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    • Honda RA 271 I have always liked the Honda F1 cars and own the excellent DArt Honda RA 273.  I purchased a "Munter" John Warren Honda RA271 kit over a year ago. The inserts provided were too large to fit the RS Slot 15 x 7 wheels so DArt inserts were used instead along with DArt tires, mirrors, and the red Sun off a DArt decal sheet The resin exhausts looked too fragile so I bent some copper wire and reproduced the exhaust system. The driver figure has seat belts molded in however I believe they were not used in the real world of 1964.  Since I was not aiming for total accuracy, I decided to use it along with a car # that was not used during the season. So here it is.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • …and another thing… Since we were speaking about Sunbeams and Ken’s kit that he will hopefully mold yesterday I thought I’d post a pic of my 1/24 Sunbeam Tiger. It is complete with Maxwell Smart and shoe phone. Hands free devices weren’t required by law in the 60’s ;) The old Revell chassis under a model kit trick!  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • Very interesting site Came upon this while looking for information... Have only looked briefly but very cool! Amazing catalogue of manufacturers, history etc.   Check it out!! https://www.conceptcarz.com/view/make.aspx    

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Historical 1:1

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    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • Ferrari 246 SP Dino The sharknose Grand Prix car evolved in the early 60's at the same time as the sportscar. Racing in 1961 and 1962 the Ferrari 246 SP achieved some success. Here is Rodriquez in the Targa. I opted to fashion his french team mate. I started with the DArt body kit. I planned to mate this kit to an ASS (A Simple Sled) chassis. So far so good...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • 1963 Watson Special – Front Motor Indy Roadster Lots of discussion prior to the pandemic led to the beginning of an Indy Roadster class using a low power motor in an inline front motor configuration. In that spirit this is my build based on a 1:32 AMT kit for a 1963 Watson Special. This kit was the foundation for the DArt body kit which is what I am using for this build. The original kit and all of the parts, including decals: The DArt body kit which will be used: First things first - sorting out the wheels and tires. I opted to use RS Slot 15x7mm (14x7mm) insert wheels with DArt D7.5 tires mounted front and back. I trued down the fronts a little smaller. The rears were trued to a diameter of 25mm and the fronts to 23.3mm... I used the setup blocks as pictured when setting up my jig. Now time to start on the chassis using assorted piano wire and brass pieces...  This is my version of a two piece rotating torsion chassis. The motor is an extension of the rear end of the chassis even though it sits above the front section. A separate piece of piano wire wrapped around the guide tube will hold the two halves together after I solder the tips in place just ahead of the rear end. Now that the basic chassis is complete - you can see it has stubs for the front wheels - we can begin assembly, starting with the motor and driveshaft. Lots of trial fitting went into positioning the braces that will hold the motor shaft extension bushing. I only want to barely touch that bushing with my soldering iron to fix it in place after the motor is installed for the final time - then carefully clean away any acid flux and oil liberally. Time to trial fit the shell. I chose not to offset the body (or chassis) since we'll be running these on road courses. I'm happy with the overall stance of this chassis and body so time to trial fit the interior to provide clearance for the drive shaft/pinion. I hope to conceal the driveshaft under the pilot's left leg but I may need to improvise... we'll see... stay tuned!    

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • DArt McLaren M1B This M1B prototype got moved to the front of the build line. The plan is to standardize the M1B for DArt body/KRZ chassis quick-build kits in the near future. Chassis will be designed for slim-line motors to sit flat without the use of any spacers. A new paint-booth is under way. I decided to undo the mess I made in the basement kitchen before it became permanent. Anyone would have a hard time to figure out dozens of cars were painted there now. This prototype has CX0201 tires with 13x7 wheels on the front. The next prototype will have RM0201 tires with 13x5 wheels on the front.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • More Updates & Some Success! Over the past few weeks we've had some major updates to our website and, it appears, fingers crossed, that the issues we had previously of some accounts not being able to post automatically have been resolved. Nothing I've done recently in the settings solved this but an upgrade finally did. Yahoo!! Next up - to figure out why our website is so slow... but that is another chapter in this saga...  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • Quick Vic Sadly, Quick Vic passed away a few days ago. Excerpt below, followed by link to full article. Seeing the true extent of his skill, Porsche continued to award Elford bigger opportunities leading up to 1968—perhaps the height of his career. He famously won the Monte Carlo Rally and the 24 Hours of Daytona in the span of one week, going on to win the Targa Florio and the Nurburgring 1000 that spring. In July 1968 Elford drove an obsolete Cooper T86B to a fourth-place finish in his first F1 start on a wet Rouen-Les-Essarts circuit. He won his class twice at Le Mans, and was the first driver to lap the Circuit de la Sarthe at over 150mph (in a Porsche 917 longtail). Though he’s best known for his rally and endurance racing accomplishments behind the wheels of various Porsche racing cars, he also competed in Can-Am, Trans Am, NASCAR, British rallycross, and even the Paris-Dakar rally raid. Elford was awarded the French Order of Merit in 1972 after stopping mid-race to attend to the scene of Jo Bonnier’s fatal crash at Le Mans. Full article https://bringatrailer.com/2022/03/14/remembering-vic-elford-1935-2022/

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 2 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1963 Indy Roadster I found a few links that folks might find interesting when building the car. It is not a slot car build but won first place at the 2016 IPMS Nationals in SC. Parnelli Jones's 1963 Indy 500 Winning Watson Roadster - Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles - IPMS/USA Forums (ipmsusa3.org) The second link is of a Facebook page (embedded in first link), with step by step pictures with comments when you click on the picture. I guess you need to be on FB to see.  The interesting thing I liked is it helped locating where bits go plus it identified the paint colors to use for the Watson Livery. Don't know if it is helpful to anyone but I found it helped me. My model is coming along.  I am going for a Watson Livery.  Mica Blue nose and White Pearl body, a little ambitious for me but what the heck.  I ordered decals and a paint mask to help me along.  The chassis I built 18 months ago for a STP Nova body but was never happy with the body.  It fits the Watson with minimal adjustments. The chassis wheelbase is a touch long (1/4inch) as you will notice in the picture.   So far the car is primed, interior glued in and driver fitted but not glued nor detail painted.                                 

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Austin Healey Sprite I was walking along the front lot earlier looking for sections that still needed raking, when I heard the rumble of an antique motorcycle engine coming around the corner. I turned around and found that it was a tiny bright red Austin Healey Sprite. I remembered that I probably have one of those packed away somewhere in the basement, possibly even in the right scale. I eventually took a look and found a Healey 3000, as well as a 32’nd scale Sprite. It was a nice AirFix box of the 1958-1961 Sprite MkI. (1997 re-box of 1961 tooling).  However, the contents weren’t so nice and I recalled that I had set it aside deciding that it wasn’t worth spending time on it. But seeing the real thing drive by, gave me renewed motivation. Fig. 1:   You can’t judge a book by its cover – you can’t judge a kit by its box-art ! I had built many model cars when I was a kid, but never a 1/32 scale, and this one looks like the tiniest of the tiny. (I use two large magnifying glasses while doing intricate work, but here I could make use of a microscope!)   I started work on it and found that the tooling, moulding, casting were even worse than I had initially thought. The front fender pontoons were lumpy. The three sections making up the front end of the car did not fit properly. The hood seam in front of the windshield was scored different thicknesses from one segment to the next. Door seams were irregular. Rocker panel seams were different heights and shapes between left to right side. Other body features that were supposed to be the same, were different sizes and shapes from each-other, and not symmetrically positioned on the left and right sides. The headlight lenses are nice but the dome sockets they are to fit into on top of the hood are not smooth and semi-circular but are instead elongated leaving excess at the top and a gap at the bottom. There are other inconsistencies that I won’t bother listing, plus more I’m sure to discover. (Once again, it seems that I’ve stumbled into an overly difficult model to work with.)  But I decided to stick with it anyway.  One of the problems for me in this smaller scale, has been motivation, so I decided now that I have a bit, I should make use of it.   Fig. 2:   Sprite in another of the many standard colours, ‘Mint Green’.   I assembled the front end body sections, and started the prep by sanding down those seams and all the lumps on the curved surfaces. I’ve never used body putty on a motorized car, fearing that it may crack under flex during competition, but here I couldn’t avoid it and decided to take the chance. I filled in the top hood seam and the small body-fit gaps in the front, as a start. Fig. 3:   Kit contents.   There is something else about the body that doesn’t seem quite right. I almost bought a 3000 Mk III when I was a youngster, but I don’t know much about the Sprite, so I started searching the references to learn a bit about the car. If I’m going to the trouble of building it, I want to do it right. I couldn’t find matching wheels in my collection, so I tried the body onto a ‘Carrera Go’ chassis, and even at that 1/43 scale, the chassis was too large for this tiny body ( ~10.5 cm x 4 cm; ~4” x 1 ½” ) . With the kit wheels in place, the body looked very high off the tech block. I thought the problem may be that the wheels were out of scale too large. Doing a search and some arithmetic, I found that the kit tires are properly scaled and do correspond to the vintage Sprite tires, “Cross-ply 5.20-13 tyres”, which are apparently 23.1” or 587mm overall diameter (on nominal 13” rims). The kit wheels have a Rim diam = 11mm,  Tire diam = 18mm,  giving a Track clearance = 7mm with tires touching the inside of the fenders, and that already appears far too high for the tiny sportscar. Adding a 2 mm tire/fender clearance on the model, (which would be more realistic and would be needed to allow for minimum body roll), gives 9 mm track clearance, and would convert to 288mm, or 11.3” road clearance on the real car. (That 2mm tire/fender scale clearance converts to only  2 ½ ” tire/inside fender clearance available to the real car, still far too small.)   I don’t own a sports car, but the road clearance from the bottom of the rocker panel of my mini-van is only 8 ½” ; the other cars in the garage are lower.  Since the wheels are to correct scale, the only conclusion I can draw from this analysis is that the model is out of scale too shallow. As a result, they had to cut the wheel arches too close to the top of the body. The shallow body also gives very little clearance for the tires inside the fenders thus the whole body is raised far too high off the track. All of this is even apparent from photos of the real car. (Exterior photos, as well as photos under the bonnet show that there is plenty of space, and structure, between the top of the tire and top of the fender.)   Fig’s.  4 & 5:   Body proportions of the kit and the real car. It’s very obvious from comparison of these two photos, that the model body is out of scale too shallow, streamlined. (Compare the heights of the door panels, the heights of the fenders above the cut-outs, and the space from top of tire to top of fender.) Unfortunately, it’s an effect that can’t be corrected on this model without major surgery. On the other hand, using smaller wheels helps with the body height and track clearance, but makes the wheel cut-outs on the model look even larger .  (I may have to do what I see done on my Ninco XK120 and many other sportscar models - build a step drop between the body and chassis. Even on the real car, some chassis components show below the bottom edge of the body. However, such a step will limit my chassis design and it’s dynamics.)   This thing has given me so much trouble; Looks like my initial assessment was correct and I should have just left it in the box! In any case, now it’s become a challenge! So I have been searching for correctly scaled rims and tires. I have worked out four possible chassis designs to fit this tiny body, but until I have the wheels in hand I can’t finalize the adjustments on the body or the detailed dimensions of the chassis. I’m looking for rims 13” nominal which usually work out of be 13mm diameter at the centre ridge and 11.5 mm diameter at the outside edge, depending on the manufacturer. I need 5mm wide for the front pair and 7mm for the rear. Corresponding tires would be 18mm diam before truing.  It's going to be difficult to compensate for the shallow body; I may have to do other adjustments, but I want to get the best balance possible.   I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.   Vincent Van Gogh    

      Started by: FelixFelix in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      FelixFelix

    • 1/87 fun Inspired by MIA’s Aston Martin article I thought I’d post a pic of an Ho transporter and cargo I picked up on my most recent visit to Ireland. It is a postal vehicle breakdown lorry made by Oxford die cast as are its cargo.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford V8 Special – #32 – Ireneu Correa – 1935 Rio Grand Prix Many consider Ireneu Correa as the 'grandfather' of Brazilian motor racing since he was the first Brazilian to win an international race - the 1934 Rio Grand Prix - which was raced on the lengthy Gavea course. A little history on the Rio Grand Prix can be found here. South American racers who competed in early motor sport events throughout the Americas favoured and raced North American models right up to the outbreak of the second world war and this was particularly true for Correa until his death in 1935. These models were not elegant - they were in fact very hard to look at - but in the 1930's they achieved successes in part because their competition was focused on motor sporting events back on the European continent. But by the mid to late 30's European entries would begin to dominate major south American events such as the Rio Grand Prix. Correa trained in the United States as a mechanic in order to modify and prepare his own race cars. The entry which he prepared for his return as Champion of the Rio Grand Prix in 1935 was yet another Ford - a V8 Special - entered as #32. Unfortunately on the first lap while chasing the race leader Correa would skid out of control and hit a tree launching his car into the canal - an accident that he would not survive. Believe it or not his car would return to race again but became known as 'the cursed car' after killing another pilot. And so with that historical perspective in mind I decided to kitbash a Lindberg Ford kit into something unusual to compete against a deluge of European models for a new 'pre-war' class - an early to mid '30's Ford V8 Special, as prepared and raced by Correa in the 1935 Rio Grand Prix. I'm not a rivet counter or a scale fanatic nor do I believe that a slot car must be as detailed as a static model so I kept an open mind when planning the chassis, but first I would have to bash a body. My priority was for this car to look right when circling the track. That being said I still wanted the model to be as close to scale and as detailed as possible. It was also imperative that the guide be hidden as much as possible and not be visible at all when viewed from above. I shortened, lowered and narrowed the back of the kit body and then fabricated the rear end using styrene sheet and tubing to make the extra fuel tank and crown gear cover (to which the spare tire would be fixed) and wrapped it with a thin piece of L shaped styrene stock. The interior floor was raised in the centre to accommodate the FF050 motor and two DArt racing seats were modified to fit side by side. At the front I added a few styrene plates to cover the gaps left underneath the motor covers along with a few body flaps where the windscreen used to be. I used as much of the frame that came with the kit as I could - and left the fender seam and the trim underneath the front grill. The rear of the frame together with the bottom of the fuel tank (I think that is what it is) was cut off and added underneath the new rear end. The rest of the kit would be tossed except for the steering wheel, shifter, brake and dashboard.  A complete DArt 'Nouvolari' driver figure would lose its head in favour of another DArt replacement. and that would come later. When I was finished I was left with two pieces - the complete body, floor and rear end and the separate frame which could be glued to the body after paint. I turned 5 wheels to 16.5 x 5.3mm which would accommodate a set of DA0210 urethane tires and DArt spoked inserts. I know these inserts have too many spokes but I liked their overall look and how they extended well beyond the wheel flange. I also cut off the ears leaving just a small round cap at the centre instead of the original two eared knock off. In order to ensure that the installation of each insert (after paint) would go without a hitch I drilled out material from the backside in the centre of each insert to accommodate any small extension of the axle and the washer for independent fronts. The overall diameter of these wheels with tires mounted and trued was 23mm. With dimensions of the body and wheels now in hand it was time to plan the chassis. I fabricated a small motor bracket for the BWMS050 motor and would use two sizes of piano wire and brass tubing to join everything together. I went with very small Slot.It bushings at the rear in order to give me flexibility in mounting the rear of the body. Due to the ride height of the chassis and with several parts needing to be attached at different levels this chassis took a little more planning to make sure it would turn out right - measure twice, cut once. The motor would sit 3mm below the chassis and the guide sleeve 5mm below. The chassis didn't need to be too strong since it was for a low power motor and a lightweight body - and was never travelling to a proxy race. I decided to mount the body using some styrene tube into which the chassis would 'snap' at the rear and a #226 styrene post up front into which the 'V' shaped wire brace would be secured with a single screw. Material was removed from these three contact points until the ride height was where I wanted it and there was enough body float. Urethane DArt washers would allow sufficient body float and prevent the screw from ever backing out of the brass insert. My own research didn't turn up much to assist with this project so I needed to improvise and make educated guesses where appropriate. With a Brazilian owner/pilot it was more than likely that this model would have raced with a pale yellow body on top of a green frame/chassis with black numbers. I sprayed the wheels a lighter shade of green and weathered them with several washes of dirt. The body was sprayed yellow and then the paint was sanded using 1200 wet paper to give the finish a dull, worn and weathered look. Since I used grey primer underneath the colour changes slightly depending on how much paint was removed. Everything else was hand painted. Number decals were printed on my inkjet printer and sealed using Crystal Clear - and then applied. Nothing was used to seal or coat the decals after they were applied but I still might apply some Micro Set decal sealer by hand... I made a small cover from large styrene tubing which I painted flat black and glued to the front of the guide to hide the clips when viewed from the front. Other details included the textured belt and buckle and a spare with a small aluminium rod that was bent and fixed to the centre of the hub which secured the wheel on the real car. I planned to add a second tire underneath the spare but have not done so (yet).  The chassis components for this model: BWMS050 w10t brass pinion x 28t Slot.It crown (for now - gearing will be changed though); DArt 16.5mm x 5.3mm wheels with DArt inserts; DArt DA0210 urethane tires; Slot.It rear bushings and PM axles; Scalextric Round Guide with Slot.It braid and generic silicone lead wire; The basic specs (at present): 60.3g overall weight; Track: front = 53mm / rear=52mm (excluding inserts); Wheelbase: 80mm (83mm from guide); Chassis Clearance: 8mm / Min. Clearance: 5mm (at motor/bracket); The driver still needs a pair of goggles and a co-pilot is in the works too but there is no rush now that the model is ready for action. For more pictures of this eyesore visit our model gallery here.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 2 years ago

      DBDB

    • Los Angeles Slot Car Museum Greetings: I was looking at Google News and noticed a story (or paid advertisement?) in Motor Trend about the LASCM.    Thinking about my Revell Lang Cooper, Gar Vic, and Dynamic Chassis slot cars buried in a dump somewhere makes me ask "WHAT WAS I THINKING?" https://www.motortrend.com/features/los-angeles-slot-car-museum-profile

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 2 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Gesswein Canada A great jeweller’s supply store near the airport. They have lots of specialized tools and supplies which are easily used for scratch building as well. https://www.gessweincanada.com/ even little finger protectors for when handling hot soldering surfaces. Check it out sometime. The store is small but lots of useful items.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Nova Gasser The gasser class may open up the field to some new body styles. This just came out as a current release from Atlantis. I was a bit concerned about the stock hood for a gasser. But the problem was already solved. There was no mention of this bonus scoop anywhere on the box. Nice surprise. The examples.

      Started by: KenKen in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • When Fangio Met The 860 Monza Nice short story and video on Fangio's last year with Ferrari https://www.ferrari.com/en-EN/magazine/articles/when-juan-fangio-met-the-ferrari-860-monza?UID=4188062760&dmc_uid=4188062760&utm_campaign=New_Ferrari&utm_medium=email&MID=3900163919&utm_content=210930+TOFM+EN+%28mondo+GT+EN+-+Settembre%29&utm_source=newsletter

      Started by: JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 2 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Rainer Schlegelmilch photo archive Hi guys I’ve long admired the amazing photography and coffee table books of long time Motorsports photographer Rainer Schlegelmilch. During a recent online search I found his website which contains thousands of his photos organized by year,series etc. thought you might enjoy perusing them. https://www.schlegelmilch.com/racing-years/nggallery/1960s/1962/ cheers! Bill  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • Simple Spray Booth It's cold outside so those of us who have cars to build need to paint indoors. Here are some pictures of a simple portable spray booth I put together that helps to keep the air fresher in my home. It was made using a clear polypropylene tote that I got on sale from Canadian Tire. This material is fairly easy to cleanup after painting and it allows in outside light for greater visibility. It uses a box in box design that allows for perfect sealing and easier portability. It uses an equipment rack fan that I bought on Amazon for just over 20 bucks. This fan runs on house voltage, is brushless and sparkproof and moves 110 cfm of air. this type of fan allows you to use any normal hobby paint including nail polish and automotive lacquers. The filter consists of lighting grid cut to fit  and fine aquarium floss built into a dollar store food saver. The fan is bolted through both boxes and the exhaust fitting making for a leakproof seal. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. The exhaust uses 4" semi flexible metal tubing attached to a woodworking exhaust fitting at one end using a 4" hose clamp and a dryer vent quick connect at the other. This is attached to the other half of the  quick connect that I have bolted  to a wooden window insert. As the main box was originally a tote the hose clamp can be loosened and the entire exhaust be put inside ready to be moved. My wife was painting a C4 corvette for Group 25 that Ken kindly gave her so we had a chance to test out the design. It worked flawlessly. It's best to start the fan before painting and to leave it on for a few minutes after you finish to make sure no solvents escape back into your home. Please remember that you should also be using appropriate safety equipment for the type of finish you're spraying. As I tend to use lacquers that means a respirator , gloves and eye protection. The whole project went together for about $75.00 worth of materials. I hope some of you find this useful. Let's get building! Cheers Steve  

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 3 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Dart Hobbies Porsche 804 Four years ago, I read Art's post on how to prepare the Dart Porsche 804 kit and I immediately  wanted one. Followed most of his advice and placed  it over a simple chassis - from a simple mind. Originally it had an AB Slot motor bracket but I was never happy with the performance.  I have since built a new chassis with a homemade motor plate allowing me to angle the motor and achieve a lower ground clearance.  Just waiting use it in a race.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • 3D Printed body’s Good morning everyone, It's been awhile since I've posted anything on the site.  I hope everyone is doing well. We can all thank JCB for this find.  Click on the link below to view a new site with 3D printed models for scratch building.  There are a few Citroen models, a Mini, a Holden, a Ford, a lotus 30, a Fiat 1600, Aston Martin DB5 and a few more... https://www.3dprintable.shop/?fbclid=IwAR27xQBEprdHvyfSQhSKX9Blg2hgX2KQ0biJseL9NFMKMYR6GPfksNH1QL0

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford Model T Hot Rod Greetings from Scarborough.  It's time to contribute to this Forum after reading it for so long.  Although I race with "the other Club", I did race a few R32 events several years ago and Hot Rods was one of the classes.   After using a borrowed car, I decided to scratch build my own.   Despite being in the Hobby since the 60's (off and on), I never a soldered a chassis together so this was going to be interesting.   I used the Lindberg 1925 Ford Model T and added a box (made from styrene) in the rear to hide the crown gear and AB Slot motor bracket. It has  RS Slot wheels with Dart inserts and Dart tires of course.   For a first attempt, I was quite pleased with it.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      FelixFelix

    • Ranchero Gasser ideas I've been looking into Ranchero Gasser examples online. There are differences between them depending on budget. One thing they all have in common is the front end is quite high. But the exhaust systems and gas tanks can be all over the map. Here are some examples. Front mounted tank with budget headers, and straight open carbs. Side-dump exhausts with a very cool air-scoop over a super-charger. Exhaust out the fender wells, no hood over the chrome engine, and nice white walls on the rear wheels. Tank up front and regular headers. This is a BW pic of a slightly newer model Ranchero. The thing that I noted on this gasser is the rear tires are tucked under the wheel wells. The front end is high, the back end is low compared to the cars that have the wheel wells chopped out and totally rounded. I laid this on the table for a quick look at this project. The ruler would simulate the track height. I like the side-dump exhaust myself. Maybe a nice air-scoop on the hood, and little gas tank up front?

      Started by: KenKen in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

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    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Merry Christmas Everyone! Merry Christmas Everyone I hope that you are all doing well and that the Holidays give you some respite from this topsy-turvy-time. Many of you are ankle deep in new projects, that all look great by the way, and I hope to have some new stuff in the New Year to share with the group. May 2021 be a better, brighter year and give us all a chance to race together again. Cheers Steve

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 3 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Soldering Essentials for Chassis Building – What You Need 40/60W Soldering Iron Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons - Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip. Tinning Compound New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned. Solder A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis. Flux and Pre-Cleaning You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years. Post Cleaning Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush. Soldering Surfaces & Jigs You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters. Pliers/Cutters A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool. Rotary Tool A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube. Drill with Assortment of Bits Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering. Sandpaper You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces. Files Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks. Optional Tools A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes. Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Boulevard Cruisers I stumbled across a very detailed kit last year I thought was a loner. At the Group25 show last weekend, I discovered there is a series of these cars. Gunze Sangyo is the manufacturer of these stunning 1/32 kits. You rarely see this type of detail. The chrome is over the top and really sparkles. There 7-cars to choose from: A 1955 Chevy Nomad, 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy Brougham, 59 Caddy Seville, 59 Impala Sport, 59 Fairlane 500, and a 63 Thunderbird. Many are around $25 on EBay.   The 59 Impala comes with 4-options for the roof. Open back seat, rear seat cover, soft top, or hard top. The 63 Thunderbird comes with 3-options for the roof. Open back seat, tonneau cover, or full roof. Art saw these kits at the show and it inspired him enough to suggest a new class of street racers without numbers. May I suggest it be called "Boulevard Cruisers"? White walls, low riders, slow motors... I also located a 59 Eldorado Biarritz. It's supposed to arrive next week. I really hope this turns into a new class in the future as Art suggested. These cars from Gunze Sangyo are stunningly beautiful! EBay search "gunze sangyo 1/32"

      Started by: KenKen in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 41
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Rio Grand Prix (Gavea) 1934 – 1937 In the 1930's the Grande Prêmio da Cidade de Rio de Janeiro were held on the infamous 11.16km long Gavea track known locally as Trampolin do Diablo ("The devil's spring board"). This course followed the coast on the edge of a cliff and returned to Gavea up in the mountains where it featured a series of hairpins in hazardous terrain... a wonderful historic course! And the vehicles that raced there ranged from lowly Ford V8's to Alfa's, Ferrari's, Bugatti's and yes - even an Autounion! Click on the attached .pdf below to review this article - it features interesting facts with numerous pictures about an obscure Grand Prix course and the pilots and their cars that navigated it... Enjoy! :yahoo:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • #40 – 1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 This build is the famous #40-1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 which has been has in progress for more than six, months due to delays with the decals arriving in a timely manner due to the pandemic.  I custom designed and printed decals for this model.  The orange section in front of the car will be painted on as it proved to be impossible to get a decals to adhere to this area in an acceptable manner. Photos of the actual car     My attempt The body has been paired with a custom built aluminium chassis - 100% built by the JMS garage.  The 21.5k Piranha motor has been glued onto the chassis in an AW configuration.  Originally I had used a 12T pinion, which was switched to 11T to get more brake. This photo with windshield and gas caps installed. Ready to race... zoom, zoom. Thanks for looking.    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special As previously announced, see attached photos of the completed model of the 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special.  This model placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500 with Jim Rathmann at the wheel. This model will be run with a custom built Aluminium chassis. The BWA ff050 motor is glued into place with epoxy as is the plastic bracket holder for the extended motor arm/shaft and pinion.  A touch of solder was applied to each side of the spring supporting the extended motor shaft. A photo of the body kit. The parts have all been painted in this photo, including the seat, driver, all silver parts and inserts.  The inserts do not fit the RS slot wheels, Dart inserts will be used instead. The wheels are RS slot 15x7mm rear and 15x5mm front.  Rear tires are the new Dart D7.5.  The trued diameter is 23.40mm for the rear and 21.2mm for the front.  Track width is 53.65mm rear and 52mm front. Thanks for looking.              

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Indy Roadsters are coming! I'm sure we've all been looking forward to the debut of the Indy Roadsters. After talking to Art at Monday nights race it appears we will have a race  scheduled towards the end of this years S32 season. The rules are firming up and here is what we have so far. -Any true, front engined  roadster that was registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards to the very last roadster in 1967 is eligible. -Only the FF050 slow  motor may be used in a front motor, rear drive  configuration with the motor ahead of the cockpit. -Cars must weigh a minimum of 80 grams. -Cars may use any size wheels and tires as long as they represent a reasonably scale appearance. -Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced in are allowed For anyone having trouble locating roadster bodies e-Bay is a great resource. Geodies is a seller that usually has several eligible bodies available and he is willing to combine shipping. Here is a link to a current body on sale https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-32-Bardahl-Ferrari-Indianapolis-resin-body-kit-slotcar/193310078141?hash=item2d022db4bd:g:izcAAOSwDuleJzIi. e-Bay also often has old Eldon roadsters on sale. Rules may need a little polishing going forward but hopefully by keeping things relatively simple we can all  rise tothe challenge of building a front engine roadster . I'm looking forward to seeing what we all come up with . Lets get building!    

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 17
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Strombecker McLaren M1B     Strombecker made some of the nicest molds, and the McLaren M1B, was one of their nicest, and very much to scale,....it is a tiny little bugger !! It really does not look all that great in stock form, sitting high, and without any details/decals. Anyway, it has been sitting in my workroom for eons, and with the forced hometime we are all enduring, I have decided to make it my next build. Trying to make this..............this one is not mine, unfortunately mine is a little worse for wear.......... Into something like this................so a few bits to be made/added. I started with the chassis, as I find these the easy part of the job..........a simple single rail chassis with .047 main rails, set for 2mm+ clearance with 19+ mm tyres. This will be powered by a  FF050 motor. I have started the bodywork........removed all bits, opened the vents, (as they should be , they were closed in the original), and added a front diaplane, and a rear spoiler. Still a lot of clean up to do...........but the rear molded in screens/vents have been opened as on the original. The car is tiny,....I think I mentioned that,.....luckily the shortest wheelbase setting on my jig was perfect !! Still miles to go, but, I will post updates...... Stay Safe Chris Walker

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • 1963 Thunderbird This is a 1/32 scale Gunze Sangyo model kit.  I had never heard of these model kits until I saw three models that Ken had built a few months ago.  I was inspired by the quality of the parts and the fine details incorporated in this kit and I always loved the look of the Thunderbird.  The model falls into the new category of Boulevard Cruisers. A special thanks to Ken who assisted with the chassis build and was a great painting coach. The model comes with a back seat and roof.  I preferred the look of the convertible with two seats and head rests. The BWA Scan motor is glued to the chassis using epoxy in an anglewinder configuration.  Geared 14 pinion x 30 spur gear. Here is the model with a headless driver.  I considered installing a female as the pilot in this model but didn't have a usable torso with bust, therefore A street version pilot without a Helmut will be installed.  The kit comes with two different sets of chrome wheels, I carved out the inserts and will be using them to finish this model. Very pleased with how well this car runs.  I think the headless driver would have been pulled over for high speed driving if the cops weren't in lockdown mode ;-). Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment.  

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Cadillac, Cadillac, Cadillac Eldorado Well I started work on the '57 Caddy Brougham. Ken's comparison pic with his Nascar reminded me that I had a little used scratch chassis under my Petty Plymouth so I thought I could probably re-purpose the chassis to fit under the Caddy. Wheelbase needs a bit of a stretch but fortunately I can add an additional axle tube in front of the existing tube so I can convert the chassis back and forth if needed. Cheers! Bill

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 14
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed...  The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 6
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body.   The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 13
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1951 Indy Kurtis Offy Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one.  Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process on one using my oodles of free time.  The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat.  The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches.  A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight.  The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide.  Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis. For the rear maybe the same with the chassis linked in to the brass tubing but need to think that through.  Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.  

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Interesting 60’s automotive culture video Hello all, I hope this message finds you and family healthy and safe!! This 50 minute 60's video is pretty cool,narrated by Lloyd Bridges(above water), and though is shown as "Ken Miles Cobra testing", that segment is limited, though at about the 6:30 mark, he is seen testing something with his son, that is near and dear to our hearts. :>) It's more a reflection of Automotive culture, from Kart racing, Road racing, Drags, Land speed pursuit etc, and some cameo appearances; 'Fabian', Ed Roth, Chuck Barris...I found it a nice distraction to 24/7 ALL COvid, all the time... Hope you enjoy, stay well! https://youtu.be/7vUmHEeuIKM

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Historical 1:1

    • 3
    • 3
    • 4 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • And now for something completely different F1 Racing Sim Hey guys I've been gathering up a lot of stuff over the last couple years to put this together but never had time to get it all going properly. Well due to the covid lock down I took a couple days to see if this would actually work and finally after many hours of farting around with various monitor/cable/graphics card configurations and giving up many times in frustration it actually works!! I conveniently happen to have a curved octagonal wall at the end of my basement where I have 3 cheapy projectors hooked up to an older render farm computer I picked up reasonably cheap. 3.2 GHz processor with dual Nvidia Quadro 4800 graphics cards, 8 gigs of ram. Not super powerful by today's standards but still no slouch. I'm running a copy of F1 2011 as that is the most recent sim I've got. I actually bought it in 2012 and never had a system good enough to run it until now. The effect is pretty cool as you can look to the side and see stuff flashing by. Picture isn't as crisp as on led monitors but it is usable. Total viewing area is about 5 ft by about 25 ft or 5760 by 1080 pixels I've also got a small surround audio system with sub I plan to hook up to get the full effect. Anyway thought you might like to see my little side project even though it isn't slot related it is racing after all. Now to build the cockpit and detail the driver ;^)

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Interesting Reality Bites

    • 4
    • 3
    • 4 years ago

      JohnnySlotsJohnnySlots

    • Can you I.D. This kit? I found this at a show a few years ago. It looks like a Monogram static kit from the 60's based on the bottom chassis piece but the interior has Strombecker body mounting posts. Interestingly for a static kit, it also has aluminum Revell like rims and rubber tires on threaded metal axles. Not quite a Lola T70. ie different windshield and body details. Intake was missing so I added a D'Art Hobbies aftermarket intake. It may make it to the track at some point in the future.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 3
    • 4
    • 4 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 11
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32   (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34  Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires.   Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit:   Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements.   It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.)         Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix.  

      Started by: FelixFelix in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 70 TA Camaro colour change I have a blue Z28 Camaro for stock TA class. There are several of the exact same colour and number. It was time to create Ken's red zed. It took 2-coats of paint over 2-days to cover the dark blue. I could not avoid orange-peel on the roof. More paint would have created runs and the rest of the car was too nice to ruin. I'll try buffing the roof.

      Started by: KenKen in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 10
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1963 Rover BRM (1969 Aurora dual purpose kit) I met a guy at the Torcan model show. He said he had a rare 1/32 dual purpose kit that came with parts to be static, or a slot car. He said it was a Rover BRM. I never heard of it, but I like my BRM 578. So my interested was peaked. The real car has a turbine engine! Nuts! The kit is at least 50-years old. Aurora Plastics was sold in 1969. Then again in 1971. The company was parted out in 1977. This is what came in the box. Besides missing the instructions, it's also missing one headlight from what I can tell. The chome roll bar, inserts, steering wheel, and tail light bezels all sparkle nicely. Some kits are so far from the real car that they are an insult to the manufacturer. This model may actually look a bit more sleek compared to the real car. I'm not complaining about this one in the least. It looks cool to me.

      Started by: KenKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 4 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 2019 Mosport Vintage race June 14-16 If anyone is interested this weekend is the annual vintage race at Mosport. https://canadiantiremotorsportpark.com/pages/canadian-historic-grand-prix Featured marque is Volvo. Doesn't look like as big an event as in recent years but still worth checking out if you've never been. If I can track down an entry list I will post it.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • Collector's Studio in Yorkville Yesterday I went to the Collector's Studio in Yorkville and they have some amazing F1 and sportscar memorabilia there. Race worn helmets, F1 trophies, car body panels, paintings, high end die cast etc. It's like a museum! If you're ever in the Avenue Rd. & Bloor area it is worth checking out! Prices are pretty high but just to see the stuff in one place is a treat! http://collectorstudio.com/    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 1
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • F1 Masters series at Tremblant July 12th-14th I went to this a few years back and it was pretty good. They had less turnout than usual that year because of other competing events but maybe this year will be better. http://www.mastershistoricracing.com/historic-formula-1-usa/championship/ Not sure if I can go yet but it does coincidentally coincide with the start of my holiday week so who knows? Too bad there is no camping at the track though. Waking up to the sounds of race engines is like nothing else. It is also a great historic track that maintains most of it's original features.    

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 1
    • 0
    • 4 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Larry's Opel GT Hello fellow racers. Larry has been having some ipad troubles posting pics to start his Opel GT build thread. I offered to get the ball rolling for his first build. He built it for, and raced it at the last Targa Florio. The following are quotes from Larry. So to start I researched as many angles of the car as I could. I sanded down the fender well lip so the fender was flatter so my flare would sit flatter at the back to the body when glued. I stuck painters tape to the fenders and traced where the door jam was, where the front bumper came around the side and the outline of the fender itself. Next I glued three pieces of styrene together for each fender. Stuck the tape to the blank and cut it out. Didn’t cut out the wheel opening yet to keep it stable. Sanding and body putty, lastly I cut out the wheel opening to fit the wheels. And then this happened! Way to go Larry! (Those were Ken's words) Please direct your questions and positive comments to Larry for his fine build. :good: Thank you.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • D'Art Ferrari 312P The first time I laid eyes on Art's Ferrari 312P my brain said "I want that!". Based on using 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I started to rough out a chassis for bearings. Wasn't sure how to attach the body.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 31
    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • SCC Canada Decals #$@!ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Hello lads, had to re-number a car for pending event, had purchased SCC 'White' numerals, first time using the product, OMFG, I'm sure some within the GTA heard some unsavory language last evening... Took 14 of them to successfully transfer 3!!! They kept disintegrating, separating, no matter duration of time in water nor temperature. Curious as to whether anyone else has used (tried to)? If so, any success, what's your secret? :negative: :negative:

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Decals

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    • 4 years ago

      AvatarJimbo

    • Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red  and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up This low cost ARII Owner's Club model kit found its way to my hobby bench and was adapted/upgraded into a 'low power' track utility vehicle for The Ring. Background on the box reads: Honda was established in 1948, and since then, it kept introducing a lot of famous motor bikes. The model "Honda T360" was the first car that Honda produced. It was called "Sport Truck" rather than "Light Truck". It was mounted with a 354 cc, 4-carb HOHC engine, and could make the maximum 30 hp. Two months later, "Honda Sport 500" was marketed. It is tiny (but tall): body measures approx. 92mm x 40mm; front and rear track of 39mm; wheelbase of approx. 63mm with guide post set approx. 66mm from rear axle; and weighs approx. 61.2mm (complete). I kept it cheap by using a DArt guide, BWMS050 motor, 8T BWA pinion, scavenged Scalextric 28T crown gear, piano wire for axles and 1/8" brass tubing in place of bushings. In its finished form it is smooth and quiet but for my taste would still benefit with a 10T pinion - which it may get yet - time will tell... Since pictures are 'worth a 1000 words' here are some pictures of this build. You will note I first planned to use styrene clamps to fix the rear of the body to the rear axle sleeves but bailed on that plan for a more reliable method. A rear frame made from piano wire covered by tissue paper soaked in a solution of H2O and white glue (as suggested by f1nutz) plus DArt fog lamps were later added to this model. Several parts were extensively modified as the pictures indicate. I used navy blue tent repair tape to cover the sides of exposed motor and some scrap patio umbrella fabric (painted with a dark wash) courtesy of Porsche911 as mud flaps to cover the crown gear. [foogallery id="10642"] It is fun building something that isn't meant to race... Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

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