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Model Database & Model Gallery Updated Our Database and Galleries are updated to include the latest Carrera Panamericana models...
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in: Website Information
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- 5 years ago
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Classifieds Plug In Removed After several software and plug in upgrades on Sunday our Classifieds plug in broke - I've been working on fixing this over the past day but I haven't had any luck - so I've disabled it for the time being and will work on a fix or a suitable alternative - my apologies for the inconvenience.
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- 5 years ago
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Several Updates… and a few Upgrades! Gentlemen, Over the past few weeks we've had a multitude of updates added to our humble little corner in this universe - and one that failed - so after many many hours of confligulating annurosis and conjugulations to the untowards things were finally stabilized. I've never been closer to a pale shade of white than I was recently during those harrowing steps... but all is good that ends well and which is unnoticed by most... So upwards and onwards Blitzen, Ruben & Bacardi - hmmmm - something isn't right - yes - the order.... One upgrade featured alternate randomly generated user avatars - monsters - and since we are all sick of the tapestry avatars the monsters looked fabulous so I checked that box instead... funny how that spurred some to add their own avatar now... but like the screenplay says - nothing is foolish - it only gets better!!!! If you think that was subtle - take a closer look around - you might discover something... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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65 Porsche 911 at Spa…What could be better Fantastic short vid, amazing driver control, thrashing a race prepped vintage Beauty around Spa, ENJOY!! https://youtu.be/CvDD8V9Liq8
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Bandsaw blades I recently had a bandsaw blade explode and got lucky it didn't catch my hand in the process. I went to the usual industrial suppliers for a 93.5" inch by 1/8th scrolling bandsaw blade and found nothing in stock anywhere (Usually $16.00). I stumbled across a guy that makes blades to suit for $29.00 = Barry at M&L Sharpening Ltd 1550 Bayly Street, Unit 22, in Pickering. When Barry told me that he uses Starret blade stock, I actually got excited. It took Barry 10-minutes to make two blades while I waited. I now have a blade that cuts through thick aluminum as if it wasn't there. The weld is so straight, you can't see it pass when the power is on. I won't buy cheap blades anymore. I like my hands too much. Ken
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 5 years ago
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WordPress Update Recently our service provider automatically updated our website software (Wordpress) to a new version - v 5 - which now uses blocks - and with this has created a number of challenges for me to deal with on the back end. Things should be transparent on the front end however. I need to come to grips with these changes so I apologize for the delays with adding new content... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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Copper Tape Repair Across Power Taps – Courtesy KK Quoted From KK to others in SOS: I stumbled upon this little repair trick I thought I’d share with all the copper tape track owners I know out there. I have had a few issues with the tape tearing up where the power taps were installed recently and they can be difficult to re-solder once torn. I recently purchased some copper foil shielding tape for my guitars and it comes with “conductive adhesive” on the back. I used the 2” roll and cut 6 - 3/8” strips x 2” and placed them across the power tap locations Sunday afternoon. This tape is far thinner than the original tape I used and so far they are holding up nicely. With a multi meter there is absolutely no power drop or loss across the 2” repaired section. I also tried to remove a piece and it comes up without hurting the tape below. The problem spots were re-soldered and filed down smooth before applying the thin conductive adhesive copper tape layer on top. It actually smooths things out a bit and takes away the little click as the cars pass over the power tap. I will continue to monitor and report back if I find any issues that may arise with this type of repair but after about 1,000 laps there is no sign of wear, lifting or power issues of any sort. Thankfully all of my tap joints are in the middle of long straights and therefore should never really be much of a problem should there be some sort of minimal power fade in the future. This conductive adhesive shielding tape for guitars can be found for about $5.00 on ebay and Aliexpress. I also have tons of it in 1”, 2” and 4” rolls for my guitar cavities and back plates should anyone care to just try a piece themselves on a problem spot. The three lane section I tried this on used all of a 2 1/4” x 2” piece of tape and looking back I probably could have used the narrower 1” roll to do this. From JMSracer: Thank you for sharing this, your repairs looks very clean and seamless. I haven’t had any issues with tape lifting or tearing at the power taps only little on a couple of my tight turns but this is a great solution for a quick repair. From DArt: Excellent! :good: :good: :good: :good:
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- 5 years ago
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1/35 pedestrian bridge I saw this at Hornet Hobbies. It's only good for someone that has a track. It's listed at $75.00, but everything has to go by this Sunday. I have a feeling that a cash offer may lower the price dramatically on Sunday. Footprint is listed on the box. Ken
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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- 5 years ago
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$100000+ VW… Well not really, it's a "Frankfurt FLyer", and a Beauty!!! If only I'd married rich! Hmmm, I think my wife says the same thing!! :heart: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/runge-frankfurt-flyer-008/
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 5 years ago
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Event Pictures Gents, From this point forward, pictures for all entries presented for events will be taken prior to the start. Additional pictures may be taken at the conclusion of the event, but this will be the exception.
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- 5 years ago
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Lotus 49 1st race out A good video on the Lotus 49's first race. With shades of Grand Prix cinematography. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6cm3eWEHM0
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Calendar, Database & Model Galleries Updated Gents, Our Scratch32 calendar is now updated for the summer season - one new event may be in order in August yet but plenty of time to sort that out. I've updated our model database and it is now up to 134... with several still missing - models which may have been raced but which never had a form submitted are not included. Also, some forms were submitted but the models never showed or raced - so those forms were deleted - please submit a new form when you register any new model in any event - don't rely on a past submission... our gallery is also almost updated completely - stay tuned...
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- 5 years ago
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Posting your raced model photos elsewhere made easy… As they say - a picture is worth a thousand words... to include any recent photograph of your model which exists anywhere on our website all you need to do (if you use Chrome) is to right click on the picture you wish to use (from our website) and select 'copy image address' - then just paste it into your post - the picture should appear as it does where you right clicked originally... :good:
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- 4 years ago
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F1 Masters series at Tremblant July 12th-14th I went to this a few years back and it was pretty good. They had less turnout than usual that year because of other competing events but maybe this year will be better. http://www.mastershistoricracing.com/historic-formula-1-usa/championship/ Not sure if I can go yet but it does coincidentally coincide with the start of my holiday week so who knows? Too bad there is no camping at the track though. Waking up to the sounds of race engines is like nothing else. It is also a great historic track that maintains most of it's original features.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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Who let the cats out? I stumbled into 3-white Scalextric 1967 Cougars. One of the possible plans was to make IROC cars using BWNC1's. I can use the stock 18k motors elsewhere. But the gearing was eluding me so the project went back on the shelf. JMSracer helped me figure out how to gear these properly. The plan is once again in motion. Thanks JMSracer! The colours are: Fiery-tangerine, chrome yellow, and candly lime green. The tangerine Cougar was painted before the IROC idea was thought of. It was painted by Marty at Group-25 when he showed me how to paint. It was the snow-flake that started the avalanche. Thanks Marty! They all have working head/tail lights. An extention of night-racing? Time will tell.
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 4 years ago
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404 Galleries Error One of our updates broke the links to our model and event galleries which I now hope are fixed... :good:
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- 4 years ago
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Scalextric 18k slim-line 050 motors These motors are reliable and powerful. They come with a 9-tooth pinion. Available at Electric Dreams for $8.99 US funds (as of Nov 27/19). https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/scalextric-parts-by-category-c-3_354/scalextric-motors-drive-shafts-c-3_354_359/scalextric-w10093-motor-ff-for-mgb-p-15265.html
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 4 years ago
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Drive shafts for front motor drive I found these drive shafts are in stock as of Nov, 27/19 at Electric Dreams. They are $7.99 US funds. https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/drive-shafts-all-manufacturers-c-3_1322/autoart-1473109-drive-shaft-assembly-for-124-citroen-xsara-p-13402.html They probably won't last long before stock is totally gone. Again.
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 4 years ago
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Alternative helmet straps and car stripes I have surplus supplies from building RC planes. There are sheets of self-adhesive decal material for RC aircraft that measure 5"inches x 36" inches that come in every colour. Some helmets don't come with a pronounced goggle strap. My hand isn't steady enough for paint. I use a paper shear to cut a thin strip of black decal material. I cut a small piece. Then peel and stick one end to the goggles, wrap around past the other side. Then take a razor to cut the excess. These goggle straps were added after the cars were finished. An oversight made in haste from the builder. But an easy way was found to resolve the problem. It also has a 3D effect over a painted strap. Using another colour to make stripes also works. Just know that if you place the decal in the wrong spot. The adhesive is very agressive in that it will lift the paint under it almost every time. Make sure to set it down right the first time. It was easy to stick the decal on the rear wing and trim the excess after it was in place. The nose stripes were a bit harder because they had to be cut to length prior to installation. Thanks for looking
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Inactive User Accounts Gents, With more than 100 user accounts the beginning of the decade is a good time to clean up our home - so I've initiated our website to automatically reset the passwords of inactive accounts. Accounts for which temporary passwords are not changed will be deleted automatically. Cheers! Art
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- 4 years ago
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Older Ontario licence plates Here's a place that offers older Ontario licence plates by year. https://www.licenseplates.tv/ontario.html Don't forget to resize for 1/32.
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in: Decals
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- 4 years ago
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“The Heist” Making of the Porsche Super Bowl Commercial 20 minutes, quite interesting, Porschephile or not, culminating with the commercial. I guess ageing(gracefully) Dancers were more captivating!! Enjoy!! https://youtu.be/qXL1gbI3BXI
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 4 years ago
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How to accurately measure front/rear weight distribution Do you have two almost identical cars where one out performs the other? Like me, did you also question why? There are usually many reasons. One could be weight distribution. Here's a quick way to accurately measure the weight distribution on almost any car. Ingredients: 1) Two food scales from Walmart ($19.95 each)(We already had one in the kitchen. I just swiped it and added a new one) 2) A glass poster that can be leveled, or flat/level table. 3) Two small pieces of plywood to set the cars on. One with a cut-out for the guide. Here's the glass poster I used as a base for the scales. Interesting Hot Wheels poster. :yahoo: I don't think the Corvette will make it to the goldfish bowl. I had to add popsicle sticks under one plywood plate because the new scale was shorter than the old one. Don't forget to re-tare both scales with the wood plates before your test. Now I can closer examine why Fred Steinbroner's Ford Tudor handles the way it does. These scales don't care where the car sits on the wood plates. The edge of the scale still weighs that part of the car accurately. Even if the car sits over one scale a little more than the other. So long as the car is level, the numbers don't change. No need to perfectly center the car to get an accurate reading of weight distribution. Thanks for looking. Ken
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in: How To – Tune It
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- 4 years ago
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One of many SCCA entry lists I was browsing the net for diverse cars to build for future 1960-1965 SCCA races. This one list got my attention for some reason. Is that a Plymouth Barracuda in the middle of the list? :yahoo: This is just one of many SCCA entry lists from one of our favorite sites - Racing Sports Cars. The Slot Car show is around the corner. Happy hunting! Ken
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in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
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- 4 years ago
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What are you working on? Since were all stuck at home. We should have lots of time to start a few projects. I painted 2-cars between yesterday and today. Now they can cure for a week or two before working on them. This started off as George Follmer's light blue T70 Mk2 #16. The body sat in Super Clean for 24-hours. Then it was lightly water sanded with 2000-grit. The paint is Tamiya "Pearl Blue". It's much darker than the lid on the can. I recently saw a race format for 2-stock Trans Am cars and one TA+. That's a great reason/excuse to make one more stock TA car. I had a plain white TA Mustang that needed colour. The colour is Testors "Lime Ice" green with Tamiya clear-coat. My first try at using clear. The Testors metallic is more like a deep metal-flake. Although it looks the exact same colour as Tamiya "Candy Lime" green. They are totally different with respect to the metallic. Everyone please post what you're working on during your isolation. :good:
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Tamiya TS vs PS spray cans I painted 2-cars with Tamiya PS paint by mistake. I was at the cottage for a 2-week vacation, and a glass of wine may have been an influence. Most people tell you never use PS on plastic bodies, and never use TS on polycarbonate bodies (clear RC bodies). Now that I already made the mistake. I needed to find out why? Would I wake up one day and find both cars in a pool of plastic goo? Here are the reasons... TS is made for hard plastic and has a gloss finish when applied correctly to the outside of a body. It doesn't adhere very well to polycarbonate and usually flakes off. PS is made for polycarbonate and is meant to be applied to the inside of a clear body. It has very little natural shine on it's own. If you paint a plastic car with PS paint. It will have more of a matt finish. That's the biggest difference for plastic cars. However, there is an added bonus that your slot car will be fuel-proof. Like it really matters. The green Lotus is TS. The blue Lotus is PS paint... Oops. :wacko: And the other mistake...
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Auto Union Type C D’Arts
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 917 on the street This is on my bucket list! It's only mu, mu, money... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jfLntBaNcms
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 4 years ago
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Testors “One Coat” discontinued Testors "One Coat" spray paints are different from Tamiya in that the metallic is much larger and more of a "metal flake". It's also very hard to get a nice shine from any of the Testors metallic colours without adding clear-coat. So Testors discontinued their "One Coat". The new Testors paint markets under the name Model Master. Everything they make presently is considered 2-stage base and clear-coat. I guess they stopped trying to mix the two together because it wasn't working very well. If you happen to have an old can of Testors "one Coat". Use it wisely (59 Eldorado :good: ). Also... Use it quickly because these old paint cans have a tendancy to erode from the inside of the can and leak. Part of my paint shelf is a nice shade of metallic red. Since the leak, I have decided to store all the Testors cans in an enclosed plastic storage container.
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Nano brushes I bought some Flex-I-File brushes at one of the model shows and never really understood how to use them. So they stayed in my drawer. I prefer to glue things like windshields in place with epoxy. But the risk of a glue-string is always there when using toothpicks. Sometimes you can wipe away the string with a cotton swab (Q-Tip). But the best way is to avoid it altogether. I was somewhat challenged with the Gunze Sangyo kits in that the windshield fits perfectly, but with very little over-lap. Any excess glue would easily show up through the windshield. I bought a variety pack of nano brushes to experiment with. It came with 3-sizes. Small (red), medium (yellow) and large (teal) plus a regular style paint brush (blue). The nano brush is a small puff-ball on the end of a plastic stick that holds a small dot of epoxy. It deposits the glue with amazing precision. Then with a small twist, leaves no strings. It also comes with a re-usable handle. I was able to paint several dots of epoxy at the base of the windshield without any glue contamination. The "rag-top" kits have a weak point. The windshield frame is very sensitive to breaking. It's best to get windshield in the car as soon as possible to protect the frame. I breathed a sigh of relief when this windshield was finally in. Here's the link. They are available in many hobby shops. https://www.flex-i-file.com/magic-nano-brushes.php
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 4 years ago
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R32 XL @ Molto VeLoce – September 12, 2020 [seatt-form event_id=63]
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- 3 years ago
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NEW Slot Track in GTA opening Some of you will have heard this already. Chris announced on a Slot Forum that Ernie Mosettis' is opening a new slot club that will be located just north of Racehaven. There will be two tracks; a routed track and a 135 foot Policar plastic track. See link below for photos. https://www.hrwforum.com/forum/hrw-scale-forums/slot-car-news/48664-new-toronto-area-commercial-track-shop#post48748
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in: Local Slot Car Groups
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- 3 years ago
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1955 Belgian Grand Prix and 1966 Belgian Grand Prix Reminiscent of days gone bye See attached short 30 minute film of the 1955 Belgian Grand Prix where Fangio and Stirling Moss finish first and second for the Mercedes team. A brilliant film highlighting 1950's front motor GP cars and the old SPA track. The fans are all wearing their Sunday best. Terrific! https://youtu.be/7exBtOgys7I A 4 minute clip of the Belgian Grand Prix eleven years later. The race begins 1.5 minutes in-featured first is a fabulous pre-race onboard lap with sound. AMAZING cinematography and shots from ground level in the thick of the race that was filmed by Phill Hill's camera car and also from the air in a helicopter which zooms into a side pan of the #6 car racing through the straights at top speed. The sound cuts out after the first 1.5 minutes but the cinematography is incredible, this is a must see. Due to a flash rainstorm, there was a major crash in the opening laps of this race which included Jo Bonnier in his #20 Cooper at the Burnenville corner. Jackie Stewart driving the #15 BRM crashed on the first lap at the Masta Kink and landed in a ditch where he was stuck upside down in his car for about 25 minutes. https://youtu.be/RCgmdy0jD4I Enjoy!
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 3 years ago
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Tail lights, turn signals, and back up lights I'm still learning much as a model builder and thought I might share some of my mistakes along the way. I used to use straight bright red to paint tail lights. It took a few cars to figure out that clear red looks much better. The clear lens in the bumper was painted from behind. The bullets painted over top. Both came out better than expected. Turn signals were also giving me grief until someone at Group-25 mentioned that "turn signal amber metallic" was avalaible. For back up lights and white turn signals. Gloss white seems to work okay. Note the plain red paint on the Failane tail light. That was painted before I found the clear red. Such is life. :unsure: If you have something to add or share. Please do! :good:
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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Thanks a million to everyone at Scratch32! I can't thank Art enough for creating this section, as well as the opportunity to offer aluminum chassis's here on the Scratch32 site. Art has been extremely helpful along the way. Many lessons and debates on building cars have taken place that helped set this in motion. I would also like to thank Chris Walker for the build lessons and pointers that gave me more understanding about good scratch building. I would also like to thank JMSracer for being my first customer. 10 times in a row now? :good: The idea being these are still for the scratch-builder. The benefits of an aluminum chassis are: 1) This saves a lot of time in getting a car to the point of final assembly. 2) The chassis is as accurate and square as digital equipment can make. 3) Bushings or bearings can easily be installed without solder. 4) The handling characteristics are track proven. 5) This can help someone get started in scratch-building. Thanks a million to the entire S32 club for helping me learn so much in such a short time! Note: An aluminum chassis with a body you painted counts as scratch-built car in Scratch32 rules.
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in: KRZ Custom Chassis
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- 3 years ago
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Getting started Everyone has different gifts and talents. No one has a monopoly on good ideas. Please feel free to send me an email with your questions, concerns, or suggestions. I will try and implement them into this forum. [email protected] Thanks a million! Ken
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in: Assembly Tips
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- 3 years ago
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Body posts The 4-40 brass inserts are easy to install. Just set them on a hard surface, flat side down. Cut the Evergreen tubing a bit longer than required. Then use a small hammer to tap the plastic over the insert until the plastic bottoms out. The chassis needs to be partially assembled to the point of having the wheels spaced to fit snugly inside the body. This photo shows the body sitting on the tires without body posts. Then install the body posts directly to the chassis without washers of any sort. Test the body fit and trim the posts little by little until you like how the body sits. I often trim the posts until the body sits on the tires again. Then add the washers after for a close fit. It's the only way to slam a car. The photo below shows the body posts trimmed to size. The next step is to prepare the body for the posts. I scuff/scrape/scratch up the area where the epoxy will be applied with a knife. While the posts are still mounted to the chassis. I apply epoxy to the inside of the body, and a little to the top of the body posts and set the body on the chassis. For me, the tires resting on the body help keep the body level. You can add equal spacers under both rocker panels if you don't want to slam your car close to the track. Here are the body posts after being epoxied in place. The chassis can be completed for final assembly to the body. The steel and urethane washers have been added. The body sits very close to the tires, and we have body float. But the tires don't rub. :good: A small strip of masking tape is stuck under the chassis to prevent the body screws from backing out. Urethane washers on both sides aren't enough. They all need tape. You'll see it on all my builds. I found the best way to assemble the chassis to the body is... Screw through the chassis first, steel washer next, then urethane washer, to the body post. Lightly snug the screw until it allows the body to wobble ever so slightly. It may loosen up after the first race and require re-adjusting. It should then be good for many races. The urethane washers usually keep the screws and steel washers in place while chassis and body are disassembled for whatever reason. My first car is still on it's first set of urethane washers and going strong. Good old Fred Steinbroner in the funny blue Tudor. These urethane washers last a super looooong time. :good:
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in: Assembly Tips
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- 3 years ago
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Happy New Year! Wishing everyone all the best for 2021! :yahoo:
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in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!
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- 3 years ago
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Routed test track It's not easy to guess how a new car will handle at a race. It's hit/miss without a track. Someone posted this and it caught my attention. It can be configured to go in reverse with the flip of a switch, and has it's own power supply with a potentiometer instead of a hand controller. A bit crude, but it only measures 30" inches by 48" inches. It would not take much to improve it for our own uses. As a first upgrade to this design. You can make all three curves different radiuses. Create a drag-strip beside it if you want to test top speed or acceleration. :yahoo:
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in: How To – Build It
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- 3 years ago
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Rat Rod ideas There are a lot of kits out there that never entered an endurance race. The Studebaker Avanti is one of them. Strange, yet interesting car. It would probably be considered too narrow for a sports car. But it might fit the Rat Rod class in a striking ugly flat grey or flat black with 8-injector stacks and 8-exhaust pipes coming out of the hood. I'm installing headers on my next BRM and have a spare set of these exhaust pipes that would look crazy sticking out of each side of a Studebaker hood. Starting to lean towards the "Mad Max" theme.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Rebuilding Goodwood Sadly, after many many years of service in Beaverton, ON, Goodwood was taken apart earlier this past summer after the passing of owner John F. last year. Thankfully Goodwood found a new owner and is now being resurrected in another beautiful Ontario location. I was happy to take up the challenge of helping move this track to its new home. After months in storage on several skids the pieces survived, albeit some badly warped, but all intact. Since the track was cut into 6 sections (using a 1/8" bit in my trusty router) reassembling the track sections would be straightforward just as it had been built - align, glue, clamp and next...The front straight was quite warped but with a little luck and some help from gravity it came about. This was the first time I had ever tried to straighten a piece of mdf... and it proved to be a much bigger challenge than even the corkscrew of Bass-Seca.Since the reattached sections had fairly tight joints filling, sanding, painting and re-taping could be avoided. After adding patches over the copper joints, a little paint touch up to the track surface and the black borders - all of the original wiring and electronics were connected and tested. At first the overhead gantry wasn't getting any power but after cleaning and reconnecting the socket everything worked as before and we were in business to run some test laps!After thorough testing and many several 100's of laps she is ready to go with just scenery to finish (and rollers to be added)... it took a couple of days to get this far, perhaps a few more to get the rest finished - stay tuned...
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- 2 years ago
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Introduction to The Ring – The Numbers The Ring Mississauga, Ontario, Canada This version of The Ring is the fifth custom routed three lane wood track that I've built for myself. Briefly, the Ring is a private three lane custom routed scale model slot car race track occupying a footprint of approximately 22' x 7'. The track surface is constructed from 3/8" mdf routed using a 1/8" flat bit sunk 1/4" deep. The track 'floats' on open grid bench work and is fully scenerized using a cloth soaked hydrocal hard shell base over cardboard strips. There are 1/8" borders raised an average of 1 1/4" high above the track surface. The three lanes are spaced 3 1/2" apart but for the single squeeze where spacing drops to just 1". Lane lengths are very close (green=72' 2 3/4", yellow=72' 3", red=72' 2 7/8") and the number of left and right turns are identical. Outside gutters are at least 6". Three overpasses provide a minimum clearance of 3 3/4", enough for Fly Euro Trucks. Total track surface elevation change is just 7" but appears greater. Average race surface height from the floor is 2' 9". The track was painted using a standard roller and mid range flat latex paint. Dollar store acrylic paints were used to paint the 'patches', skid marks, lines and race driver tributes. Wired positive, this track was 'taped' using Venture Tape Master Foil Plus 7/32" width and .038mm thick (red core) part no. 1750. Four soldered 'power taps' ensure continuous and uninterrupted power throughout from a Pyramid 30A adjustable power supply. Trackmate hardware and SlotTrak software provide the timing while Trackmate driver stations ensure easy controller hookup via alligator clips or banana plugs. As racing is a priority at this track racer's sight lines and ease of marshaling were kept in mind during the construction of this track. Model railroading inspired the scenic 'dimension'. But for a handful of recognizable items (grid rats and pit accessories, half tires, guardrails, signage posts and 7 'Kleinbahn' HO light posts) everything is scratch built from wood or styrene or cast from either plastic, resin or urethane. All but 5 trees are hand made, including various birches, aspens & hemlocks. Don't overlook what raw scenic materials you can find in your local green belt or at the bottom of a Muskoka lake... Pictures and a blurb on how some of these scenic items were created may make it here. As always, time will tell.
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- 2 years ago
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Welcome to The Rock! A Few Pictures [foogallery id="20363"]
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- 2 years ago
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Making The Ring Constructing The Ring Planning Prior to routing and after contemplating layout alternatives I decided to stick to the past features of tracks that I believed worked best for all forms of 1:32 scale racing with some compromise to facilitate the scenic element I desired. Some of the DO's and DON'Ts I followed: DON'T: Cram too much track into your space - less is more Use mechanical lane switchers or other 'gimmicks' that more often than not fail at some point during an event Use lane cross-overs Try NASCAR style banked turns with corners having an outside diameter of 6 feet or less Have ANY 'humps' (depressions or compressions are fantastic and achieve the same drama) or any abrupt elevation change Incorporate any very tight fixed radius 'kink' in the middle of any long straight Have 'shortcuts' that dramatically favour any lane Place corners or brake zones in obstructed areas Place corners in unreachable spaces Have more than one squeeze zone Have any lane with a diameter less than 10" (10" is already a hairpin) unless this absolutely cannot be avoided Have lane spacing less than 3" anywhere but for a squeeze - 3.5" spacing is ideal Have outside gutters less than 6" away from any outside lane in or after any corner Place any scenic element (ie. guardrails, tire stacks, hay bales, trees) closer than 6" on the outside of any corner or the exit of any corner Make straights perfectly straight DO: Have an odd number of track overpasses Endeavour to make your lanes as equal in length as possible (if you space your lanes the same distance apart throughout without shortcuts they will be the same length provided you have an odd number of overpasses) Place all driver stations along the same vantage 'area' (ie. same side of track) but not too close together (alternate driver hookups spread around any track are great for practice or those times that just a few of you are having some fun) otherwise the home track advantage is too hard for many guest racers to overcome Ensure the last corner before your main timing straight is either an 'easy' corner to drive or a hairpin to minimize the frequency of 'riders' Incorporate at least one high speed corner, one hairpin, one long straight and one squeeze zone (Since preparing this article I've changed my mind and moved away from placing a squeeze in my newer tracks) Have lane spacing of at least 3.5" or 4" in the area directly in front of driver stations. Remember that the higher speed corners require greater lane spacing than just 3" otherwise cars will constantly make contact which is a big problem for open wheel models, especially wider Grand Prix models Routing & Support Structure For efficiency I used three routers, one mounted to an adjustable radial arm to cut the outside track edge, one set up with a jig using two adjustable bearings to cut the outside lane and one with a stepped base (3", 3 1/2", 4" spacing) for center and inside lane routes as well as edges and ditches. I had Luf's flexible strip on hand, some 8' strips of 1/8" hardboard plus the most warped piece of strapping I could find, and from scrap mdf I also made an 'S' shaped template to route each lane for the squeeze so that all three lanes would be identical. If you are an experienced and capable woodworker with the necessary tools and wish to try to route your own track there are no shortage of tutorials elsewhere if you need them. But I will assume that no one with little routing experience would take on this critical component of such a large project... The frame supporting this track is nothing special. It uses a combination of pine (1x4s & 1x2s) and spruce (2x4s) which is hidden by a cloth skirt. A shelf was made underneath for storage. Assembly Now that you've completed or purchased your routed sections and built your open grid support it is time to give your race room a track! Adhering to the 'measure twice' 'cut once' adage means that this portion of the build should come together quickly and with no surprises. Individual pieces were laid over the grid and glued together with white glue using scrap mdf underneath each joint, a section at a time. Proper alignment and clamping ensured a smooth transition. Patience is a virtue! Of course, with more clamps the quicker things go. By the time I clamped the second last joint what was clamped first was already dry... Clamp the last joint to complete the track after all other pieces have dried first. Here the last joint was set and clamped. Perfect joints do not require any fill for smooth performance. If necessary, I use Bondo. But remember, even the most 'perfect' joint will show after painting unless it is filled and sanded. If you do not want a joint to show at all you must fill and carefully sand each one. Now we have a single floating track. Time to add cross members. Strips of pine were laid out in the locations shown and glued and clamped in place underneath the track. These provide additional support and a place to fasten our uprights and later our hardboard borders. Since we didn't use screws there was nothing else to fill or sand on the track surface. Next decide where you want the track elevated. Keep in mind that overpasses should be no less than 3" high - I went with 3 3/4" to be safe. Camber can also be introduced and will have a dramatic impact on how your models perform in the corners. I used 1x4" pieces of pine cut in various lengths as uprights joining the cross members to the frame. Once the uprights are screwed to both the cross members and the frame they can be adjusted later without compromising the track surface. (You may want to tweak camber or the height of any track areas after your uprights are all screwed in place which is easy enough to do - just back out screws from the frame, adjust and then re-screw...) Don't forget you can use your clamps to help add camber, but don't be aggressive - otherwise the mdf will separate - and if this happens you tried to do too much. With 3/8" mdf if you can bend it without breaking it then as a general rule it should be fine for racing on...Elevation together with camber changes are now complete and the track is fully supported. Be conservative with any elevation change, especially rises. Off camber corners are challenging but do not over use them. BE CONSERVATIVE! Lightly sand the slots now. Painting A single coat of flat latex mid grade paint was applied using a standard roller. (Now I recommend using a small foam roller (4" wide) such as the ones you can buy at your local dollar store - this will give you the smoothest finish which will enhance the grip level.) Care was taken to ensure even coverage. Two coats should be perfect - if you need to do yet another coat then you've done something wrong.Areas for concrete patches were masked and painted using the same technique. Concrete sections, asphalt patches and lines were masked and dollar store acrylic paint was applied - for the patches using a small foam roller and for the lines using a small brush and 'dry brush' technique.Cutting uniform lines was made easy using two box cutter blades affixed to each side of a 1/8" scrap of hardboard. Curbs made from the halves of N gauge cork rail bed were also painted white and glued in place. The inside of the slot is not painted. Those that know me understand that I try to make things consistently imperfect to reflect the era of a 1950's or 1960's track... so perfectly solid white lines, curbs colours, etc. must be avoided... For a modern circuit - sure, but that's not my goal here... For the curbs I painted the entire curb white (two coats) and then used a rectangular stamp I fashioned from some solid foam to paint the black checks. As you can see they came out just the way I like them - far from perfect! Cracks in the concrete pads were cut using a fine Xacto knife. Applying a wash brings out the detail nicely. Lane marking 'dots' were applied where needed. Ensure all power tap slots are painted as well as routed ditches. You can mask and paint your skid marks at this point. I did not. Copper Foil Allow paint to dry for several days before applying the copper foil (copper tape). Do not attempt to tape your track in high humidity - this will have a number of adverse consequences down the road and you'll be unhappy with the results. The tape and the mdf have different expansion characteristics, not to mention that mdf absorbs humidity as well and will expand more in a damp environment.Make sure to take your time doing this. Use a single piece for each run trying not to break the tape. Start and stop each run from one of your power tap slots, this way the solder will ensure conductivity both ways. Luf makes a handy tape application tool if you've never done this. I find that applying by hand allows me to stretch the tape carefully around tighter corners for smoother corner transitions. Use a smooth rounded edge to burnish the tape after application, such as the side of a BIC lighter - but make sure not scratch the paint with the metal top! Burnishing the tape is VERY important and I cannot stress this enough. Edging and Facades Overpass facades fashioned after a bunker style poured concrete look were glued and clamped in place. Walls were also added. Ensure sufficient clearance for classes you race. 3 3/4" will accommodate Fly trucks. 1/8" hardboard was cut into 4" wide strips and applied to the outside edges of the track, fixed against those cross members we previously glued in place. Although it varies, border height averages just 1 1/4" above the surface of the track, sufficient to keep a 1:32 scale closed wheel racer on the table.Additional scrap pieces of wood 1" thick were added where more support for the hardboard was needed. Additional hardboard was used to fill in gaps between the border and track. DAP paintable caulk was applied to fill cracks. A hardboard back was also added to support the small hill.Now that outside edging is in place driver's stations were added. I used a minimalist approach but mounted the stations so that the controller hookups were upright. Wiring I use a central harness from 18 gauge wire for each lane which joins the driver's stations to each of the power taps located throughout the track. Trackmate driver stations together with all of the Trackmate timing, gantry and power relay hardware are easy to hook up when you follow the instructions.Make sure to get your polarity right when soldering your power taps though... otherwise you'll drive yourself crazy figuring out what went wrong. Adding a shelf underneath your table for both the power supply and computer is time well spent too. Make sure you test everything thoroughly before attempting any scenery. Scenery After proper wiring and testing it was time to start the scenery. Notice that where appropriate, track edges were routed to accommodate a smooth and realistic hard shell scenery transition to the mdf track surface.Cereal box or other similar thickness cardboard strips were glued to the underside of the track surface and to one another in a 'grid' to provide lightweight yet sturdy support for the wet hardshell to come. Wherever possible I always use white glue rather than other adhesives or fasteners. This part is fun for the kids too! After carefully masking the track surface and covering the rest with plastic wherever necessary it was time for the hydrocal. Small batches of hydrocal were mixed in a large plastic wash bowl and strips of shop rags were dunked in the mixture then quickly applied over the cardboard grid. If a rock casting was to be applied in an area I waited till the mix set and then 'glued' a cured casting in place using more mix, carefully filling gaps and cracks with more of the hydrocal mix and sculpting the surrounding areas as the mix dried. Where smooth or grassy areas were desired I simply brushed on several coats of hydrocal. Until cured, the colour of the drying hydrocal mix is darker and clearly reveals the castings. Woodland scenics water soluble liquid pigments were used to colour the rock formations, applied in several light washes, using just a large brush. Let gravity do the work for you. Soak up excess. A tan base coat of flat latex was brushed on to cover up the rest of the snowy landscape. I let this dry.After masking each area to be worked on a 30/70 white glue/water mixture with a drop of dishwashing liquid was brushed wherever grass was to grow. A liberal sprinkle of a mixture of fine Woodland scenics foam ground cover was applied, using several shakers. After spraying another coat of the glue mixture more ground cover was applied. After the third application of ground cover the grass was done. Adding Man Made Features Custom built structures and other man made elements were then installed. Urethane tire stacks were weathered and glued into place using Gorilla Glue. Scalextric guardrails were cut, painted, weathered and 'nailed' into place. Other details were installed, including an army of urethane straw bales, painted first, then glued into place at several locations around the track.It was a start and although far from finished the track was now ready to host its first race. - Art
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- 2 years ago
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R32 XLIV @ Spa Lyons Thanks for hosting a wonderful return to Spa!!! It was great to bang fenders again with the group!
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- 2 years ago
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Scratch32 Administration Refinements Gents, I removed the black menu bar which used to sit at the top of the page which I believe many users found confusing and problematic to use. Some features did not work using the links from this bar, like changing your avatar for instance. Now if you want to change anything related to your own profile you will have just one option - to go to 'My Profile' in the top menu from any page - and everything there works. Create blog posts from your profile page as well. For new forum topics please make sure you are within the appropriate sub-forum first before starting a new topic, otherwise every new topic goes to the General Information forum. I'll do some housekeeping with this and hopefully everyone will be on board going forward. I also reset all forum user accounts to eliminate the problem that some accounts had with posting new forum topics and replies. I've tested this with a dummy account and it seems to have solved this problem for all accounts which have already posted a topic and a reply in the past, but hey, you never know. If you post a new topic or reply in our forum area and it doesn't appear online immediately after you submit it then it would need approval before being published - it isn't gone or lost - so be patient and it will be approved if need be...
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- 2 years ago
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Recent ‘Brute Force’ & ‘DD0S’ Attacks’ on Scratch32 Gents, Some of you may have recently experienced frustrating delays and/or errors loading pages and forms. This was due to both unprecedented cyber brute force attacks and new DD0S attacks on our website by hackers in multiple countries. Brute force attacks repeatedly try to crack administrator passwords to gain unauthorized access and DDoS attacks bombard the site with coordinated zombies/botnets to flood the server and slow it down or even crash it. Welcome to 2021! I've been monitoring these attacks and tightening our login requirements using several tools. So far I can confirm that no breach has occurred although our website has been very slow at times. With https our site already offers the most secure server side connectivity as is possible so for all users/members there is no need to do anything other than ensure you follow safe internet practices, such as: ensuring your connection to our site is always secure - via https only (you will see a little lock icon beside the address); use a unique password for your Scratch32 account to ensure that should any breach ever occur your password is useless for any other web related services; change your password regularly; and avoid using auto login on your computer. Remember that under 'My Profile' you can also add/remove/edit your own contact information at any time. Please ensure that you only provide as much information as you are comfortable with. To have a Scratch32 account you only need to provide a valid login ID and email address - the rest is superfluous. Scratch32 does not process payments, payment information of any kind nor any financial transaction at all. Links to products from any of our advertisers are handled and processed separately and independently through their own secure servers. No data whatsoever is shared. For example, our title sponsor DArt processes every financial transaction through square.com . For those of you who I may not see over the upcoming break - stay well this holiday season and I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Remember that if we all do our part we will continue to keep Scratch32 safer for all of us to use for years to come.
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- 2 years ago
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George Eyston’s Thunderbolt – Land Speed’s Missing Monster For those who may be interested in this sort of silliness!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTY0shFj_C4
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 2 years ago
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NASCAR (NC) NASCAR (NC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric brand Sidewinder NASCAR (Car of Yesterday or Car of Tomorrow); Stock parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series SC0705 Urethane Tires; Front Tires: Stock Front Tires or DArt Club Series SC0705 urethane tires.
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- 2 years ago
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Group C (GCI) Group C (GCI) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Slot.It brand inline Group 'C' or 'IMSA' model; ‘Stock’ parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Motor: ‘Stock’ White or Orange endbell Slot.It motor; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series D11 or SI0201 Urethane Tires; Minimum overall weight of 80g; Optional modifications: Any Slot.It parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. offset pods and offset crown gears, larger diameter wheels, screws with metal washers, set screws and spacers for aligning front axles, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.
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- 2 years ago
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Group 5 (G5) Group 5 (G5) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Sideways brand Anglewinder ‘Group 5’ model; Motor: ‘Stock’ Sideways plain yellow wrapper; Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D11 strongly recommended]; Minimum overall weight of 84g; Optional modifications: Any parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. pods, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.
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- 2 years ago
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1960’s Endurance Sportscar (60SP) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) v5.0 Eligible Models or Hard Bodies: Any 1960's era Sportscar (production or prototype) that competed in an endurance race between 1960 and 1969 lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tires; Maximum width of body not to exceed 57mm; Minimum overall weight of 75g.
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- 2 years ago
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Scratch32 Accounts Gents, Given the relentless attacks on our website (and ongoing security issues they create) for the safety of our regular participants accounts not used (or logged in) for three months will be deleted without notification.
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- 2 years ago
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Anonymous (Email) Accounts & Spam Gents, Since allowing anonymous (email) accounts to engage our spam folder has gone crazy. You may see some bizarre posters in our forums area but not the posts - since they've gone to spam - it is only after they are manually deleted do they disappear too... so be it. Not a big deal but an annoyance none the less. Let us know your thoughts - is it worth it?
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- 2 years ago
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400+% return in 18 years, who knew!! And it ain't ovah yet!! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2004-porsche-carrera-gt-4/
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 2 years ago
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R32 XLVI FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 12, 2022 @ MVL (12 pm) Classes: NASCAR (NC), 1950's Sportscar (50SP), Group C (GCI) and Group 5 (G5); Format: Random chip draw will determine rotation position for every race. 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4. Five marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. NASCAR (NC): #11 - 103 Laps (17.032 ext.); #88 - 97 (12.852); #48 - 96 (17.690); #24 - 96 (24.944); #43 - 94 (28.211); #26 - 93 (21.312); #88 - 86 (24.484); #48 - 84 (17.647). 1950's Sportscar (50SP): #22 - 97 Laps (23.723 ext.); #6 - 94 (15.710); #10 - 94 (16.949); #18 - 92 (13.085); #47 - 85 (22.485); #7 - 84 (10.104); #701 - 79 (14.864); #56 - 74 (26.678); #36 - 66 (42.060). Group C (GCI): #62 - 109 Laps (11.672 ext.); #62 - 106 (23.255); #14 - 105 (8.310); #25 - 102 (12.745); #85 - 102 (12.933); #7 - 101 (14.288); #38 - 99 (10.675); #6 - 94 (13.880); #62 - 93 (16.308). Group 5 (G5): #23 - 113 Laps (20.485 ext.); #21 - 105 (12.963); #576 - 104 (5.208); #539 - 104 (8.296); #51 - 104 (15.077); #14 - 101 (8.254); #?? - 100 (10.945); #23 - 93 (15.754). [foogallery id="24645"]
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- 2 years ago
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Trans Am (TA) Trans Am (TA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Sidewinder Scalextric and Pioneer Trans Am models Motor: ‘Stock’ Pioneer or Scalextric (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (SC0801 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series (SC0801F Urethane Tires recommended) Minimum overall weight of 85g Optional modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide together with any guide adapter Wheels - front and back may be replaced by any 14mm aluminium wheel. Inserts are to be period correct and resemble original car Axles - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning') Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Gearing - any 36T spur gear may be used together with any manufacturer 11T pinion
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- 2 years ago
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Classic LeMans (CLM) Classic LeMans (CLM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric, Fly and SRC sidewinder 'Prototype' models which competed at Le Mans between 1965 through 1971 Motor - 'Stock' Scalextric, Fly, SRC or equivalent (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (FL0201 or NC0101 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Minimum overall weight of 80g Optional modifications: Wheels - front and back may be replaced with 14mm wheels - Inserts or wheel detail to match the original car Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Axles & Front Pins - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning' Gearing - stock gears may be replaced with any 11T pinion and any 36T crown
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- 2 years ago
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3.0L LeMans (3LM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body open cockpit prototype that competed between 1972 through 1977 in an endurance race such as LeMans (as raced with headlights) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (NC0101 or D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required
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- 2 years ago
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Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any model with or without fenders; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: BWMS050; Tires: Any size DArt Club Series urethane tire (ie. SC0120 (rear) & SC0120F (front) recommended); Maximum width of front and rear rolling assemblies (track) is 50.8mm but bodies/fenders may be wider; and At least one racing number.
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- 2 years ago
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1970’s Grand Prix (70GP) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed from 1970 through 1980; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: Scalextric FF050 or Fly / Flyslot FF050 as provided in current releases by these manufacturers; Tires - Any size DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 16mm; and Front maximum width of 10mm; Maximum overall width is 68.5mm.
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- 2 years ago
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Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body modern (1995 or newer) era model that competed at Le Mans regardless of designation or class Rear Wheels: Minimum 14mm diameter (or larger) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required
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- 1 year ago
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Classic Stock Car (CSC) Classic Stock Car (CSC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a hard top stock car which competed in the 1960's (plus or minus 3 years). All bodies must contain a clear plastic front windshield, rear window and all quarter windows (driver and passenger door windows may be removed) Motor: BWA BWNC1 Wheels: Maximum 14mm diameter Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Tire [DArt D8 or D9 strongly recommended] Minimum overall weight of 100g.
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- 1 year ago
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Modern F1 (F1) Modern F1 (F1) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any 'stock' modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model Motor - must be a 'stock' Scalextric S-can or slim motor - whichever came with the model Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm Optional Modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used - rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels Rear Tires - any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire Front Tires - 'stock' or any DArt 'Club' series urethane replacement tire Rear Axle - may be replaced by a solid axle Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Weight - may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body - no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only) Gearing - stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracing
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- 1 year ago
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1950’s Grand Prix (50GP) 1950's Grand Prix (50GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body model representing a Grand Prix car which competed between 1950 and 1960, typically with engines in front of the driver Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, BWMS050, Vanski FF050 or Ninco NC1 Wheels: maximum 14mm in diameter x 6mm in width Tires: any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire (SC0120 and SC0120F highly recommended) Overall maximum width: 50.8mm
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- 1 year ago
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CANAM (CA) CAN AM (CA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a Can Am car which ran at two sanctioned CAN AM races at different tracks in any year between 1966 through 1974 (coupes excluded) Rear Wheels: minimum 14mm in diameter Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire (NC0101 and D11 recommended, D13 STRONGLY recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series
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- 1 year ago
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Canadian Slot Car Show 2022
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in: Other Local Events & Happenings
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- 1 year ago
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Spam Be Gone! Gents, After some time experimenting by allowing non-registered email posts within our forum recent spam attacks proved more than just an annoyance - so now only registered accounts can post to our forums. Please be advised that throughout this experiment our website was never compromised nor were any user accounts compromised in any way. If anyone or anyone you know wishes to participate in our forums please request or have them request to have an account set up. It is easy to do and safe and secure as well. Cheers!
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- 1 year ago
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1960’s 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) 1966-1969 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a 3.0L Grand Prix car which competed from 1966 through 1969 Chassis: Any inline chassis Motor: Scalextric FF050 as provided in current releases of Scalextric brand cars Wheels – maximum 14mm diameter Tires - Any DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 12mm; and Front maximum width of 7mm; Maximum overall width of 60mm
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- 1 year ago
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Group25 show spoils I reserved a table at yesterdays Group25 show last fall or I would have been at Nova Ridge. I bought more than I sold. Oops. The 1/32 Russian Yak-18 will eventually be hung as a decoration above my new track. It will be painted as a stunt/show plane. The red Strombecker Chapparal 2D is an odd looking thing. You can't have too many Camaro's. Can you? I bought five 1/25 kits. I might turn one into a slot car.
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in: Other Local Events & Happenings
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- 1 year ago
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Nova Ridge Saturday October 15, 2022 Art Thanks again for hosting another day of racing at this fabulous venue. Looking forward to the next one. See attached the photo of the guide wire that just snapped off my Stratos G5 car. This has always been an issue with these cars when using the stock set up with set screws. Now I have a reason to swap the set screws with brass eyelets.
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in: R32
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- 1 year ago
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Riverhampon Photo Collage December 21, 2022
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in: T32
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- 1 year ago
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1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP) 1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed between 1960 and 1965. Cars produced in or prior to 1962 constitute Group 1 cars and cars produced thereafter constitute Group 2 cars Motor: BWA BWMS050 Wheels - Not exceed 14mm in diameter AND: Group 1 wheels must be no more than 6mm wide Group 2 wheels must be no more than 7mm wide Tires: Rear - Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - Any Stock or DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Overall maximum width of 50.8mm
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- 1 year ago
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Trans Am Plus (TA+) Trans Am Plus (TA+) v1.1 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that raced in the Trans Am series between 1966 and 1973 regardless of class. Bodies may not be modified by chopping the roof, adding flares or modifying fenders in any way. Motor: Any Gearing: Any Chassis: Any Tires: Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
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- 1 year ago
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User Login Update I've updated our Scratch32 login process for all users and tested it using a generic test account. All users may now log in using any of these website links: The original MEMBER LOGIN widget at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page; The original Log In fields at the bottom of every forum thread; and The new LOGIN main header menu link at the top of every page (or the new LOGIN footer menu link at the very bottom of every page) which will take you to a new customized login page. After you log in you will see your avatar and user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page, along with a logout link. Please remember to log out using either that link or the logout link underneath the classifieds widget at the bottom right side of every page. After you log in if you wish to view your user profile click on either your avatar or your user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page. You can also edit your profile there, including changing your password or your avatar. Please note that after you log in there will no longer be a black account administration menu at the top of Scratch32 pages. If you wish to edit your user account, change your password or avatar or log out you will need to use the procedures noted above. Should you forget your user name you may now log in using the email address associated with your account by clicking on the LOGIN main menu link. If you forget your password you can have it reset by clicking on the Lost Your Password? link immediately underneath the new login page to receive an email allowing you to reset your password. ***REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER AS THESE PASSWORD RESET EMAILS ARE SOMETIMES FLAGGED AS SPAM. *** Hope this helps... Cheers!
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- 1 year ago
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Unlimited Open (U) Unlimited Open (U) v1.0 Eligible Models: Any body (hard or clear) regardless of class Tires: Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Maximum overall width of 70mm
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- 1 year ago
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1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Tires: Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire; Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
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- 1 year ago
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1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965; Motor: Any Tires: Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire; Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
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- 1 year ago
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Alfa wins 2L Trans-Am Note the date at the bottom of the ad? Nov 24, 1970.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 1 year ago
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Cupcake Raceway hosting SOS32 Sunday Event – held February 26, 2023 What's faster, a 50's Sportscar or a Semi? Does it really matter when 11 racers had a ton of fun running 50's Sportscars, Scalextric cars, Open F1, Group C/Rolex up to 25,000 rpm, and Fly Trucks! Yes, for the first time in a long time, Semi's made it back onto the SOS32 schedule. It might have been the last race of the day, and perhaps the most intense for marshal's, but it was great to see them back on track. Many racers will work on putting in bigger wood guides for the next time, and there will be a next time, likely sooner than later. The day started with 50's & 60"s Sportscars and this class continues to get more competitive regardless if some BWA motors are better than others. Regardless of that, tuning still makes the most difference. The Scaley Stock Plus class may have been the most competitive class, and surprising how quick the cars are getting. The stock chassis, body, interior, and motor make for a great base. Tuner choices for pinion, gear, bushings, and wheels make for some wonderful, and quick, cars. Then it was time for Open F1. With so many new F1 cars on the market it seems senseless to try to create specific classes, so why not run an open class, which we now do on occasion. Seems now though that the Scaleauto F1 car looks to have a lot of potential! As fast as the F1 cars were, the days quickest laps still came from the Group C/Rolex class cars where our host finished a very impressive 2nd ... way to RT! Thanks again to our host for another day of great bagels, great cupcakes, great coffee, great racing on a great track, and, most importantly, a ton of fun with a great group of racers. And next time we race at Cupcake Raceway, sometime in April probably, it will be in the opposite direction. By: JCB Classes: 1) Sports cars 2) Scaley Stock Plus 3) F1 Unlimited 4) Group C - Rolex (up to 25k motors) 5) Fly Trucks (stock motors & gearing) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. Voltage set @ 10v Three marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. Thank you Rob for another fun day of racing and for your hospitality!
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