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    • Alfa Romeo at the 1954 Carrera Panamericana Alfa Romeo at the 1954 Carrera Panamericana - by MiA - As Art was kind enough to set up a blog for my meanderings I felt I should give it a go. What to write about, how long should it be? Perhaps I could use a blog as an excuse to dig a little more into subjects I was interested in, and if anyone else learned a bit, then so much the better. Of course the first one would have to be a subject near and dear to my heart (and so as if you didn’t know) Alfa Romeos! But what Alfa story? As the company with the oldest racing history there are so many stories. So, where to start?? Lets just choose a convenient and timely one, the upcoming Carrera Panamericana proxy race. Over the five years that the race was held there were many Alfas to write about, both factory and private entries.  For a first go lets just use the alternate photo posted for the upcoming proxy race. Easy, a bit obscure, quite pedestrian and definitely all Alfa!! I’m sure Art put it in for my benefit!! [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="911"] Monumento de la Revolition[/caption] A little bit of background on the Carrera Panamericana first. In 1950, Mexico became the first Latin-American country to complete its part of the Pan-American Highway. To celebrate this achievement, the national government decided to organize a five-day race along the new road. It consisted of a total of 9 stages and ran from Ciudad Juárez on the US border to the Guatemalan border. The original version of the Carrera Panamericana was held from 1950 to 1954 and during its short existence it developed a reputation for being one of the most dangerous races in the world. Due to the start line being close to the US, most of the cars and drivers for the first 1950 race came from the US. The first winners were an American team of Hershel McGriff and Ray Elliott in an Oldsmobile 88. From the second edition onwards, the route was switched, going from the southern to the northern border. Over the ensuing years competition grew and attracted more teams from abroad. Along with most American manufacturers and many ‘specials’, Ferrari, Lancia, Porsche, Borgward, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, OSCA, Jaguar, Mercedes, Talbot Lago, Gordini, VW and Pegaso all sent or supported teams headlined with seasoned road, track and rally drivers. Of particular interest here is the 1954 race and the picture used for the alternate in the upcoming proxy races announcement. (Hopefully Alfas from other years will follow in later posts). 1954 was the last of the original races and the picture was taken in front of the Monumento de la Revolition in Mexico City, probably sometime after the third day of racing or just before the start of the fourth day. The Monumento de la Revolition commemorates the independence of Mexico from Spain. It is located in Plaza de la República, near to the heart of major thoroughfares in downtown Mexico City. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="511"] Monumento de la Revolition[/caption] The structure was initially intended to be at the centre of the Federal Legislature and the first stone was laid in 1910 during the centennial celebrations of Independence. The project was not finished due to the Mexican Revolutionary War and after several regime changes in 1913 it was cancelled and abandoned. It’s steel inner structure stood rusting for more than twenty years. Later it was proposed to convert the abandoned structure into a monument to the heroes of the Mexican Revolution. After this was approved, the structure began its makeover. Four stone sculpture groups were designed and built over the existing cupola structure. The structure also functions as a mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution of 1910. It was eventually completed around 1938. For the 1954 running there were thirteen Alfas entered. Eleven participated and 2 were listed as Did Not Arrive. No. Drivers Entrant Make Type Model Engine Gr. 251 Sanesi / Cagna Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 252 Velazquez / Ruiz Atoyac Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 254 Mancini / Mijares Anaconda Nacional Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 255 Carini / Sambrotta Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 256 Mantovani / Chiappa Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 257 Solana / Leguizamo Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 258 Pedro J. Llano Pedro J. Llano Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 260 Guillermo G. Airaldi Guillermo Airaldi Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 265 Cerezo / Palacios David Cerezo Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 267 Della Favera / Campigotto Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 268 Bonini / Zanavoni Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 And entered but did not arrive: 264 Pedro J. Llano Pedro J. Llano Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 266 Enrique Fluchaire Enrique Fluchaire Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 Clearly shown in the picture are four Alfa Romeo 1900 Ti cars. Quite possibly these are four of the five cars entered by Finmeccanica. The 5th Finmeccanica entered car is possibly the car to the right in the photograph. Like many of the early automobile manufacturers Alfa Romeo had gone through turbulent times since it’s inception. Ugo Gobbato the head of Alfa Romeo in 1945 had been shot and killed by an unknown gunman as he cycled to work. Thus after WW2 Alfa thus found itself without a leader and with most of its factories destroyed by the war. A new chairman, Pasquale Gallo, was appointed to demilitarize Alfa Romeo, and responsibility for design was handed to the engineer Orazio Satta Puliga. He made significant contributions towards re-launching Alfa Romeo into a new era. After introducing several upscale models based on pre war models, in 1950 he introduced the Alfa Romeo 1900, a family car that would be capable of winning races. Modern and practical, Puliga considered the 1900 to be the ultimate choice for the middle class. It offered great performance and a heritage of brilliant sporting achievements at a competitive price. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="781"] Alfa Romeo 1900 Sedan (Berlina)[/caption] The Alfa Romeo 1900 was produced from 1950 to 1959. It was an important development for Alfa, being it’s first car built entirely on a production line and it’s first production car without a separate chassis. The Engine was a 1.9 L DOHC Inline 4, developing 90 bhp, which was later enlarged to 2.0L It was produced in several variants, a 4-door saloon (Berlina), a 2-door coupé (Sprint) and a 2-door convertible. It was the first Alfa Romeo offered with left-hand drive. After introduction it was later offered as a 1900C(Short) and then as a 1900TI with a more powerful motor producing 100bhp. Later came Super and Super Ti versions. A total of 21,304 were built during the production run, including 17,390 of the saloons. The chassis was designed specifically to allow it to be re-bodied and several coachbuilders developed some beautiful variants, including a 4-wheel drive version (Matta) based on the 1900. Finmeccanica, the entrant of the cars we are interested in was established in 1948 as part of the efforts by Italy's government-controlled industrial holding company IRI (Istituto per la Ricostruzione Industriale) to restructure Italy’s devastated industrial and engineering sector after the war. IRI had itself taken over effective control of Alfa around 1928 when Nicola Romeo left the company. After it’s establishment Finmeccanica effectively became Alfa Romeo’s parent company until it sold Alfa to the Fiat Group in 1986. The 1954 race was run from south to north over 8 stages and 3,070 kilometres (1,910 mi). 150 cars started the race, and 85 finished all 8 stages. The European stock car class was won by Consalvo Sanesi and Giuseppe Cagna in Alfa Romeo #251 finishing 15th overall. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="438"] 1900 Motor[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="414"] Finned Aluminium Brake Drum[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="464"] Finishing Line[/caption] Other Alfa finishers were car # 256 driven by Mantovani / Chiappa finishing 18th overall, car # 267 driven by Della Favera / Campigotto finishing 19th overall, car # 255 driven by Carini / Sambrotta finishing 20th overall, car # 252 driven by Velazquez / Ruiz finishing 30th overall. Car # 268 driven by Bonini / Zanavoni was a DNF due to an accident. All considered, an excellent showing for Alfa. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="435"] Consalvo Sanesi and Giuseppe Cagna[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="370"] Carini/Sambrota in car #255[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="418"] The Velazquez / Ruiz car[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="412"] The Velazquez / Ruiz car[/caption] There are several good smaller scale models of most of the cars that participated in the 1954 race, but I haven’t found a 1/32 scale kit that could be used as the basis for an S32 car …yet. [foogallery id="33634"]

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • Vintage Mini’s A new class of cars raced a Riverhampton is the Vintage Mini's.  The class is limited to only Scalextric 1960's vintage Mini Cooper's and Morris Mini's.   It's a slow class, therefore the stock 18-22k slim ff motor must be replaced with a BWA 14k motor.  Any pinion is allowed to be paired with the tiny stock 20T crown gear.  This is a turtle race and guaranteed to be fun.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Riverhampton Photo Collage July 14 2022 See attached the race report and photo collage of the race held on Thursday July 14 2022 Classes: ● Vintage Mini’s ● Classic Stock Car ● Nascar ● Classic Le Mans ● Modern GT Format: ● 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. ● Voltage set @ 10.5v ● Three marshals for every heat. ● Race to line result will determine finishing order.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • R32 LII FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, June 11, 2022 @ The River Classes: Trans Am (TA) 1960's 1.5L Grand Prix (15GP) USRRC/SCCA Sportscar (USSP) CANAM (CA) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. Voltage set @ 10.5v Three marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order.   Trans Am (TA): #2 - 71 Laps (6.795 ext.) #78 - 71 (13.634) #45 - 68 (8.733) #1 - 67 (6.545) #13 - 67 (15.770) #1 - 63 (14.317) 1960's 1.5L Grand Prix (15GP): #33 - 69 Laps (8.517 ext.) #7 - 66 (7.376) #8 - 66 (12.943) #7 - 65 (6.054) #3 - 65 (14.305) #? - 64 (12.216) USRRC/SCCA Sportscar (USSP): #66 - 72 Laps (18.531 ext.) #1 - 70 (9.095) #27 - 68 (15.013) #4 - 68 (27.427) #3 - 64 (11.471) #9 - 63 (19.066) CANAM (CA): #30 - 84 Laps (11.650 ext.) #11 - 81 (8.294) #2 - 79 (9.499) #59 - 78 (3.911) #7 - 77 (12.786) #6 - 76 (9.557) [foogallery id="27112"]

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • New track in the east Basic plans have been drawn up by Art to make a 2-lane new track in my basement. Art was kind enough to take on the task of fitting a small track into a tiny basement. I don't have a name for it yet. Maybe the KRZ Twister? Name suggestions are most welcome. The final dimensions will be on a 5' foot by 10' foot base. The closest rooms to the track are the washroom and kitchen. It should work out well to host races for small groups. Everything in life is time sensitive. I should have done this a few years ago. Thank you to Art for accepting the challenge.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • R32 LV FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, August 6, 2022 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: NASCAR (NC) Classic Stock Car (CSC) Group 5 (G5) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) Format: 4 minute heats (240 seconds) x 3 (Blue Lane Shut Down). Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order NASCAR (NC): #11 - 97 Laps (10.022 ext.) #35 - 96 (9.216) #48 - 94 (3.013) #88 - 92 (5.546) #88 - 88 (3.860) #43 DNS Classic Stock Car (CSC): #20 - 94 Laps (7.990 ext.) #32 - 94 (10.098) #34 - 94 (10.751) #92 - 89 (8.073) #21 - 87 (18.950) Group 5 (G5): #23 - 111 Laps (13.268 ext.) #51 - 106 (11.168) #50 - 104 (6.829) #9 - 101 (14.121) #539 - 100 (9.965) 3.0L LeMans (3LM): #7 - 109 Laps (2.682 ext.) #5 - 107 (10.186) #10 - 106 (4.948) #32 - 106 (10.778) #8 - 105 (10.639) [foogallery id="30063"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • MVL Saturday September 10, 2022 Art I had to create a new thread for this event since the original has disappeared. Thank you for hosting, it was a fun day of racing with a great group of guys.  Too many close battles in every class to mention. We are all very lucky to be able to race at such an incredible venue.  I'm looking forward to the next race. Ken, it was great to see you out and enjoying our favorite hobby!      

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • R32 LVII FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, September 24, 2022 @ Nova Ridge Classes: Trans Am (TA) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) Modern LeMans/GT (LMP) CANAM (CA) Format: 4 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v One marshal for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order Trans Am (TA): #45 - 56 Laps (24.268 ext.) #7 - 56 (33.045) #2 - 55 (22.196) #40 - 53 (39.931) #2 - 47 (42.257) #1 - DNS 3.0L LeMans (3LM): #3 - 60 Laps (28.180 ext.) #8 - 60 (39.547) #7 - 58 (25.816) #85 - 57 (31.760) #65 - 52 (29.634) #5 - DNS #10 - DNS Modern LeMans/GT (LMP/GT): #33 - 60 Laps (26.817 ext.) #77 - 60 (29.502) #7 - 59 (16.296) #11 - 59 (28.186) #4 - 51 (28.884) #12 - DNS CANAM (CA): #59 - 61 Laps (30.125 ext.) #32 - 60 (30.154) #30 - 59 (32.974) #102 - 58 (29.945) #65 - 53 (24.335) #2 - DNS [foogallery id="30422"] Thank you to everyone who participated! Many thanks to everyone who helped break the track in before we began racing... Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Riverhampton Photo Collage for Thursday October 13, 2022 Classes: 1) Vintage Mini’s - 8.80 second bracket 2) 1950’s & 1960’s Sports Cars 3) 1960’s 1.5L GP 4) Classic LeMans 22k 5) F1 Unlimited   Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. Voltage set @ 10.5v Three marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. Vintage Mini’s 8.8 second bracket; all other classes no bracket. 1) Vintage Mini's Our field of entries has expanded, it's diverse. Congrats to Gary for the Win and taking a commanding lead with 12 points in the series. Also Kudo’s to Art for his second place finish. All entries finished with 58 to 60 laps, some very close battles. 2) 1950-60's Sport Cars including those that raced at USRRC and SCCA enduro events. 3) 1960's 1.5 LGP 4) Classic LeMans 22K 5) F1 Unlimited A big thanks to all the participants that made this a great evening of racing!  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • R32 LXV FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, January 7, 2023 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: Classic Stock Car (CSC) 1960's 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP) Classic LeMans (CLM) Group C/IMSA (GCI) Format: 4 minute heats (240 seconds) x 3 Voltage set @ 10.9v One marshal for every heat Race to line result determines finishing order Classic Stock Car (CSC): #20 - 98 Laps (15.296 ext.) #32 - 96 (11.132) #13 - 95 (12.934) #92 - 94 (7.926) 1960's 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP): #8 - 98 Laps (15.576 ext.) #2 - 97 (11.136) #73 - 94 (8.387) #30 - 92 (10.963) Classic LeMans (CLM): #5 - 105 Laps (18.273 ext.) #33 - 104 (11.934) #16 - 101 (12.290) #1 - 100 (6.468) Group C/IMSA (GCI): #19 - 109 Laps (7.376 ext.) #14 - 105 (7.482) #14 - 105 (9.418) #62 - 104 (14.168) [foogallery id="31088"] Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • The new Hot Rod Garage I finally tore apart the workbench and moved it out of the track room. An opportunity to clean up and re-organize. The bench as it used to be. Lots of holes were left in the walls. Oops. Me fix! The bench was moved into the basement kitchen. The drill press is now on the other side of the kitchen, and away from the slot car assembly area. A plywood back was added to the bench. Look wife... no more holes in the walls! (Except for the tire-rack on the right side) I can finally start building cars again. And finish the track room!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Riverhampton Photo Collage for Thursday February 2, 2023 Classes: 1. Vintage Mini’s - 8.80 second bracket 2. Sports Cars 3. Nascar 4. Classic LeMans 5. Can Am Format: ● 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. ● Voltage set @ 10.5v ● Three marshals for every heat. ● Race to line result will determine finishing order. ● Vintage Mini’s 8.8 second bracket; all other classes no bracket.   1) Vintage Mini's     2) Sports Cars 3) Nascar 4) Classic LeMans 5) Can Am Another fun night of racing with friends. Thanks to all participants!  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • La Carrera Panamericana XIII Share your entry details including photographs within this topic thread by replying. NOTE: to register you must fill in the online model registration form located within the events calendar. Thank you for sharing!!!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • Riverhampton Photo Collage for Thursday April 6 2023 Seven out of Eight participants made it out to this event due to the Passover (Pesach) holidays.   Classes: 1. Vintage Mini’s - 8.80 second bracket 2. 1950's GP 3. 1960's GP 1.5L 4. Trans AM 5. Revoslot GT (stock)   Format: ● 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. ● Voltage set @ 10.5v ● Three marshals for every heat. ● Race to line result will determine finishing order. ● Vintage Mini’s 8.8 second bracket; all other classes no bracket.     1) Vintage Mini's The host took the checkered flag.  Congrats to Gary for the fastest lap with an 8.804 in the blue lane, he won the extra point and placed second.   2) 1950's GP Winner took the flag with 71 laps, second had 70 laps and third and fourth both finished with 69 laps and a 7.2 second variance on extension.   3) 1960's GP Winner took the flag with 71 laps, second and third both finished with 69 laps and a 5 second variance on extension. 4) Trans AM First and second both finished with 71 laps (Kudos to Alan for his second place finished!), third and fourth both finished with 70 laps.   5) Revoslot GT (Stock) No photos were taken of the Revoslot cars, only four racers participated.  First and second both finished with 78 laps and only a 3.5 variance on extension. 1) Marcos LM600 GT2 - 78 laps 2) Porsche 911 GT1 - 78 laps 3) Mercedes Benz CLK GTR - 75 laps 4) Dodge Viper GTS - 74 laps   Thanks to all participants that made this another fun evening of racing!    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • T32 Report – February 8, 2024 [foogallery id="42845"] Gents See the race results tally for the Boulevard Cruiser and Revoslot Jr series. Points are awarded to the top 6 in descending order (6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1) and 1 point is awarded to the fastest lap without breaking out. Boulevard Cruiser Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 2 DNA 4 5 6 3 6 0 29 4th Art DNA DNA DNA 0 DNA DNA 0 2.5 1 3.5 8th Brian 2 DNA 3 0 0 1 1 0 0 7 7th Gary 5 4 DNA 1 2 DNA 2 3 5 22 6th Jim DNQ 7 6 6 7 3 7 1 6 43 1st Ken 7 1 6 3 3 2 5 5.5 4 36.5 2nd Marcello 4 5 4 3 1 4 0 0 2 23 5th Robert 1 3 DNA 5 4 6 4 4 4 31 3rd Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 0 0 9th Podium - Jim 66 laps; Gary 64 laps; Cupcake 64 laps Kudos to Ken with the fast lap of 8.102 in blue lane Revoslot Jr. Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 3 DNA 0 3 4 0 1 0 14 7th Art DNA DNA DNA 2 DNA DNA 5 2 6 15 5th Brian 2 DNA 3 1 2 1 3 0 3 15 6th Gary 5 5 DNA 4 4 DNA 4 5 2 29 3rd Jim DNQ 6 7 6 7 7 6 7 6 52 1st Ken 7 1 4 0 1 2 1 0 4 20 5th Marcello 4 6 5 4 5 6 4 3 0 37 2nd Robert 1 2 DNA 5 0 3 2 4 0 17 4th Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 1 1 9th Podium Jim 68 laps; Art 68 laps; Ken 68 laps Kudos to Art with the fast lap of 7.602 in yellow lane Kudos to Van for earning his first point in the Boulevard Cruiser class placing 6th with 66 laps! Vintage Mini results - night race 1) Jim with 57 laps; 2) Gary with 57 laps; Marcello with 55 laps.  Ken with the fast lap 9.407 and many faster laps with breakouts but his car was DQ due to no lights. Slot it DTM Results 1) Jim 73 laps; Gary 57 laps; Marcello 55 laps LeMans 22k 1) Jim 79 laps; Gary 72 laps; Art 70 laps The host enjoyed home track advantage to the max on this night. Thanks to all participants who made this another fun evening of racing! Stay tuned for Cupcakes invite with announcement of classes for our next race on Thursday Feb 22, 2024. Keep the pedal to the metal boys!

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • IROC 2024 Series Gents, Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too! Interested? The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery. Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations: Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout; Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone; Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes); Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well); On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races. Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race. Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible. The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models. If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation. Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point... This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly. The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100... Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...) Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant. The following molded colours will become available: Green (sold) Yellow (sold) Red (sold) Blue (sold) Charcoal White Orange (sold) Purple Brown/Rust Pink (sold) Baby Blue Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish. Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Modern F1 class Thoughts have recently been exchanged at the last race about the modern F1 class. Many intersting points were made. I bought a Scalex modern F1 last Thursday night. It hit the floor twice on Saturday, and is now broken. The reason I bought it was because my other car sucks and is in need of a total rebuild. Now I have two Scalex cars in need of major repairs. I looked at Electric Dreams to see what a new Scalex car retails for. The average is $100 in US funds. There's an one ugly one in the bunch for $65 US. Many are as high as $129 to $149 just for an ordinary F1 car. Here's the car I bought last Thursday. It's available at Electric Dreams for $129 US funds.   This car below is also $129 in US funds.   While on the same site, I checked out Policar modern F1's. They start at $54.95 US for a generic coloured car.   A fully decorated car like the one below goes as high as $64.95 USD. Not all that expensive. Instead of changing everything at once and pushing everyone into totally changing cars for this class. Can we add the Policar brand to the modern F1 class? If the Policar F1 is a lot cheaper, readily available, and a slightly better platform. Everyone should have no trouble phasing out the Scalex cars on their own over time. If someone is fully dedicated to their Scalex car, and talented at tuning them. Why not keep them going too? Just some food for thought since there were a few broken F1 cars last Saturday. I'm not looking forward to fixing either of my Scalex F1's. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1953 Carrera Panamericana winner       Fangio and Bronzoni won the 1953 Carrera Panamericana in their number 36 D24 Lancia. The slow motor classes are some of my favorites so I thought I'd give o'l number 36 a try. When finished this car should qualify for both our 50's sports car and our Carrera Panamericana classes. The body is 3D printed in Elegoo ABS like resin from a file I purchased online. The chassis was designed and printed by me in PLA+ on my FDM printer. The body weighs 10.5 grams and the chassis adds another 5. The D24 has very little front overhang, making designing the chassis and the location of the various front end components a challenge. I will add the body posts and source the images for making the decals next. Cheers Steve  

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ford GT Alan Mann Heritage Edition Gents, Some of you who visited our host MVL Leasing saw the Alan Mann Heritage Edition Ford GT. A beautiful super car and wonderful tribute livery straight from the Ford factory. From MVL's Instagram account these photos were released: For more information visit: Top Gear Article

      Started by: Arthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Cupcake Raceway hosting SOS32 Sunday Event – held February 26, 2023 What's faster, a 50's Sportscar or a Semi? Does it really matter when 11 racers had a ton of fun running 50's Sportscars, Scalextric cars, Open F1, Group C/Rolex up to 25,000 rpm, and Fly Trucks! Yes, for the first time in a long time, Semi's made it back onto the SOS32 schedule. It might have been the last race of the day, and perhaps the most intense for marshal's, but it was great to see them back on track. Many racers will work on putting in bigger wood guides for the next time, and there will be a next time, likely sooner than later. The day started with 50's & 60"s Sportscars and this class continues to get more competitive regardless if some BWA motors are better than others. Regardless of that, tuning still makes the most difference. The Scaley Stock Plus class may have been the most competitive class, and surprising how quick the cars are getting. The stock chassis, body, interior, and motor make for a great base. Tuner choices for pinion, gear, bushings, and wheels make for some wonderful, and quick, cars. Then it was time for Open F1. With so many new F1 cars on the market it seems senseless to try to create specific classes, so why not run an open class, which we now do on occasion. Seems now though that the Scaleauto F1 car looks to have a lot of potential! As fast as the F1 cars were, the days quickest laps still came from the Group C/Rolex class cars where our host finished a very impressive 2nd ... way to RT! Thanks again to our host for another day of great bagels, great cupcakes, great coffee, great racing on a great track, and, most importantly, a ton of fun with a great group of racers. And next time we race at Cupcake Raceway, sometime in April probably, it will be in the opposite direction. By: JCB   Classes: 1) Sports cars 2) Scaley Stock Plus 3) F1 Unlimited 4) Group C - Rolex (up to 25k motors) 5) Fly Trucks (stock motors & gearing)   Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3. Voltage set @ 10v Three marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order.   Thank you Rob for another fun day of racing and for your hospitality!  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: T32

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Aston Ulster PGP+ entry Hello gang, 1935 Aston Ulster 1.5L PGP+ entry, Matchbox kit... I believe driven in the 1935 'Targa Abruzzi" by Giovanni Lurani(private entry) but after much research, no pics to corroborate(need our historian to wade in and virtually zeroid on Racingsportscars and other sites), but perhaps my sleuthing skills ain't what they used to be.... :>)  Stupid question of the day...How do I add to model db? Thanks    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Need a Trike!! OK, perhaps a little late for this Christmas, but maybe next year... This is CRAZY AMAZING!!!   Brought a lot of smiles/laughter to me, hopefully same to you!!   WHo knew a Big Wheel could be sooo much fun!!     https://youtu.be/gz_271z1A2U

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • The 1954 Pegaso Z102 Cabriolet Saoutchik 2a Serie Street The Spanish company Pegaso is well-known for its trucks, busses and tractors but many people don't know that for a period of 7 years, the marque took a jaunt into the world of sportscar building – resulting in this, the Pegaso Z-102. This beautiful little car is the only Saoutchik Cabriolet Pegaso Z-102 Series II ever made, the coachwork on the body is jaw-dropping from every angle and the factory model was fitted with a 165hp, 2,814 cc quad-overhead camshaft V-8 with a 2-barrel Weber carburettor implies that it also has the legs to make it a hell of a fun drive. It was decided that the chassis, drivetrain and engine would all be built in house by Pegaso and then the rolling units would be shipped off to coachbuilders to have bodies fitted – in the tradition of pre-WWII automakers. This one-off Z-102 Series II Cabriolet was built by Saoutchik and was arguably the most beautiful of the 88 or so cars ever made by the company. In 2013 this model went for $700,000 USD at auction. Cut and paste this link on your browser to view it.   https://youtu.be/S1R2KPRz_B8 Some links with information and photos https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Paris_-_Retromobile_2014_-_Pegaso_Z-102_Série_II_cabriolet_-_1954_-_001.jpg https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Pegaso_Z-102 THIS BUILD The body of this model is from the Pegaso Collection by Top Slot.  It's a highly detailed & finished resin body with a production run of only 300 worldwide.  The model came with an MRRC Seabring chassis which didn't work very well with this heavy 50+ gram resin body.  I replaced the original chassis with a custom aluminum chassis and used my Dremel tool to carve out a lot of excess resin material under the hood, to give this model a chance at being a decently performing slot car.   The following are some photos of the model and the aluminum chassis.  White wall tires are Dart tires.      

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Copper Tape Maintenance This is for owners of DArt tracks or others with copper taped mdf/wood tracks... and these are just my suggestions for maintaining your tape which have worked for me over the years... With the change in seasons no matter how hermetically sealed your track space is you will notice a change in expansion rates between the mdf and tape... and it may be more pronounced when your track is newer... but have no fear - it is easily fixed. For routine maintenance especially before hosting a race I recommend doing the following: As for regular track maintenance: 1. Vacuum the track surface and each slot; 2. Using a clean but dry microfibre pad with broom handle (or a cloth) sweep the entire track surface; 3. Inspect the copper tape for any lifting... and using a BIC lighter carefully burnish any bubbles/folds back down so the tape is flat; 4. Repair any breaks or damage to the tape if any; 5. Turn track and timing software on to check that it works; 6. Run a stock scaley car slowly in each lane to make sure there are no dead spots between any previous tape repairs... if any dead spots then take a sharp exacto knife, locate the beginning and the end of the section that is dead (by moving the car along that section until power is interrupted) and pierce or stab more tiny holes in the tape that overlaps the original tape (usually a short length of 1 or 2 cm - note the small holes in that short length already); New tape repairs: 1. Bridge the dead length (or cut) with a 4 or 5 cm piece of tape overlapping the original tape by a couple of centimeters at each end; 2. Before applying the tape cut each end of the tape at a 45 degree angle using scissors; 3. Remove backing and apply tape making sure there is enough overlap; 4. Burnish the new tape using a BIC lighter; 5. Stab holes on both ends where the tape overlaps until power is restored to the dead length; 6. Apply a small bead of superglue to the edges of the newly applied tape and let dry.

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Willys Gasser Style Coupe More than a year has gone by since the initial post #17570... and in my spare time, I built a gasser. I was inspired by some of the photos I found on the web.  There are many. The body of my Gasser is a stock Carrera Willys coupe model with an aluminum chassis under it.                              The front sits high and can easily be modified by adjusting the length of the body posts. This will be done once the rules are                              determined.  At the moment this model can be raced in the hot rod class.                             The chassis is powered by a 14k ff motor.  The complete model tips the scale at 82 grams, making it a slow hot rod due to its weight disadvantage.  Depending on the final ride height, it will require weight to lower its COG which will likely put this model over 90 grams when complete.  I have a wider set of rear wheels for this model but I built it to meet our current HR rules until the Gasser rules are set.                            A the moment F1nutz and I will be racing only with each other... lets get building gents!

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Latest rendering Latest build from Spa Skunkwerks, who knew same in German as in English! :>) No special build, just FLY white kit 908/3, all my home made decals save for rondels...Accompanied in pics by prior ventures(not posted) Not perfect, need to perfect burnishing tape, negate 'bleed', but I think it passes the 3/30 litmus test, 3 feet away and 30KM LOL!! And evidently, I am driving it! Sadly, nowhere near performance of others built, have to spend some time(not too much) to figure out...

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • Honda RA 271 I have always liked the Honda F1 cars and own the excellent DArt Honda RA 273.  I purchased a "Munter" John Warren Honda RA271 kit over a year ago. The inserts provided were too large to fit the RS Slot 15 x 7 wheels so DArt inserts were used instead along with DArt tires, mirrors, and the red Sun off a DArt decal sheet The resin exhausts looked too fragile so I bent some copper wire and reproduced the exhaust system. The driver figure has seat belts molded in however I believe they were not used in the real world of 1964.  Since I was not aiming for total accuracy, I decided to use it along with a car # that was not used during the season. So here it is.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Nova Ridge Saturday October 15, 2022 Art Thanks again for hosting another day of racing at this fabulous venue.  Looking forward to the next one.   See attached the photo of the guide wire that just snapped off my Stratos G5 car.  This has always been an issue with these cars when using the stock set up with set screws.  Now I have a reason to swap the set screws with brass eyelets.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: R32

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Auto Union Type D – Dart Kit For this build, I have used the recently released Dart kit of the Auto Union Type D.  As usual, the quality of the kit is second to none and it comes with two driver busts and seat options, large wired inserts and a long styrene tube with two brass push in threaded inserts to be installed as body posts where needed. I decided to mate the body with an aluminium chassis (KRZ Design) that I made specifically for this model.  The BWA 14k ff motor is glued onto the chassis with 5 minute epoxy.  I decided to use wired wheels that were purchased from Pendle. You will note that there is the appearance of significant tire degradation to the front wheels on this model-it wasn't due to the photo taken after a race.  I'll be replacing these rubber tires that came with the wheels with Dart urethane that will be trued to the same size. The model as shown in the photos includes the smaller half bust that came with the kit but it is evident that this option requires a thick seat cushion otherwise the driver can barely see over the hood.  I'll be replacing the half bust with a modified full body to achieve the most realistic result. The model runs very well, and is competitive, with my Auto Union Type C and Mercedes Benz W125.  Based on early test results, this type D outpaces the other two. A new entry for the next Coppa D PGP+ race with Tazio Nuvolari behind the wheel to join Bernd Rosemeyer in the type C and Rudolf Caracciola in the W125. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Dart Hobbies Porsche 804 Four years ago, I read Art's post on how to prepare the Dart Porsche 804 kit and I immediately  wanted one. Followed most of his advice and placed  it over a simple chassis - from a simple mind. Originally it had an AB Slot motor bracket but I was never happy with the performance.  I have since built a new chassis with a homemade motor plate allowing me to angle the motor and achieve a lower ground clearance.  Just waiting use it in a race.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 3D Printed body’s Good morning everyone, It's been awhile since I've posted anything on the site.  I hope everyone is doing well. We can all thank JCB for this find.  Click on the link below to view a new site with 3D printed models for scratch building.  There are a few Citroen models, a Mini, a Holden, a Ford, a lotus 30, a Fiat 1600, Aston Martin DB5 and a few more... https://www.3dprintable.shop/?fbclid=IwAR27xQBEprdHvyfSQhSKX9Blg2hgX2KQ0biJseL9NFMKMYR6GPfksNH1QL0

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa Build I was fortunate enough to get 2-unbuilt Corvair kits at the same time. The best of everything from the two went to Art. I'm building this one as a test. This one was missing the front bumper, which isn't really an issue for a Corvair race car. Art has the front bumper to make complete Corsa kits. The paint is Testors "Star Spangled Blue". The colour on lid looks great. The nonsense coming out of the can is another thing altogether. :negative: More to follow...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 1971 Porsche 908/3 double fin model This model is my attempt at building the Porsche 908/3 double fin model driven by J. Siffert and B. Redman in the 1971 Targa Florio; the no. 7 car with  with the Gulf Livery. I began with a white kit, painted the body light Blue using Testors paint which was the best match. Painted green around the front grill I haven't waxed and buffed the car yet, so there are some fingerprints and smudge marks on the body. This model is currently paired with a white (hard) NSR plastic chassis but it also has a custom built aluminium chassis in a SW configuration. Thanks for building the aluminium chassis Ken. Thanks for looking!    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Rebuild of GT40 white kit A few years ago I built a white kit for a GT40 and painted it yellow with black hood.  I decided to rebuild this car and do a better job on the livery since the original project fell short of expectations and I was never happy with it.  ... I disassembled the car, removed the driver, cockpit, windshield, lights, grills, etc.  I submerged the yellow livery into a tub of Superclean for 48-72 hours to remove the paint and decals, and scrubbed the body clean with a toothbrush until all the paint was removed. These photos are of the original build that I wasn't happy with. I decided to rebuild the car and copy the #130 - GT40 livery that ran in the 1967 Targa Florio. The freshly repainted body, pearl white with black headlights, hood air intake and rear. I think the second attempt turned out a little better... there were some mistakes made with gluing the body together originally that could not be rectified but the final result was improved.  The body sits on a plastic chassis for the moment, a scratch chassis is a possibility in the distant future.  There are many other projects already in the queue that are a priority. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ferrari 330 P4 – #224 Well this is a build of a Policar white kit of a Ferrari 330 P4 that I have built in my spare time during the second wave of the lockdown. I decided to build the car that ran in the 1967 Targa Florio #224                         The kit came with two rear motor covers; one with an indented channel and one that is an inverted concave that is used on the stock RTR model. In order to achieve the look of the targa model, I had to cut the roof off the plastic kit and I used the motor cover with the inverted channel.  I then cut a small piece of styrene building siding to fit the channel and glued it into place.  Perfect look to match the original model.  I could take this one step further and paint the vertical bits black but they look good already as they are. These photos were taken prior to the installation of the wiper and headlight lenses.   No chassis built yet, this model sits on a plastic chassis at the moment. Here is the built model next to the stock model that comes RTR with full roof Ready to race.... zoom zoom! Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD.  Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • McLaren Elva Mk1 Another spare time build The McLaren Elva Mk1 This is my second build of an Elva Mk1 model.  This is a fantasy livery. Having considered many different options, I decided to go with a pearl white and a dull red two tone livery.  Printed some decals off the internet. This model requires a bit of care in some areas like the spare wheel in front of the driver that must be hand painted.  The kit comes with tall and short stacks, I used the short stacks on my previous build, I went with the tall stacks for this model. I like the look of the tall stacks. This model sits on a plastic chassis for now. The two Elva's side by side.    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1969 and 1971 British Saloon car championship at Crystal Palace See the two links attached which feature the 1969 and 1971 British Saloon Car championship at Crystal Palace.  This is a 15 lap race (16 minutes) that includes Trans Am cars with 5 + litre engines vs Mini's and Escorts with 2 litre engines.  I believe the 1971 race has been posted on our site in the past, I am reposting it as it is one of my Fav's; its literally nose to tail, for the entire race, lots of fun to watch. 1971 British saloon car championship at Crystal Palace https://youtu.be/cawBXWWgqCI 1969 Crystal Palace British championship https://youtu.be/VmQinURuMgU  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Porsche 550 Spyder No.351 as entered the 1954 Mille Miglia open-road endurance I've had this Revell model of the 550 Porsche Spyder sitting on my shelf for a few years; I decided to build an aluminium chassis for it.  This is one of the aluminium chassis I built myself.  Note, I am using PM brass bushings front and rear. This model will fall into the unlimited sports car field, it is set up with a Scalextric ff motor in an anglewinder configuration with a 10 pinion, 29 spur.  Nice quiet gear mesh, runs very well, turning lap times equivalent to a stock group C car in its first few laps.  I think there is room for improvement with the addition of some weight.  I may decide to convert it to an inline configuration after some additional testing.  It's pretty simple with this chassis design, just pop the glued in motor out using a screw driver, mix a new batch of epoxy and glue it in again in the desired configuration.  A 10 to 15 minute process. The car is set up with MRRC wheels; 13.6 x 5mm fronts and 13.6 x 7 mm rear.  These are very nice wheels, designed to take many different size inserts, they are available with a long or short boss, these have the short boss for easy access and they use a 2.6mm set screw which does not strip very easily. A great looking model. Some additional shaping work is required to conceal the chassis it will be cut into a pointed configuration at the rear and painted black. Look forward to racing this model soon... ZOOM ZOOM!    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1955 Belgian Grand Prix and 1966 Belgian Grand Prix Reminiscent of days gone bye See attached short 30 minute film of the 1955 Belgian Grand Prix where Fangio and Stirling Moss finish first and second for the Mercedes team.  A brilliant film highlighting 1950's front motor GP cars and the old SPA track.  The fans are all wearing their Sunday best.  Terrific! https://youtu.be/7exBtOgys7I   A 4 minute clip of the Belgian Grand Prix eleven years later.  The race begins 1.5 minutes in-featured first is a fabulous pre-race onboard lap with sound.  AMAZING cinematography and shots from ground level in the thick of the race that was filmed by Phill Hill's camera car and also from the air in a helicopter which zooms into a side pan of the #6 car racing through the straights at top speed.  The sound cuts out after the first 1.5 minutes but the cinematography is incredible, this is a must see.   Due to a flash rainstorm, there was a major crash in the opening laps of this race which included Jo Bonnier in his #20 Cooper at the Burnenville corner.  Jackie Stewart driving the #15 BRM crashed on the first lap at the Masta Kink and landed in a ditch where he was stuck upside down in his car for about 25 minutes. https://youtu.be/RCgmdy0jD4I Enjoy!

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • HOT ROD – 1932 Plymouth I bought this kit from Ken a couple of months ago, a perfect candidate for a Hot Rod build.  Inspired by Ken's candy apply red, I painted the car gold first, then red to get the candy apple finish. The body sits on an aluminium chassis, that I custom built. This is Lindberg Kit no. 2143 The plastic model motor was taken from another Lindberg kit and glued to the front of the chassis.  SCC steel wheels up front and wider 14" x 8mm rear MRRC wheels.  The rear hubs are also taken from another Lindberg kit and required some sanding to size. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to enlarge the rear wheel wells.  It allowed me to lower the body over the rear wheels. I cut the front side quarter panels to expose the model motor that I painted and glued to the chassis.   The white glue is still drying on the front windshield, once dry it will be less visible. I will be adding a number of additional details and will go over the body and complete a few touch ups. I can say that this is a very nice handling car, a pleasure to drive. Thanks for looking.   P.S. If you are thinking of building a car but keep putting it off because you believe that your building ability falls short of your expectations or standards, I say forge ahead.  Expect to make mistakes-you may scrap a few chassis before you get it right but just keep pushing ahead until you finish building your car.  You will learn from your build and will take that knowledge to your next build which will be easier...  Don't be afraid to begin, just do it and stop procrastinating.  Your experience will yield you a model you can drive at one of the upcoming events, and that will be very rewarding.            

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • #40 – 1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 This build is the famous #40-1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 which has been has in progress for more than six, months due to delays with the decals arriving in a timely manner due to the pandemic.  I custom designed and printed decals for this model.  The orange section in front of the car will be painted on as it proved to be impossible to get a decals to adhere to this area in an acceptable manner. Photos of the actual car     My attempt The body has been paired with a custom built aluminium chassis - 100% built by the JMS garage.  The 21.5k Piranha motor has been glued onto the chassis in an AW configuration.  Originally I had used a 12T pinion, which was switched to 11T to get more brake. This photo with windshield and gas caps installed. Ready to race... zoom, zoom. Thanks for looking.    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special As previously announced, see attached photos of the completed model of the 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special.  This model placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500 with Jim Rathmann at the wheel. This model will be run with a custom built Aluminium chassis. The BWA ff050 motor is glued into place with epoxy as is the plastic bracket holder for the extended motor arm/shaft and pinion.  A touch of solder was applied to each side of the spring supporting the extended motor shaft. A photo of the body kit. The parts have all been painted in this photo, including the seat, driver, all silver parts and inserts.  The inserts do not fit the RS slot wheels, Dart inserts will be used instead. The wheels are RS slot 15x7mm rear and 15x5mm front.  Rear tires are the new Dart D7.5.  The trued diameter is 23.40mm for the rear and 21.2mm for the front.  Track width is 53.65mm rear and 52mm front. Thanks for looking.              

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • NEW Slot Track in GTA opening Some of you will have heard this already.  Chris announced on a Slot Forum that Ernie Mosettis' is opening a new slot club that will be located just north of Racehaven.  There will be two tracks; a routed track and a 135 foot Policar plastic track.  See link below for photos. https://www.hrwforum.com/forum/hrw-scale-forums/slot-car-news/48664-new-toronto-area-commercial-track-shop#post48748

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • HOW WE TALLY FINAL RACE RESULTS For most members, building is a work in progress and it takes time to built up a full inventory of cars to race at every event, especially with this group which has over twenty classes and counting.  Members must be encouraged to build as much as possible and allowed to race their builds as much as possible.  Having fun should always be the main driver that is given greatest weight by all. I realize this may be a controversial issue but it is not intended to be..., I am raising it only from the point of view of fairness.  Fairness is the central theme that we base all our rules on and is also the main point considered in any type of racing.  I ask that all members put on your stewards hat and consider this topic without any bias.  Assume that you are the adjudicating panel of a racing body,  your mandate is to decide what is the fair and proper course of action.  I would hope that whatever is decided by the group be applied to future events and will not have any bearing on past events. Currently, all members race the cars that they have built and registered for any particular event.  If a member has built only one car, and there are four separate races held at one event, then that member may race their only model in all four races as a separate entrant.  At present, that members best result from all four separate races with the same car will be awarded, against all the other members that have not had an opportunity to race the same car repeatedly, in multiple races.  The final result awarded to all other members is the result they achieved in only one race-their first and only race with that car. 1) Is the current award method fair to all? 2) Should we continue to award a racer on this basis or would it be more fair for each individual car to be permitted to race as many races as there are at any one event but the result awarded that car should be the result achieved from only the first race that car raced?  In other words, after the first race, the member will be allowed to race their car as often as they want in the remaining races but in terms of keeping score, that car will only be considered as a place holder after its first race, it's subsequent race result will not count in the final tally. I look forward to an open discussion on this topic.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: R32

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building.  Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960).  Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy.  A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor.  I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it.  The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view...  The lighting is poor in this photo.  Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann   My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week.  Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 13
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1954 Ferrari 250 MONZA This car was originally intended to be the #22 car that raced in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana.  I had prepared and printed the decals about 2 years ago along with the #21 for its sister car as a back up and then I placed it on my to do list.  A couple of months ago I had commissioned Ken to build a chassis for this car and during this process, I discovered that he too was working on building the same car.  Having printed decals for both models, I gave him the #22 set and finished the car as #21. There are many photos of the #21 car as a model, but I was not able to uncover any of real McCoy.  Here is one of the photos of the model. Here is my attempt. There is some orange peel... the paint was completed a few years ago, the model was converted to a 250 Monza and the scratch built chassis switched to a new aluminium chassis.  One additional decal will be placed over the rear wheel well.  I did consider dunking it into super clean and starting from scratch agin but the front grill, windscreen and driver were already installed.  Some modifications were required to the air intake on the hood and the side openings. The aluminium chassis built by Ken's garage.  Some fine work happens in that garage...  This is an ad for Ken's garage... ;-) A brass plate is added for weight and to balance the car and to give it better handling into corners.  The plate is held in place by two screws and can be switched with a smaller lighter plate. Thanks for looking            

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Lotus 25 This is a super shells Lotus 25 body married to a simple scratch built brass and piano wire chassis.  The decals applied to this body are from a 1965 Indianapolis Lotus 38. This is a 1.5L car, therefore it is set up with a BWA motor, geared 10P x 23. I wasn't satisfied with the first paint, so the body was soaked in super clean overnight, scrubbed clean and remanded, then repainted. The second attempt. The completed project. Ready to be raced Thanks for looking    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Cooper Ford This is a Cooper Ford that I had painted a few years ago and ran with an MRRC chassis but was not satisfied with the finished product.  I repainted the car and married it with a aluminium chassis built by Ken.  The car is powered by a 14k motor glued to the chassis and geared 10P x 23. I forgot to install the lenses ...   Thanks for looking  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 3
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Strombecker McLaren M1B     Strombecker made some of the nicest molds, and the McLaren M1B, was one of their nicest, and very much to scale,....it is a tiny little bugger !! It really does not look all that great in stock form, sitting high, and without any details/decals. Anyway, it has been sitting in my workroom for eons, and with the forced hometime we are all enduring, I have decided to make it my next build. Trying to make this..............this one is not mine, unfortunately mine is a little worse for wear.......... Into something like this................so a few bits to be made/added. I started with the chassis, as I find these the easy part of the job..........a simple single rail chassis with .047 main rails, set for 2mm+ clearance with 19+ mm tyres. This will be powered by a  FF050 motor. I have started the bodywork........removed all bits, opened the vents, (as they should be , they were closed in the original), and added a front diaplane, and a rear spoiler. Still a lot of clean up to do...........but the rear molded in screens/vents have been opened as on the original. The car is tiny,....I think I mentioned that,.....luckily the shortest wheelbase setting on my jig was perfect !! Still miles to go, but, I will post updates...... Stay Safe Chris Walker

      Started by: Anonymous in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 30
    • 3 years ago

      Anonymous

    • 1951 Tudor I thought I might as welladd my Tudor as well. The colour is a proxy for the Ford colour plalette of the era albeit a few shades lighter.  The car  weighs in at 82 grams, 10/30 gearing, motor is a Scaly S can.  The car runs @ 7.5 secs on my track (which is a bit longer but less technical than The Ring).  My original Tudor runs an 8 sec with  BWA motor.  Pic to follow.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • 1963 Thunderbird This is a 1/32 scale Gunze Sangyo model kit.  I had never heard of these model kits until I saw three models that Ken had built a few months ago.  I was inspired by the quality of the parts and the fine details incorporated in this kit and I always loved the look of the Thunderbird.  The model falls into the new category of Boulevard Cruisers. A special thanks to Ken who assisted with the chassis build and was a great painting coach. The model comes with a back seat and roof.  I preferred the look of the convertible with two seats and head rests. The BWA Scan motor is glued to the chassis using epoxy in an anglewinder configuration.  Geared 14 pinion x 30 spur gear. Here is the model with a headless driver.  I considered installing a female as the pilot in this model but didn't have a usable torso with bust, therefore A street version pilot without a Helmut will be installed.  The kit comes with two different sets of chrome wheels, I carved out the inserts and will be using them to finish this model. Very pleased with how well this car runs.  I think the headless driver would have been pulled over for high speed driving if the cops weren't in lockdown mode ;-). Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1963 Cheetah A little History After Ford had retained Carroll Shelby to build a car that would beat Ferrari at LeMans, GM hired Bill Thomas in 1963 to build a style machine that would compete with the Shelby Mustang and Cobra.  Thomas was nicknamed Mr. Corvette for having achieved almost 100 victories with Corvettes he built to race.  Bill Thomas parlayed his Corvette success with GM into a contract as a performance guru.  He ended up building between 10 and 27 Cheetah's.  One model was used in the Elvis Presley movie spin out in 1965.  Early models of the car DNF races in 1963 due to crashes or mechanical failures.  The most successful Cheetah's were driven by Ralph Salyer who won 11 major USRRC races in 1964 and many local and minor events across the USA between 1964 and 1967.  Salyer's race car #25 was also known as the Pro-Sal Cheetah, named after its mechanic Gene Crowe as well as Salyer. This model is my attempt at the #64 - 1963 Cheetah built by Bill Thomas Prior to applying decals A can of Tamiya was used - Italian Red; to paint this model. The Body kit is from MRRC The body was mounted to an MMRC sebring chassis that was assembled with to match wheel base of body and a brass tube was glued in place to support the front axel  These chassis are the best plastic chassis for the Sport Car class in my opinion. Front Wheels RSslot  - RSW005 - 13' x 5mm wide Rear Wheels RSslot - RSW006 - 13" x 7mm wide Vanski Motor 14,000 RPM; Gearing 10P x 23 offset Weighs 62 grams complete "as is".  Some weight will be added although none is required, the car runs very well and handles well as is.    

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1949 Ford Tudor in orange This 1949 Lindberg Ford Tudor Coupe might be the most prolific model in this club with many fine examples.  Having built two already, I had a third kit sitting in my cabinet for about three years.  Due to an abundance of time with the shelter in place orders, I circled my wagons back to it and decided it would make a bright hot rod with a BWA slimline motor. Many thanks to Ken, who took the time to assist on this build. The BWA motor is simply glued onto the chassis with epoxy.  Gearing is 10P x 23P Looking forward to racing this model. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Avoiding dust in paint This is just about my bad experiences with dust. Not how to apply paint. There's no bigger dissapointment than leaving your paint almost perfect with the last wave of the spray can and coming back to... fresh paint covered with dust or pet hair. I had to sit back and think of the many possible reasons that could affect the final finish. Any one alone could easily ruin a paint-job. 1) Dog 2) Cat 3) Shop tools (bandsaw, belt sander) 4) Forced air heat/AC 5) My wife doing things around the house such as laundry 6) My own clothes I created a system to try and combat every possible angle I could think of. This is starting out with a body that's already prepared for paint. The basement kitchen fan is used to evacuate the fumes. The entire area around and behind the oven-top is lined with cardboard and black garbage bags. Now I can explain a process that seems to work for this household. 1) I start the basement kitchen fan around 10PM. Throw a paint can on a stirring device. Then go upstairs closing the door behind me to leave the basement undisturbed until midnight (No pets allowed). The kitchen fan has time to remove ambient dust around the paint area. 2) I turn the heat/AC off around 11PM. 3) At around midnight the rest of the house goes to bed and I slowly and carefully make my way to basement closing the door behind me to keep the pets upstairs. I walk very slowly to prevent stirring dust up from the floor. 4) I head to the landry room first to put on a fresh T-shirt and jeans. Pet hair is the worst! 5) I give the body a fresh wash. Then rinse in filtered water to avoid residue. Dry the body with a dust-free towel. It's ready for paint. 6) Heat the can that's been stirring for the last 2-hours in hot water for 2-minutes. It's ready to paint. I paint the body with 4-coats using a 1-minute timer between coats. After 4-minutes of painting I slowly walk back upstairs, close the basement door, and watch TV for an hour. After an hour I turn the heat/AC back on and go check the paint. Hopefully I go to bed with a smile. I installed exhaust outlets on my belt sander and bandsaw that fit the shop-vac to help keep the residual shop dust down. But prefer not to cut or sand anything the day I paint a body. I wish everyone the best of luck in finding your own way to paint without that dreaded dust thing. :good:  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 7
    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Keeping track of paint cans Running out of paint near the end of painting a car will ruin a paint job. A full can of Tamiya spray paint ranges from 133-grams to 138-grams. Empty, the can weighs 60-grams. (cap included) It takes more paint to cover a car when you make an extreme colour change. It also take more paint to cover a car when you use paints that are weak in pigment strength like yellow. You can sometimes get 2-paint jobs out of a can of paint if you don't fight the colour. Sometimes it's just not possible. I weigh the cans before, and after using them to see if there's enough paint for a second car. For me, the can becomes touch-up paint only once they go below 95-grams. Specially yellow. The last 5 to 7-grams grams of any can are often not useful because the spray becomes erratic near the end. All used cans get marked with a permanent marker stating the weight, and are weighed with the cap on. Testors paint cans are about the same. Best of luck with what ever you're painting and building!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 4
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ferrari 158 This is the Dart kit Ferrari 158. This particular model is of the winning car as driven in the 1964 Italian GP by John Surtees; #2.  JS was also the winner of the F1 Championship in 1964. The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and some brass.  Bearings were used in the rear, a square brass tube was used to support the front axel.  Silver foil packaging material from a pharmaceutical product was used to cover the top of the front axel and cut in the shape of the front assembly.  The same foil was used to create the floor in the cockpit. This model is built as a 1.5L GP and is powered by a BWA slim motor, geared 10 pinion by 23 offset crown. A single brass screw is used to secure the body to the chassis.  The body fits snugly in place with the rear assembly around the motor preventing any movement in the rear. A black twist tie was used to hold up the bottom of the motor between the two rear exhaust pipes-glued in place to bottom of motor and exhaust pipes.  Two polished aluminium extension pipes were glued to the ends of the exhaust pipes that came with the kit.  The motor that came with the kit was modified to fit together and two piano wires were inserted into drilled holes and glued into both sides of the motor to hold it in place.  The other ends of the piano wire were soldered onto the rear upright assembly.  The motor is attached to the chassis, the body floats freely above it but there is virtually no movement as the body is held firmly by the single screw up front and the piano wire at the rear which connects to the rear upright assembly. After applying the decals, I brushed on a coat of future to seal the decals and give the car a glossy finish.  One drop of windex was added to my future mix to prevent yellowing down the road. My camera and lighting could be better.  This model is much more attractive in the flesh. Initial test lap results indicate that this car will be a contender.  I think there is room for improvement. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed...  The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Shadow DN1 This build is of the Dart Shadow DN1 - 1973 GP The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and brass. Added rear suspension detail George Follmer is behind the wheel in this model Rear view with suspension.  Should have cleaned the tire dust from running test laps.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 2
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Indianapolis Brabham Ford I picked up this kit at last years show, it was sitting in a box calling to be built.  There's a time and a place for everything..., decided to give it a go. This model ran in the 1960's, so it has been built using the 3L GP spec's. I'll be adding a steering wheel and dashboard. A simple brass piano wire chassis.. will likely add front suspension to this model. A very simple build.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 2
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 12
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

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