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    • 2017 International Race of Champions – The Ring – December 20, 2017 2017 IROC  Qualifying: Everyone chose to qualify on the middle lane. ArT; BiG; DwM; JMs; MiA; DaB; JmO. Race Results: 1st Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) JMs – 81 Laps; ArT – 80; BiG – 80; DwM – 79; JmO – 78; MiA – 76; DaB – 75. 2nd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 162; BiG - 162; JMs - 160; DwM - 158; JmO - 156; MiA – 153; DaB - 148. 3rd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 244; BiG - 243; JMs - 240; DwM - 238; JmO – 234; MiA – 230; DaB - 224. 4th Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 326; BiG - 324; JMs - 321; DwM – 318; JmO – 312; MiA – 307; DaB - 300. ADJUSTED FINAL RESULTS (180 sec. x 3 x 4 = 36 min.) [crash = -1 lap] ArT – 325 Laps [-1 lap]; BiG – 324;* JMs – 320 [-1 lap]; DwM – 317 [-1 lap]; JmO – 312;** MiA – 304 [-3 laps]; DaB – 293 [-6 laps]. * Fewest Crashes ** Second Fewest Crashes Christmas came early for everyone this night. Prizes were awarded as follows: BiG chose this DArt body kit: But then opted to trade in the Ferrari 312P body kit for the mystery prize hanging from the Christmas tree elsewhere: It was a lovely Fly Juncadella Chevron B21! Well done BiG! Our next place finisher JMs chose this DArt body kit: Next, DwM made his selection: Followed by JmO: Up next MiA chose his wrapped door prize - he unwrapped a Lindberg model kit and five BWMS050 motors: DaB unwrapped the second door prize: Time for the two most prestigious awards on the night - most flawless on the evening. BiG and JmO both collected top honours with no offs each - tie going to the higher finisher meant Bill chose his second DArt body kit and received an 'unobtainium' Vanski unrated motor:  JmO picked his second DArt body kit and received his unrated Vanski motor: Excellent racing by all! This will close out the Scratch32/R32 fall racing season. Our next scratch32 event will be the Targa III here at the Ring while the next R32 race will at the lovely Spa-Lyons - both in early January! Info on both is right on our website! A wonderful end to 2017... Merry Christmas to everyone and please have a very Happy New Year! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 4 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Monday, July 17, 2017 (6:30 – 10:00pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis By request this is a session on building/soldering a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for a class/body yet to be determined. Although I am far from an expert on building a scratch built sidewinder chassis myself I will host this opportunity for those that are interested to watch just how I tackle this project in real time. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We'll have pizza and refreshments as usual. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 17, 2017 - 6:30 - 10:00pm Where: The Ring :wacko: [seatt-form event_id=2]

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 4 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Bass-Seca Build Bass-Seca After who knows how many years of racing at multiple home and club tracks, my man cave has gotten a new addition built by Art! A small but exciting looking layout of approximately 44 feet for 1:32 racing with plenty of elevation changes themed after Laguna Seca's "Corkscrew". I gave my design to track builder extraordinaire Professor Tschinkel earlier this year and, thanks to Covid restrictions, he built a modular track that could be fairly quickly taken apart and reassembled. Art built the basics at his place and then disassembled it and into a VW Atlas went ALL the pieces and reassembly began at my place. Track reconstruction, lane taping, power and computer, border walls and more now done. Some detail work still to be completed but the track is now operational and the first race done with Joe Guts and I running Group 5 cars. But the track is much more fun with the slower classes! Before racing ever happened though I christened the track with laps done in remembrance, and with cars, from racers who are no longer with us. John F and Paddy you will always be remembered. (The 3rd last picture is John Flinn's MG which set identical times in both lanes) Thanks for all your work Art. It's great!

      Started by: Avatar photoJohnnySlots in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 4 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • New track in the east Basic plans have been drawn up by Art to make a 2-lane new track in my basement. Art was kind enough to take on the task of fitting a small track into a tiny basement. I don't have a name for it yet. Maybe the KRZ Twister? Name suggestions are most welcome. The final dimensions will be on a 5' foot by 10' foot base. The closest rooms to the track are the washroom and kitchen. It should work out well to host races for small groups. Everything in life is time sensitive. I should have done this a few years ago. Thank you to Art for accepting the challenge.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • The new Hot Rod Garage I finally tore apart the workbench and moved it out of the track room. An opportunity to clean up and re-organize. The bench as it used to be. Lots of holes were left in the walls. Oops. Me fix! The bench was moved into the basement kitchen. The drill press is now on the other side of the kitchen, and away from the slot car assembly area. A plywood back was added to the bench. Look wife... no more holes in the walls! (Except for the tire-rack on the right side) I can finally start building cars again. And finish the track room!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Welcome to The Lane Art thanks for adding this page for me, tonight I tracked down the download from the 2015 blog I ran and it contains pictures of the build process for The Lane and also predecessor tracks.   So that will be my material source to start off. The first question might be how did I come up with the name.  Not too far along the build process Art asked me “so what are you going to name it?”.  I thought about it and the next time we met I said it’s called “The Lane”.  Why?  Well my lifelong English soccer [football for the purists] team is Tottenham Hotspur.  The stadium that they played at was called White Hart Lane which was affectionately referred to by supporters as “The Lane”.  To me it implies racing connotations so it seemed a natural choice to call the track that for a number of reasons. So what does it look like?

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • IROC 2024 Series Gents, Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too! Interested? The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery. Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations: Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout; Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone; Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes); Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well); On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races. Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race. Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible. The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models. If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation. Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point... This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly. The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100... Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...) Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant. The following molded colours will become available: Green (sold) Yellow (sold) Red (sold) Blue (sold) Charcoal White Orange (sold) Purple Brown/Rust Pink (sold) Baby Blue Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish. Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Corvair progress, slowly…. Getting there,  I know, I know, do posts 1st, aesthetics last....well, perhaps a slow learner.....I had an opportunity for a few (rare) hours, so decided I would graphic my Corvair kit. All all old homemade decals(work well on white/silver bodies)Awaiting the chassis setup/motor/gears/wheels etc(KRZ chassis, thanks KRZ!)   Made a little 'scoop too'      

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Wouldn’t this be fun!!! Perhaps if we pool ALL of our $$$$$, we could share this for 'runabouts'...LOL   https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1965-brabham-bt14?utm_source=Email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=SF_CC_Global_Daily_v6_17/October/2023&utm_term=&utm_id=425205&sfmc_id=36918294   Wonder if there's a reasonable facsimile of the Transporter in 32'nd scale??   Enjoy!!  

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Recent Group 25 Show The show was a success. But it did have a few set backs. I was not feeling well and arrived very late. No early bird specials for me. Art was held back and could not make it. Everyone wishes him well, and sent greetings. Comparison to last year: Show stats. Contest - 162 entries  Last year 210 entries # through the door....436    Last year…383 I had no desire to buy anything this year. But staring across at Marty and Cindy's tables all day was a temptation in itself. A Ferrari for $15. Someone already started the chassis. Shame. Slot car maybe? I bought this for $20. Thanks Marty and Cindy! Ted and I often trade stuff. He donated this to me. A Strombecker Citroen?! It's in amazing shape except for the tires. Thanks Ted!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • DArt Auto Union Type D This is the season to paint cars. Yesterday was another perfect paint day. So I kept the momentum going. This colour is Tamiya TS-7 racing white. It will match my type C. I can officially start a team. "Club Weisse". No clear-coat required for this lovely pastel colour.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser".

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 9
    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1963 Indy Roadster I found a few links that folks might find interesting when building the car. It is not a slot car build but won first place at the 2016 IPMS Nationals in SC. Parnelli Jones's 1963 Indy 500 Winning Watson Roadster - Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles - IPMS/USA Forums (ipmsusa3.org) The second link is of a Facebook page (embedded in first link), with step by step pictures with comments when you click on the picture. I guess you need to be on FB to see.  The interesting thing I liked is it helped locating where bits go plus it identified the paint colors to use for the Watson Livery. Don't know if it is helpful to anyone but I found it helped me. My model is coming along.  I am going for a Watson Livery.  Mica Blue nose and White Pearl body, a little ambitious for me but what the heck.  I ordered decals and a paint mask to help me along.  The chassis I built 18 months ago for a STP Nova body but was never happy with the body.  It fits the Watson with minimal adjustments. The chassis wheelbase is a touch long (1/4inch) as you will notice in the picture.   So far the car is primed, interior glued in and driver fitted but not glued nor detail painted.                                 

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Austin Healey Sprite I was walking along the front lot earlier looking for sections that still needed raking, when I heard the rumble of an antique motorcycle engine coming around the corner. I turned around and found that it was a tiny bright red Austin Healey Sprite. I remembered that I probably have one of those packed away somewhere in the basement, possibly even in the right scale. I eventually took a look and found a Healey 3000, as well as a 32’nd scale Sprite. It was a nice AirFix box of the 1958-1961 Sprite MkI. (1997 re-box of 1961 tooling).  However, the contents weren’t so nice and I recalled that I had set it aside deciding that it wasn’t worth spending time on it. But seeing the real thing drive by, gave me renewed motivation. Fig. 1:   You can’t judge a book by its cover – you can’t judge a kit by its box-art ! I had built many model cars when I was a kid, but never a 1/32 scale, and this one looks like the tiniest of the tiny. (I use two large magnifying glasses while doing intricate work, but here I could make use of a microscope!)   I started work on it and found that the tooling, moulding, casting were even worse than I had initially thought. The front fender pontoons were lumpy. The three sections making up the front end of the car did not fit properly. The hood seam in front of the windshield was scored different thicknesses from one segment to the next. Door seams were irregular. Rocker panel seams were different heights and shapes between left to right side. Other body features that were supposed to be the same, were different sizes and shapes from each-other, and not symmetrically positioned on the left and right sides. The headlight lenses are nice but the dome sockets they are to fit into on top of the hood are not smooth and semi-circular but are instead elongated leaving excess at the top and a gap at the bottom. There are other inconsistencies that I won’t bother listing, plus more I’m sure to discover. (Once again, it seems that I’ve stumbled into an overly difficult model to work with.)  But I decided to stick with it anyway.  One of the problems for me in this smaller scale, has been motivation, so I decided now that I have a bit, I should make use of it.   Fig. 2:   Sprite in another of the many standard colours, ‘Mint Green’.   I assembled the front end body sections, and started the prep by sanding down those seams and all the lumps on the curved surfaces. I’ve never used body putty on a motorized car, fearing that it may crack under flex during competition, but here I couldn’t avoid it and decided to take the chance. I filled in the top hood seam and the small body-fit gaps in the front, as a start. Fig. 3:   Kit contents.   There is something else about the body that doesn’t seem quite right. I almost bought a 3000 Mk III when I was a youngster, but I don’t know much about the Sprite, so I started searching the references to learn a bit about the car. If I’m going to the trouble of building it, I want to do it right. I couldn’t find matching wheels in my collection, so I tried the body onto a ‘Carrera Go’ chassis, and even at that 1/43 scale, the chassis was too large for this tiny body ( ~10.5 cm x 4 cm; ~4” x 1 ½” ) . With the kit wheels in place, the body looked very high off the tech block. I thought the problem may be that the wheels were out of scale too large. Doing a search and some arithmetic, I found that the kit tires are properly scaled and do correspond to the vintage Sprite tires, “Cross-ply 5.20-13 tyres”, which are apparently 23.1” or 587mm overall diameter (on nominal 13” rims). The kit wheels have a Rim diam = 11mm,  Tire diam = 18mm,  giving a Track clearance = 7mm with tires touching the inside of the fenders, and that already appears far too high for the tiny sportscar. Adding a 2 mm tire/fender clearance on the model, (which would be more realistic and would be needed to allow for minimum body roll), gives 9 mm track clearance, and would convert to 288mm, or 11.3” road clearance on the real car. (That 2mm tire/fender scale clearance converts to only  2 ½ ” tire/inside fender clearance available to the real car, still far too small.)   I don’t own a sports car, but the road clearance from the bottom of the rocker panel of my mini-van is only 8 ½” ; the other cars in the garage are lower.  Since the wheels are to correct scale, the only conclusion I can draw from this analysis is that the model is out of scale too shallow. As a result, they had to cut the wheel arches too close to the top of the body. The shallow body also gives very little clearance for the tires inside the fenders thus the whole body is raised far too high off the track. All of this is even apparent from photos of the real car. (Exterior photos, as well as photos under the bonnet show that there is plenty of space, and structure, between the top of the tire and top of the fender.)   Fig’s.  4 & 5:   Body proportions of the kit and the real car. It’s very obvious from comparison of these two photos, that the model body is out of scale too shallow, streamlined. (Compare the heights of the door panels, the heights of the fenders above the cut-outs, and the space from top of tire to top of fender.) Unfortunately, it’s an effect that can’t be corrected on this model without major surgery. On the other hand, using smaller wheels helps with the body height and track clearance, but makes the wheel cut-outs on the model look even larger .  (I may have to do what I see done on my Ninco XK120 and many other sportscar models - build a step drop between the body and chassis. Even on the real car, some chassis components show below the bottom edge of the body. However, such a step will limit my chassis design and it’s dynamics.)   This thing has given me so much trouble; Looks like my initial assessment was correct and I should have just left it in the box! In any case, now it’s become a challenge! So I have been searching for correctly scaled rims and tires. I have worked out four possible chassis designs to fit this tiny body, but until I have the wheels in hand I can’t finalize the adjustments on the body or the detailed dimensions of the chassis. I’m looking for rims 13” nominal which usually work out of be 13mm diameter at the centre ridge and 11.5 mm diameter at the outside edge, depending on the manufacturer. I need 5mm wide for the front pair and 7mm for the rear. Corresponding tires would be 18mm diam before truing.  It's going to be difficult to compensate for the shallow body; I may have to do other adjustments, but I want to get the best balance possible.   I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.   Vincent Van Gogh    

      Started by: Avatar photoFelix in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • What kits are you buying, building, working on during isolation? I'm always looking for different and odd kits to build for the future. Here are some recent finds... Luis helped me pick this up from around the Hamilton area. Thank you Luis! The Triumph Herald is an odd looking duck. This Spitfire kit came from one of the members of Group-25. These just arrived from HobbyLink Japan. I finally got a Carrera Panamericana Beetle! What is everyone up to? What are you building or buying for future, possible builds? Post any build at all. Nothing is too strange. Cool scenery is interesting too. I may not build every kit. But it's fun poking through the boxes and deciding. :-)

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: Anonymous in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Ford Model T Hot Rod Greetings from Scarborough.  It's time to contribute to this Forum after reading it for so long.  Although I race with "the other Club", I did race a few R32 events several years ago and Hot Rods was one of the classes.   After using a borrowed car, I decided to scratch build my own.   Despite being in the Hobby since the 60's (off and on), I never a soldered a chassis together so this was going to be interesting.   I used the Lindberg 1925 Ford Model T and added a box (made from styrene) in the rear to hide the crown gear and AB Slot motor bracket. It has  RS Slot wheels with Dart inserts and Dart tires of course.   For a first attempt, I was quite pleased with it.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • New Scratch32 Classifieds Area We now have a FREE classifieds area on Scratch32! Just click on 'Classifieds' in our top menu to see what is for sale (or wanted to buy). Or select 'Add a listing' from the 'Classifieds' drop down menu to post your ad right away! Users with a Scratch32 account can now post ads containing detailed descriptions and pictures of items they wish to sell privately for FREE. These ads can be read by anyone, including those without an account. [So you can post an ad and then link it anywhere else.] It is also easy for every user to manage their ads. All ads expire in 60 days. There are just three limitations: Only model slot car related content is permitted; No junk - only items of quality that you would or have used yourself; No retail sales or ads for inventories of items. Scratch32 will reserve the right to remove any ad(s) that do not comply.

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Ford Escort Mk1 with KRZ chassis Not sure what forum sub group to post in but this seemed most appropriate.  This car started out as a circa 1990s model.  A friend of mine then painted and decaled it several years ago, I fitted a PCS plastic chassis, Pendle wheels but was never happy with it until a Ken's KRZ chassis arrived. Finished (almost) car below. One the moderator approves I will show the chassis build.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Axle spacers and crown gears This combination of spacers was recently used on the Beetle chassis. I measured the distance between the bushings. Then measured the crown thickness. I was very lucky in that the numbers were close enough without having to use too many spacers to take up the gap. The exact right number. They are sitting in order of how they sit on the axle. 2mm brass and an 0.010" inch steel spacer.    Crown gear.    1.5mm brass and 2 x 0.005" inch steel spacers. Before gluing the motor in, the 0.010" spacer was installed on the same side as the 2 x 0.005" spacers. The motor was epoxied in place holding the gears tight to each other. After the 5-minute epoxy hardened. The axle was removed, and re-installed with the 0.010" washer on the other side to create an exact gear mesh clearance. The crown has raised letters that can interfere with measuring it. So I sand it smooth with 400-grit paper on a flat surface. I make small circles so as not to sand any side down more than the other. What I found by mistake is that you can easily take a tenth of a millimeter off the width of the crown to help it fit better. Use the least amount of spacers as possible during assembly. They can have a bit of a spring-like reaction in larger numbers. Best regards, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 23
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1931 Ford Pickup Lindberg kit which I have had for a while.   Parts are from the usual sources, RSSlot wheels, Darts inserts, BWA 050 motor, scratch chassis.  Runs well, quite smooth.  Added a oak strip bed for effect.  Kind of experimented on the paint, dark red first coat, sanded then red on top.  I was look for an aged look but not sure it came off :unsure: .  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa Build I was fortunate enough to get 2-unbuilt Corvair kits at the same time. The best of everything from the two went to Art. I'm building this one as a test. This one was missing the front bumper, which isn't really an issue for a Corvair race car. Art has the front bumper to make complete Corsa kits. The paint is Testors "Star Spangled Blue". The colour on lid looks great. The nonsense coming out of the can is another thing altogether. :negative: More to follow...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Super Roadster I became motivated to build the first model of my double Lindberg hot rod kit.   There are enough parts to build 3 variations of each model but I created a hybrid.  As you will be able to tell, I like chrome.   I used the kit chassis and then cut it back, then clamped and glued to the internal body sides.  That allowed for a fairly simple chassis. The chassis is secured by a single screw into the engine block.   The rear axle is secured in place by 1/8th inch eyelets which maintains body ride height.  The decals  are from the kit and I think they are kind of cool. Color is French Blue which is similar to kit color.   Wheel inserts are from my parts bin.   Wheels from Pendles and RS Slots.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • D'Art BRM 578 The Hot Rod Garage was open for business today. I need to solder a pinion gear. Then the motor can be glued in place and wired. It took a lot of extra sanding to get the chassis to fit the back of the body. I had to install the bearings on the inside because the flanges were in the way. I hope to have it running later today sometime. Very little room for the rear body post so it had to be drilled offset. Everything is a super tight fit at the back of the car. But it all fits. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building.  Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960).  Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy.  A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor.  I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it.  The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view...  The lighting is poor in this photo.  Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann   My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week.  Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 13
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1951 Tudor I thought I might as welladd my Tudor as well. The colour is a proxy for the Ford colour plalette of the era albeit a few shades lighter.  The car  weighs in at 82 grams, 10/30 gearing, motor is a Scaly S can.  The car runs @ 7.5 secs on my track (which is a bit longer but less technical than The Ring).  My original Tudor runs an 8 sec with  BWA motor.  Pic to follow.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • 1963 Thunderbird This is a 1/32 scale Gunze Sangyo model kit.  I had never heard of these model kits until I saw three models that Ken had built a few months ago.  I was inspired by the quality of the parts and the fine details incorporated in this kit and I always loved the look of the Thunderbird.  The model falls into the new category of Boulevard Cruisers. A special thanks to Ken who assisted with the chassis build and was a great painting coach. The model comes with a back seat and roof.  I preferred the look of the convertible with two seats and head rests. The BWA Scan motor is glued to the chassis using epoxy in an anglewinder configuration.  Geared 14 pinion x 30 spur gear. Here is the model with a headless driver.  I considered installing a female as the pilot in this model but didn't have a usable torso with bust, therefore A street version pilot without a Helmut will be installed.  The kit comes with two different sets of chrome wheels, I carved out the inserts and will be using them to finish this model. Very pleased with how well this car runs.  I think the headless driver would have been pulled over for high speed driving if the cops weren't in lockdown mode ;-). Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1949 Ford Tudor in orange This 1949 Lindberg Ford Tudor Coupe might be the most prolific model in this club with many fine examples.  Having built two already, I had a third kit sitting in my cabinet for about three years.  Due to an abundance of time with the shelter in place orders, I circled my wagons back to it and decided it would make a bright hot rod with a BWA slimline motor. Many thanks to Ken, who took the time to assist on this build. The BWA motor is simply glued onto the chassis with epoxy.  Gearing is 10P x 23P Looking forward to racing this model. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Austin Healey 3000 This is an Aurora kit purchased from the Group 25 show in  March 2019.  The kit body came in 3 pieces, top, and two sides.  I really dislike 3 piece kits as they are tricky to fit together and get a good fit, this one was no different as it took a lot of filling and sanding along the joins.  I am going to post a series of pictures of specs, body and chassis and hope you enjoy.  The paint is Testors Custom Red Metal Flake plus Testors Semi-Gloss Clear.   Front indicator and rear tail lights are stick ons from Pendles.  Windshield is custom made from brass and painted as no screen was in the kit.    Interior is leatherette left over from a chair covering over card stock as original seats would not fit in.  As Bugs use to say … that's all folks! C

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts.  Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair.  Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes.  Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires.  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 7
    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Keeping track of paint cans Running out of paint near the end of painting a car will ruin a paint job. A full can of Tamiya spray paint ranges from 133-grams to 138-grams. Empty, the can weighs 60-grams. (cap included) It takes more paint to cover a car when you make an extreme colour change. It also take more paint to cover a car when you use paints that are weak in pigment strength like yellow. You can sometimes get 2-paint jobs out of a can of paint if you don't fight the colour. Sometimes it's just not possible. I weigh the cans before, and after using them to see if there's enough paint for a second car. For me, the can becomes touch-up paint only once they go below 95-grams. Specially yellow. The last 5 to 7-grams grams of any can are often not useful because the spray becomes erratic near the end. All used cans get marked with a permanent marker stating the weight, and are weighed with the cap on. Testors paint cans are about the same. Best of luck with what ever you're painting and building!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 4
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body.   The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts.

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1951 Indy Kurtis Offy Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one.  Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process on one using my oodles of free time.  The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat.  The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches.  A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight.  The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide.  Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis. For the rear maybe the same with the chassis linked in to the brass tubing but need to think that through.  Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 14
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 12
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1951 INDIANAPOLIS KURTIS OFFY Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one.  Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process using my oodles of free time.  The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat.  The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches.  A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight.  The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide.  Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis just epoxied in place. I am undecided  whether to use wire or a brass plate for the chassis so that needs more thought.   On the body I am using Cheetah manifold headers, have expanded the carburetor air intakes and will use chrome carbs from another model and will add a chrome fuel cap – holes all drilled.   Wheels are from RSSlots and are spare from my Bugatti build.  Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 1
    • 4 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1951 INDIANAPOLIS KURTIS OFFY Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one.  Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process using my oodles of free time.  The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat.  The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches.  A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight.  The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide.  Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis just epoxied in place. I am undecided  whether to use wire or a brass plate for the chassis so that needs more thought.   On the body I am using Cheetah manifold headers, have expanded the carburetor air intakes and will use chrome carbs from another model and will add a chrome fuel cap – holes all drilled.   Wheels are from RSSlots and are spare from my Bugatti build.  Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 3
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • SCC Canada Decals #$@!ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Hello lads, had to re-number a car for pending event, had purchased SCC 'White' numerals, first time using the product, OMFG, I'm sure some within the GTA heard some unsavory language last evening... Took 14 of them to successfully transfer 3!!! They kept disintegrating, separating, no matter duration of time in water nor temperature. Curious as to whether anyone else has used (tried to)? If so, any success, what's your secret? :negative: :negative:

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Decals

    • 6
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      Jimbo

    • Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red  and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 10
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Group-25 Model Car Builders meeting invitation Group-25 has extented an invitation to the S32/R32 slot car club to join them for an afternoon of model and slot car building show & tell. We can share our skills with each other about building, painting, detailing, etc... These are the guys hosting the Slot Car and Model show in March. Please bring some of your cool stuff to show. There will be a track or two set up for some beater cars that can afford to break. Don't expect to run your nice cars there. The track is merely for newbie entertainment and to get people interested in slot cars. That's our goal too. Just as an example. DB can show off his green Ford Tudor he just brought to the Carrera Panamericana. The wiper blade marks on the windshield and general weathering are cool and inspirational. We can learn from these guys too. Some of the Group-25 members are master-builders. Check out some of the pics on their site from previous meetings. https://www.group25.org/meetings.htm The date - Feb 9th.  The time - 3pm until 7pm.  Location - Armour Heights Community Center on the southwest corner of Avenue road and Wilson avenue. Take Avenue Road exit and head south of the 401 to the first light. Here is a photo of the cool stuff various members gave to me for free to make into slot cars. Nice bunch of people. The file and brush are Christmas gifts from Cindy and Marty at Toys4Everyone. Everyone in the club got them. I hope a few can join us for a day of fun. Thank you. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

    • 3
    • 11
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 8
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Coppa D’oro Trials Some time was found to run trials for the new Scratch32 Golden Era Pre-War models - and so the Coppa D'oro was born.[foogallery id="8039"] After nearly a century it is never too late...

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 6
    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • Ferrari 750 Monza Scaglietti Here is an extensively modified Ferrari 290MM body kit which was turned into a 750 Monza as raced by Fon Portago in the final edition of La Carrera Panamericana. A single plastic exhaust (with exposed muffler) is used on the left hand side - and the exposed tail pipe is aluminium tube attached to the chassis. And in an effort to keep the look of this model period any temptation to lower or slam the body was snuffed - there is room above the motor to lower the body - but that would just not look right. This model in its current configuration utilizes an 18k Ninco large can motor for competition in the SP+ class. The added RPM (and torque) offset its overall weight (115g) to make this model perform and handle exceptionally well.  "Look Ma - No Screws!" The body is attached to the chassis using one of my favourite methods - hinged side pods glued to balsa wood (epoxy) - using piano wire sleeved with brass tube inside brass tube on either side... The beauty is that all you need to do to remove the body is pull out the flexible wire tabs from brass tubes attached to the rear bushing uprights... no screws to fiddle with, work loose or lose on track... Just a simple wire/brass chassis with your basic .032" brass tongue front end and flat brass motor bracket to allow the motor/pinion to be swapped out. All of these parts were made using household hand tools although a trip to the garage to the drill press would have been quicker... square Parma oilite bushings were used at the rear. The angled wire braces on either side of the motor sit very tight to the motor giving the chassis added stiffness. The motor itself is angled slightly downwards towards the front of the chassis, both to lower the COG and to ensure the pinion is properly lined up with the crown gear.  Round oilite bushings holding the front axle are reinforced with a 'chuck' bar soldered to each bushing and to the brass plate. The guide is a clone of the Ninco classic guide made by DArt. Crown gear is slot.it 28t, axles are professor motor, a DuBro #2 washer is soldered to the end of the front axle for independents, all four wheels are modified BWA, inserts and urethane tires are DArt - the tires are the club series tamper proof marked DArt CT0101 tire using a 1/8" white dot through the meat... which were leftovers from a past MiniGrid order. ...gearing and motor can yet be changed to increase performance - this chassis should be able to comfortably handle any motor up to 25k... and one day it might... :good:  

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      Anonymous

    • Chassis acceptability Art, quick question.  To finish my 356 I used a Strombecker brass chassis with some modification.  So is a custom body mated to a Strombecker brass chassis eligible for scratch 32?  I am thinking not but wanted to check as I thought that was dealt with on the Forum but couldn't locate it.  Thanks

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 4
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Value Village – limited supply of 1/32 and 1/25 kits My local Value Village has a supply of kits.  Most are 1/25  for less than $10 - Revell, AMT, Linburgh.  If I was into that scale I would have bought them. What I did pick up were 3 1/32 scale Testors "Turn of the Century Automobiles",   A 1930 Packard, 1934 Duesenburg and a 1935 Duesenburg SSJ.  $3.99 each.  The bodies are die cast metal.  I had thoughts of converting to a slot car but they are heavy (close to 150 grams) so I am not sure how practical that is. Anybody have any experience in doing that sort of conversion.   But the parts are worth the purchase - plastic wheels, bumpers, engines, mirrors etc.  Probably build them as static model for the layout.   Here are a few pics of  the 1930 and 1935 models. Folks might want to swing by their local  VV to see what they have as the part might be useful for your pre war builds.  :yes: ?

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

    • 2
    • 3
    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking.   Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E   Thanks to Art for his great photos!    

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoJoe

    • Porsche 356 SL It is a resin body and not a very good one (you get what you pay for).  Spend almost a year trying to fix it up and still it is marginal.  Decided to paint it up and decal anyway.  It looks big but is under scale on length and height.  Width is about 9-10 mm over scale. Porsche 356 SL – 1953 – 1488cc.  1953 Carrera PanAmericana S1.6 class.  Car #199.  Did not finish, over time limit.  Driver - Joaquin Castillo de la Fuente.  #356__2-054 Still working on the picture  :wacko:

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 3
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Chaparral 2A Not really scratch built but I will ask for forgiveness later :unsure: The Strombecker body I have had for years and always meant to paint plus I had a spare strombecker brass chassis.  I opted to use a 1/32 set up which has worked out well.  Motor is a Plafit Fox 11 (25k). Gears are slot-it. Wheels and inserts are BWA - though they are not quite right but they were in my spare box.  Tires are DArts.  Windscreen is cracked but a Future treatment has improved it while I look for another one (I know, good luck). Anyway, thought I would share.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • '55 Daihatsu This was my door prize at the December IROC meet.  Decided to put it together over the holidays. I added Slotter wheels on the rear, gearing and a motor with the intention of having it run.  But alas was stumped by the guide flag issue.  So having it as a static model for the time being.  Added a wood bed using popsicle sticks and a couple of coats of Citadel ‘Nuln Oil’ Shade.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 14
    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the  IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width.  The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred.  Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire  and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height.   As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year.  :yahoo: Dave  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • 60-70s Sponsors and Signage Hi lads, if you're interested, I have a file(too large to upload here) that contains many 'signs' and or logo's you could use to decorate your track, or convert to decals for cars. Let me know and I can e-mail to you. Simply click/grab the image, and you can resize.   :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Decals

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    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

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