Forum Replies Created
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Art, wanted to thank you for the excellent workshop last night. It certainly will help in my next chassis. BTW, coming early on July 31st works for me if that is the date agreed upon for the next workshop.
Cheers
Dave :good:
Really nice set up for you Ken, both the track and work area look great. I can appreciate the work you put into it.
All put together and running. Fairly smooth but needs a bit more tuning. Had issue on placement of mounts but ended up going with traditional front and rear mounts rather than mounts on side panels which chassis instructions recommended.
Looks great and will be awesome when completed. I started mine yesterday, set up on the jig and epoxied in the bearings but was so so so tempted to paint it first.
Sounds very interesting. I am in, I like the concept. A few questions.
Regarding motor, you said open so there are no restrictions? So one could use either a stock scaly, Shark 22k, Slot-it, King? The control factor I guess would be a motor that complements the body/chassis set up.
312P would include windows from you?
Would there be a proxy component if one could not make a race date for some reason provided a working 312P was delivered to you in time?
David
George Turner makes 1/32 kits of 50s and 60s transporters. Don’t know if he has that exact one though.
I enjoyed the show too. I didnt stay long but picked up two kits.
1936 Duesenburg SSJ Roadster. Been looking for one for a while. I have a metal kit version picked up from Value Village years ago. Always thought a slot car of the model would be cool.
MG K3 Magnet
Pics to follow.
Happy Thanksgiving guys.
Luis, I got them from indycal in the US. They were $8 US plus $2 for a paint mask (recommend you get one as it helps greatly in painting the nose). Standard postage was $2 US. They arrive in 7-10 days.
Thanks Steve. My approach was that I drew a template of the indy car cavity, made sure the measurements were correct and a tich under. Then I bent a peice of wire into the shape of that cavity, the curve being at the rear. Then I cut brass plates to fit and soldered. Fairly quickly you get a base chassis that fits the Indy cavity. I have used this method before on a pre war buggati with brass wire as it bends easily. I am not a very good chassis builder but found this method helped me move forward quite well. Encourage you to give it a try.
Thanks Art. I found the windscreen straight forward to add. It was a good fit but you have to be careful with the gorilla glue and then placement.
I am using a 10/24 gearing but haven’t tested it since I fitted the D7.5s. So I will have to pay attention to that. I could go with a 28 or 29. Thanks for the heads up. Been putting the decals on this past weekend.
A few pictures
after painting the nose and side stripes. Decals should cover the bit of bleed on the hood. DART tires … 7.5 on rear and 7s on the front.
Thanks Art, my thinking is similar so thanks for the information. I will check my rim box to see what RSS rims I have. I am pretty sure I have 5mm rims so I will see. I will order some tires soon then.
What size tires are folks using? I am thinking about using 14.3 X 5mm wheels from Pendles, then using a D7 (Front) and D7.5 (Rear) tire. Interest in what others are using?
Hi Art, I will take the chassis if it is still available. Do I order it thru the online site? Thanks Dave
I also found a set of 14 x 7.5mm wheels which are the Anglia rears. You can have those if you want. Let me know sometime. Dave
Hi Felix very cool car. I have models of an Anglia, Escort, A35 and Triumph Herald. I used Pendle wheels. See my pic of the Anglia. Front wheels .. 11.47mm x 5 … Rear 14mm x 7.43mm. The rear takes a larger Dart tire. I have a spare of Pendle wheels 11.47mm x 5mm if you want them for free. Pm me with your address and I will drop them I the snail mail.
D
aveCertainly agree with the sentiments in your words. At some point, the silent majority will speak very loudly about the shenanigans.
I think an outdoor track is the only way to go continue any form of racing. I can’t see myself having folks over to race in my basement for quite some time, maybe never.
My thoughts on a track. A 3 lane track would be the norm subject to space limits though there wouldn’t have to be scenery areas. A 2 lane would provide more footage in the same space and require adjustment as to how we might race – rally mode, time trials. A module approach could be considered with a core central section which allows the addition of longer or short straights based on location. I know many UK slot car clubs have their layout in sections which are put together for the evening and then dismantled. But usually, the sections are stored at the same location.
I would participate in your outdoor track events subject to the obvious caveats regarding social safety for everyone.
The Beardog brackets are also available from Electric Dreams, that is where I got mine from. Link —- BD104S Beardog mini motor/rear axle bracket – Steel [BD104S] – $8.59 : Electric Dreams, New and Vintage Slot Cars, New and Vintage Slot Cars
I then used them as a template to create a number of copies of just the motor plate using brass sheet. If you have a drill press it is doable.
Here is a pic. My machining skills are about 1% of Ken’s but I used a couple in chassis.
I didn’t know John though I would offer my condolences to his family and friends. My wife has lost a couple of older friends this past year so I respect the loss people feel. Ken my condolences to you as well for your losses. We are all living in times that are testing our resolve and our sense of humanity yet the slot car hobby connection does help us deal with what life sends our way.
Thanks for your comments Ken.
I will post the pictures in a separate post. The parts used in the chassis build were:
Pendles SRC 1/32 bushings
Slot-it wood guide (CH10)
BWMSO50 motor
Pinion 10, Slot-it crown 23,
Pendles 14 inch wheels with minilite inserts
Spacers
The front and rear axles/wheels were centered by adding spacers outside of the chassis. Checked motor/gear mesh was good then expoyed the motor to the chassis. The spacers on the rear axle were then switched to inside the chassis. There was still a slight movement so I cheated and added a stopper to eliminate movement by the crown gear. Probably need 0.015 spacers.
The axles and wheels were on the previous plastic chassis and I retained them (main reason why I built the Escort first).
Guide was inserted and plastic spacer was added before screw to hold snugly in place.
Weight was added at the front using 0.064 brass and weighs about 5 grams. Hole was drilled in the weight to allow clearance for the front body post. In hindsight that much weight is probably not necessary.
To install the guide posts I measured the vertical distance to the bottom of the car body for each post. A little extra clearance would automatically be provided by the expoy and the head of the screw insert. I found that cosmetic wedges do a great job of allowing you to level and support the body. They are sponge like and allow for easy adjustments. I have tried popsicle sticks but have trouble with them. The wedges are cheap to buy or raid the wife’s or GF’s makeup drawer.
Attached the body posts to the chassis and tested body for fit. Body post height was v.good but ended up adding a washer to the rear post assembly for a bit more clearance plus moved the rear wheels in just a touch (maybe a mm). The rear flares give less clearance in the body than you might think.
The interior is the original interior and weighs about 5 grams.
Total weight of the car is 82 grams. Runs smoothly but not fast. If it was going to be raced, then I would eliminate the front weight and use a card interior which would reduce the weight by 10 grams.
Overall, very happy with it. Ken’s chassis build makes things easier but you do need the right parts – thanks Ken.
As Bugs said “That’s all folks”
Didn’t realize you are in the East end Steve, so I will stand corrected on my statement. Post pandemic I will certainly have bits and pieces looking for a good home. Take care. Dave
I haven’t listed anything in S32 classifieds due to distance and payment issues. In that, I live in Ajax and most members seem to live in the West end. It makes no sense for me to deliver an item by car or even the buyer to pick it up when it can be sent via Canada Post for about the same cost (assuming payment can be worked out). To clear things out I sold a fair bit this summer on Kijiji and only one person agreed to a Canada Post collect on delivery, so there has been very little acceptance for mail delivery for slot cars in my experience (I guess take out food is viewed differently!).
Sorry for the blah, blah, blah Art. I would say the classifieds only make sense if both the sellers/buyers are willing to agree to a Canada Post deliver method and given the small amount of classified activity maybe that is the message. Though, I would agree with your in thinking in that one would think there would be more activity given the lockdowns. :unsure:
Copied from facebook post ………..
Happy New Year – 2021
When Corona is a beer again
When Donald is only a duck
When tiers sit on a cake
When bubbles only exist in champagne
Ken, very good write up.
One question, by switching the 0.010″ spacer what does that do? Holds the crown tight against the pinion while the epoxy dries and then switching sides creates the free running mesh?????
Thanks
Nice job Luis. Always loved the split window Corvette. If you get time, would be interested in see a picture of the chassis. Thanks Dave.
Chris, I certainly would be appreciative of your help on making the car run better. I have a number of cars with RX03 motors and it’s a winter project to “tune” them. How would we move forward on that.
Many thanks
Dave Blundell
Thanks Michael, I used a few strips of thin unfinished oak veneer I had laying around. Then used Minwax natural stain/varnish on it. Cut it to size and glued to two cross pieces. After I was happy with the fit I then used the Minwax, then just dropped it in. It was a snug fit, so no need to glue into box.
I can’t remember a RTR Spitfre ever being produced. Too much competition from other sports cars, Jags, AM, Healey etc for manufacturers to pay any attention. There are a few resin kits plus the kit you found. George Turner does a good job of making some nice kits of more obscure British cars. Finished tuning up my Triang Cooper though need new tires and to grind down inserts for rear wheels. Runs much better.
The Herald is an interesting find. I owned one when I was 19. Kind of sporty even in the base model but very prone to rust. Always like the Spitfire such an iconic name.
My projects include giving some love to a number of unloved Triang cars from the early 60s (Lotus, BRM, Cooper). Most have running RX03 motors (similar to a Pitman). Tuning them up with metal rear wheels, new tires and general clean up. I have one dated 1961 on the chassis. Also looking forward to the kits from Art I purchased Auto Union and Corsa.
I have a number of sealed 1/32 kits which I probably will never make but who knows! :unsure:
Updated this model. Added new BWA s050 motor plus narrowed the rear track by hogging out the rear wheel wells. New radiator as well.
Great job Jim. What wheel and tire size did you use? I am struggling with finding rear wheels that look realistic for my STP Kurtis Nova. Thanks
I forgot to mention that Ken takes alot of credit for this car, chassis, set up and encouragement. Thanks Ken.
Great job Jim. The colour really pops. Reminds me I should post my finished Tudor that I started 15 months ago.
Hi Joe, it was a simple fix. I built the chassis normally but it was very light and wobbled as there are only two chassis posts. I used K&S 5/32 90 degree angle bracket #172 and two 9mm strips of brass (which I had to cut down a bit per photo). Drilled 2-3 holes in one side of each angle bracket to provide extra grip for the solder. Soldered the angle brackets to each side of the chassis then added the brass strips. I used a ceramic jewellers block to lock the pieces in place for soldering. I added maybe too much solder but wanted to make sure it wouldn’t drop off in a race, hahaha been known to happen. I will start a separate thread as requested and take pictures of the chassis. The difference in chassis rigidity is amazing.
Thanks Ken. The Porsche is an 804 not what I posted by way of correction. Got a few more on the assembly line given all this free time. 🙂
Yes, very useful information Ken. Many thanks as my paint supply is running low so I can get an idea of what is left in the cans. :good:
I seem to remember reading the “120” designation was because it would do 120 mph or 200 kms. Guess today it would be a XK 200, hahhaha. Not bad for an old banger!
The front bumper is 2.8 mm off the track. The body sides are 4.3mm off the track. I had to create a level platform in the front and rear of the body to hold the body mounts as it is very curved so found it hard to get a stable body mount in place. The Jag is my best effort too date on creating a low rider most of my builds sit too high. Very good on the research Ken. :good:
Thanks Ken. Sorry for the duplicate posts, I will have to wait longer for it to display. Since the post, it has been cleared, steering wheel and driver added. Also, this afternoon I made the suspension rods so will try and fit those before I post again. Great what lots of time and nothing to do can achieve. :wacko: Hope things are still good with everyone.
Latest pictures. Chassis is in and it runs. You will notice the chassis is 3/4 length. I was concerned about fitting the front axle, guide and body mount and motor in such a narrow space, so I separated the front axle from the chassis. As it is, the motor butts right up against the front body mount. I have re-sanded the body and applied another coat of paint. Painted up the driver as well. Coming along …
Things have moved along with the build. I have it running!
The chassis was difficult, particular the rear axle, due to the narrow cavity. I was able to carve out enough plastic to allow the motor to sit properly. The motor was epoxied in place . As you will see it is really only 2/3rds of a chassis as the front axle is free standing. Not pretty but it fits. A Scaly guide was used.
Yes the motor will have to be mounted sideways. It will move a little further forward and will still leave room for the guide and mounting post. I have cut a chassis from brass with a guide hole and it slips into the space.
Thanks for your comments Ken. It is one of my favorite builds that I have done. I hadn’t really thought about what event it may race in so there won’t be any conflict with me on whatever you decide to do. From my research I found most XK120s raced in CP were hardtop but modelers license would permit a open top I would think, besides the data is spotty for early 50s CP entries so it would be easy to argue there was an entry. Happy building and stay safe! Here are two interesting links of the XK120.
Wouldn’t you just love to be in this XK120 right now ………….
Don’t know what race this picture is of (could be CP?) but this looks cool
Makes sense about the pics as it was a B&W pic of a XK120 in rally mode. Look forward to seeing your XK once completed.
Thanks for your comments Ken. It is one of my favorite builds that I have done. I hadn’t really thought about what event it may race in so there won’t be any conflict with me on whatever you decide to do. From my research I found most XK120s raced in CP were hardtop but modelers license would permit a open top I would think, besides the data is spotty for early 50s CP entries so it would be easy to argue there was an entry. Happy building and stay safe! I have had some problems in replying esp adding a link or picture :unsure:
Thanks for your comments Ken. It is one of my favorite builds that I have done. I hadn’t really thought about what event it may race in so there won’t be any conflict with me on whatever you decide to do. From my research I found most XK120s raced in CP were hardtop but modelers license would permit a open top I would think, besides the data is spotty for early 50s CP entries so it would be easy to argue there was an entry. Happy building and stay safe! Here are two interesting links of the XK120.
Has a Scaly FF motor which is needed as the car weighs 105 grams. Tried a BWA 050 but wasn’t powerful enough. Need to finish off with a driver and looking for a female driver. The decals turned out creamish once they dried :unsure: Inserts are from the kit and filed down.
