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Someone noticed something in the ditch…
Curiosity got the better of them…
Wow! Looks like the abandoned wreck of a small silver sportscar!
A Porsche 356 SL from the 1953 running of the famous Carrera Panamericana! And it looks to be in fairly good condition too!
After being pulled out of the ditch this abandoned race car was given a tear down, parts were ordered, and some research done… revealing the following according to Racing Sportscars:
Hmmm… over time limit due to an accident…
Clearly it saw better days before the start of competition – all shiny and new!
Among the company of giants…
Notice some new sponsorship added along with the obligatory Carrera plates… time for the local crew of garagistas lead by their sponsor DArturo to restore this abandoned model to some sort of former glory regardless of how disappointing the outcome in the Carrera had been…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
This is your list of models to be presented to the grid for La Carrera Panamericana XIII:
Class Year Race Class # Manufacturer Type 50SP 1950 T 18 Ford 6 50SP 1954 TE19 262 Volkswagen 1200 De Luxe 50SP Plus 1950 T 50 Ford Tudor 50SP Plus 1953 SP16 199 Porsche 356SL 50SP 1952 SP 4 Mercedes Benz 300 SL Coupe 50SP 1952 SP 6 Mercedes Benz 300SL Spyder 50SP Plus 1952 SP 21 Ferrari 250 Monza Scarrietti Spyder 50SP 1954 SP15 56 Porsche 550 Spyder 50SP Plus 1953 TS 226 Ford 6 50SP 1951 T 7 Shaguar Xk 129 50SP 1950 T 52 Oldsmobile 88 Good Luck!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Thanks for hosting another wonderful race night at The River!
My sincerest apologies to GI for taking you out multiple times with my Cougar… cost you at least second place in the Trans Am race… punishment was swift in the paddock from my own crew… and they ate all the Greek donut holes!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Excellent DB!
The track looks great! Looking forward to your posts!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Great sleuthing F1nutz! Now you also have the Narrow front optional parts, a selection of pinions and some other goodies that come in the Readyset.
As you mention, the great thing is that the Grp C bodies (and the Toyota GT One) are all interchangeable on the same chassis configuration (MR03-RWD-W-LM) provided you also use the recommended wheels for that body which will have the correct offsets. All of the Autoscale painted bodies come with the correct wheels, as does the Mercedes C9 white body kit. Unfortunately the Mazda 787B (and the Toyota GT One) white kit(s) do not. I haven’t been able to source (or order) a Porsche 962 white kit yet so I can’t comment if they do, but I suspect they don’t either. The Wide RWD chassis configuration, long wheelbase (102mm) and Low Motor mount with damper works really well out of the box too… and the slightly beefier front and rear tires look great too!
If you need to replace your tires DArt has identically sized urethane slick replacements for all of the Mini Z wheels (RWD, AWD, FWD):
- Z8.5L(40) – low profile narrow (8.5mm) width regular (20mm) diameter 40 shore (pair);
- Z11L(40) – low profile wide (11mm) width regular (20mm) diameter 40 shore (pair);
- Z8.5S(40) – regular profile narrow (8.5mm) width small (16mm) diameter 40 shore (pair); and
- Z11(40) – regular profile wide (11mm) width regular (20mm) diameter 40 shore (pair).
And the following slick sets (two pair):
- Z8.5S(40) & Z11(40) – set of 4 for Grp C; and
- Z8.5L(40) & Z11L(40) – set of 4 for GT and most other models.
$8/pair or $12/set
Unlike our slot car racing groups you can use any untreated tire in our Mini Z group (stock and aftermarket, any material, any compound). The new stock rubber tires that come with any new Mini Z work well on most surfaces so no need to upgrade right away.
The new Mazda 787B painted/assembled body comes right out of the box with the rear wing angled slightly (down on the passenger side) but this can be corrected with a little blueprinting. I also removed two dimples to allow the the wing to pivot slightly in case of a side impact (rather than crack) and I’m glad that I did.
The low mount motor case (just the part) that comes standard in the Mazda 787B Readyset is impossible to source, so if you purchase the more commonly available MM (mid mount motor case) that is standard on most RWD Readysets with a 98mm wheelbase (or smaller) you can nearly match the overall performance of the LM by adding your own damper plate. Anyone interested can take a look at the one I made for my McLaren Lark F1 GTR.
The Mazda 787B and Mercedes C9 white kits are still available – but I’m not sure for how long – before they become ‘unobtainium’ just like the Porsche 962…
Decals in 1:28 are also very rare so if you ever stumble across any make sure to hit the ‘buy’ button. I purchased an original set of ‘MZ’ decals for the Mazda I found in Japan (on a translated website that was extremely challenging to order from) for $16 but haven’t heard back from the seller about the cost of shipping (which is added on in a separate transaction) so we’ll see…
Nothing ventured, nothing gained – which makes finally running them just so much more rewarding… can’t wait till Saturday afternoon!!! See you then F1nutz!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
The first run of the 1:32 Mirage BRM M2 Body Kit is sold out!
Thank you to those who purchased this kit – and received a $10 discount by doing so beforehand!
I will be bringing several pre-paid orders with me to Nova Ridge and also to the Group 25 show for pickup…
See everyone there!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
We have our entry numbers sorted for the IROC Challenge:
- 28 – green
- 3 – orange
- 7 – yellow
- 9 – light blue
- 8 – red
- 5 – royal blue
- 2 – purple (placeholder)
- 4 – charcoal (placeholder)
All IROC participants will qualify all 8 models. Lane/rotation position for a model determined by qualifying result – Group B slower (4) & Group A faster (4) – Lane choice in each group picked by builder (in qualifying order) and placeholders occupy leftover lanes. Should there not be 8 models (entrants and placeholders) lanes will be shut down (ie. 6 models = Group B 3 lanes and Group A 3 lanes).
All participants will race group B models first then group A models last.
Heat results (A + B) will be combined and participant results will be based on the total. Manufacturer/Builder results will be based on the result of the model regardless of heat, minus fastest and slowest.
If you have any Qs please ask.
Remember, if you can’t make it out to race your model can still participate to score you points in the Manufacturer/Builder category – just let someone know your preferred lane choice order (ie. Red, Yellow, Blue and Green) (otherwise your model will be placed in the first available lane – Green, Yellow, Red or Blue).
See everyone Saturday!
PS – Don’t forget your models for the R32 support races!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looks great JMSracer!
BTW, Only your light blue model is eligible for participation in this IROC series… but the other is eligible for the R32 Classic Era Prototype & Sportscar class…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Magnetically fixed inner wall added!
Using magnets (every couple of feet) to fix the inside wall in place works VERY well. Forgiving enough without being too easy to move – and I can always add more magnets if warranted – perhaps every foot or so…I used steel plates designed for cabinet doors which are small, rectangular in shape and less than 2mm thick – so I fixed them in place to the paper track surface using double sided carpet tape. Leftover slot car magnets were fixed within a channel made inside the foam barriers – on their side – to give the epoxy maximum surface area. So far so good!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Excellent DB! I’m so glad to hear that you like it!
Your yellow Ferrari was a great choice of colour BTW! Here are a few snaps I took before sending it off.
I took the liberty of adding your number, installing your windscreen (and side windows) plus fixing your pilot which you can either keep and just add the card provided or remove and tint or smoke your clear windows – your choice…
Make sure to keep us all posted with your progress!
Good Luck with your build!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Gentlemen,
After some elbow grease I’ll be providing each of you with a modified cockpit windscreen (with side windows), modified painted pilot and a card to add to your body kits.
Unmodified Pilot with uncut Card provided – modified Pilot to have the top of his helmet cut flat You have a choice of how to use these parts:
- Windscreen & Side/Door Windows – carefully fix in place using a clear two part 5 minute epoxy. If not adding the pilot with card simply paint the inside of your clear windscreen and windows black or a smoke colour. Done!
- Painted Pilot – if using the supplied pilot position the pilot and fix (glue) the flat portion of his helmet directly to the underside of the roof with the same epoxy. Then cut the supplied card to size and fix in place covering the entire cockpit area. You should also fix the underside of the pilot’s arms and torso to the card (simply apply a bit of epoxy to the pilot when fixing the cut card underneath).
Done!
When fixing/gluing the windscreen and side/door windows in place:
- place each piece in position using tape on the topside to keep them in place;
- apply a bead of clear two part 5 minute epoxy between the edges of each piece and the body – be careful not to use too much – you don’t want it leaking through any gaps to the exposed topside;
- remove the tape when the epoxy has cured.
I separated the original one piece windscreen into three pieces to make more room for the pilot and even then I had to cut off most of the top of the helmet to make him (or her) fit inside the space provided for the cockpit. Either use the pilot (with card underneath) or paint the windscreen/windows black or a smoke colour.
Regarding roundels/numbers – if the glue on your roundel stickers is not cooperating you can try using Scotch brand double sided indoor carpet tape (the thin stuff) underneath to keep them in place.
Also, your rear roundel sticker can be placed either on the rear right fender or if that is causing problems just inside the fender behind the rear louvered window. Make sure to angle it wherever you place it.
In addition to the roundels please feel free to add stripes or any other period livery detail (ie. advertising – Shell, Sandeman, Martini, Jagermeister, Gulf, etc.).
Make sure to start a topic on your own IROC build in our Scratch Built Models forum.
Good Luck!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Well,
The Zing test is coming along nicely… now I’ve added some white lines to help sight the car as it approaches the corners on both ends of the back straight. Didn’t realize how important this is and why racing on a single colour surface towards an obstacle is so much more difficult without them… and I don’t want to learn the hard way either. Now it is not just more comfortable approaching a corner at high speed but it makes it so much easier to set up the corner and plan your racing line through.
So far with my testing on the Zing I’ve drawn several conclusions:
- a small 17′ x 8′ (or more) footprint works well and is a worthwhile endeavor. A 28 or 30″ wide straightaway and 24″ wide corners also seem more than adequate – but testing with additional models on track is needed to see if the track width needs to be increased in the corners, the straight, or both – but one thing is certain – the footprint size is just fine. In fact, some of the Kyosho brand on road foam tracks (now discontinued) came with 60cm (24″) wide lane widths throughout (using 30cm square tiles).
- a painted flat/primer acrylic surface together with untrued urethane tires offers plenty of grip for a smaller space allowing more precise control – without ever flipping the MR03-RWD-LM Grp C model that I’m using. Handling characteristics for this RWD model with the unaltered stock setup are fantastic! Slight under steer under hard acceleration through a corner and the opposite under braking. A very nice feel and level of responsiveness. Now I can’t do donuts though…
- the raised 2mm red curb sections fixed to the white curb flat cardstock base still allow the model to run over them but because they are a little bumpy they’ll discourage overly aggressive curb cutting while still helping those that just touch them with their inside front wheel to turn in a little sharper.
- painted white lines defining the surface edges (especially on straights) where there are no painted curbs help sight the models approaching corners and are a must.
- playing on the floor works and there is a lot of forgiving runoff area should you go wide but the constant bending and kneeling on the hard floor to work on the track, to keep it relatively clean and to retrieve your model after a run is tough on the knees and back. Raising the track about a foot from the floor would make playing so much more comfortable without compromising your racing view. Placing it on a frame also opens up the possibility for elevation and camber – we’ll see…
- EVA foam borders 12mm high are the ticket provided there is some give in addition to the foam itself – they must deflect and not be fixed in place otherwise they will still crack or break a Kyosho hard body. For instance, simply placing a 2″ wide solid piece of EVA foam against a wall baseboard isn’t good enough. Better to place a 1/2″ wide strip with narrow 1 1/2″ long perpendicular pieces resting against the wall baseboard (or hard track edge on a table top) every 6, 9 or 12″ or so… and fixing them only where they butt up against the wall baseboard (or hard track edge)… magnets are the other option especially for inside borders… more testing next week on these options…
- making a lightweight table top surface using a pine/cedar frame, short folding legs and 2.7mm ply in 4 or 5 sections that can be set up or broken down in less than 10 minutes by a single person (with the sections possibly stored back to back on their side on a narrow dolly) is possible (and portable). Detail, such as magnetic barriers, buildings, lights, billboards and other scenic ‘island’ features can be removed and stored in a box… who knows…
After I test the barriers on the Zing v1 I might go on to a v2 floor test:
Home Depot carries a thick protective floor covering paper called ‘RAM Board’ that comes 38″ x 50ft (or 100ft if needed) – this should eliminate the bumps with painting regular paper – and with fewer seams will give a smoother surface that could be rolled up like a carpet…
I might just skip the floor version and go straight to the table top for v2… we’ll see…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
There are no specs apart from using the supplied parts as is and four racing numbers on roundels (hood, doors, pilot’s right side rear quarter panel top on an angle).
True your tires to any diameter and cut them to any width you think best but make sure the orange dot is visible.The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Time to figure out something of an infield style layout. Some key considerations for me:
- Curbs, transitions and everything fixed to the on road track surface must have a transition or height of no more than 2mm so that these hard body models can manage without snagging them (or tearing them up);
- Barriers will be EVA (Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate Copolymer) foam preferably 3 oz. weight (softest) and between 3/8″ – 1/4″ (or 12mm) in height – no taller – to avoid snagging rear wings or any other fragile body detail;
- Barriers must be fixed to the borders or track surface with some sort of detachable system so that they may be removed, added whenever the infield layout changes or simply break away in the case of a severe impact. Circular holes cut to fit a heavy object such as a hockey puck placed inside the barrier or magnets recessed into the foam attracted to thin steel plates fixed to the track are two simple options that I’ll try; I like the magnets because they are small and can be hidden in scale style narrow walls or ‘Jersey’ barriers… it is important that these barriers lie flat so that the models don’t submarine – which not only defeats their purpose but also causes lots of damage to the fragile antennae, mirrors, wipers, etc.
I picked up a pack of TrafficMaster (Home Depot Brand) EVA foam floor tiles (12mm thick) from Home Depot for $18 for six – light grey and dark grey – 3 of each covering 24 sq. ft. – to cut up into barriers. EVA foam tiles can be cut cleanly (and channeled) on your table saw or band saw BTW…
Painting the EVA foam works but it will rub off… something to keep in mind if you plan to use EVA foam tiles as a racing surface. This foam doesn’t give much grip unless it is damp – another thing to keep in mind…
Let’s make some curbs and infield sections using white cardboard as the base and fixing 2mm EVA red foam squares (from the dollar store) on top. We’ll eventually fix these curbs to the track surface using Scotch brand double sided carpet tape (the indoor version works well for smooth surfaces but for rough or painted surfaces the outdoor version is much better but almost double the price):
For now we’ll simply place these loose around the unpainted floor plan to test – in various sizes and radii. I like the straight up against the back wall with a decreasing radius 1st corner (going counter clockwise).
Time to paint the paper – after stretching it out and fixing it to the floor using duct tape – using an ultra flat primer… then re-stretch the paper after the paint dried… and tape down all of the edges so that the transition for cars running wide is nominal – and more importantly without the possibility of submarining when re entering the track.
Now lets fix the curbs and infield cardboard sections to the painted paper racing surface using Scotch brand outdoor double sided carpet tape.
Notice that I added some sandpaper to a few portions of the infield… let’s test that out too… I’m thinking 2 or 3″ wide sandpaper edges around the outside of the layout to improve the grip of any models sliding wide… do they provide more grip than the painted surface? Who knows… I think they’ll offer less grip which may be even more realistic… but they look like a gravel runoff without doing anything more… if they flip a car they’ll be removed but that’s why we test…
Time to have some fun!
The remaining ripples in the paper are not a problem for the models to cope with but in any final version of this floor or table layout a thick cardboard underlay or 2.7mm ply will be used. Remember, this is a test layout to sort out what works and what doesn’t… so far so good…
Next up some infield removable raised walls/barriers…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Now testing what’s possible in the space… These small scale models are not happy running on the tile floor – the wide tile spacing and recessed grout lines are too bumpy for such small diameter wheels – the paper/poster template provides a much more forgiving surface despite the taped seams. Grip on the paper is better than on the tile floor but still not as good as what I’m looking for. But it is a start.
Round paper disks (with a penny glued to each centre) lie flat on the paper track template to delineate the course. To make changes these can be moved around quickly.
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Yes JMSracer, you are absolutely correct – I forgot. I need to avoid getting involved when it isn’t necessary… just let the process already in place handle the details since my memory isn’t as reliable.
I’m relieved that you picked an alternative #…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Excellent work Luis! Did u clear coat those cars after adding the decals? Where did you get the decals?
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looks fantabulous Luis! Your model building skills, painting and detail work have really improved since you’ve been with us! So nice to see such quality work and attention to detail! I love the lettering detail on your sidewalls!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Gentlemen,
The kits are on their way out today. There are a few changes to what you will receive and why.
The kits are going out without the windscreen and interior. Why? Because after test fitting the interior that I prepared for this body kit I realized that an inline motor configuration would be difficult to mate without modifying the interior… so rather than use it we’ll go without an interior and I will haze or darken the windscreen – and pass the modified windscreen out (or mail) in a week or so… at least this way you can start building as planned and simply glue in the windscreen whenever you receive it.
The bodies are detailed but without numbers or a specific livery. I’ve painted the tail lamps, exhaust, headlight lens trim, fuel caps and added a little shading to some parts of the body. I’ve also added a NART Ferrari badge on both sides of the body. You can choose your racing number and either add it yourself or I can give you some peel and stick numbers on white or yellow roundels – each body should be given four numbers (all on roundels) – one on the front, one on each door and one at an angle over the pilot’s rightside rear quarter panel. If you don’t have numbers/roundels or you are unsure where to put them please ask me – I’d be happy to apply them for you too. Please reply to this thread or email me to reserve your number – let’s not have duplicate numbers! I’ll get the ball rolling with my own green entry which is #28.
If you wish to leave your body as is after adding your number then that’s fine. If you add any stripes or advertising please keep it period. Depending on what livery detail you wish to add to your body you may or may not want to paint the rear window louvers flat black but another colour. I would be happy to paint your rear louvers flat black if you wish to keep it simple – again, just let me know…
The kit comes with club series urethane tires marked with a small orange dot – these tires are mandatory, as are the wheels and inserts supplied. The inserts are finished so no need to paint or weather them. They were cast with brass dust to give them their special colour. If you would like to add a centre nut to the insert you are welcome to do so. I have a wheel nut that fits nicely…
As for the body, you are welcome to strengthen any part of it. You can also remove the front centre body post if you don’t wish to use it. Remember, you can mount your body however you wish.
I hope this helps. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask or email me.
Happy building!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Gentlemen,
I’ll be delivering the finished kits to the ‘super six’ this Saturday, January 6, 2024 at Nova Ridge (the first R32 race of 2024). This will give everyone 4 weeks to get their models ready for the inaugural IROC Challenger Race.
DB your kit will be posted later this week.
I’ll post pics of the finished liveries in due course… stay tuned!
If anyone else cannot make it this Saturday let me know…
Here’s to 2024 and what should be a great year for IROC racing!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looks fast just sitting there… Ken’s right, if it’s an NSR it will run very well – a motor upgrade may help but no need to…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looks great so far Porsche911! It will make a perfect Trans Am Plus or SCCA/USRRC Sportscar (or SCCA/USRRC Plus) – I can’t recall if it ever raced at Sebring or Daytona in an endurance event – if so then also a 1960’s Endurance Sportscar…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Happy New Year Ken & here’s to looking forward in 2024 to all of the racetrack shenanigans, duels and laughs that it will bring!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Merry Christmas to everyone on Scratch32.com and a big thank you to those who purchased their 2024 IROC Challenger Series Entries! Now that the deadline has passed I can confirm that we’ve got 6 purchased entries and I’ll prepare an additional 2 RTR entries to complete two full rotations of 4…
Liveries are being completed right now…
Starting February 3rd the featured ‘super six’ will be eligible to race 8 IROC entries – in addition to two R32 classes beforehand and two R32 classes afterwards. I’ll begin adding racing details to our already scheduled 2024 IROC dates… stay tuned!
I can’t wait – this is going to be fun!!! Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Thank you for posting Ken! Those large scale boulevard cruisers look great!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Our racing calendar now includes the IROC Challenger Series starting monthly on February 3, 2024 and thereafter on the 1st Saturday of every month for 2024. Some R32 and S32 classes will sandwich the IROC series on those Saturdays so that we’ll all get plenty of racing in. Those not participating directly in the IROC Challenger series will still be encouraged to marshal our IROC series. I would encourage all of you who have not yet signed up to reserve a livery for yourself otherwise you will be missing out.
As last fall the 3rd Saturday continues to feature Runabouts for S24 with Mini-Z added now in the afternoon.
R32 features a single race on Saturday, January 6, 2024. If anyone is interested in hosting a second or another R32 race please provide dates, classes and particulars and I’ll include it in our calendar. R32 hosting is not restricted to Saturdays only.
S32 special events including Ringwood, Targa, Coppa D’oro, Carrera, etc. which will be raced at The Ring are yet to be added to our calendar – stay tuned for days/times.
I cannot host more than I already do and so for those who may not find enough R32 racing on our calendar in 2024 I do sincerely apologize.
Please enjoy Christmas with your families and we’ll be in touch after Boxing Day!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
No more showers? Oh well, small price to pay for the ability to paint year ’round!!! Looks like a great solution… are you filtering the intake air at all or is it just sucked in from the room?
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Gents,
The deadline for those still wishing to participate in the IROC Challenger Series in 2024 is this Sunday December 24, 2023. Order your colour body online from the eSHOP – several colours are still available. Next week I’ll begin rolling out the ordered kits and included parts and contact you when yours is ready. If you paid for postage then your kit will be mailed to you, otherwise they’ll be available for pickup. Should any extra IROC Ready to Run models be available for purchase by anyone wishing to join the series late they will cost $350 each.
Our first race will be on Saturday, February 3, 2024 and thereafter on the first Saturday of every month.
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Those not participating in the IROC series but who still wish to race in the R32 or S32 support classes are more than welcome to do so but I would ask that they help marshal the IROC series. So the rough raceday format might look as follows for 7 IROC in person participants regardless of how many are present for R32/S32:
9:00am – timed practice (only R32/S32 models)
9:30am – R32 support race 1
10:15am – R32 support race 2
11:00am – IROC qualifying
11:30am – IROC race – 1st rotation (7 participants – and I’ll supply a second working model to make sure the field of IROC cars is always 8)
12:15pm – IROC race – 2nd rotation (7 participants)
1:00pm – R32 support race 3
1:45pm – R32 support race 4
So IROC participants might race up to 6 races/rotations in total while R32/S32 participants might race up to 4 in total. I think this is the best compromise.
Since there is no point making/assembling more IROC bodies than we need I’ll set a deadline in the next day or two… should anyone have Qs please email me or reply here…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
That’s some very helpful and welcomed info JMSracer – and thank you for offering a chassis to anyone interested – and for a very fair price… it will be fantastic to compare all of the variants head to head once the racing starts!
BTW, We still have many body colours available so if anyone knows someone who is a suitable racer and might wish to participate it isn’t too late for them to purchase their coloured body with interior, wheels, tires and inserts.
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
2024 IROC Challenger Series Kits are now available online at the eSHOP – one of every molded colour/livery is available on a first come first served basis through the eSHOP. Make sure to select the colour of your choice!
https://shopdarts.square.site/
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Gentlemen,
For those interested here is my progress so far…
On the colour molded bodies:
So far I’ve made:
- Green
- Yellow
- Red
- Blue
- Purple
- Charcoal
- Dark Brown
- Orange
- Gulf Blue
- White
I plan to make several additional and unique colours including:
Mint Green[insufficient demand to warrant this molded colour]Violet[insufficient demand to warrant this molded colour]- Flesh Pink Pig [sold]
Beige[insufficient demand to warrant this molded colour]Light Grey[insufficient demand to warrant this molded colour]Hot Pink[insufficient demand to warrant this molded colour]
Every model will be finished with period appropriate and in some cases psychedelic livery with appropriate clear windscreen/windows, numbers and a painted card interior – all installed and ready to mount to any chassis however you wish. The body and interior must remain as is and unmodified but for mounting system.
Marked DArt club series urethane tires, wheels and finished inserts will also be provided and must be used. The wheels and finished inserts must be unmodified. The tires may be glued in place using any adhesive and trued down to any diameter you feel appropriate. You may replace the provided 2-56 set screws but not re-tap or re-drill the existing hole or make any other hole. Should you need replacement or additional wheels, tires or inserts you may purchase and replace or install them at any time throughout the duration of the series.
Here’s a sneak peak at the prototype tire, wheel and insert – but the colour of the insert will be finished in a bronze/gold… with some detail added…
Given the interest generated today during the conclusion of Ringwood and feedback from others I’ll add the option to purchase the 2024 IROC DArt Ferrari 312P Body Kit in the colour of your choice within my eSHOP later tonight. Individual unique colours will be sold online only on a first come first served basis. Purchased kits will be ready for pickup starting Monday December 18, 2023. The first IROC race will be held at Nova Ridge after the 18th of January at a time and date to be determined – likely on a Wednesday, Saturday or Sunday from 9am until 2pm.
Should you have any Qs please reply here or email me directly at [email protected] . Thanks!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Good questions DB!
Yes. Open motor/chassis – likely a 25k king or large can will be best and it can fit in a sidewinder configuration underneath this body. I believe some of the Slot.It chassis have the same wheelbase as the 312P so they are an easy option. Or you can scratch build, 3D print, assemble vintage or modern components… or have someone else build it for you too – anything goes!
The finished 312P will have my clear windscreen and clear side windows epoxied in place allowing you to see the finished interior cockpit detail…
The series will have a separate championship for manufacturer/constructor and pilots.
Since it will be an IROC, no need to proxy a driver – just make sure your model is present and in working order and it will be qualified by the top three pilots present and then raced by everyone.
For the manufacturer/constructor a single top result and a single bottom result at every race will be dropped, like in ski jumping. For the pilot championship one result from every calendar month will be kept, so if there are two or three races in a single month then to worst one or worst two will be dropped – so personal attendance will only be required once per month.
My plan is to have at least one race per month on the same date/time at Nova Ridge. Additional races either at Nova Ridge, MVL or any other DArt home track can be added to the schedule.
One other note – you can make any adjustments, changes or upgrades to your entry (but for mandatory parts) at anytime (just not during a race)… unlike a proxy race where after it is sent that is it for the series…
Hope this helps answer some of your Qs…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Great questions!
I’ve mixed some colours that I absolutely love and so now I see more variations in addition to the ones listed… so more uniquely colour molded models may be available…
With the molded colour there is no need to paint nor will scratches or repairs be as ugly… so perfect for an IROC series…
The DArt Ferrari 312P model kit is the prototype coupe that raced at LeMans and elsewhere. Some call it a Berlinetta.
Wheels will be the large 17in DArt wheel with a brand new insert. I may make a special tire but if not it will be the D12B (possibly with raised Goodyear black lettering)… I’ll know by this weekend which way I go… The D12 is the large scale tire we use for boulevard cruisers but will need to be trued down to fit underneath the rather large wheel wells…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looking great Ken! Can’t wait to see this one go!!! Full Interior?
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
GI – this response was automatically flagged as spam by the anti-spam software and therefore not automatically posted – I’m not sure why – but I’ve released it – my apologies for the delay in doing so.
Thank you for posting!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looks great GI! Great addition to our existing field of Indy Roadsters!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looks great Ken! Pure simplicity which can’t be beat… and so easy to assemble too!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Hi Ken!
You’ll find a country colours chart here:
http://scale-modeler.ca/forums/topic/country-colour-reference-chart/#post-7027
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
As it stands our current Modern F1 rules focus only on the Scaley version of newer F1 models:
Modern F1 (F1)
v5.0
Eligible Models: Any ‘stock’ modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model
Motor – must be a ‘stock’ Scalextric S-can or slim motor – whichever came with the model
Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm
Optional Modifications:Guide – may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter
Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used – rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels
Rear Tires – any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire
Front Tires – ‘stock’ or any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire
Rear Axle – may be replaced by a solid axle
Bushings – rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings
Weight – may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body – no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis
Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only)
Gearing – stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion
Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracingAs noted in prior replies (above) other groups are embracing several modern F1 models from a variety of manufacturers which are faster, more durable and nearly the same price.
Therefore it could be time to finally bring some glory (and sanity) back to the Modern F1 class by permitting any modern model (2000 and newer), any make, any chassis (scratch or RTR), any motor, any gearing, any wheels, any size DArt club series tire… basically an open class but for year of model, DArt tires and maximum width (TBD if necessary).
Let us canvass this potential change with everyone to see if we have a consensus in time for the Fall calendar – either reply to this thread or discuss in person… Thank you in advance for your further input…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Excellent! Hinch appears to be on the incline to greater things now – I think his colour commentary is quite entertaining – first indycar now the F1 streamed broadcasts… great for him!
Did you get a chance to speak to him at all?
Thanks for posting!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Great looking Impala!
Hopefully we’ll see it out on track soon!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Thanks Ken!
Spring is finally here and this week is shaping up to be the best of the year yet!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
The VW bus and the Lotus too!!! Can’t wait to see it when it is finished!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
That body looks great racer68! Was it printed as shown or did you need to sand/smooth it to get it ready for primer?
Keep us posted on your progress! Thanks for posting!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Hi JMSracer,
Your model looks awesome! It isn’t about speed…
If I may offer a suggestion:
When building your model you are truing down your white wall tires too much – likely to accommodate your fixed motor and front guide position for the slab aluminium chassis…
Typically when I start a build I true my tires/wheels first for the look of the model and then accommodate them using my wheel blocks to create my chassis…
Not sure what the solution is for a slab chassis but perhaps bending the front to raise the guide height might be one approach…
Slab chassis have numerous limitations but they work well for low power motored models so I understand your preference.
Keep up the great work!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Amazing work Gary! Your hand made exhaust detail looks very impressive too!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Excellent work Luis!
Love those tire decals too… where did you get them?
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Thank you for the question.
After some discussion yesterday we’ve decided to add a separate USRRC/SCCA sportscar class to the R32 set of classes which will adopt the Scratch32 Pre-CANAM class rules. This class will debut in R32 when we return to The River on Saturday June 11… stay tuned.
We might want to rename our existing sportscar class (including our 1950’s sportscar and 1960’s sportscar subclasses) to ‘Endurance Sportscar’ (1950’s Endurance Sportscar and 1960’s endurance sportscar subclasses).
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Thanks for the link.
Moved to our reference forum.
Please keep our general forum area for topics related to the site, site maintenance, etc.
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
I reinforced the ASS chassis with a few additions which I epoxied in place:
The total weight was light and needed to be brought up to R32 rules to 75g so I added some extra brass pieces:
The body was painted quickly to be raced at MVL but then was massaged thereafter with added detail, including a different pilot to better reflect the model I’ve noted.
A center mirror, tail pipes, wiper, and several other details were added. I also painted the headlight cavities white and the lenses light blue. The car numbers were airbrushed onto clear decal sheet and then applied….
I’ll need to sort out how to better paint the headlights but I’m satisfied with this latest effort. Practice will help.Cheers and thank you for taking a look!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
So here it is…
We managed to get a full driver in the cockpit too!!! The decals are good, but not enough were supplied for both sides so I needed to improvise with decals I already had… so be it. Over all I am happy with this build and as tested at SPA a month back it runs really nice…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Ha Ha Ha Ha!!!
Excellent!
I just did my best paintjob ever without primer outside my backyard door last night. Go figure…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
For this build I chose the IndyCals 1964 #1 A.J. Foyt Thompson Special decal set. I agree – they are quite good – crisp and easy to cut/apply – but I wish the transitions from light to dark on the blue and white stripes were smooth and not hatched/posterized, and were in more vivid colour (nothing that a good clear coat can’t bring out…). It would have been helpful for my application if IndyCals included duplicates of the small sponsor badges for the left side of the shell too…
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Looking great F1nutz!
I believe this is your slush poured shell? Very nice!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Received three different livery decals from IndyCals last week:
Also ordered the masking template for the #98 to see what that was all about and the Firestone tire decal sheet too…
Since I’ve never used IndyCals before I’m not sure yet how delicate they are but I’ll do the tires first to sort that out… I can’t wait to order more – I just wish they had white Ferrari numbers on a sheet, not just specific numbers for a few liveries…
A hearty thank you to Luis for the inspiration to order these decals and to everyone who pushed this class along the way. It has been a few years but patience rewards!!!
Anyone wishing to order their own IndyCals click here.
Now it’s time to get busy!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
It still seems that for some accounts (and I’m not sure why) a new reply or topic may need to be manually approved before it is posted… including some of my own!?!
In order to keep each thread in sync any reply or topic pending approval will also be time stamped to when it was originally submitted, not when it was approved.
Hopefully when the account markers are all back to normal this will be a problem of the past.
In the meantime if any post is held for moderation please do not submit another copy – I’ll try my best to check daily so that everything does get posted as soon as possible and as intended…
Cheers!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Wow! That blue livery does look great! Thanks for sharing that!
You’ve done a great job so far Ken! Looks like your M1B just needs number decals and it is finished… regardless of whether you decide to add a stripe or not. Either way it looks like it will be a great livery in the style of the period! Often period fantasy liveries can look much more appealing than the actual livery a car raced in – so kudos to you and others creative enough to experiment with different colours like you have.
I’ve often looked at that picture of the orange M1B with the white stripe and thought that a black stripe might look really good too. Food for thought…
Stripe or no stripe your paint on that model is second to none!!! The fact that you don’t even wet sand between coats or use a clear coat elevates your painting prowess beyond anyone else I’ve seen in this scale. You are truly a master painter without peer!!!
Now finish those decals!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Ken,
Great looking build so far!!!
Are you going to paint or decal the white stripe?
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Beautiful build Chris! I have never seen a model built as accurately as yours! Fantastico!
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Great timing Ken since I was planning to reschedule the American Thunder event in May… in which this will be a class along with boulevard cruisers and others…
Cheers!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Awesome!!! Great build Luis!!! Thanks for sharing your photos too!!!
Hopefully Eddie can make it for the inaugural Indy Roadster 500 next month!!! Yahoooooo!!!
Q. What decals did you use?
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
F1nutz:
Awesome takes!!!
If I can pry these awesome gems from your warm sweaty hands for a price I have just the track that that needs them: MVL! Let me know if you would part with them…
Did you build/paint all of them or was this a show pickup? Excellent grab if that was the case!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Hi Joe,
Chassis rules for both the 50’s and 60’s R32 Sportscar classes are the same – any chassis, any material, any configuration.
Hope this helps.
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
WOW!!! That’s the icing on the cake!!!
Thank you Ken!!! Thank you Felix!!!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Originally this new sub class of sportscars was listed with a maximum width of 54mm but this would have eliminated several 1950’s era models which was never the intention so returning to a maximum width to 57mm (as in v4.1) was the only fair solution.
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
Giddddyyyyy Up!!!
Another upgrade and some tweaks may have sped things up now… fingers crossed!
I agree F1nutz – especially for the galleries. Several different upload sizes are in play depending on where the files are going and how they are uploaded so I’ll check into each method to see what more can be done.
Thank you for your suggestion!
The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!
