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    • Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • PGP Insert Detail x2 Those of you interested in the upcoming Coppa D'oro and more specifically our new pre-war class (PGP/PGP+) have already worked with the new DArt pre-war wheel/tire/insert package. This is the recommended package for the class which comes with a choice of three inserts. Another new option for you: Using the same wheel I've taken two of the 20 spoke inserts and sanded one (the white one in this example) down to a thickness of approx. 1mm and placed it behind an original sized insert (the grey one) to see how it looks. You be the judge. It took me approx. 5 minutes to do this using both a coarse grit sandpaper, finer sandpaper and a sharp exacto knife. For best results I would suggest that you spray both the spoked inserts with your choice of Tamiya TS (or airbrush acrylic) and the wheels. Adding a black or dark grey wash (or any contrasting colour) to the inside of the wheel will make the spoke detail pop. Since most of the kits come with centre nuts or knock offs use them to finish the centre... So this is a fourth insert alternative for those of you building models for the Coppa. I'll be using this technique for both the Alfa 8C and the Mercedes SSK wheels that I am preparing for myself. Those of you who might still need a wheel package let me know - I've got 4 or 5 sets completed - now I am working on white tires for early models...  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Race Transporter Reference Drawings I wasn't sure where to post this so please feel free to move this thread. I was recently pointed to a thread on Slotforum that contains scale plans by Mike Sells for many vintage race transporters. Anyone feeling ambitious and need a winter project? https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182130&hl=%2Btransporter+%2Bplan Cheers Bill  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings The key to keeping axles true to each other is in the set up. I measure and scribe everything before I start drilling. I always start with a pilot drill. It can be used to lightly poke an accurate spot indicating if you're on target. Drills are too long and flexible to check for accuracy that way. I don't need a digital readout this way and use an inexpensive $75 drill press. 

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.

      Started by: KenKen in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • An ALLARD – KURTIS SPECIAL? PANAMERICANA ? An ALLARD - KURTIS SPECIAL - PANAMERICANA ?   Fantasy . Hi guy's, I'm well new here and came across some nice coloured photo's of A K Miller's "Iron Horse" and also noticed in my book, that Tony Bettenhausen had run a Kurtis - Chrysler in the 1953 La Carrera. Now I don't know of any 1/32 kit's for the above BUT I do know George Turner Model's produces a very nice Allard J 2, that I fancy getting. (Big smile). So a few pic's off Google and maybe an up-date of a build in 12 month's time. The GTM in it's wooden 'buck' format. The Resin model, with co-driver. The Inspiration. A Kurtis - Lincoln 1954   Although there are quite a few photo's of Tony Bettenhausen's Kurtis - Chrysler # 21 on Google, I was unable to 'lift' any.  

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking.   Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E   Thanks to Art for his great photos!    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      JoeJoe

    • Model Building Software & Electronics For creating model buildings out of paper - yes - their software can size anything you create using their templates and textures in 1:32 - there is a cost but it could be well worth it since so little is available in our scale. They also sell an affordable LED lighting system for just about everything on your layout, including buildings, signals, campfires, welding, etc. and also with optional sound for police cars, fire-engines, first responders, etc. Postage is reasonable or free for orders over $55.00(U.S.)... https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Scenerize It

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • '55 Daihatsu This was my door prize at the December IROC meet.  Decided to put it together over the holidays. I added Slotter wheels on the rear, gearing and a motor with the intention of having it run.  But alas was stumped by the guide flag issue.  So having it as a static model for the time being.  Added a wood bed using popsicle sticks and a couple of coats of Citadel ‘Nuln Oil’ Shade.

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the  IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width.  The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred.  Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire  and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height.   As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year.  :yahoo: Dave  

      Started by: DBDB in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      DBDB

    • Filler – Caution Using Plastic Cement & Styrene Mixture… Hi Art: I just want to give you a cautionary note related to the Plastic cement & Styrene mixture for use as a filler... I had been told that the expert modellers use it as a filler in place of putty. I had collected rotary cutter shavings from the last time I was cutting a curve in a thick sheet of polystyrene. I left them to dissolve in a well capped Tamiya paint bottle, half-filled with Testors plastic cement, and added small cut-off pieces from time to time. The mixture eventually became well dissolved into a consistent paste. This is the first chance I have had to make use of the mix, to fill in the mounting-pin holes at the side of the Tamtech body. They are countersunk funnel shaped holes of 4 mm surface diameter and extending beyond the body inside surface. So they took a larger volume of the mix. I left the body overnight and found that only the surface of the fill was cured. I could press into it and make indentations. It became a bit harder after a couple more days. When I finally sanded it down, the centers of the fill was still pliable. The final stages of working it showed that the putty had in fact, not bonded to the plastic surface of the body and I was able to pop it out of the hole. I now realize that I should have tried an application of the straight liquid cement over the surface before applying the filler mix. Also, if you are making use of this type of mixture, it may be best to apply it in thinner layers. Alternatively, you may want to test some additives. The formulation of the plastic cement is thrown out of balance with the addition of the styrene, so adding a bit of curing agent may help. However, we wouldn't want a mix that is too thin to shape. Adding a bit of Acetone may be worth testing. Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide is the hardener/curing component for most epoxies and is also involved in the plastic cement, as acetates of that compound, so it may be worth trying. So I think the technique needs a bit more testing. I've tried a few tests myself, but I don't have enough volume of the mix to test different additives. I've been preparing the body for painting and for cutting out the light lenses. It has a great number of mould seam lines, so a lot of sanding. That exposed more of the small imperfections in the surfaces. I thought I had caught everything then I found a seam across the whole width, under the front edge of the rear wing; it became very visible under oblique lighting. It was tricky smoothing it out under the wing, especially with the intake screen right at the edge. I have the body all sanded now, so I can try re-filling those mounting holes, then cut out the seven lens sections. Sorry if this is more detail than you need Art!  I didn't want to leave you without complete info, and thought you may need the background if you try out the technique some time. Thanks Art; good luck with the work. Hope to see you soon. Austin.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Sebring 1957 Just to see how this works, so we may as well have the Wayback go way back. These images are from my dad's collection taken almost 60 years ago, so please keep them within the group. Due to the 100k suggested limit the images have become a bit grainy. Should anyone be interested contact me for larger file sizes. As time goes by I'll try to figure how to add a little info to each image.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Just for fun So, just for fun, what is this type of construction called? Who developed it? Who used it? Bonus marks for major benefits and major drawbacks. More bonus marks for how some of these drawbacks were mitigated to some extent. And a guess at which car is in the photo above.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • MotorSport Podcast series Really great series of podcasts with many historic figures from F1 and other series Alastair Caldwell McLaren Team manager podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsbXE2Owaps Many others Frank Dernie ex Williams engineer is another great one. Enjoy!    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 2017 Vintage GP at Mosport this weekend Anyone going to Mosport this weekend? If so the F1 Masters series will be there. Looks like about 15 vintage F1 cars from the entry list including Tyrells, Shadows, Lotii etc...don't miss the chance to do some close up research on these amazing cars from all over the world. https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.status/uidEvent/E332951C-A23B-9C37-6E286542DAB5A903#group1-642B4139-C8F7-353B-F108B5ABF23C4C69 Please note I checked the race schedule and the F1 Masters series are only running on Fri and Sat NOT Sunday. http://www.varac.ca/varac/documents/festival/2017/2017%20On%20Track%20Schedule.pdf Hope to see you there! I'll probably be camping between turn 3 and 4 if you want to stop by for a cold beverage. Look for a line of vintage street cars and I'll be near there...or wandering the paddock. Cheers Bill  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Other Local Events & Happenings

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 360 degree POV Camera vehicle A 360 degree camera mounted on a modified Range Rover at MiniGrid. Click on the screen and move your mouse around to change the camera angle! https://youtu.be/QreTCVWgSnY It was my pleasure to be able to drive this rig and I have to say the results are great. 360 a whole new way to think about camera's on slot cars, among other things. And the final version of the vehicle looks great too. Something right out of what a real Hollywood crane truck looks like! We did experiment with different speeds with the camera vehicle and found that running it at about 75% or so gave the best picture. Not too slow to put you to sleep, and not too fast to make you nauseous. Lap times were about equivalent to Cartrix cars with BWA motors.

      Started by: JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots in: Slot Related Curiosities, Oddities & One of a Kind

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    • 6 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Porsche 804 Grand Prix This is another class eligible (60GP) or VRAA body kit - a Porsche 804 that raced in 1962. In the usual silver livery it is a pleasant alternative to the green, red, blue and yellow entries in this class and a car that everyone should have in their 1960's Grand Prix stable. I've decided to make two versions, one using the existing original car/driver detail and another which will be modified to include enhanced details, including added cockpit/driver detail, wire roll bar & aluminium exhaust detail (mirrors, wire roll bar and exhaust pipes are included in the DArt kit). This version is utilizing the original details but for the added mirrors. This vintage representation of the 804 is quite nice despite the fact that the nose is more 'bulbous' (sp?) than the original to accommodate a guide/front axle... other slot car manufacturers have struggled with this problem too with various levels of success. As with any 1/32nd model made to perform on track compromise with the silhouette of a car is unavoidable. I chose to go with a livery of the #30 car (driven by Gurney) with the only victory for Porsche in the French GP. I exchanged the kit head (which is very nice and should be used for Bonnier (or others)) with the Gurney head from Scaley releases. The driver shoulder and arm detail along with the fan & transmission and exhaust details are not bad on the original model. Of course I am talking about the original Scaley release of this model from the 60's... The windscreen is nice too, although a touch large but for a model to be raced that is just fine... First I removed any flashing on the body and windscreen using a fine x-acto knife. The original finish of the body in this kit is good, not perfect, since the original model/material was quite rough in areas and required a tonne of work, but just a little more sanding of the kit body will remove any remaining blemishes (and should be done for any body you plan to paint). Regardless, the material is easily sanded. I also test fitted the windscreen to ensure a nice fit. I trimmed the body post and drilled a hole for the mounting screw I planned to use - I may sleeve this with a piece of styrene tubing down the road depending on the abuse this car will take. Although I would still use the original roll bar and exhaust detail that doesn't mean I can't improve it a little - so I drilled small holes into both exhaust pipes and drilled out the solid roll bar detail. I decided to leave the air intake covers alone and not hollow them out since that would take a lot of work and the probability of screwing that up was way too high. Instead I planned to cut out the 'openings' from a dark coloured tent repair nylon 'adhesive' and fix that sticker in place, as I've done on other projects. In the end the result will look just like a dark grill is covering each opening. Just be sure to cut the nylon patch adhesive using a very sharp blade (for longer narrow strips I use a box cutter blade and after positioning it flat along the edge to be cut just tap it with a hobby hammer to make a clean cut - don't waste your time cutting it by dragging your blade along a straight edge...) After washing the pieces to be painted and letting them dry I primed them all using rattle can Tamiya Fine White Primer. Then the whole body was painted with Tamiya TS-30 (Silver Leaf) and given two coats. At this point I decided to paint the nose of the windscreen silver to match the body so it was masked using Tamiya Masking Tape and sprayed as well. Standard Revell-Monogram black number decals were added using Micro Set/Sol. For the more detailed model I will airbrush the numbers instead... I finally painted a 'suggestion' of a Porsche logo on the nose... I then decided to try something different - an acrylic spray for the finish - I used a can of Krylon Crystal Clear (41303) and gave the body two heavy coats. I have to say I am very happy with the gloss/finish using this stuff since I didn't sand anything I sprayed. It did take a considerable amount of time to dry, not unlike Tamiya clear however. But patience is of course a virtue here. I hand painted the transmission & exhaust details, roll bar, driver's chest/arms/hands & steering wheel - didn't need primer - used Tamiya acrylics... some flat, some gloss depending on what I was painting. I also hand painted the driver's head and mirrors. I used Citadel Mithril Silver (it closely matches the Tamiya silver paint) on the whole mirror and a darker grey on the mirror lenses since I like the effect it creates. I dropped in some Future floor polish into each goggle lens and used a strip of a dark coloured nylon tent repair adhesive for a goggle strap. There was no need for seat belts so none were made from tent repair... After everything was finally cured I drilled two fine holes for each mirror and tested for fit. I glued the driver's head into place with Amazing GOOP (clear). I glued the windscreen into place using Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy. Rather than running a thin bead of epoxy along the bottom of the windscreen I simply applied the epoxy into each of the four mounting pin holes using a toothpick. This ensured a nice clean bond. As for the mirrors, since they were being mounted into the body and not the windscreen I opted to use a pin to apply a tiny amount of Gorilla Super Glue into each hole before pressing each mirror into place. I wasn't worried about fogging so Super Glue was fine to use... The front edge of the windscreen that was painted silver in my opinion needed something else to clean up the look where it touched the body (the unpainted sides gave a nice clean edge and didn't need anything else). Since this is something that is easy to botch up if you try painting directly, I opted to brush on the same silver paint I used on the mirrors onto a very thin strip of nylon tent repair adhesive. I trimmed to fit and then applied along the leading edge of the windscreen that was painted silver too. I was tempted to add more detail to this car but decided against doing so. In my opinion it looks fine as it is. The complete painted body as is weighs in at 11.2 grams. A fun project - time to get to work on the chassis now...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 7 years ago

      AvatarArthur

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