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Just a quick update on my recovery process. The cancer is into the bladder wall already. I go for chemo for 12-weeks, followed by another surgery.
I have no idea how I will feel during the chemo. But will try to register for as many races as I can. I will need to take it one day at a time.
Daily life will be an entirely different experience after surgery. I’m told it should get back to some sense of normal after the second recovery. Gosh, I sure look forward to putting this all behind me.
Warm regards,
Ken
Art,
Congrats on your success! I look forward to seeing what you painted!
Sounds like someone has been a bad influence on painting techniques. Oops.
Just before I got into this whole thing. I saw a can of Testors “One Shot” modelling paint. The idea of a one shot paint job sounded attractive to a dumb, lazy newbie. I made it my goal to try and achieve this skill. Not realizing that all rattle can paints require several tack-coats before the final wet coat. I fumbled the whole way through. I made every mistake in the book. I was simply too stubborn to let it beat me.
Drew’s trouble shooting article did the trick in the end and saved my bacon. Thanks Drew!
Steve, Luis, Drew, Bill, Austin, and Art. I truly appreciate all the good wishes from everyone. Thank you!!!
I’m looking forward to building and finishing off more cars shortly. I upgraded the paint booth fan a few days before surgery. Too much backwash from the other fan. The doctor says I’m only allowed to lift light plastic slot car bodies, and small paint cans. Perfect!
I also prepared a new Trans Am car to go together (new to me). It’s just a simple assembly and set up now.
Looking forward to racing again.
What project is everyone else working on? I’m bored out of my tree with TV. I am a couch potatoe for an entire week. Lookout after that!
Art,
I am humbled by your kind words and do not feel worthy of them. There are several master painters around here. You included.
You were kind enough to sell me a second M1B kit. There is no question what colour that car will be.
Cheers,
Ken
Hi Art,
I posted a comment on the Corvair thread quite some time ago. Just a few photos for inspiration. Now I know why it’s stuck in limbo.
One old black and white dealership pic has the phrase “Be a Swinger in a Stinger”. Pretty funny statement today.
I thought the M1B was offered in camel yellow. I should have done more homework. This M1B was repainted in it’s 1967 livery colour. I missed a good one.
Here’s the documentation on “Bring a Trailer”.
I found this picture Google Images of an M1B that has the title “Bruce McLaren 1966”. It’s a different car from the one above although it looks the same. The old chrome mirrors are quick to note instead of the new style black mirrors on the copy-cat.
It sure does look like it’s an older photo. But I’m not an expert. Does this car look like a legit livery? Thanks in advance for your comments.
Ouch! That guy’s going to need more than one IV of Tequila with that leg missing!
Cool looking stuff, Bill. 🙂
Drew,
I humbly thank you for remembering.
It took a daring phone call to Mr. Arutunoff in Tulsa, Oklahoma to learn the colour. White with a black hood. A very nice and polite man to speak with.
Luis has Anatoly’s all white sister car from the previous year. Art also has an unbuilt Revell Corvette kit.
It was a fun build too. It awaits the next Targa Florio.
Nice return on the investment!
Anatoly Arutunoff had a ZL1 Corvette entered in the 1971 Targa Florio. He said it ended up in a museum in Europe somewhere. He wasn’t about to drag it all the way back home. I wonder what that car is worth now? And where it resides?
Gary,
Thank you for the heads up.
I remember he was a 1960’s drag-race legend.
May “The Flyin’ Hawaiian” R.I.P.
Yesterday was my lucky day to have met Felix at MVL. He donated an extremely wonderful gift for the green Lotus-30 with dual carbs. Even the box is super-cool!
Thanks a million, Felix!!!
Very cool history. Very nice work on the model!
Thanks for posting!
The Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale road car is super nice too.
The Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale is a mid-engined sports car built by Italian car manufacturer Alfa Romeo. It is one of the world’s first supercars; it was the fastest commercially available car for the standing kilometer when introduced. 18 examples were produced between 1967 and 1969.
The concours restoration is coming along nicely. This looks to be an incredibly accurate build so far. Nice work Felix. 🙂
Wow! Nice photo MiA. That’s both 214’s, and the DP215 on one trailer!
Very cool to see your HO collection, F1Nutz.
Luis,
Beautiful looking car!
At under $8. The ARII kits are perfect for scratch-builders. They do require a little fiddling.
I just got back with tons of stuff! It was nuts! Michael was helping to carry the bag of goodies, but it was pulling him over to one side. We had to put the stuff in the car half way through the show. Too much weight
Michael and I went together. We met Bill, Joe, Chuck, and Larry Johns. We did some catching up. Good to see Larry after all this time. What a super nice group of gentleman.
Joe had his green Datsun 240Z out, and Larry was driving his custom purple pickup. Very cool to see!
Mr. Vanksi was also seen floating through the table of slot cars.
Ken
Bill,
Nice pics!
I can’t make up my mind, so I’ll just sum it up by saying I’ll take one of everything, thanks. 🙂
As I examine the kit a little more. There’s enough inner fender material and firewall to leave the hood off and expose the entire engine. It’s not like I need to make room for the guide. The guide will sit far below the engine bay.
This has the potential to become a very interesting looking build for those exposed engine lovers. 🙂
My humble apologies. I bought that kit at Panther Hobbies yesterday for $29.95. I think that they will be available at most hobby shops now.
Another Nova is/was still sitting on the shelf at Panther as of yesterday.
It seems that Molotow is out of stock everywhere I look. I saw these 3-liquid chrome pens on Amazon for $22.95 delivery included, and took a chance. Amazon returns are easy enough.
Turns out that the pens works just as good as Molotow. Heck, I can chrome the entire bench with the 3mm tip.
Do you see your name at the top right corner of the screen? Put the curser over it and try clicking on “Edit Profile”.
Now that I see the photo slightly enlarged. You can see where it’s been touched up. 🙂
Cheers,
Ken
Hi Art,
Just something to note. It’s not very important.
The system won’t allow me to upload an Avatar photo, or create a new signature. Nothing happens when I press any of the tabs.
It’s time I stop referring to myself as a newbie in my signature. These things tend to happen over time.
Incidently, if you type the old analog smile, the system converts it to the graphic version. 🙂
Not sure about the other analog symbols. We would need to look up how to spell the various smileys.
Ken
Hi Steve,
I humbly apologize for the incorrect wording. I meant to say 3-completely different cars, but all in the same HR+ class. We need to see how they race together, pass each other, etc.
I’m flexible to try and meet anytime.
Ken
R.I.P. Mr. Carlos.
He was a great driver, and survived the tail end of the deadliest era in F1.
Quote from Jackie Stewart “From the five years, 1968-73, if you were an F1 driver at that time, there was a very likely chance that you would have died”.
I just went back and noticed all 5-slots are taken for Monday. We can easily do it another time.
Let’s please agree to sit down over a coffee before going any further? Talking is so much easier…
Ken
Steve and Felix,
Thank you kindly for the ideas and suggestions. I also have an opinion on track width limitations.
Steve. Your Willys body should easily fit a 60mm max track width. It might even suit it perfectly. I am in favour of 60mm max track width. The body can stick out within reason like the other classes. So your Willys is good to go.
I agree to build a 60mm track width HR+. But the test will require 3-evenly matched cars to remain grouped together on the track for several laps. One car by itself is not a fair test of track width.
That being said. Let’s talk about what cars we want to build? We can also negotiate making three aluminum HR+ chassis. It’s much faster if you just need to assemble the chassis, and simply choose a colour to paint the body. Or maybe Steve can make a 3D chassis for Felix to speed up the process of making a car? We should speak off-forum. We would all need to make a promise not to get stuck in the details, and bang out a car ASAP.
The bottom line at the moment is… the test can’t really happen until 3-cars are ready to go.
Everyone’s time is equally important. We all have responsibilities outside slot cars. Like everyone else already mentioned. I too would need to put something aside to make this test happen.
Let’s please talk out the details? Nothing is etched in stone. I’m hopeful for the future. Threads are a terrible place to have a discussion. Are the three musketeers (Steve, Felix, and myself) all going to be there on Monday at Art’s place? :yahoo:
Felix,
I am 100% on yours, and Steve’s side. I stood alone when the topic came up. I am merely saying that had you and Steve been able to attend. We would have been 3-voices strong. It would have given the meeting a different dynamic.
I am not blaming anyone for not being able to attend. I was lucky to be there myself.
We are all friends. I’ll gladly chip in and make a new car for the HR+ test in favour of your argument. Let’s see how it goes?
Ken
I bought 3 of those insane torque motors. Oops.
Steve and Felix. Kindly let me know if you want to play with fire? I’ll put your names on one for each of you. :wacko:
My advice might be to put it in something ugly that you won’t mind hitting the wall at a rapid rate. Can you say “Ferrari drywall imprints”?
While my blue RS-61 had the fastest lap of the night at the last race it was in. Art’s silver RS-61 with a slower motor came in 1st place. Live and learn.
When I first joined S32. I wanted to go faster, faster, faster! I bought a 35k motor with enough torque to light up the rear tires the entire 19-foot straight at the Ring. F1Nutz was the first to point out the Porsche RS-61 was fish-tailing the entire way. I ended up hating that motor.
These are two of my favorite motors today. I have more fun and laugh while racing with these than any other. I even prefer the slim line BWMS050 over the BWNC1.
Hi Felix,
Today was specifically put aside to see if any tweaks to the rules were needed. I was merely giving the minutes of the meeting. Concerning track width, you’re preaching to the choir. I wanted it widened as well, but my arguement ended up as a minority vote. You could have been there to add to and reinforce your/our/my arguement. I would love to drop the back of my 32-Ford. I’m going to make a different car next time. Problem solved.
This was never supposed to be about re-writing the entire rule book. Just about a few new thoughts regarding a few small changes.
It would be impossible to list all the thoughts and converations that went on today. Being there in person would be the only way to add more to the meeting.
A separate “Rules Committee” was suggested today for future changes and updates. Nothing is cut off or etched in stone. Everything takes time. The future looks bright.
3-sub-classes were just added to the base Hot Rod class. Adding HR+ to four HR classes means a possibility of 4-more classes just to Hot Rod alone. Everyone at the meeting agreed that it’s too much. HR+ probably won’t happen. The cars are often too delicate to go lightning fast anyways.
Everyone at the meeting today commented that yours and Steve’s thoughts were greatly appreciated. You and Steve were dearly missed at this meeting. We surely hope everyone can attend the next meeting.
Ken
I forgot to mention that the Hot Rod class is actually split into 4-classes now.
All builds still fall under the basic Hot Rod rules.
Besides the standard Hot Rod (pre-1949). Rat Rods (Ugly and made up from several different car parts), Street Machines (1950+), and Gassers (nose high unstable buggers) have been added as separate classes.
It is still up to the interpretation of the builder as to what you make. What you build should be easily identifiable. A shiny sports car isn’t a rat rod.
Ken
Greetings my fellow S32 racers. Here is the end result of a lengthy discussion from earlier today concerning rule changes.
Once you open the door to changes, they rarely stop. Are the rules perfect? No. Do they satisfy everyone? No. But many cars have already been built around them, and they seem to stand the test of time.
Two areas that were at the forefront of the discussion were Hot Rod wheel width, and overall track width. After going over the pros and cons of as many aspects we could think of. There was some give and take regarding the Hot Rod class.
1) Overall track width will not change. I fought to widen the width to use a few other bodies. But the reality is, there are really a ton of choices out there already.
2) Hot Rod wheel width can be as wide as you like now so long as the overall outside track width remains with the existing rules.
If you want to use wide wheels and tires as seen in the photo of the “Hot Hemi” from Felix. The big wheels need to be tucked inside the standard track width. The standard Hot Rod motor may not have enough power to push the wheels to win a race. But the choice is yours to make.
No suggestions for changes to the front motor class as of yet. Several cars have been built around the penciled in rules. Let’s start building cars that suit the front motor class and see what issues turn up. We can discuss more at the workshop.
“American Thunder” is merely an event name that would comprise mostly American cars and races such as… Hot Rod, Trans Am, Boulevard Cruisers, CanAm, and SCCA. Boulevard Cruisers will still be called Boulevard Cruisers. (Street Racers was actually the first suggested name for Boulevard Cruisers)
Old pick-up trucks are allowed in Hot Rod class when specifically built to Hot Rod rules. There are a few nice old trucks kits out there. I’m thinking of building one myself.
The rules will stay the same with the exception of the Hot Rod wheels being any width now.
There was a discussion about starting a “Rules Commitee” in the future. But it will take time to figure out the best way to make this commitee fair to everyone.
We hope this keeps almost everyone happy for now?
Cheers,
Ken
Oh my goodness!
Felix, they look absolutely marvelous! :yahoo:
I can’t thank you enough! :good:
Cheers,
Ken
A little more progress on the McLaren.
The car runs and corners well at 60-grams. The body details and inserts are next on the list to complete.
Slow class SCCA here we come! :yahoo:
Hi Felix,
Thank you kindly for asking. I sold the old clunky lathe and bought a new mill instead. Making chassis turned out to be more of a priority than making the trumpets.
Hopefully I will find a trumpet solution before these cars race again. :good:
I brought the camel yellow M1B to the “Show & Tell” today. It was a fun meeting. :yahoo:
I found a suitable livery. Hopefully it will look like this by the end of the week.
I laughed when someone said NSR was overwhelmed by the response of offering 10-free Porsches to all the clubs in the world. NSR threw a chicken into a pond with 10,000 piranha and expected what? Calm water?
Let’s celebrate and go out and buy a ScaleAuto Porsche! :good:
It’s far too easy to solve the shipping issue. NSR supplies 10-free cars, your club pays the shipping. What’s the problem?
This was tainted from the start and the most of the world just figured it out. Good to know that corporate warfare is still going on. Keeps the prices a bit more competitive.
The results were that 2-clubs from North America were chosen. We were not one of them.
However. It was nice to hear everyone chime in with interest.
The seed for the idea of a “club car” has been sown. I really like Art’s Ferrari 246P with a BWMS050 motor class. Anyone else interesting in such a specific class?
Please chime in?
Ken
The winning clubs have been chosen. Very few clubs from from this continent.
Results can be found here:
https://www.facebook.com/NSRfactory/posts/4557944274232870
I don’t have a FaceFart account and cannot access the results. Can someone with a FB account please check and see if Scratch32 is on the list?
Thanks,
Ken
Some further details…
Duties of the club:
After receiving the models, the club undertakes: – Making a monobrand “Porsche 997 GT3 NSR” Championship of at least 5 races before 31/03/2022
– Sending photos and results of each race to [email protected] specifying in the mail:
Name of the club, number and date of the race
– Using only NSR parts on the models received.NSR wish you will enjoy the championship always respecting the anti-covid rules!
I looked Art’s postal code up and sent a request on his behalf. We have nothing to lose and 10-free cars to gain.
Art. If you get an email, or phone call from NSR from a guy speaking Italian? He’s not a duct cleaner. :yahoo:
It’s been done on behalf of Scratch32.
Wish us luck. We’re going to need it based on the world wide response of this offer.
Ken
The link should be filled out by a track owner. I don’t have Art’s postal code or it would have been done.
Link here.
http://www.nsrslot.it/assets/events/2021/back_to_race/iscrizione.html
Chris. Nice looking car!
This would be a great thing for S32. 10-free cars to run in our own club.
We could install urethane club tires etc.
I love to paint. This would be so cool! :good:
We can’t do it unless the members chime in without hesitation. The offer of 10-free NSR Porsches won’t last long. Art has all the statistics and proof on the S32 site.
Anyone else interested? Please speak up? This won’t work if I stand alone.
Quote:IMPORTANT UPDATE: Due to the overwhelming number of requests we are receiving, and to best ensure delivery times, memberships will end at the first 100 signed up clubs.
Anyone here interested in this?
This offer is time sensitive. This notice was just released today, and applications will only be accepted until the end of the month.
Felix,
You did well in buying those wheels. They are identical in size to what RS Slots makes in the UK.
Colin Sparks from RS Slots took over where BWA left off.
The main difference is the shine of the aluminum. They spec out to the exact same dimensions.
The only wheel RS Slots didn’t copy are the 13×9’s. Not enough call for that size.
Ken
Some progress… Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow. No clear coat.
The body is mounted to the chassis. The final assembly is next. :good:
Art just sold 6-pair of 13″ wheels.
2-pair of 5mm. 2-pair of 7mm. And 2-pair of the very rare 9mm. All were premium BWA’s.
BWA used a better quality aluminum, or a better tool/cutter, or both. They have a super shiny finish.
I was fortunate to already acquire several sets from Art over time, or I would have jumped on those rare wheels.
There are a few 3L GP cars that still need to be built. It’s hard to build one without a pair of 13×7’s and 13×9’s.
Hi Felix,
That’s a wonderful start to a very cool car.
Jim O made a Sprite.
Jim M also has one that he got from Chris Walker.
They are both on the database, and have a completely different stance. It’s always up to the builder in the end.
A word of caution. Very narrow cars don’t like wide tires on the rear, or they just roll over in the corners. Equal F/R might be a better choice. The Sprite is very narrow.
I look forward to seeing it completed. I have the same kit on the back shelf somewhere.
Ken
I love the idea of a portable track. I have a few concerns.
1) Doesn’t matter how much you prepare for rain. Everything made of wood will get soaked at some point. Being severely affected by humidity is just a matter of time.
2) MDF and hardboard weigh a ton. Transportation and set-up will be back-breaking. Especially if it gets wet.
I would like to own a smaller version that would be lightweight, easy to set up, and 100% water resistant.
Maybe make it flat? Simple? No rises, hills, and/or swoops? 3-lanes?
Like good spaghetti. I’m throwing ideas at the wall to see what sticks. An outdoor track looks like a great idea. But unexplored territory. I’m all in to see the suggestions.
We have time for some tests. Let’s take small pieces of various painted track material suggestions and let is sit out in the rain/sun before buying MDF.
Track building is jumping by leaps and bounds these days. This is an example of the latest routed plastic HO tracks. This would instantly take HO racing outdoors. I might build something like this for my HO cars down the road. I’m not saying do this for 1/32. But let this inspire what ever we build.
Ken
If this was only a historical exibition race. Why try to overtake a slower car in a tight spot? Bad time to be in a hurry.
Forever etched in video…
That’s a cool collection. We could not afford Corgi’s. I was lucky if I got a Hot Wheels car when my mom dragged me shopping as a kid. But I got a lot of them. My mom apparently shopped a lot. We all started somewhere.
I did however get one special Corgi car for Christmas. The Batmobile. Push a button, and a little round blade popped out of the nose to cut through ice. Load funny orange bullets into the three cannons at the back, and fire them all over the room. Then roll the car across the floor and watch a little orange plastic flame wobble in and out of the jet engine in the back. Those were the days… 🙂
I think the bullets went down the heat registers, and may still be there to this day. In a little house in Montreal. Oops. :whistle:
I like the idea. Anyone with a nice finished garage and proper lighting could easily move the car outside and set up a track for an evening.
This company offers a modular design that can be put together different ways.
I would imagine the sections could be made from routed 4 x 4 plastic sheets to prevent the elements from affecting it.
https://www.mrslotcar.com/mr-trax
Very interesting site with quick fold-out designs too.
I can bring a 10′ x 10′ sun shade to help with the elements. It goes up and tears down in a few minutes.
I also have a 4′ x 8′ trailer that can carry 1-ton of slot car track. And a few slot cars.
Are we going totally off the grid and using a car battery for power? No shortage of amps. Might burn out a few cars.
Seems we’re getting closer and closer to bringing a tent, sleeping bag, and camping out with the frogs in the pond. :good:
As time goes by. New cars become old cars. I’m always hunting for 1/32 static kits. I even grab the modern ones because one day they won’t be considered modern anymore. These were about $10 each. One day we’ll get there.
They sit on a shelf until we decide to race these. Another version of low powered street racers?
I broke a blade trying to clean the oven fan and make-shift paint booth in the basement. Oops. No more paint booth. The fan blades are a mere $8 when the stores open again. Inspired by everyone making new paint booths. I decided now is the best time to clean the oven before it goes too far. The wall paper behind the oven is toast. But the ugly wall paper was toast before I started painting.
The most important part is the fan itself. It needs to move a lot of air. It seems that this one will do (140 cfm?). A few boards were added to fit into the window.
Choosing a spot was easy since one of the basement windows is just left of the oven. It was isolated from the walls and countertop with foam and a wood board. White plastic garbage bags were taped up on the walls to make the most of the lighting and protect the walls. The wall paper is old and needs replacing under the protection. Maybe when I move out.
The can spinning device on the right is ready to go.
The fan fits the window perfectly.
Having two lights makes a big difference. I can see! :yahoo:
A few empty Hot Wheels boxes are the perfect height stand for the small light. An egg timer sits beside it waiting to give 1-minute increments between coats of paint.
Ready to start painting. All the fumes go out the high volume fan. Flammable fumes don’t pass through the motor.
What’s that can of candy lime green paint doing beside that McLaren M1B? Naaa… :whistle:
It takes a few seconds to slide the window open to take the fan out. Then close and lock the window.
The only real expense was the fan from a garage sale ($20?). The rest of the stuff was household junk from the garage.
Chris. Thank you very kindly for noticing that I skipped over that question. Drew and I just got off the phone about the topic of body posts so I responded to his verbal question. Good advice.
Hi Drew,
There’s a small tutorial called “How to install body posts” in the KRZ chassis area. I humbly thank Art for creating that section.
In short. You are correct. A good dab of epoxy in the body where the posts will sit. A small dab on both posts just before laying the body on the chassis. The body goes on the chassis so the epoxy pools to the post. Here are some examples.
I tend to lose brakes beyond 120-grams. Probably stick like glue in the corners.
I can’t wait to see it run. :yahoo:
There are many ways to assemble a chassis. This way works well when using an aluminum chassis.
The first step is to remove the original body posts.
Axle spacers help keep wheels in line with the chassis. And the chassis in line with the body. It’s good to have a variety of sizes available.
Install all four bearings (or bushings) with the flange on the outside of the chassis for the purpose of mounting the body posts. (The rear bearings are later removed and reinstalled on the inside of the chassis at the time of final assembly)
Spacers are installed to take up all the end play. The tires are locked into the body. The body and chassis can’t possibly be missaligned unless the body or tires are off. Always use the largest spacers, and the least number of spacers to prevent a possible spring/spacer effect.
Laying the chassis and body on the tech block shows that the body sits far too low. The body posts are measured, sanded down by hand, and tested several times until the preferred body height is reached.
So now the body sits at almost the right height. It will move up 1mm from where it is once the steel and urethane washers are added.
However, the body rocks back and forth on the posts. Precise spacers are made up from 3-cleaned, new razor blades. They straddle the rocker panels on both sides and provide a very even surface for the body to sit flat to the tech block. Now the body is as flat to the chassis, as the rocker panels can provide.
Raising the body created end play between the tires and body. I will need to go back and add axle spacers on all 4-corners to take up the play.
Once the axle spacers are installed and the body sits snug and flat. The body needs to be scratched up where the epoxy/body posts will sit. Mix the epoxy. Apply it to the body, then a small dab on the posts. Sit the body on the chassis making sure the wheels/tires don’t sit too far forward or back in the wheel wells.
Install the steel and urethane washers. Then remove the extra axle spacers as needed until the tires no longer rub on the body while flexing the body float.
The next step will be installing the motor, cutting axles to size, and installing the drive gears.
He’s had 2-accidents in 50-years of professional driving. I think he’s doing great for his age.
It looks as if he took the wheelie a bit too far for camera’s sake and and simply ran out of space to make the turn around. Drag-race cars don’t corner well at all.
I was going to say we’ll all find out shortly. But then realized, I’m not driving. 😉
Jim.
I gladly admit that I am very excited and hopeful about this idea for the future. I went through every page and saw a gaggle of Carrera Panamericana potentials. Plus a bus-load of rare “gotta haves” like the Alfa Stradale.
Thanks for posting this site. These look great. They feed the dream. :good:
It would be kind of funny to see the Chevy Chevette duke it out with a Russian Lada. Throw a Pinto with flames painted on the side into the mix. :yahoo:
Hi Jim,
Thank you very much for the link. It’s very cool.
The future sure looks bright with all the 3D printers making leaps and bounds. One day we’ll print just about everything.
JonnyRocket has the latest 3D printer. He’s already brought over an Aston DB2 printed body and we test painted it. The resolution is not very good. It’s still at the point where bodies have visible print lines.
This would be my first choice from the 123-pages I just went through. :wacko:
The Alfa Romeo Stradale is a cool little car.
You can already see the print lines on the 3D drawing when you expand the view. The best printer in the world will only give you the resolution on the file.
Then there’s the glass. It’s a great technology. But needs a lot of debugging.
Sharp looking car!
I didn’t have time to respond.
Good luck making Linda. You may need to run to the store to get more resin. She was a bit top heavy if I remember correctly. 🙂
Hi Bill. Extra run-off space won’t hurt anything since it’s already there. I could use the walking exercise. I’m thinking three 12′ foot lengths of routed track that gets laid down once every month or two. The idea has merit.
Gary. The description for the gassers says they are expected to sit up high.
Bill. I have a 35-foot straight line in my basement. It’s only 20.6 feet for 1/32 – 1/8th mile drag racing. That leaves 14-feet for dynamic braking, and a feather/pillow cushion stop. It would not take much for me to make a drag strip. A timing system is already available. We would be one of the first clubs to have BWMS050 drag-racing.
Chris. Thank you very kindly for the detailed explanation. That’s also a very slick looking chassis with the drop-arm. :good:
I dream of building a “wheelie” car one day with the drop-arm idea. That might a be cool idea to add to our latest gasser class? :whistle:
Bill. Yours will be first. My front grills are stuck in Buffalo since the first lockdown. They won’t be here for a long while yet.
Chris. I like your brass side plates that sit level with the base of the strange alloy chassis material. The chassis is made of… Unobtainium?
The aluminum chassis looks as if it started out as flat sheets. Then the interlocking channels got stamped into shape? Just asking for the sake of knowledge. I’ve never seen one up close. Thank you very kindly.
Thank you very kindly Bill. Now I know where this body mold came from.
My Barracuda will eventually be a slow class SCCA racer. Your gasser will always be the original. :good:
Gary,
Please post links for items DArt Hobbies doesn’t offer. Art likes to see links added for club members and has expressed this wish. I’m quite sure he uses them too. :good:
I created a thread a while back titled something like “Super Macro as a learning and building tool”. It can sure be an eye opener. One of the staff at Wheels & Wings once said “You can’t do the work if you can’t see the work”. I went out and bought 2-more workbench lights and better reading glasses. My building skills improved immediately. 🙂
Gary,
That’s a great looking HotRod! :good:
I look forward to going head to head when the light turns green. :yahoo:
Note to Drew.
I’ve always wanted a Ferrari Dino. Too bad it’s not a 1/32.
I took your 50+ year old Dino apart. It was seized from sitting. Cleaned it. Re-assembled it. Installed new rear tires. What used to be dead, now runs great!
It’s funny the things we’re tinkering with during the recent lockdown.
The Honda S600 finally came back in stock at HobbyLink Japan. The very first one went to a friend as a gift. I look forward to seeing it on the track.
The real 1:1 Honda S600 was double chain drive to the rear wheels. You don’t see that very often.
HobbyLink Japan just restocked their shelves. Luis and I just ordered 6-kits together that had not been in stock for a long time. My Honda S600 is in transit. :yahoo:
Hi Bill,
The only thing anyone knows about this new class is what is written on the schedule. Regular Hot Rod rules apply, with the exception of wheels/tires.
It would be interesting to see gassers turn corners. Everyone would really have to slow down, or fall over in slow motion. If the inside cars falls over? It will surely have a domino effect.
