Forums Topics with most replies

Viewing 100 topics - 101 through 200 (of 838 total)
    • Topic
    • Voices
    • Replies
    • Last Post
    • Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 10
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Chaparral 2D If I could have a race car on the street. This would be it. Nothing nicer looking to me than a Chaparral 2D. I was fortunate enough to find an old beat up and badly sun-baked Strombecker body at the last Group25 model show/swap meet. First thing to do is to disassemble the parts. The body is in rough shape. Full of scratches, and lots of faded plastic. The underside shows how badly discoloured the body is. Choosing a colour was easy. Out of all my cars so far, Tamiya Candy Lime Green is still the favorite. I'll let other club members fight over the white cars, and main liveries. I prefer to be different. Now to choose a motor, gear ratio, and wheels/tires. I hope to eventually build 3 of these Chaparrals. Two more are on order with D'Art Hobbies. Those will be way easier to acquire. Thank you kindly Art.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 10
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford Escort Mk1 with KRZ chassis Not sure what forum sub group to post in but this seemed most appropriate.  This car started out as a circa 1990s model.  A friend of mine then painted and decaled it several years ago, I fitted a PCS plastic chassis, Pendle wheels but was never happy with it until a Ken's KRZ chassis arrived. Finished (almost) car below. One the moderator approves I will show the chassis build.

      Started by: DBDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 2
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • January 16, 2016 – The Rock Classic Stock Car (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Race Results 1. Kevin - 81 Laps (10.173 ext.) 2. Art - 80 (8.211) 3. Mike V. - 77 (19.382) 4. Devan - 76 (12.201) 5. Frank - 75 (20.427) 6. MiA - 72 (11.353) 7. Jim O. - 71 (18.785) 8. Bob - 50 (65.913) Classic LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Race Results 1. Kevin - 92 Laps (12.590 ext.) 2. Art - 90 (9.175) 3. Devan - 86 (12.822) 4. Frank - 86 (22.863) 5. Mike V. - 85 (21.317) 6. Jim M. - 83 (10.071) 7. Bob - 83 (13.562) 8. MiA - 83 (18.335) 9. Jim O. - 81 (14.519) Group C/IMSA (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Kevin - 73 Laps (9.934 ext.) 2. Art - 73 (13.111) 3. Devan - 69 (22.494) 4. Mike V. - 68 (15.433) 5. Bob - 67 (10.348) 6. MiA - 66 (2.944) 7. Frank - 66 (9.793) 8. Jim O. - 66 (16.298) 9. Jim M. - 65 (8.060) 3.0L Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Kevin - 70 Laps (8.106 ext.) 2. Art - 70 (14.838) 3. Bob - 68 (16.195) 4. Jim M. - 65 (18.219) 5. MiA - 62 (11.089) 6. Mike V. - 61 (6.004) 7. Frank - 61 (6.245) 8. Devan - 60 (12.185) 9. Jim O. - 58 (15.935) A fun day of racing again at The Rock! Thank you for hosting Kevin! Cheers to everyone who could make it out to race! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 6
    • 9
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Your Guide and Tongue – Limiting Over-Rotation Fabricating the tongue that will hold your guide of choice should follow several basic principles, one of which is that travel or rotation should be limited either by the just the shape of the leading edges of your tongue or by adding stops. If you allow excessive rotation then you risk allowing your model to rotate well beyond the useful range of performance and either wedging it at a 90 degree angle which becomes a hazard to others or worse yet allowing it to travel in the reverse direction. Be sure to limit the rotation of your guide to just 45 degrees each way by shaping your tongue into a triangle or soldering stops in place depending on the style of guide. If your car is sliding more than 25 degrees from the direction of travel then it is already out of control and if it rotates well beyond that then a properly set up guide stop will at least force the guide (and your model) out of the slot, removing power and allowing it to slide to the gutter and usually out of harms way. In a recent race one car which allowed the guide to over rotate by at least 180 degrees repeatedly wedged itself sideways, blocking the track and creating a hazard for others at numerous locations around the track. Limiting the rotation of your guide will not only increase the life of your model but also the lives of the models of those who race with you.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

    • 3
    • 9
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 9
    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 9
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • New Scratch32 Classifieds Area We now have a FREE classifieds area on Scratch32! Just click on 'Classifieds' in our top menu to see what is for sale (or wanted to buy). Or select 'Add a listing' from the 'Classifieds' drop down menu to post your ad right away! Users with a Scratch32 account can now post ads containing detailed descriptions and pictures of items they wish to sell privately for FREE. These ads can be read by anyone, including those without an account. [So you can post an ad and then link it anywhere else.] It is also easy for every user to manage their ads. All ads expire in 60 days. There are just three limitations: Only model slot car related content is permitted; No junk - only items of quality that you would or have used yourself; No retail sales or ads for inventories of items. Scratch32 will reserve the right to remove any ad(s) that do not comply.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

    • 5
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • D'Art BRM 578 The Hot Rod Garage was open for business today. I need to solder a pinion gear. Then the motor can be glued in place and wired. It took a lot of extra sanding to get the chassis to fit the back of the body. I had to install the bearings on the inside because the flanges were in the way. I hope to have it running later today sometime. Very little room for the rear body post so it had to be drilled offset. Everything is a super tight fit at the back of the car. But it all fits. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Airfix MGB Sports model I bought this kit at the Torcan model show. The kit dates back to 1967. Nice to find an old gem like this. Worth doing the build. I hope to have it finished by the weekend and race it at the Dale in just under 2-weeks. SP-slow class. Ken  

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 9
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • D'Art Porsche 550 Spyder I painted this car last July. The body should be safe to handle by now. Someone suggested I expand my build threads so others can learn how to duplicate my mistakes. Careful what you wish for.   I measured the wheelbase and mapped out the chassis. Then I installed axle spacers on all 4-corners to help figure out the track width as well as center the chassis to the body when I glue in the body posts. I will remove the rear axle spacers after cutting the axles to length on final assembly. The front axle spacers remain in place to keep the independent wheels centered. 5mm spacing per corner was just right for this combination of parts. The chassis lays down nicely in the body. The tires are touching the inside of the top of the fenders at this point. But avoid the sides of the fenders. The build is self-slamming. I used to scratch my head on how to figure out the length of the posts. Toothpicks are a handy measuring device. I'm looking forward to seeing this car run. This will be the lowest car I've ever built. If this car runs half as good as the RS61? It will be a blast to drive! :yahoo:

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 9
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser".

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 9
    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • 1963 Thunderbird This is a 1/32 scale Gunze Sangyo model kit.  I had never heard of these model kits until I saw three models that Ken had built a few months ago.  I was inspired by the quality of the parts and the fine details incorporated in this kit and I always loved the look of the Thunderbird.  The model falls into the new category of Boulevard Cruisers. A special thanks to Ken who assisted with the chassis build and was a great painting coach. The model comes with a back seat and roof.  I preferred the look of the convertible with two seats and head rests. The BWA Scan motor is glued to the chassis using epoxy in an anglewinder configuration.  Geared 14 pinion x 30 spur gear. Here is the model with a headless driver.  I considered installing a female as the pilot in this model but didn't have a usable torso with bust, therefore A street version pilot without a Helmut will be installed.  The kit comes with two different sets of chrome wheels, I carved out the inserts and will be using them to finish this model. Very pleased with how well this car runs.  I think the headless driver would have been pulled over for high speed driving if the cops weren't in lockdown mode ;-). Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • The 1954 Pegaso Z102 Cabriolet Saoutchik 2a Serie Street The Spanish company Pegaso is well-known for its trucks, busses and tractors but many people don't know that for a period of 7 years, the marque took a jaunt into the world of sportscar building – resulting in this, the Pegaso Z-102. This beautiful little car is the only Saoutchik Cabriolet Pegaso Z-102 Series II ever made, the coachwork on the body is jaw-dropping from every angle and the factory model was fitted with a 165hp, 2,814 cc quad-overhead camshaft V-8 with a 2-barrel Weber carburettor implies that it also has the legs to make it a hell of a fun drive. It was decided that the chassis, drivetrain and engine would all be built in house by Pegaso and then the rolling units would be shipped off to coachbuilders to have bodies fitted – in the tradition of pre-WWII automakers. This one-off Z-102 Series II Cabriolet was built by Saoutchik and was arguably the most beautiful of the 88 or so cars ever made by the company. In 2013 this model went for $700,000 USD at auction. Cut and paste this link on your browser to view it.   https://youtu.be/S1R2KPRz_B8 Some links with information and photos https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Paris_-_Retromobile_2014_-_Pegaso_Z-102_Série_II_cabriolet_-_1954_-_001.jpg https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Pegaso_Z-102 THIS BUILD The body of this model is from the Pegaso Collection by Top Slot.  It's a highly detailed & finished resin body with a production run of only 300 worldwide.  The model came with an MRRC Seabring chassis which didn't work very well with this heavy 50+ gram resin body.  I replaced the original chassis with a custom aluminum chassis and used my Dremel tool to carve out a lot of excess resin material under the hood, to give this model a chance at being a decently performing slot car.   The following are some photos of the model and the aluminum chassis.  White wall tires are Dart tires.      

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 9
    • 1 year ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • 2016 2.4h @ The Ring Looking forward to next weeks event. In an attempt to look like a team, two Porsche's, Shell and F.A.T. Turbo sponsorship. Slightly different shades of red?? I think the Fortuna car is an earlier model. Curious to see how it runs.:yahoo: MiA

      Started by: MiAMiA in: R32

    • 5
    • 8
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Upcoming ’70/’71 Targa Florio Not sure where to put this as there does not seem to be an 'Upcoming Events' Forum, so 'here' it is. Looks like another great event coming up soon, the '70/'71 Targa Florio!! Authentic livery specific!! An era when some of my favourite cars (Alfa's and Porsche's, big surprise there) and drivers (Vic Elford, Jo Siffert, Brian Redman, Masten Gregory, Pedro Rodriguez, Jo Bonnier, Mike Parkes, ..... ) were dominating. (Not showing my age am I??) To that end, so far I've one of each, the #20 Porsche 908/3 driven by Elford/Herrmann (what a great livery for that car) and the #2 Alfa T33/3 driven by Adamich/Lennep to a 2nd place in 1971. (Red, but what else for a factory Alfa) The Porsche is a basically stock Fly with gear and tires, very nice to drive but a bit limited by it's motor! The Alfa is a great car -GLH- and if Mr. 2.4 doesn't have an appropriate car perhaps he will race it for me!!?? See you all there.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: R32

    • 3
    • 8
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 V – Spa-Lyons – January 3, 2018 – Ringing in the New Year at Spa! After a long hiatus, 5 fickle fingers of fate returned to Spa on January 3rd 2018. Pedigrees and pedicures were de rigueur, as they should be at a Spa session. Alas, the Greektown customs agents delayed the arrival of 1 intrepid racer, suspected of travelling with a formerly suspect controller. Nastycab rumbl'd 'N'rubbed the 1st clash of the evening, and the good ol' boys had a Hee Haw of a time. Now to them thar pictures      

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: R32

    • 3
    • 8
    • 1 month ago

      MiAMiA

    • Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking.   Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E   Thanks to Art for his great photos!    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 8
    • 6 years ago

      JoeJoe

    • Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 8
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Indianapolis 500 Event With the upcoming Group 25 show now is a good time to give some notice and canvass interest for this variant of open wheel racing - like Ringwood and The Coppa - we can start with one class - the iconic front engine models from the '50's and '60's... and perhaps establish other classes covering earlier/later years or configurations depending on interest - actual liveries raced only (but number may be changed) and motor must be in a front motor configuration... motor will likely be restricted to either a BWNC1 or a BWMS050 unless there is interest in an unlimited motor designation... ...please give us your thoughts and suggestions either in person (preferred) or online here.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 3
    • 8
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 65 Mustang 2+2 My very first thread was February 2018. Before I knew how to scratch-build, I posted a pic of an Eldon Shelby GT350 that I put together using an old Hornsby plastic chassis. It ran like... an old Hornsby plastic chassis. What a surprise. You only get what you invest. It was unrealistic to hope for more. It was time to re-visit the old Mustang idea. But with a fresh start. This is an AMT static kit I painted at the cottage. This chassis was going to hang out more than any other on this car forcing me to re-invent the back section. It's not perfect. But it's an improvement.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 8
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1936 Auto Union Type C Hopefully this will get finished in time for the next race. This car was painted at the last paint workshop. Then stripped and repainted. Second time was the charm. Quite the challenge to fit an aluminum chassis under this body.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 8
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Cooper Ford T61 With nothing on the workbench. Time to get started on something new specifically for the 1960-1965 SCCA series. I purchased this body kit from Professor Motor and somehow managed to get most of it completed a little at a time between all the other cars I've built. The last thing to do was to make a chassis. Not what I would call the right order to do things, but it is what it is. Making the chassis first would avoid scratching the paint. But that would take patience. Whatever that is... A BWNC1 was supposed to go in this car at first. Then I ran into some clearance problems with the larger motor. A BWMS050 should hopefully do the job. I know what I'm doing over the holidays... Assembly. I would like to wish the entire group at S32/R32 a very Merry Christmas! Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 8
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1964 Rover BRM I got very lucky in finding this kit. They simply aren't available anymore. The real cars were gas-turbine powered test-beds. Very strange car. The first step to planning out the chassis: What is the wheelbase? Using tires that are too large just for the purpose of measuring the wheelbase can reduce room for error. I happen to have a pair of old 17" inch Slot.It wheels/tires that were the wrong choice for another car. Perfect! Slide the body into the wheels/tires until the wheel-wells of the body centers the tires. (this one's easy because the wheel wells are round) Carefully slide the body away making sure not to move the wheels. I measure the left side of the axle holes on both wheels to get the wheelbase. In this case it's 73.30mm. It doesn't matter what the actual finished tire diameter is. The wheels will be perfectly centered in the wheel well. The old 17" inch wheels go back on the shelf to measure the next car.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 8
    • 11 months ago

      AvatarGI

    • The only road-legal Porsche 917 in the world? Count Gregorio Rossi (Martini & Rossi) was once photographed driving his road legal Porsche 917 from Stuttgart to Paris. That finally explains why Fly made this car. I've always thought it was interesting, But never knew it actually existed.   The body has an external ID number making it legal for R32 Classic LeMans. The licence plate counts as a number. The last 2-digits are #37.

      Started by: KenKen in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 3
    • 8
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Porsche 550 Coupe Guten aben  meine freunde, Porsche 550 Coupe reveal... :>) D'art kit, KRZ chassis(thank you Ken), Vanski motor, 10X23, RS slot wheels, D7's front, D8's rear...Fantasy livery, my home made decals(except Marchal headlamps). Car is smooth(read NOT a lot of speed), and apparently, the Lyons engineering team,  in an effort to reduce 'unnecessary ballast' , elected to include brakes! Again, 3/30 rule invoked....I tried for hours to get the windshield/window for to sit just right, but $#@! I couldn't get it to sit perfectly, went with best overall fit...perhaps I'd bent it, did the best I could..will continue to learn(I hope!) But, it does look nice meandering Spa...On to the next project..

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 8
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Alfa Romeo at the 1954 Carrera Panamericana Alfa Romeo at the 1954 Carrera Panamericana - by MiA - As Art was kind enough to set up a blog for my meanderings I felt I should give it a go. What to write about, how long should it be? Perhaps I could use a blog as an excuse to dig a little more into subjects I was interested in, and if anyone else learned a bit, then so much the better. Of course the first one would have to be a subject near and dear to my heart (and so as if you didn’t know) Alfa Romeos! But what Alfa story? As the company with the oldest racing history there are so many stories. So, where to start?? Lets just choose a convenient and timely one, the upcoming Carrera Panamericana proxy race. Over the five years that the race was held there were many Alfas to write about, both factory and private entries.  For a first go lets just use the alternate photo posted for the upcoming proxy race. Easy, a bit obscure, quite pedestrian and definitely all Alfa!! I’m sure Art put it in for my benefit!! [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="911"] Monumento de la Revolition[/caption] A little bit of background on the Carrera Panamericana first. In 1950, Mexico became the first Latin-American country to complete its part of the Pan-American Highway. To celebrate this achievement, the national government decided to organize a five-day race along the new road. It consisted of a total of 9 stages and ran from Ciudad Juárez on the US border to the Guatemalan border. The original version of the Carrera Panamericana was held from 1950 to 1954 and during its short existence it developed a reputation for being one of the most dangerous races in the world. Due to the start line being close to the US, most of the cars and drivers for the first 1950 race came from the US. The first winners were an American team of Hershel McGriff and Ray Elliott in an Oldsmobile 88. From the second edition onwards, the route was switched, going from the southern to the northern border. Over the ensuing years competition grew and attracted more teams from abroad. Along with most American manufacturers and many ‘specials’, Ferrari, Lancia, Porsche, Borgward, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, OSCA, Jaguar, Mercedes, Talbot Lago, Gordini, VW and Pegaso all sent or supported teams headlined with seasoned road, track and rally drivers. Of particular interest here is the 1954 race and the picture used for the alternate in the upcoming proxy races announcement. (Hopefully Alfas from other years will follow in later posts). 1954 was the last of the original races and the picture was taken in front of the Monumento de la Revolition in Mexico City, probably sometime after the third day of racing or just before the start of the fourth day. The Monumento de la Revolition commemorates the independence of Mexico from Spain. It is located in Plaza de la República, near to the heart of major thoroughfares in downtown Mexico City. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="511"] Monumento de la Revolition[/caption] The structure was initially intended to be at the centre of the Federal Legislature and the first stone was laid in 1910 during the centennial celebrations of Independence. The project was not finished due to the Mexican Revolutionary War and after several regime changes in 1913 it was cancelled and abandoned. It’s steel inner structure stood rusting for more than twenty years. Later it was proposed to convert the abandoned structure into a monument to the heroes of the Mexican Revolution. After this was approved, the structure began its makeover. Four stone sculpture groups were designed and built over the existing cupola structure. The structure also functions as a mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution of 1910. It was eventually completed around 1938. For the 1954 running there were thirteen Alfas entered. Eleven participated and 2 were listed as Did Not Arrive. No. Drivers Entrant Make Type Model Engine Gr. 251 Sanesi / Cagna Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 252 Velazquez / Ruiz Atoyac Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 254 Mancini / Mijares Anaconda Nacional Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 255 Carini / Sambrotta Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 256 Mantovani / Chiappa Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 257 Solana / Leguizamo Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 258 Pedro J. Llano Pedro J. Llano Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 260 Guillermo G. Airaldi Guillermo Airaldi Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 265 Cerezo / Palacios David Cerezo Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 267 Della Favera / Campigotto Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 268 Bonini / Zanavoni Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 And entered but did not arrive: 264 Pedro J. Llano Pedro J. Llano Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 266 Enrique Fluchaire Enrique Fluchaire Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 Clearly shown in the picture are four Alfa Romeo 1900 Ti cars. Quite possibly these are four of the five cars entered by Finmeccanica. The 5th Finmeccanica entered car is possibly the car to the right in the photograph. Like many of the early automobile manufacturers Alfa Romeo had gone through turbulent times since it’s inception. Ugo Gobbato the head of Alfa Romeo in 1945 had been shot and killed by an unknown gunman as he cycled to work. Thus after WW2 Alfa thus found itself without a leader and with most of its factories destroyed by the war. A new chairman, Pasquale Gallo, was appointed to demilitarize Alfa Romeo, and responsibility for design was handed to the engineer Orazio Satta Puliga. He made significant contributions towards re-launching Alfa Romeo into a new era. After introducing several upscale models based on pre war models, in 1950 he introduced the Alfa Romeo 1900, a family car that would be capable of winning races. Modern and practical, Puliga considered the 1900 to be the ultimate choice for the middle class. It offered great performance and a heritage of brilliant sporting achievements at a competitive price. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="781"] Alfa Romeo 1900 Sedan (Berlina)[/caption] The Alfa Romeo 1900 was produced from 1950 to 1959. It was an important development for Alfa, being it’s first car built entirely on a production line and it’s first production car without a separate chassis. The Engine was a 1.9 L DOHC Inline 4, developing 90 bhp, which was later enlarged to 2.0L It was produced in several variants, a 4-door saloon (Berlina), a 2-door coupé (Sprint) and a 2-door convertible. It was the first Alfa Romeo offered with left-hand drive. After introduction it was later offered as a 1900C(Short) and then as a 1900TI with a more powerful motor producing 100bhp. Later came Super and Super Ti versions. A total of 21,304 were built during the production run, including 17,390 of the saloons. The chassis was designed specifically to allow it to be re-bodied and several coachbuilders developed some beautiful variants, including a 4-wheel drive version (Matta) based on the 1900. Finmeccanica, the entrant of the cars we are interested in was established in 1948 as part of the efforts by Italy's government-controlled industrial holding company IRI (Istituto per la Ricostruzione Industriale) to restructure Italy’s devastated industrial and engineering sector after the war. IRI had itself taken over effective control of Alfa around 1928 when Nicola Romeo left the company. After it’s establishment Finmeccanica effectively became Alfa Romeo’s parent company until it sold Alfa to the Fiat Group in 1986. The 1954 race was run from south to north over 8 stages and 3,070 kilometres (1,910 mi). 150 cars started the race, and 85 finished all 8 stages. The European stock car class was won by Consalvo Sanesi and Giuseppe Cagna in Alfa Romeo #251 finishing 15th overall. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="438"] 1900 Motor[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="414"] Finned Aluminium Brake Drum[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="464"] Finishing Line[/caption] Other Alfa finishers were car # 256 driven by Mantovani / Chiappa finishing 18th overall, car # 267 driven by Della Favera / Campigotto finishing 19th overall, car # 255 driven by Carini / Sambrotta finishing 20th overall, car # 252 driven by Velazquez / Ruiz finishing 30th overall. Car # 268 driven by Bonini / Zanavoni was a DNF due to an accident. All considered, an excellent showing for Alfa. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="435"] Consalvo Sanesi and Giuseppe Cagna[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="370"] Carini/Sambrota in car #255[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="418"] The Velazquez / Ruiz car[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="412"] The Velazquez / Ruiz car[/caption] There are several good smaller scale models of most of the cars that participated in the 1954 race, but I haven’t found a 1/32 scale kit that could be used as the basis for an S32 car …yet. [foogallery id="33634"]

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

    • 5
    • 8
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Paint Spree I just got back from the cottage, and painted a body or two while I was there. The first was a flat black Fly truck with a tobacco livery. A crappy colour with an undesirable livery is great excuse to paint it. Taking it apart was interesting. At least the weather was nice. Then I painted a few HO bodies. Between the truck and the HO cars, I went through three cans of clear-coat and ran out before I finished painting. Three bodies still need clear-coat. Practise is good.

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 6
    • 8
    • 11 months ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • DArt Auto Union Type D This is the season to paint cars. Yesterday was another perfect paint day. So I kept the momentum going. This colour is Tamiya TS-7 racing white. It will match my type C. I can officially start a team. "Club Weisse". No clear-coat required for this lovely pastel colour.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 8
    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

    • NSR 917 White Kit FINALLY got around to finishing a 'White Kit' I painted and mostly decaled a long time ago...was in the "To be completed" group(along with many others) :>) Anyway, done...Took a while to configure a Pioneer driver as the NSR pilot just doesn't look right proportion, but it is a very nice kit. Will no doubt be waaay underpowered in the 'unlimited VLM' class, but so be it.    

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 6
    • 8
    • 4 months ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Mini Infinity Routed HO Track Art was kind enough to accept the challenge to create a new HO track on a 3' foot by 7' foot base. It's a very cool layout. It's made of 3/8" inch MDF. The copper tape was custom spaced for HO cars. Variable power supply 0-30 volts - 10 amps. Track-Mate driver stations so Professor Motor 1/32 controllers can be used. Braids need to be installed on every car. The Thunderjet guide pins need to be sleeved to increase the diameter. I have mostly silicone HO tires, so this is a dedicated silicone track.

      Started by: KenKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 4
    • 8
    • 1 month ago

      KenKen

    • 2017 Vintage GP at Mosport this weekend Anyone going to Mosport this weekend? If so the F1 Masters series will be there. Looks like about 15 vintage F1 cars from the entry list including Tyrells, Shadows, Lotii etc...don't miss the chance to do some close up research on these amazing cars from all over the world. https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.status/uidEvent/E332951C-A23B-9C37-6E286542DAB5A903#group1-642B4139-C8F7-353B-F108B5ABF23C4C69 Please note I checked the race schedule and the F1 Masters series are only running on Fri and Sat NOT Sunday. http://www.varac.ca/varac/documents/festival/2017/2017%20On%20Track%20Schedule.pdf Hope to see you there! I'll probably be camping between turn 3 and 4 if you want to stop by for a cold beverage. Look for a line of vintage street cars and I'll be near there...or wandering the paddock. Cheers Bill  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Other Local Events & Happenings

    • 4
    • 7
    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Just for fun So, just for fun, what is this type of construction called? Who developed it? Who used it? Bonus marks for major benefits and major drawbacks. More bonus marks for how some of these drawbacks were mitigated to some extent. And a guess at which car is in the photo above.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

    • 3
    • 7
    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings The key to keeping axles true to each other is in the set up. I measure and scribe everything before I start drilling. I always start with a pilot drill. It can be used to lightly poke an accurate spot indicating if you're on target. Drills are too long and flexible to check for accuracy that way. I don't need a digital readout this way and use an inexpensive $75 drill press. 

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Build It

    • 3
    • 7
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

    • 4
    • 7
    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1949 Ford Tudor in red With the Carrera Panamericana around the corner. It's time to give Fred and his blue Tudor a bit of a break. Emilio Portez Medina and Armando Rodrigues Morado, both from Mexico, are busy preparing a red 1949 Ford Tudor #119 for the next race (1950). Emilio's red Tudor has a BWNC1. Fred's blue Tudor has a BWMS050.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 7
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • D’Art Matra MS10 Most if not all Matra's were blue. This Matra found a can of Tamiya "camel yellow" and got friendly with it. The engine detail is Tamiya "semi-gloss black". The components at the rear have been painted with Tamiya "gloss aluminum". I still need to detail the interior, driver, engine and transmission parts. The body components snap into place nicely.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 7
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Avoiding dust in paint This is just about my bad experiences with dust. Not how to apply paint. There's no bigger dissapointment than leaving your paint almost perfect with the last wave of the spray can and coming back to... fresh paint covered with dust or pet hair. I had to sit back and think of the many possible reasons that could affect the final finish. Any one alone could easily ruin a paint-job. 1) Dog 2) Cat 3) Shop tools (bandsaw, belt sander) 4) Forced air heat/AC 5) My wife doing things around the house such as laundry 6) My own clothes I created a system to try and combat every possible angle I could think of. This is starting out with a body that's already prepared for paint. The basement kitchen fan is used to evacuate the fumes. The entire area around and behind the oven-top is lined with cardboard and black garbage bags. Now I can explain a process that seems to work for this household. 1) I start the basement kitchen fan around 10PM. Throw a paint can on a stirring device. Then go upstairs closing the door behind me to leave the basement undisturbed until midnight (No pets allowed). The kitchen fan has time to remove ambient dust around the paint area. 2) I turn the heat/AC off around 11PM. 3) At around midnight the rest of the house goes to bed and I slowly and carefully make my way to basement closing the door behind me to keep the pets upstairs. I walk very slowly to prevent stirring dust up from the floor. 4) I head to the landry room first to put on a fresh T-shirt and jeans. Pet hair is the worst! 5) I give the body a fresh wash. Then rinse in filtered water to avoid residue. Dry the body with a dust-free towel. It's ready for paint. 6) Heat the can that's been stirring for the last 2-hours in hot water for 2-minutes. It's ready to paint. I paint the body with 4-coats using a 1-minute timer between coats. After 4-minutes of painting I slowly walk back upstairs, close the basement door, and watch TV for an hour. After an hour I turn the heat/AC back on and go check the paint. Hopefully I go to bed with a smile. I installed exhaust outlets on my belt sander and bandsaw that fit the shop-vac to help keep the residual shop dust down. But prefer not to cut or sand anything the day I paint a body. I wish everyone the best of luck in finding your own way to paint without that dreaded dust thing. :good:  

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 4
    • 7
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts.  Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair.  Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes.  Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires.  

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 7
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • HOT ROD – 1932 Plymouth I bought this kit from Ken a couple of months ago, a perfect candidate for a Hot Rod build.  Inspired by Ken's candy apply red, I painted the car gold first, then red to get the candy apple finish. The body sits on an aluminium chassis, that I custom built. This is Lindberg Kit no. 2143 The plastic model motor was taken from another Lindberg kit and glued to the front of the chassis.  SCC steel wheels up front and wider 14" x 8mm rear MRRC wheels.  The rear hubs are also taken from another Lindberg kit and required some sanding to size. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to enlarge the rear wheel wells.  It allowed me to lower the body over the rear wheels. I cut the front side quarter panels to expose the model motor that I painted and glued to the chassis.   The white glue is still drying on the front windshield, once dry it will be less visible. I will be adding a number of additional details and will go over the body and complete a few touch ups. I can say that this is a very nice handling car, a pleasure to drive. Thanks for looking.   P.S. If you are thinking of building a car but keep putting it off because you believe that your building ability falls short of your expectations or standards, I say forge ahead.  Expect to make mistakes-you may scrap a few chassis before you get it right but just keep pushing ahead until you finish building your car.  You will learn from your build and will take that knowledge to your next build which will be easier...  Don't be afraid to begin, just do it and stop procrastinating.  Your experience will yield you a model you can drive at one of the upcoming events, and that will be very rewarding.            

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 7
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • Nova Gasser The gasser class may open up the field to some new body styles. This just came out as a current release from Atlantis. I was a bit concerned about the stock hood for a gasser. But the problem was already solved. There was no mention of this bonus scoop anywhere on the box. Nice surprise. The examples.

      Started by: KenKen in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

    • 3
    • 7
    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 XLVIII FINAL RACE RESULTS Monday, April 18, 2022 @ Spa Lyons Classes: Hot Rod (HR) 1950's Sportscar (50SP) Classic LeMans (CLM) 1970 Grand Prix (70GP) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. Two marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. Hot Rod (HR): #30 - 62 Laps (11.702 ext.) #24 - 59 (4.001) #2 - 59 (14.045) #50 - 54 (14.661) #69 - 50 (28.055) 1950's Sportscar (50SP): #47 - 63 Laps (20.077 ext.) #10 - 60 (10.621) #7 - 60 (23.617) #55 - 57 (14.495) #36 - 48 (21.475) #22 - DNS Classic LeMans (CLM): #25 - 71 Laps (14.805 ext.) #23 - 69 (18.195) #35 - 66 (8.624) #21 - 65 (11.603) #3 - 55 (8.861) 1970 Grand Prix (70GP): #34 - 70 Laps (12.665 ext.) #17 - 70 (16.697) #12 - 65 (9.082) #4 - 61 (13.257) #10 - 57 (28.232) #7 - DNF [foogallery id="25926"]

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: R32

    • 6
    • 7
    • 1 month ago

      JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots

    • Latest rendering Latest build from Spa Skunkwerks, who knew same in German as in English! :>) No special build, just FLY white kit 908/3, all my home made decals save for rondels...Accompanied in pics by prior ventures(not posted) Not perfect, need to perfect burnishing tape, negate 'bleed', but I think it passes the 3/30 litmus test, 3 feet away and 30KM LOL!! And evidently, I am driving it! Sadly, nowhere near performance of others built, have to spend some time(not too much) to figure out...

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 7
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarGI

    • La Carrera Panamericana XIII Share your entry details including photographs within this topic thread by replying. NOTE: to register you must fill in the online model registration form located within the events calendar. Thank you for sharing!!!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 7
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • The Zing A basement track (no matter how small) to test, run and possibly race a Mini Z in the comfort of ones' own home is a rather nice luxury... so the project begins... let's see what can reasonably fit into the space I have right now... if testing proves that it is enough then a more permanent solution can be pursued... Just using EVA tiles with generic square corner foam barriers doesn't turn my crank - the track, just like the models on it, must have curb appeal. Let's get going with a paper template to test with and see what's possible. [caption id="attachment_42376" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Laying out the basic footprint using scrap paper.[/caption]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: The Zing

    • 3
    • 7
    • 3 months ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • January 20, 2016 – Spa-Lyons NASCAR (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Art - 69 Laps (14.188 ext.) 2. Drew - 69 (19.038) 3. John B. - 65 (7.791) 4. Mike V. - 62 (12.548) 5. Frank - 61 (11.292) 6. Bill - 61 (23.671) 7. MiA - 56 (10.410) Sportscar (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Drew - 63 Laps (15.345 ext.) 2. Art - 61 (8.293) 3. John B. - 61 (15.854) 4. Mike V. - 59 (9.537) 5. Bill - 59 (18.500) 6. Frank - 56 (11.890) 7. MiA - 50 (13.346) CAN AM (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Drew - 75 Laps (10.615 ext.) 2. Art - 74 (6.699) 3. John B. - 74 (14.431) 4. Mike V. - 72 (13.935) 5. Bill - 69 (13.847) 6. Frank - 68 (12.991) 7. MiA - 65 (17.554) 1970's Grand Prix (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Bill - 70 Laps (16.554 ext.) 2. Art - 70 (16.739) 3. Drew - 69 (4.734) 4. Mike V. - 68 (9.309) 5. John B. - 67 (10.459) 6. Frank - 65 (16.598) 7. MiA - 55 (14.355) Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 5
    • 6
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • An ALLARD – KURTIS SPECIAL? PANAMERICANA ? An ALLARD - KURTIS SPECIAL - PANAMERICANA ?   Fantasy . Hi guy's, I'm well new here and came across some nice coloured photo's of A K Miller's "Iron Horse" and also noticed in my book, that Tony Bettenhausen had run a Kurtis - Chrysler in the 1953 La Carrera. Now I don't know of any 1/32 kit's for the above BUT I do know George Turner Model's produces a very nice Allard J 2, that I fancy getting. (Big smile). So a few pic's off Google and maybe an up-date of a build in 12 month's time. The GTM in it's wooden 'buck' format. The Resin model, with co-driver. The Inspiration. A Kurtis - Lincoln 1954   Although there are quite a few photo's of Tony Bettenhausen's Kurtis - Chrysler # 21 on Google, I was unable to 'lift' any.  

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 6
    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Coppa D’oro Trials Some time was found to run trials for the new Scratch32 Golden Era Pre-War models - and so the Coppa D'oro was born.[foogallery id="8039"] After nearly a century it is never too late...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 6
    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead.  :good: The assembly begins... Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • SCC Canada Decals #$@!ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Hello lads, had to re-number a car for pending event, had purchased SCC 'White' numerals, first time using the product, OMFG, I'm sure some within the GTA heard some unsavory language last evening... Took 14 of them to successfully transfer 3!!! They kept disintegrating, separating, no matter duration of time in water nor temperature. Curious as to whether anyone else has used (tried to)? If so, any success, what's your secret? :negative: :negative:

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Decals

    • 6
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarJimbo

    • 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up This low cost ARII Owner's Club model kit found its way to my hobby bench and was adapted/upgraded into a 'low power' track utility vehicle for The Ring. Background on the box reads: Honda was established in 1948, and since then, it kept introducing a lot of famous motor bikes. The model "Honda T360" was the first car that Honda produced. It was called "Sport Truck" rather than "Light Truck". It was mounted with a 354 cc, 4-carb HOHC engine, and could make the maximum 30 hp. Two months later, "Honda Sport 500" was marketed. It is tiny (but tall): body measures approx. 92mm x 40mm; front and rear track of 39mm; wheelbase of approx. 63mm with guide post set approx. 66mm from rear axle; and weighs approx. 61.2mm (complete). I kept it cheap by using a DArt guide, BWMS050 motor, 8T BWA pinion, scavenged Scalextric 28T crown gear, piano wire for axles and 1/8" brass tubing in place of bushings. In its finished form it is smooth and quiet but for my taste would still benefit with a 10T pinion - which it may get yet - time will tell... Since pictures are 'worth a 1000 words' here are some pictures of this build. You will note I first planned to use styrene clamps to fix the rear of the body to the rear axle sleeves but bailed on that plan for a more reliable method. A rear frame made from piano wire covered by tissue paper soaked in a solution of H2O and white glue (as suggested by f1nutz) plus DArt fog lamps were later added to this model. Several parts were extensively modified as the pictures indicate. I used navy blue tent repair tape to cover the sides of exposed motor and some scrap patio umbrella fabric (painted with a dark wash) courtesy of Porsche911 as mud flaps to cover the crown gear. [foogallery id="10642"] It is fun building something that isn't meant to race... Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • D’Art Shadow DN1 With the Ringwood around the corner. I have race classes to fill. I painted this lovely body last July. Time to get the chassis started. With the tires glued and trued. I can start to map out the chassis. Anyone need chassis plans for a DN1? :mail: The driver and helmet were easy enough to complete. Two-part helmet and visor are a nice touch. Chassis is ready for drilling and cutting. :good:

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • McLaren M20 I thought I had built cars for every class. Turns out my CanAm Lola Mk2 is from Art's collection. I have yet to build a CanAm car myself. There is a Carrera McLaren M20 collecting dust on a shelf that could use a serious upgrade. The livery is from 1974. Driver: Helmut Kelleners The original plastic chassis did not survive the bandsaw for some strange reason. The old parts go into a junk box. The side body-panels are much lighter now. Each side panel is made up of three parts. One screw on each side keeps the assemblies secure. The body is ready for a new scratch chassis. The first step is to re-read the rules for CanAm in order to choose the right wheels, tires, etc...

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed...  The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Ferrari 158 This is the Dart kit Ferrari 158. This particular model is of the winning car as driven in the 1964 Italian GP by John Surtees; #2.  JS was also the winner of the F1 Championship in 1964. The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and some brass.  Bearings were used in the rear, a square brass tube was used to support the front axel.  Silver foil packaging material from a pharmaceutical product was used to cover the top of the front axel and cut in the shape of the front assembly.  The same foil was used to create the floor in the cockpit. This model is built as a 1.5L GP and is powered by a BWA slim motor, geared 10 pinion by 23 offset crown. A single brass screw is used to secure the body to the chassis.  The body fits snugly in place with the rear assembly around the motor preventing any movement in the rear. A black twist tie was used to hold up the bottom of the motor between the two rear exhaust pipes-glued in place to bottom of motor and exhaust pipes.  Two polished aluminium extension pipes were glued to the ends of the exhaust pipes that came with the kit.  The motor that came with the kit was modified to fit together and two piano wires were inserted into drilled holes and glued into both sides of the motor to hold it in place.  The other ends of the piano wire were soldered onto the rear upright assembly.  The motor is attached to the chassis, the body floats freely above it but there is virtually no movement as the body is held firmly by the single screw up front and the piano wire at the rear which connects to the rear upright assembly. After applying the decals, I brushed on a coat of future to seal the decals and give the car a glossy finish.  One drop of windex was added to my future mix to prevent yellowing down the road. My camera and lighting could be better.  This model is much more attractive in the flesh. Initial test lap results indicate that this car will be a contender.  I think there is room for improvement. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1949 Ford Tudor in orange This 1949 Lindberg Ford Tudor Coupe might be the most prolific model in this club with many fine examples.  Having built two already, I had a third kit sitting in my cabinet for about three years.  Due to an abundance of time with the shelter in place orders, I circled my wagons back to it and decided it would make a bright hot rod with a BWA slimline motor. Many thanks to Ken, who took the time to assist on this build. The BWA motor is simply glued onto the chassis with epoxy.  Gearing is 10P x 23P Looking forward to racing this model. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • HOW WE TALLY FINAL RACE RESULTS For most members, building is a work in progress and it takes time to built up a full inventory of cars to race at every event, especially with this group which has over twenty classes and counting.  Members must be encouraged to build as much as possible and allowed to race their builds as much as possible.  Having fun should always be the main driver that is given greatest weight by all. I realize this may be a controversial issue but it is not intended to be..., I am raising it only from the point of view of fairness.  Fairness is the central theme that we base all our rules on and is also the main point considered in any type of racing.  I ask that all members put on your stewards hat and consider this topic without any bias.  Assume that you are the adjudicating panel of a racing body,  your mandate is to decide what is the fair and proper course of action.  I would hope that whatever is decided by the group be applied to future events and will not have any bearing on past events. Currently, all members race the cars that they have built and registered for any particular event.  If a member has built only one car, and there are four separate races held at one event, then that member may race their only model in all four races as a separate entrant.  At present, that members best result from all four separate races with the same car will be awarded, against all the other members that have not had an opportunity to race the same car repeatedly, in multiple races.  The final result awarded to all other members is the result they achieved in only one race-their first and only race with that car. 1) Is the current award method fair to all? 2) Should we continue to award a racer on this basis or would it be more fair for each individual car to be permitted to race as many races as there are at any one event but the result awarded that car should be the result achieved from only the first race that car raced?  In other words, after the first race, the member will be allowed to race their car as often as they want in the remaining races but in terms of keeping score, that car will only be considered as a place holder after its first race, it's subsequent race result will not count in the final tally. I look forward to an open discussion on this topic.

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: R32

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special As previously announced, see attached photos of the completed model of the 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special.  This model placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500 with Jim Rathmann at the wheel. This model will be run with a custom built Aluminium chassis. The BWA ff050 motor is glued into place with epoxy as is the plastic bracket holder for the extended motor arm/shaft and pinion.  A touch of solder was applied to each side of the spring supporting the extended motor shaft. A photo of the body kit. The parts have all been painted in this photo, including the seat, driver, all silver parts and inserts.  The inserts do not fit the RS slot wheels, Dart inserts will be used instead. The wheels are RS slot 15x7mm rear and 15x5mm front.  Rear tires are the new Dart D7.5.  The trued diameter is 23.40mm for the rear and 21.2mm for the front.  Track width is 53.65mm rear and 52mm front. Thanks for looking.              

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • #40 – 1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 This build is the famous #40-1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 which has been has in progress for more than six, months due to delays with the decals arriving in a timely manner due to the pandemic.  I custom designed and printed decals for this model.  The orange section in front of the car will be painted on as it proved to be impossible to get a decals to adhere to this area in an acceptable manner. Photos of the actual car     My attempt The body has been paired with a custom built aluminium chassis - 100% built by the JMS garage.  The 21.5k Piranha motor has been glued onto the chassis in an AW configuration.  Originally I had used a 12T pinion, which was switched to 11T to get more brake. This photo with windshield and gas caps installed. Ready to race... zoom, zoom. Thanks for looking.    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Merry Christmas Everyone! Merry Christmas Everyone I hope that you are all doing well and that the Holidays give you some respite from this topsy-turvy-time. Many of you are ankle deep in new projects, that all look great by the way, and I hope to have some new stuff in the New Year to share with the group. May 2021 be a better, brighter year and give us all a chance to race together again. Cheers Steve

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

    • 5
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Ranchero Gasser ideas I've been looking into Ranchero Gasser examples online. There are differences between them depending on budget. One thing they all have in common is the front end is quite high. But the exhaust systems and gas tanks can be all over the map. Here are some examples. Front mounted tank with budget headers, and straight open carbs. Side-dump exhausts with a very cool air-scoop over a super-charger. Exhaust out the fender wells, no hood over the chrome engine, and nice white walls on the rear wheels. Tank up front and regular headers. This is a BW pic of a slightly newer model Ranchero. The thing that I noted on this gasser is the rear tires are tucked under the wheel wells. The front end is high, the back end is low compared to the cars that have the wheel wells chopped out and totally rounded. I laid this on the table for a quick look at this project. The ruler would simulate the track height. I like the side-dump exhaust myself. Maybe a nice air-scoop on the hood, and little gas tank up front?

      Started by: KenKen in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 3D Printed body’s Good morning everyone, It's been awhile since I've posted anything on the site.  I hope everyone is doing well. We can all thank JCB for this find.  Click on the link below to view a new site with 3D printed models for scratch building.  There are a few Citroen models, a Mini, a Holden, a Ford, a lotus 30, a Fiat 1600, Aston Martin DB5 and a few more... https://www.3dprintable.shop/?fbclid=IwAR27xQBEprdHvyfSQhSKX9Blg2hgX2KQ0biJseL9NFMKMYR6GPfksNH1QL0

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Bass-Seca Build Bass-Seca After who knows how many years of racing at multiple home and club tracks, my man cave has gotten a new addition built by Art! A small but exciting looking layout of approximately 44 feet for 1:32 racing with plenty of elevation changes themed after Laguna Seca's "Corkscrew". I gave my design to track builder extraordinaire Professor Tschinkel earlier this year and, thanks to Covid restrictions, he built a modular track that could be fairly quickly taken apart and reassembled. Art built the basics at his place and then disassembled it and into a VW Atlas went ALL the pieces and reassembly began at my place. Track reconstruction, lane taping, power and computer, border walls and more now done. Some detail work still to be completed but the track is now operational and the first race done with Joe Guts and I running Group 5 cars. But the track is much more fun with the slower classes! Before racing ever happened though I christened the track with laps done in remembrance, and with cars, from racers who are no longer with us. John F and Paddy you will always be remembered. (The 3rd last picture is John Flinn's MG which set identical times in both lanes) Thanks for all your work Art. It's great!

      Started by: JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 7
    • 6
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Los Angeles Slot Car Museum Greetings: I was looking at Google News and noticed a story (or paid advertisement?) in Motor Trend about the LASCM.    Thinking about my Revell Lang Cooper, Gar Vic, and Dynamic Chassis slot cars buried in a dump somewhere makes me ask "WHAT WAS I THINKING?" https://www.motortrend.com/features/los-angeles-slot-car-museum-profile

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 7
    • 6
    • 2 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Modern F1 class Thoughts have recently been exchanged at the last race about the modern F1 class. Many intersting points were made. I bought a Scalex modern F1 last Thursday night. It hit the floor twice on Saturday, and is now broken. The reason I bought it was because my other car sucks and is in need of a total rebuild. Now I have two Scalex cars in need of major repairs. I looked at Electric Dreams to see what a new Scalex car retails for. The average is $100 in US funds. There's an one ugly one in the bunch for $65 US. Many are as high as $129 to $149 just for an ordinary F1 car. Here's the car I bought last Thursday. It's available at Electric Dreams for $129 US funds.   This car below is also $129 in US funds.   While on the same site, I checked out Policar modern F1's. They start at $54.95 US for a generic coloured car.   A fully decorated car like the one below goes as high as $64.95 USD. Not all that expensive. Instead of changing everything at once and pushing everyone into totally changing cars for this class. Can we add the Policar brand to the modern F1 class? If the Policar F1 is a lot cheaper, readily available, and a slightly better platform. Everyone should have no trouble phasing out the Scalex cars on their own over time. If someone is fully dedicated to their Scalex car, and talented at tuning them. Why not keep them going too? Just some food for thought since there were a few broken F1 cars last Saturday. I'm not looking forward to fixing either of my Scalex F1's. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: R32

    • 5
    • 6
    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

Viewing 100 topics - 101 through 200 (of 838 total)