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    • Hot Rod sub classes From online, email and in person discussions over the past several years it should now be safe to say that the overall class of Hot Rods (HR) breaks down more precisely into the following sub classes: Street Rods (SR) - (aka Hot Rod) - Any modified or customized car or truck model from 1948 or earlier with or without fenders in paint or in primer; Rat Rods (RR) - Any custom car or truck model with a deliberately worn-down, unfinished appearance, typically lacking paint, showing rust, and made from cheap or cast-off parts; Street Machines (SM) - Any modified or customized car or truck model from 1949 or later with fenders in paint or in primer; and Gassers (GS) - A vintage drag car that was popularized in the '50s and '60s (up to 1968) that ran on gasoline and used a straight axle front suspension which gave the model a very high front end stance. Most gassers also sported Halibrand wheels, no front bumper, and had a front mounted Moon tank. The gasser form was dictated by function and most builders looked to eliminate as much weight as possible. Having their exhaust pipes exit through the front fender to shorten the length of exhaust tubing is another common characteristic of gassers. Builders used 1930s through 1950s production coupes or sedans to create these highly modified racing vehicles, including (but not limited to) the following: 1933 Willys Model 77 Coupe; 1940 Willys; 1941 Willys Americar; 1948 Anglia; 1949 Chevy Fleetline or Styleline; 1951 Henry J; 1955 Ford T-Bird; 1955 Chevy Nomad; 1955 Chevy; 1957 Corvette. I believe the first three sub classes are easily covered by the current Hot Rod (HR) class criteria. Gassers are another story never meant to be raced around corners. To encourage realism in Gasser models rather than institute some technical requirement (such as a minimum front axle height) a form of bracket (or minimum lap time) [if they are raced] may be a better solution. A minimum weight limit might also be incorporated to help offset the performance disadvantage. Thank you to everyone for their comments and especially to Belleville Kevin for bringing some much needed clarity to this otherwise vague class.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • R32 LXIX FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 11, 2023 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: Classic Stock Car (CSC) Hot Rod (HR) 1960-1965 SCCA USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) Group C/IMSA (GCI) Unlimited Open (U) [Time Permitting] Format: 4 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.9v Two marshals for every heat Race to line result determines finishing order Classic Stock Car (CSC): #32 - 99 Laps (23.175 ext.) #13 - 96 (24.199) #30 - 94 (21.913) #30 - 87 (19.155) #41 - 85 (21.938) Hot Rod (HR): #2 - 92 Laps (20.605 ext.) #0 - 91 (6.328) #30 - 91 (9.225) #2 - 85 (18.108) #11 - 83 (19.617) #21 - DNS 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+): #4 - 104 Laps (11.001 ext.) #64 - 100 (22.659) #66 - 97 (15,151) #93 - 91 (19.514) #98 - 90 (26.177) Group C/IMSA (GCI): #19 - 109 Laps (8.307 ext.) #86 - 108 (18.287) #14 - 107 (19.347) #1 - 102 (11.275) #6 - 98 (19.759) #34 - 69 (26.714) [foogallery id="38030"] Welcome aboard Sheldon - it may be a steep learning curve but we've all been there - welcome to the hobby! Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Stripping Old Paint Most of us know the benefit of using Super Clean to remove a bad paint job. But every once in a while you get stubborn paint that just won't budge. I bought this pre-painted body at a flea market for $5 as a quick test. Once it past the slot car test. I could not bear to look at the paint. It had a lot of bad blotches in various spots. The body looked like this after soaking for 2-weeks in Super Clean. The hood was the first test for Easy-Off oven cleaner. Overnight in Easy-Off did the trick. The only spots of paint left were from when glued covered the paint.

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 10 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • In Memory of Model Murdering AKA Bill Hall A talented friend and personal HO mentor recently passed away from a massive stroke. Bill Hall was truly an Aurora HO master. He was a reputable Porsche mechanic in the 1:1 world. But he loved tinkering with slot cars. Bill did not invent "goop" (50% plastic and 50% Testors 3502 plastic cement). But he sure was an artist with it. Bill repaired old and rare cars that were long since discontinued back in the 60's. He could take a car that was stepped on, missing body posts and quarter panels. And reform every part to a factory finish. In proper colour, and without paint. I'll let the pics speak for themselves. Slate grey is one of the rarest Aurora split window Stingrays for HO size slot cars. Bill didn't get a chance to polish it before passing away. An old El Camino that got crushed. Beside broken window posts. One of the second biggest issues with old Aurora cars is many people opened up the rear fender wells with a rough blade or file to get monster tires to stick out past the body. The flea markets are littered with them. Most colours aren't worth saving. But black ones sure are. R.I.P. my dear friend Bill Hall.

      Started by: KenKen in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 4 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQs Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQ By Steve DeGeyter — October 16, 2023 Q: What does NiMH stand for? A: The material is Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) which has many advantages over other battery construction materials. Q: What is meant by battery memory? A: Older generation and batteries with other chemical make-up were subject to a memory effect. This is when a battery must be fully drained before recharge or their capacity is reduced. The New Generation of NIMH batteries do not develop a memory effect and can be recharged at anytime during usage cycle. When uncertain about battery charge level or condition, recharge it. Q: What is the mAh rating mean? A: This is a rating of energy storage capacity mAh = “milli-ampere hours”. So if you are comparing batteries to a AA with a 2000 mAh rating, it will have twice the capacity of a 1000 mAh rating. Q: What is the best application for NiMH batteries? A: Most all applications where there is a high energy consumption and demand, is where NiMH belongs. The most popular applications are digital cameras, flashlights, and toys. If you find yourself constantly buying alkaline batteries for an application, then you should consider using rechargeable NiMH. Q: How many times can a NiMH battery be recharged? Rechargeable NiHM BatteriesA: Lower capacity rechargeable AA batteries of 1700 up to 2000mAh can be recharged up to 1000 times in overnight slow charge mode, while 2100 to 2400 mAh rechargeable batteries can be recharged up to 600 to 800 times in overnight slow charge mode. The new higher capacity AA 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries have greater power capacity, but they can only be recharged approx 500 times in the overnight mode. Capacity improvement or quick charging will always decrease the number of cycles. Every cell available on the market above 2100 mAh will have below 1000 charge cycles. Q: What applications are not good places to use NiMH batteries? A: Any situation where the battery is not used within a 30 day period or low energy draw devices, for example smoke alarms, emergency flashlights, clocks, TV remotes, etc. Q: Why won’t NiMH batteries work in some applications such as smoke alarms? A: NiMH batteries self discharge about 1% per day so if used in a low energy consummation or stand-by device, the battery will only last about 90 days before requiring recharge. Q: Can I use a higher rated mAh battery in my electronic device (i.e. 1800mAh vs. 2000mAh)? A: Yes, the mAh rating will give you longer run times between recharges. The higher rated mAh of a battery has no effect on electronic devices other than they allow longer term use. Q: Why are AA and AAA batteries rated at 1.2 volts and alkaline batteries rated at 1.5 volts? A: In fact, over the course of their discharge, alkaline batteries actually average about 1.2 volts. The main difference is that an alkaline battery starts at 1.5 volts and gradually drops to less than 1.0 volts. NiMH batteries stay at about 1.2 volts for almost 80% of their discharge cycle. Once alkaline batteries discharge to 50% capacity, it will be delivering a lower voltage than a NiMH battery. Q: What you NEVER want to do with replaceable batteries? A: Never mix batteries from different manufacturers Never mix batteries of different capacities Never mix batteries of different chemistries, i.e. NiCd, NiMH, Lithium, etc. Never DROP the battery if you can help it as NiMH batteries damage internally quite easily Never store NiMH in the refrigerator Never expose to extreme heat Q: Do NiMH batteries lose capacity over time? A: Yes, but nothing drastic. About 10 to 15% of the battery mAh capacity will be lost at the 400 to 800 recharge level. This will vary greatly because of battery and charger quality, along with how the consumer treats their batteries. Q: When I receive my batteries do I need to charge them? A: Yes, before you use them for the first time, you need to charge your NiMH batteries fully. Please note that for new NiMH batteries, it is often necessary to cycle them at least three to five times or more before they reach peak performance and capacity. The first several times that you use your NiMH batteries you may find that they run down (discharge) quickly during use. Don’t worry, this is normal until the batteries actually structure internally. Q: Is there a difference in chargers. i.e, fast, slow, microprocessor controlled, etc? A: Yes, there are differences in the different chargers on the market today. If the charger was designed and sold in the past couple years and specifically says it is made to charge NiMH batteries you are probably okay. Most of the new chargers use a small computer chip to manage the charge and you should be getting at least 500 charges from your batteries. If not, buy a new charger. Some of the no name batteries sometimes have a short life. Fast chargers also tend to give shorter battery life of less than 500 charges. Q: How do dispose of old NiMH batteries? A: This is an easy one! While it is safe and legal in most states to dispose of your NiMH battery in your regular trash, we always encourage recycling whenever possible.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 2 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • ‘Mini’ Bugatti Type 35 [Translated] From Instagram: In 1927, Ettore Bugatti made for his youngest son Roland, a mini Type 35, which was very successful. A small series of less than 500 copies will eventually be produced, all numbered and reserved in priority for the brand's loyal customer. (Young Prince - the future king of Morocco, Hassan I, is offered a Bugatti Baby, accompanied by his father, on the occasion of their visit to the Molsheim factories. The future king of Belgium, Baudouin, child, was also offered a copy) They are powered by a Paris Rhône electric motor powered by a 12-volt battery and linked by a crown sprocket to the rear axle. The aluminum sheet metal is mounted on a chassis, top speed of 18km/h. The front hood is held up by two leather straps, and the steering wheel is marked inside one of the "Baby 34" branches. The vehicle has a front blade suspension on a rigid axle. The rear has a fixed rigid axle. Front pivots and rear axle are now greasers. Direction, visually, is transmitted by kneepads and bars. The dashboard is equipped with a load control amp and a contactor/inverter (reversing/stop/forward step). Acceleration is ensured by a pedal that acts on a rheostat at 6 positions. The workout is done on the right rear wheel (creating a sort of differential), via a multiplier. And drum brake, on all 4 wheels, is cable controlled using a hand lever located on the right side, outside of the vehicle.  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 weeks ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1986 Benetton B186 My favourite F1 livery... The BMW Benetton B186 from the 1986 Hungarian GP piloted by Austrian Gerhard Berger. Rumoured to have had the highest HP engine in F1 history and if memory serves I believe set the fastest top speed ever recorded by an F1 car.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 weeks ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Can Am!! Must see video, chronicling history of the series. Not sure if I posted on prior iteration of the site, but here it is for your enjoyment! 1st race shown is Players 200 at Mosport, just prior to the creation of the Group 7 Can Am class, and then off to St.Jovite, which hosted the inaugural CanAm. Enjoy!   https://youtu.be/jQA9eZ5GCF8    

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Update: Classifieds Email Not Working – Working Now! Gents, Unfortunately it was brought to my attention that the contact form used for our classifieds area doesn't work - it will not send a message to the seller. For the time being please contact any seller directly. The website does send emails notifying me of administration events so I am not sure why this plug in doesn't work... it is a head scratcher... perhaps gmail accounts are not supported - which is a big problem. If I cannot resolve this issue then I will either remove the classifieds area or replace it with another equally suitable and working marketplace. Sorry about that.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

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    • 1 week ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Slot It 2.4h – August 18, 2007 Slot It 2.4h The Ring - August 18, 2007 [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/070818-SlotIt24-SlotTrak-Qualify-Report.pdf" title="070818 SlotIt24 SlotTrak Qualify Report"] [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/070818-SlotIt24-SlotTrak-Race-Results.pdf" title="070818 SlotIt24 SlotTrak Race Results"]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 16 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1000km – November 10, 2007 1000km The Ring - November 10, 2007 [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/071110-SlotTrak-Qualify-Report.pdf" title="071110 SlotTrak Qualify Report"] [pdf-embedder url="http://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/071110-SlotTrak-Race-Report.pdf" title="071110 SlotTrak Race Report"]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 0
    • 16 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • SlotTrak version 12.32 Gents, In my opinion the best timing software is SlotTrak Pro. The current version is 12.32 and those of you with version 11.xx will need to pay $15 U.S. to upgrade, otherwise a fresh install is $75 U.S. . You will need to receive your registration key from them in order to run the software for more than a few laps... I recommend that you install the software on your computer first and test it before payment/key request. SlotTrak Commercial can control individual lane power and is designed for those that sell time. SlotTrak Software Every track in our rotation (but for The Lake) runs SlotTrak (either 11.xx or 12.xx). One of the benefits of this is that several of us can assist whenever an issue arises. I would urge each of you to read the manual SlotTrak Manual after installation. SlotTrak works seamlessly with Trackmate hardware which can be purchased at Trackmate Racing. Most in our group use the Trackmate for windows module, power relay module, driver stations, track call buttons and at least the DC Power Supply 3020 (30v, 20A). Cheers! Art B-)

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Uploading Files Images are straightforward but I've added an individual file uploader which will allow us to upload more types of files, such as .pdf and .doc . The only restriction is file size which I've limited to 500k - unfortunately most MSword files well exceed that... Cheers! Art

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Target 100k per Picture For those of you sharing/uploading images - please try to target 100k (or less) for the file size. If you wish to upload anything larger then you will first need to change the format/size/resolution to get it down to a manageable size (ie. a digital photo from my camera can be as large as 4mb each). Cheers - Art

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Forum Server Update (Feb 19/16) -now you can insert images from your computer directly into your post by clicking on the 'insert/edit image' button (to the far right of the toolbar under the 'Visual' tab) - this will upload the image to the server and embed it into the body of your text... you must do one at a time... [to insert a link to an image already on the web you can click on the 'Text (HTML)' tab and then use the 'img' icon/button to insert that link - which we were already doing before - use a separate line for every link to image to keep things tidy...] Cheers! Art :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 9 Essential Car Adhesives The 9 Essential Car Adhesives: All but 2 of these you might just already have in your garage - and if you do - make good use of them. As always, there may be better or worse things which you can use but these are what I recommend and use myself on any car I blueprint or blackprint for R32 racing. There are 9 adhesives or 'connecting' helpers which I consider essential and which are available at most local retailers and hobby shops in Mississauga. Here they are: 1) Gorilla Super Glue - I was a big believer in Black Max but at just $8 per bottle I was a convert. My new favourite super glue is flexible yet permanent and fills gaps well. Easily dispensed on a clean scrap of paper and applied using a toothpick I use this adhesive for gluing plastic wheels to axles, bushings to chassis (or slot.it bushings within the pod bushing holders), bushing filling (to prevent axle slop on stock classes) and when initially positioning body posts. On occasion I also use this to reinforce the outer edges of tires to the wheels in our fastest classes if the tire begins to pull away from the wheel. Do not use this near clear plastic because it will 'haze' the clear plastic. If you need to remove a part later apply Acetone (or nail polish) carefully with a Q-tip until the glue dissolves. The nose and cap are well designed, durable and easy to maintain which means you will use up all the glue before tossing it. 2) Gorilla White Urethane Glue - The regular formula is fine but I've switched to the white urethane glue which is supposed to dry faster and doesn't need a 'wet' mate surface - it does expand like the original so use it sparingly. I apply this to my wheels (again using a toothpick) to glue all of my tires to the rim. Apply it VERY SPARINGLY but make sure you fully coat the entire surface. Keep some bent axles for this purpose and mark them - they are great to use when gluing the tires... also make sure that the tire is 'true' before setting it aside to dry (not wobbling on the wheel). Others in our group use only super glue or nail polish to glue their tires - it is a matter of preference. The dispenser on the smallest size (pictured) is also very good and easy to keep clean but chances are the glue will go off before you use it all up so don't waste your money on a larger size. 3) Gorilla Clear Epoxy - The best way to fix a windshield is with a clear epoxy and this is what I prefer to use - but it is permanent so make sure the part fits first. It doesn't haze clear plastic and it is also great for fixing and reinforcing LEDs to/behind lenses. I also use this to reinforce or glue piano wire to chassis (where permitted). It can also be used for permanently fixing body posts but this is not my preferred adhesive for that purpose. Mix and apply with a toothpick. 4) J-B-Weld - To fix a crack or fill a gap or to strengthen a chassis nothing beats JB. I use this to glue or 'fix' most of my pods in position. I also use this liberally to permanently fix body posts after they are positioned using super glue. Again, mix and apply with a toothpick. Remember that this epoxy contains iron filings and therefore it will 'pool' or be drawn to magnets if any are close by - so don't use this near any magnet (unless you wish to). Since this dries overnight leave this for last. 5) Hot Glue (Sticks) - I am not the expert on hot glue nor do I really enjoy using it but it is relatively easy to use, easy to remove and has some resiliance which makes it a perfect gap filler, adhesive for pods and motors, and chassis/pod stiffener. You can glue just about anything to anything using hot glue, even if the pieces are miles apart. I use it to reinforce a glued motor to the pod or chassis along the 'sides' of the motor on faster classes since there are usually gaps which the more viscous adhesives cannot bridge. It also can be used to reinforce the gaps between the motor and bushing upright(s) on Group 5 motor pods. 6) Household/Automotive Clear GOOP - I use this to fix my motors in 'snap in' plastic chassis on both the drive and endbell (front and rear) sides which are in tight contact with the motor mounts. To remove a motor which is glued this way simply use a sharp X-acto to 'cut' the adhesive along the joints and after removing the motor just peel off the adhesive from the motor and from the chassis. A black coloured version (automotive version) can be used to coat LEDs after they are fixed in place to ensure durability and prevent light bleed, fix wires in place and fill gaps or reinforce interior components or trays where needed. It is also useful for fixing mirrors or other body components which may be subject to abuse... 7) Micromark Same Stuff Plastic Welder - I use this to repair or fix plastic/styrene bodies and all body components, including interior trays. This does not however work with the resin parts that I cast. Be careful since this will eat any painted finish and runs like crazy but it will fix any broken plastic piece to near original condition. I like the Micromark stuff since it comes with an applicator brush unlike Tenax or some others. 8) Micro Krystal Klear - Similar to a white glue on steriods this is great for fiddly windscreens and to fill or fix imperfect windscreen/window application borders. I also use this stuff to fill in body post holes when chassis screws do not stay in place and to fix inserts inside aluminium wheels. [BTW - never use Loctite on body posts - it eats the plastic.] 9) Solder - Your typical flux (282) filled electronic solder 63/37 to fix motor wires (preferrably silicone shielded) to motor leads - apply to the wire and to the motor leads separately then join with more heat... I use an acid flux with solder to fix no. 2 DuBro steel washers to solid steel axles for my independent axle set up but that is a topic for another subforum... Furthermore, not mentioned here are scenic adhesives (for which I use four: LePages White Glue, Super 77, Hydrocal and double sided adhesive tape) or fixing agents for decals (Krylon Crystal Klear or Matte Finish) and decal application helpers (Micro Set & Micro Sol)... Hope this helps a little... Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Wrong Set Screw w/Slot.It 16mm Anglewinder Gears Just a friendly heads up that I found a Slot.It 16mm anglewinder gear I recently received from slot car corner (which came in the usual slot.it original packaging) contained a 3mm set screw which was not 'cupped' but rather 'flat' tipped. I didn't order more of these gears so I don't know if this might be a one off or not. Normally you wouldn't even notice this. Never use a 'flat' tipped set screw if you intend for your wheel/gear to stay in place - they are however great to use to adjust/set the height of your front axle in any class where this is allowed... ;-)

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • March 30, 2016 – The Ring Classic Stock Car (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Classic Stock Car Results 1. Art - 72 Laps (7.921 ext.) 2. JMs - 70 (14.262) 3. JmO - 68 (11.249) 4. MiA - 66 (20.480) 5. FCe - 65 (14.189) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 78 Laps (19.797 ext.) 2. JMs - 73 (12.446) 3. JmO - 70 (5.875) 4. FCe - 66 (0.234) 5. MiA - 59 (24.731) Euro Truck (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Euro Truck Results 1. Art - 71 Laps (10.840 ext.) 2. JoB - 68 (11.756)* 3. JmO - 65 (13.822) 4. MiA - 61 (16.835) 5. JMs - 60 (5.351) Group C/IMSA (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Group C/IMSA Results 1. Art - 86 Laps (10.908 ext.) 2. JoB - 84 (8.451) 3. JMs - 79 (8.182) 4. FCe - 77 (11.121) 5. MiA - 77 (14.265) 6. JmO - 76 (10.049) 3.0L LeMans (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 3.0L LeMans Results 1. JoB - 89 Laps (9.227) 2. Art - 89 (11.682) 3. FCe - 81 (8.877) 4. MiA - 80 (10.585) 5. JmO - 77 (11.704) 6. JMs - 73 (32.955) Cheers to those who could make it out to race... with and without controllers! It was also nice to see the progress that FCe and MiA have made in such a relatively short time... - Art :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • April 20, 2016 – The Ring Sportscar (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Art - 73 Laps (12.837 ext.) 2. JoB - 73 (13.352) 3. DwM - 72 (12.281) 4. JMs - 70 (10.236) 5. JmO - 70 (10.864) 6. BiG - 69 (11.053) 7. FCe - 69 (11.209) 8. Bob - 68 (14.214) Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Trans Am Results 1. Art - 78 Laps (3.354 ext.) 2. JoB - 78 (12.772) 3. JMs - 76 (8.275) 4. FCe - 76 (9.193) 5. Bob - 75 (15.314) 6. JmO - 75 (18.308) 7. DwM - 74 (18.317) 8. MiA - 71 (7.704) 9. BiG - 71 (10.824) CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) CAN AM Results 1. Art - 89 Laps (6.534 ext.) 2. JMs - 87 (12.180) 3. BiG - 85 (12.130) 4. DwM - 83 (3.126) 5. JoB - 82 (8.602) 6. FCe - 81 (5.638) 7. MiA - 79 (6.051) 8. JmO - 78 (11.675) 9. Bob - 70 (8.438) 1970's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 90 Laps (7.665 ext.) 2. BiG - 85 (9.425) 3. JoB - 84 (9.545) 4. Bob - 82 (9.226) 5. DwM - 82 (9.474) 6. FCe - 81 (9.677) 7. JMs - 81 (13.508) 8. JmO - 79 (5.535) 9. MiA - 76 (15.388) Cheers to everyone who participated in an exciting race night! Ferrari 512BB cars were ready to go if we had enough time to squeeze in an IROC race, but that was not in the cards... See everyone next week! Art :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 1
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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • April 30, 2016 – The Ring Classic Stock Car (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Classic Stock Car Results 1. KKr - 96 Laps (13.377 ext.) 2. Art - 94 (8.085) 3. DoS - 91 (6.090) 4. JMs - 91 (12.086) 5. DnP - 87 (16.245) 1960's Grand Prix (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results 1. KKr - 105 Laps (11.156 ext.) 2. Art - 104 (13.318) 3. JMs - 97 (3.443) 4. DnP - 93 (17.565) 5. DoS - 87 (13.182) Group C/IMSA (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group C/IMSA Results 1. Art - 119 Laps (16.495 ext.) 2. KKr - 118 (14.847) 3. JMs - 110 (12.331) 4. DoS - 105 (4.645) 5. DnP - 97 (9.236) 3.0L LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 3.0L LeMans Results 1. Art - 121 Laps (11.772 ext.) 2. KKr - 120 (14.785) 3. JMs - 107 (11.585) 4. DnP - 102 (14.941) 5. DoS - 99 (7.386) Cheers to everyone who was able to make it out to race at The Ring to close out the 2016 R32 Winter Racing Season! See everyone next week when we kick off the 2016 Summer Racing Season! - Art :bye:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Final Clear Coat – Future/Pledge is It! You've spent hours painting a body and decaling it and now need to give it a final clear coat to hold everything together. You can use Pledge - brush it on or dunk it... your choice... You can add coats easily as every coat 'melts' the prior coat and fixes blemishes. Use a dust cover when drying... and drying only takes a few hours depending on thickness. Remember, when using this add a drop of windex to minimize the yellowing over time... it is very susceptible to light and heat. I prefer the Tamiya line of hard clears... but this is the easiest way to clear coat anything, especially if you are in a rush. B-)

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 8 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • June 15, 2016 – The Ring NASCAR (180 sec. x 3 x 2 = 18 min.) NASCAR Results 1. Art - 161 Laps (30.508 ext.) 2. DwM - 159 (19.636) 3. JoB - 158 (24.531) 4. FCe - 156 (23.993) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. Art - 116 Laps (9.923 ext.) 2. JoB - 108 (8.177) 3. DwM - 107 (6.618) 4. FCe - 106 (12.431) Group 5 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group 5 Results 1. Art - 120 Laps (7.501 ext.) 2. JoB - 120 (9.881) 3. DwM - 113 (7.122) 4. FCe - 109 (11.626) LMP/GT (150 sec. x 3 x 2 = 15 min.) LMP/GT Results 1. Art - 152 Laps (16.076 ext.) 2. JoB - 152 (24.336) 3. DwM - 146 (19.093) 4. FCe - 136 (18.123) What a fast paced night of racing with some very close finishes... Cheers! - Art :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • October 5, 2016 – Molto VeLoce Circuit NASCAR (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) NASCAR Results 1. Art - 97 Laps (10.961 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 96 (10.088) 3. Drew - 95 (7.622) 4. Jim O. - 90 (12.491) 5. MiA - 84 (16.954) Sportscar (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Art - 88 Laps (7.082 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 88 (8.599) 3. Drew - 88 (14.737) 4. Jim O. - 87 (7.026) 5. MiA - 74 (12.278) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. Art - 102 Laps (8.094 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 101 (16.201) 3. Drew - 98 (11.623) 4. Jim O. - 91 (8.380) 5. MiA - 90 (8.019) CAN AM (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) CAN AM Results 1. Drew - 104 Laps (5.620 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 104 (10.093) 3. Art - 101 (9.773) 4. Jim O. - 99 (14.904) 5. MiA - 94 (11.047) Cheers to all those that could make it out to participate on such a beautiful day in Oakville! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Decal Sheet Punches Local Dollarama's now have a very small 3/8" roundel punch... just the size I was looking for... perhaps the most popular diameter for 1/32 scale vintage Grand Prix/sports cars... now all you need to do is print your number on white decal paper and punch it out... but you'll need to clear coat it beforehand...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Decals

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • November 2, 2016 – The Circuit Euro Trucks (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) ET Results 1. John B. - 92 Laps (8.470 ext.) 2. Art - 90 (6.476) 3. Jim M. - 89 (9.290) 4. Jim O. - 83 (20.110) 1950's Grand Prix (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 50GP Results 1. Art - 97 Laps (15.511 ext.) 2. John B. - 95 (7.793) 3. Jim O. - 93 (11.848) 4. Jim M. - 92 (21.656) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. John B. - 108 Laps (14.306 ext.) 2. Art - 106 (8.787) 3. Jim M. - 105 (15.249) 4. Jim O. - 96 (16.708) 3.0L LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 3LM Results 1. Art - 111 Laps (8.427 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 110 (5.393) 3. John B. - 110 (14.193) 4. Jim O. - 106 (12.039) Cheers to John and both Jimmys for making it out to race! See everyone next week.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • SlotTrak 12.44 SlotTrak has updated its software to 12.44... They mention that this update takes care of several bugs, one which sounds like it might deal with that repeating button press which some of you are experiencing in between heats...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • December 5, 2016 – The Ring 1950's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1950's Grand Prix Results: Art - 70 Laps (13.916 ext.) DoS - 69 (11.688) BiG - 67 (9.704) JmO - 66 (11.909) MiA - 66 (16.241) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results: Art - 76 Laps (8.466 ext.) BiG - 75 (11.080) JmO - 72 (8.738) MiA - 69 (9.647) DoS - 57 (12.580) 1970's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results: Art - 86 Laps (11.613 ext.) BiG - 83 (12.615) MiA - 79 (14.874) Jim O. - 78 (9.079) Cheers to everyone who was able to participate! Some very good and extremely gentlemanly racing! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite 1968 Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite PQ. 1968 Rolling to the start line. What a front row!! :yahoo: Right Jack?? :scratch: It might be just the angle, but it sure looks like the rear wing dihedral has changed under load??? :unsure: Apparently someone had a sense of humor?? :wacko:

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 7 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • 1969 CANAM Mosport – McLaren M12 #98 (George Eaton) George Eaton bought and raced a customer McLaren M12 throughout the 1969 CANAM season as #98. Here he is at Mosport: He never did win a race in any discipline during his career but he nevertheless remains a Canadian racing legend. DArthobbies has an M12 lightweight body kit for those of you that wish to model what he raced in 1969. He would later race for BRM and the iconic Castrol livery in CANAM... that is likely how most of you recognize him. :scratch:  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Wheel of Misfortune As those already know who participated in the most recent version of Ringwood - Ringwood XX - we now have a hand painted spinning wheel called the Wheel of Misfortune. It has 16 'sections' - every section painted like a racing flag... The purpose of the wheel is to discourage 'offs' or 'crashes' during heats - and it works... Here are the flags with their penalties... Or Download the attachment below to read the explanations for every flag...  :good:  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Monday, July 31, 2017 (4:30 – 6:30pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis 2 This is a continuation of our first session on completing a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for the Ferrari P4 body/class. We're using a Piranha motor with slot.it gearing, BWA wheels, DArt tires & inserts, and a Fly guide along with a modified Scaley body/interior. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We’ll have pizza and refreshments as usual followed by Ringwood XXI. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 31, 2017 – 4:30 - 6:30pm Where: The Ring [seatt-form event_id=3]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Harry O’Reilly Schell (1921-1960) A gentleman racer and very good friends with the Marquis de Portago (ring a bell?). See the attached article below but you must be logged in. In this famous picture he is slowing to receive a refreshment during practice prior to the Portuguese Grand Prix. Notice Jo Bonnier parked and looking on...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Gallery Feature Added We've added a new gallery feature. Go to the gallery using the link in either the header or footer menus. The gallery will include pictures from every event to supplement the event reports, plus others. User/contributor galleries (also for original pictures authored by registered users/contributors) may be available soon. Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 2.4h Group C Endurance Race In keeping with both past tradition and our scratch building focus this fall we will incorporate another full day event for a 2.4h Group C 'enduro'. Obviously this will involve either a scratch built chassis OR body (or both) and is not limited to stock components (any components may be used). A marked hand out tire will be provided to those that pre-register before the deadline. Multiple entries will also be encouraged. Stay tuned for more details. Thoughts, comments and suggestions are encouraged at this early stage.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 I – The Ring – September 6, 2017 R32 I September 6, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="3834"] Results NASCAR (NC) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #48 - DwM – 81 Laps; #3 – KKr – 80; #17 – KKr – 79; #11 – ArT – 78; #7 – ArT – 78; #24 – DwM – 77. TRANS AM (TA) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 80 Laps (9.741 ext.); #1B – KKr – 80 (12.070); #1R – KKr – 79 (10.919); #98 – ArT – 76 (12.673); #35 – DwM – 73 (10.098); #2 – DwM – 72 (12.425). GROUP 5 (G5) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 123 Laps (12.222 ext.); #598 – KKr – 117 (8.183); #23 – DwM – 110 (10.801); #51 – MiA – 110 (11.594); LMP/GT (LMP) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #12 – ArT – 124 Laps (12.227 ext.); #009 – KKr – 119 (5.168); #8 – DwM – 117 (9.980); #1 – MiA – 114 (11.512); Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • David Piper Sandeman & Castrol GTX Just some of the images I used to make up my Sandeman decals along with some Castrol GTX stripes and logo... attached below in an MSWord file so you can manipulate and change numbers, names, etc. - hopefully you have the same fonts installed... if not I can upload a .pdf file too...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Decals

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1962 BRM P578 'Stackpipe' A wonderful article on the 1962 BRM P578 Stackpipe (attached below). "The best compromise seemed to match the pipe lengths, which meant pointing them skywards, and adding megaphone ends to assist extraction. Thus the slinky 578 gained its famous stackpipes: its most famous feature is a drag-making lash-up."

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • MotorSport Podcast series Really great series of podcasts with many historic figures from F1 and other series Alastair Caldwell McLaren Team manager podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsbXE2Owaps Many others Frank Dernie ex Williams engineer is another great one. Enjoy!    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Tamiya Modeling Wax I've just started using this product from Tamiya and it really does bring out the lustre of your paint. It comes with its own 'cloth' applicator and is very easy to apply. No white haze after applying but make sure to remove any excess and simply buff to a brilliant shine with a tiny piece of cotton T-shirt scrap - just remember to be careful picking up your model since it will be slick - and no finger prints either! I haven't used this yet over unprotected decals so I'm not sure if it will attack them - best to do a test piece first. Retailing for around $12-$15 per bottle/kit at almost any hobby shop (that carries Tamiya products) a tiny drop goes a long way so price shouldn't really be a worry.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • SlotTrak 13.03 – Free As many of you know, slottrak became freeware last fall. For those of you with a purchased version updated to 12.50 there is no substantive change apart from the software now being free. For that reason I don't see any need to update your track software to this newest version unless you are having hardware compatibility issues.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Warm up for Ringwood A couple of clips to get one in the mood for the upcoming Ringwood. French G.P. 1965 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2XUs9_Uds4 1965 Nurburgring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8NoFM-xuKI 1967 German Grand Prix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRaAMzqYxpE Enjoy  

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Country Colour Reference Chart A quick and useful guide (attached below in .pdf format) for those of you who are considering applying colours - especially if your only resources are black and white photographs without written detail. If you discover that anything in this chart is incorrect please let us know by replying within this thread/topic. ;-)

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Vintage A great initial get together for the 1934 Correa Ford V8 Special from the Rio GP and Sir Tim's 1930 4 1/2L Blower Bentley from LeMans!!!  Both ran remarkably well while still maintaining their correct 'tall' appearance. Maybe even more remarkable was that despite a big dis-similarity in weight, size, motor and gearing, both cars made similar enough lap times that racing will actually be feasible and fun and they looked spectacular together on the track!! World's apart as 1:1 racers, but they didn't appear inappropriate together today. This is going to be fun!! :yahoo:

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

    • 1
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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Adding a Face & Shield to that Helmet For Targa V I re-entered my Porsche 908/2 with pilot Gijs van Lennop (red helmet) at the wheel but felt that another racing upgrade was necessary - not to the motor or chassis - but to the pilot's helmet. The DArt HT70 comes in two pieces - helmet and opaque visor - so I decided to remove the visor and add some facial detail by cutting a cross section of HD05 - enough to fit inside the helmet - which I painted complete with fire resistant balaclava. I sliced off both sides of the original opaque visor, painted them flat black and added them to either side of the visor gap, but before doing so made a template from which to cut the visor. I hate working with thin pieces of brittle transparency and so for the visor I decided to experiment with something much easier to cut and handle... Using the template I traced and cut out a slightly larger piece from a clear plastic bag (yes - the same bags that all of the DArt parts come in) and placing a very small drop of clear epoxy on either side (where the visor pivots would be) I added the clear plastic visor making sure that it was tight across the face of the helmet as the glue set. After this dried a small drop of silver paint would be added on either side of the visor as visor pivots and to help cover up where the epoxy was applied. The upgraded visor and helmet performed flawlessly - and more are on my 'to do' list for other models. :yes: Total cost was $3.50 (HT70 $2.50 + HD05 $1 + bag they both come in)...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

    • 1
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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

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