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    • Mini Infinity Routed HO Track Art was kind enough to accept the challenge to create a new HO track on a 3' foot by 7' foot base. It's a very cool layout. It's made of 3/8" inch MDF. The copper tape was custom spaced for HO cars. Variable power supply 0-30 volts - 10 amps. Track-Mate driver stations so Professor Motor 1/32 controllers can be used. Braids need to be installed on every car. The Thunderjet guide pins need to be sleeved to increase the diameter. I have mostly silicone HO tires, so this is a dedicated silicone track.

      Started by: KenKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 1 month ago

      KenKen

    • Parts required to assemble a chassis The following is a suggested parts list for a typical aluminum chassis build. 3/32 x 3/16 Professor Motor Oilite bushing part# PMTR 1073 (or bearings part# PMTR 1176). 3/32 Professor Motor axles part# PMTR 1034 (Hardened). A variety of different size axle spacers. NSR or Professor Motor brand seem to work well. Professor Motor 2x3mm set screws part# PMTR7000 (Hardened hollow point) or Spaenaur part#481-006 in bulk. Professor Motor silicone high-flex lead wire# PMTR 1060 (yellow) PMTR 1059 (black) PMTR 1058 (red). Slot.It universal screw-in guide part# CH10, or NSR 4845 screw-in guide. Slot.It 1mm competition braid part# SP19. Slot.It 23T offset crown gears. DArt Hobbies 10T pinions. DArt Hobbies BWMS050 motors. RS Slot Racing wheels UK, or Slot.It wheels. DArt tires. DArt Hobbies wheel inserts. #227 Evergreen styrene tubing for 4-40 body posts. 4-40 brass inserts for body posts. 4-40 countersink screws (Phillips preferred) DArt Hobbies #3 Urethane body washers. 5-minute epoxy. Note: Substitutions may create fitment or performance issues. Links to suppliers for parts: http://www.darthobbies.com/ https://www.professormotor.com/ http://www.raceworldcanada.com/shipping.php https://spaenaur.com/catalog/3/#zoom=z (1,716 pages)

      Started by: KenKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 1 month ago

      KenKen

    • Recent Group 25 show Hello friendly slot car racers.  It was good to see many of you at the show. Art and I had a great day as vendors at the show yesterday. However, it's impossible to attend a show and not have clingons follow you home. Both these kits have one-piece bodies and should make excellent S24 or Mini-Z cars. First up is a '61 Ferrari 250 GT SWB. This Lamborghini Miura is another impressive kit. Thank you very kindly for looking. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: S24

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    • 2 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQs Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQ By Steve DeGeyter — October 16, 2023 Q: What does NiMH stand for? A: The material is Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) which has many advantages over other battery construction materials. Q: What is meant by battery memory? A: Older generation and batteries with other chemical make-up were subject to a memory effect. This is when a battery must be fully drained before recharge or their capacity is reduced. The New Generation of NIMH batteries do not develop a memory effect and can be recharged at anytime during usage cycle. When uncertain about battery charge level or condition, recharge it. Q: What is the mAh rating mean? A: This is a rating of energy storage capacity mAh = “milli-ampere hours”. So if you are comparing batteries to a AA with a 2000 mAh rating, it will have twice the capacity of a 1000 mAh rating. Q: What is the best application for NiMH batteries? A: Most all applications where there is a high energy consumption and demand, is where NiMH belongs. The most popular applications are digital cameras, flashlights, and toys. If you find yourself constantly buying alkaline batteries for an application, then you should consider using rechargeable NiMH. Q: How many times can a NiMH battery be recharged? Rechargeable NiHM BatteriesA: Lower capacity rechargeable AA batteries of 1700 up to 2000mAh can be recharged up to 1000 times in overnight slow charge mode, while 2100 to 2400 mAh rechargeable batteries can be recharged up to 600 to 800 times in overnight slow charge mode. The new higher capacity AA 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries have greater power capacity, but they can only be recharged approx 500 times in the overnight mode. Capacity improvement or quick charging will always decrease the number of cycles. Every cell available on the market above 2100 mAh will have below 1000 charge cycles. Q: What applications are not good places to use NiMH batteries? A: Any situation where the battery is not used within a 30 day period or low energy draw devices, for example smoke alarms, emergency flashlights, clocks, TV remotes, etc. Q: Why won’t NiMH batteries work in some applications such as smoke alarms? A: NiMH batteries self discharge about 1% per day so if used in a low energy consummation or stand-by device, the battery will only last about 90 days before requiring recharge. Q: Can I use a higher rated mAh battery in my electronic device (i.e. 1800mAh vs. 2000mAh)? A: Yes, the mAh rating will give you longer run times between recharges. The higher rated mAh of a battery has no effect on electronic devices other than they allow longer term use. Q: Why are AA and AAA batteries rated at 1.2 volts and alkaline batteries rated at 1.5 volts? A: In fact, over the course of their discharge, alkaline batteries actually average about 1.2 volts. The main difference is that an alkaline battery starts at 1.5 volts and gradually drops to less than 1.0 volts. NiMH batteries stay at about 1.2 volts for almost 80% of their discharge cycle. Once alkaline batteries discharge to 50% capacity, it will be delivering a lower voltage than a NiMH battery. Q: What you NEVER want to do with replaceable batteries? A: Never mix batteries from different manufacturers Never mix batteries of different capacities Never mix batteries of different chemistries, i.e. NiCd, NiMH, Lithium, etc. Never DROP the battery if you can help it as NiMH batteries damage internally quite easily Never store NiMH in the refrigerator Never expose to extreme heat Q: Do NiMH batteries lose capacity over time? A: Yes, but nothing drastic. About 10 to 15% of the battery mAh capacity will be lost at the 400 to 800 recharge level. This will vary greatly because of battery and charger quality, along with how the consumer treats their batteries. Q: When I receive my batteries do I need to charge them? A: Yes, before you use them for the first time, you need to charge your NiMH batteries fully. Please note that for new NiMH batteries, it is often necessary to cycle them at least three to five times or more before they reach peak performance and capacity. The first several times that you use your NiMH batteries you may find that they run down (discharge) quickly during use. Don’t worry, this is normal until the batteries actually structure internally. Q: Is there a difference in chargers. i.e, fast, slow, microprocessor controlled, etc? A: Yes, there are differences in the different chargers on the market today. If the charger was designed and sold in the past couple years and specifically says it is made to charge NiMH batteries you are probably okay. Most of the new chargers use a small computer chip to manage the charge and you should be getting at least 500 charges from your batteries. If not, buy a new charger. Some of the no name batteries sometimes have a short life. Fast chargers also tend to give shorter battery life of less than 500 charges. Q: How do dispose of old NiMH batteries? A: This is an easy one! While it is safe and legal in most states to dispose of your NiMH battery in your regular trash, we always encourage recycling whenever possible.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 2 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Rally Class (RC) Rally Class (RC) v1.0 Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3: RC – Rally (Open Class)  Eligible Models: Any manufacturer’s Rally Car body (as raced with Fog Lights and Co Driver)  Chassis - Plastic Chassis (May be Stiffened), Glass appropriate to model  Motor and Configuration – Any up to 22K

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v1.0 Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3: HR - Hot Rod Class (Unlimited Class)  Any manufacturer with or without fenders – Model Years 1901 thru 1959;  Motor - BWMS050 in an inline configuration  Maximum tire width – 6mm  Maximum overall width of front and rear rolling assemblies is 51mm. Bodies/fenders may be wider;

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 61 Ranchero Hot Rod Though my 'handle' here is Porsche911, I LOVED the 'American Muscle' that ruled the roads in the 60's and 70's, Stangs, Camaro's, Cuda's and such, and as we have a 'Hot Rod' class, I wanted something...as John Cleese would say, "And now for something completely different". :>) I thought a departure, different than most of the others, and had an 'AMT Scale Stars' 61 Ranchero tucked away, so this is it. Because I elected to go with supplied full interior, it's likely nowhere near slammed low enough, nor light enough to be too fast but I think it looks Baaaad, if you're into that type of thing. Going forward, should I acquire another 1, I'd use a flat/card interior, and also rip out the entire bed and cover with a tonneau top. I did have to cut a wee bit to accommodate crown gear, hence the 'beverages' in the back, plus a guy could thirsty driving this. :>) Added some 'smoke' to tailpipes, and the 'Skull' to grill, might not be everyone's cuppa but after test fit, I loved it. Alas, my photo skills/lighting aren't the greatest so you may not be able to see the small decal details(all homemade). Lovely KRZ chassis fitted, slimcan 'Vanski' motor, 10X23, RS Slot wheels, D'Art inserts, driver by Pioneer and lady friend vintage Revell. Vinnies Hot Rods of Fresno has given the 'Lil Devil' a shakedown, and it's about 3/4 of a second off where it would be somewhat competitive, but it's fun, who knew I could be whimsical...LOL Hope you enjoy, Cheers!  

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 months ago

      KenKen

    • T32 Report – February 8, 2024 [foogallery id="42845"] Gents See the race results tally for the Boulevard Cruiser and Revoslot Jr series. Points are awarded to the top 6 in descending order (6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1) and 1 point is awarded to the fastest lap without breaking out. Boulevard Cruiser Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 2 DNA 4 5 6 3 6 0 29 4th Art DNA DNA DNA 0 DNA DNA 0 2.5 1 3.5 8th Brian 2 DNA 3 0 0 1 1 0 0 7 7th Gary 5 4 DNA 1 2 DNA 2 3 5 22 6th Jim DNQ 7 6 6 7 3 7 1 6 43 1st Ken 7 1 6 3 3 2 5 5.5 4 36.5 2nd Marcello 4 5 4 3 1 4 0 0 2 23 5th Robert 1 3 DNA 5 4 6 4 4 4 31 3rd Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 0 0 9th Podium - Jim 66 laps; Gary 64 laps; Cupcake 64 laps Kudos to Ken with the fast lap of 8.102 in blue lane Revoslot Jr. Points Summary Team Oct-3-23 Oct-19-23 Nov-9-23 Nov-23-23 Dec-7-23 Dec-14-23 Jan-11-24 Jan-25-24 Feb-8-24 Sub Total Alan 3 3 DNA 0 3 4 0 1 0 14 7th Art DNA DNA DNA 2 DNA DNA 5 2 6 15 5th Brian 2 DNA 3 1 2 1 3 0 3 15 6th Gary 5 5 DNA 4 4 DNA 4 5 2 29 3rd Jim DNQ 6 7 6 7 7 6 7 6 52 1st Ken 7 1 4 0 1 2 1 0 4 20 5th Marcello 4 6 5 4 5 6 4 3 0 37 2nd Robert 1 2 DNA 5 0 3 2 4 0 17 4th Van DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA DNA 0 1 1 9th Podium Jim 68 laps; Art 68 laps; Ken 68 laps Kudos to Art with the fast lap of 7.602 in yellow lane Kudos to Van for earning his first point in the Boulevard Cruiser class placing 6th with 66 laps! Vintage Mini results - night race 1) Jim with 57 laps; 2) Gary with 57 laps; Marcello with 55 laps.  Ken with the fast lap 9.407 and many faster laps with breakouts but his car was DQ due to no lights. Slot it DTM Results 1) Jim 73 laps; Gary 57 laps; Marcello 55 laps LeMans 22k 1) Jim 79 laps; Gary 72 laps; Art 70 laps The host enjoyed home track advantage to the max on this night. Thanks to all participants who made this another fun evening of racing! Stay tuned for Cupcakes invite with announcement of classes for our next race on Thursday Feb 22, 2024. Keep the pedal to the metal boys!

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: T32

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    • 3 months ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • Two Lane Blacktop-inspired ’55 Chevy Hey guys, I haven't raced with the group for a while. Having been invited back into the fold there were a few classes that I need to build cars for. One of which is Hot Rods. During the pandemic I ended up ordering a few movies to pass the time - one of which was Two Lane Blacktop. I had never seen it before, and it's really worth a watch. It's French New Wave meets hot rods in the best possible way. The hero car of the film is a '55 Chevy driven by "The Driver" (musician James Taylor), and worked on by "The Mechanic" (Beach Boys drummer Dennis Wilson). They travel from town to town with The Girl (Laurie Bird) engaging in street races and trying to hustle a few bucks along the way. Eventually the meet up with "G.T.O" (Warren Oates - I'll let you guess what he drives) who challenges them to a race to Washington D. C. - the winner taking the loser's car. I'm a big fan of movie cars, so after seeing this movie I set out to find myself a '55 Chevy body. I was lucky to find a Monogram Snap-Tite kit in 1/32 scale on ePay. Hot Rod rules call for the BWA FF050 slim can in an inline configuration with skinny wheels. Being a fan of the Slot.it HRS2 chassis I was able to source an FF050 motor pod on Shapeways. With all the bits and pieces in hand, it was time to hit the spray booth aka the level 3 stairwell vestibule in my condo's parking structure. Here's what I ended up with: The hood scoop is fabricated out of Evergreen sheet styrene. Driver is a vac-formed interior from Slot Car Corner. I went with the slammed stance since that's what it takes to get the CG down low. I opted for the side pipes because - why not? Anyhow, we'll see how well it runs at the next Hot Rod race. See you guys then! - DrV

      Started by: AvatarDrVanski in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • IROC 2024 Series Gents, Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too! Interested? The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery. Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations: Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout; Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone; Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes); Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well); On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races. Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race. Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible. The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models. If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation. Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point... This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly. The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100... Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...) Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant. The following molded colours will become available: Green (sold) Yellow (sold) Red (sold) Blue (sold) Charcoal White Orange (sold) Purple Brown/Rust Pink (sold) Baby Blue Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish. Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      KenKen

    • Welcome to T32 – The Toronto 1:32nd Slotters! Welcome to the T32 forum on Scratch32! If you are one of the lucky 9 to race with this Toronto based private slot car group you'll already know why. Races are held twice a month at both The River in Toronto and Cupcake Raceway in Vaughan. T32 races a combination of R32, SOS and their own unique classes as selected by their hosts. Class rules can be found here. This forum is moderated by JMSracer.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarDrVanski

    • Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) (Open Class) v1.0 Courtesy JMSracer: Rules for CLM22 - Classic LeMans 22k (Open Class) Eligible Models; Any manufacturers Sidewinder prototype cars which competed at LeMans between 1965†through 1970.  Brands Include but are not limited to Slot it, NSR, Thunderslot, Fly, SRC, Scalextric, Monogram, Policar, Spirit… Stock Body, Interior, Plastic Chassis-May be Stiffened. Glass appropriate to model Motor must be an S-Can 22,000 rpm or lower; Slot it orange, NSR 22k, MR Slotcar, Thunderslot, or Piranha 21.5k…… This class was originally created to allow racing of the stock Slot it GT 40's with orange motors and expanded to include all the rival models that raced at LeMans.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA) Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA) v1.0 Courtesy JMSracer: Rules for Revoslot TransAm Jr series; which includes the Alfa Romeo GTA's; Ford Escort MK1; BMW 2002's; and the Opel Kadet GT/E ONLY! This is a stock class and all that can be done is blueprinting, changing the guide with the deep wood guide that comes with the cars as a spare guide and installing Dart of KK urethane tires. Click on the link below to see a video on how to blueprint the Revoslot cars. Many have used the Dart rubber washers to install between the chassis instead of the Gorilla tape as recommended in the video, your choice.  Be careful not to true your front tires too much, they may not touch the track.  Some have bent the front part of their chassis to make the front touch the track in cases where the front was not touching. Revoslot Advance Tuning

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Courtesy of JMSracer: Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged).   Motor: BWNC1 only (only BWA S-can)   Chassis: Any in any configuration, with any gearing   Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Vintage Mini (VM) Vintage Mini (VM) (Modified Class) v1.0 Courtesy of JMSracer: Eligible Models: Scalextric 1959 and 1960's Vintage Mini's.  Inline with 14k slimline motor (Morris Mini's, Mini Cooper's);   Stock - Body, Interior, Chassis, Glass, Lights with modified slow slim BWA Motor .   Minimum overall weight – 70gm   Gear ratio 9 or 10 T pinion / 21 stock crown gear not to be tampered with   Wheel track must be kept within the model's body width, the wheels must not be visible when viewing the car from above.  Typically 43.5mm wide at rear and 44.5mm wide at front.   Permitted modification - can switch stock front stub axles with solid axle which will require a modification to guide with B-nova.  Also upgrade stock plastic wheels with aluminium replacements.   Basically, you should remove the stock stub axles in the front and install a solid axle which allows independent front wheel rotation, this will require you to cut the stock guide holder down to about 1mm thickness and install a B-Nova/ CG Slot guide adaptor to give the reduced guide holder some additional strength/support.  Install as much weight as you want, there is a minimum weight of 70 grams.  Remove the tiny 21T stock crown from the stock axle and install it onto a better replacement axle and replace all plastic wheels with aluminium wheels.  You must keep the 21T stock crown but can replace the stock 9T plastic pinion with a 10T brass/steel pinion.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Corvair progress, slowly…. Getting there,  I know, I know, do posts 1st, aesthetics last....well, perhaps a slow learner.....I had an opportunity for a few (rare) hours, so decided I would graphic my Corvair kit. All all old homemade decals(work well on white/silver bodies)Awaiting the chassis setup/motor/gears/wheels etc(KRZ chassis, thanks KRZ!)   Made a little 'scoop too'      

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • The Zing A basement track (no matter how small) to test, run and possibly race a Mini Z in the comfort of ones' own home is a rather nice luxury... so the project begins... let's see what can reasonably fit into the space I have right now... if testing proves that it is enough then a more permanent solution can be pursued... Just using EVA tiles with generic square corner foam barriers doesn't turn my crank - the track, just like the models on it, must have curb appeal. Let's get going with a paper template to test with and see what's possible. [caption id="attachment_42376" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Laying out the basic footprint using scrap paper.[/caption]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: The Zing

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    • 3 months ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Reinforcing the Front End – Mazda 787B The Kyosho Mini-Z hardbodies are quite brittle and impacts to the weak front quarters will likely crack the body just below the inner side of the headlamp casing. This happened to my 787B in what seemed to be a relatively minor tap of an inner border knuckle. Repaired left front quarter (see crack next to the tow hook) between the headlamp casing and the splitter - unpainted.The design of the narrow front body mounting bracket inside the nose of the model should handle head on impacts well enough - but exposes the front quarters. [caption id="attachment_42440" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Repaired left front quarter (after installing LED light kit). Notice the missing orange paint where the Plast-I-Weld was applied by brush to the underside. The paint on the surface remained fine.[/caption] The MR-03RWD chassis has provision to mount an added front bumper which could extend underneath the front splitter of the body but that's a separate topic - reinforcing the chassis - and for another day. Let me be clear with what I'm doing here - I'm no expert and not advising anyone to do this nor am I claiming that this is a good thing to do - it is simply an experiment that I'm sharing and the verdict will take time but I'm curious and willing to try. I'm relying on my own slot car experiences to see how much I can transfer to this branch of the hobby. That's all - and any comments, suggestions and improvements by reply are most welcome... So... To reinforce the front quarters I used a paper template and cut 1.6mm thick styrene sheet (as best I could) into two pieces designed to fit flush underneath the left and right headlamp casings. I then used Flex-I-File Plast-I-Weld applied liberally to bond the styrene to the bottom of the headlamp casings and along the edges butting the mounting box, the front and the sides. Be careful not to flood the headlamp casings or your clear lens covers will get damaged and the paint may bleed. Better yet, remove the lenses but don't gum up the tab openings with any adhesive. Flex-I-File's Plast-I-Weld Liquid Weld Satisfied with the strength of the weld so far I applied a thick filet of 5 minute two part epoxy to reinforce the quarters and fill the space above the mounting box. Haven't yet but I could paint the reinforced areas with flat black acrylic to make them a little prettier. Notice how the front white body mount (in white plastic) fits just inside the box and basically floats - and all of the momentum from any frontal impact of the body transfers to the white body mount (and chassis) through the two very small slightly wider 'tabs' extending just the width of that box. In any event, the extra styrene and epoxy added just 4.4g to the body - a small tradeoff for the piece of mind I now have. Weight of the Mazda 787B body (with light kit installed) before and after reinforcing the front end. [caption id="attachment_42435" align="alignleft" width="384"] Weight of the Mazda 787B Body with Light Kit[/caption] [caption id="attachment_42562" align="alignright" width="270"] Weight of the Mazda 787B body with light kit after reinforcing the front quarters.[/caption] My goal was to spread any minor impacts at the quarters to the whole front end of the body which I hope this does. Time will tell. Up next - an invisible (or discreet) front chassis bumper...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 4 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • NSR 917 White Kit FINALLY got around to finishing a 'White Kit' I painted and mostly decaled a long time ago...was in the "To be completed" group(along with many others) :>) Anyway, done...Took a while to configure a Pioneer driver as the NSR pilot just doesn't look right proportion, but it is a very nice kit. Will no doubt be waaay underpowered in the 'unlimited VLM' class, but so be it.    

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 4 months ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • In Memory of Model Murdering AKA Bill Hall A talented friend and personal HO mentor recently passed away from a massive stroke. Bill Hall was truly an Aurora HO master. He was a reputable Porsche mechanic in the 1:1 world. But he loved tinkering with slot cars. Bill did not invent "goop" (50% plastic and 50% Testors 3502 plastic cement). But he sure was an artist with it. Bill repaired old and rare cars that were long since discontinued back in the 60's. He could take a car that was stepped on, missing body posts and quarter panels. And reform every part to a factory finish. In proper colour, and without paint. I'll let the pics speak for themselves. Slate grey is one of the rarest Aurora split window Stingrays for HO size slot cars. Bill didn't get a chance to polish it before passing away. An old El Camino that got crushed. Beside broken window posts. One of the second biggest issues with old Aurora cars is many people opened up the rear fender wells with a rough blade or file to get monster tires to stick out past the body. The flea markets are littered with them. Most colours aren't worth saving. But black ones sure are. R.I.P. my dear friend Bill Hall.

      Started by: KenKen in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 4 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • S24 Dec 16/23 With Christmas around the corner. It was good to finish off the year with some relaxing laps around the track with the bigger cars. There were a few cars missing, as well as a few new ones. Up first is Felix's Monte Carlo. Sittin' low and looking sharp on a brass chassis. Chris B showed up with two new cars. A '60 Starliner, and a '67 Comet Cyclone GT. Nothing like jumping in with two feet. MIA made a new foam interior for his car. It went on a diet and lost a ton of weight. He says it accelerates much faster. The jury is still out on whether it's an improvement or not. Crazy paint and stripes on this car! Jim installed a new lightweight interior in his pink '60 Starliner. That almost completes the car. But his new '62 ultra red BelAir complete with interior sure made everyone's eyes pop! More new stuff to come next month! Merry Christmas to everyone!!!

      Started by: KenKen in: S24

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    • 4 months ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • 64 Impala SS The green colour of this Impala is amazing. A white vinyl roof really sets it off. Drew did a stunning job with the paint. The hood was epoxied in place. Then the extra posts for the static chassis were trimmed off.  The rad support was also removed. The chassis was assembled to set the height of the body posts. The post lengths are 31mm front, and 30mm rear. The numbers on the chassis are the tire diameters. The body will sit about 1mm higher with the stainless and urethane washers added. This is the same body height as the Olds 442. The wheel well shape makes it look very different. A thicker washer can be added to the rear body posts to create a little more rake. More to follow. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      KenKen

    • DArt Watson Indy It's been a while since I started something for myself. Time to dust off the machinery. I found this cool photo of a Watson Indy in metallic orange. That was the inspiration to start this car. I just painted this today. Super nice day outside. The build begins.  

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 11
    • 6 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 66 Corvair Long before I joined S32 and Group 25. I built an AMT 1/25 static 1966 Corvair. I didn't paint it because I didn't know how. I eventually learned how to disassemble and paint cars. It was time to re-visit the old Corvair. It has a new chassis with a corrected wheelbase.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 3
    • 6 months ago

      KenKen

    • 71 Charger RT Someone requested a lesson in paint. Today was the day. I needed something to paint in order to show what to avoid. The only body I had ready to paint was an AMT 71 Charger RT. It was one of my first model car kits as a 10-year old. Time to fulfill an old childhood dream and make this one go! This colour leans more towards a Kawasaki green. No metallic. I think it suits the car. Now I can put it aside for a few weeks while I do other things.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 2
    • 6 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that competed in a state or club sanctioned road, rally, endurance race or a grand prix between the years 1900 through to 1939 anywhere in the world; Low Power BWMS050 Motor Only; Any Inline Chassis; Wheels: Must not exceed 16.5 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in width; Tires: DArt urethane club series (DA0210 recommended). Tires must not exceed 23 mm in diameter; and Maximum Width: 51mm (actually 50.8 mm – excluding fenders or insert detail which may extend beyond).

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 1
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    • 6 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Wouldn’t this be fun!!! Perhaps if we pool ALL of our $$$$$, we could share this for 'runabouts'...LOL   https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1965-brabham-bt14?utm_source=Email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=SF_CC_Global_Daily_v6_17/October/2023&utm_term=&utm_id=425205&sfmc_id=36918294   Wonder if there's a reasonable facsimile of the Transporter in 32'nd scale??   Enjoy!!  

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Historical 1:1

    • 3
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    • 6 months ago

      DBDB

    • Recent Slot Car Flea Market This is the fourth year that Michael and I made the trek out to Dungannon for the flea market. It's always a beautiful drive out to the country this time of year. We always have a lot of fun. Here are a few pics from the show. Lots of HO scale vendors there. But there's always a few 1/32 temptations. I only bought one 1/32 car. Something I've been looking for, for a long time. The yellow Boss 302 Mustang in street trim. And a few old HO cars. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Other Local Events & Happenings

    • 1
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    • 6 months ago

      KenKen

    • Bearings and axles Greetings from Bancroft gentlemen. I usually take something with me when I go to the cottage. The Watson Indy needed to be assembled. Every once in a while I run into an oversized axle that doesn’t fit the bearings. I’m glad I brought other things to do. Too bad I only brought two axles for the build. Make sure to bring a bearing with you to Ernie’s to test any axles you want to buy. Ernie doesn’t make the axles himself and will happily exchange any axle that doesn’t fit.

      Started by: KenKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

    • 1
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    • 7 months ago

      KenKen

    • Recent Group 25 Show The show was a success. But it did have a few set backs. I was not feeling well and arrived very late. No early bird specials for me. Art was held back and could not make it. Everyone wishes him well, and sent greetings. Comparison to last year: Show stats. Contest - 162 entries  Last year 210 entries # through the door....436    Last year…383 I had no desire to buy anything this year. But staring across at Marty and Cindy's tables all day was a temptation in itself. A Ferrari for $15. Someone already started the chassis. Shame. Slot car maybe? I bought this for $20. Thanks Marty and Cindy! Ted and I often trade stuff. He donated this to me. A Strombecker Citroen?! It's in amazing shape except for the tires. Thanks Ted!

      Started by: KenKen in: Other Local Events & Happenings

    • 3
    • 4
    • 7 months ago

      KenKen

    • Baldwin Motion Vega I was recently talking to a friend about this car. It's nothing like its little sister with the 4-cyl failure with the aluminum block. If a Motion Camaro, Vega, or Corvette came up to your sports car at a red light. You quickly made a right turn to avoid being embarrassed. You can just barely detect the 454 badge on the side of the fender. A sleeper it wasn't. You could hear one coming for you half a mile away.

      Started by: KenKen in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 2
    • 7 months ago

      KenKen

    • Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 Test Car I had a white NSR Porsche 908/3 body and looked for a Targa Florio livery but it looked like they have all been done by our talented members. I came across a Test Car painted red but the images I could find were mostly black and white with the odd colour photo. My scratch built chassis used a Slot It motor pod and I have to thank Ken for drilling the 4 holes through the brass stock to accept the pod.  You can't beat a Drill Press!  

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 5
    • 8 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Revoslot Sr/Jr & Boulevard Cruisers For those racing at Riverdale and Cupcake: This is just a reminder that the Revoslot Jr and the Sr class are both "STOCK" classes.  This means you cannot change the gearing, all you are allowed to do is to blueprint the cars and install urethane tires.  If you ever strip a gear which is almost impossible to do unless you are doing something wrong.... you must replace it with the stock gear that came with the cars.  Going forward, before you make any modifications to your cars, please read the rules first. In the Revoslot Jr class; all but the BMW 2002 are geared 9/24; the BMW is 9/23 and I believe one of them is 9/27. Big Boat vs Boulevard Cruiser. A follow up reminder, the Boulevard Cruiser is an open class except for motor which is limited to only the 14k BWA S-Can.  There is no weight limit and you can have any chassis, any gearing, urethane rear tires.  Any body 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended; Vs. Big Boat Although this class allows literally all the same models as the Boulevard Cruiser... This class has a minimum weight, body length. open gearing, open chassis and allows a 15k JACK RABBIT MOTOR. The way to remember it is Boulevard Crusiser is only BWA motor, Big Boat is Jack Rabbit motor...

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

    • 1
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    • 8 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 62 Bel Air, Bubble Top The bubble tops were interesting cars. I would hate to flip one in an accident. But they sure looked cool. Here are the parts. The inspiration for this build came from these photos. This is what the test looked like before the body posts were installed. The body still needs the chrome strip going the full length of the car. I'll attempt that another day when I feel brave. A full interior made of card stock is next. Thank you kindly for looking. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 8 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • S24 Aug, 19/23 I was able to take a few pics before everyone left for the day. The field is growing. Chris and Drew's cars should both be ready for the next S24 event.

      Started by: KenKen in: S24

    • 1
    • 0
    • 8 months ago

      KenKen

    • Another Indycar After looking at all the wonderful builds for the Indycar class, I felt inspired and decided to join in. I used the reliable KRZ aluminum chassis, DArt Watson Roadster kit, RS Slot wheels, and of course DArt urethane tires. The car is the Bryant Heating and Cooling Special driven by Len Sutton.  Something a little different since we already have AJ and Parnelli liveried cars.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
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    • 9 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • DArt Auto Union Type D This is the season to paint cars. Yesterday was another perfect paint day. So I kept the momentum going. This colour is Tamiya TS-7 racing white. It will match my type C. I can officially start a team. "Club Weisse". No clear-coat required for this lovely pastel colour.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
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    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

    • S24 Runabout Sessions Gents, Future S24 runabout sessions will no longer require registration. Please understand that these sessions are for active members of Scratch32. Anyone without a Scratch32 account who might be interested in participating should contact either myself or Ken. Normally these sessions will be held once a month on a Saturday but there will be the odd switch to a Sunday due to scheduling constraints. Looking ahead we will begin racing our large scale (1:25) Boulevard Cruisers. If you have more than one model you can enter and race each one as a separate entry (numbers permitting). For info on class requirements please check the other threads in this subforum or just ask us. Eventually we'll post class criterium in accordance with the suggestions in those threads. If you do not have time to build your own chassis but are interested in participating please contact Ken to commission one of his KRZ chassis. Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: S24

    • 2
    • 3
    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

    • Modern F1 class Thoughts have recently been exchanged at the last race about the modern F1 class. Many intersting points were made. I bought a Scalex modern F1 last Thursday night. It hit the floor twice on Saturday, and is now broken. The reason I bought it was because my other car sucks and is in need of a total rebuild. Now I have two Scalex cars in need of major repairs. I looked at Electric Dreams to see what a new Scalex car retails for. The average is $100 in US funds. There's an one ugly one in the bunch for $65 US. Many are as high as $129 to $149 just for an ordinary F1 car. Here's the car I bought last Thursday. It's available at Electric Dreams for $129 US funds.   This car below is also $129 in US funds.   While on the same site, I checked out Policar modern F1's. They start at $54.95 US for a generic coloured car.   A fully decorated car like the one below goes as high as $64.95 USD. Not all that expensive. Instead of changing everything at once and pushing everyone into totally changing cars for this class. Can we add the Policar brand to the modern F1 class? If the Policar F1 is a lot cheaper, readily available, and a slightly better platform. Everyone should have no trouble phasing out the Scalex cars on their own over time. If someone is fully dedicated to their Scalex car, and talented at tuning them. Why not keep them going too? Just some food for thought since there were a few broken F1 cars last Saturday. I'm not looking forward to fixing either of my Scalex F1's. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: R32

    • 5
    • 6
    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

    • 1965 Impala Super Sport This pre-painted and fully assembled static model came from a Group25 flea market. It was a quick test to see how these large cars would run at Nova Ridge. It was quickly turned into a slot car test bed. My humble apologies. The paint is ugly. But it passed the test. With the slot car test a complete success. It was time to freshen up the body. Off with the old paint. A full interior made of paper is next. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 9 months ago

      KenKen

    • 1966 Olds 442 W30 I've never seen a slot car of a 66 Olds. It's an odd duck. Either you like them, or you don't. There's no middle ground. The box. The only parts that actually came in the box. Barely enough for a slot car. A pic of a completed kit on Google inspired the Tamiya Cobalt Green colour. A chassis was made. The car fell on its roof seconds after painting it. Thankfully a vinyl roof was in the works anyways. Problem solved. Mating the chassis to the body. The car is ready to run. It needs bumpers, window/body chrome, windows, and interior.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 2
    • 9 months ago

      MiAMiA

    • Cupcake Raceway Big Boat Class (2023) Cupcake Raceway II Big Boat Class (as per email of today) Any model body plastic, or 3 D printed from 1955 to 1967 No numbers max width 63 mm min length155mm plastic brass or aluminium chassis driver and interior open gearing Any motor configuration 80 gram min weight Jack Rabbit motor 14 K preferred, BWA OR vanski if you want ( Ernie is stocking Jack rabbits for us for 12.50 each) Hard top or convertible. KK tires or Darts only....

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: T32 Class Criterium

    • 1
    • 0
    • 9 months ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Stripping Old Paint Most of us know the benefit of using Super Clean to remove a bad paint job. But every once in a while you get stubborn paint that just won't budge. I bought this pre-painted body at a flea market for $5 as a quick test. Once it past the slot car test. I could not bear to look at the paint. It had a lot of bad blotches in various spots. The body looked like this after soaking for 2-weeks in Super Clean. The hood was the first test for Easy-Off oven cleaner. Overnight in Easy-Off did the trick. The only spots of paint left were from when glued covered the paint.

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 2
    • 1
    • 10 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1964 Rover BRM I got very lucky in finding this kit. They simply aren't available anymore. The real cars were gas-turbine powered test-beds. Very strange car. The first step to planning out the chassis: What is the wheelbase? Using tires that are too large just for the purpose of measuring the wheelbase can reduce room for error. I happen to have a pair of old 17" inch Slot.It wheels/tires that were the wrong choice for another car. Perfect! Slide the body into the wheels/tires until the wheel-wells of the body centers the tires. (this one's easy because the wheel wells are round) Carefully slide the body away making sure not to move the wheels. I measure the left side of the axle holes on both wheels to get the wheelbase. In this case it's 73.30mm. It doesn't matter what the actual finished tire diameter is. The wheels will be perfectly centered in the wheel well. The old 17" inch wheels go back on the shelf to measure the next car.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 8
    • 10 months ago

      AvatarGI

    • Gear ratio for a Fox-10 Art was kind enough to provide a few 38T spurs to start the ball rolling. A 13t pinion was chosen for the first test for a 2.92 ratio. The rear tires were trued to 27mm in diameter. Turns out this was perfect for the Nova Ridge track. Jim and I went head to head beside each other for many laps. We were laughing all the way. I've always wanted to tinker with 1/25, but didn't think we could. I've had about thirty 1/25 kits hanging around from before I got into slot cars.

      Started by: KenKen in: S24

    • 1
    • 0
    • 11 months ago

      KenKen

    • Paint Spree I just got back from the cottage, and painted a body or two while I was there. The first was a flat black Fly truck with a tobacco livery. A crappy colour with an undesirable livery is great excuse to paint it. Taking it apart was interesting. At least the weather was nice. Then I painted a few HO bodies. Between the truck and the HO cars, I went through three cans of clear-coat and ran out before I finished painting. Three bodies still need clear-coat. Practise is good.

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

    • 6
    • 8
    • 11 months ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • The Young Racers 1963 movie Stumbled on this movie tonight. Kind of a precursor to Grand Prix. Pretty cheezey, melodramatic story but it features colour footage of the 61 or 62 F1 season. A lot of it is sped up unfortunately but still worth checking out. Monaco, Spa, Rouen, Reims and Aintree are featured. Lots of pit lane and paddock shots. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NKTmrpVtz6M&pp=ygUQVGhlIHlvdW5nIHJhY2Vycw%3D%3D

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 2
    • 11 months ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 2023 R32 Summer Break Gents, With the spectacular weather comes cottaging, family vacations, BBQs, sailing and many other outdoor weekend commitments so R32 will take a well deserved summer break until September. The fall schedule for both R32 and S32 is now online so check for classes and dates. Hopefully this will give everyone ample opportunity to get any unfinished projects completed. Please note that the R32 race at MVL originally planned for this Saturday is unfortunately cancelled due to insufficient registration (3). My sincerest apologies to GI and KensRedZed but at least everyone still has a chance to make alternate plans. Enjoy the break and I'll hopefully see everyone in September!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 4
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    • 11 months ago

      KenKen

    • You’ve taken me to the Darkside…. Yes, I vowed I wouldn't succumb to peer pressure, get engaged in the 1/25 60's sedan builds, well...guess what, I am weak... Got the Super Body kit deal from RZ (Thank you!), happened to have some 1/24, 1/25 engine parts(I knew I had a purpose when buying them), and voila....Still to be finished paint wise, chrome, touch ups etc, and of course, I need a KRZ chassis(Hello Ken) :>) Would like to shod this beast with Cragar style wheel inserts(Art). Overall, very happy with it so far, will see how it shakes down, and for me, the 3ft 30MPH rule is in effect... :>)  

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1953 Carrera Panamericana winner       Fangio and Bronzoni won the 1953 Carrera Panamericana in their number 36 D24 Lancia. The slow motor classes are some of my favorites so I thought I'd give o'l number 36 a try. When finished this car should qualify for both our 50's sports car and our Carrera Panamericana classes. The body is 3D printed in Elegoo ABS like resin from a file I purchased online. The chassis was designed and printed by me in PLA+ on my FDM printer. The body weighs 10.5 grams and the chassis adds another 5. The D24 has very little front overhang, making designing the chassis and the location of the various front end components a challenge. I will add the body posts and source the images for making the decals next. Cheers Steve  

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
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    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • Put more weight in your pocket!!! $$$$ that is....Was tired of paying $6-7 for Lead weight, very small pieces, so looked for alternative, and found this https://www.amazon.ca/Surtiycrii-Self-Adhesion-Pickleball-Material-Thickness/dp/B0BHQXY7TD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YJX8EVDXXINC&keywords=Surtiycrii+W+1%2F2%27%27+x+L+100%27%27+High+Density+Lead+Tape+Self-&qid=1680190748&sprefix=surtiycrii+w+1%2F2%27%27+x+l+100%27%27+high+density+lead+tape+self-%2Caps%2C459&sr=8-1 W 1/2" X L100" X 1MM thick 372 Grams of Lead weight in just about perfect size width( on a roll, $20 CANADIAN!!! :>) Even if I have to put 10GR in every car, does a LOT...As they say, do the math. :>) With all the money you're saving, I'll let you buy me a Beer! LOL      

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

    • 3
    • 3
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarGI

    • 59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser".

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 9
    • 1 year ago

      KenKen

    • R32 Classes for 2023 Gents, I know many of you have been overwhelmed with new classes in every group that races in southern Ontario. R32 is no exception but rest assured that our R32 classes are now fixed for the balance of 2023. Recently we've added several classes as a fifth experimental race. We've also included them in our Class Criteria subforum for reference going forward. At this point R32 has 23 classes in total. You'll find them all within our Class Criteria subforum. Some of the 'new' R32 classes are not new at all. The original Sportscar (SP) [and later Sportscar Plus (SP+)] class[es] which included any sportscar raced between 1950 and 1969 are now divided into four distinct classes: 50SP - 1950's Endurance Sportscar 60SP - 1960's Endurance Sportscar USSP - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar USSP+ - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus Any host can combine these if they wish, such as 50SP and 60SP as Porsche911 did last visit to Spa Lyons. Trans Am Plus (TA+), Boulevard Cruisers (BC) and Indy Roadster (IR) have been on our radar for many years. You can find several threads for each of these classes started years ago in our forums area. Simply use the search scratch32 website feature at the bottom of any page to find helpful examples of discussions, builds and tests posted by many of you which have proved very beneficial in getting these classes up and running. Unlimited Open (U) while a new class is not really anything requiring a new build or anything special since everyone racing with R32 will already have more than suitable models that have no class to race under. Models previously raced in the former Classic Prototype series (CP) are all great candidates as are other RTR models such as the Mosler. Well, there you have it. Going forward R32 will add a fifth race to every race morning and these new classes will feature equally within our schedule for the balance of 2023. I'll remind you that the KRZ chassis works very well for both the boulevard cruisers and indy roadsters (among many others). Contact Kensredzed to order one if you don't have a car already. In addition to our usual R32 rotation we will have S32 special events including American Thunder, La Carrera Panamericana, Ringwood, Coppa D'oro, Targa Florio, Player's 200 and the Internationale Meisterschaft for those hankering to scratchbuild even more! Now get building!!!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

    • 1
    • 0
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Ford GT Alan Mann Heritage Edition Gents, Some of you who visited our host MVL Leasing saw the Alan Mann Heritage Edition Ford GT. A beautiful super car and wonderful tribute livery straight from the Ford factory. From MVL's Instagram account these photos were released: For more information visit: Top Gear Article

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 1 year ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged). Motor: BWNC1 Chassis: Any in any configuration Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D7 (black or white walls) strongly recommended]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 1
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    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Indy Roadster (IR) Indy Roadster (IR) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any true, front engined roadster that tested, registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards. Eligible Liveries: Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced are allowed. Motor: BWMS050. Chassis: Any inline front motor configuration where the complete motor 'can' is forward of the base of the windscreen. The motor may be offset. The motor shaft extension may use additional bushings/bearings and be directly attached to the motor shaft with any flexible coupling (such as a spring or soft tubing) or be offset using any gearing. Minimum Weight: 80g Maximum Overall Width: 54mm Tires: Any sized DArt Club Series urethane tires with a reasonable scale appearance. [DArt D7.5 strongly recommended]

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 1
    • 0
    • 1 year ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Pieces for D’Art Chappy 2J Kit Sold at GRP25 show Hello gents, somehow I'd acquired 2 of the beautiful D'Art Chappy 2J kits, decided to sell 1 at the show...I sold it to a gent, he asked me to open and show to him which I obliged, but shortly afterwards, I noticed a very small ziplock that had some of the kit detail in it(Roll bar/Mirrors/Stacks), which he must have not put back in...I feel really bad, I looked for him but couldn't find him. Perhaps someone knows him?? If so, please give them my contact details, and would be happy to mail to him. He must be in the 'Slotcar community', so maybe you know him, or could ask around. Thank you,   Drew

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Other Local Events & Happenings

    • 1
    • 0
    • 1 year ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

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