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Most of the basic racing decals are on. I still need to figure out who some of the sponsors were besides STP and Dunlop Tires. There are no clear photos of the side of the car on any site. TargaPedia has some problems with certain links these days. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I originally wanted to try and create the oil-cooler look of the real car. But the front lower valance would have nothing to attach it to if it weren’t for the front grill. So I did the next best thing and gave the grill the “rough” look with semi-gloss black. It used to sparkle with chrome etc… See pic at the beginning of this thread to see the way the grill used to look.
I had to increase the weight to get the car up to be SP legal (75-grams). It’s right-hand drive and ready to race R/S32 SP. A few more decals and it’s ready for the Targa Florio in a few weeks.
Thanks for looking.
Ken
The Mini is almost finished less the interior and decals. Quite the fender project. The flairs are close to being the correct width but the tires are a bit narrow. Wider tires won’t help this car with such a slow motor. So the narrow tires will stay. I’m curious as to how it will handle with such a wide track?
The body is soooo short. There’s no way to hide the aluminum chassis. It possible that even a brass chassis could not be hidden with this configuration. You’ll see the pink crown gear no matter what you do. I’m not happy about seeing the chassis. But I don’t have many options. So I’ll just finish, and race the car.
The wheels inserts are painted gloss aluminum. But the pictures look like they are unpainted. Some things look better with the naked eye.
Thank you very kindly Porsche911. A friend was kind enough to give me Porsche decals by the name of Porsche911. Coincidence? Thanks a million!
I was racing with time to finish a really old Audi. No pun intended.
The RS61 has been torn apart for making very rude noises. It seems that a bearing is defective. Decals will go on both Porsche’s as soon as I stop handling the car for repairs.
Thanks again for those decals!
There’s probably a real market for 1/32 fuzzy dice. Make your first million 3-cents at a time? I’m sure fuzzy dice will eventually show up at Professor Motor.
I forgot to to say… The wheelbase is a bit hard to figure out with such a large opening for the front axle. After examining what felt like a thousand pics on Google images. I came to the conclusion that the wheelbase for my 1936 Type C would work out to be approximately 87.75mm.
Ken
The body had to be sanded to get the chassis to fit. Using a nail-file, it took about 20 minutes. But it also prevented removing too much material too fast. That kept the tolerance close. I thought I would have to give it more clearance for body-float. But the body lip at the bottom lines up with the pivot-point on the post, so it never touches. Luck was on my side.
It took a small piece of brass to align the pinion with the crown. The motor shaft does not go through the pinion. The bearing takes all the side-load of the low power motor.
It took a little extra chassis trimming to get the guide to fit under the front axle and still pivot. Almost half the bearing support had to be removed. The guide screw almost touches the axle. Tight fit.
A little extra material also had to be removed from the back of the chassis to fit the body.
The solid body posts were removed in favor of #227 Evergreen hollow tube and 4-40 brass inserts. The empty body weighed 8-grams before adding the rest of the parts from the kit. The car now weighs 68-grams in total. Thanks for looking. Ken
You’re very welcome MIA.
If anyone wants a 550 Spyder that fits the Carrera Panamericana? Use that site to make your car, and change the number if the car is already made by someone else. It’s S32 legal. Sometimes you can’t be too fussy. It pays to get your build form in first if you want the main/top/famous livery.
The D’Art Porsche 550 Spyder is an extensive build. But well worth the time, and comes out really well. It’s based on several prototype cars ranging from serial numbers 8 through 13. Two cooling grills (First Spyders had only one). One-piece rear bonnet, molded tail-lights instead of buttons. The D’Art 550 Spyder has some of the nicest detailing of all the Spyder prototypes. But that’s just my opinion… After building one.
Ken
Unfortunately this blue colour won’t qualify for the Carrera. The learning curve continues. I was about to plaster it with Carrera banners, licence plate, and livery. Now it will stay clean.
This is the most intricate and creative weight I’ve ever made. It’s getting hard to find new places to add weight to a small, aluminum chassis.
I forgot to mention a few points.
The guide is a Slot-It Ch10 universal guide. The braid is competition NSR 1mm cut to about 23mm in length.
I replace all stock 2mm set-screws with hardened hollow-point set-screws for wheels and gears. I then use the junk set-screws that are left over for the guides.
I had trouble with my first few cars making good track contact. Then a good guy named Bill pointed out that new brushes needed to be spread out a bit.
I held the braid between two fingers and pushed backwards. It looks like this compared to the untouched/skinny side.
Ready to race!
I forgot to mention one of the reasons these cars got modified so often. The car weighed just over 1,200 pounds and had 200-horsepower. For lack of better terms, it had bicycle tires. Going sideways with the rear tires spinning out of control was apparently normal driving back then. A short wheelbase is a formula for a lot of accidents. If the Porsche factory had a slightly different front end clip in stock? That’s what you got. And you were likely happy it was in stock.
My original inspiration for this build was the Carrera Panamericana. That created a need to research the 550 Spyder in great detail. There were 15 prototypes created by Porsche before the car offically went into production.
Every prototype went through many changes. Full colour changes. Fog lamps or turn signals were either added or deleted. Front air scoops were cut out of the front end. Etc…
The first few 550’s could be converted from a coupe, spyder, or high-back spyder with a few bolt-on body parts. As each model was built. New things were added such as the one-piece rear bonnet that exposes the entire engine-bay by opening 2-straps.
The D’Art Porsche 550 Spyder slot car kit is simular to serial number 550-13. It would simply not be profitable to make all the variations of prototypes.
That being said. I found record of a Porsche 550 that raced in the 1953 Carrera Panamericana without a specific photo. It’s a sister car to Art’s blue 550. RacingSportsCars had a photo of an early Porsche 550 that was also blue in colour. With that information I started the build. Here is a photo of the car.
Here’s what I created with the D’Art Porsche 550 Spyder body kit.
The car still needs the leather straps painted (helmet repainted), numbers installed, licence plate printed, livery decals, etc… This will be my interpretation of the Porsche 550 Spyder #159 driven by Karl Kling of Germany that raced in 1953. The colour detail only indicated that the car was “light”. This is Tamiya “light metallic blue”. Anything but silver… please!
This D’Art Porsche 550 Spyder has a Slot-It 22.5k flat-6R and weighs 104.1-grams. It’s a little German tank that goes very fast!
A simple way to hold wheel inserts to either spray, or paint by brush is to reverse tape a long, thin, craft stick. Easy to peel off after they dry.
There are 9 pieces to chrome on this car. Makes it pop nicely against a blue body.
The head light bezels were set on a toothpick to chrome the rim and leave the inside white to help the head lights sparkle a bit more. I have not had much luck painting or chroming the inside of the lenses.
Toothpicks did a good job to hold the gas caps down while using the Molotow chrome pen. You can’t get the sides of the part without chroming the paper underneath. Nice, shiny paper afterwards. Self-clamping tweezers from the local dollar-store held the rear-view mirror and got some extra chrome.
Self-clamping tweezers did a nice job holding the grills too.
Everything was test-fitted prior to chroming.
Interior is next before setting the final body height.
Once you’ve figured out the track width. There is a simple and effective way to measure how much axle to cut. Calipers are usually ground flush at the end as a third measuring device beyond the obvious ones on the front.
Extend the rod more than the axle sticks out beyond the wheel.
Then slide the caliper closed until the end bottoms out on the axle with the rod touching the wheel.
There’s the exact length of how much to cut off this specific axle. I check it several times to make sure.
Then take the axle out. Install it in a drill. Take a magic marker, spin the drill and mark the axle close to the general area where it’s going to be cut. Make sure to not to be shy with the marker.
Then take the calipers with the measurement pre-set and locked. Touch one end of the calipers to the end of the axle and scribe a thin line through the magic marker line with the other side of the calipers. There’s your cutting line.
The axle is ready and marked to be cut. Spin it in the drill while using a Dremel cut-off disk close to the line. The rest is basically Dremel cutting skills. Practice, practice, practice.
Chassis’s with independent front wheels have the axle sticking out one side. Chassis’s without indepedents, and all rear axles require measuring both sides of the axle. Add the numbers to find out how much in total to cut off. No need to center the axles when doing a mock-assembly.
With epoxy hardening and paint still drying. Emilio made it out to the Carrera Panamericana IX on time.
I didn’t install the front bumper on my first blue Tudor because the bumper is too wide and sticks out like big hooks on either side of the car. I chopped this one down to fit a bit cleaner.
If I’m going to chop the front bumper. I might as well do the same to the back. It too was made too wide for the car.
I’m happy with the paint. Not happy with most of the chrome. But at least I know what I did wrong. I should have used the pen upside-down to avoid runs and pooling. It’s just another learning curve. Now I need to keep the car in motion so I can’t see my mistakes.
Unfortunately Slot Car Corner Canada has closed its doors. You can still get CB Wheels at Slot Car Corner in the USA.
CB Wheels are a bit lighter than RS-Slots (not always an advantage). A bit heavier than Slot-It. But have more range of sizes than Slot-It. CB Wheels also offer some odd sized diameter wheels. Check the actual wheel measurements on their chart/site before buying. Just because it says it’s a 14×7 wheel doesn’t mean it’s 14mm diameter (it might only be 12mm).
https://www.slotcarcorner.com/1-32-slot-car-parts-by-type-/wheels-and-inserts/cb-design-c610/
Ken
RS Slot Racing in the UK has something that is similar to the BWA for replacement front wheels.
RSW006 (13 x 7)
http://www.rsslotracing.com/parts.htm
Someone suggested I share more of the building process. Chuck Norris’s cousin might be watching.
I made an interior template long ago when I made the first Tudor in case I might make another. That day has arrived. (I write in code. It’s called “Dysgraphia”. Even I can’t understand my own hand writing)
The black paper is textured card stock from “Micheals Arts & Craft Supply Stores”.
I have yet to decide on steering wheel colour.
Even though the various bends keep the card stuck in its place. 3-small pieces of tape will fully secure the sides and rear deck once I paint the rest of the driver, and black out the interior. Tape makes the interior removable. The driver Emilio, might need to get out and stretch his legs at some point.
With inserts. I like how the car turned out. It needs a yellow stripe or something on the front to complete the look. It will also help to differentiate the front from the back of the car.
Driver’s name is: Helmut Blaupunkt (Bluepoint)
I was driving through Hamilton and guess who I bumped into?
Luis! Cousin to Chuck Norris! B-)
Here he is manning the coffee bar. There is a cool history behind his family business. Nice place. Great coffee! :good:
I suggested he hang some race pics and he pointed to the power-drink menu. He’s got it covered.
Now let’s see some Ferrari 312P Berlinetta chassis pics when you get a chance Luis?
Thank you very kindly Porsche911. You make me laugh out loud. :good: Your comments are one of the reasons I joined this club. I look forward to racing with you again.
This body isn’t as wide as the blue one. Very strange. I was hoping it would be better than Fred’s blue Tudor. Maybe not.
Anyone buying a new Tudor should try and gently bow the body side panels out a bit under hot water before glueing them on. Track width is paramount for good cornering.
Thank you kindly Luis. You can borrow the glasses anytime. Don’t forget the “Chuck Norris” Molotow pen (2-mm size).
Motor spec sheet. This is too much car for me for 24-minutes the first night out. It will debut at der Internationale Meisterschaft on Oct 21.
I guess Professor Motor had a problem with printing a lower case letter “L” on the spec sheet. Motor rotates “cockwise”. Thanks for “ooking”. :yahoo:
This car is a test platform for a budget motor from Professor Motor (35k slimline inline with 8×29 gears). I tried the car tonight. It’s nothing short of insane! The rear tires spin easily and the car fishtails from the starting line with the throttle pot backed all the way down. Nuts! :yahoo:
The car makes some funny noises at the top end when skipping across the track like lightning. The gear mesh and backlash are as good as they’re going to get. We’ll see in time. I have a feeling it’s going to wear tires down faster than any other car I own.
I think I over heard Art say it was “too fast” or something, but I’m almost positive I heard him say “too good”. Selective hearing I guess. :good:
The Mustang had it’s first race. It drives well. It might not win just yet, but it looks good going down the track.
Thanks for looking.
Thank you MIA.
Also. Thank you for reminding me that I need to number this car for tonight. I got away with a street-car for the last race.
Thank you MIA. Yes the side rails are cut. I used to think tall sides were needed for strength. Short rails will do. It’s pretty hard to bend so I found out with the back end of the chassis. More bending to follow. This was the test.
My pleasure Luis. Install a “Chuck Norris NSR Shark” in it! The faster it goes, the less everyone can see any faults (if there are any).
Please keep posting pics throughout the build? The D’Art 312P Ferrari was my second scratch-built car. It looks amazing. :good:
I need to get a Chuck Norris toolbox to go with my Chuck Norris slot-car tools. B-)
You are just trying to tease us yes? Nice job Luis!
Please make a new thread and share the rest of your pics?
Oops. I apologize that forgot to show the front of the car.
This is powered by a BWNC1 and will be the direct replacement for my 49-Tudor for basic slow Sportscar class. I’m very hopeful that it will out-perform the Tudor in every way.
Thank you very kindly Porsche911. I would really appreciate that decal. It would help complete the car.
The only reason the car doesn’t have inserts is because I forgot to pick them up last week. Oops. I must have had a “senior moment”. Never too late to fix that.
Great idea to put something in that space. I have “grill” textured black card-stock from Michael’s craft store. Here it is as suggested. I extended it to the side scoops as well. Thanks for the suggestion Porsche911!
Stunning photos F1nutz! At first I thought “one page won’t hurt”. Then I couldn’t stop going to the next page. :good:
Thanks for posting.
Thank you kindly F1nutz. It’s coming along. I wish I had a steady hand for details like leather buckles, etc…
I happened to take a closer look at Art’s RS61 and noticed a small raised line. It’s a hinge for the side access panels.
I can’t get away with lead weights anymore when the chassis isn’t wide enough. It’s starting to look more like a brass chassis as time goes on.
Thanks for looking.
Ken
Thank you kindly F1nutz.
I stripped the decals with Super-Clean. Which ended up also removing the clear-coat. I sanded the body before paint.
I would guess that the decals might leave an outline if not removed.
I noticed something missing at the back of the car. This is an all red car with red tail lights that blend in a bit too much. I searched googled images for a 1970 Z28. Every Camaro tail light of that era has a chrome bezel. The inside lamp has the reverse light with another smaller chrome bezel. The challenge was to keep it clean and not allow the Molotow pen to run or bleed into the entire lamp.
Then I tried using the Molotow pen upside down and it worked great!
The paint needs to cure a bit longer before I give it a number. Then black out the head lights, chrome the door handles, and it’s race-ready again. It might not win. But it will look nice. At least to me.
I finally have my red zed.
A year ago I thought anyone that painted a store bought car is crazy. Who knew? :wacko:
Thanks for looking.
Ken
Thank goodness garbage day is tomorrow. I just fished the motor out of the garbage for the bushings. Good tip! :good:
I don’t usually do line-dancing. But fantasy liveries are worth doing a little “jig”. :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:
I think it would defeat the purpose to adapt a standard inline drive Ringwood car into an Indi 500 event. It becomes the same race with a different title.
I have yet to build a front motor drive car. But from what I’ve seen to date, I can’t see it being competitive against other style drives.
If the playing field were even. I would be happy to build a dedicated front motor drive car. I would be my humble pleasure to place a bulk order for drive shafts the same way we all just ordered motors.
Ken
Thank you very much Luis.
Happy Birthday to you as well! :yahoo: Yours is this Monday Aug, 19th. :good:
You’re most welcome MIA.
You need a little backlash between the gears. Rotating your rear axle showed some resistance. The green 24T crown is the correct gear.
Your rear tires are 20.8 mm. Mine are 21.25 mm. There’s less than a 1/4 of a millimeter in how these cars sit. Don’t be in a hurry to change the wheels just yet.
I might suggest profiling the outside edge of the rear tires to be a bit more rounded? The car chatters around corners. That’s just a newbie making an observation. Oops. I’m not allowed to call myself a newbie anymore.
You’re very close to the finishing the car.
Cheers,
Ken
Luis was trying to convince me to paint my Auto Union metallic purple last night. 😉
Art. Nice body kit! Extremely light! :good:
Hi Joe,
The decals came with the complete Monogram car. We only changed the chassis. Michael stumbled upon it and snapped it up. He got lucky.
Ken
Thanks for posting this clip Porsche911. I heard you tapping on the microphone.
I think many of us are in “summer vacation mode”. I just got back from a 2-week break where I painted a few slot cars. Water sanding slot-car bodies seems to make for a relaxing vacation.
I may have bit off more than I could chew with this fender-flare project. Time will tell. There’s no doubt about one thing… the car is indeed Plum Crazy Purple. Testors “One Coat” was the only colour close enough to match the real car.
I’m glad the car is getting the slowest motor we race. A fast motor might leave the flares behind at the starting line. The flares are both plastic welded, and epoxied in place and are still very fragile. I need to really concentrate on my driving skills. This car can’t afford any off’s.
Chassis is completed. However, I still need to find a way to mount the body and there is no room. Then design/make/install livery details. I doubt it will be ready for the up coming Targa. But the project is back on the workbench until it gets completed.
Thank you very kindly F1nutz.
Here’s the completed Ford, Fairlane GT with driver, roll bar, and fire-extinguisher. The 5-spoke inserts are for the photo only. Stock-car inserts are arriving soon.
Thank you very kindly gentlemen.
The blue axle spacers are just a nice, light, 6mm axle spacer from Professor Motor. They go to the wheel side. The brass spacers are more precise and go to the bearing side of the axles.
The 13″ inch wheels are so small in diameter, that they look wider than they really are. They measure exactly 7.65mm wide. MIA may have stumbled onto an interesting wheel/tire combination with this car. Its got me very curious.
Please let us know how it runs when it’s back at home MIA?
Authenticity trumps good looks. The club historian has spoken.
We gave Mr. McQueen his bullit wheels back and thanked him kindly for the offer. Off to the insert shop we go.
Thanks for the pics! Nice looking cars. The Shelby’s are an inspiration to build. I don’t have one of those… yet.
Thanks a million F1nutz! You answered my question about the old chassis.
I really got lucky with this one. The gentlemen that sold me the kit was a super nice guy. The $150 price tag suggested for the kit is when all the parts are still in the sprues and nothing is missing. I didn’t get many parts or instructions. Plus this kit was already started.
There’s a chance the Rover BRM might end up being more of a common car in S32 circles. I’m not about to have it collect dust and never see the light of day. It needs to be raced. :yahoo:
MIA. Art’s flat interior and driver fit the car nicely (see pic). I can put the outdated stuff that doesn’t fit the car properly in the “drawer of relics”.
Here are a few more details as I further investigate the car.
Wheelbase = 73.5 mm
Body width = 56.5 mm
The wheel wells are perfectly round and allow the track width to match the body = 56.5 mm
Body weight = 13 grams.
A very nice alternative to the 49-Tudor as a slow, or fast Sportcar.
Unfortunately the interiors don’t fit the body post locations very well hence the “sort of fit” statement. They are another brand used to adapt the chassis.
I’m going to set the old interiors and chassis aside and create a new scratch chassis that will make the car equal to what we build today. :yahoo:
However. It’s a shame to use this one body and all its parts, and then they are no more. Hmm… 😥
For example. If I had two of these kits? The 2nd one would probably have an unlimited motor (60k maybe?). I could afford to wreck a car and not worry about it being the only one. B-)
Thanks a million for the cool info and videos MIA! It’s really appreciated that we have a historian in the group. :good:
I’m glad it doesn’t have those crazy intake scoops. It looks cooler without… to me.
The seller did some research based on the parts that came with the kit. It came with a static chassis. It also came with separate front and rear valance panels to accommodate a slot car chassis. The original owner glued them to the body years ago. The photo below shows the extra valances. I should have posted that with the original group of photos. You can see evidence of the 4-slot car mounting posts that don’t get used for the static interior and chassis. I am not sure what the chassis is yet. But the chassis fits the other blue and green slot car interiors which sort of fit the body already.
Nice wide arc on the extra valance on the front to clear the guide. Both extra valances were definitely molded and not modified from a spare chassis. Everyone is hunting for the instructions because it will apparently have all the facts. The seller is a model fanatic and came up empty handed. I’m just happy to have found the kit.
I’m not so sure about a 60k motor in a slot car. I’m still having troubles at 25k.
The designers built the turbine engine to compete in the 1.6 liter class. The tech officials didn’t know how to class the turbine so they played it safe and called it a 2-liter car.
Thank you for your kind words Porsche911.
Unfortunately, both the other Lotus 30’s pull away from this car in the straights. They are both powered by a BWNC1. I should try and keep the BWMS050 motors exclusively for Hot Rod and early GP cars.
Mr. Snodgrass was complaining that the open headers under the car with a Ford 351 V-8 were a bit too loud. So we sent the car to the shop and installed exhaust extensions. Much better now.
I like the exhaust that came with kit as seen on Art’s and JMSracer’s cars. But I can see myself breaking it off at some point. I don’t think I have the driving experience to own delicate cars yet. I’ll eventually get there.
The D’Art Lotus 30 was a fun car to build… after I fixed my mistakes. :good:
Thank you very kindly for looking.
F1nuts suggested replacing the BWNC1 with an 050 since I had nothing to lose at this point. I had to add a brass spacer under the motor to line up the pinion with the crown. The brass under the chassis is just for weight.
I installed the tonneau cover. That helped to hide the damage of the big hole on one side. I’m thankful the kit came with it as an option.
I had to get creative with the driver and dremmel.
In the end we have full body float and nothing touches. The driver has an interesting arm-rest.
The car will not easily tip over. It will slide out before tipping. It looks like the front tire has body-rub but it doesn’t. You can slide a piece of paper in between at thier closest point.
The stripe is Tamiya metallic green.
I would have loved to go but no time. Thanks for posting. Maybe next time.
Did you take any pics of the cars you mentioned?
This car handles like crap. I blame the builder. Myself. Oh well… It’s never too late to try and improve it. The Ferrari 312 is a cool looking car.
In preparation for the coming race. I installed additional urethane washers under the screws to the body mounts. I played with weight location. I also installed a different set of wheels, tires, and inserts. Monster BWA-460 wheels on the rear. The new inserts should make a few Ferrari fans a little happier.
My pleasure Larry.
What final gear ratio did you end up with?
What motor are you using?
Details, details, details… :good:
The interiors were supposed to be satin black. The bottle must be miss-labelled because the seats are more shiny than satin. I’m leaving the seats as is and simply blaming “Armorall” for the extra shine.
Thanks Art.
Most Lotus 30’s with yellow stripes seem to have matching yellow wheels. So to stay with tradition… The blue Lotus will get yellow inserts with chrome knock-off’s.
The two-tone green Lotus has gold inserts to break from norm. Nothing about it is traditional.
The car pictured in the opening post had a cross-ram intake. Both Ford 351 V8’s here have in-line 4-barrel carbs (thank you Art). Edelbrock apparently doesn’t make the cross-ram anymore. The stacks for the carbs will have to wait until I make them from scratch. It won’t stop the cars from racing.
That’s an extra bonus that you contacted the driver’s son for the facts with respect to livery details. Congrats!
I hope you took lots of pics to create a build thread in the “scratch build” section? You earned a spot there with this cool car. It will be nice to see pics of the car totally finished. Maybe even a nice coat of Mother’s wax B-)
Steve. Your car looks and runs great! Impressive first night out. Congrats on crossing over to S32. You and Vicky did an outstanding job on the livery! :good:
It would be nice if you shared some details on how you did the two-tone paint and lettering?
Patented chassis? Not likely. Thank you very kindly for the brand protection. Too bad it’s a profitless venture. I’m glad the spare chassis has become useful.
Thanks for the suggestion Felix.
I will end up taking your advice. My lathe is too big for the basement and it’s been way too cold in my garage to tinker. Spring is coming.
It would have been easier to pay $7.95 and just order them from somewhere like the 1/24 stacks.
The last few minutes of the camera in the race car going through the countryside is nuts!
Thanks for posting.
Joe. Thank you very kindly for the idea. It would make a nice classic TA car for sure. I will check your suggestions for paint and livery.
Got any pics of your Jaguar?
I was using Racing Sports Cars for my research and found that a whole flock of Porsche 911’s were also in Trans Am racing? Really?
1966 to 1973 sounds interesting yes?
The only minor thing I would suggest to the rules for S32 TA+ is. Maybe keep it to American made 2-door cars with V8’s?
Just for the record. Chevrolet Vega’s didn’t come with 350-V8’s from the factory. There was only one GM prototype V8. We made those insane cars ourselves in our back yards. We also had to keep changing the back tires on it. Not sure why. Probably defective or something like that.
My mom’s doing better thank you kindly. My sister took second shift to stay with my dad tonight. Everyone in the family is pushing me to be at my vendor table at the Group-25 Model and Slot Car show tomorrow. I look forward to it, and hope to see many of you there.
Ken
Good news. I don’t have to build a new car for this class? Yay! And I’m the first car ready to race? Another first for me.
Bad news. I was making plans to visit mother-in-law in the hospital today. My dad just called 10 minutes ago and tells me I need to rush out to St Catherines to bring him to the hospital too. He has zero strength. Very bad time for my family right now. I’m now being pulled in two directions and need to find balance. Racing just went to the back burner.
And I’m supposed to be a vendor at the show tomorrow. Very bad weekend.
Ken
I’ve been searching for Trans Am cars other than the usual Camaro’s, Mustangs, etc…
Apparently Corvettes ran in a Trans Am GT class in 1970 at the 12-hour Sebring based on the photo below. Does that mean I can enter my unlimited Corvette from this thread in open TA?
I’m not sure what the dimensions of the stack would be. I can only tell you that the opening on the carburator is 0.145″ inches diameter. The hole should be 0.150″+ inches.
Or I’ll make his Cheetah velocity stacks work by modifying the top of the carbs. Here’s a photo of Art’s intake manifold. This would look amazing peeking through the Lotus 30 body.
Thanks for the suggestion DB.
Eight of those small stacks might look great in place of the plastic stacks. That’s another option.
I finally located the aluminum stacks. Unfortunately they are for cars in 1/25 scale. I now realize that I saw these at a Group-25 meeting.
http://www.tedsmodelingmarketplace.com/velocity-stacks-4bbl-carb-1-24-1-25/
I’ve seen these on a car and they are insane. Makes the engine look like you can turn the key and start it. Details… :good:
Thanks Porsche911. That’s a great idea to use a ferrule!
House of Electrical here in Toronto may have a variety in stock. I bet if I bring the intake with 2 x 4-barrels to the counter. Several guys will wander over just to see check out the mini intake. They may even just give me 2 and send me on my way. Such a small item. Sayal might also carry these.
I know for a fact that a hobby supplier makes these carb stacks out of spun aluminum. I just can’t remember who had them or where? I hope I’m not remembering something 1/25 scale from Group-25 that won’t fit our cars. The stacks made out of aluminum look as real as the 1/1 scale. They pop so severely that you almost don’t see the rest of the car. Worth hunting for.
If I need to hunt for ferrules. I’ll get some extra for you Porsche911.
Thanks MIA.
I thought I remember you with an open engine red Hot Rod with some store bought aluminum stacks that made the whole engine look real. Must have been someone else. My memory is getting old.
I have the 2 x 4-barrel carbs and intake manifold from Art’s inventory. Nice option for the Lotus. I really want those real aluminum stacks. Polished aluminum stacks on a medium blue car will be the highlight of the entire car.
Being an engine builder, or automotive machinist myself for many years. Smokey Yunick happens to be my hero. I have several of his high-horsepower engine books. It’s a compliment to be compared to him in even the smallest way.
Who wouldn’t want an open class Boss Mustang that runs way better than a stock Scalex?
Sounds like S32 open TA is still on. Yay!
Cheers,
Ken
Porsche911. I wish to apologize for the miss step. I’m just excited to answer the call. If Art and I end up being the only builders of open class TA, it may not have much of a life span.
Let me know if you want help building one of your Mustangs? I might end up building an open class Mustang for myself just to avoid having to paint another car.
Ken
Art,
Open Trans Am has officially started with the above post. :yahoo: Thank you very kindly!
I have lots to learn about getting an open class car to work right. :mail: None the less I’m taking the bait. Count me in. :good:
KensRed… Trans Am Pontiac Tempest? 😉
Sweet video! Love the sound of the cars too. Thanks for posting. Brings back a few memories.
I used to rebuild performance V8 engines 35-years ago. I’ve seen a lot of fast cars. I used take in the car. Have mechanics pull the motor. We would rebuild the engine and give it back to the mechanic. Then I get to test the performance of the car before giving it back to the customer. Fun job at the end of a rebuild.
One of the fastest cars I drove was a 69 Javlin with a 401 cid V8. The boss threw me the keys and said “This car belongs to a friend. When you rebuild it. Give it the best pistons, etc… but keep the old camshaft!”. I thought my boss was crazy. We typically installed new Crane drag-race cams in everything for the street. Turns out this Javlin had an old Trans-Am camshaft. Stump pulling torque in the midrange. Right were you need it on the street. This car smoked the tires in every gear. Crazy Trans Am stuff of legend. You could not buy the AMC camshaft anymore after Trans Am died out. Chevy yes. AMC camshafts no.
Art,
Beautiful work! It’s another stunning build! :good:
The 612 is not one of my favorite body styles. :whistle: But looks like it will corner on a dime and give back 9-cents change! :yahoo:
Art,
Your attention to detail is second to none. The body kit and the build are both works of art! :good:
Thank you for explaining every detail. The bar has been set somewhere in the clouds. I doubt anyone will surpass it. But it will be fun trying.
Dave,
It was nice to see you show off your stuff too! Slot car guys generally don’t have “show & tell” build meetings. Maybe we should?
Or we can form a slot car section within Group-25. They will welcome it. Half of the guys in Group-25 are slot car people at heart. We just need to join in and light the fire. Some Group-25 members may trickle over to this side of the S32 fence (The Dark side!). Several members are asking me a lot of slot car questions. We are of one mind and spirit in building cars. I’m certain they would like to see some of their builds in motion. It’s all good.
Ken
Thank you to Dave and Steve for coming out to the meeting yesterday.
Steve updated his status to a full member. Congrats! It can only add to your model building skills.
Here are a few pics from the meeting.
http://www.group25.org/2019/2019_02_meeting_pics.html
Some Group-25 members are showing interested in R32/S32. Let’s mix it up folks. It can only add to our fun factor! :good:
Ken
Nice work! I saw the chassis run today and it’s nothing short of a bullet!
It’s going to be hard to beat. I look forward to seeing it race.
Dave,
Art saw something out of the corner of his eye on the floor and under the track near the drivers stations. Your windshield has been recovered. It may have been knocked loose in the accident, but probably only fell out of the car when you it picked up.
I will bring it with me to the meeting tomorrow.
Ken
The biggest enemy of the truth? Money (greed). :negative:
Interesting comment I noted was that all cars without ground effects had lift problems. Uncle Fred’s Galaxie-500 was never meant to go in excess of 200mph.
Thanks for posting the article. The rear of my Lotus 30 chassis will be boxed in a bit better.
2 of these Porsche 911S kits just arrived from Japan. The total price for both was $31.00 all in. A coffee might also be in order for Steve for ordering these for me. Thanks Steve!
Now that I see what they look like in the box. More kits are being considered. These are sweet!
These have the front and rear vallance panels and bumbers attached to the chassis as many static kits do. A job for the bandsaw.
That explains what I over-heard last night. And I live all the way in Scarborough. Venting carries well in cold weather.
Sorry to hear about your bad decal experiences. I’ll remember to be careful when ordering from the UK.
I just bought a few sheets of white Ferrari decals from Professor Motor. Upon receiving them, I found out they are stick on labels and not water-slide. They will look like crap no matter what I do. Live and learn.
I hope you get your money’s worth out of them.
DB,
Art and I searched the track and surrounding floor for the windshield and came up empty handed. But it’s a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack. The track has a lot of detailed forest to search though. It may turn up yet. Never lose hope.
On the bright side, Art found several items from his other cars while looking for your windshield.
Ken
