a razor to cut the excess. These goggle straps were added after the cars were finished. An oversight made in haste from the builder. But an easy way was found to resolve the problem. It also has a 3D effect over a painted strap. Using another colour to make stripes also works. Just know that if you place the decal in the wrong spot. The adhesive is very agressive in that it will lift the paint under it almost every time. Make sure to set it down right the first time. It was easy to stick the decal on the rear wing and trim the excess after it was in place. The nose stripes were a bit harder because they had to be cut to length prior to installation. Thanks for looking
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Drive shafts for front motor drive I found these drive shafts are in stock as of Nov, 27/19 at Electric Dreams. They are $7.99 US funds. https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/drive-shafts-all-manufacturers-c-3_1322/autoart-1473109-drive-shaft-assembly-for-124-citroen-xsara-p-13402.html They probably won't last long before stock is totally gone. Again.
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 4 years ago
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Scalextric 18k slim-line 050 motors These motors are reliable and powerful. They come with a 9-tooth pinion. Available at Electric Dreams for $8.99 US funds (as of Nov 27/19). https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/scalextric-parts-by-category-c-3_354/scalextric-motors-drive-shafts-c-3_354_359/scalextric-w10093-motor-ff-for-mgb-p-15265.html
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 4 years ago
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404 Galleries Error One of our updates broke the links to our model and event galleries which I now hope are fixed... :good:
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- 4 years ago
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Who let the cats out? I stumbled into 3-white Scalextric 1967 Cougars. One of the possible plans was to make IROC cars using BWNC1's. I can use the stock 18k motors elsewhere. But the gearing was eluding me so the project went back on the shelf. JMSracer helped me figure out how to gear these properly. The plan is once again in motion. Thanks JMSracer! The colours are: Fiery-tangerine, chrome yellow, and candly lime green. The tangerine Cougar was painted before the IROC idea was thought of. It was painted by Marty at Group-25 when he showed me how to paint. It was the snow-flake that started the avalanche. Thanks Marty! They all have working head/tail lights. An extention of night-racing? Time will tell.
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 4 years ago
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F1 Masters series at Tremblant July 12th-14th I went to this a few years back and it was pretty good. They had less turnout than usual that year because of other competing events but maybe this year will be better. http://www.mastershistoricracing.com/historic-formula-1-usa/championship/ Not sure if I can go yet but it does coincidentally coincide with the start of my holiday week so who knows? Too bad there is no camping at the track though. Waking up to the sounds of race engines is like nothing else. It is also a great historic track that maintains most of it's original features.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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Posting your raced model photos elsewhere made easy… As they say - a picture is worth a thousand words... to include any recent photograph of your model which exists anywhere on our website all you need to do (if you use Chrome) is to right click on the picture you wish to use (from our website) and select 'copy image address' - then just paste it into your post - the picture should appear as it does where you right clicked originally... :good:
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- 4 years ago
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Calendar, Database & Model Galleries Updated Gents, Our Scratch32 calendar is now updated for the summer season - one new event may be in order in August yet but plenty of time to sort that out. I've updated our model database and it is now up to 134... with several still missing - models which may have been raced but which never had a form submitted are not included. Also, some forms were submitted but the models never showed or raced - so those forms were deleted - please submit a new form when you register any new model in any event - don't rely on a past submission... our gallery is also almost updated completely - stay tuned...
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- 4 years ago
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Lotus 49 1st race out A good video on the Lotus 49's first race. With shades of Grand Prix cinematography. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6cm3eWEHM0
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Event Pictures Gents, From this point forward, pictures for all entries presented for events will be taken prior to the start. Additional pictures may be taken at the conclusion of the event, but this will be the exception.
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- 5 years ago
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$100000+ VW… Well not really, it's a "Frankfurt FLyer", and a Beauty!!! If only I'd married rich! Hmmm, I think my wife says the same thing!! :heart: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/runge-frankfurt-flyer-008/
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 5 years ago
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1/35 pedestrian bridge I saw this at Hornet Hobbies. It's only good for someone that has a track. It's listed at $75.00, but everything has to go by this Sunday. I have a feeling that a cash offer may lower the price dramatically on Sunday. Footprint is listed on the box. Ken
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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- 5 years ago
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Copper Tape Repair Across Power Taps – Courtesy KK Quoted From KK to others in SOS: I stumbled upon this little repair trick I thought I’d share with all the copper tape track owners I know out there. I have had a few issues with the tape tearing up where the power taps were installed recently and they can be difficult to re-solder once torn. I recently purchased some copper foil shielding tape for my guitars and it comes with “conductive adhesive” on the back. I used the 2” roll and cut 6 - 3/8” strips x 2” and placed them across the power tap locations Sunday afternoon. This tape is far thinner than the original tape I used and so far they are holding up nicely. With a multi meter there is absolutely no power drop or loss across the 2” repaired section. I also tried to remove a piece and it comes up without hurting the tape below. The problem spots were re-soldered and filed down smooth before applying the thin conductive adhesive copper tape layer on top. It actually smooths things out a bit and takes away the little click as the cars pass over the power tap. I will continue to monitor and report back if I find any issues that may arise with this type of repair but after about 1,000 laps there is no sign of wear, lifting or power issues of any sort. Thankfully all of my tap joints are in the middle of long straights and therefore should never really be much of a problem should there be some sort of minimal power fade in the future. This conductive adhesive shielding tape for guitars can be found for about $5.00 on ebay and Aliexpress. I also have tons of it in 1”, 2” and 4” rolls for my guitar cavities and back plates should anyone care to just try a piece themselves on a problem spot. The three lane section I tried this on used all of a 2 1/4” x 2” piece of tape and looking back I probably could have used the narrower 1” roll to do this. From JMSracer: Thank you for sharing this, your repairs looks very clean and seamless. I haven’t had any issues with tape lifting or tearing at the power taps only little on a couple of my tight turns but this is a great solution for a quick repair. From DArt: Excellent! :good: :good: :good: :good:
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- 5 years ago
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WordPress Update Recently our service provider automatically updated our website software (Wordpress) to a new version - v 5 - which now uses blocks - and with this has created a number of challenges for me to deal with on the back end. Things should be transparent on the front end however. I need to come to grips with these changes so I apologize for the delays with adding new content... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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Bandsaw blades I recently had a bandsaw blade explode and got lucky it didn't catch my hand in the process. I went to the usual industrial suppliers for a 93.5" inch by 1/8th scrolling bandsaw blade and found nothing in stock anywhere (Usually $16.00). I stumbled across a guy that makes blades to suit for $29.00 = Barry at M&L Sharpening Ltd 1550 Bayly Street, Unit 22, in Pickering. When Barry told me that he uses Starret blade stock, I actually got excited. It took Barry 10-minutes to make two blades while I waited. I now have a blade that cuts through thick aluminum as if it wasn't there. The weld is so straight, you can't see it pass when the power is on. I won't buy cheap blades anymore. I like my hands too much. Ken
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 5 years ago
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65 Porsche 911 at Spa…What could be better Fantastic short vid, amazing driver control, thrashing a race prepped vintage Beauty around Spa, ENJOY!! https://youtu.be/CvDD8V9Liq8
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Several Updates… and a few Upgrades! Gentlemen, Over the past few weeks we've had a multitude of updates added to our humble little corner in this universe - and one that failed - so after many many hours of confligulating annurosis and conjugulations to the untowards things were finally stabilized. I've never been closer to a pale shade of white than I was recently during those harrowing steps... but all is good that ends well and which is unnoticed by most... So upwards and onwards Blitzen, Ruben & Bacardi - hmmmm - something isn't right - yes - the order.... One upgrade featured alternate randomly generated user avatars - monsters - and since we are all sick of the tapestry avatars the monsters looked fabulous so I checked that box instead... funny how that spurred some to add their own avatar now... but like the screenplay says - nothing is foolish - it only gets better!!!! If you think that was subtle - take a closer look around - you might discover something... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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Classifieds Plug In Removed After several software and plug in upgrades on Sunday our Classifieds plug in broke - I've been working on fixing this over the past day but I haven't had any luck - so I've disabled it for the time being and will work on a fix or a suitable alternative - my apologies for the inconvenience.
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- 5 years ago
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Model Database & Model Gallery Updated Our Database and Galleries are updated to include the latest Carrera Panamericana models...
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- 5 years ago
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Group 25 Model Car and Model Slot Car Show Flyer – Saturday, September 29
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- 5 years ago
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Adding a Face & Shield to that Helmet For Targa V I re-entered my Porsche 908/2 with pilot Gijs van Lennop (red helmet) at the wheel but felt that another racing upgrade was necessary - not to the motor or chassis - but to the pilot's helmet. The DArt HT70 comes in two pieces - helmet and opaque visor - so I decided to remove the visor and add some facial detail by cutting a cross section of HD05 - enough to fit inside the helmet - which I painted complete with fire resistant balaclava. I sliced off both sides of the original opaque visor, painted them flat black and added them to either side of the visor gap, but before doing so made a template from which to cut the visor. I hate working with thin pieces of brittle transparency and so for the visor I decided to experiment with something much easier to cut and handle... Using the template I traced and cut out a slightly larger piece from a clear plastic bag (yes - the same bags that all of the DArt parts come in) and placing a very small drop of clear epoxy on either side (where the visor pivots would be) I added the clear plastic visor making sure that it was tight across the face of the helmet as the glue set. After this dried a small drop of silver paint would be added on either side of the visor as visor pivots and to help cover up where the epoxy was applied. The upgraded visor and helmet performed flawlessly - and more are on my 'to do' list for other models. :yes: Total cost was $3.50 (HT70 $2.50 + HD05 $1 + bag they both come in)...
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- 5 years ago
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Vintage A great initial get together for the 1934 Correa Ford V8 Special from the Rio GP and Sir Tim's 1930 4 1/2L Blower Bentley from LeMans!!! Both ran remarkably well while still maintaining their correct 'tall' appearance. Maybe even more remarkable was that despite a big dis-similarity in weight, size, motor and gearing, both cars made similar enough lap times that racing will actually be feasible and fun and they looked spectacular together on the track!! World's apart as 1:1 racers, but they didn't appear inappropriate together today. This is going to be fun!! :yahoo:
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Country Colour Reference Chart A quick and useful guide (attached below in .pdf format) for those of you who are considering applying colours - especially if your only resources are black and white photographs without written detail. If you discover that anything in this chart is incorrect please let us know by replying within this thread/topic. ;-)
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- 5 years ago
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Warm up for Ringwood A couple of clips to get one in the mood for the upcoming Ringwood. French G.P. 1965 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2XUs9_Uds4 1965 Nurburgring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8NoFM-xuKI 1967 German Grand Prix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRaAMzqYxpE Enjoy
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Shadowfax Slot Cars – The Dawn of Grand Prix Racing through to the Golden Era For those of you who are interested in pre-war models Shadowfax in France provides a number of high quality bodies/chassis/parts at a reasonable cost. Currently there are a few models from the 1930's that are being offered... Visit them at:
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- 6 years ago
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Event Galleries Load Faster Now Some background reconfiguration now means that all Scratch32 'Event Galleries' [on the Galleries/Event Galleries page (via the pull down tab on the main menu bar)] now load much faster.
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- 6 years ago
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R32 VII – Spa Lyons – April 4, 2018 The following gentlemen registered for R32 VII @ Spa Lyons: Porsche911; Art; Jimbo; MiA; FoX;
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- 6 years ago
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SlotTrak 13.03 – Free As many of you know, slottrak became freeware last fall. For those of you with a purchased version updated to 12.50 there is no substantive change apart from the software now being free. For that reason I don't see any need to update your track software to this newest version unless you are having hardware compatibility issues.
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- 6 years ago
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Tamiya Modeling Wax I've just started using this product from Tamiya and it really does bring out the lustre of your paint. It comes with its own 'cloth' applicator and is very easy to apply. No white haze after applying but make sure to remove any excess and simply buff to a brilliant shine with a tiny piece of cotton T-shirt scrap - just remember to be careful picking up your model since it will be slick - and no finger prints either! I haven't used this yet over unprotected decals so I'm not sure if it will attack them - best to do a test piece first. Retailing for around $12-$15 per bottle/kit at almost any hobby shop (that carries Tamiya products) a tiny drop goes a long way so price shouldn't really be a worry.
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- 6 years ago
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Austin Healey 100S This is a surviving version of one of these models. For the brief Silodrome article click here or check the attachment below... [foogallery id="5819"]
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- 6 years ago
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Perfect Paint by Alex Kustov Here is a great article by Alex Kustov entitled 'Perfect Paint'
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- 6 years ago
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Another Policar GP – 1970 March 701 Porsche911 brought another wonderful Policar March 701 for some tires - out of the box it runs very well. We mounted DArt FL0203 on the plastic rear wheels... Not R32 class eligible out of the box but performance is comparable.
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- 6 years ago
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MotorSport Podcast series Really great series of podcasts with many historic figures from F1 and other series Alastair Caldwell McLaren Team manager podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsbXE2Owaps Many others Frank Dernie ex Williams engineer is another great one. Enjoy!
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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1962 BRM P578 'Stackpipe' A wonderful article on the 1962 BRM P578 Stackpipe (attached below). "The best compromise seemed to match the pipe lengths, which meant pointing them skywards, and adding megaphone ends to assist extraction. Thus the slinky 578 gained its famous stackpipes: its most famous feature is a drag-making lash-up."
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- 6 years ago
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Great Historical reference site http://www.grandprixhistory.org/story.htm And below initial picture is 'please select a section' option, lots of specific subjects...Cosworth/Tyrell/The Lauda years/Turbo Years and many more. You could spend a lot of time here. ANd...Many subforums on left of page in Blue; CanAm/ Circuits/ Targa Florio/Great races, and of course a SLotcar section.
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in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 356 Super – #10 – 1952 Carrera Panamericana Decals for the #10 Porsche 356 Super which competed in the 1952 Carrera Panamericana (below) are attached.
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- 6 years ago
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David Piper Sandeman & Castrol GTX Just some of the images I used to make up my Sandeman decals along with some Castrol GTX stripes and logo... attached below in an MSWord file so you can manipulate and change numbers, names, etc. - hopefully you have the same fonts installed... if not I can upload a .pdf file too...
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- 6 years ago
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Cooper Monaco Here's the story of the Cooper Monaco which would be purchased by Shelby, Penske and others for SCCA races: Cooper Monaco
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- 6 years ago
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Carroll Shelby Goes Mid-Engine – The 'King Cobra' Years Here is a great article on the 1963/4 Shelby King Cobra: Carroll Shelby Goes Mid-Engine / The Shelby Cooper King Cobra Years
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- 6 years ago
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R32 I – The Ring – September 6, 2017 R32 I September 6, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="3834"] Results NASCAR (NC) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #48 - DwM – 81 Laps; #3 – KKr – 80; #17 – KKr – 79; #11 – ArT – 78; #7 – ArT – 78; #24 – DwM – 77. TRANS AM (TA) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 80 Laps (9.741 ext.); #1B – KKr – 80 (12.070); #1R – KKr – 79 (10.919); #98 – ArT – 76 (12.673); #35 – DwM – 73 (10.098); #2 – DwM – 72 (12.425). GROUP 5 (G5) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 123 Laps (12.222 ext.); #598 – KKr – 117 (8.183); #23 – DwM – 110 (10.801); #51 – MiA – 110 (11.594); LMP/GT (LMP) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #12 – ArT – 124 Laps (12.227 ext.); #009 – KKr – 119 (5.168); #8 – DwM – 117 (9.980); #1 – MiA – 114 (11.512); Cheers! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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2.4h Group C Endurance Race In keeping with both past tradition and our scratch building focus this fall we will incorporate another full day event for a 2.4h Group C 'enduro'. Obviously this will involve either a scratch built chassis OR body (or both) and is not limited to stock components (any components may be used). A marked hand out tire will be provided to those that pre-register before the deadline. Multiple entries will also be encouraged. Stay tuned for more details. Thoughts, comments and suggestions are encouraged at this early stage.
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- 6 years ago
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Gallery Feature Added We've added a new gallery feature. Go to the gallery using the link in either the header or footer menus. The gallery will include pictures from every event to supplement the event reports, plus others. User/contributor galleries (also for original pictures authored by registered users/contributors) may be available soon. Cheers! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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La Carrera Panamericana Badge The common event badge.
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- 6 years ago
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Harry O’Reilly Schell (1921-1960) A gentleman racer and very good friends with the Marquis de Portago (ring a bell?). See the attached article below but you must be logged in. In this famous picture he is slowing to receive a refreshment during practice prior to the Portuguese Grand Prix. Notice Jo Bonnier parked and looking on...
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- 6 years ago
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Monday, July 31, 2017 (4:30 – 6:30pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis 2 This is a continuation of our first session on completing a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for the Ferrari P4 body/class. We're using a Piranha motor with slot.it gearing, BWA wheels, DArt tires & inserts, and a Fly guide along with a modified Scaley body/interior. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We’ll have pizza and refreshments as usual followed by Ringwood XXI. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 31, 2017 – 4:30 - 6:30pm Where: The Ring [seatt-form event_id=3]
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- 6 years ago
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'Event Reports' Top Menu Link To make accessing event reports easier I've added an 'Event Reports' link/button to the top menu. This link will take you to a page listing all of the event reports so that you do not miss any.
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- 6 years ago
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Wheel of Misfortune As those already know who participated in the most recent version of Ringwood - Ringwood XX - we now have a hand painted spinning wheel called the Wheel of Misfortune. It has 16 'sections' - every section painted like a racing flag... The purpose of the wheel is to discourage 'offs' or 'crashes' during heats - and it works... Here are the flags with their penalties... Or Download the attachment below to read the explanations for every flag... :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Interesting approach to auto art using 3D modelling https://www.unique-limited.com/gallery Some of these shots are reminiscent of the tracks we race on and the cars we race.
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 6 years ago
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1969 CANAM Mosport – McLaren M12 #98 (George Eaton) George Eaton bought and raced a customer McLaren M12 throughout the 1969 CANAM season as #98. Here he is at Mosport: He never did win a race in any discipline during his career but he nevertheless remains a Canadian racing legend. DArthobbies has an M12 lightweight body kit for those of you that wish to model what he raced in 1969. He would later race for BRM and the iconic Castrol livery in CANAM... that is likely how most of you recognize him. :scratch:
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- 6 years ago
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1955 Le Mans Jaguar D Type #10 (Ecurie Francorchamps – Claes/Swaters) Entered in the S 5.0 class by the Belgian team Ecurie Francorchamp this Jaguar D Type driven by none other than team owner Jacques Swaters and Johnny Claes finished third overall and second in class in the 1955 Le Mans. I believe Claes is wearing the white helmet and Swaters a brown/dark coloured lid...
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- 6 years ago
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La Carrera Panamericana V & IV Blank Plates For those of you building Carrera Panamericana entries that need plates I found and cleaned up these .jpg images... :wacko:
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- 7 years ago
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Chris Brigg's Torsion Bar Chassis Article By request here is a link to a very good article on building a torsion chassis: http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id22.html If you believe it is useful better make a hardcopy for yourself to keep... Cheers!
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- 7 years ago
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Revs Insiture 1954 Lincoln Capri Also ran in the Panamericana
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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Revs Insitute 1953 Porsche 550 Coupe Ran in the Panamericana
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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Ringwood XVIV Gents, Cheers! :good:
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- 7 years ago
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Internationale Meisterschaft im Ring II – Das Goldene Zeitalter Various team transporters are beginning their long journey to The Ring for the IMiR II this Saturday morning... Rumours abound that team Chaparral will finally debut their 2J... what will other teams roll out from their transporters? In 30 hours we will know... B-)
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- 7 years ago
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Livery – Honda RA 273 With the anticipated appearance of more Honda RA 273s I've added more numbers to the decal sheet provided with the Darthobbies body kit...
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- 7 years ago
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Control Tower Details – Air Cooling at The Ring In anticipation of rising temperatures due to global warming Herr Stroebl installed a state of the art air cooling system in the control tower. Now trackside officials can stay cool indoors... :yahoo:
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- 7 years ago
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Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite 1968 Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite PQ. 1968 Rolling to the start line. What a front row!! :yahoo: Right Jack?? :scratch: It might be just the angle, but it sure looks like the rear wing dihedral has changed under load??? :unsure: Apparently someone had a sense of humor?? :wacko:
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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December 5, 2016 – The Ring 1950's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1950's Grand Prix Results: Art - 70 Laps (13.916 ext.) DoS - 69 (11.688) BiG - 67 (9.704) JmO - 66 (11.909) MiA - 66 (16.241) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results: Art - 76 Laps (8.466 ext.) BiG - 75 (11.080) JmO - 72 (8.738) MiA - 69 (9.647) DoS - 57 (12.580) 1970's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results: Art - 86 Laps (11.613 ext.) BiG - 83 (12.615) MiA - 79 (14.874) Jim O. - 78 (9.079) Cheers to everyone who was able to participate! Some very good and extremely gentlemanly racing! :good:
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- 7 years ago
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SlotTrak 12.44 SlotTrak has updated its software to 12.44... They mention that this update takes care of several bugs, one which sounds like it might deal with that repeating button press which some of you are experiencing in between heats...
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