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    • Harry O’Reilly Schell (1921-1960) A gentleman racer and very good friends with the Marquis de Portago (ring a bell?). See the attached article below but you must be logged in. In this famous picture he is slowing to receive a refreshment during practice prior to the Portuguese Grand Prix. Notice Jo Bonnier parked and looking on...

      Started by: Arthur in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Monday, July 31, 2017 (4:30 – 6:30pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis 2 This is a continuation of our first session on completing a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for the Ferrari P4 body/class. We're using a Piranha motor with slot.it gearing, BWA wheels, DArt tires & inserts, and a Fly guide along with a modified Scaley body/interior. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We’ll have pizza and refreshments as usual followed by Ringwood XXI. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 31, 2017 – 4:30 - 6:30pm Where: The Ring [seatt-form event_id=3]

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Wheel of Misfortune As those already know who participated in the most recent version of Ringwood - Ringwood XX - we now have a hand painted spinning wheel called the Wheel of Misfortune. It has 16 'sections' - every section painted like a racing flag... The purpose of the wheel is to discourage 'offs' or 'crashes' during heats - and it works... Here are the flags with their penalties... Or Download the attachment below to read the explanations for every flag...  :good:  

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1969 CANAM Mosport – McLaren M12 #98 (George Eaton) George Eaton bought and raced a customer McLaren M12 throughout the 1969 CANAM season as #98. Here he is at Mosport: He never did win a race in any discipline during his career but he nevertheless remains a Canadian racing legend. DArthobbies has an M12 lightweight body kit for those of you that wish to model what he raced in 1969. He would later race for BRM and the iconic Castrol livery in CANAM... that is likely how most of you recognize him. :scratch:  

      Started by: Arthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Upcoming Changes – Domain Name Change and New Format Upcoming Changes – Domain Name Change and New Format With the beginning of May approaching and the commencement of the scratch32 summer racing schedule the timing couldn’t be more perfect to initiate change regarding the r32 website. The existing format and layout are just too restrictive to satisfy scratch32 goals. So later this week and over this coming weekend I will be making several changes. All articles, photographs and forum resources will remain available and easily accessible by everyone after this weekend – but the emphasis of non-forum related material will shift exclusively to scratch32. - Cheers! - Art

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 7 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Porsche 804 Grand Prix This is another class eligible (60GP) or VRAA body kit - a Porsche 804 that raced in 1962. In the usual silver livery it is a pleasant alternative to the green, red, blue and yellow entries in this class and a car that everyone should have in their 1960's Grand Prix stable. I've decided to make two versions, one using the existing original car/driver detail and another which will be modified to include enhanced details, including added cockpit/driver detail, wire roll bar & aluminium exhaust detail (mirrors, wire roll bar and exhaust pipes are included in the DArt kit). This version is utilizing the original details but for the added mirrors. This vintage representation of the 804 is quite nice despite the fact that the nose is more 'bulbous' (sp?) than the original to accommodate a guide/front axle... other slot car manufacturers have struggled with this problem too with various levels of success. As with any 1/32nd model made to perform on track compromise with the silhouette of a car is unavoidable. I chose to go with a livery of the #30 car (driven by Gurney) with the only victory for Porsche in the French GP. I exchanged the kit head (which is very nice and should be used for Bonnier (or others)) with the Gurney head from Scaley releases. The driver shoulder and arm detail along with the fan & transmission and exhaust details are not bad on the original model. Of course I am talking about the original Scaley release of this model from the 60's... The windscreen is nice too, although a touch large but for a model to be raced that is just fine... First I removed any flashing on the body and windscreen using a fine x-acto knife. The original finish of the body in this kit is good, not perfect, since the original model/material was quite rough in areas and required a tonne of work, but just a little more sanding of the kit body will remove any remaining blemishes (and should be done for any body you plan to paint). Regardless, the material is easily sanded. I also test fitted the windscreen to ensure a nice fit. I trimmed the body post and drilled a hole for the mounting screw I planned to use - I may sleeve this with a piece of styrene tubing down the road depending on the abuse this car will take. Although I would still use the original roll bar and exhaust detail that doesn't mean I can't improve it a little - so I drilled small holes into both exhaust pipes and drilled out the solid roll bar detail. I decided to leave the air intake covers alone and not hollow them out since that would take a lot of work and the probability of screwing that up was way too high. Instead I planned to cut out the 'openings' from a dark coloured tent repair nylon 'adhesive' and fix that sticker in place, as I've done on other projects. In the end the result will look just like a dark grill is covering each opening. Just be sure to cut the nylon patch adhesive using a very sharp blade (for longer narrow strips I use a box cutter blade and after positioning it flat along the edge to be cut just tap it with a hobby hammer to make a clean cut - don't waste your time cutting it by dragging your blade along a straight edge...) After washing the pieces to be painted and letting them dry I primed them all using rattle can Tamiya Fine White Primer. Then the whole body was painted with Tamiya TS-30 (Silver Leaf) and given two coats. At this point I decided to paint the nose of the windscreen silver to match the body so it was masked using Tamiya Masking Tape and sprayed as well. Standard Revell-Monogram black number decals were added using Micro Set/Sol. For the more detailed model I will airbrush the numbers instead... I finally painted a 'suggestion' of a Porsche logo on the nose... I then decided to try something different - an acrylic spray for the finish - I used a can of Krylon Crystal Clear (41303) and gave the body two heavy coats. I have to say I am very happy with the gloss/finish using this stuff since I didn't sand anything I sprayed. It did take a considerable amount of time to dry, not unlike Tamiya clear however. But patience is of course a virtue here. I hand painted the transmission & exhaust details, roll bar, driver's chest/arms/hands & steering wheel - didn't need primer - used Tamiya acrylics... some flat, some gloss depending on what I was painting. I also hand painted the driver's head and mirrors. I used Citadel Mithril Silver (it closely matches the Tamiya silver paint) on the whole mirror and a darker grey on the mirror lenses since I like the effect it creates. I dropped in some Future floor polish into each goggle lens and used a strip of a dark coloured nylon tent repair adhesive for a goggle strap. There was no need for seat belts so none were made from tent repair... After everything was finally cured I drilled two fine holes for each mirror and tested for fit. I glued the driver's head into place with Amazing GOOP (clear). I glued the windscreen into place using Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy. Rather than running a thin bead of epoxy along the bottom of the windscreen I simply applied the epoxy into each of the four mounting pin holes using a toothpick. This ensured a nice clean bond. As for the mirrors, since they were being mounted into the body and not the windscreen I opted to use a pin to apply a tiny amount of Gorilla Super Glue into each hole before pressing each mirror into place. I wasn't worried about fogging so Super Glue was fine to use... The front edge of the windscreen that was painted silver in my opinion needed something else to clean up the look where it touched the body (the unpainted sides gave a nice clean edge and didn't need anything else). Since this is something that is easy to botch up if you try painting directly, I opted to brush on the same silver paint I used on the mirrors onto a very thin strip of nylon tent repair adhesive. I trimmed to fit and then applied along the leading edge of the windscreen that was painted silver too. I was tempted to add more detail to this car but decided against doing so. In my opinion it looks fine as it is. The complete painted body as is weighs in at 11.2 grams. A fun project - time to get to work on the chassis now...

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • December 5, 2016 – The Ring 1950's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1950's Grand Prix Results: Art - 70 Laps (13.916 ext.) DoS - 69 (11.688) BiG - 67 (9.704) JmO - 66 (11.909) MiA - 66 (16.241) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results: Art - 76 Laps (8.466 ext.) BiG - 75 (11.080) JmO - 72 (8.738) MiA - 69 (9.647) DoS - 57 (12.580) 1970's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results: Art - 86 Laps (11.613 ext.) BiG - 83 (12.615) MiA - 79 (14.874) Jim O. - 78 (9.079) Cheers to everyone who was able to participate! Some very good and extremely gentlemanly racing! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • SlotTrak 12.44 SlotTrak has updated its software to 12.44... They mention that this update takes care of several bugs, one which sounds like it might deal with that repeating button press which some of you are experiencing in between heats...

      Started by: Arthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • November 2, 2016 – The Circuit Euro Trucks (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) ET Results 1. John B. - 92 Laps (8.470 ext.) 2. Art - 90 (6.476) 3. Jim M. - 89 (9.290) 4. Jim O. - 83 (20.110) 1950's Grand Prix (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 50GP Results 1. Art - 97 Laps (15.511 ext.) 2. John B. - 95 (7.793) 3. Jim O. - 93 (11.848) 4. Jim M. - 92 (21.656) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. John B. - 108 Laps (14.306 ext.) 2. Art - 106 (8.787) 3. Jim M. - 105 (15.249) 4. Jim O. - 96 (16.708) 3.0L LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 3LM Results 1. Art - 111 Laps (8.427 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 110 (5.393) 3. John B. - 110 (14.193) 4. Jim O. - 106 (12.039) Cheers to John and both Jimmys for making it out to race! See everyone next week.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • VW Track Maintenance Van Not a scratch built model but the body of this VW White/Blue Camper Van was modified into a Track Maintenance vehicle enough so to warrant sharing in the forum. The original Scaley VW Van was previously modified to enhance performance by replacing the tires, wheels, axles, motor, pinion and braid. I used a BWA 9 tooth pinion on a BWMS050 motor with the original crown gear fixed to a new rear axle spinning through bearings. Wheels front and back were BW13-200-093-375 with 375LOT4WOB inserts capped with DART half moons. RM0201 tires finished the look. 7 grams of weight were added to the front of the plastic chassis and body float created for better handling. But the white/royal blue camper was of no use, so it sat on the shelf until now. This past Saturday we ran the IPS proxy and later that afternoon I decided to get off couch and complete this project. If you watched the Blue Jay game Saturday afternoon then you had enough time to do what I did below to turn this pleasure camper into a daily track workhorse. I removed the body from the chassis and disassembled the entire body and its components. The front and rear bumpers are separate pieces so they came off when the body was removed. Using dishwashing liquid I washed the pieces that were going to get sprayed: front and rear bumpers, main body, roof, split window front windscreen area and rear windows. I wanted to use Tamiya liquid surface grey primer mixed with a little Tamiya metallic blue (X-13) and diluted with paint thinner for the air brush. This gives the otherwise grey primer a light blue tint with a very faint metallic fleck - a theme to be carried over to other track vehicles in the future. I also wanted to glaze all of the rear windows using Tamiya TS-80, a flat clear spray on both the inside and outside of the windows to keep away any shine and make them almost opaque. After airbrushing the bumpers and entire body pieces everything dried for a half hour or so. I brushed on Tamiya XF-53, neutral grey, on the front and rear seats but left the dashboard, doors and floor the same colour as the body. The dashboard, steering wheel and 'stiff' driver were left as is since I didn't want to make this a whole day project. While the body pieces were drying I soldered together a working trailer hitch which I fixed to the rear of the plastic chassis. This was just buffed and not painted. I plan to make several trailers including a victory podium trailer... stay tuned for them... but that's for a NASCAR afternoon... I also hand painted the front split window edging with the same colour and then highlighted the window detail with some silver paint. This part was a pain in the ass and took nearly an inning. I also highlighted hinges and door handles with the same silver paint (the pictures do not capture this adequately). Since these areas are so fine if you do get some paint bleeding onto the window portion you can simply take a toothpick and rub away the paint using the pointed end of the toothpick after the paint has dried... this trick doesn't work on any painted surface though. After the paint was dry I made two pylon holders for each of the rear quarters of the body using .032 wire. These I didn't paint and simply drilled mounting holes and glued them into place. DArt Urethane Pylons were pushed onto these wires to complete each side. I then soldered together a small roof fence using .032 wire and buffed it. Again, I wasn't going to paint this either. This took another inning. I drilled oversized holes for the six posts. Finally it was time to reassemble and glue everything else together. Loose tires were added to the roof tray but not glued in place. The tray is also large enough to accommodate three straw bales... I contemplated adding graphics or lettering in white to the body but in the end opted not to, a choice I am glad I stuck with. I can always do so later on if I change my mind. I also have yet to add a rack with shovels and brooms to this van but there's always tomorrow...

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 7 years ago

      Anonymous

    • Decal Sheet Punches Local Dollarama's now have a very small 3/8" roundel punch... just the size I was looking for... perhaps the most popular diameter for 1/32 scale vintage Grand Prix/sports cars... now all you need to do is print your number on white decal paper and punch it out... but you'll need to clear coat it beforehand...

      Started by: Arthur in: Decals

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • October 5, 2016 – Molto VeLoce Circuit NASCAR (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) NASCAR Results 1. Art - 97 Laps (10.961 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 96 (10.088) 3. Drew - 95 (7.622) 4. Jim O. - 90 (12.491) 5. MiA - 84 (16.954) Sportscar (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Art - 88 Laps (7.082 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 88 (8.599) 3. Drew - 88 (14.737) 4. Jim O. - 87 (7.026) 5. MiA - 74 (12.278) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. Art - 102 Laps (8.094 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 101 (16.201) 3. Drew - 98 (11.623) 4. Jim O. - 91 (8.380) 5. MiA - 90 (8.019) CAN AM (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) CAN AM Results 1. Drew - 104 Laps (5.620 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 104 (10.093) 3. Art - 101 (9.773) 4. Jim O. - 99 (14.904) 5. MiA - 94 (11.047) Cheers to all those that could make it out to participate on such a beautiful day in Oakville! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • Dull, Cracked or Blemished Windscreens – Pledge Floor Care (Future Floor Wax) On any vintage slot car restoration project you likely want to salvage the windscreen because sometimes you cannot get a replacement (or get one at a reasonable price). This process also makes plastic windscreens which may have a slight defect or haze 'pop' with clarity and shine. For instance scratches are erased through this process, although it may take a couple of applications... In a prior time we and others used to refer to Future floor polish or wax as the product used. Now however it is Pledge Floor Care Finish which you can purchase at major retailers, including Walmart. It is a Johnson product and typically comes in a clear squeeze bottle of 798ml. To get maximum bang for the buck get a dollar store clear container with a snap on gasket lid, something large enough to fit any sized windscreen for your scale, but not something excessive. Fill the container with Pledge Floor Care and add a drop or two of Windex glass cleaner and mix thoroughly. The drop of Windex will help keep the polish from turning yellow over time. My preferred method is to dunk the whole windscreen into the mixture and leave it for an hour at the bottom. Use one or two toothpicks (metal instruments may scratch) to remove the windscreen from the container. Use another clean toothpick like a tight wire across supports from which to hang the windscreen to dry. Initially after placing the windscreen you will want to wisk away any excess liquid which accumulates due to gravity. A good quality Q-tip or carefully folded napkin works - but don't touch the windscreen. Cover the contraption with a plastic cup to prevent dust from settling and drying on your windscreen. Leave to dry for at least 2 hours. Don't handle for 24 hours. Inspect the windscreen and if something is still not right simply re-soak and start over. Remember that hair or dust or any foreign matter must be removed before re-soaking. Even if you bungle it up with finger prints just re-soak... In the end you should eventually have a blemish free sparkling windscreen which looks as good as new.

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Restore It

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    • 7 years ago

      Anonymous

    • Spray Can Nozzle Maintenance – Krylon Matte Finish Those of you using Krylon Matte Finish to seal your decals or anything else may have nozzles that get clogged even though the last time you used it you cleared the nozzle by depressing it holding the can upside down until it 'cleared'... If so, and you've made sure you've warmed your bomb, but it still fires blanks or spits unevenly then pull off the nozzle, dip in acetone and re-install... should work as good as new. I would think this works for many other bombs as well... BTW, for the Tamiya TS line of spray bombs you don't need to clear the nozzle (wasting contents) after each use - their nozzles never clog with normal use.

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 7 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • June 15, 2016 – The Ring NASCAR (180 sec. x 3 x 2 = 18 min.) NASCAR Results 1. Art - 161 Laps (30.508 ext.) 2. DwM - 159 (19.636) 3. JoB - 158 (24.531) 4. FCe - 156 (23.993) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. Art - 116 Laps (9.923 ext.) 2. JoB - 108 (8.177) 3. DwM - 107 (6.618) 4. FCe - 106 (12.431) Group 5 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group 5 Results 1. Art - 120 Laps (7.501 ext.) 2. JoB - 120 (9.881) 3. DwM - 113 (7.122) 4. FCe - 109 (11.626) LMP/GT (150 sec. x 3 x 2 = 15 min.) LMP/GT Results 1. Art - 152 Laps (16.076 ext.) 2. JoB - 152 (24.336) 3. DwM - 146 (19.093) 4. FCe - 136 (18.123) What a fast paced night of racing with some very close finishes... Cheers! - Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • To Clean or Not To Clean… Ronsonol is Our Choice!!! You need this in your race prep package... This is the only fluid/cleaner allowed for braid cleaning - use it... and use it often. Make sure your braid is dry before placing/racing your car on any track. This can also be used for label removing, cleaning parts (ie. anything that had oil touch it), and starting good quality fires. It won't harm plastic, resin or styrene. Here are the three sizes that come from my good man from the east. Get them! :rose:

      Started by: Arthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 7 years ago

      Anonymous

    • Final Clear Coat – Future/Pledge is It! You've spent hours painting a body and decaling it and now need to give it a final clear coat to hold everything together. You can use Pledge - brush it on or dunk it... your choice... You can add coats easily as every coat 'melts' the prior coat and fixes blemishes. Use a dust cover when drying... and drying only takes a few hours depending on thickness. Remember, when using this add a drop of windex to minimize the yellowing over time... it is very susceptible to light and heat. I prefer the Tamiya line of hard clears... but this is the easiest way to clear coat anything, especially if you are in a rush. B-)

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 7 years ago

      Arthur

    • Connect to a Printer Please! Gents, specifically hosts, Reviewing photographs of monitor screens for race results always adds time and sometimes proves difficult if the focus is not perfect (since the monitors are usually so far away)... since we all have printers at home please connect your timing computer to that printer (directly or via network)... this way the software can print out a copy of the results automatically after every race... and having a hardcopy makes things so much easier for whomever is posting the results. An alternative is to make a USB memory stick available with the race result printout in a text file... but I suspect this may be more difficult for some than hooking up a printer... alternatively every host can email me the results printout the following day... we are sending people to mars, cars can drive themselves, and robots are performing surgery so let us at least implement some 35 year old technology... Cheers! :bye:

      Started by: Arthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 7 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • April 30, 2016 – The Ring Classic Stock Car (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Classic Stock Car Results 1. KKr - 96 Laps (13.377 ext.) 2. Art - 94 (8.085) 3. DoS - 91 (6.090) 4. JMs - 91 (12.086) 5. DnP - 87 (16.245) 1960's Grand Prix (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results 1. KKr - 105 Laps (11.156 ext.) 2. Art - 104 (13.318) 3. JMs - 97 (3.443) 4. DnP - 93 (17.565) 5. DoS - 87 (13.182) Group C/IMSA (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group C/IMSA Results 1. Art - 119 Laps (16.495 ext.) 2. KKr - 118 (14.847) 3. JMs - 110 (12.331) 4. DoS - 105 (4.645) 5. DnP - 97 (9.236) 3.0L LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 3.0L LeMans Results 1. Art - 121 Laps (11.772 ext.) 2. KKr - 120 (14.785) 3. JMs - 107 (11.585) 4. DnP - 102 (14.941) 5. DoS - 99 (7.386) Cheers to everyone who was able to make it out to race at The Ring to close out the 2016 R32 Winter Racing Season! See everyone next week when we kick off the 2016 Summer Racing Season! - Art :bye:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • April 20, 2016 – The Ring Sportscar (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Art - 73 Laps (12.837 ext.) 2. JoB - 73 (13.352) 3. DwM - 72 (12.281) 4. JMs - 70 (10.236) 5. JmO - 70 (10.864) 6. BiG - 69 (11.053) 7. FCe - 69 (11.209) 8. Bob - 68 (14.214) Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Trans Am Results 1. Art - 78 Laps (3.354 ext.) 2. JoB - 78 (12.772) 3. JMs - 76 (8.275) 4. FCe - 76 (9.193) 5. Bob - 75 (15.314) 6. JmO - 75 (18.308) 7. DwM - 74 (18.317) 8. MiA - 71 (7.704) 9. BiG - 71 (10.824) CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) CAN AM Results 1. Art - 89 Laps (6.534 ext.) 2. JMs - 87 (12.180) 3. BiG - 85 (12.130) 4. DwM - 83 (3.126) 5. JoB - 82 (8.602) 6. FCe - 81 (5.638) 7. MiA - 79 (6.051) 8. JmO - 78 (11.675) 9. Bob - 70 (8.438) 1970's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 90 Laps (7.665 ext.) 2. BiG - 85 (9.425) 3. JoB - 84 (9.545) 4. Bob - 82 (9.226) 5. DwM - 82 (9.474) 6. FCe - 81 (9.677) 7. JMs - 81 (13.508) 8. JmO - 79 (5.535) 9. MiA - 76 (15.388) Cheers to everyone who participated in an exciting race night! Ferrari 512BB cars were ready to go if we had enough time to squeeze in an IROC race, but that was not in the cards... See everyone next week! Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • March 30, 2016 – The Ring Classic Stock Car (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Classic Stock Car Results 1. Art - 72 Laps (7.921 ext.) 2. JMs - 70 (14.262) 3. JmO - 68 (11.249) 4. MiA - 66 (20.480) 5. FCe - 65 (14.189) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 78 Laps (19.797 ext.) 2. JMs - 73 (12.446) 3. JmO - 70 (5.875) 4. FCe - 66 (0.234) 5. MiA - 59 (24.731) Euro Truck (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Euro Truck Results 1. Art - 71 Laps (10.840 ext.) 2. JoB - 68 (11.756)* 3. JmO - 65 (13.822) 4. MiA - 61 (16.835) 5. JMs - 60 (5.351) Group C/IMSA (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Group C/IMSA Results 1. Art - 86 Laps (10.908 ext.) 2. JoB - 84 (8.451) 3. JMs - 79 (8.182) 4. FCe - 77 (11.121) 5. MiA - 77 (14.265) 6. JmO - 76 (10.049) 3.0L LeMans (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 3.0L LeMans Results 1. JoB - 89 Laps (9.227) 2. Art - 89 (11.682) 3. FCe - 81 (8.877) 4. MiA - 80 (10.585) 5. JmO - 77 (11.704) 6. JMs - 73 (32.955) Cheers to those who could make it out to race... with and without controllers! It was also nice to see the progress that FCe and MiA have made in such a relatively short time... - Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • Wrong Set Screw w/Slot.It 16mm Anglewinder Gears Just a friendly heads up that I found a Slot.It 16mm anglewinder gear I recently received from slot car corner (which came in the usual slot.it original packaging) contained a 3mm set screw which was not 'cupped' but rather 'flat' tipped. I didn't order more of these gears so I don't know if this might be a one off or not. Normally you wouldn't even notice this. Never use a 'flat' tipped set screw if you intend for your wheel/gear to stay in place - they are however great to use to adjust/set the height of your front axle in any class where this is allowed... ;-)

      Started by: Arthur in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • 9 Essential Car Adhesives The 9 Essential Car Adhesives: All but 2 of these you might just already have in your garage - and if you do - make good use of them. As always, there may be better or worse things which you can use but these are what I recommend and use myself on any car I blueprint or blackprint for R32 racing. There are 9 adhesives or 'connecting' helpers which I consider essential and which are available at most local retailers and hobby shops in Mississauga. Here they are: 1) Gorilla Super Glue - I was a big believer in Black Max but at just $8 per bottle I was a convert. My new favourite super glue is flexible yet permanent and fills gaps well. Easily dispensed on a clean scrap of paper and applied using a toothpick I use this adhesive for gluing plastic wheels to axles, bushings to chassis (or slot.it bushings within the pod bushing holders), bushing filling (to prevent axle slop on stock classes) and when initially positioning body posts. On occasion I also use this to reinforce the outer edges of tires to the wheels in our fastest classes if the tire begins to pull away from the wheel. Do not use this near clear plastic because it will 'haze' the clear plastic. If you need to remove a part later apply Acetone (or nail polish) carefully with a Q-tip until the glue dissolves. The nose and cap are well designed, durable and easy to maintain which means you will use up all the glue before tossing it. 2) Gorilla White Urethane Glue - The regular formula is fine but I've switched to the white urethane glue which is supposed to dry faster and doesn't need a 'wet' mate surface - it does expand like the original so use it sparingly. I apply this to my wheels (again using a toothpick) to glue all of my tires to the rim. Apply it VERY SPARINGLY but make sure you fully coat the entire surface. Keep some bent axles for this purpose and mark them - they are great to use when gluing the tires... also make sure that the tire is 'true' before setting it aside to dry (not wobbling on the wheel). Others in our group use only super glue or nail polish to glue their tires - it is a matter of preference. The dispenser on the smallest size (pictured) is also very good and easy to keep clean but chances are the glue will go off before you use it all up so don't waste your money on a larger size. 3) Gorilla Clear Epoxy - The best way to fix a windshield is with a clear epoxy and this is what I prefer to use - but it is permanent so make sure the part fits first. It doesn't haze clear plastic and it is also great for fixing and reinforcing LEDs to/behind lenses. I also use this to reinforce or glue piano wire to chassis (where permitted). It can also be used for permanently fixing body posts but this is not my preferred adhesive for that purpose. Mix and apply with a toothpick. 4) J-B-Weld - To fix a crack or fill a gap or to strengthen a chassis nothing beats JB. I use this to glue or 'fix' most of my pods in position. I also use this liberally to permanently fix body posts after they are positioned using super glue. Again, mix and apply with a toothpick. Remember that this epoxy contains iron filings and therefore it will 'pool' or be drawn to magnets if any are close by - so don't use this near any magnet (unless you wish to). Since this dries overnight leave this for last. 5) Hot Glue (Sticks) - I am not the expert on hot glue nor do I really enjoy using it but it is relatively easy to use, easy to remove and has some resiliance which makes it a perfect gap filler, adhesive for pods and motors, and chassis/pod stiffener. You can glue just about anything to anything using hot glue, even if the pieces are miles apart. I use it to reinforce a glued motor to the pod or chassis along the 'sides' of the motor on faster classes since there are usually gaps which the more viscous adhesives cannot bridge. It also can be used to reinforce the gaps between the motor and bushing upright(s) on Group 5 motor pods. 6) Household/Automotive Clear GOOP - I use this to fix my motors in 'snap in' plastic chassis on both the drive and endbell (front and rear) sides which are in tight contact with the motor mounts. To remove a motor which is glued this way simply use a sharp X-acto to 'cut' the adhesive along the joints and after removing the motor just peel off the adhesive from the motor and from the chassis. A black coloured version (automotive version) can be used to coat LEDs after they are fixed in place to ensure durability and prevent light bleed, fix wires in place and fill gaps or reinforce interior components or trays where needed. It is also useful for fixing mirrors or other body components which may be subject to abuse... 7) Micromark Same Stuff Plastic Welder - I use this to repair or fix plastic/styrene bodies and all body components, including interior trays. This does not however work with the resin parts that I cast. Be careful since this will eat any painted finish and runs like crazy but it will fix any broken plastic piece to near original condition. I like the Micromark stuff since it comes with an applicator brush unlike Tenax or some others. 8) Micro Krystal Klear - Similar to a white glue on steriods this is great for fiddly windscreens and to fill or fix imperfect windscreen/window application borders. I also use this stuff to fill in body post holes when chassis screws do not stay in place and to fix inserts inside aluminium wheels. [BTW - never use Loctite on body posts - it eats the plastic.] 9) Solder - Your typical flux (282) filled electronic solder 63/37 to fix motor wires (preferrably silicone shielded) to motor leads - apply to the wire and to the motor leads separately then join with more heat... I use an acid flux with solder to fix no. 2 DuBro steel washers to solid steel axles for my independent axle set up but that is a topic for another subforum... Furthermore, not mentioned here are scenic adhesives (for which I use four: LePages White Glue, Super 77, Hydrocal and double sided adhesive tape) or fixing agents for decals (Krylon Crystal Klear or Matte Finish) and decal application helpers (Micro Set & Micro Sol)... Hope this helps a little... Cheers! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • Forum Server Update (Feb 19/16) -now you can insert images from your computer directly into your post by clicking on the 'insert/edit image' button (to the far right of the toolbar under the 'Visual' tab) - this will upload the image to the server and embed it into the body of your text... you must do one at a time... [to insert a link to an image already on the web you can click on the 'Text (HTML)' tab and then use the 'img' icon/button to insert that link - which we were already doing before - use a separate line for every link to image to keep things tidy...] Cheers! Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • Forum Server Update (Jan. 23/16) The following was changed: -thumbnail images displayed for all pictures uploaded as 'attachments' to posts The following plug in was added: -thumbnail resizer The following was changed: -'attachments' displayed as thumbnails below posts resized to 80 x 80 pxs (now you can copy the link on the picture and paste it into your post to display the image within your post - remember to use the 'img' button above the text field for your post... Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 8 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Forum Server Update (Jan. 21/16) The following addition was made: - In addition to Gravatar all registered users may now upload their own avatar; The following change was made: - To eliminate duplicate thumbnail images being displayed both in posts and replies the multiple image upload plugin was removed and a setting was changed to disable attachments from view unless inserted into the post by author. This means that previously convenient multi file uploading of pictures from your local directory to the server is no longer possible - you must upload each image one at a time right now. The following addition was made: - Voting and polls plug in added. Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 8 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Target 100k per Picture For those of you sharing/uploading images - please try to target 100k (or less) for the file size. If you wish to upload anything larger then you will first need to change the format/size/resolution to get it down to a manageable size (ie. a digital photo from my camera can be as large as 4mb each). Cheers - Art

      Started by: Arthur in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • Uploading Files Images are straightforward but I've added an individual file uploader which will allow us to upload more types of files, such as .pdf and .doc . The only restriction is file size which I've limited to 500k - unfortunately most MSword files well exceed that... Cheers! Art

      Started by: Arthur in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • SlotTrak version 12.32 Gents, In my opinion the best timing software is SlotTrak Pro. The current version is 12.32 and those of you with version 11.xx will need to pay $15 U.S. to upgrade, otherwise a fresh install is $75 U.S. . You will need to receive your registration key from them in order to run the software for more than a few laps... I recommend that you install the software on your computer first and test it before payment/key request. SlotTrak Commercial can control individual lane power and is designed for those that sell time. SlotTrak Software Every track in our rotation (but for The Lake) runs SlotTrak (either 11.xx or 12.xx). One of the benefits of this is that several of us can assist whenever an issue arises. I would urge each of you to read the manual SlotTrak Manual after installation. SlotTrak works seamlessly with Trackmate hardware which can be purchased at Trackmate Racing. Most in our group use the Trackmate for windows module, power relay module, driver stations, track call buttons and at least the DC Power Supply 3020 (30v, 20A). Cheers! Art B-)

      Started by: Arthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 8 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1000km – November 10, 2007 1000km The Ring - November 10, 2007 [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/071110-SlotTrak-Qualify-Report.pdf" title="071110 SlotTrak Qualify Report"] [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/071110-SlotTrak-Race-Report.pdf" title="071110 SlotTrak Race Report"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 16 years ago

      Arthur

    • Slot It 2.4h – August 18, 2007 Slot It 2.4h The Ring - August 18, 2007 [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/070818-SlotIt24-SlotTrak-Qualify-Report.pdf" title="070818 SlotIt24 SlotTrak Qualify Report"] [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/070818-SlotIt24-SlotTrak-Race-Results.pdf" title="070818 SlotIt24 SlotTrak Race Results"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 16 years ago

      Arthur

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