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Joe Guts will be joining us at MVL this Saturday. Accept this as his confirmation which brings the total confirmed to 6.
Yes, Scalextric has manufactured a wide range of liveries from various races such as Targa Florio, BTCC, saloon races, The Italian Job movies, etc… I’m a big fan of the Italian job movies.
There must be a good demand for them as there are three or four new liveries coming out in 2022, including a Mr. Bean car with him siting on the roof and steering the car with a broom. It wasn’t always the quickest cars that won races, Mini’s have historically been successful at upsetting more powerful cars in races.
With the addition of some weight and a BWA motor, they run well as slot cars, achieving a similar pace to our Classic Stock Car class but in a tiny package. Best results are achieved by replacing the stock front stub axels with a solid axle and independent front wheels, which also requires the addition of a B-Nova or CG slot guide holder under the chassis for additional support after shaving down the stock guide holder to allow the axle to pass over it there is only about 1mm that remains. If you enjoy racing door handle to door handle and nose to tale, you’ll enjoy this class.
At Riverhampton we begin every event with a Mini race. It’s a new (BWA) class that we all love here and everybody brings their own car.
VM – Vintage Mini’s (Modified Class)
Eligible Models: Scalextric 1959 and 1960’s Vintage Mini’s. Inline with 14k slimline motor (Morris Mini’s, Mini Cooper’s);
Stock – Body, Interior, Chassis, Glass, with modified slow slim Motor
Minimum overall weight – 70gm
Gear ratio 9 or 10 T pinion / 21 stock crown gear not to be tampered with Wheel track must be kept within the models body width, the wheels must not be visible when viewing the car from above. Typically 43.5mm wide at rear and 44.5mm wide at front.
The rules will allow you to
1) Replace stock 18k motor with 14k slimline is a must;
2) replace rear wheels or front and rear or keep all stock and just add Dart tires to rear; **
3) Replace axle and bushings;
4) Replace guide, will require a B-Nova to strengthen what remains of the guide post which will have to be cut down to about 1mm thick original material to allow solid axle to pass over using a flat guide screw;** if you replace your wheels, purchase Mini inserts from Dart for your new 13mm wheels. Also, the stock front axles are stub axles which add some complexity if you are thinking of changing the front wheels-you will need to install a CG slot (formerly B-Nova) guide holder. If you change your rear wheels you will likely have to change the axle and this will require removing the stock crown gear from the axle and installing it on your replacement axle. At this point you should replace the bushings.
Please read the rules above – they are clear.
In order to comply with the basic requirements and be compliant, you must; a) Install a BWA ff motor (10 T pinion recommended); b) add weight to get the car to 70 grams minimum which will improve handleing; c) install Dart rear tires; d) basic blue printing to ensure there is no drag or rubbing anywhere (this is not required by the rules). No need to do anything else. The car will run well and depending on your driving ability could be competitive. It might be best to complete steps a to d first, and if you are happy with your cars performance you will not need to do anything more.
However, based on our testing and race results; if you want to build a car that will always challenge for a podium, in addition to the above; you should remove the stock front stub axles and install a solid front axle with independent wheel rotation. Once you exert the effort to install a solid front axle, it is recommended that you replace your guide and install four new steel wheels, replace rear axle and install brass bushings to the rear. The rules will allow you to do everything described above.
The layout looks fabulous! .. a cross between the Ring and MVL. Nice build Dart.
It has maximized your space and should be a lot of fun to race on. Look forward to seeing it completed and turning some laps.
Zoom zoom
Some possible names
Circuit de Miramar
Corsa otto (Racing eight-Italian)
East Side 88
KZ 88
… a combination of any of these
Thanks for hosting Art. Had a blast at the inaugural race on this fabulous 160′ track. A very fast circuit that will get faster as the track is rubbered in.
The venue was also incredible… the best man cave I’ve had the pleasure of visiting; huge, bright and private. Looking forward to the next race here!
Yes, racingsportscars.com is a great site to find eligible models. This site is also a goto reference and can be cross checked with racingsportscars.com.
http://www.targapedia.com/targa-florio/1970s
As per the rules, the body and or chassis of your entry must be scratch built. The scratch built model database found on this site can be referred to also.
Review the scratch32 rules regarding motors for each class. Participants must pre register the model they intend on racing and must complete the scratch built form found on this site.
See attached Scratch32 rules and Targa Florio Rules.
If you click on the Targa Florio event in the Calendar there is a current summary of what will be permitted.
If you would like to participate but don’t have a car that complies and are not a builder, you should reach out to Ken, he builds chassis for any model.
Additional Entries that have raced in past events and found in database. Although these models are being registered, depending on time only one might be raced along with one of the new entries below.
3) #216 Morris Mini Cooper – 1970 (70CP216-1JM)
4) #5 Alfa Romeo 33/3 – 1971 (71CP005-1JM);
5) #31 Porsche Carrera 6 – 1971 (71CP031-1JM);
New Entries
6) #127 Porsche 914/6 – raced 1973 Targa;
7) #196 Austin Mini Cooper – raced 1967 Targa – same livery number changed to 162;
8) #224 Ferrari 330 P4 – raced at 1967 Targa. This build was highlighted on October 13, 2020, thread #16590 under scratch built forum.
Thanks Art for hosting the Targa XII. Enjoyed the close battles and the company. Looking forward to the next race.
Bill, your Targa building added to the experience. Can’t wait to see the finished product.
Thanks for hosting, great day of racing with a smaller group. Loved the tour of the 1:1 show cars. I’ll take one of each ;-))
Lovely, although the R32 and S32 race directors will have to measure the space between racer pit areas to confirm there is sufficient elbow room… ;-)) LOL
When are you going to hang some of the racing photos you have on the wall?
Lights out and away we go…. Lookin good!!
Lovely, although the R32 and S32 race directors will have to measure the space between racer pit areas to confirm there is sufficient elbow room… ;-)) LOL
When are you going to hang some of the racing photos you have on the wall?
Lights out and away we go…. Lookin good!!
Great piece, thaks for posting MIA.
See the 3D printed Alfa models that are available on this site. There are a few 1955 models, two are spiders but there is also one 1955 Giulietta Berlina coupe that is similar to the 1900 TI.
https://3dprintable.shop/product-category/alfa-romeo/page/1/?count=36
Gentlemen
This site doesn’t just have Alfa’s. You can search and find almost any vehicle. Go to the filter and look up the make you are interested in. If your going to make a purchase, make sure you are purchasing the 1/32 scale version…
The Carrera Panamericana race is a crucial test for human and machine. In 1952 a German racing team participates for the first time – and makes a 1-2 finish. The racing car: A Mercedes-Benz 300 SL. 1-2 finish for Mercedes-Benz and a legendary incident with a vulture: Even after 50 years the sports car racing event Carrera Panamericana is still remembered.
Photos of the Mercedes team that raced at the 1952 Carrera Panamericana. The #4 car won the race, while #3 placed second. The #6 car which was a Spyder was disqualified because it stopped for repairs and the team was assisted by a mechanic during the race.
Link to Racing Sports Cars – 1950’s Mercedes Benz 300 SL history, including the #3, #4 and #6 cars that raced at the 1952 CP.
https://www.racingsportscars.com/type/photo/Mercedes-Benz/300%20SL.html
Photos of the models that will race at this event
Ferrari 250 Monza Scaglietti Spyder
The #22 car driven by Franco CORNACCHIA and Enrico PERUCHINI raced and placed 5th in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana. Sponsors: HOTEL PRAVU AMERICAS/ACAPULCO. This is a replica of that car with #21 instead of its actual #22 racing number.
Click on the link to Racing Sports Cars below to see the confirmation of race result for this car.
Photos of the model that will be raced at this event.
Time permitting, I would like to add 54-SP012-1JM the Corvette C1 raced by Bill von Esser in the 1954 CP.
Cheers!
A fun time, enjoyed trading paint and racing door to door with this very evenly matched class.
Thanks for hosting Art!
I’ll have to do a few laps on the racing simulator next time out.
Here’s is an update.
I have two cars ready to race, only the driver tray is required for both and the windshield must be installed on the more recent Gulf livery car.
The Gulf livery car has a custom aluminium chassis with Fox 10 – 25k motor in a SW configuration and the Red car has an HRS chassis with a Flat 6 – 25k motor in an AW configuration. Both run the same time within 1/10th of a second per lap, with the Red car turning the quicker lap time at the moment but I am still completing my final adjustments on this model and hope to improve its pace.
Wheel Diameter
Gents, as everybody that has received their IROC model knows, the body has large wheel wells and comes with a set of very large tires and wheels that took a long while to true due to the large size and the amount of truing required to get them to the size that is required. I have trued my tires to a diameter of 23mm for the front and 24 mm for the rear and they seem to fill the openings nicely. Since there isn’t any mention of the specs so far, I am going to suggest that these dimensions are the maximum for this class. Please chime in…
Appreciated and Thank you Dave, but I’m good with 9 also, so let’s proceed with you using 7 and I’ll use 9.
You asked me what number I would use earlier on Saturday morning when I received my kit and I replied 7, which I thought I had reserved…
No worries, I’ll take nine “9”.
Gents
In addition to ordering a new Ferrari body kit for this IROC series, I bought one a few years back and built two chassis for this model. I found that the Slot it HRS chassis works perfectly for this body, the wheelbase can be adjusted for a perfect fit, the width also fits nicely and there is no need to make any width reduction. I set mine up with a Slot it black (25k) flat 6 motor and its a rocket turning times equivalent to my quickest Thunderslot, NSR Gt’s and NSR 1980’s F1 cars. With this chassis, the model handles very well with two body posts up front and one at the back.
A second option is the NSR 908 chassis which has a wheelbase of 76 mm. This chassis widens at the back towards the rear wheels and requires a little trimming to reduce the widening so that it fits perfectly under this body. I set up the white chassis (Hard) with an NSR 25k S-Can motor and tested it head to head against the HRS chassis and found that the HRS chassis was a touch faster completing lap times 1/10th of a second faster than this one although both handled equally well.
I would rate the handling for both chassis as excellent.
I also looked at the Slot it GT40 chassis which has a wheelbase of 75mm and the Alfa Romeo T33 with a wheelbase of 74mm but found that the HRS and NSR 908 or NSR 917 chassis work better under this model.
I have attached some photos to illustrate how well the HRS and NSR 908 chassis fit this body. I currently have the body post set up for the HRS chassis which do not allow the front wheels of the NSR 908 chassis to tuck in under the hood but they do fit perfectly if you decide to go this route, it takes shorter front posts than the HRS chassis.
Photo with the HRS chassis mated to the Ferrari body below. It is not screwed in so there is a gap at the front that does not exist when screwed in…
Photo below with the NSR 908 hard white chassis. The front body posts are set up for the HRS chassis and are taller than what are required for the NSR chassis therefore there is a gap under the front wheel well which would otherwise not exists.
As per the photo below, I have one extra HRS chassis which comes complete with an in-line motor pod, guide and screws (new in the package) that is available for $20 to anyone interested, just reply to this post or email me directly (offered to our group only on a COD basis).
As you can see in the photo above, I have two extra NSR 908 chassis; a HARD white one ($10), and an EXTRA HARD green one ($15) for anyone interested-these are discounted prices. You will need to buy the additional parts required to complete the assembly which include, the bushings, guide, motor mount and mounting screws…
Fun to watch this clip… I wonder how they did that?
I could see James Garner or Charles Bronson behind the wheel.
Looks fabulous f1nutz
Now if only a young Sophia Loren was blowing kisses from the window… that would be the cherry on top :=))!
Very nice Steve.
At 10.5 grams, that body is almost as light as a Thunderslot. It will be very competitive if you can get the chassis 2mm above the track. Great progress with your 3 D printer. I suspect this will be the course that we all take in the not too distant future. I applaud your perseverance and for showing us the way.
Thanks for posting, I concur with MIA’s comments. It was great to see the Alfa win against the silver arrows… Yay for Louis Chiron!
What about that shot of the car sailing over the wall at Indianapolis race at the beginning … Crazy!
I agree with Ken and have suggested this to another group of racers a couple of years ago.
I don’t see any reason why we would stay with old technology when there are newer, superior models of the same class car available. I would suggest we include the Policar modern F1 cars in the modern F1 class. Individuals that want to continue using the older, more fragile Scalextric models are free to continue but their inferior results will likely nudge them gently towards the Policar models over time. The current rule restrictions to the Scalextric models would remain the same, save and except the track width which should be modified to match the 67mm RTR wheel track of the Policar models. Perhaps we can modify both Scalextric and Policar models to a 65mm maximum-this would make the older Scalextric F1 competitive. KK tested a modern Policar F1 car against a Scalextric F1 car; both with a 65mm rear wheel track and found them to be equivalent.
For the Policar F1 cars, I would suggest we keep it as a stock class with 3:1 gearing (using the 17T crown that all RTR cars come with) but you can upgrade the plastic wheels with aluminium wheels. Maximum rear wheel diameter for both Scaly and Policar models should be the same.
F1 UNLIMITED CLASS
In addition to this, we should add the new NSR and Scaleauto late 1980’s and early 1990’s F1 cars to the F1 Unlimited class. This class would include these RTR models but also any other F1 model from 1980 to current, with any chassis, any motor, with any gearing. The wheel track width would be 67MM (the stock width for the NSR 1980’s RTR models). The only item left to agree on is the maximum rear wheel diameter. I would suggest 22mm.
As most of you know, we have already been racing the F1 Unlimited Class at the Riverhampton. Is it time to make these new NSR and Scaleauto models F1U cars in the official S32 club rules?
Thanks for the photos of the Ulster. It’s a great looking model, one of my favorites.
That’s a pretty gruesome photo of the upside down Ulster. It seems the driver was lucky and kept his head – that could have been a complete disaster; Ugh! It appears that you really can’t beat the luck of the Irish or the luck of race car drivers while racing in Ireland. The caption over the photo states…
J. L. Donkin pinned beneath his Aston Martin following the violent skid at Mill Corner on the Ards’ Circuit at Belfast. A Policeman is seen running to his assistance. Photograph. Northern Ireland. 1935.
Nice vintage finish! Has an authentic look. I look forward to seeing it race at the next Coppa D event!
That was an exhilarating 8+ minute ride through the mountains of northern Italy. Some great passing and its incredible that nobody was injured, they were inches from the walls and guardrails with their heads and body… Cool to watch but I don’t think I’d ride one of those hod rod tricycles anywhere other than my flat driveway… ;=))
The NSR white body kits are a great base to work with. The model looks Fabulous. Great work on the decals.
I’ve been following your outlined track maintenance suggestions for years and they have served me well.
Thanks
I realize that I may have over trued the WW tires a touch but if you compare the actual car, they are close, the profile of the tire is almost entirely WW. There is always a tradeoff when trying to keep the chassis as low to the track as possible to achieve a low COG. I’ll definitely take less material off on my next build-your WW tires are fantastic. I appreciate your suggestion.
Thank you for your comments everyone.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pegaso_Z-102 Check this link for the Pagaso racing history
Various models of the Pegaso raced at two LeMans races, and also at Carrera Panamericana in 1954. The base model Z-102 had a top speed of 120 mph (192 km/h). In supercharged trim the Z-102 could reach a top speed of 151 mph (243 km/h), making it one of the world’s fastest production cars at that time.
I agree, this model is too beautiful to race. Given it weight, Its will likely just be a Sunday drive.
LOL … ;=))
You will notice that I painted the front of the white NSR guide black my intention was to add a front plate when I raise the car, I will glue a curved plate to the guide to cover the guide and the chassis. Was thinking a decal of dice… we’ll see.
I have the slicks for the rear, I may or may not use them, depending on the rules… Just having fun with this build.
Thanks for your comments.
My apologies, I will not be able to attend.
I agree with Racer68 regarding not making any changes to the Indy Roadster class. I have already built my cars as per the specifications provided by the club on this site. My suggestion to those who are struggling with this build, you should review the forum posts by Ken who described in detail how to build a chassis, as well as how to attach the rod and spring to the motor. If you are still having trouble, purchase a custom chassis from Ken, you will not be disappointed.
I agree with all the points made by Ken and F1nutz.
It’s too early to tell if any gatherings would be permitted, neighbours may not like the idea until we are given a green light…. If and when gatherings are permitted, we can cross this bridge. As I have previously indicated, I would host an indoor race. According to the CDC guidelines, all that are vaccinated can gather two weeks after the second shot. It depends on each individuals risk tolerance and whether they or the people that they are in close contact with are immunocompromised. We could all wear masks and take measures. I look forward to when we can continue according to our new normal…
FYI – Building material costs have skyrocketed, an 8 foot 2 x 4 is now $10 plus (was $2, 2 years ago) and a sheet of regular plywood that was $20, is now $94. If the outdoor track is the only viable outcome down the road, the costs presented should be double checked… There is an outdoor plywood material that is four times the cost of a sheet of regular plywood the last time I used this product. The cost now might be outrageous but you can soak this material in a tub of water for a month with zero effect.
Haha…
Cool Carrera digital layout with pit lanes! We began with a Carrera digital set years ago and my son tells me he wants it back. This is well planned and someone has put a lot of effort in to set it up and must obviously have to take it down after each use. I can’t see how it can be left exposed to the elements, the garden needs sun and to be watered. It consumes at least half of the front yard, so I’m inclined to believe the owner is either a bachelor or this is a frat house ;-).
Perfect timing, I needed a late afternoon break and watching this was just the ticket.
Thanks for posting F1nutz.
I’ll be happy to race in or outdoors when gatherings of 3 or more are permitted again and happy to host indoors as well…
Regarding the outdoor suggestion; 1, 2, or 3 lanes. Plastic, MDF or other, I’m flexible and easy to please with very low expectations ;-).
I have lots of new builds completed between March 2020 and September 2020. Looking forward to racing front motor Indy GP cars first, which was a class we started in 2019 but not mentioned lately….
Definitely one of the more action packed Jay Leno Garage clips. This may be a preview of things to come racing these models around a track instead of just drag racing them down a straight line. I think we need to consult our resident drag race expert Mr. J Guts. He may have some valuable bits of information that he can share with us having raced 1/32 dragsters with 100k+ motors for many years.
F1nuts, I think the value of your Barracuda just shot up, since the original was complete destroyed and needs to be rebuilt, while yours will be an original. Funny, the only two things that remained intact and unscathed were the Hemi and the glass. Bob might be the only 80 year old that can get it up but he may has lost his ability to control it ;-). I think Jay got an earful from Mavis after this event.
This is looking good. I assume you have the front and rear windshield otherwise you will have to perfect your glassblowing skills for the curves in the rear. Did you print your own decals or is this one of your projects that’s been siting in a box for the last 10 or 20 years waiting for its time?
Is this going to be an actual class? and if it is, are we running laps or just a drag race down the straight?
3D Printing is improving. Most hearing aides are made from 3D printing, they are building small homes with large 3D printers, Elon Musk is talking about printing rocket parts that break in space with 3D printers and there are others saying that they will be making human organs for transplant using 3D printers in the future which sounds incredible, I don’t understand how that will work…
I have ordered a number of 3D printed chassis and they are all smooth enough and work great, but apparently the technology for model car body’s is still developing and you are correct Ken, there are visible lines in the body’s at the moment which means we’ll have to wait until the technology catches up to our standards and expectations. That’s too bad because the site above had plans for many unavailable models that we would all be interested in.
Turns out this site is selling print files. Similar to Thingiverse, All3DP that have many print files for free. They sell you the file, you take it, scale it on your 3D printer and print it. This is only the first step but this site has print files for many models that are difficult to get and will be of interest to the club. There are lots of cool hot rods, Ferrari’s, Lambo’s, lots of models from 1930’s to 1960’s and a few pages of trucks.. worth looking at. We just need somebody with a 3D printer…
I’ll set up a test session with you over the next week.
So it’s the red pinion…, I thought it was the orange…
Thanks Ken
Once you do this, you realize how easy it is with Superclean. If you are not 100% satisfied, don’t be afraid to start again.
They all look good. What’s your favourite colour…
You can pull straws or assign each colour a number and roll dice to decide, unless you can find a three sided coin to flip 😉
Beautiful build Ken. I was blinded for a few seconds due to the shine on that car. That’s a good thing.
Kudos Looks fabulous!
I’ve been busy building during the lockdown 911. Happy to help out and promote friends in the hobby.
I’ve built another 11 aluminium chassis myself over the last two months, plus another nine chassis; four brass/piano wire; one photo etched front motor GP and the balance Shapeways/plastic.
B-)
Art
Thanks for hosting last night’s test session for our new class; the Boulevard Cruisers.
What a fabulous class of cars. They work so well, my Thunderbird may be the best handling car I own… its definitely in the top three. I can drive it hard into any turn without any concern that it will come off, it glides smoothly and very quickly around any turn. Also, every model is very evenly matched. All of Ken’s models and my car were turning the same lap times within 100’s of a second, it was impossible to pass each other unless one of us let up on the throtle. So much fun racing nose to tail for multiple laps…
The reason our cars were evenly matched was that they are all set up with the same aluminium chassis, built by Ken. I have commissioned 11 chassis from Ken for a number of my cars, the Thunderbird cruiser was one of the first cars. If you are considering building one of these cars, I highly recommend you consider purchasing a custom aluminium chassis built by Ken, you will not be disappointed. I have built over 40 brass/piano wire chassis, each chassis build takes me a full day to complete now, it use to take up to one week and on many occasions I had to scrap a chassis and start over. I was never sure how well my build would perform, and it took a few years of building to develop the skill to build to a competitive level.
Another way to look at it it cost. Assuming you can purchase a body for $30 which would be the lowest cost, most will be around $50 + shipping, any Dart kit will set you back $50 or more to start with. Then you have to add the chassis, and parts including, brass, piano wire, solder, guide, spacers, wire, braid, motor, bushings/bearings, gears, axels, wheels, tires, paint, decals… Your lowest cost build will tally $120 + ($140 average). In my opinion, you will be much further ahead, save yourself many hours of toil while uncertain about your final result. Why not take all the risk out of it and begin with a winning chassis. This especially applies to anyone who is just beginning with only one or two builds under their belts, and even more for those with no builds.
Hope everyone can have at least one completed build ready by end of September when we race our first Boulevard Cruiser events.
Cheers!
Thanks guys
Its always fun figuring out how to build these cars… solving problems like how to place the front wheels ahead of the guide, being creative while allowing the car to look good and work well.
Thank you MIA
I don’t know if this will be a trend, but I think it will be worthwhile for anyone who wants to learn to build one of these, they work very well. Food for thought… It takes much less time than building a brass and piano wire chassis.
Thanks guys
I did not make any adjustments to the driver, I simply put him into the cockpit as he came with the kit. In comparison to the photos of the actual car the top of the drivers head is just above the roll bar in one and about level with it in another. I will be putting both models through a rigorous tuning and testing session and I may adjust them to sit a bit lower.
I’m looking forward to racing these models soon.
I noticed all but the Novi 8V Indy models have been sold out since I posted the link to the Ostorero site. I assume many in our club have recently acquired a model or two so we should have a diverse field of entry’s at the first event. Gianluca has advised that he has experienced delays with his suppliers in recent months but hopes that a couple of models will be available some time in September. He also is completing two new 1940’s model’s of Maserati 8CTF Indycars which he hopes to release in the coming months.
We all know and agree that not everyone can build cars fast and this is why builders must be encouraged to build and allowed to race their cars as much as possible, not be penalized. A driver with one car will race all four heats. However, we should not penalize those that build more cars by allowing one set a racers an advantage over the others. I believe we can agree that every car is different, it handles differently and It is my experience that I will get faster with any particular car the more I drive it. If I drive car A in the first heat that comes off easily in corner 1 and 4, this does not give me any advantage when I switch to car B in the second race, car B handles well in corners 1 and 4, but does not handle well in corner 5 and I must be diligent coming out of corner 5 or my car rolls.
If we look at and F1 qualifying we note that the drivers driving the same cars get faster in Q2 over Q1, and Q3 is always the fastest… because everyone has had more practice driving the same car learning its limits with the track conditions that exist on race day. For example, if Leclerc and Verstappen qualify as first and second after Q2, with a 1 second per lap advantage over the rest of the field and we have them switch to each others cars in Q3, they may not qualify at all in Q3 or at least lose their advantage and qualify in the middle of the filed. They did have the same track time as the rest of the drivers but suddenly their advantage was artificially removed and they were penalized while other the other drivers were not.
I believe a review of the past race results will prove that in the vast majority of occurrences a driver driving the same car for multiple races will improve over their previous race result driving the same car at the same event. This is an advantage awarded to this driver and a penalty to the others. Why have so many rules to make racing as fair as possible and ignore this obvious advantage which tips the scales?
It would be great if as many others as possible chime in and provide their thoughts on this relevant topic.
Yes, I agree with your views on allowing some flexibility with wheels and tires Racer68. Although we all have some flexibility, I believe our goal should be to build our models to look like the original cars but on a smaller scale. I think the stock wheels that came with my kit are on the wide side. I have already stated that I will be using 15×7 RSslot wheels on my next build.
A link to the Ostorero webpage is posted below for anyone that may be interested in a more diverse variety of models for this class. Once you click on a model, you will be presented with 9 or 10 pages of models to choose from.
Thanks guys
For my first model- the 1960 Watson Ken-Paul Spl; I used the wheels and chassis that came with the model kit… see the wheels and brass etched chassis on my jig in the photo below. The chassis will require some modification to accommodate the 050 motor. Instead of a rib, the wheels had a channel and the inside of the stock tires had a strip of rubber that fit into the grove. I used the stock tires for the front and the Dart ribless tires for the rear that I trued down to a mounted diameter of 23.40mm, and the front to 22mm.
Front wheels are 14.75mm x 8mm wide
Rear wheel are 16.50mm x 9mm wide
The the finished slot car weighs 86 grams, which will be reduced once I swap the motor with an 050. I may add weight to it. My 1959 model will likely weigh less than 80 grams due to a lighter scratch built chassis and 050 motor. I will use the RS slot 15mm x 7mm wheels for this model and use the new tall Dart tires with the RS slot wheels.
Thanks Ken
This car is geared 12P x 31. Has lots of brake with this gearing. I will experiment and try a few spur gears with the 12P….
The transmission comes with the body, it is one piece and must be painted silver. I have attached a photo of the kit. In this photo I have painted the body yellow and taped the centre line prior to painting the body green.
The photo below highlights the kit as it comes, prior to painting.
Still needs a bit of work, such as shaving the rear body post and final tuning adjustments.
Thanks Ken
Thanks F1NUTZ
Here is the finished car with driver and wheel inserts.
Here is the car with the roof on
Very nice Chris
Did you paint the body with a can of Tamiya or did you use an air brush? Also, what is the colour code/name.
Thanks
Sharp looking Tudor. The paint sparkles. I don’t think you could have slammed it any more than you did.
Nice build!
:good:
I wish I could say that the matching gear colours was planned, but I do like to be colour coordinated… :-).
This model tips the scale at 84 grams complete with inserts and driver head. It handles very well prior to adding and weight, it is a pleasure to drive. Testing will determine if adding weight improves it.
Thanks
The scale tips at 71 grams for this model, prior to adding any weight. However, I’m not sure if much weight will be required, if any. It handles very well as is. Both front and rear tracks are just under the limit as per the rules.
Ken
Excellent information… no wonder the paint jobs on your cars look so good.
One thing you forgot to mention is to go over your project with a can of compressed air that can be purchased at the dollar store for $4 to blow any unseen dust off the body before you begin. I have a small airbrush that I’ve never used to paint with but I use its compressor to go over all my projects and blow away any dust before I begin to paint.
Thanks for your post.
Ken
This is very useful information. I have been caught twice trying to finish a project, only to run out of paint near the end and having that erratic end spray ruin the finish of my project on the final coat.
Thanks for posting.
Ken: The chassis has no flex, its very solid, which in my opinion works best for these low powered motors. I’ve only built two chassis with flex and for me, I can’t tell if they add anything although the literature on this topic says it does. Maybe my skill is not there yet but on my builds I could not see any benefit.
By all means Luis, use anything you feel is a good idea for your build.
Thank you guys.
