Forum Replies Created
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I have a friend who used his lathe to make Vel Stacks for a 1/32 Cheetah for a guy in my slot group. What would be the dimensions of what you want? I can ask him.
Ken, wouldn’t the #1 Injector Stacks be very close to size to your needs. You can cut the length down but the diameter is not too far off a 3/32 (0.938 vrs 0.11). At least my thinking is they might look okay but ………. I am Mr. whatever fits … :yes:
Length: .59″, 15mm
Diameter – OD (tube): .11″, 2.56mmhttp://www.tedsmodelingmarketplace.com/injector-velocity-stacks-1-1-25/
Interesting to see all the different builds by folks and the Lego Aston Martin build was truly awesome.
That is great – thanks Art and Ken – appreciate Art’s sharp eyes. Just sent you an email confirming I would be coming to G25 tomorrow before I checked here.
Dave
I had the same problem with those SCC decals. Not a very good product. I eventually got them to work for me by only soaking one at a time, using a broad dull knife to transfer them from water to car and being very careful. There is not a lot of wiggle room in placing them on the car in that you can’t adjust them more than once, twice if you are lucky. I believe they are the same ones that Pendle sells. I ended up buying some from the dollar store and they are a bit better but cheaper! I feel your pain but good luck.
Ken, that sounds like a worthwhile afternoon. I will put a place holder on the date and we can talk later. My Tudor is in the garage for repairs – the wild rollover blew the front and rear windows – so trying to fit the back window in without removing the interior. Plus the rear body mounts came loose. So some work to do on it.
Art, if you find the Tudor front window on your track – let me know :unsure: Thanks
Came across this on Ebay a while back and just rediscovered it — amazing!!
The T59 is now finished – a little later than planned. Weighs in at 62 grams. Art, I will complete the model entry form with all the details.
Apologies for not getting out the last few times combination of things. Visited father-in law a few weeks ago, walked in, note on counter saying not feeling well gone to the hospital. Turns out he had a small stroke, but he drove himself, parked illegally as he wouldn’t pay the parking fee :negative: — he is okay and now has the medical community all over him as he lives alone. Sorry if that’s too much information.
All set for the next Coppa D’Oro. H’mm next project ??
After seeing Jim’s wonderfully finished car, I am encouraged to show the progress I have made on the Bugatti. The main tasks left are the guide system, the motor bracket, decals, final clear and then I can put it together.
The wheels are RSslots with Dart tires on the rear. The front tires are RSlots but I will pick up more of Arts. The chassis is brass and one piece which I contoured to the space available. I will have to strengthen the rear axle for sure. I had to modify the exhaust as I didn’t mount the engine, I used a piece of plastic card and drilled all the holes to accept it so it juts out more than I would like. I cut it and linked with a piece of 1/16 piano wire. I estimate the whole car will weigh 65 grams.
I am happy with the look using Vallejo paint. I used black primer as well. After the water based paint dries you have to clear it before you can handle it – don’t touch or wipe the paint before hand.
The car will be driven by Achille Varzi, #18, debut in the 1933 Spanish GP with a 4th place finish. The engine is 2.8 L. I believe in 1934 they increased the displacement to 3.3 L? Michael will know for sure.
Achille Varzi http://www.grandprixhistory.org/varzi.htm Check out the 7th picture — could that be a the Spanish GP? The car #s seem to match up with the starting grid. Spanish GP starting grid http://www.kolumbus.fi/leif.snellman/gp3316.htm
Onward and hopefully upward ……….
DB
Thanks Michael, I ordered the kit this morning so realistically it will be a 2019 showing. I am learning towards a black livery but will have to check out if they raced in that color. :good:
Thanks Art. I thought I had seen one on the site. The type 59 was raced in 1933-34, bigger engine, gearbox etc. I believe that f1nutz’s was from the 1926-30 era, though body styles are very close. Yes, I think my wheels would do very nicely on it though will need help with the tires.
Yes, that is her. It is a SP with a Vanski motor. It is all finished and runs not bad. It is heavy at 94 grams. I will complete the registration for you.
Overall dia including tire – 24.93mm. Width – 6.3mm
Rim dia- 15.65. Wheel dia visible with tire mounted – 15.65mm.
Hope that helps.
Hi Ken, welcome – look forward to meeting you sometime.
Based on input from other group members, I use 3/32nd and 1/32nd piano wire plus 0.032 inch brass sheet/strips. I made the motor support which is 0.064 brass (soldered two pieces together for extra rigidity). I use a dremel, hobby chop saw and hobby nibbler to get where I am going. Motor supports are 1/32 wire. I have problems with ride height and guide height usually in my builds. This time I think I got it right as it runs very smoothly from my testing this morning. I used the metal wheels (less the rubber) when soldering in the bushings that gave me my ride height. I am not much of a measurer hence my self inflicted challenges. I use a hobby wire bender and it helps me. The rear loop was an after thought along the lines of … “how the *** I am going to attach the rear of the chassis” but it worked out well.
Art is an inspiration and his builds are truly incredible. Many things you see in my chassis, I picked up from Art’s builds. And each build gets a bit better.
Cheers Dave
Thanks Ken. I will take some snaps before I start putting it together and post them. I will warn you my chassis builds are pretty ugly –LOL
Thanks guys. FYI, I originally wanted to use #24 but didn’t have any decals (no …I don’t make my own :unsure: ). So I had a Pattos sheet with #25 on it so bingo!
Body mounts put on today plus interior almost ready. The body was a great to work with (so clean – thank you Art) and the paint job came out great. With a bit of luck from the Gods could debut later this month.
I don’t have any trim pieces for it. It cost me $13 US from ebay. The body weighs 20 grams. Thanks Michael for your comments.
It was originally, I would say a 1958 version, but I wanted a pre A version. So I added the split window support and sanded out the rear tail lights and added two small headlights as rear lights in their place. Wheel wells had to be filled and reshaped.
Would the intent be to run both (for example) SP and SP+ cars in the same race? Or would they each have their own distinct race? If they run in the same race then I suggest consideration be given, to the extent possible, of alike cars being grouped to run against each other, in order, to reduce the inevitable frustrations between running slow and faster cars in the same race.
My overall concern though would be that guys might just gravitate to a faster motor in order to compete and the slow motor class is lost.
Just my thoughts. :good:
Yes, probably a B23 albeit without the rear bolt on arch valance.
The B19s, 21s and 23 were somewhat fluid in that the were tweaked each season. The 19, 21, 23s were all fundamentally the same except for the tweaks. The 21s evolved into the 23 due to front suspension changes (badged as B21/23s intially) and the rear bolt on arch valance and headlights (B23s).
There is some variation in the cars seen on the track – some cars used both a rear air spoiler and rear arch valance. A quick google on Chevron B23 will show this.
That’s all folks …… Happy New Year
Hi Drew, nice to see you again last night. As discussed, it would be great to have a copy of the file, my email is
Unfortunately, I will have to decline the Jan 3rd event.
Cheers
She runs very well and benefits from the modern parts switch. Other models where I used the old axle/gear set up don’t run as well.
