Scratch built models in any scale are showcased here. Model details and build information are a must. Search for: searching... This forum has 170 topics, 1,465 replies, and was last updated 2 weeks ago by Ken. Viewing 70 topics - 101 through 170 (of 170 total) ← 1 2 Topic Voices Replies Last Post DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts. Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair. Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes. Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires. Started by: DB 5 7 3 years ago Arthur Airfix 1933 MG K3 Magnette Hi Gents: I have been interested in this car for its appearance and its history. I’ve had the Airfix kit in my eBay shopping cart for a while, but have decided that I can’t afford it. I’m posting it here in case someone else may be interested in it. It’s the Airfix 8204, 1933 MG K3 Magnette. It is listed at $35 usd, but it’s shipped through eBay’s ‘Global Shipping Program’. This redirects the package from the seller, to a third party facility in Erlanger, KY (often in the opposite direction to the purchaser’s destination), apparently re-packages it then ships it to the purchaser. They also tack on an import charge ‘to cover duties’. In fact, model kits, diecast models, slotcars are all categorized as toys by the Canada Border Services Agency and do not require duties or excise fees, (though they can trigger GST, usually collected by Canada Post). There have also been many complaints from sellers and buyers regarding poor handling, damaged and missing packages at the Erlanger facility. It’s basically another scheme to allow eBay to skim off more money from the purchaser. I have always refused, on principle, to buy anything shipped through their GSP. It looks like a nice kit for our pre-war series, but I don’t know the quality. I have found some of the Airfix kits made in England to be excellent, whereas some others have been terrible in terms of moulding and casting. (This one is made in Texas by USAirfix, and is the 1980 re-box edition.) It is listed at $35 usd (C$50), plus $10.50 ship to Canada, but when you go to buy it, there is an additional $10.50 that shows up as ‘import fees’. That brings the total to $56 usd, or C$82 with the added PayPal exchange surcharge. That’s more than twice my limit for a 32’nd scale model kit. However, someone else in the group may have a higher cost threshold, or may have a US shipping address set up through their business, or through a relative. But even with that, it may still be overpriced. (I’ll still buy one if I can find a fair price.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/USAirfix-Kit-8204-K3-Magnette-MG-1-32-Scale-USAirfix-Plastic-Model-SEALED-NIB/324101968737 Started by: Felix 4 4 3 years ago Felix Jag XK120 Carrera Panamericana This build was inspired by DB's white XK120. He also gave me the body. Thanks Dave! I was looking to build another Carrera Panamericana car. I found a gentleman by the name of Frank Hern that drove an XK120 in the 1952 race. He did not finish due to an accident. It's my least favorite colour. But "British Racing Green" is extemely accurate for the times of the Carrera Panamericana. :wacko: I love the spats! D'Art blue dot tires on old CB wheels. Use what you got! Started by: Ken 4 13 3 years ago Felix 1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment. Started by: Ken 5 20 3 years ago Ken Cadillac, Cadillac, Cadillac Eldorado Well I started work on the '57 Caddy Brougham. Ken's comparison pic with his Nascar reminded me that I had a little used scratch chassis under my Petty Plymouth so I thought I could probably re-purpose the chassis to fit under the Caddy. Wheelbase needs a bit of a stretch but fortunately I can add an additional axle tube in front of the existing tube so I can convert the chassis back and forth if needed. Cheers! Bill Started by: f1nutz 5 14 3 years ago Arthur HSV This is my last build, I think it does not qualify for any of our classes but I learn and enjoy working on it. Started by: Luis Meza 4 5 4 years ago f1nutz Hockey Stick Chassis A fellow racer just sent a note showing a new chassis he built .... out of a hockey stick! No details on how he cut it, but here are some pictures. Great Idea! Started by: JohnnySlots 2 1 4 years ago f1nutz Cooper Ford T61 With nothing on the workbench. Time to get started on something new specifically for the 1960-1965 SCCA series. I purchased this body kit from Professor Motor and somehow managed to get most of it completed a little at a time between all the other cars I've built. The last thing to do was to make a chassis. Not what I would call the right order to do things, but it is what it is. Making the chassis first would avoid scratching the paint. But that would take patience. Whatever that is... A BWNC1 was supposed to go in this car at first. Then I ran into some clearance problems with the larger motor. A BWMS050 should hopefully do the job. I know what I'm doing over the holidays... Assembly. I would like to wish the entire group at S32/R32 a very Merry Christmas! Ken Started by: Ken 3 8 4 years ago Ken Ferrari 158 This is the Dart kit Ferrari 158. This particular model is of the winning car as driven in the 1964 Italian GP by John Surtees; #2. JS was also the winner of the F1 Championship in 1964. The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and some brass. Bearings were used in the rear, a square brass tube was used to support the front axel. Silver foil packaging material from a pharmaceutical product was used to cover the top of the front axel and cut in the shape of the front assembly. The same foil was used to create the floor in the cockpit. This model is built as a 1.5L GP and is powered by a BWA slim motor, geared 10 pinion by 23 offset crown. A single brass screw is used to secure the body to the chassis. The body fits snugly in place with the rear assembly around the motor preventing any movement in the rear. A black twist tie was used to hold up the bottom of the motor between the two rear exhaust pipes-glued in place to bottom of motor and exhaust pipes. Two polished aluminium extension pipes were glued to the ends of the exhaust pipes that came with the kit. The motor that came with the kit was modified to fit together and two piano wires were inserted into drilled holes and glued into both sides of the motor to hold it in place. The other ends of the piano wire were soldered onto the rear upright assembly. The motor is attached to the chassis, the body floats freely above it but there is virtually no movement as the body is held firmly by the single screw up front and the piano wire at the rear which connects to the rear upright assembly. After applying the decals, I brushed on a coat of future to seal the decals and give the car a glossy finish. One drop of windex was added to my future mix to prevent yellowing down the road. My camera and lighting could be better. This model is much more attractive in the flesh. Initial test lap results indicate that this car will be a contender. I think there is room for improvement. Thanks for looking. Started by: JMSracer 4 6 4 years ago Ken Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed... The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers! Started by: Arthur 6 6 4 years ago Luis Meza Shadow DN1 This build is of the Dart Shadow DN1 - 1973 GP The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and brass. Added rear suspension detail George Follmer is behind the wheel in this model Rear view with suspension. Should have cleaned the tire dust from running test laps. Started by: JMSracer 2 2 4 years ago JMSracer Indianapolis Brabham Ford I picked up this kit at last years show, it was sitting in a box calling to be built. There's a time and a place for everything..., decided to give it a go. This model ran in the 1960's, so it has been built using the 3L GP spec's. I'll be adding a steering wheel and dashboard. A simple brass piano wire chassis.. will likely add front suspension to this model. A very simple build. Started by: JMSracer 2 2 4 years ago JMSracer Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body. The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts. Started by: f1nutz 5 13 4 years ago Ken 1951 Indy Kurtis Offy Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process on one using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis. For the rear maybe the same with the chassis linked in to the brass tubing but need to think that through. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe. Started by: DB 4 14 4 years ago Ken 66 Shelby Mustang I was asked to build a car for a friend. What better way to pass the time. The body is a Monogram GT-350. I have the exact same car in white. It was a fun way to test the accuracy of the original drawing. The request was "Keep it low, but keep it level". Thanks for looking Started by: Ken 2 3 4 years ago Ken 59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop. Started by: Ken 4 12 4 years ago Ken Model Scriber This is the picture of the scriber that I used for the Auto Union Started by: Luis Meza 3 3 4 years ago Luis Meza Porsche 914 Targa Florio Hello Guys, I just finished my Porsche 914, I made a lots of mistakes trying to use masking for the two colors and it shows all the corrections I had to make and I still need to find some stickers to match the livery and maybe it will help me hide some of the mistakes Started by: Luis Meza 2 2 4 years ago Luis Meza Auto Union Type C D’Arts Started by: Luis Meza 4 8 4 years ago Arthur Alfa Romeo 8C Started by: Luis Meza 5 6 4 years ago Arthur Ferrari 1512 Started by: Luis Meza 5 6 4 years ago Arthur Porsche 914 I just finished my Porsche 914, I made many mistakes trying to use two colors and had a hard time covering them, I need to find more decals to finish the correct livery and help me hide some of the imperfections. Started by: Luis Meza 3 3 4 years ago Arthur 1951 INDIANAPOLIS KURTIS OFFY Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis just epoxied in place. I am undecided whether to use wire or a brass plate for the chassis so that needs more thought. On the body I am using Cheetah manifold headers, have expanded the carburetor air intakes and will use chrome carbs from another model and will add a chrome fuel cap – holes all drilled. Wheels are from RSSlots and are spare from my Bugatti build. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe. Started by: DB 2 1 4 years ago Arthur 32 Ford Hot Rods without fenders is unexplored territory for me. No one in the group has a 1932 Ford. The kit has many parts. Only a few will end up being used. This is just the body and front grill from the kit. I can't hide the front part of the chassis. I might as well figure out a way to make it part of the Hod Rod. Started by: Ken 3 15 4 years ago Ken 1951 INDIANAPOLIS KURTIS OFFY Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis just epoxied in place. I am undecided whether to use wire or a brass plate for the chassis so that needs more thought. On the body I am using Cheetah manifold headers, have expanded the carburetor air intakes and will use chrome carbs from another model and will add a chrome fuel cap – holes all drilled. Wheels are from RSSlots and are spare from my Bugatti build. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe. Started by: DB 2 3 4 years ago Ken Auto Union Type C D’Arts Started by: Luis Meza 1 0 4 years ago Luis Meza D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+. Started by: Ken 4 11 4 years ago Ken McLaren M20 I thought I had built cars for every class. Turns out my CanAm Lola Mk2 is from Art's collection. I have yet to build a CanAm car myself. There is a Carrera McLaren M20 collecting dust on a shelf that could use a serious upgrade. The livery is from 1974. Driver: Helmut Kelleners The original plastic chassis did not survive the bandsaw for some strange reason. The old parts go into a junk box. The side body-panels are much lighter now. Each side panel is made up of three parts. One screw on each side keeps the assemblies secure. The body is ready for a new scratch chassis. The first step is to re-read the rules for CanAm in order to choose the right wheels, tires, etc... Started by: Ken 2 6 4 years ago Ken 1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32 (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34 Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires. Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit: Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements. It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.) Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix. Started by: Felix 5 20 4 years ago Ken D’Art Matra MS10 Most if not all Matra's were blue. This Matra found a can of Tamiya "camel yellow" and got friendly with it. The engine detail is Tamiya "semi-gloss black". The components at the rear have been painted with Tamiya "gloss aluminum". I still need to detail the interior, driver, engine and transmission parts. The body components snap into place nicely. Started by: Ken 2 7 4 years ago Ken D’Art Shadow DN1 With the Ringwood around the corner. I have race classes to fill. I painted this lovely body last July. Time to get the chassis started. With the tires glued and trued. I can start to map out the chassis. Anyone need chassis plans for a DN1? :mail: The driver and helmet were easy enough to complete. Two-part helmet and visor are a nice touch. Chassis is ready for drilling and cutting. :good: Started by: Ken 2 6 4 years ago Ken 1936 Auto Union Type C Hopefully this will get finished in time for the next race. This car was painted at the last paint workshop. Then stripped and repainted. Second time was the charm. Quite the challenge to fit an aluminum chassis under this body. Started by: Ken 2 8 4 years ago Ken Chaparral 2D If I could have a race car on the street. This would be it. Nothing nicer looking to me than a Chaparral 2D. I was fortunate enough to find an old beat up and badly sun-baked Strombecker body at the last Group25 model show/swap meet. First thing to do is to disassemble the parts. The body is in rough shape. Full of scratches, and lots of faded plastic. The underside shows how badly discoloured the body is. Choosing a colour was easy. Out of all my cars so far, Tamiya Candy Lime Green is still the favorite. I'll let other club members fight over the white cars, and main liveries. I prefer to be different. Now to choose a motor, gear ratio, and wheels/tires. I hope to eventually build 3 of these Chaparrals. Two more are on order with D'Art Hobbies. Those will be way easier to acquire. Thank you kindly Art. Started by: Ken 2 10 4 years ago Ken ZL1 Corvette Stingray The second Anatoly Arutunoff Corvette is well under way. Like the first. This car is built in honour of the man, and his efforts to enter the Targa Florio in 1971. The first Vette has a Scalex motor in line with the 327 that should have entered the race in 1970. This one is more in line with Anatoly's 1971 - 427 Vette in that it has a Fox-10 for open class racing. I hope it will be completed by this week. I learn something with each build. I left nothing on the table with respect to how close the body sits on the chassis on this one. Any lower and the tires touch the inside of the fenders. Perfect! :good: I tried to make this a sidewinder but the motor hits the bearing flange before the gears mesh properly. You can see where I shaved the aluminum past the bearing flange. I even tried to angle it, but there is not enough room to work with in this size aluminum tubing. By the time the gears mesh, the motor is well into the tire area. Back to inline we go. *mumble* :scratch: Ken Started by: Ken 3 14 4 years ago Ken Morris Mini Cooper I found a Morris Mini Cooper in the 1972 Targa Florio. I also found an appropriate car to get this project off to a good start. As you can see by the photo on the right, the car is "Plum Crazy Purple" in colour. That should be a cool addition to the other liveries. The drivers for car #51 were Matteo Sgarlata and Joe Anastasi. Class = S1.6. Sponsored by = STP. I need to open the wheel openings in the fenders to fit the 13"-inch wheels/tires. That will give me an opportunity to make those crazy looking fenders. The motor is a tight fit with the stock interior. I will need to get very creative with this little car if I want to lower it with bigger wheels, and still keep an interior with a driver. Fun looking car. It was a nice surprise to find out it has working head lights and tail lights. Since this build is not about speed. I'm going to try and keep them. Look out green Giliberti cause a purple Mini will be on the hunt! All in good fun of course. Started by: Ken 4 15 4 years ago Ken D'Art Porsche 550 Spyder I painted this car last July. The body should be safe to handle by now. Someone suggested I expand my build threads so others can learn how to duplicate my mistakes. Careful what you wish for. I measured the wheelbase and mapped out the chassis. Then I installed axle spacers on all 4-corners to help figure out the track width as well as center the chassis to the body when I glue in the body posts. I will remove the rear axle spacers after cutting the axles to length on final assembly. The front axle spacers remain in place to keep the independent wheels centered. 5mm spacing per corner was just right for this combination of parts. The chassis lays down nicely in the body. The tires are touching the inside of the top of the fenders at this point. But avoid the sides of the fenders. The build is self-slamming. I used to scratch my head on how to figure out the length of the posts. Toothpicks are a handy measuring device. I'm looking forward to seeing this car run. This will be the lowest car I've ever built. If this car runs half as good as the RS61? It will be a blast to drive! :yahoo: Started by: Ken 3 9 4 years ago Ken 1949 Ford Tudor in red With the Carrera Panamericana around the corner. It's time to give Fred and his blue Tudor a bit of a break. Emilio Portez Medina and Armando Rodrigues Morado, both from Mexico, are busy preparing a red 1949 Ford Tudor #119 for the next race (1950). Emilio's red Tudor has a BWNC1. Fred's blue Tudor has a BWMS050. Started by: Ken 3 7 4 years ago Ken Luis's Ferrari 312P Berlinetta Luis asked me to post these pictures until he can get the bugs out of his PC. Nice start to the build Luis. I can't wait to see it run! Started by: Ken 3 5 4 years ago Arthur 65 Mustang 2+2 My very first thread was February 2018. Before I knew how to scratch-build, I posted a pic of an Eldon Shelby GT350 that I put together using an old Hornsby plastic chassis. It ran like... an old Hornsby plastic chassis. What a surprise. You only get what you invest. It was unrealistic to hope for more. It was time to re-visit the old Mustang idea. But with a fresh start. This is an AMT static kit I painted at the cottage. This chassis was going to hang out more than any other on this car forcing me to re-invent the back section. It's not perfect. But it's an improvement. Started by: Ken 3 8 4 years ago Ken Maserati 250F (Scalex body) There is a Shelby #5 car in the database already. So in an attempt to be different, I grabbed a can of Tamiya Coral Blue not knowing how the car would look. Without the details, it looks a bit scary. Over the top blue. The rest of the car made all the difference. Art's suggestion of white roundels really made the numbers and colour pop. Started by: Ken 3 4 4 years ago Ken Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready. Started by: Ken 5 10 4 years ago Ken D'Art Lotus 30 My enthusiasm to build this kit was off the charts. The real Lotus 30 was a terrible car with respect to handling. This is an opportunity to hopefully make it better on a much smaller scale. The real car had chassis flex issues. This chassis does not have those same problems. I had to shorten the top of the front bearing supports because the body sits very low. You can see the 180 grit sanding marks on the inside of the chassis so the epoxy will adhere to the aluminum and motor a bit better. The chassis started out as an inline S-can. That was a huge mistake on such a low car. I should have planned it out better. I hope I never make that mistake again. I had to make a big hole in the body to fit the motor. The colour is Tamiya "Candy Lime Green". Upon assembling the body to the chassis I realized this was indeed a huge mistake. My lack of experience is getting the better of me. Time to take it apart and try something else. I was thinking that I may have already ruined the body. :negative: Started by: Ken 3 5 4 years ago Arthur Larry's Opel GT Hello fellow racers. Larry has been having some ipad troubles posting pics to start his Opel GT build thread. I offered to get the ball rolling for his first build. He built it for, and raced it at the last Targa Florio. The following are quotes from Larry. So to start I researched as many angles of the car as I could. I sanded down the fender well lip so the fender was flatter so my flare would sit flatter at the back to the body when glued. I stuck painters tape to the fenders and traced where the door jam was, where the front bumper came around the side and the outline of the fender itself. Next I glued three pieces of styrene together for each fender. Stuck the tape to the blank and cut it out. Didn’t cut out the wheel opening yet to keep it stable. Sanding and body putty, lastly I cut out the wheel opening to fit the wheels. And then this happened! Way to go Larry! (Those were Ken's words) Please direct your questions and positive comments to Larry for his fine build. :good: Thank you. Started by: Ken 3 5 4 years ago Anonymous D'Art Ferrari 312P The first time I laid eyes on Art's Ferrari 312P my brain said "I want that!". Based on using 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I started to rough out a chassis for bearings. Wasn't sure how to attach the body. Started by: Ken 4 31 4 years ago Ken Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill Started by: f1nutz 6 10 5 years ago f1nutz 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up This low cost ARII Owner's Club model kit found its way to my hobby bench and was adapted/upgraded into a 'low power' track utility vehicle for The Ring. Background on the box reads: Honda was established in 1948, and since then, it kept introducing a lot of famous motor bikes. The model "Honda T360" was the first car that Honda produced. It was called "Sport Truck" rather than "Light Truck". It was mounted with a 354 cc, 4-carb HOHC engine, and could make the maximum 30 hp. Two months later, "Honda Sport 500" was marketed. It is tiny (but tall): body measures approx. 92mm x 40mm; front and rear track of 39mm; wheelbase of approx. 63mm with guide post set approx. 66mm from rear axle; and weighs approx. 61.2mm (complete). I kept it cheap by using a DArt guide, BWMS050 motor, 8T BWA pinion, scavenged Scalextric 28T crown gear, piano wire for axles and 1/8" brass tubing in place of bushings. In its finished form it is smooth and quiet but for my taste would still benefit with a 10T pinion - which it may get yet - time will tell... Since pictures are 'worth a 1000 words' here are some pictures of this build. You will note I first planned to use styrene clamps to fix the rear of the body to the rear axle sleeves but bailed on that plan for a more reliable method. A rear frame made from piano wire covered by tissue paper soaked in a solution of H2O and white glue (as suggested by f1nutz) plus DArt fog lamps were later added to this model. Several parts were extensively modified as the pictures indicate. I used navy blue tent repair tape to cover the sides of exposed motor and some scrap patio umbrella fabric (painted with a dark wash) courtesy of Porsche911 as mud flaps to cover the crown gear. [foogallery id="10642"] It is fun building something that isn't meant to race... Cheers! Started by: Arthur 4 6 5 years ago f1nutz 1969 CANAM Piper Ferrari 612 (No. 43) This period fantasy livery uses a DArt body kit and will have a scratch built chassis underneath mounted using one screw/body post behind the front axle and two clips for wire uprights just behind the molded tailpipe shell detail. Who better a pilot to place in this unreliable rocket than the other Polish Prince (not Marek) - Tony Adamowicz! After applying a dark green base coat and fixing the mounting post/clips we were ready for the next step - decals. 29 of the 34 decals used were printed using my standard inkjet printer and coated with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (as I do with all of the decals I make). Regarding the five store bought decals used – three were rectangular Monogram white blank number plates with a black pinstripe border and two were Pattos Ferrari badge decals – in hindsight I was disappointed with both the opacity and misaligned pin stripe on the white blank Monogram number plates (but it gives the model character) and should have just printed my own along with the Pattos Ferrari badges since I am really not a fan of their low resolution. Nevertheless the project turned out just fine. The decals will be left to dry for a few days and after some cleaning up the body will be ready for two clear coats (yet to be determined), then some detail painting and a dark wash. I haven’t decided if I want to paint or decal the spoiler orange yet… no rush… ...stay tuned! Started by: Arthur 2 5 5 years ago Ken Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else. Started by: Arthur 5 15 5 years ago Arthur Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use. Started by: Arthur 3 2 5 years ago Ken Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken Started by: Ken 4 8 5 years ago Ken Airfix MGB Sports model I bought this kit at the Torcan model show. The kit dates back to 1967. Nice to find an old gem like this. Worth doing the build. I hope to have it finished by the weekend and race it at the Dale in just under 2-weeks. SP-slow class. Ken Started by: Ken 3 9 5 years ago Ken C3 Corvette I found this kit a while back. The body is reasonable. I like the car. I was the kid on the bike in the background when this car was new in 69. Started by: Ken 6 23 5 years ago Ken Bugatti Type 59 I thought I would join in on the pre-war builds. Anyone doing a 1934 Bugatti Type 59? I spied a kit, so before I buy I wanted to check with the group. Thanks Dave Dave Started by: DB 5 22 5 years ago f1nutz Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead. :good: The assembly begins... Ken Started by: Ken 4 6 5 years ago Ken 63 Split window Corvette Stingray We had a workshop recently where we drilled a chassis for roller bearings and a guide. The chassis fits a 63 split window coupe kit made by AMT. Started by: Ken 4 19 5 years ago Ken Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken Started by: Ken 4 17 5 years ago Ken Race Transporter Reference Drawings I wasn't sure where to post this so please feel free to move this thread. I was recently pointed to a thread on Slotforum that contains scale plans by Mike Sells for many vintage race transporters. Anyone feeling ambitious and need a winter project? https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182130&hl=%2Btransporter+%2Bplan Cheers Bill Started by: f1nutz 3 4 5 years ago Arthur An ALLARD – KURTIS SPECIAL? PANAMERICANA ? An ALLARD - KURTIS SPECIAL - PANAMERICANA ? Fantasy . Hi guy's, I'm well new here and came across some nice coloured photo's of A K Miller's "Iron Horse" and also noticed in my book, that Tony Bettenhausen had run a Kurtis - Chrysler in the 1953 La Carrera. Now I don't know of any 1/32 kit's for the above BUT I do know George Turner Model's produces a very nice Allard J 2, that I fancy getting. (Big smile). So a few pic's off Google and maybe an up-date of a build in 12 month's time. The GTM in it's wooden 'buck' format. The Resin model, with co-driver. The Inspiration. A Kurtis - Lincoln 1954 Although there are quite a few photo's of Tony Bettenhausen's Kurtis - Chrysler # 21 on Google, I was unable to 'lift' any. Started by: Anonymous 3 6 5 years ago Arthur Ferrari 750 Monza Scaglietti Here is an extensively modified Ferrari 290MM body kit which was turned into a 750 Monza as raced by Fon Portago in the final edition of La Carrera Panamericana. A single plastic exhaust (with exposed muffler) is used on the left hand side - and the exposed tail pipe is aluminium tube attached to the chassis. And in an effort to keep the look of this model period any temptation to lower or slam the body was snuffed - there is room above the motor to lower the body - but that would just not look right. This model in its current configuration utilizes an 18k Ninco large can motor for competition in the SP+ class. The added RPM (and torque) offset its overall weight (115g) to make this model perform and handle exceptionally well. "Look Ma - No Screws!" The body is attached to the chassis using one of my favourite methods - hinged side pods glued to balsa wood (epoxy) - using piano wire sleeved with brass tube inside brass tube on either side... The beauty is that all you need to do to remove the body is pull out the flexible wire tabs from brass tubes attached to the rear bushing uprights... no screws to fiddle with, work loose or lose on track... Just a simple wire/brass chassis with your basic .032" brass tongue front end and flat brass motor bracket to allow the motor/pinion to be swapped out. All of these parts were made using household hand tools although a trip to the garage to the drill press would have been quicker... square Parma oilite bushings were used at the rear. The angled wire braces on either side of the motor sit very tight to the motor giving the chassis added stiffness. The motor itself is angled slightly downwards towards the front of the chassis, both to lower the COG and to ensure the pinion is properly lined up with the crown gear. Round oilite bushings holding the front axle are reinforced with a 'chuck' bar soldered to each bushing and to the brass plate. The guide is a clone of the Ninco classic guide made by DArt. Crown gear is slot.it 28t, axles are professor motor, a DuBro #2 washer is soldered to the end of the front axle for independents, all four wheels are modified BWA, inserts and urethane tires are DArt - the tires are the club series tamper proof marked DArt CT0101 tire using a 1/8" white dot through the meat... which were leftovers from a past MiniGrid order. ...gearing and motor can yet be changed to increase performance - this chassis should be able to comfortably handle any motor up to 25k... and one day it might... :good: Started by: Arthur 4 3 5 years ago Anonymous Chassis acceptability Art, quick question. To finish my 356 I used a Strombecker brass chassis with some modification. So is a custom body mated to a Strombecker brass chassis eligible for scratch 32? I am thinking not but wanted to check as I thought that was dealt with on the Forum but couldn't locate it. Thanks Started by: DB 2 4 5 years ago DB Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking. Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E Thanks to Art for his great photos! Started by: f1nutz 6 8 6 years ago Joe Porsche 550 Coupe Porsche 550 Coupe - 1956 Porsche at 1956 24h Le Mans. #25 RS 550 A/4 (#550A-0104) 1498 cm (Trips / Frankenberg). Engine 1.5cc. Working on a chassis. Need to add interior as well. Started by: DB 6 14 6 years ago Arthur Porsche 356 SL It is a resin body and not a very good one (you get what you pay for). Spend almost a year trying to fix it up and still it is marginal. Decided to paint it up and decal anyway. It looks big but is under scale on length and height. Width is about 9-10 mm over scale. Porsche 356 SL – 1953 – 1488cc. 1953 Carrera PanAmericana S1.6 class. Car #199. Did not finish, over time limit. Driver - Joaquin Castillo de la Fuente. #356__2-054 Still working on the picture :wacko: Started by: DB 3 3 6 years ago DB Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good: Started by: Arthur 5 9 6 years ago Ken Ferrari 612 CANAM Ferrari 612 CANAM A few shots of the first completed DArt Ferrari 612 CANAM model. This model uses only the stock parts included with the DArt body kit - mirror, rollbar, driver's head and inkjet decals. Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer was used over Tamiya Fine Primer. The paint was polished but there is no clear coat on this one. Wax was the preferred final finish. The shell is mounted to the chassis using two centrally located posts, one immediately behind the front axle, the other infront of the motor. DArt urethane washers placed between the posts and the chassis dampen movement of the shell. The chassis was one of my first scratch built sidewinder configurations. This is a simple chassis - nothing fancy - but it is perfectly balanced. As you can see it is not polished or clear coated and so shows its age (although well I think). The centre brass section was added when the chassis was tuned for racing. If memory serves well the motor is a Fox 10 soldered directly to the chassis with 11 x 36T Slot.It pinion and spur gear. Aftermarket hard drill blank axles through brass tube at the front and oilite bushings at the rear attach BWA 15" .380 sized alloy wheels with DArt small inserts (included with the kit) and DArt urethane tires (SI0201) front and back. A vintage nylon guide was chosen for this project. This chassis/shell combination proves that you need not do anything fancy to make a rocket. The front wheels could yet be converted to independent spinners to further enhance cornering speeds - but why bother when it is at the sharp end already? Setting sail to another country hopefully this model will offer as much enjoyment for its new host/collector as it did for me. :cry: Started by: Arthur 3 4 6 years ago Arthur '55 Daihatsu This was my door prize at the December IROC meet. Decided to put it together over the holidays. I added Slotter wheels on the rear, gearing and a motor with the intention of having it run. But alas was stumped by the guide flag issue. So having it as a static model for the time being. Added a wood bed using popsicle sticks and a couple of coats of Citadel ‘Nuln Oil’ Shade. Started by: DB 3 2 6 years ago f1nutz Porsche 356 Super – 1952 La Carrera Panamericana #10 1952 Carrera Panamericana - ‘S’ class - #10 Porsche 356 Super (von Berckheim/Linge/von Hohenlohe) – DNF accident 3rd leg I forgot about this Carrera Panamericana project which I started last spring. I’ll list the parts and products used which together with a few pictures should at the least supplement my own memory down the road if anything worked particularly well (or not). In each project I try to incorporate lessons learned from my prior mistakes and from the tips of others – but old habits are hard to break. Nevertheless here is what I used and how it went together for better or worse. It was important to me to that this model had an appropriate stance and was not ‘slammed’. As always I sorted my wheels and tires before starting the chassis. Once I knew the overall diameter of the front and back wheels/tires I set up my jig to shoot for a chassis clearance of approximately 3mm which in most cases will allow for a slightly higher body position and therefore in my opinion a more suitable stance and overall look. The body was a Ninco classic Porsche 356 with the plate light, tail pipe openings, tear drop tail lamps as well as front turn signal provisions filled in using Tamiya white putty. Everything was primed and painted with Tamiya rattlers – white primer and two coats of Racing White. It isn’t clear to me from the black and white photos what the exact colour was so I did not sweat it and chose one which looked nice. The decals were all created using whatever images I could find and modify from the internet using Microsoft Photodraw and Word then custom printed using my inkjet printer and given two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (Gloss) to seal them. No clear coat was applied to this body since the paint itself already had a nice gloss finish. On closer inspection some of the areas that I filled with Tamiya putty are still distinguishable but I decided not to spend any more time on the body. The chromed pieces (ie. mirror, wipers, handles, headlamp bezels, etc.) were all stripped and repainted using Krylon Chrome then dipped in Pledge acrylic floor polish (with a drop of windex added) to seal each piece. Although sealing the chrome dulled it somewhat I opted to seal it for better protection from handling, especially the door handles and rocker trim. The headlamps were dipped in Pledge acrylic before mounting and front and rear signal/tail lights together with reflectors were positioned and fixed in place using Gorilla Glue clear epoxy – as were all of the accent pieces. The interior was the very slightly modified Ninco classic Porsche 356 interior but I used a different pilot and upgraded the steering wheel. The interior was painted but remained black with red accents/stripes on the seats and together with the single piece glass secured in place using Gorilla clear epoxy. The completed body and interior weighs in at 24.7 grams which includes a pair of brass body post inserts for 440 screws. I kept things simple and just sleeved the existing body posts using #227 Evergreen styrene tubing although I did add some bracing to the front post. For the chassis I pulled four BW15-200 series wheels which were painted at the same time as the body and mounted DArt SC0118 tires front and back (I used the slightly smaller SC0118F on the front). I opted for a sidewinder setup and decided to go old school and just use brass tubing to hold the front and rear axles. To keep things even simpler I made the Ninco NC1 motor can a part of the chassis and soldered both the front half of the chassis and the rear axle tubing directly to the can. For those concerned about the effect of heat on the motor magnets and plastic endbell it would be possible given how this chassis was constructed to remove the endbell along with the motor guts and solder only the can in place then reinsert everything but since the target motor for this class is a ‘slow’ motor which is not to be opened I left it as is. A plastic repop of the classic Ninco guide was secured using 4mm brass tube soldered to a custom made brass front plate. At the back an additional ‘U’ shaped piece of piano wire would hold both the sliding (front to back) rear body post plate which I made plus the aluminium exhaust pipes. Since this model will need some added weight in the front I fashioned three brass plates plus a couple of .032 wires and soldered them all together to create a rattle pan which can be easily installed (or removed and further tweaked for tuning) to the chassis and which is secured in place by the front body post/screw. After carefully scrubbing the steel wire and the motor with a water and Ajax mix and then sanding/polishing everything I applied/rubbed a little Brasso metal polish to everything. For improved cornering a Dubro #2 steel washer was soldered to the solid front axle thereby allowing one wheel to spin free. As for gearing a test fitting would prove that a Slot.It 6.5mm pinion would mesh adequately with an 18mm Slot.It spur gear. Although the range for this gear set yields potential ratios that are much lower than optimal that is still fine with me. Given the construction of this chassis I can use my pinion puller and press to replace the pinion without unsoldering anything. After some initial track break-in and testing I opted to drill out approximately 2g of material from the rattle pan. Overall weight of this model is now 81.3 grams. I also changed the pinion to a 13 tooth. After placing the rattle pan into the chassis I mounted the body. Before securing the body to the chassis with a pair of 440 brass screws I added a little white glue to the insert threads to help prevent the screws from backing out during a race. I also used DArt number 2 urethane washers to space the body from the chassis. Gluing them in place will save some time down the road too. [If you have sufficient clearance you can also add a urethane spacer under each screw head which will also prevent the screws from backing out.] If your body rolls too much you might need to either remove one or both of the urethane spacers or insert a stop bar. In this case there was no issue with excessive roll. Now this model is ready! :good: Started by: Arthur 3 2 6 years ago MiA Mclaren F1 build on FB This guy started with a wood block. Amazing work! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10213897476021571&set=oa.1457739204247841&type=3&theater&ifg=1 Started by: f1nutz 2 1 6 years ago Arthur Porsche 804 Grand Prix This is another class eligible (60GP) or VRAA body kit - a Porsche 804 that raced in 1962. In the usual silver livery it is a pleasant alternative to the green, red, blue and yellow entries in this class and a car that everyone should have in their 1960's Grand Prix stable. I've decided to make two versions, one using the existing original car/driver detail and another which will be modified to include enhanced details, including added cockpit/driver detail, wire roll bar & aluminium exhaust detail (mirrors, wire roll bar and exhaust pipes are included in the DArt kit). This version is utilizing the original details but for the added mirrors. This vintage representation of the 804 is quite nice despite the fact that the nose is more 'bulbous' (sp?) than the original to accommodate a guide/front axle... other slot car manufacturers have struggled with this problem too with various levels of success. As with any 1/32nd model made to perform on track compromise with the silhouette of a car is unavoidable. I chose to go with a livery of the #30 car (driven by Gurney) with the only victory for Porsche in the French GP. I exchanged the kit head (which is very nice and should be used for Bonnier (or others)) with the Gurney head from Scaley releases. The driver shoulder and arm detail along with the fan & transmission and exhaust details are not bad on the original model. Of course I am talking about the original Scaley release of this model from the 60's... The windscreen is nice too, although a touch large but for a model to be raced that is just fine... First I removed any flashing on the body and windscreen using a fine x-acto knife. The original finish of the body in this kit is good, not perfect, since the original model/material was quite rough in areas and required a tonne of work, but just a little more sanding of the kit body will remove any remaining blemishes (and should be done for any body you plan to paint). Regardless, the material is easily sanded. I also test fitted the windscreen to ensure a nice fit. I trimmed the body post and drilled a hole for the mounting screw I planned to use - I may sleeve this with a piece of styrene tubing down the road depending on the abuse this car will take. Although I would still use the original roll bar and exhaust detail that doesn't mean I can't improve it a little - so I drilled small holes into both exhaust pipes and drilled out the solid roll bar detail. I decided to leave the air intake covers alone and not hollow them out since that would take a lot of work and the probability of screwing that up was way too high. Instead I planned to cut out the 'openings' from a dark coloured tent repair nylon 'adhesive' and fix that sticker in place, as I've done on other projects. In the end the result will look just like a dark grill is covering each opening. Just be sure to cut the nylon patch adhesive using a very sharp blade (for longer narrow strips I use a box cutter blade and after positioning it flat along the edge to be cut just tap it with a hobby hammer to make a clean cut - don't waste your time cutting it by dragging your blade along a straight edge...) After washing the pieces to be painted and letting them dry I primed them all using rattle can Tamiya Fine White Primer. Then the whole body was painted with Tamiya TS-30 (Silver Leaf) and given two coats. At this point I decided to paint the nose of the windscreen silver to match the body so it was masked using Tamiya Masking Tape and sprayed as well. Standard Revell-Monogram black number decals were added using Micro Set/Sol. For the more detailed model I will airbrush the numbers instead... I finally painted a 'suggestion' of a Porsche logo on the nose... I then decided to try something different - an acrylic spray for the finish - I used a can of Krylon Crystal Clear (41303) and gave the body two heavy coats. I have to say I am very happy with the gloss/finish using this stuff since I didn't sand anything I sprayed. It did take a considerable amount of time to dry, not unlike Tamiya clear however. But patience is of course a virtue here. I hand painted the transmission & exhaust details, roll bar, driver's chest/arms/hands & steering wheel - didn't need primer - used Tamiya acrylics... some flat, some gloss depending on what I was painting. I also hand painted the driver's head and mirrors. I used Citadel Mithril Silver (it closely matches the Tamiya silver paint) on the whole mirror and a darker grey on the mirror lenses since I like the effect it creates. I dropped in some Future floor polish into each goggle lens and used a strip of a dark coloured nylon tent repair adhesive for a goggle strap. There was no need for seat belts so none were made from tent repair... After everything was finally cured I drilled two fine holes for each mirror and tested for fit. I glued the driver's head into place with Amazing GOOP (clear). I glued the windscreen into place using Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy. Rather than running a thin bead of epoxy along the bottom of the windscreen I simply applied the epoxy into each of the four mounting pin holes using a toothpick. This ensured a nice clean bond. As for the mirrors, since they were being mounted into the body and not the windscreen I opted to use a pin to apply a tiny amount of Gorilla Super Glue into each hole before pressing each mirror into place. I wasn't worried about fogging so Super Glue was fine to use... The front edge of the windscreen that was painted silver in my opinion needed something else to clean up the look where it touched the body (the unpainted sides gave a nice clean edge and didn't need anything else). Since this is something that is easy to botch up if you try painting directly, I opted to brush on the same silver paint I used on the mirrors onto a very thin strip of nylon tent repair adhesive. I trimmed to fit and then applied along the leading edge of the windscreen that was painted silver too. I was tempted to add more detail to this car but decided against doing so. In my opinion it looks fine as it is. The complete painted body as is weighs in at 11.2 grams. A fun project - time to get to work on the chassis now... Started by: Arthur 4 4 7 years ago Arthur VW Track Maintenance Van Not a scratch built model but the body of this VW White/Blue Camper Van was modified into a Track Maintenance vehicle enough so to warrant sharing in the forum. The original Scaley VW Van was previously modified to enhance performance by replacing the tires, wheels, axles, motor, pinion and braid. I used a BWA 9 tooth pinion on a BWMS050 motor with the original crown gear fixed to a new rear axle spinning through bearings. Wheels front and back were BW13-200-093-375 with 375LOT4WOB inserts capped with DART half moons. RM0201 tires finished the look. 7 grams of weight were added to the front of the plastic chassis and body float created for better handling. But the white/royal blue camper was of no use, so it sat on the shelf until now. This past Saturday we ran the IPS proxy and later that afternoon I decided to get off couch and complete this project. If you watched the Blue Jay game Saturday afternoon then you had enough time to do what I did below to turn this pleasure camper into a daily track workhorse. I removed the body from the chassis and disassembled the entire body and its components. The front and rear bumpers are separate pieces so they came off when the body was removed. Using dishwashing liquid I washed the pieces that were going to get sprayed: front and rear bumpers, main body, roof, split window front windscreen area and rear windows. I wanted to use Tamiya liquid surface grey primer mixed with a little Tamiya metallic blue (X-13) and diluted with paint thinner for the air brush. This gives the otherwise grey primer a light blue tint with a very faint metallic fleck - a theme to be carried over to other track vehicles in the future. I also wanted to glaze all of the rear windows using Tamiya TS-80, a flat clear spray on both the inside and outside of the windows to keep away any shine and make them almost opaque. After airbrushing the bumpers and entire body pieces everything dried for a half hour or so. I brushed on Tamiya XF-53, neutral grey, on the front and rear seats but left the dashboard, doors and floor the same colour as the body. The dashboard, steering wheel and 'stiff' driver were left as is since I didn't want to make this a whole day project. While the body pieces were drying I soldered together a working trailer hitch which I fixed to the rear of the plastic chassis. This was just buffed and not painted. I plan to make several trailers including a victory podium trailer... stay tuned for them... but that's for a NASCAR afternoon... I also hand painted the front split window edging with the same colour and then highlighted the window detail with some silver paint. This part was a pain in the ass and took nearly an inning. I also highlighted hinges and door handles with the same silver paint (the pictures do not capture this adequately). Since these areas are so fine if you do get some paint bleeding onto the window portion you can simply take a toothpick and rub away the paint using the pointed end of the toothpick after the paint has dried... this trick doesn't work on any painted surface though. After the paint was dry I made two pylon holders for each of the rear quarters of the body using .032 wire. These I didn't paint and simply drilled mounting holes and glued them into place. DArt Urethane Pylons were pushed onto these wires to complete each side. I then soldered together a small roof fence using .032 wire and buffed it. Again, I wasn't going to paint this either. This took another inning. I drilled oversized holes for the six posts. Finally it was time to reassemble and glue everything else together. Loose tires were added to the roof tray but not glued in place. The tray is also large enough to accommodate three straw bales... I contemplated adding graphics or lettering in white to the body but in the end opted not to, a choice I am glad I stuck with. I can always do so later on if I change my mind. I also have yet to add a rack with shovels and brooms to this van but there's always tomorrow... Started by: Arthur 4 4 7 years ago Anonymous Viewing 70 topics - 101 through 170 (of 170 total) ← 1 2 You must be logged in to create new topics. Log In Username: Password: Keep me signed in Type in the text displayed above Log In Thank You for Reserving Your Space! Thank you for successfully reserving your space. See you then! × Thank You for Your Entry! Thank you for successfully submitting your model entry form! Please remember to refresh your browser to see your entry listed in our Entries Received area. × Scratch32 - The Official Scale Modeling Site for Race and Rail Enthusiasts! uses cookies to personalise and improve your user experience. 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