Topics with most replies

Home / Page 3

› Forums › Topics with most replies

Viewing 100 topics - 201 through 300 (of 838 total)
1 2 3 4 … 7 8 9
    • Topic
    • Voices
    • Replies
    • Last Post
    • 1953 Carrera Panamericana winner       Fangio and Bronzoni won the 1953 Carrera Panamericana in their number 36 D24 Lancia. The slow motor classes are some of my favorites so I thought I'd give o'l number 36 a try. When finished this car should qualify for both our 50's sports car and our Carrera Panamericana classes. The body is 3D printed in Elegoo ABS like resin from a file I purchased online. The chassis was designed and printed by me in PLA+ on my FDM printer. The body weighs 10.5 grams and the chassis adds another 5. The D24 has very little front overhang, making designing the chassis and the location of the various front end components a challenge. I will add the body posts and source the images for making the decals next. Cheers Steve  

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • R32 @ Spa Lyons FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, February 25, 2023 @ Spa Lyons Classes: 1950's & 1960's Endurance Sportscars (50SP & 60SP) Classic LeMans (CLM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Three marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order 1950's & 1960's Endurance Sportscars: Classic LeMans: 3.0L LeMans: 1970's Grand Prix: [foogallery id="37419"]  

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: R32

    • 6
    • 6
    • 1 month ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • Riverhampton Photo Collage for Thursday April 6 2023 Seven out of Eight participants made it out to this event due to the Passover (Pesach) holidays.   Classes: 1. Vintage Mini’s - 8.80 second bracket 2. 1950's GP 3. 1960's GP 1.5L 4. Trans AM 5. Revoslot GT (stock)   Format: ● 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. ● Voltage set @ 10.5v ● Three marshals for every heat. ● Race to line result will determine finishing order. ● Vintage Mini’s 8.8 second bracket; all other classes no bracket.     1) Vintage Mini's The host took the checkered flag.  Congrats to Gary for the fastest lap with an 8.804 in the blue lane, he won the extra point and placed second.   2) 1950's GP Winner took the flag with 71 laps, second had 70 laps and third and fourth both finished with 69 laps and a 7.2 second variance on extension.   3) 1960's GP Winner took the flag with 71 laps, second and third both finished with 69 laps and a 5 second variance on extension. 4) Trans AM First and second both finished with 71 laps (Kudos to Alan for his second place finished!), third and fourth both finished with 70 laps.   5) Revoslot GT (Stock) No photos were taken of the Revoslot cars, only four racers participated.  First and second both finished with 78 laps and only a 3.5 variance on extension. 1) Marcos LM600 GT2 - 78 laps 2) Porsche 911 GT1 - 78 laps 3) Mercedes Benz CLK GTR - 75 laps 4) Dodge Viper GTS - 74 laps   Thanks to all participants that made this another fun evening of racing!    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: T32

    • 4
    • 6
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Another Indycar After looking at all the wonderful builds for the Indycar class, I felt inspired and decided to join in. I used the reliable KRZ aluminum chassis, DArt Watson Roadster kit, RS Slot wheels, and of course DArt urethane tires. The car is the Bryant Heating and Cooling Special driven by Len Sutton.  Something a little different since we already have AJ and Parnelli liveried cars.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 6
    • 9 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Two Lane Blacktop-inspired ’55 Chevy Hey guys, I haven't raced with the group for a while. Having been invited back into the fold there were a few classes that I need to build cars for. One of which is Hot Rods. During the pandemic I ended up ordering a few movies to pass the time - one of which was Two Lane Blacktop. I had never seen it before, and it's really worth a watch. It's French New Wave meets hot rods in the best possible way. The hero car of the film is a '55 Chevy driven by "The Driver" (musician James Taylor), and worked on by "The Mechanic" (Beach Boys drummer Dennis Wilson). They travel from town to town with The Girl (Laurie Bird) engaging in street races and trying to hustle a few bucks along the way. Eventually the meet up with "G.T.O" (Warren Oates - I'll let you guess what he drives) who challenges them to a race to Washington D. C. - the winner taking the loser's car. I'm a big fan of movie cars, so after seeing this movie I set out to find myself a '55 Chevy body. I was lucky to find a Monogram Snap-Tite kit in 1/32 scale on ePay. Hot Rod rules call for the BWA FF050 slim can in an inline configuration with skinny wheels. Being a fan of the Slot.it HRS2 chassis I was able to source an FF050 motor pod on Shapeways. With all the bits and pieces in hand, it was time to hit the spray booth aka the level 3 stairwell vestibule in my condo's parking structure. Here's what I ended up with: The hood scoop is fabricated out of Evergreen sheet styrene. Driver is a vac-formed interior from Slot Car Corner. I went with the slammed stance since that's what it takes to get the CG down low. I opted for the side pipes because - why not? Anyhow, we'll see how well it runs at the next Hot Rod race. See you guys then! - DrV

      Started by: AvatarDrVanski in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 6
    • 3 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • July 23, 2016 – The Rock Sportscars (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Kevin - 84 Laps (10.552 ext.) 2. Art - 83 (10.953) 3. Frank - 79 (9.620) 4. Jim M. - 79 (11.864) 5. Tony - 74 (4.491) 6. Dave - 73 (16.227) Trans Am (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Trans Am Results 1. Art - 89 Laps (14.164 ext.) 2. Kevin - 89 (14.486) 3. Jim M. - 86 (12.009) 4. Frank - 85 (14.246) 5. Dave - 81 (13.334) 6. Tony - 80 (10.228) Classic LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Classic LeMans Results 1. Kevin - 92 Laps (14.512 ext.) 2. Art - 91 (6.863) 3. Frank - 87 (17.631) 4. Tony - 85 (15.669) 5. Dave - 84 (12.693) 6. Jim M. - 81 (13.694) Group C/IMSA (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group C/IMSA Results 1. Art - 99 Laps (5.963 ext.) 2. Kevin - 98 (9.432) 3. Jim M. - 94 (12.021) 4. Frank - 94 (17.127) 5. Dave - 88 (18.856) 6. Tony - 87 (14.237) Exciting battles throughout the field in all of the classes! Thank you to Kevin for hosting and to Jim for his help with many of the photos and to those who were able to make it to The Rock to race. Until next time - Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 5
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Chaparral 2A Not really scratch built but I will ask for forgiveness later :unsure: The Strombecker body I have had for years and always meant to paint plus I had a spare strombecker brass chassis.  I opted to use a 1/32 set up which has worked out well.  Motor is a Plafit Fox 11 (25k). Gears are slot-it. Wheels and inserts are BWA - though they are not quite right but they were in my spare box.  Tires are DArts.  Windscreen is cracked but a Future treatment has improved it while I look for another one (I know, good luck). Anyway, thought I would share.

      Started by: DBDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ringwood XVII Scratch32 will kick off the 2017 Winter Scratch32 racing schedule with Ringwood XVII. Scratch32 Rules will apply. Visit the Rules page to download the current Scratch32 Rules. To download your copy of the Scratch32 2017 Winter racing calendar visit the Calendar page.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 3
    • 5
    • 1 month ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Rolexing at The Rock! (As originally written and posted by KK) It’s been a long offseason for the 1:1 racing cars but this weekend things got rolling again as the long anticipated 2017 IMSA WeatherTech SportsCar Championship kicked off with the Rolex 24 Hrs at Daytona. This year saw the introduction of the exciting new DPi class in a race hampered by weather. As a tribute to years gone by, we decided to hold a historic Rolex Special race of our own for the 1/32 scale models we race here at The RockenheimRing in Barrie. Our day was also hampered slightly by weather but that didn’t stop ten of the finest and most dedicated racers around from attending todays event by way of snow covered roads. We had a few last minute drop-outs but still a near record crowd was in attendance for an R32 race of late. Barrie Police showed up early on to control the overflow of parking and thankfully that was the last we saw of them today. No doubt they will be back. I think my neighbours may have them on Speed Dial. Could be from the incident involving their house being bombarded with eggs, but that’s another story. The police showed up here saying that all the guest that were leaving my “live band deck party” threw eggs at the house across the street, I excused myself for a moment, checked the fridge and came back to the door to report to the officer, it couldn’t have been my guests, we have No Eggs! Now back to the racing coverage. The biggest stories out of the pit garage were, FORD winning the GTLM class at Daytona today but were given a new acronym up here in Canada. That along with James Dean dieing for a second time were the the two big stories out of the garage along with Switchgate, MV back in action and some new racers climbing the podium at The Rock for the first time. These stories and more later.   50’s 60’s Sportscars ( 3 heats x 180 seconds = 9 minutes) The home team broke away from the pack slightly in this one while the competition got familiar with the track layout. Some very close racing in this one, notably 3rd through 8th place separated by just two laps. JM took the 2nd place spot with a real nice outing for his King Cobra and our good friend Devo took the third step with a big block chevy loaner from the home team with SR, FC, MV, DO and MA hot on his heals. The well rounded field of entries circled the track while the Classic LeMans cars were prepared in the background. JCB-James Dean’s Porsche 550 was seen in the garage for most of the race due to a broken guide flag holder. People around the scene were noted as saying “That’s the second time James Dean died in that car”   Classic LeMans Cars 1965-1970 ( 3 heats x 180 seconds = 9 minutes) This was a close finish with the two top spots separated by under a second. Some of the the top drivers on the circuit were absent due to the weather and this along with the rain kept the crowds from filling the grandstand. Those that showed up were treated to a thrilling race. The Home Team edged out JCB by less than a second and JCB took his first steps up the podium at the Ring. A small detour through the rhubarb thwarted his otherwise relentless pace and the older 250LM squeaked by to take the narrow victory. Whispers of “Switchgate” were heard by other racers in the paddock as JCB was certain that someone threw his lane direction switch in hopes his tires and pace would be cooled. Talk about icing a kicker! All of the banter coming out of the garage about MV’s FORD GT 40 crash and clearing the wall quickly diffused all the talk about Switchgate and got the heat off of yours truly. The roars of laughter could be heard far and wide as the new acronym for FORD was created – FOUND ON RUG DEAD! Ford may have had a great day at Daytona today but they were the butt of the funniest jokes here today. Devo wound up on the third step of the podium again with a loaner Porsche from the home team. SR, FC, MV, DO, MA. JM and TR all had strong outings in this one.     Group C/IMSA ( 3 heats x 180 seconds = 9 minutes) The third race of the day was the mighty Group C cars. These beautiful machines are favorites of many and this race provided the closest finish of the day. JCB took his first victory at The Rock and by the narrowest of margins driving his appropriately named BOSS Porsche to victory. Less than two tenths of a second separated the top two racers and the top 8 places were separated by only two laps. SR had the race in hand until the third heat where a cut tire saw him spin out repeatedly. He managed to limp his car to a third place finish and his first podium finish at the Rock. You could have thrown a blanket over third through seventh with the rest of the pack nipping at their heels. See the photos below, it was that close!   The Rolex Special (Any Commercially available Group C, Daytona Prototype, Lola T600, Porsche Kremer CK5 with 25k S-Can motor) ( 3 heats x 240 seconds = 12 minutes) These beautiful machines filled the pit lane as all participants were allowed to race as many as three cars in this race. The intensity of running these faster cars got to some as these high RpM machines generate incredible speeds on the long straights of The Ring. MA had a short circuiting brand new motor in his primary car and was forced to run his beautiful back-up Crown Royal DP car just minutes before the race. Controllers were hooked up incorrectly and all kinds spinouts made this a race of attrition. In the end it was home track advantage that showed through as the home team cruised to victory. We’re not sure yet if any track lap records were broken but they were certainly approached by the Rothmans Porsche 962 and Lola T600. JM took a familiar second step on the podium and TR after a great run took the third step, his first at The Ring. Second through fifth were separated by only two laps. Thanks to all who attended and participated today. This was truly a wonderful race event and it was good to see some former racers and friends out on a not so wonderful day, weather wise. We had few laughs, a few pops and rubbed a few fenders and I still have plenty of eggs in my fridge. Good times! Hope to see you all again soon. Cheers KK

      Started by: JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 5
    • 5
    • 1 month ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1969 CANAM Piper Ferrari 612 (No. 43) This period fantasy livery uses a DArt body kit and will have a scratch built chassis underneath mounted using one screw/body post behind the front axle and two clips for wire uprights just behind the molded tailpipe shell detail. Who better a pilot to place in this unreliable rocket than the other Polish Prince (not Marek) - Tony Adamowicz! After applying a dark green base coat and fixing the mounting post/clips we were ready for the next step - decals. 29 of the 34 decals used were printed using my standard inkjet printer and coated with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (as I do with all of the decals I make). Regarding the five store bought decals used – three were rectangular Monogram white blank number plates with a black pinstripe border and two were Pattos Ferrari badge decals – in hindsight I was disappointed with both the opacity and misaligned pin stripe on the white blank Monogram number plates (but it gives the model character) and should have just printed my own along with the Pattos Ferrari badges since I am really not a fan of their low resolution. Nevertheless the project turned out just fine. The decals will be left to dry for a few days and after some cleaning up the body will be ready for two clear coats (yet to be determined), then some detail painting and a dark wash. I haven’t decided if I want to paint or decal the spoiler orange yet… no rush… ...stay tuned!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 5
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford V8 Special – #32 – Ireneu Correa – 1935 Rio Grand Prix Many consider Ireneu Correa as the 'grandfather' of Brazilian motor racing since he was the first Brazilian to win an international race - the 1934 Rio Grand Prix - which was raced on the lengthy Gavea course. A little history on the Rio Grand Prix can be found here. South American racers who competed in early motor sport events throughout the Americas favoured and raced North American models right up to the outbreak of the second world war and this was particularly true for Correa until his death in 1935. These models were not elegant - they were in fact very hard to look at - but in the 1930's they achieved successes in part because their competition was focused on motor sporting events back on the European continent. But by the mid to late 30's European entries would begin to dominate major south American events such as the Rio Grand Prix. Correa trained in the United States as a mechanic in order to modify and prepare his own race cars. The entry which he prepared for his return as Champion of the Rio Grand Prix in 1935 was yet another Ford - a V8 Special - entered as #32. Unfortunately on the first lap while chasing the race leader Correa would skid out of control and hit a tree launching his car into the canal - an accident that he would not survive. Believe it or not his car would return to race again but became known as 'the cursed car' after killing another pilot. And so with that historical perspective in mind I decided to kitbash a Lindberg Ford kit into something unusual to compete against a deluge of European models for a new 'pre-war' class - an early to mid '30's Ford V8 Special, as prepared and raced by Correa in the 1935 Rio Grand Prix. I'm not a rivet counter or a scale fanatic nor do I believe that a slot car must be as detailed as a static model so I kept an open mind when planning the chassis, but first I would have to bash a body. My priority was for this car to look right when circling the track. That being said I still wanted the model to be as close to scale and as detailed as possible. It was also imperative that the guide be hidden as much as possible and not be visible at all when viewed from above. I shortened, lowered and narrowed the back of the kit body and then fabricated the rear end using styrene sheet and tubing to make the extra fuel tank and crown gear cover (to which the spare tire would be fixed) and wrapped it with a thin piece of L shaped styrene stock. The interior floor was raised in the centre to accommodate the FF050 motor and two DArt racing seats were modified to fit side by side. At the front I added a few styrene plates to cover the gaps left underneath the motor covers along with a few body flaps where the windscreen used to be. I used as much of the frame that came with the kit as I could - and left the fender seam and the trim underneath the front grill. The rear of the frame together with the bottom of the fuel tank (I think that is what it is) was cut off and added underneath the new rear end. The rest of the kit would be tossed except for the steering wheel, shifter, brake and dashboard.  A complete DArt 'Nouvolari' driver figure would lose its head in favour of another DArt replacement. and that would come later. When I was finished I was left with two pieces - the complete body, floor and rear end and the separate frame which could be glued to the body after paint. I turned 5 wheels to 16.5 x 5.3mm which would accommodate a set of DA0210 urethane tires and DArt spoked inserts. I know these inserts have too many spokes but I liked their overall look and how they extended well beyond the wheel flange. I also cut off the ears leaving just a small round cap at the centre instead of the original two eared knock off. In order to ensure that the installation of each insert (after paint) would go without a hitch I drilled out material from the backside in the centre of each insert to accommodate any small extension of the axle and the washer for independent fronts. The overall diameter of these wheels with tires mounted and trued was 23mm. With dimensions of the body and wheels now in hand it was time to plan the chassis. I fabricated a small motor bracket for the BWMS050 motor and would use two sizes of piano wire and brass tubing to join everything together. I went with very small Slot.It bushings at the rear in order to give me flexibility in mounting the rear of the body. Due to the ride height of the chassis and with several parts needing to be attached at different levels this chassis took a little more planning to make sure it would turn out right - measure twice, cut once. The motor would sit 3mm below the chassis and the guide sleeve 5mm below. The chassis didn't need to be too strong since it was for a low power motor and a lightweight body - and was never travelling to a proxy race. I decided to mount the body using some styrene tube into which the chassis would 'snap' at the rear and a #226 styrene post up front into which the 'V' shaped wire brace would be secured with a single screw. Material was removed from these three contact points until the ride height was where I wanted it and there was enough body float. Urethane DArt washers would allow sufficient body float and prevent the screw from ever backing out of the brass insert. My own research didn't turn up much to assist with this project so I needed to improvise and make educated guesses where appropriate. With a Brazilian owner/pilot it was more than likely that this model would have raced with a pale yellow body on top of a green frame/chassis with black numbers. I sprayed the wheels a lighter shade of green and weathered them with several washes of dirt. The body was sprayed yellow and then the paint was sanded using 1200 wet paper to give the finish a dull, worn and weathered look. Since I used grey primer underneath the colour changes slightly depending on how much paint was removed. Everything else was hand painted. Number decals were printed on my inkjet printer and sealed using Crystal Clear - and then applied. Nothing was used to seal or coat the decals after they were applied but I still might apply some Micro Set decal sealer by hand... I made a small cover from large styrene tubing which I painted flat black and glued to the front of the guide to hide the clips when viewed from the front. Other details included the textured belt and buckle and a spare with a small aluminium rod that was bent and fixed to the centre of the hub which secured the wheel on the real car. I planned to add a second tire underneath the spare but have not done so (yet).  The chassis components for this model: BWMS050 w10t brass pinion x 28t Slot.It crown (for now - gearing will be changed though); DArt 16.5mm x 5.3mm wheels with DArt inserts; DArt DA0210 urethane tires; Slot.It rear bushings and PM axles; Scalextric Round Guide with Slot.It braid and generic silicone lead wire; The basic specs (at present): 60.3g overall weight; Track: front = 53mm / rear=52mm (excluding inserts); Wheelbase: 80mm (83mm from guide); Chassis Clearance: 8mm / Min. Clearance: 5mm (at motor/bracket); The driver still needs a pair of goggles and a co-pilot is in the works too but there is no rush now that the model is ready for action. For more pictures of this eyesore visit our model gallery here.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Larry's Opel GT Hello fellow racers. Larry has been having some ipad troubles posting pics to start his Opel GT build thread. I offered to get the ball rolling for his first build. He built it for, and raced it at the last Targa Florio. The following are quotes from Larry. So to start I researched as many angles of the car as I could. I sanded down the fender well lip so the fender was flatter so my flare would sit flatter at the back to the body when glued. I stuck painters tape to the fenders and traced where the door jam was, where the front bumper came around the side and the outline of the fender itself. Next I glued three pieces of styrene together for each fender. Stuck the tape to the blank and cut it out. Didn’t cut out the wheel opening yet to keep it stable. Sanding and body putty, lastly I cut out the wheel opening to fit the wheels. And then this happened! Way to go Larry! (Those were Ken's words) Please direct your questions and positive comments to Larry for his fine build. :good: Thank you.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • 2019 Mosport Vintage race June 14-16 If anyone is interested this weekend is the annual vintage race at Mosport. https://canadiantiremotorsportpark.com/pages/canadian-historic-grand-prix Featured marque is Volvo. Doesn't look like as big an event as in recent years but still worth checking out if you've never been. If I can track down an entry list I will post it.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 3
    • 5
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • D'Art Lotus 30 My enthusiasm to build this kit was off the charts. The real Lotus 30 was a terrible car with respect to handling. This is an opportunity to hopefully make it better on a much smaller scale. The real car had chassis flex issues. This chassis does not have those same problems. I had to shorten the top of the front bearing supports because the body sits very low. You can see the 180 grit sanding marks on the inside of the chassis so the epoxy will adhere to the aluminum and motor a bit better. The chassis started out as an inline S-can. That was a huge mistake on such a low car. I should have planned it out better. I hope I never make that mistake again. I had to make a big hole in the body to fit the motor. The colour is Tamiya "Candy Lime Green". Upon assembling the body to the chassis I realized this was indeed a huge mistake. My lack of experience is getting the better of me. Time to take it apart and try something else. I was thinking that I may have already ruined the body. :negative:

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 70 TA Camaro colour change I have a blue Z28 Camaro for stock TA class. There are several of the exact same colour and number. It was time to create Ken's red zed. It took 2-coats of paint over 2-days to cover the dark blue. I could not avoid orange-peel on the roof. More paint would have created runs and the rest of the car was too nice to ruin. I'll try buffing the roof.

      Started by: KenKen in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Shelby GT-350 I started this car before I had proper direction. A newbie mistake if you will. I did not realize when I chose the "Candy Lime Green" colour that S32 Sportscar class stops at 1965. After a little bit of digging. I found a 1966 Shelby GT-350 that was entered in the 1967 Targa Florio (#210). A scarce American Mustang among a field of mostly European cars. It didn't make the race due to an accident during practice. It became a one-of-a-kind GT-350 BBQ. There are very few pictures of this car simply because it didn't race. This Shelby was all white. After taking 3-days to remove some really nice paint. The "Candy Lime Green" Shelby became all white. The chassis. I put a little more effort into manipulating the rear of the chassis so it tucks under the rear valance. Measure twice, cut once. The Shelby fits in the GT+2.0 class and requires a Scalex 18k motor. I went with 9x28 gears with an offset crown to keep the CG as low as possible. You can still see hints of green under the body. Hard to get it all out. The chassis tucks nicely under rear valance. It's a tight fit. The car came with black wheels. Inserts are D'Art 5-spokes. The car sits fairly low. The body could have gone even lower. But it's my humble opinion that it would not improve the look even though there might be a slight handling improvement to lowering it further. It's very difficult see the chassis under the body unless you lay your eye on the track. Mission accomplished in my books. The car has body-float.The tires don't rub on the fenders even at the extreme flex of the body-float. But they sure can't get any closer than they already are. It should be ready for the next Targa Florio. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 65 Pontiac GTO A friend (Another Michael) in Group-25 model club gave me this Monogram static kit and said "Make it go!". I finally decided to take his advice. It might make an excellent "Classic Stock Car". The picture on the front makes the car look tall and skinny. The decals on the side of the car look terrible. Two things I plan to avoid with this build. This is what comes in the box. After water sanding the body with 2000-grit paper. It's ready for paint. Tamiya orange covers the red fairly well without primer. I ditched the decals and threw the tall and skinny idea out the window. The rest of the field of Classic Stock Cars were the inspiration for the final body-height of this GTO. There is much yet to be completed like blacking out the front grills. Painting the tail lights red. The body requires Molotow chrome pen detailing. The driver is on order. He's out getting a hamburger, fries, and a Coke. One suggestion for a sponser is "Kickapoo Joy Juice". You would need to have lived through the mid 60's and already be self-aware to remember this old soft-drink (soda pop). Perfect for a vintage 1965 car.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 65 AC Cobra I bought a Ninco AC Cobra missing some parts a long while back. Steve and Art were with me at Carefree Hobbies when Nick (store owner) quoted $20. My brothers in slot cars were a bit dissapointed that they didn't see the car first. I was lucky that day. Thanks Nick! The body used to look like this. The car I would like to make is a Targa Florio livery from 1966. It will also serve as a Sportscar SP+. This idea started long before last July when I originally painted the body. Too many plans... Too many cars... The sun really makes the metallic pop. This Cobra will get a Scalex FF 050 slim line motor with an offset crown - 9 x 27. Stock, legal motor for this class.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1951 Tudor I thought I might as welladd my Tudor as well. The colour is a proxy for the Ford colour plalette of the era albeit a few shades lighter.  The car  weighs in at 82 grams, 10/30 gearing, motor is a Scaly S can.  The car runs @ 7.5 secs on my track (which is a bit longer but less technical than The Ring).  My original Tudor runs an 8 sec with  BWA motor.  Pic to follow.

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      DBDB

    • 1931 Ford Pickup Lindberg kit which I have had for a while.   Parts are from the usual sources, RSSlot wheels, Darts inserts, BWA 050 motor, scratch chassis.  Runs well, quite smooth.  Added a oak strip bed for effect.  Kind of experimented on the paint, dark red first coat, sanded then red on top.  I was look for an aged look but not sure it came off :unsure: .  

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Chassis pics A few customer's chassis pics. A few more. This strange looking chassis was made for a forum administrator on a site in the UK. It fits something called a Morris J-van. Very odd vehicle. But who am I to judge another man's passion?

      Started by: KenKen in: How To Order

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • Updates Again… Gents, This weekend several upgrades were made to many of our plug ins and our wordpress server software - now up to v5.8... Among other things you will see that most profile pictures (avatars) for our users have disappeared. If you use a Gravatar image then this does not affect you. If your image has disappeared and you don't want to use Gravatar for cross platform image display then please re-submit your image next time you log in... images which did not meet the minimum avatar criteria may not display either, but you will be reminded of this when you upload an image... Also, smilies are gone and there are no plans to replace or add them right now... My apologies for the inconvenience.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

    • 3
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1936 Auto Union Type C – #4 Bernd Rosemeyer This is a PGP+ class eligible model for our Pre War Coppa D'oro series. The main restrictions for this class (apart from the mandated motor) are a maximum track of 50.8mm (excluding inserts which may extend beyond) and maximum tire diameter of 23mm. Of course all tires must be DArt club series urethanes and wheels cannot exceed 16.5mm in diameter nor be wider than 5.5mm... so armed with that info we can begin building something eligible...The basis for this build was the DArt Auto Union C Type body kit with a few modifications and upgrades. As always I begin with the wheels which I modified by turning down a set of 4 DArt DA16x9XL alloy wheels. I carefully mounted 4 DA0210 club series tires using clear Gorilla Glue after scuffing the outer rim surface and let them dry overnight before truing with my Hudy. Using the truer I also narrowed the front tires using a sharp Xacto knife. After sorting the overall tire diameters I gathered some small bushings and the rest of the parts needed including the low power BWMS050 motor with a 1.5mm 10T pinion. Initially I also opted for an aftermarket 23T crown gear but then went with the orange 25T gear instead after initial testing. I opted for a simple torsion chassis using a combination of piano wire and brass. The front end would use stub axles made from piano wire with DuBro No2 steel washers soldered on one end. Because the washers were too large in diameter they needed to be ground down to fit within my front axle braces. I also fabricated the motor mount and guide sleeve. After sanding all of the parts I soldered the rear end together. Then I made the front section. The front and rear sections are only held together with piano wire tabs that slide inside a small brass tube. By gently pulling them apart (and out of the tube) you can separate the front and rear halves of the chassis which allows for convenient cleaning and maintenance. The wire tension is enough to hold it in place. Before final re-assembly I made sure to clean any flux residue before applying a blackening treatment to all of the chassis parts using a disposable dollar store brush. Make sure you are happy with the chassis - because after you apply the blackening chemical treatment to the steel you won't be able to solder anything to it. While the steel does turn black the brass is more stubborn and will only give you an antique look at best - but I still prefer this to painting anyday - and I prefer to take away the shine of brass (or steel) especially on exposed parts that don't reflect the real thing. I painted the wire wheel inserts that came with the kit and after final assembly I glued them in place using white glue. The assembled chassis weighs in at 45.7g.. I wanted to use as much of a complete pilot and interior so I modified the original body by opening up the cockpit. I also extended the cockpit slightly by removing material up to the recess for the original windscreen (which I would replace with a more detailed windscreen from the DArt Type D body kit).The painted and washed body shell (without interior and exterior detail) now weighs 9.6g. Decals which I printed on clear Testor's decal sheeting were applied. I also used Micro Mark decals for the front grill detail. Then I made firewalls which could be glued in place using thin styrene sheeting. Other upgraded parts included a pilot figure, head, steering wheel, shifter and interior side panels from the DArt D Type body kit, plus DArt button radiator cap and DArt fuel cap. After painting the body silver I added a black wash using Tamiya flat black acrylic paint diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner to bring out more detail where I wanted it. If using the acrylic thinner (which is alcohol based) only apply carefully where you want it and let it pool and dry to give the desired effect. Quickly wick away any wash that creeps where you don't want it since the longer it remains the harder it will be to clean away. Once it is dry it is impossible to remove easily - you'll need to polish it out then. I would do the interior first. I would use clear 5 minute epoxy to fix everything in place, starting with the firewalls. Then came the seat back (minus head rest) and dashboard. While that dried I removed the lower portion of the pilot's legs and sanded away the underside of his thighs to give me as much clearance underneath as possible. Luckily I did not need to shrink his torso. Once satisfied with the fit (and clearance) of the torso/legs I glued the pilot arms to the torso and placed the steering wheel in his hands and let dry. [I trimmed the steering wheel shaft since I never fix the steering wheel to the dashboard - I always leave it in the pilot's hands - which I find much easier to work with.] Then I glued the pilot's body to the seat and let that dry. Then the side panels were fixed in place and finally the shifter was added. The interior was done. I could add a styrene piece underneath his legs to finish the interior but I'll leave that alone for now. [Turns out the blackened chassis works nicely underneath so I decided to not bother adding a floor.] Exterior details were then added. The windscreen was second last - after hand drilling a pair of holes to fix it in place. Finally a solid aluminium wire was added to the rear of the body through another small hole hand drilled. The completed body now weighs 12.9g. Not bad!Add two screws and four urethane washers (2 for some body float and 2 underneath the head of each screw (to prevent the screws from backing out) and our completed model weighs in at 59 g.The original crown gear performed just fine when the chassis alone was tested (before the body was completed) but as fate would have it would fail on the first lap in its debut... but replaced and tested the model is very quick and this chassis shows lots of promise for 2022.Happy to answer any questions. If you would like to upgrade any parts on your C Type (like I did) drop me a line... Cheers! [foogallery id="20971"]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots

    • Auto Union Type D – Dart Kit For this build, I have used the recently released Dart kit of the Auto Union Type D.  As usual, the quality of the kit is second to none and it comes with two driver busts and seat options, large wired inserts and a long styrene tube with two brass push in threaded inserts to be installed as body posts where needed. I decided to mate the body with an aluminium chassis (KRZ Design) that I made specifically for this model.  The BWA 14k ff motor is glued onto the chassis with 5 minute epoxy.  I decided to use wired wheels that were purchased from Pendle. You will note that there is the appearance of significant tire degradation to the front wheels on this model-it wasn't due to the photo taken after a race.  I'll be replacing these rubber tires that came with the wheels with Dart urethane that will be trued to the same size. The model as shown in the photos includes the smaller half bust that came with the kit but it is evident that this option requires a thick seat cushion otherwise the driver can barely see over the hood.  I'll be replacing the half bust with a modified full body to achieve the most realistic result. The model runs very well, and is competitive, with my Auto Union Type C and Mercedes Benz W125.  Based on early test results, this type D outpaces the other two. A new entry for the next Coppa D PGP+ race with Tazio Nuvolari behind the wheel to join Bernd Rosemeyer in the type C and Rudolf Caracciola in the W125. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • Ferrari 246 SP Dino The sharknose Grand Prix car evolved in the early 60's at the same time as the sportscar. Racing in 1961 and 1962 the Ferrari 246 SP achieved some success. Here is Rodriquez in the Targa. I opted to fashion his french team mate. I started with the DArt body kit. I planned to mate this kit to an ASS (A Simple Sled) chassis. So far so good...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • Honda RA 271 I have always liked the Honda F1 cars and own the excellent DArt Honda RA 273.  I purchased a "Munter" John Warren Honda RA271 kit over a year ago. The inserts provided were too large to fit the RS Slot 15 x 7 wheels so DArt inserts were used instead along with DArt tires, mirrors, and the red Sun off a DArt decal sheet The resin exhausts looked too fragile so I bent some copper wire and reproduced the exhaust system. The driver figure has seat belts molded in however I believe they were not used in the real world of 1964.  Since I was not aiming for total accuracy, I decided to use it along with a car # that was not used during the season. So here it is.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 5
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 LXXI - FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 25, 2023 @ The Ring Classes: 1950's Endurance Sportscar (50SP) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) Boulevard Cruisers (BC) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3 Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order 1950's Endurance Sportscar (50SP): #47 - 70 Laps (14.073 ext.) #24 - 70 (17.805) #7 - 68 (9.959) #38 - 67 (7.207) #410 - 66 (14.537) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP): #152 - 71 Laps (12.530 ext.) #26 - 69 (2.746) #27 - 68 (5.190) #27 - 67 (10.324) #54 - 66 (9.828) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP): #27 - 75 Laps (10.119 ext) #93 - 71 (5.967) #88 - 71 (12.956) #97 - 69 (9.455) #98 - 69 (14.250) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+): #128 - 80 Laps (3.809 ext) #47 - 79 (11.297) #66 - 79 (13.107) #4 - 70 (10.401) #65 - 68 (13.949) Boulevard Cruisers (BC): 74 Laps (11.708 ext.) 72 (8.421) 62 (16.407) [foogallery id="38350"] Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 5
    • 1 month ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • 2023 R32 Summer Break Gents, With the spectacular weather comes cottaging, family vacations, BBQs, sailing and many other outdoor weekend commitments so R32 will take a well deserved summer break until September. The fall schedule for both R32 and S32 is now online so check for classes and dates. Hopefully this will give everyone ample opportunity to get any unfinished projects completed. Please note that the R32 race at MVL originally planned for this Saturday is unfortunately cancelled due to insufficient registration (3). My sincerest apologies to GI and KensRedZed but at least everyone still has a chance to make alternate plans. Enjoy the break and I'll hopefully see everyone in September!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 5
    • 11 months ago

      KenKen

    • Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 Test Car I had a white NSR Porsche 908/3 body and looked for a Targa Florio livery but it looked like they have all been done by our talented members. I came across a Test Car painted red but the images I could find were mostly black and white with the odd colour photo. My scratch built chassis used a Slot It motor pod and I have to thank Ken for drilling the 4 holes through the brass stock to accept the pod.  You can't beat a Drill Press!  

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 5
    • 8 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 64 Impala SS The green colour of this Impala is amazing. A white vinyl roof really sets it off. Drew did a stunning job with the paint. The hood was epoxied in place. Then the extra posts for the static chassis were trimmed off.  The rad support was also removed. The chassis was assembled to set the height of the body posts. The post lengths are 31mm front, and 30mm rear. The numbers on the chassis are the tire diameters. The body will sit about 1mm higher with the stainless and urethane washers added. This is the same body height as the Olds 442. The wheel well shape makes it look very different. A thicker washer can be added to the rear body posts to create a little more rake. More to follow. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 5 months ago

      KenKen

    • 61 Ranchero Hot Rod Though my 'handle' here is Porsche911, I LOVED the 'American Muscle' that ruled the roads in the 60's and 70's, Stangs, Camaro's, Cuda's and such, and as we have a 'Hot Rod' class, I wanted something...as John Cleese would say, "And now for something completely different". :>) I thought a departure, different than most of the others, and had an 'AMT Scale Stars' 61 Ranchero tucked away, so this is it. Because I elected to go with supplied full interior, it's likely nowhere near slammed low enough, nor light enough to be too fast but I think it looks Baaaad, if you're into that type of thing. Going forward, should I acquire another 1, I'd use a flat/card interior, and also rip out the entire bed and cover with a tonneau top. I did have to cut a wee bit to accommodate crown gear, hence the 'beverages' in the back, plus a guy could thirsty driving this. :>) Added some 'smoke' to tailpipes, and the 'Skull' to grill, might not be everyone's cuppa but after test fit, I loved it. Alas, my photo skills/lighting aren't the greatest so you may not be able to see the small decal details(all homemade). Lovely KRZ chassis fitted, slimcan 'Vanski' motor, 10X23, RS Slot wheels, D'Art inserts, driver by Pioneer and lady friend vintage Revell. Vinnies Hot Rods of Fresno has given the 'Lil Devil' a shakedown, and it's about 3/4 of a second off where it would be somewhat competitive, but it's fun, who knew I could be whimsical...LOL Hope you enjoy, Cheers!  

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 months ago

      KenKen

    • January 6, 2016 – Molto VeLoce Circuit NASCAR (3 min. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) 1. Art - 96 Laps (7.817 ext.) 2. Drew - 96 (12.599) 3. John B. - 95 (9.069) (fastest lap) 4. Jim M. - 95 (10.905) 5. Mike V. - 93 (13.606) 6. Jim O. - 91 (15.049) 7. Frank C. - 91 (18.216) 8. MiA - 84 (22.833) 1950's Grand Prix (3 min. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) 1. John B. - 96 Laps (13.489 ext.) 2. Art - 96 (16.788) (fastest lap) 3. Jim M. - 95 (20.664) 4. Drew - 93 (15.621) 5. Jim O. - 90 (12.489) 6. Mike V. - 89 (10.033) 7. Frank C. - 89 (14.655) 8. MiA - 77 (12.521) Group 5 (3 min. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) 1. Art - 112 Laps (13.261 ext.) (fastest lap) 2. John B. - 109 (13.765) 3. Drew - 106 (15.218) 4. Frank C. - 104 (13.420) 5. Jim O. - 102 (18.456) 6. Jim M. - 101 (13.858) 7. Mike V. - 100 (15.424) 8. MiA - 95 (9.592) Hot & Rat Rod (3 min. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) 1. Mike V. - 90 Laps (13.859 ext.) (fastest lap) 2. Art - 90 (19.168) 3. Drew - 88 (27.598) 4. Jim O. - 87 (19.323) 5. Jim M. - 85 (13.956) Cheers! Art :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • February 10, 2016 – The Ring NASCAR (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) NASCAR Results 1. DwM - 104 Laps (9.564 ext.) 2. Art - 102 (4.375) 3. JoB - 102 (7.566) 4. JMs - 102 (11.900) 5. BiG - 101 (12.618) 6. MiA - 96 (14.718) 7. JmO - 95 (9.016) 1950's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 50GP Results 1. Art - 78 Laps (10.638 ext.) 2. JoB - 76 (15.079) 3. DwM - 75 (13.965) 4. JMs - 73 (10.309) 5. JmO - 73 (12.796) 6. MiA - 69 (12.792) 7. BiG - DNF Classic LeMans (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) CLM Results 1. Art - 81 Laps (5.307 ext.) 2. DwM - 81 (5.387) 3. JoB - 81 (7.231) 4. BiG - 81 (7.648) 5. JMs - 79 (7.309) 6. JmO - 78 (16.012) 7. MiA - 75 (6.617) Group 5 (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) G5 Results 1. Art - 91 Laps (11.920 ext.) 2. JoB - 86 (4.558) 3. DwM - 86 (9.181) 4. BiG - 83 (11.019) 5. JmO - 81 (10.070) 6. JMs - 80 (12.030) 7. MiA - 78 (6.393) Cheers to everyone who could make it out to race! Some great and close racing and boy did the track get fast by the end of the evening! BTW, the new Group 5 VW was there to pace the field!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • Removing Decals or Tampo Print – Super Clean Sometimes you just want to remove the livery from a nicely painted body before priming. If you do not, then you compromise the quality and adhesion of the new paint, not to mention that you may see the raised edges of the prior tampo afterwards. To do this you can use 'Super Clean' - Tough Task Cleaner-Degreaser typically found in a 3.78L purple container: You can source Super Clean from Canadian Tire, among other retailers. To get your best bang for the buck you can re-use the same fluid on multiple bodies/parts - I like the dollar store clear plastic containers which come in various sizes with a snap on rubber gasket lid - like the 8"l x 5"w x 3"h (I'm guessing there) Betty Crocker storage containers (with the red lid). Let the pieces sit and soak for days (or even a week if necessary). If anything remains remove it with gentle rubbing (or a non-abrasive brush). Rinse in clean water and dry. You've now removed traces of the old livery and can either prime/re-paint or apply new decals...  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

    • 3
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • May 4, 2016 – Molto VeLoce Circuit NASCAR (180 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) NASCAR Results 1. Jim M - 100 Laps (23.052 ext.) 2. Frank - 99 (19.155) 3. Drew - 98 (20.013) 4. Art - 96 (14.436) 5. John - 96 (15.800) 6. MiA - 87 (17.583) F1S (180 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) F1S Results 1. Art - 106 Laps (15.378 ext.) 2. John - 104 (12.532) 3. Frank - 103 (12.950) 4. Jim M - 102 (9.136) 5. Drew - 102 (9.847) 6. MiA - 92 (16.942) CAN AM (180 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) CAN AM Results 1. Art - 112 Laps (13.765 ext.) 2. Drew - 107 (12.146) 3. Jim M - 107 (12.546) 4. John - 107 (16.749) 5. Frank - 102 (23.362) 6. MiA - 93 (18.126) LMP(240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 16 min.) LMP Results 1. Art - 152 Laps (10.755 ext.) 2. John - 146 (16.103) 3. Drew - 144 (14.967) 4. Jim M - 139 (19.464) 5. MiA - 131 (15.524) 6. Frank - 123 (15.524) Cheers! - Art :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • VW Track Maintenance Van Not a scratch built model but the body of this VW White/Blue Camper Van was modified into a Track Maintenance vehicle enough so to warrant sharing in the forum. The original Scaley VW Van was previously modified to enhance performance by replacing the tires, wheels, axles, motor, pinion and braid. I used a BWA 9 tooth pinion on a BWMS050 motor with the original crown gear fixed to a new rear axle spinning through bearings. Wheels front and back were BW13-200-093-375 with 375LOT4WOB inserts capped with DART half moons. RM0201 tires finished the look. 7 grams of weight were added to the front of the plastic chassis and body float created for better handling. But the white/royal blue camper was of no use, so it sat on the shelf until now. This past Saturday we ran the IPS proxy and later that afternoon I decided to get off couch and complete this project. If you watched the Blue Jay game Saturday afternoon then you had enough time to do what I did below to turn this pleasure camper into a daily track workhorse. I removed the body from the chassis and disassembled the entire body and its components. The front and rear bumpers are separate pieces so they came off when the body was removed. Using dishwashing liquid I washed the pieces that were going to get sprayed: front and rear bumpers, main body, roof, split window front windscreen area and rear windows. I wanted to use Tamiya liquid surface grey primer mixed with a little Tamiya metallic blue (X-13) and diluted with paint thinner for the air brush. This gives the otherwise grey primer a light blue tint with a very faint metallic fleck - a theme to be carried over to other track vehicles in the future. I also wanted to glaze all of the rear windows using Tamiya TS-80, a flat clear spray on both the inside and outside of the windows to keep away any shine and make them almost opaque. After airbrushing the bumpers and entire body pieces everything dried for a half hour or so. I brushed on Tamiya XF-53, neutral grey, on the front and rear seats but left the dashboard, doors and floor the same colour as the body. The dashboard, steering wheel and 'stiff' driver were left as is since I didn't want to make this a whole day project. While the body pieces were drying I soldered together a working trailer hitch which I fixed to the rear of the plastic chassis. This was just buffed and not painted. I plan to make several trailers including a victory podium trailer... stay tuned for them... but that's for a NASCAR afternoon... I also hand painted the front split window edging with the same colour and then highlighted the window detail with some silver paint. This part was a pain in the ass and took nearly an inning. I also highlighted hinges and door handles with the same silver paint (the pictures do not capture this adequately). Since these areas are so fine if you do get some paint bleeding onto the window portion you can simply take a toothpick and rub away the paint using the pointed end of the toothpick after the paint has dried... this trick doesn't work on any painted surface though. After the paint was dry I made two pylon holders for each of the rear quarters of the body using .032 wire. These I didn't paint and simply drilled mounting holes and glued them into place. DArt Urethane Pylons were pushed onto these wires to complete each side. I then soldered together a small roof fence using .032 wire and buffed it. Again, I wasn't going to paint this either. This took another inning. I drilled oversized holes for the six posts. Finally it was time to reassemble and glue everything else together. Loose tires were added to the roof tray but not glued in place. The tray is also large enough to accommodate three straw bales... I contemplated adding graphics or lettering in white to the body but in the end opted not to, a choice I am glad I stuck with. I can always do so later on if I change my mind. I also have yet to add a rack with shovels and brooms to this van but there's always tomorrow...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 4
    • 7 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Porsche 804 Grand Prix This is another class eligible (60GP) or VRAA body kit - a Porsche 804 that raced in 1962. In the usual silver livery it is a pleasant alternative to the green, red, blue and yellow entries in this class and a car that everyone should have in their 1960's Grand Prix stable. I've decided to make two versions, one using the existing original car/driver detail and another which will be modified to include enhanced details, including added cockpit/driver detail, wire roll bar & aluminium exhaust detail (mirrors, wire roll bar and exhaust pipes are included in the DArt kit). This version is utilizing the original details but for the added mirrors. This vintage representation of the 804 is quite nice despite the fact that the nose is more 'bulbous' (sp?) than the original to accommodate a guide/front axle... other slot car manufacturers have struggled with this problem too with various levels of success. As with any 1/32nd model made to perform on track compromise with the silhouette of a car is unavoidable. I chose to go with a livery of the #30 car (driven by Gurney) with the only victory for Porsche in the French GP. I exchanged the kit head (which is very nice and should be used for Bonnier (or others)) with the Gurney head from Scaley releases. The driver shoulder and arm detail along with the fan & transmission and exhaust details are not bad on the original model. Of course I am talking about the original Scaley release of this model from the 60's... The windscreen is nice too, although a touch large but for a model to be raced that is just fine... First I removed any flashing on the body and windscreen using a fine x-acto knife. The original finish of the body in this kit is good, not perfect, since the original model/material was quite rough in areas and required a tonne of work, but just a little more sanding of the kit body will remove any remaining blemishes (and should be done for any body you plan to paint). Regardless, the material is easily sanded. I also test fitted the windscreen to ensure a nice fit. I trimmed the body post and drilled a hole for the mounting screw I planned to use - I may sleeve this with a piece of styrene tubing down the road depending on the abuse this car will take. Although I would still use the original roll bar and exhaust detail that doesn't mean I can't improve it a little - so I drilled small holes into both exhaust pipes and drilled out the solid roll bar detail. I decided to leave the air intake covers alone and not hollow them out since that would take a lot of work and the probability of screwing that up was way too high. Instead I planned to cut out the 'openings' from a dark coloured tent repair nylon 'adhesive' and fix that sticker in place, as I've done on other projects. In the end the result will look just like a dark grill is covering each opening. Just be sure to cut the nylon patch adhesive using a very sharp blade (for longer narrow strips I use a box cutter blade and after positioning it flat along the edge to be cut just tap it with a hobby hammer to make a clean cut - don't waste your time cutting it by dragging your blade along a straight edge...) After washing the pieces to be painted and letting them dry I primed them all using rattle can Tamiya Fine White Primer. Then the whole body was painted with Tamiya TS-30 (Silver Leaf) and given two coats. At this point I decided to paint the nose of the windscreen silver to match the body so it was masked using Tamiya Masking Tape and sprayed as well. Standard Revell-Monogram black number decals were added using Micro Set/Sol. For the more detailed model I will airbrush the numbers instead... I finally painted a 'suggestion' of a Porsche logo on the nose... I then decided to try something different - an acrylic spray for the finish - I used a can of Krylon Crystal Clear (41303) and gave the body two heavy coats. I have to say I am very happy with the gloss/finish using this stuff since I didn't sand anything I sprayed. It did take a considerable amount of time to dry, not unlike Tamiya clear however. But patience is of course a virtue here. I hand painted the transmission & exhaust details, roll bar, driver's chest/arms/hands & steering wheel - didn't need primer - used Tamiya acrylics... some flat, some gloss depending on what I was painting. I also hand painted the driver's head and mirrors. I used Citadel Mithril Silver (it closely matches the Tamiya silver paint) on the whole mirror and a darker grey on the mirror lenses since I like the effect it creates. I dropped in some Future floor polish into each goggle lens and used a strip of a dark coloured nylon tent repair adhesive for a goggle strap. There was no need for seat belts so none were made from tent repair... After everything was finally cured I drilled two fine holes for each mirror and tested for fit. I glued the driver's head into place with Amazing GOOP (clear). I glued the windscreen into place using Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy. Rather than running a thin bead of epoxy along the bottom of the windscreen I simply applied the epoxy into each of the four mounting pin holes using a toothpick. This ensured a nice clean bond. As for the mirrors, since they were being mounted into the body and not the windscreen I opted to use a pin to apply a tiny amount of Gorilla Super Glue into each hole before pressing each mirror into place. I wasn't worried about fogging so Super Glue was fine to use... The front edge of the windscreen that was painted silver in my opinion needed something else to clean up the look where it touched the body (the unpainted sides gave a nice clean edge and didn't need anything else). Since this is something that is easy to botch up if you try painting directly, I opted to brush on the same silver paint I used on the mirrors onto a very thin strip of nylon tent repair adhesive. I trimmed to fit and then applied along the leading edge of the windscreen that was painted silver too. I was tempted to add more detail to this car but decided against doing so. In my opinion it looks fine as it is. The complete painted body as is weighs in at 11.2 grams. A fun project - time to get to work on the chassis now...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 4
    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 360 degree POV Camera vehicle A 360 degree camera mounted on a modified Range Rover at MiniGrid. Click on the screen and move your mouse around to change the camera angle! https://youtu.be/QreTCVWgSnY It was my pleasure to be able to drive this rig and I have to say the results are great. 360 a whole new way to think about camera's on slot cars, among other things. And the final version of the vehicle looks great too. Something right out of what a real Hollywood crane truck looks like! We did experiment with different speeds with the camera vehicle and found that running it at about 75% or so gave the best picture. Not too slow to put you to sleep, and not too fast to make you nauseous. Lap times were about equivalent to Cartrix cars with BWA motors.

      Started by: JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots in: Slot Related Curiosities, Oddities & One of a Kind

    • 3
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Interesting VW and site Greetings, stumbled upon this site whilst looking for information on the resin body/kit I picked up at thee SLotcar show, a 'Daimler 250' (thanks for ID'ing MiA!) the wee beast had a V8 Hemi!...ANyway, look at this VW, don't believe I've ever seen 1, and what a beaut. You could make it yours too...$$$ Lots of other 1:1 Candy. :good:   https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-puma-gt-1600/    

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the  IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width.  The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred.  Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire  and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height.   As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year.  :yahoo: Dave  

      Started by: DBDB in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      DBDB

    • The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 4
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ferrari 612 CANAM Ferrari 612 CANAM A few shots of the first completed DArt Ferrari 612 CANAM model. This model uses only the stock parts included with the DArt body kit - mirror, rollbar, driver's head and inkjet decals. Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer was used over Tamiya Fine Primer. The paint was polished but there is no clear coat on this one. Wax was the preferred final finish. The shell is mounted to the chassis using two centrally located posts, one immediately behind the front axle, the other infront of the motor. DArt urethane washers placed between the posts and the chassis dampen movement of the shell. The chassis was one of my first scratch built sidewinder configurations. This is a simple chassis - nothing fancy - but it is perfectly balanced. As you can see it is not polished or clear coated and so shows its age (although well I think). The centre brass section was added when the chassis was tuned for racing. If memory serves well the motor is a Fox 10 soldered directly to the chassis with 11 x 36T Slot.It pinion and spur gear. Aftermarket hard drill blank axles through brass tube at the front and oilite bushings at the rear attach BWA 15" .380 sized alloy wheels with DArt small inserts (included with the kit) and DArt urethane tires (SI0201) front and back. A vintage nylon guide was chosen for this project. This chassis/shell combination proves that you need not do anything fancy to make a rocket. The front wheels could yet be converted to independent spinners to further enhance cornering speeds - but why bother when it is at the sharp end already? Setting sail to another country hopefully this model will offer as much enjoyment for its new host/collector as it did for me. :cry:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Chassis acceptability Art, quick question.  To finish my 356 I used a Strombecker brass chassis with some modification.  So is a custom body mated to a Strombecker brass chassis eligible for scratch 32?  I am thinking not but wanted to check as I thought that was dealt with on the Forum but couldn't locate it.  Thanks

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 4
    • 5 years ago

      DBDB

    • Super Roadster I became motivated to build the first model of my double Lindberg hot rod kit.   There are enough parts to build 3 variations of each model but I created a hybrid.  As you will be able to tell, I like chrome.   I used the kit chassis and then cut it back, then clamped and glued to the internal body sides.  That allowed for a fairly simple chassis. The chassis is secured by a single screw into the engine block.   The rear axle is secured in place by 1/8th inch eyelets which maintains body ride height.  The decals  are from the kit and I think they are kind of cool. Color is French Blue which is similar to kit color.   Wheel inserts are from my parts bin.   Wheels from Pendles and RS Slots.

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      DBDB

    • Race Transporter Reference Drawings I wasn't sure where to post this so please feel free to move this thread. I was recently pointed to a thread on Slotforum that contains scale plans by Mike Sells for many vintage race transporters. Anyone feeling ambitious and need a winter project? https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182130&hl=%2Btransporter+%2Bplan Cheers Bill  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Maserati 250F (Scalex body) There is a Shelby #5 car in the database already. So in an attempt to be different, I grabbed a can of Tamiya Coral Blue not knowing how the car would look. Without the details, it looks a bit scary. Over the top blue. The rest of the car made all the difference. Art's suggestion of white roundels really made the numbers and colour pop.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Major Update Coming Next Week to Scratch32 Folks, I must apply a manual update to our website but since there is a great chance things may no longer work as they do now (or not at all) I'm leaving it for later this week (November 8th or 9th) when I'll have extra time to wait on hold for technical support if things go off the rails. Sorry about that. BTW, this update should not change anything if it goes according to plan - so you won't notice anything if it is successful. :unsure: Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

    • 3
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 XXXV @ Spa-Lyons – February 24, 2020 On a chilly February evening, and for the second time this decade, teams loaded up their transporters for the journey to Spa-Lyons. Teams arrived to find the track already alive with spectators, many who had come to cheer on their favourite who was scheduled to debut the new Rover BRM turbine car. Spectators and media had assumed the best possible locations. Even Bib was trying to get in on the show. Track regulars Bill and Sally were back at Hot Tub Corner again, but mindful of the stir created by them during the last race meeting, the Woman’s White Cross League were there in their proper skirts and practical loafers, attempting (somewhat futilely perhaps) to preserve virtuous behaviour for all of mankind!! As the evening began, drivers seemed unusually well behaved (perhaps it was the lack of a NASCAR event) and things started off smoothly with a 50’s Vintage race. After a very gentlemanly race with few incidents, Robert Manzon in his beautiful Gordini T-32, relived his triumphant finish in the GP of Reims and showed the field the way home with 63 laps. He was followed one lap later (62) by ‘The Pampas Bull’ Jose Froilan Gonzalez, showing the Italian flag and driving the same Ferrari 375 he had driven to victory in the 1951 Silverstone GP. Two laps back with 60 was Snidley Whiplash in his beautiful turquoise Maserati 250F. With 58 laps, and in his reserve Ferrari D50, was Juan Manuel Fangio with 58 laps. Next up on the schedule were sports cars. A mixed bag representing a wide range of eras took to the track. A Jaguar XK120 fresh from the Alpen Rally led the field with 61 laps, followed by a 1965 Rover BRM driven by crowd favourite Sir Jackie Stewart only 5 seconds behind in second. Punching well above it’s class, the VW Beetle 1200 DeLuxe of Manuel Hinke, fresh (??) from it’s running in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana finished a distant 3rd with 57 laps, but showing it's heels to an even older 1950 Ferrari 166 MM/212 “Uovo” driven by Giannino ‘the tailor’ Marzotto that finished with 56 laps. With 52 laps, the 1966 Porsche 904 GTS of George Follmer and Peter Gregg that ran in the 1966 Sebring 12 hours followed along after a very tidy run. Sir Jackie’s result sent many of the elated fans scurrying to open a fresh Tripel Karmeliet and racing was paused so all could enjoy the moment. After a break and a delicious chocolate cupcake sugar fix courtesy of Johnathan the drivers were back at it in Vintage Lemans cars. A lone Ferrari 512S Coda Lunga in very un-Italian silver led an almost all Porsche grid to the chequered flag with a blistering 68 laps. It was followed 3 laps later by a Porsche 907 LH in livery as raced in the 1968 24H of Daytona piloted by Jo Siffert & Hans Hermann. It was followed 2 laps later by a Porsche 917K from the 1970 24 Hrs. of Lemans and driven by Gijs Van Lennep & David Piper with 63 laps. Next along with 62 laps was a 1971 Porsche 917LH  in Martini livery that was raced by Gérard Larrousse & Vic Elford. A 1969 Targa Florio liveried Porsche 907K piloted by Hans Dieter Dechent and Gerhard Koch rounded out the field with 57 laps. The evening ended with CanAm cars roaring to life. After many enlightening trips past Hot Tub Corner the McLAREN M8D sponsored by Paul Newman Racing and as driven by  Bob Bondrant at the 1971 series opening race at Mosport easily outclassed the field with a scorching 73 laps. Eating tire dust all the way home, the team of an Alfa Romeo T33/4 driven by Scooter Patrick and sponsored  by West Coast Distributor Otto Zipper Alfa and  a Chaparral 2E as  piloted by Phil Hill at the 1966 Mosport Can-Am trailed in 6 laps later with 67 circuits. A McLaren M20 piloted by Denny Hulme was further back with 64 laps and having a few mechanical issues a 1974 McLaren M20 Interseries car piloted by privateer Mark Kelleners finished with 58 laps. A 1971 Sebring liveried Alfa Romeo T33/3 liveried as driven by Nino Vaccarella and Tony Heinzman finished with 57 laps. To the victors went the champagne as they were all toasted appropriately, in the finest time honoured tradition. It was great to return again to Spa-Lyons. Thanks to our host Drew and his wife Nancy for their hospitality on a brisk February evening!

      Started by: MiAMiA in: R32

    • 5
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Can you I.D. This kit? I found this at a show a few years ago. It looks like a Monogram static kit from the 60's based on the bottom chassis piece but the interior has Strombecker body mounting posts. Interestingly for a static kit, it also has aluminum Revell like rims and rubber tires on threaded metal axles. Not quite a Lola T70. ie different windshield and body details. Intake was missing so I added a D'Art Hobbies aftermarket intake. It may make it to the track at some point in the future.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 3
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Salivary Exchange at the Track ! That’s a very strange title!  But, a relevant one in our era of viral epidemics. Hello gentlemen racers, and fellow ‘slot addictos’.    (I posted this on the weekend; it was listed for a while then disappeared.) Saliva, secreted by the salivary glands inside the mouth, is primarily water but holds a very large collection of cells, molecules and compounds, including white blood cells, epithelial cells, enzymes such as salivary amylase for the initial breakdown of carbohydrates, and many other components. Apparently, one millilitre of saliva contains up to 8 million human cells and 500 million bacterial cells. So what has this to do with scale racing? Well, a popular method of cleaning tires for the track is to put a layer of saliva on one’s thumb and rub it along, through, and into the tire contact surface. It seems to be effective in gaining traction! Of course, a good proportion of the contents of that first person’s saliva is transferred from his tires into the track. Another person’s car later runs on the same lane and his tires pick up the salivary components left by the first person’s tires. When that second person cleans his tires by the same technique, repeatedly putting thumb to mouth, the second person now has a good number of cells and molecules from the first person’s saliva. I know we are all friends, but I don’t think we all want to be that friendly! (No need to further expand on the health consequences generated by this practice.) Now, coming from sponge tire use, I’ve never had occasion to practice this method of improving traction, nor had I any inclination to apply it previously, when I was using urethane tires. For those, I usually carried a small bottle of water and applied a drop to my tires.   The first track of Arts that I saw was a few years ago, the MVL track. He had invited me to the Friday track cleaning and prep session before the scheduled Saturday race. (I couldn’t attend the race day because I had a 24’th scale one already scheduled for the same day, and I was doing the tech inspection of all the cars.)   To that Friday pre-race session, I brought along a couple of 32’nd scale cars, and my 24’th scale Porsche 962 Lowenbrau, as well as a tire cleaning kit I had constructed. I cleaned each of the rear tires with my kit, before running them on the track. The previous night, I had already removed my sponge-tire rear wheels from the 24’th scale car and replace them with a set of rims with urethane tires, wheels that I had sitting in a pill vile for the previous five years.  (The chassis was brass base-plate and phenolic suspension-plate that I had designed.)  Art let me run the car when no one else was on the track. I could not believe it; I had never seen such good traction on that car, with any tire - sponge or urethane, on any track surface - treated or untreated!  (Those urethane tires had been cleaned only with water.)   Photo of my 24’th scale Porsche 962 on MVL track; (body a bit beat up from years of racing, but I bought a spare when they were still available).   The tire cleaning kit I built is a fairly simple design, not my invention; I just made a few improvements to one I had seen long ago. It’s made from a small plastic food storage bin in which I cut a slot into the lid and attached brass conducting strips to contact the car brushes. The bin itself stores a sponge wetted with water, a transformer-rectifier wall plug, a 9V dry cell, all the wiring and connectors. I set it up so I could use it on the bench with the wall plug, or use it portable at trackside with the optional dry cell. That allows quick cleaning of the rear tires in between heats, if the ruleset permits. It’s very simple and easy, and works better than spit !   Photo of my cleaning kit as would be used;  ( I’ve thrown in a few other cars to compare 32’nd, 24’th and 18’th scales. )   Hope you find this a bit useful. Felix.   I used to be one of the sharpest tools in the shed; now I’m just a slot-head !

      Started by: FelixFelix in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 3
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Keeping track of paint cans Running out of paint near the end of painting a car will ruin a paint job. A full can of Tamiya spray paint ranges from 133-grams to 138-grams. Empty, the can weighs 60-grams. (cap included) It takes more paint to cover a car when you make an extreme colour change. It also take more paint to cover a car when you use paints that are weak in pigment strength like yellow. You can sometimes get 2-paint jobs out of a can of paint if you don't fight the colour. Sometimes it's just not possible. I weigh the cans before, and after using them to see if there's enough paint for a second car. For me, the can becomes touch-up paint only once they go below 95-grams. Specially yellow. The last 5 to 7-grams grams of any can are often not useful because the spray becomes erratic near the end. All used cans get marked with a permanent marker stating the weight, and are weighed with the cap on. Testors paint cans are about the same. Best of luck with what ever you're painting and building!

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 4
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Airfix 1933 MG K3 Magnette Hi Gents: I have been interested in this car for its appearance and its history.  I’ve had the Airfix kit in my eBay shopping cart for a while, but have decided that I can’t afford it. I’m posting it here in case someone else may be interested in it. It’s the Airfix 8204, 1933 MG K3 Magnette. It is listed at $35 usd, but it’s shipped through eBay’s ‘Global Shipping Program’. This redirects the package from the seller, to a third party facility in Erlanger, KY (often in the opposite direction to the purchaser’s destination), apparently re-packages it then ships it to the purchaser. They also tack on an import charge ‘to cover duties’. In fact, model kits, diecast models, slotcars are all categorized as toys by the Canada Border Services Agency and do not require duties or excise fees, (though they can trigger GST, usually collected by Canada Post). There have also been many complaints from sellers and buyers regarding poor handling, damaged and missing packages at the Erlanger facility. It’s basically another scheme to allow eBay to skim off more money from the purchaser. I have always refused, on principle, to buy anything shipped through their GSP. It looks like a nice kit for our pre-war series, but I don’t know the quality. I have found some of the Airfix kits made in England to be excellent, whereas some others have been terrible in terms of moulding and casting. (This one is made in Texas by USAirfix, and is the 1980 re-box edition.)  It is listed at $35 usd (C$50), plus $10.50 ship to Canada, but when you go to buy it, there is an additional $10.50 that shows up as ‘import fees’. That brings the total to $56 usd, or C$82 with the added PayPal exchange surcharge. That’s more than twice my limit for a 32’nd scale model kit. However, someone else in the group may have a higher cost threshold, or may have a US shipping address set up through their business, or through a relative. But even with that, it may still be overpriced. (I’ll still buy one if I can find a fair price.)   https://www.ebay.com/itm/USAirfix-Kit-8204-K3-Magnette-MG-1-32-Scale-USAirfix-Plastic-Model-SEALED-NIB/324101968737  

      Started by: FelixFelix in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      FelixFelix

    • 32 Ford seda hot rod New to this forum. Usually build sports cars but in recent years have delved into domestic hot rods. Had the opportunity to build starting with a resin copy of the old 1/32 Aurora 32 Ford Ski-Doo body. Built a simple ladder chassis with .055" piano wire, .064" brass strip and a JK F1 motor bracket. Power's a Slot It flat can with a Slot It pinion and Plafit crown gear (3mm).  Went with a 3mm rear axle as the hot rod rims I had were for that size axle. Fronts are RS Slot Racing rims with tires of unknown origin. Came out well with quite a raked stance. Runs pretty good in a straight line but I really prefer cars that can handle the corners. Dan

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Lotus 25 This is a super shells Lotus 25 body married to a simple scratch built brass and piano wire chassis.  The decals applied to this body are from a 1965 Indianapolis Lotus 38. This is a 1.5L car, therefore it is set up with a BWA motor, geared 10P x 23. I wasn't satisfied with the first paint, so the body was soaked in super clean overnight, scrubbed clean and remanded, then repainted. The second attempt. The completed project. Ready to be raced Thanks for looking    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Links to slot car sites I ordered some cars from this site some time ago and waited to see whether the site was a scram or not before passing it on. Wait time is fairly long and I wondered whether the site was legit or not. Pricing was quite good, in Canadian dollars, free shipping. Selection is very limited, and mixed in with a bunch of R/C stuff, but if they have something you are interested in and you don't mind waiting then it might work for you. Cars arrived yesterday, no unpleasant surprises,  so site and pricing is as advertised. :good: https://www.shop4ca.com/radio-controlled-cars

      Started by: MiAMiA in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Ferrari 330 P4 – #224 Well this is a build of a Policar white kit of a Ferrari 330 P4 that I have built in my spare time during the second wave of the lockdown. I decided to build the car that ran in the 1967 Targa Florio #224                         The kit came with two rear motor covers; one with an indented channel and one that is an inverted concave that is used on the stock RTR model. In order to achieve the look of the targa model, I had to cut the roof off the plastic kit and I used the motor cover with the inverted channel.  I then cut a small piece of styrene building siding to fit the channel and glued it into place.  Perfect look to match the original model.  I could take this one step further and paint the vertical bits black but they look good already as they are. These photos were taken prior to the installation of the wiper and headlight lenses.   No chassis built yet, this model sits on a plastic chassis at the moment. Here is the built model next to the stock model that comes RTR with full roof Ready to race.... zoom zoom! Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • Painting a Driver’s Head Last week I had the opportunity to paint a 1:10 scale driver's head for a friend. It was for his R/C off road vehicle - but I'm not sure which manufacturer's - I suspect Tamiya but I could very well be wrong... I used Tamiya flat acrylics diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner (for airbrushing) or water (hand painting/washes). After cleaning the plastic parts with SuperClean I airbrushed the head with a stock skin tone then darkened that skin tone slightly with a tiny amount of brown for the faint shadow underneath the cheeks, chin and ears. While the airbrush was still within reach I painted the cap with another stock dark olive colour. All of the airbrushing was done using roughly a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya acrylic paint and thinner to get a milk like consistency that I find perfect for airbrushing. Three light coats gave me enough base coverage. For the hand brushing I always start with the hardest or more detailed parts first - in this case the eyes - since if I screw things up I don't lose as much time if I have to apply the base coat over again. For the eyes I washed in some off white (which I think is still too bright - next time I'll add more colour to the white) then painted the iris blue and then the pupil black. I added a little line of diluted brown both above and below the eye for his eyelashes. Then I added a few very diluted washes of red over the lips - starting with the most diluted coat first over the whole lip area followed by a touch more pigment to the centre of the lips until I was satisfied with the result. Brown hair and eyebrows were next followed by some lightened highlights. Cleanup for everything was with Dollar store nail polish remover (with acetone) and so there was never any unpleasant smell. Soaking the airbrush parts in this solution for a few minutes then scrubbing them clean took all but 15 minutes... I did not use a primer and although I cleaned the plastic the paint can be scratched off with a finger nail if one tries... fortunately this head will not be handled much (if at all) so this was not a concern - but I would use a primer next time... ...hope this helps!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

    • 4
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Axle spacers and crown gears This combination of spacers was recently used on the Beetle chassis. I measured the distance between the bushings. Then measured the crown thickness. I was very lucky in that the numbers were close enough without having to use too many spacers to take up the gap. The exact right number. They are sitting in order of how they sit on the axle. 2mm brass and an 0.010" inch steel spacer.    Crown gear.    1.5mm brass and 2 x 0.005" inch steel spacers. Before gluing the motor in, the 0.010" spacer was installed on the same side as the 2 x 0.005" spacers. The motor was epoxied in place holding the gears tight to each other. After the 5-minute epoxy hardened. The axle was removed, and re-installed with the 0.010" washer on the other side to create an exact gear mesh clearance. The crown has raised letters that can interfere with measuring it. So I sand it smooth with 400-grit paper on a flat surface. I make small circles so as not to sand any side down more than the other. What I found by mistake is that you can easily take a tenth of a millimeter off the width of the crown to help it fit better. Use the least amount of spacers as possible during assembly. They can have a bit of a spring-like reaction in larger numbers. Best regards, Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Assembly Tips

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Dart Hobbies Porsche 804 Four years ago, I read Art's post on how to prepare the Dart Porsche 804 kit and I immediately  wanted one. Followed most of his advice and placed  it over a simple chassis - from a simple mind. Originally it had an AB Slot motor bracket but I was never happy with the performance.  I have since built a new chassis with a homemade motor plate allowing me to angle the motor and achieve a lower ground clearance.  Just waiting use it in a race.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • Taking Apart Scalextric GP When the Scalextric Legends series became available, I recall people saying that they had a hard time taking them apart to remove the magnets, as needed for participation in proxy races on plastic track. Of the Lotus49 versions, the Lotus72 versions, the Eagle T1G Weslake, and the Tyrrell 002/003, it turns out that the Tyrrell is the most difficult to open and take apart. This is because of the ‘clamshell body’ as well as the way the rear suspension is built, both factors being different from the other models in the series. I needed to take apart my Tyrrell in order to see what was causing the irregular power loss, and repair it. I also wanted to convert to a regular guide keel. I later found that the left rear rim is wobbling slightly, and the gear mesh is rough from 8.5V all the way past 15V.   Since the other models in the series are easier to take apart, a description for the Tyrrell should cover those as well.  [ I will outline some of the differences as they arise in the discussion, and provide some suggestions. ]  Besides repair, it’s also useful to open these cars first if you are considering a scratch-built chassis. Two items to note:  Even within a particular model, the cementing of the connection joints may be different from one sample to another and therefore may separate at a different junction. Because of the nature of these bodies and the intricate suspensions, in order to take them apart certain cemented joints may have to be broken apart and the tabs may break in the process.   A.  I would remove the rear wing and all tires, since they obstruct some of the joints you will be working on. The first main stage in opening these bodies starts with removing the 5 screws under the base plate. In the case of the Tyrell, this will loosen the seam between the top and bottom sections of the clamshell body. Now, slowly and carefully lift the front cowling, (top half, in front of the engine). This should eventually loosen and lift off.  That's the easy stage, completed.   As shown in the photo, you now have the driver, cockpit, guide keel, and front suspension open. This will allow replacement or repair of the guide keel, and you can re-assemble the car if no other work is needed. (I could now see that my red lead wire was frayed and must have finally broken; very fine wires, with little flex.)   B.  If you decide to go further, the second main stage of separation starts with holding both front rims in one hand; twist the front assembly slightly. Try to identify the seam joints in the front suspension – see which joints are cemented and which are just dry contact. In the case of the Tyrrell, there is U-shaped tab joint on the bottom of the front suspension assembly. That joint is cemented and must be carefully loosened by twisting, prying, making a partial cut through it, wedging with a tiny chisel blade (one of the optional Exacto knife blades), or by any other careful means that comes to mind.  If it is strongly cemented together, you may have to do a partial cut then break the seam – it can be easily cemented back together at re-assembly. (In my sample, the cemented seam separated quite well using the above methods, and it stayed intact for re-assembly. The tops of the springs were in dry contact.)   Once those bottom joints are loosened, the whole front assembly, rims, axles, top half of the suspension, link-plate to the instrument cluster and steering wheel, can all be lifted up off the car. [ After a grueling race, you may need to carefully pry the driver’s hands off the steering wheel! ]   As shown in the photo, unlike the other cars in the series, the Tyrrell has stub axles, so you would have to take things apart up to this stage if you were to change the plastic front rims to aluminum ones.   [ Comparison with the other models:  Judging from the joint seams on the other cars, it appears that: In the case of the Lotus49, the whole front suspension assembly would lift off of the chassis plate, and remain intact with the body. In the case of the Eagle and the Lotus72, the whole front suspension assembly would stay intact with the chassis plate. (As mentioned, it’s possible that this may still vary from one sample to another, depending on which seams are more strongly cemented.) ]   C.  The third and last stage in the work is a bit more tricky, but necessary if you want to repair or replace any parts related to the motor or rear axle assembly. There are two general ways to approach this stage.  Option-A involves breaking the seams at the bottom of the rear suspension uprights, and results in the top half of the engine-transmission housing, top half of the rear suspension assembly, and the full rear axle assembly, all lifting up off the rest, leaving the motor and bottom half of the suspension to remain with the chassis.  Option-B involves separating off the top half of the engine-transmission housing, lifting it upwards, and results in both the upper and lower suspension components, and the full rear axle assembly, remaining on the chassis along with the motor (basically as it would in a regular chassis). I tried the first approach and found that, on my sample, the seams at the bottom of the rear suspension uprights were hard to get at, and were strongly cemented, and there didn’t seem to be any other advantage to that option. On the other hand, I found (at least in my sample) that option-B would allow me to separate the key components at dry-fit joints.  With either approach, the first two steps in the work of this stage are the same. The rear oil tank/exhaust support covers the back seam of the transmission housing, and must be removed. It can be pried loose with a tiny chisel or flat-head screw driver. (In my sample, it snapped off clean without breaking the tab or socket.)  You will now find that the horizontal seam all around in between the upper and lower half of the Cosworth engine and transmission housing, is loose. But don’t try to separate it yet.  There are left and right tie rods coming up from the bottom rear corners of the suspension, linking to stabilizing arms that cross the top of the transmission housing. I found that I could flex the top arms downward and slide and flex the tie rods backward, enough to separate the two. The rear suspension springs contact the lower assembly by dry-fit and will separate away attached to the top half. Now the top half of the engine-transmission housing, along with the attached driver, can be carefully separated and lifted up off of the bottom half. The reason I say carefully, is that the left coolant pipe winds its way from the front radiator, along the side of the body, over the exhaust headers, and up over the top of the transmission cover. Fortunately it’s a flexible pipe and is dry-fitted, so it can be slowly flexed away as you remove engine-transmission.   This step completes the last stage of the separation work, and gives access to the motor and rear axle assembly, allowing changes in motor, pinion, axle, crown gear, bushings/bearings and rims.   [ Comparison with the other models:  I’ve described how taking apart the other cars in this series affects their front suspensions. The Lotus49, Eagle, and Lotus72 models also have rear suspension constructions that are easier to take apart than the Tyrrell 002/003. The models other than the Tyrrell have rear uprights that have an inverted U-shaped opening with two pegs at the bottom that fit into holes in a plate in the bottom A-arm. This connection is either a dry-fit, or a minimal glue surface connection in the samples I’ve seen. There are two advantages stemming from this geometry; there is either little or no glue seam to break at the bottom, and the U-shaped opening allows the whole rear axle assembly to be lifted off of the rear suspension and a new one dropped in its place. Whereas, on the Tyrrell, even after fully separated, there is still a cylinder surrounding the axle at the outer end of the suspension, even if other parts were cut away. This means that, in order to change the crown gear or the bushings, you must pull the axle through those disc surrounds that are moulded extensions of the uprights. The only way to do so is to pull the rims off of the axle, and force the crown gear off the axle over what I would assume would be a knurled section. This, all the while the axle and crown gear are being housed in a structure of flimsy plastic. The way these cars are designed, I can only conclude that they are not intended to have parts repaired or upgraded!  (Finding aluminum rims correctly sized to match, is another matter!) ]   I hope this description is of some use to anyone considering a replacement of internal parts, or design of a scratch-built chassis for these GP cars.        Felix.    

      Started by: FelixFelix in: How To – Tune It

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • 1/87 fun Inspired by MIA’s Aston Martin article I thought I’d post a pic of an Ho transporter and cargo I picked up on my most recent visit to Ireland. It is a postal vehicle breakdown lorry made by Oxford die cast as are its cargo.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 4
    • 4
    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • More Updates & Some Success! Over the past few weeks we've had some major updates to our website and, it appears, fingers crossed, that the issues we had previously of some accounts not being able to post automatically have been resolved. Nothing I've done recently in the settings solved this but an upgrade finally did. Yahoo!! Next up - to figure out why our website is so slow... but that is another chapter in this saga...  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

    • 3
    • 4
    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • Christmas at Spa! Well, it comes a little early... Christmas will come early at Spa, Saturday December 10th. No need to bring presents, unless of course you feel compelled to bring a 12 year old single malt... LOL Doors will open at 10:30, Flag drop 11:30, intend to have short intermission/lunch mid point, I'll order Pizza. Classes will be Classic LM 50's Sportscar(NOT 50's-60's) 70's GP Modern LM Time permitting, possibly an IROC, cars TBD, provided by moi. Please advise ASAP, would like to know by this Friday, require minimum of 5, and MAX of 9.   December 10th, a lovely time of year of year in the Ardennes, unless you were battling Panzers! Been a while since we've enjoyed a day at the Spa, looking forward to seeing you here!

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: R32

    • 5
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots

    • Cyber Monday is coming!! Hello Racers, stay tuned to Classified section tomorrow....CFO has 'suggested' I cull the herd, and I'm heeding the 'advice'. :>)   Will have new and used/not abused on offer. All used cars are shod with D'Art rear tyres. Slot.it/Racer Sideways/Scaley and perhaps others. Purchase any 2 cars, $5 off total, any 3, $10. Please e-mail if interested [email protected]        

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Other Local Events & Happenings

    • 2
    • 4
    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • Where to source Rondels/Numbers Hi gents, Where do you get your decals from? I know the specific liveries are great from Indycals, but I'm looking  for rondels/numbers, of varying fonts ideally, and more 60-70's centric style.... I've created many of my own decals, sponsor wise, but they're really only good on certain coloured cars, as of course I don't have an ALPS printer... I did buy some from SCC a few years ago but I've only had limited success, I usually ruin about 1 out 4 or 2 out of 4, even though I put a 'bonder' on prior to application, they seem to pull apart, disintegrate, VERY aggravating. I'd like to get some rondels that have perhaps a thin outer 'edge' in black, blue, red etc., and also numbers in Black, and white as well(use without rondel).I have made my own rondels with White decal paper and a punch, and they're not too bad, I can afford to ruin a few... :>) Appreciate suggestions, thanks in advance!

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Decals

    • 3
    • 4
    • 1 year ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • Need a Trike!! OK, perhaps a little late for this Christmas, but maybe next year... This is CRAZY AMAZING!!!   Brought a lot of smiles/laughter to me, hopefully same to you!!   WHo knew a Big Wheel could be sooo much fun!!     https://youtu.be/gz_271z1A2U

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Interesting Reality Bites

    • 4
    • 4
    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • R32 LXX FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 18, 2023 @ Nova Ridge Classes: NASCAR 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar Trans Am Plus CANAM Indy Roadster [Time Permitting] Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order NASCAR: #24 - 54 Laps (27.218 ext.) #11 - 53 (17.573) #35 - 52 (29.882) #88 - 52 (44.927) #24 - 49 (17.492) #48 - 48 (26.701) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar: #1 - 52 Laps (11.430 ext.) #6 - 52 (23.499) #5 - 52 (38.431) #88 - 51 (36.992) #36 - 50 (41.600) #65 - 48 (34.263) Trans Am Plus: #43 - 56 Laps (33.254 ext) #9 - 56 (33.629) #6 - 53 (19.341) #45 - 52 (7.541) #6 - 48 (30.954) #47 - 47 (41.423) CANAM: #59 - 60 Laps (11.512 ext) #22 - 60 (34.243) #11 - 60 (36.842) #7 - 59 (37.554) #33 - 56 (45.887) #8 - 54 (20.129) [foogallery id="38106"] Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 5
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      MiAMiA

    • Welcome to The Lane Art thanks for adding this page for me, tonight I tracked down the download from the 2015 blog I ran and it contains pictures of the build process for The Lane and also predecessor tracks.   So that will be my material source to start off. The first question might be how did I come up with the name.  Not too far along the build process Art asked me “so what are you going to name it?”.  I thought about it and the next time we met I said it’s called “The Lane”.  Why?  Well my lifelong English soccer [football for the purists] team is Tottenham Hotspur.  The stadium that they played at was called White Hart Lane which was affectionately referred to by supporters as “The Lane”.  To me it implies racing connotations so it seemed a natural choice to call the track that for a number of reasons. So what does it look like?

      Started by: DBDB in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 5
    • 4
    • 1 month ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1965 Impala Super Sport This pre-painted and fully assembled static model came from a Group25 flea market. It was a quick test to see how these large cars would run at Nova Ridge. It was quickly turned into a slot car test bed. My humble apologies. The paint is ugly. But it passed the test. With the slot car test a complete success. It was time to freshen up the body. Off with the old paint. A full interior made of paper is next. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

  •  

Viewing 100 topics - 201 through 300 (of 838 total)
1 2 3 4 … 7 8 9