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    • Adding a Face & Shield to that Helmet For Targa V I re-entered my Porsche 908/2 with pilot Gijs van Lennop (red helmet) at the wheel but felt that another racing upgrade was necessary - not to the motor or chassis - but to the pilot's helmet. The DArt HT70 comes in two pieces - helmet and opaque visor - so I decided to remove the visor and add some facial detail by cutting a cross section of HD05 - enough to fit inside the helmet - which I painted complete with fire resistant balaclava. I sliced off both sides of the original opaque visor, painted them flat black and added them to either side of the visor gap, but before doing so made a template from which to cut the visor. I hate working with thin pieces of brittle transparency and so for the visor I decided to experiment with something much easier to cut and handle... Using the template I traced and cut out a slightly larger piece from a clear plastic bag (yes - the same bags that all of the DArt parts come in) and placing a very small drop of clear epoxy on either side (where the visor pivots would be) I added the clear plastic visor making sure that it was tight across the face of the helmet as the glue set. After this dried a small drop of silver paint would be added on either side of the visor as visor pivots and to help cover up where the epoxy was applied. The upgraded visor and helmet performed flawlessly - and more are on my 'to do' list for other models. :yes: Total cost was $3.50 (HT70 $2.50 + HD05 $1 + bag they both come in)...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Figures132 I took the liberty to combine these previously posted pics for Figures132 on behalf of Michael Dark. You may have taken the time to notice a few photographers around the Ring courtesy Bob... Should you be interested in any of these please contact Michael directly. I'll leave it to him to reply with his preferred link should he wish to fulfill any orders... in the past he has provided both unpainted and painted versions... not cheap but well worth every cent!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Scenerize It

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Coppa D’oro Trials Some time was found to run trials for the new Scratch32 Golden Era Pre-War models - and so the Coppa D'oro was born.[foogallery id="8039"] After nearly a century it is never too late...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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      AvatarArthur

    • Motor Testing Many of you have already seen this I'm sure, but for those who haven't and are interested, and as it came up in conversation recently, a link to Bob Livingston's excellent article on motor testing. Scroll down through it and you get a good explanation of setup and how he tested RPM and Torque, and how torque was tested at lower voltages and then given an appropriate multiplying factor. This seemed to be an acceptable practice. If not entirely accurate, results with the same equipment and methodology should at least be relatively accurate. Setup's are relatively easy to duplicate should you be interested in doing it yourself. http://slotcarnews.blogspot.com/2007/02/slot-car-news-motor-list.html If anyone is further interested I could see if I could find the manufacturers graphs showing the same thing wrt torque.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Slot Car Resources

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      AvatarPeter Langlois

    • An ALLARD – KURTIS SPECIAL? PANAMERICANA ? An ALLARD - KURTIS SPECIAL - PANAMERICANA ?   Fantasy . Hi guy's, I'm well new here and came across some nice coloured photo's of A K Miller's "Iron Horse" and also noticed in my book, that Tony Bettenhausen had run a Kurtis - Chrysler in the 1953 La Carrera. Now I don't know of any 1/32 kit's for the above BUT I do know George Turner Model's produces a very nice Allard J 2, that I fancy getting. (Big smile). So a few pic's off Google and maybe an up-date of a build in 12 month's time. The GTM in it's wooden 'buck' format. The Resin model, with co-driver. The Inspiration. A Kurtis - Lincoln 1954   Although there are quite a few photo's of Tony Bettenhausen's Kurtis - Chrysler # 21 on Google, I was unable to 'lift' any.  

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Scratch Built Models

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      AvatarArthur

    • Ford V8 Special – #32 – Ireneu Correa – 1935 Rio Grand Prix Many consider Ireneu Correa as the 'grandfather' of Brazilian motor racing since he was the first Brazilian to win an international race - the 1934 Rio Grand Prix - which was raced on the lengthy Gavea course. A little history on the Rio Grand Prix can be found here. South American racers who competed in early motor sport events throughout the Americas favoured and raced North American models right up to the outbreak of the second world war and this was particularly true for Correa until his death in 1935. These models were not elegant - they were in fact very hard to look at - but in the 1930's they achieved successes in part because their competition was focused on motor sporting events back on the European continent. But by the mid to late 30's European entries would begin to dominate major south American events such as the Rio Grand Prix. Correa trained in the United States as a mechanic in order to modify and prepare his own race cars. The entry which he prepared for his return as Champion of the Rio Grand Prix in 1935 was yet another Ford - a V8 Special - entered as #32. Unfortunately on the first lap while chasing the race leader Correa would skid out of control and hit a tree launching his car into the canal - an accident that he would not survive. Believe it or not his car would return to race again but became known as 'the cursed car' after killing another pilot. And so with that historical perspective in mind I decided to kitbash a Lindberg Ford kit into something unusual to compete against a deluge of European models for a new 'pre-war' class - an early to mid '30's Ford V8 Special, as prepared and raced by Correa in the 1935 Rio Grand Prix. I'm not a rivet counter or a scale fanatic nor do I believe that a slot car must be as detailed as a static model so I kept an open mind when planning the chassis, but first I would have to bash a body. My priority was for this car to look right when circling the track. That being said I still wanted the model to be as close to scale and as detailed as possible. It was also imperative that the guide be hidden as much as possible and not be visible at all when viewed from above. I shortened, lowered and narrowed the back of the kit body and then fabricated the rear end using styrene sheet and tubing to make the extra fuel tank and crown gear cover (to which the spare tire would be fixed) and wrapped it with a thin piece of L shaped styrene stock. The interior floor was raised in the centre to accommodate the FF050 motor and two DArt racing seats were modified to fit side by side. At the front I added a few styrene plates to cover the gaps left underneath the motor covers along with a few body flaps where the windscreen used to be. I used as much of the frame that came with the kit as I could - and left the fender seam and the trim underneath the front grill. The rear of the frame together with the bottom of the fuel tank (I think that is what it is) was cut off and added underneath the new rear end. The rest of the kit would be tossed except for the steering wheel, shifter, brake and dashboard.  A complete DArt 'Nouvolari' driver figure would lose its head in favour of another DArt replacement. and that would come later. When I was finished I was left with two pieces - the complete body, floor and rear end and the separate frame which could be glued to the body after paint. I turned 5 wheels to 16.5 x 5.3mm which would accommodate a set of DA0210 urethane tires and DArt spoked inserts. I know these inserts have too many spokes but I liked their overall look and how they extended well beyond the wheel flange. I also cut off the ears leaving just a small round cap at the centre instead of the original two eared knock off. In order to ensure that the installation of each insert (after paint) would go without a hitch I drilled out material from the backside in the centre of each insert to accommodate any small extension of the axle and the washer for independent fronts. The overall diameter of these wheels with tires mounted and trued was 23mm. With dimensions of the body and wheels now in hand it was time to plan the chassis. I fabricated a small motor bracket for the BWMS050 motor and would use two sizes of piano wire and brass tubing to join everything together. I went with very small Slot.It bushings at the rear in order to give me flexibility in mounting the rear of the body. Due to the ride height of the chassis and with several parts needing to be attached at different levels this chassis took a little more planning to make sure it would turn out right - measure twice, cut once. The motor would sit 3mm below the chassis and the guide sleeve 5mm below. The chassis didn't need to be too strong since it was for a low power motor and a lightweight body - and was never travelling to a proxy race. I decided to mount the body using some styrene tube into which the chassis would 'snap' at the rear and a #226 styrene post up front into which the 'V' shaped wire brace would be secured with a single screw. Material was removed from these three contact points until the ride height was where I wanted it and there was enough body float. Urethane DArt washers would allow sufficient body float and prevent the screw from ever backing out of the brass insert. My own research didn't turn up much to assist with this project so I needed to improvise and make educated guesses where appropriate. With a Brazilian owner/pilot it was more than likely that this model would have raced with a pale yellow body on top of a green frame/chassis with black numbers. I sprayed the wheels a lighter shade of green and weathered them with several washes of dirt. The body was sprayed yellow and then the paint was sanded using 1200 wet paper to give the finish a dull, worn and weathered look. Since I used grey primer underneath the colour changes slightly depending on how much paint was removed. Everything else was hand painted. Number decals were printed on my inkjet printer and sealed using Crystal Clear - and then applied. Nothing was used to seal or coat the decals after they were applied but I still might apply some Micro Set decal sealer by hand... I made a small cover from large styrene tubing which I painted flat black and glued to the front of the guide to hide the clips when viewed from the front. Other details included the textured belt and buckle and a spare with a small aluminium rod that was bent and fixed to the centre of the hub which secured the wheel on the real car. I planned to add a second tire underneath the spare but have not done so (yet).  The chassis components for this model: BWMS050 w10t brass pinion x 28t Slot.It crown (for now - gearing will be changed though); DArt 16.5mm x 5.3mm wheels with DArt inserts; DArt DA0210 urethane tires; Slot.It rear bushings and PM axles; Scalextric Round Guide with Slot.It braid and generic silicone lead wire; The basic specs (at present): 60.3g overall weight; Track: front = 53mm / rear=52mm (excluding inserts); Wheelbase: 80mm (83mm from guide); Chassis Clearance: 8mm / Min. Clearance: 5mm (at motor/bracket); The driver still needs a pair of goggles and a co-pilot is in the works too but there is no rush now that the model is ready for action. For more pictures of this eyesore visit our model gallery here.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Vintage A great initial get together for the 1934 Correa Ford V8 Special from the Rio GP and Sir Tim's 1930 4 1/2L Blower Bentley from LeMans!!!  Both ran remarkably well while still maintaining their correct 'tall' appearance. Maybe even more remarkable was that despite a big dis-similarity in weight, size, motor and gearing, both cars made similar enough lap times that racing will actually be feasible and fun and they looked spectacular together on the track!! World's apart as 1:1 racers, but they didn't appear inappropriate together today. This is going to be fun!! :yahoo:

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Chassis acceptability Art, quick question.  To finish my 356 I used a Strombecker brass chassis with some modification.  So is a custom body mated to a Strombecker brass chassis eligible for scratch 32?  I am thinking not but wanted to check as I thought that was dealt with on the Forum but couldn't locate it.  Thanks

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      DBDB

    • Ferrari 750 Monza Scaglietti Here is an extensively modified Ferrari 290MM body kit which was turned into a 750 Monza as raced by Fon Portago in the final edition of La Carrera Panamericana. A single plastic exhaust (with exposed muffler) is used on the left hand side - and the exposed tail pipe is aluminium tube attached to the chassis. And in an effort to keep the look of this model period any temptation to lower or slam the body was snuffed - there is room above the motor to lower the body - but that would just not look right. This model in its current configuration utilizes an 18k Ninco large can motor for competition in the SP+ class. The added RPM (and torque) offset its overall weight (115g) to make this model perform and handle exceptionally well.  "Look Ma - No Screws!" The body is attached to the chassis using one of my favourite methods - hinged side pods glued to balsa wood (epoxy) - using piano wire sleeved with brass tube inside brass tube on either side... The beauty is that all you need to do to remove the body is pull out the flexible wire tabs from brass tubes attached to the rear bushing uprights... no screws to fiddle with, work loose or lose on track... Just a simple wire/brass chassis with your basic .032" brass tongue front end and flat brass motor bracket to allow the motor/pinion to be swapped out. All of these parts were made using household hand tools although a trip to the garage to the drill press would have been quicker... square Parma oilite bushings were used at the rear. The angled wire braces on either side of the motor sit very tight to the motor giving the chassis added stiffness. The motor itself is angled slightly downwards towards the front of the chassis, both to lower the COG and to ensure the pinion is properly lined up with the crown gear.  Round oilite bushings holding the front axle are reinforced with a 'chuck' bar soldered to each bushing and to the brass plate. The guide is a clone of the Ninco classic guide made by DArt. Crown gear is slot.it 28t, axles are professor motor, a DuBro #2 washer is soldered to the end of the front axle for independents, all four wheels are modified BWA, inserts and urethane tires are DArt - the tires are the club series tamper proof marked DArt CT0101 tire using a 1/8" white dot through the meat... which were leftovers from a past MiniGrid order. ...gearing and motor can yet be changed to increase performance - this chassis should be able to comfortably handle any motor up to 25k... and one day it might... :good:  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Replacement LED GU10 Bulbs Not necessarily a workbench essential but a race room lighting essential... Those of us who have race rooms using GU10 halogen bulbs whether recessed or on tracks who are looking for an energy saving, warm glow and compatible dimmable LED alternative when replacing existing 50w halogen bulbs should try the Philips 4.5w LED Soft White Light Dimmable Flood GU10 bulbs. They are 380 Lumens and behave the same as original halogen bulbs throughout the dimming range - much to my surprise - so much so that you will not notice any difference in light quality if you use them to replace blown bulbs here and there as they go like I am doing... Available at Home Depot they are just under $17 for a three pack... and they will probably outlast me... The Home Depot Article/Product Number/SKU (in case you wish to order online) is: 1001065206  with the following description: LED 50W GU10 Soft White WG GLS 3Pk 

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarPeter Langlois

    • Value Village – limited supply of 1/32 and 1/25 kits My local Value Village has a supply of kits.  Most are 1/25  for less than $10 - Revell, AMT, Linburgh.  If I was into that scale I would have bought them. What I did pick up were 3 1/32 scale Testors "Turn of the Century Automobiles",   A 1930 Packard, 1934 Duesenburg and a 1935 Duesenburg SSJ.  $3.99 each.  The bodies are die cast metal.  I had thoughts of converting to a slot car but they are heavy (close to 150 grams) so I am not sure how practical that is. Anybody have any experience in doing that sort of conversion.   But the parts are worth the purchase - plastic wheels, bumpers, engines, mirrors etc.  Probably build them as static model for the layout.   Here are a few pics of  the 1930 and 1935 models. Folks might want to swing by their local  VV to see what they have as the part might be useful for your pre war builds.  :yes: ?

      Started by: DBDB in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32   (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34  Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires.   Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit:   Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements.   It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.)         Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix.  

      Started by: FelixFelix in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Country Colour Reference Chart A quick and useful guide (attached below in .pdf format) for those of you who are considering applying colours - especially if your only resources are black and white photographs without written detail. If you discover that anything in this chart is incorrect please let us know by replying within this thread/topic. ;-)

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Rio Grand Prix (Gavea) 1934 – 1937 In the 1930's the Grande Prêmio da Cidade de Rio de Janeiro were held on the infamous 11.16km long Gavea track known locally as Trampolin do Diablo ("The devil's spring board"). This course followed the coast on the edge of a cliff and returned to Gavea up in the mountains where it featured a series of hairpins in hazardous terrain... a wonderful historic course! And the vehicles that raced there ranged from lowly Ford V8's to Alfa's, Ferrari's, Bugatti's and yes - even an Autounion! Click on the attached .pdf below to review this article - it features interesting facts with numerous pictures about an obscure Grand Prix course and the pilots and their cars that navigated it... Enjoy! :yahoo:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Warm up for Ringwood A couple of clips to get one in the mood for the upcoming Ringwood. French G.P. 1965 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2XUs9_Uds4 1965 Nurburgring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8NoFM-xuKI 1967 German Grand Prix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRaAMzqYxpE Enjoy  

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Draft Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v4.0 – May, 2018 Gentlemen, I've prepared and attached an update in draft format of the current Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines (v3.0) that addresses the following: Eliminates the confusing reference to 15" wheels and sets all of the basic wheel sizes in metric (millimeters); Offers a basis from which to calculate wheel diameter and width to avoid confusion and make compliance intuitive; These updates to wheel dimensions are not substantive - they do not change anything - but clarify the rules as they were; In hot rods wheel size is no longer restricted to 14mm wheels - hot rod wheels may be smaller in diameter since this does not offer any performance advantage; In hot rods the previously mandatory SC0120 DArt tire is now no longer mandatory but still highly recommended; In sportscars since we have the relatively new SP+ subclass the 'target' motor reference allowing any motor to be used especially for heavier models is no longer necessary and so the SP class is once again restricted to only 'Slow' motors listed in G7. All models using any other motor will be classed as SP+; The draft version reflects all of these changes. For convenience I've marked all of the changes as follows: deletions are crossed out; and additions are in red. Please feel free to print/review your own copy (attached below) and comment by replying to this thread or in person at our next scratch32 event. You must be logged in to review the attached draft and comment below.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Essential Tire Adhesive This new Gorilla Clear adhesive is what we've been waiting for to glue our urethane tires! With no expansion, no mess, and no tan ooze this is the perfect tire adhesive. Reasonably priced and available at most big box retailers this should be an easy addition/replacement to everyone's toolbox. Please note that the manufacturer suggests you keep this product IN LIGHT to prevent yellowing over time. If you use it as much as I plan to do then it won't have time to yellow but nevertheless that is the manufacturer's suggestion. I've used Gorilla Clear on many sets of tires and find that it is much easier to use than the original formula but it does need longer to cure - I would wait at least overnight (or in a perfect world) 24 hours. As they would tell Mikey - 'try it - you'll like it'.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • R32 VIII – Molto Veloce – April 14, 2018 R32 VIII Molto VeLoce - April 14, 2018 Final Results [foogallery id="6465"] Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #23 - ArT - 76 Laps (7.671 ext.); #45 - ArT - 74 (6.785); #76 - JiM - 74 (11.098); #2 - DwM - 71 (10.327); #48 - MiA - 71 (14.768); #2 - JiM - 68 (15.473); #35 - DwM - 68 (18.300); #18 - MiA - 60 (12.165). LMP/GT (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #12 - ArT - 85 Laps (9.821 ext.); #8 - DwM - 82 (22.694); #009 - MiA - 78 (13.510); #17 - JiM - 75 (14.421). Group 5 (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #30 - ArT - 86 Laps (14.071 ext.); #77 - JiM - 78 (14.128); #23 - DwM - 78 (17.949); #79 - MiA - 72 (9.642). CANAM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #65 - ArT - 84 Laps (6.297 ext.); #2 - DwM - 80 (11.337); #27 - ArT - 80 (11.898); #12 - DwM - 78 (8.610); #52 - JiM - 77 (9.740); #72 - JiM - 76 (11.001); #2 - MiA - 74 (15.524); #16 - MiA - 72 (6.571).

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking.   Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E   Thanks to Art for his great photos!    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      JoeJoe

    • SlotTrak 13.03 – Free As many of you know, slottrak became freeware last fall. For those of you with a purchased version updated to 12.50 there is no substantive change apart from the software now being free. For that reason I don't see any need to update your track software to this newest version unless you are having hardware compatibility issues.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: SlotTrak Timing Software

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Model Building Software & Electronics For creating model buildings out of paper - yes - their software can size anything you create using their templates and textures in 1:32 - there is a cost but it could be well worth it since so little is available in our scale. They also sell an affordable LED lighting system for just about everything on your layout, including buildings, signals, campfires, welding, etc. and also with optional sound for police cars, fire-engines, first responders, etc. Postage is reasonable or free for orders over $55.00(U.S.)... https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Scenerize It

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Classic Era Challenge II (1966 – 1971) – March 24, 2018 @ MVL After some time away from the Molto VeLoce Circuit located in Oakville ON Scratch32 and R32 will be returning to this prestigious exotic car location and their 4 lane custom routed slot car track by DArt. The first event tentatively scheduled for MVL will be the second round of the ‘R32 Classic Era Challenge’ on Saturday March 24, 2018 at 11am. [This was originally scheduled for March 17 but scheduling issues required a change to March 24.] Orange dot tires are mandatory – and the rules remain as before: 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked orange dot Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Our assigned racing number list so far: [table id=6 /] Everyone who wishes to participate on Saturday March 24, 2018 must log in and register below regardless of whether or not they already have their assigned racing numbers (limit of 3). Those that do not have a scratch32 account or need to acquire their orange dot tires and/or racing numbers must contact me as soon as possible by email at: [email protected] [seatt-form event_id=15]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 22
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 VI – The Ring – March 7, 2018 R32 VI March 7, 2018 - The Ring Final Results [foogallery id="5976"] Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #98 - ArT – 75 Laps (8.498 ext.); #33 – JmO – 74 (12.746); #48 – MiA – 74 (12.961). Formula 1 (Stock) F1S (180 sec. x 3 x 1 =9 min.) [Off =-1 Lap]: #9 – ArT – 81 Laps (12.094 ext.); #22 – JmO – 80 (9.955); #7 – ArT – 79 (4.065); #7 – MiA – 76 (12.435); #22 – MiA – 76 (13.394); #70 – JmO – 73 (8.679). LeMans P/GT (LMP/GT) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #12 – ArT – 88 Laps (13.058 ext.); #5 – MiA – 83 (8.515); #1 – MiA – 79 (14.491); #2 – JmO – 78 (11.482); #062 – ArT – 78 (30.000); #2 – JmO – 75 (6.418). CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #19 – ArT – 90 Laps (7.998 ext.); #30 – JmO – 86 (8.765); #7 – ArT – 84 (13.563); #99 – JmO – 78 (10.012); #65 – MiA – 77 (10.647); #16 - MiA – 76 (7.118).

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 2
    • 2
    • 1 month ago

      MiAMiA

    • Porsche 356 SL It is a resin body and not a very good one (you get what you pay for).  Spend almost a year trying to fix it up and still it is marginal.  Decided to paint it up and decal anyway.  It looks big but is under scale on length and height.  Width is about 9-10 mm over scale. Porsche 356 SL – 1953 – 1488cc.  1953 Carrera PanAmericana S1.6 class.  Car #199.  Did not finish, over time limit.  Driver - Joaquin Castillo de la Fuente.  #356__2-054 Still working on the picture  :wacko:

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 3
    • 6 years ago

      DBDB

    • Tamiya Modeling Wax I've just started using this product from Tamiya and it really does bring out the lustre of your paint. It comes with its own 'cloth' applicator and is very easy to apply. No white haze after applying but make sure to remove any excess and simply buff to a brilliant shine with a tiny piece of cotton T-shirt scrap - just remember to be careful picking up your model since it will be slick - and no finger prints either! I haven't used this yet over unprotected decals so I'm not sure if it will attack them - best to do a test piece first. Retailing for around $12-$15 per bottle/kit at almost any hobby shop (that carries Tamiya products) a tiny drop goes a long way so price shouldn't really be a worry.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Ferrari 612 CANAM Ferrari 612 CANAM A few shots of the first completed DArt Ferrari 612 CANAM model. This model uses only the stock parts included with the DArt body kit - mirror, rollbar, driver's head and inkjet decals. Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer was used over Tamiya Fine Primer. The paint was polished but there is no clear coat on this one. Wax was the preferred final finish. The shell is mounted to the chassis using two centrally located posts, one immediately behind the front axle, the other infront of the motor. DArt urethane washers placed between the posts and the chassis dampen movement of the shell. The chassis was one of my first scratch built sidewinder configurations. This is a simple chassis - nothing fancy - but it is perfectly balanced. As you can see it is not polished or clear coated and so shows its age (although well I think). The centre brass section was added when the chassis was tuned for racing. If memory serves well the motor is a Fox 10 soldered directly to the chassis with 11 x 36T Slot.It pinion and spur gear. Aftermarket hard drill blank axles through brass tube at the front and oilite bushings at the rear attach BWA 15" .380 sized alloy wheels with DArt small inserts (included with the kit) and DArt urethane tires (SI0201) front and back. A vintage nylon guide was chosen for this project. This chassis/shell combination proves that you need not do anything fancy to make a rocket. The front wheels could yet be converted to independent spinners to further enhance cornering speeds - but why bother when it is at the sharp end already? Setting sail to another country hopefully this model will offer as much enjoyment for its new host/collector as it did for me. :cry:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 4
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 4
    • 14
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Classic Era Challenge I (1966-1971) – February 2, 2018 @ The Ring It doesn't get any simpler than this for those of you who just want to go fast with any ready to run NSR, Slot.It or other manufacturer's model or build your own to race - any motor, any chassis, any configuration and hardly any rules - a mandatory marked tire will keep it fair but the rest is up to each of you. Want to race your NSR out of the box just with tires? Go for it. Want to tune the crap out of your NSR? Go for it. Want to build your own torsion or rattle pan chassis? Go for it. Want to race your hand wound motor? Go for it. Don't want to read too many rules? Great! Can't read? Don't worry... Like to argue over rules? Too bad - nothing to argue about here... Almost anything goes. Simple Rules & Guidelines Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. NEW Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. More Information, including a list of reserved (or available) race numbers, will be found below. Right now, all numbers, including three digit numbers, are available. Looking forward hopefully this can become a series hosted at other tracks too, perhaps on a monthly basis. For now we will start next Friday here at The Ring... :good: Please spread this link around to everyone who you believe may wish to participate regardless of with whom or where they raced in the past or present. Everyone is welcome.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 22
    • 1 month ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • '55 Daihatsu This was my door prize at the December IROC meet.  Decided to put it together over the holidays. I added Slotter wheels on the rear, gearing and a motor with the intention of having it run.  But alas was stumped by the guide flag issue.  So having it as a static model for the time being.  Added a wood bed using popsicle sticks and a couple of coats of Citadel ‘Nuln Oil’ Shade.

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 9
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • R32 V – Spa-Lyons – January 3, 2018 – Ringing in the New Year at Spa! After a long hiatus, 5 fickle fingers of fate returned to Spa on January 3rd 2018. Pedigrees and pedicures were de rigueur, as they should be at a Spa session. Alas, the Greektown customs agents delayed the arrival of 1 intrepid racer, suspected of travelling with a formerly suspect controller. Nastycab rumbl'd 'N'rubbed the 1st clash of the evening, and the good ol' boys had a Hee Haw of a time. Now to them thar pictures      

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: R32

    • 3
    • 8
    • 1 month ago

      MiAMiA

    • Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 9
    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • Your Guide and Tongue – Limiting Over-Rotation Fabricating the tongue that will hold your guide of choice should follow several basic principles, one of which is that travel or rotation should be limited either by the just the shape of the leading edges of your tongue or by adding stops. If you allow excessive rotation then you risk allowing your model to rotate well beyond the useful range of performance and either wedging it at a 90 degree angle which becomes a hazard to others or worse yet allowing it to travel in the reverse direction. Be sure to limit the rotation of your guide to just 45 degrees each way by shaping your tongue into a triangle or soldering stops in place depending on the style of guide. If your car is sliding more than 25 degrees from the direction of travel then it is already out of control and if it rotates well beyond that then a properly set up guide stop will at least force the guide (and your model) out of the slot, removing power and allowing it to slide to the gutter and usually out of harms way. In a recent race one car which allowed the guide to over rotate by at least 180 degrees repeatedly wedged itself sideways, blocking the track and creating a hazard for others at numerous locations around the track. Limiting the rotation of your guide will not only increase the life of your model but also the lives of the models of those who race with you.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

    • 3
    • 9
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Cobra vs. Ferrari A BBC documentary with some some good historical footage of the era. A good way to spend the last few hours of your year. Happy New Year all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vojnf8shDHY&feature=youtu.be

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 1
    • 6 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v3.0 – December 2017 Make sure to review the latest version of the Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines updated for 2018. In a nutshell the update includes: a restriction to FF050 'slow' (or low power) motors in the 1.5L class; and the creation of an SP+ class under sportscars which allows any motor - vintage/new, custom/stock, unaltered/altered. The SP and SP+ classes will both race in future International Meisterschaft events but will be scored separately as either SP or SP+. The restriction to FF050 'slow' motors is logical to maintain the status quo in our 1.5L class. The addition of the SP+ sportscar class was motivated in part: due to some clearly wanting to stretch the boundaries of the 'target' 'slow' (or low power) motor in SP; to accommodate vintage motors of varying capability; and to encourage innovation in chassis construction. The SP+ and SP classes will race together and because we limit racers to 6 and give pilots an opportunity to race two entries it is hoped that those building SP+ models will race models in both classes. Those with only SP models (or those not interested in racing SP+ models) continue to be encouraged to race multiple SP models... :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 2
    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the  IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width.  The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred.  Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire  and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height.   As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year.  :yahoo: Dave  

      Started by: DBDB in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 4
    • 6 years ago

      DBDB

    • Filler – Caution Using Plastic Cement & Styrene Mixture… Hi Art: I just want to give you a cautionary note related to the Plastic cement & Styrene mixture for use as a filler... I had been told that the expert modellers use it as a filler in place of putty. I had collected rotary cutter shavings from the last time I was cutting a curve in a thick sheet of polystyrene. I left them to dissolve in a well capped Tamiya paint bottle, half-filled with Testors plastic cement, and added small cut-off pieces from time to time. The mixture eventually became well dissolved into a consistent paste. This is the first chance I have had to make use of the mix, to fill in the mounting-pin holes at the side of the Tamtech body. They are countersunk funnel shaped holes of 4 mm surface diameter and extending beyond the body inside surface. So they took a larger volume of the mix. I left the body overnight and found that only the surface of the fill was cured. I could press into it and make indentations. It became a bit harder after a couple more days. When I finally sanded it down, the centers of the fill was still pliable. The final stages of working it showed that the putty had in fact, not bonded to the plastic surface of the body and I was able to pop it out of the hole. I now realize that I should have tried an application of the straight liquid cement over the surface before applying the filler mix. Also, if you are making use of this type of mixture, it may be best to apply it in thinner layers. Alternatively, you may want to test some additives. The formulation of the plastic cement is thrown out of balance with the addition of the styrene, so adding a bit of curing agent may help. However, we wouldn't want a mix that is too thin to shape. Adding a bit of Acetone may be worth testing. Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide is the hardener/curing component for most epoxies and is also involved in the plastic cement, as acetates of that compound, so it may be worth trying. So I think the technique needs a bit more testing. I've tried a few tests myself, but I don't have enough volume of the mix to test different additives. I've been preparing the body for painting and for cutting out the light lenses. It has a great number of mould seam lines, so a lot of sanding. That exposed more of the small imperfections in the surfaces. I thought I had caught everything then I found a seam across the whole width, under the front edge of the rear wing; it became very visible under oblique lighting. It was tricky smoothing it out under the wing, especially with the intake screen right at the edge. I have the body all sanded now, so I can try re-filling those mounting holes, then cut out the seven lens sections. Sorry if this is more detail than you need Art!  I didn't want to leave you without complete info, and thought you may need the background if you try out the technique some time. Thanks Art; good luck with the work. Hope to see you soon. Austin.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

    • 2
    • 3
    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • R32 IV – The Ring – December 6, 2017 R32 IV December 6, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="5093"] FINAL RESULTS Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #45 - ArT – 78 Laps (10.836 ext.); #23 – ArT – 78 (11.225); #6 – JoB – 76 (9.502); #6 – FCe – 75 (6.955); #35 – DwM – 75 (8.508); #48 – MiA – 75 (16.166); #2 – JoB – 75 (17.200); #76 – FCe – 72 (6.182); #33 - JmO – 72 (10.680); #77 – JmO – 71 (13.480); #2 – DwM – DNF. Group C/IMSA (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #14 – JoB – 88 Laps (8.330 ext.); #14 – DwM – 87 (2.472); #8 – ArT – 87 (11.725); #17 – MiA – 84 (15.394); #16 – FCe – 81 (15.471); #45 – JmO – 79 (14.799). LeMans P/GT (LMP/GT) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #25 – ArT – 92 Laps (11.680 ext.); #34 – JoB – 91 (10.688); #8 – DwM – 90 (8.999); #2 – MiA – 82 (2.847); #? - JmO – 79 (8.689). CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #65 – ArT – 90 Laps (10.036 ext.); #2 – DwM – 89 (14.796); #30 – JmO – 87 (8.064); #48 – JoB – 87 (9.775)*; #2 - MiA – 83 (8.763). *Consolation for JoB in the final heat of the evening was that his Slot.It McLaren #48 did set a new fastest lap for the green lane under the R32 CAN AM class - 5.703...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 2
    • 2
    • 1 month ago

      MiAMiA

    • 60-70s Sponsors and Signage Hi lads, if you're interested, I have a file(too large to upload here) that contains many 'signs' and or logo's you could use to decorate your track, or convert to decals for cars. Let me know and I can e-mail to you. Simply click/grab the image, and you can resize.   :good:

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Decals

    • 2
    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • MotorSport Podcast series Really great series of podcasts with many historic figures from F1 and other series Alastair Caldwell McLaren Team manager podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsbXE2Owaps Many others Frank Dernie ex Williams engineer is another great one. Enjoy!    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1962 BRM P578 'Stackpipe' A wonderful article on the 1962 BRM P578 Stackpipe (attached below). "The best compromise seemed to match the pipe lengths, which meant pointing them skywards, and adding megaphone ends to assist extraction. Thus the slinky 578 gained its famous stackpipes: its most famous feature is a drag-making lash-up."

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Just for fun So, just for fun, what is this type of construction called? Who developed it? Who used it? Bonus marks for major benefits and major drawbacks. More bonus marks for how some of these drawbacks were mitigated to some extent. And a guess at which car is in the photo above.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

    • 3
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    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Interesting VW and site Greetings, stumbled upon this site whilst looking for information on the resin body/kit I picked up at thee SLotcar show, a 'Daimler 250' (thanks for ID'ing MiA!) the wee beast had a V8 Hemi!...ANyway, look at this VW, don't believe I've ever seen 1, and what a beaut. You could make it yours too...$$$ Lots of other 1:1 Candy. :good:   https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-puma-gt-1600/    

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
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    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • R32 III – The Ring – November 1, 2017 R32 III November 1, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="4646"] Final Results NASCAR (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #54 - ArT – 78 Laps (13.159 ext.); #12 – DwM – 78 (19.117); #11 – ArT – 77 (15.896); #24 – DwM – 73 (12.822); #17 – JmO – 73 (16.429); #48 – JmO – 71 (11.190); # 5 – MiA – 71 (18.750); #88 – MiA – 70 (12.030). Modern F1 (F1S) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #9 – ArT – 85 Laps (11.010 ext.); #7 – ArT – 85 (12.909); #1 – DwM – 81 (14.233); #3 – DwM – 80 (5.568); #22 – JmO – 80 (13.805); #7 – MiA – 77 (11.099); #22 – MiA – 75 (8.667); #10 – JmO – 65 (13.241). 3.0L LeMans (3LM) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #3 – ArT – 89 Laps (3.630 ext.); #7 – DwM – 86 (13.556); #8 – MiA – 81 (10.645); #10 – JmO – 78 (9.056). Group 5 (G5) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #30 – ArT – 90 Laps (5.211 ext.); #23 – DwM – 87 (3.768); #51 – MiA – 81 (11.766); #62 – JmO – 74 (3.149).

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 2
    • 1
    • 1 month ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • 2017 International Race of Champions – The Ring – December 20, 2017 2017 IROC  Qualifying: Everyone chose to qualify on the middle lane. ArT; BiG; DwM; JMs; MiA; DaB; JmO. Race Results: 1st Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) JMs – 81 Laps; ArT – 80; BiG – 80; DwM – 79; JmO – 78; MiA – 76; DaB – 75. 2nd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 162; BiG - 162; JMs - 160; DwM - 158; JmO - 156; MiA – 153; DaB - 148. 3rd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 244; BiG - 243; JMs - 240; DwM - 238; JmO – 234; MiA – 230; DaB - 224. 4th Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 326; BiG - 324; JMs - 321; DwM – 318; JmO – 312; MiA – 307; DaB - 300. ADJUSTED FINAL RESULTS (180 sec. x 3 x 4 = 36 min.) [crash = -1 lap] ArT – 325 Laps [-1 lap]; BiG – 324;* JMs – 320 [-1 lap]; DwM – 317 [-1 lap]; JmO – 312;** MiA – 304 [-3 laps]; DaB – 293 [-6 laps]. * Fewest Crashes ** Second Fewest Crashes Christmas came early for everyone this night. Prizes were awarded as follows: BiG chose this DArt body kit: But then opted to trade in the Ferrari 312P body kit for the mystery prize hanging from the Christmas tree elsewhere: It was a lovely Fly Juncadella Chevron B21! Well done BiG! Our next place finisher JMs chose this DArt body kit: Next, DwM made his selection: Followed by JmO: Up next MiA chose his wrapped door prize - he unwrapped a Lindberg model kit and five BWMS050 motors: DaB unwrapped the second door prize: Time for the two most prestigious awards on the night - most flawless on the evening. BiG and JmO both collected top honours with no offs each - tie going to the higher finisher meant Bill chose his second DArt body kit and received an 'unobtainium' Vanski unrated motor:  JmO picked his second DArt body kit and received his unrated Vanski motor: Excellent racing by all! This will close out the Scratch32/R32 fall racing season. Our next scratch32 event will be the Targa III here at the Ring while the next R32 race will at the lovely Spa-Lyons - both in early January! Info on both is right on our website! A wonderful end to 2017... Merry Christmas to everyone and please have a very Happy New Year! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 27
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Porsche 356 Super – 1952 La Carrera Panamericana #10 1952 Carrera Panamericana - ‘S’ class - #10 Porsche 356 Super (von Berckheim/Linge/von Hohenlohe) – DNF accident 3rd leg I forgot about this Carrera Panamericana project which I started last spring. I’ll list the parts and products used which together with a few pictures should at the least supplement my own memory down the road if anything worked particularly well (or not). In each project I try to incorporate lessons learned from my prior mistakes and from the tips of others – but old habits are hard to break. Nevertheless here is what I used and how it went together for better or worse. It was important to me to that this model had an appropriate stance and was not ‘slammed’. As always I sorted my wheels and tires before starting the chassis. Once I knew the overall diameter of the front and back wheels/tires I set up my jig to shoot for a chassis clearance of approximately 3mm which in most cases will allow for a slightly higher body position and therefore in my opinion a more suitable stance and overall look. The body was a Ninco classic Porsche 356 with the plate light, tail pipe openings, tear drop tail lamps as well as front turn signal provisions filled in using Tamiya white putty. Everything was primed and painted with Tamiya rattlers – white primer and two coats of Racing White. It isn’t clear to me from the black and white photos what the exact colour was so I did not sweat it and chose one which looked nice. The decals were all created using whatever images I could find and modify from the internet using Microsoft Photodraw and Word then custom printed using my inkjet printer and given two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (Gloss) to seal them. No clear coat was applied to this body since the paint itself already had a nice gloss finish. On closer inspection some of the areas that I filled with Tamiya putty are still distinguishable but I decided not to spend any more time on the body. The chromed pieces (ie. mirror, wipers, handles, headlamp bezels, etc.) were all stripped and repainted using Krylon Chrome then dipped in Pledge acrylic floor polish (with a drop of windex added) to seal each piece. Although sealing the chrome dulled it somewhat I opted to seal it for better protection from handling, especially the door handles and rocker trim. The headlamps were dipped in Pledge acrylic before mounting and front and rear signal/tail lights together with reflectors were positioned and fixed in place using Gorilla Glue clear epoxy – as were all of the accent pieces. The interior was the very slightly modified Ninco classic Porsche 356 interior but I used a different pilot and upgraded the steering wheel. The interior was painted but remained black with red accents/stripes on the seats and together with the single piece glass secured in place using Gorilla clear epoxy. The completed body and interior weighs in at 24.7 grams which includes a pair of brass body post inserts for 440 screws. I kept things simple and just sleeved the existing body posts using #227 Evergreen styrene tubing although I did add some bracing to the front post. For the chassis I pulled four BW15-200 series wheels which were painted at the same time as the body and mounted DArt SC0118 tires front and back (I used the slightly smaller SC0118F on the front). I opted for a sidewinder setup and decided to go old school and just use brass tubing to hold the front and rear axles. To keep things even simpler I made the Ninco NC1 motor can a part of the chassis and soldered both the front half of the chassis and the rear axle tubing directly to the can. For those concerned about the effect of heat on the motor magnets and plastic endbell it would be possible given how this chassis was constructed to remove the endbell along with the motor guts and solder only the can in place then reinsert everything but since the target motor for this class is a ‘slow’ motor which is not to be opened I left it as is. A plastic repop of the classic Ninco guide was secured using 4mm brass tube soldered to a custom made brass front plate. At the back an additional ‘U’ shaped piece of piano wire would hold both the sliding (front to back) rear body post plate which I made plus the aluminium exhaust pipes. Since this model will need some added weight in the front I fashioned three brass plates plus a couple of .032 wires and soldered them all together to create a rattle pan which can be easily installed (or removed and further tweaked for tuning) to the chassis and which is secured in place by the front body post/screw. After carefully scrubbing the steel wire and the motor with a water and Ajax mix and then sanding/polishing everything I applied/rubbed a little Brasso metal polish to everything. For improved cornering a Dubro #2 steel washer was soldered to the solid front axle thereby allowing one wheel to spin free. As for gearing a test fitting would prove that a Slot.It 6.5mm pinion would mesh adequately with an 18mm Slot.It spur gear. Although the range for this gear set yields potential ratios that are much lower than optimal that is still fine with me. Given the construction of this chassis I can use my pinion puller and press to replace the pinion without unsoldering anything. After some initial track break-in and testing I opted to drill out approximately 2g of material from the rattle pan. Overall weight of this model is now 81.3 grams. I also changed the pinion to a 13 tooth. After placing the rattle pan into the chassis I mounted the body. Before securing the body to the chassis with a pair of 440 brass screws I added a little white glue to the insert threads to help prevent the screws from backing out during a race. I also used DArt number 2 urethane washers to space the body from the chassis. Gluing them in place will save some time down the road too. [If you have sufficient clearance you can also add a urethane spacer under each screw head which will also prevent the screws from backing out.] If your body rolls too much you might need to either remove one or both of the urethane spacers or insert a stop bar. In this case there was no issue with excessive roll. Now this model is ready! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • R32 II – The Ring – October 4, 2017 R32 II October 4, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="4265"] Results Group C/IMSA (GCI) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #7 - ArT – 86 Laps (10.816 ext.); #62 – ArT – 85 (11.314); #61 – FCe – 81 (5.536); #45 – MiA – 80 (15.934); #16 – FCe – 78 (7.348); #17 – MiA – 76 (7.478). Modern F1 (F1S) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]:  #7 – ArT – 82 Laps (7.818 ext.); #9 – ArT – 81 (10.571); #7 – FCe – 77 (7.940); #22 – MiA – 77 (9.335); #7 – MiA – 76 (16.415); #2 – FCe – 75 (8.326). 3.0L LeMans (3LM) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #8 – ArT – 88 Laps (7.454 ext.); #3 – ArT – 88 (11.044); #8 – FCe – 83 (10.218); #8 – MiA – 83 (13.014); #1 – FCe – 82 (11.318); #4 – MiA – 77 (12.267). CANAM (CA) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #16 – ArT – 88 Laps (4.191 ext.); #66 – ArT – 86 (7.280); #65 – FCe – 82 (9.073); #2 – MiA – 82 (9.970); #2 – MiA – 80 (5.150); #12 – FCe – 78 (10.776).

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 3
    • 2
    • 1 month ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Liquid Chrome by Molotow Anyone who has tried to replicate a chrome finish knows that this can be a challenge. As noted elsewhere I've had good luck with Krylon's Premium Chrome rattle cans - but thanks to a tip from F1Nutz I now have another great product in my paint shop that is even easier to use - a 4mm Liquid Chrome Pump Marker by Molotow. They have a complete line which includes a refill too... Available from Amazon or at the Group 25 model car show (by Sunward Hobbies). I tested the marker on some knock offs and headers/tail pipes and wow does it leave a nice finish! Impressive! And so easy to use too! This product gets 5 out of 5 thumbs up! :good:  :good:  :good:  :good:  :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

    • 3
    • 3
    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • David Piper Sandeman & Castrol GTX Just some of the images I used to make up my Sandeman decals along with some Castrol GTX stripes and logo... attached below in an MSWord file so you can manipulate and change numbers, names, etc. - hopefully you have the same fonts installed... if not I can upload a .pdf file too...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Decals

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1969 CANAM Piper Ferrari 612 (No. 43) This period fantasy livery uses a DArt body kit and will have a scratch built chassis underneath mounted using one screw/body post behind the front axle and two clips for wire uprights just behind the molded tailpipe shell detail. Who better a pilot to place in this unreliable rocket than the other Polish Prince (not Marek) - Tony Adamowicz! After applying a dark green base coat and fixing the mounting post/clips we were ready for the next step - decals. 29 of the 34 decals used were printed using my standard inkjet printer and coated with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (as I do with all of the decals I make). Regarding the five store bought decals used – three were rectangular Monogram white blank number plates with a black pinstripe border and two were Pattos Ferrari badge decals – in hindsight I was disappointed with both the opacity and misaligned pin stripe on the white blank Monogram number plates (but it gives the model character) and should have just printed my own along with the Pattos Ferrari badges since I am really not a fan of their low resolution. Nevertheless the project turned out just fine. The decals will be left to dry for a few days and after some cleaning up the body will be ready for two clear coats (yet to be determined), then some detail painting and a dark wash. I haven’t decided if I want to paint or decal the spoiler orange yet… no rush… ...stay tuned!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 5
    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • R32 I – The Ring – September 6, 2017 R32 I September 6, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="3834"] Results NASCAR (NC) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #48 - DwM – 81 Laps; #3 – KKr – 80; #17 – KKr – 79; #11 – ArT – 78; #7 – ArT – 78; #24 – DwM – 77. TRANS AM (TA) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 80 Laps (9.741 ext.); #1B – KKr – 80 (12.070); #1R – KKr – 79 (10.919); #98 – ArT – 76 (12.673); #35 – DwM – 73 (10.098); #2 – DwM – 72 (12.425). GROUP 5 (G5) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 123 Laps (12.222 ext.); #598 – KKr – 117 (8.183); #23 – DwM – 110 (10.801); #51 – MiA – 110 (11.594); LMP/GT (LMP) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #12 – ArT – 124 Laps (12.227 ext.); #009 – KKr – 119 (5.168); #8 – DwM – 117 (9.980); #1 – MiA – 114 (11.512); Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Ferrari 121LM Scaglietti Spyder Ferrari 121 LM Scaglietti Spyder Gallery: [foogallery id="3612"]Completed in early 1955, chassis 0546LM was originally conceived as a 118 LM. In this guise, it was raced as a works entry at the 1955 Mille Miglia by Paolo Marzotto. Unfortunately, a blown tyre ended the charge early. The car was returned to the factory where it was upgraded to full 121 LM specifications ahead of the entry in the 24 Hours of Le Mans. Finished in French racing colours, it was raced by Maurice Trintignant and Harry Schell. Among the fastest cars in the entry, the big six-cylinder engined Ferrari also proved fragile and 0546LM was forced to retire from the race after ten hours with a blown engine.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 1
    • 6 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • 2.4h Group C Endurance Race In keeping with both past tradition and our scratch building focus this fall we will incorporate another full day event for a 2.4h Group C 'enduro'. Obviously this will involve either a scratch built chassis OR body (or both) and is not limited to stock components (any components may be used). A marked hand out tire will be provided to those that pre-register before the deadline. Multiple entries will also be encouraged. Stay tuned for more details. Thoughts, comments and suggestions are encouraged at this early stage.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Gallery Feature Added We've added a new gallery feature. Go to the gallery using the link in either the header or footer menus. The gallery will include pictures from every event to supplement the event reports, plus others. User/contributor galleries (also for original pictures authored by registered users/contributors) may be available soon. Cheers! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Harry O’Reilly Schell (1921-1960) A gentleman racer and very good friends with the Marquis de Portago (ring a bell?). See the attached article below but you must be logged in. In this famous picture he is slowing to receive a refreshment during practice prior to the Portuguese Grand Prix. Notice Jo Bonnier parked and looking on...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Drivers of the Past

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Monday, July 31, 2017 (4:30 – 6:30pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis 2 This is a continuation of our first session on completing a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for the Ferrari P4 body/class. We're using a Piranha motor with slot.it gearing, BWA wheels, DArt tires & inserts, and a Fly guide along with a modified Scaley body/interior. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We’ll have pizza and refreshments as usual followed by Ringwood XXI. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 31, 2017 – 4:30 - 6:30pm Where: The Ring [seatt-form event_id=3]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

    • 1
    • 0
    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

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