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A VERY cool Pioneer video https://youtu.be/QWAidDUDff4 Enjoy!
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in: Slot Related Curiosities, Oddities & One of a Kind
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- 6 years ago
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Tamiya Modeling Wax I've just started using this product from Tamiya and it really does bring out the lustre of your paint. It comes with its own 'cloth' applicator and is very easy to apply. No white haze after applying but make sure to remove any excess and simply buff to a brilliant shine with a tiny piece of cotton T-shirt scrap - just remember to be careful picking up your model since it will be slick - and no finger prints either! I haven't used this yet over unprotected decals so I'm not sure if it will attack them - best to do a test piece first. Retailing for around $12-$15 per bottle/kit at almost any hobby shop (that carries Tamiya products) a tiny drop goes a long way so price shouldn't really be a worry.
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 6 years ago
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Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Chaparral 2A Not really scratch built but I will ask for forgiveness later :unsure: The Strombecker body I have had for years and always meant to paint plus I had a spare strombecker brass chassis. I opted to use a 1/32 set up which has worked out well. Motor is a Plafit Fox 11 (25k). Gears are slot-it. Wheels and inserts are BWA - though they are not quite right but they were in my spare box. Tires are DArts. Windscreen is cracked but a Future treatment has improved it while I look for another one (I know, good luck). Anyway, thought I would share.
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 6 years ago
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Austin Healey 100S This is a surviving version of one of these models. For the brief Silodrome article click here or check the attachment below... [foogallery id="5819"]
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- 6 years ago
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Perfect Paint by Alex Kustov Here is a great article by Alex Kustov entitled 'Perfect Paint'
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- 6 years ago
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Ferrari 612 CANAM Ferrari 612 CANAM A few shots of the first completed DArt Ferrari 612 CANAM model. This model uses only the stock parts included with the DArt body kit - mirror, rollbar, driver's head and inkjet decals. Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer was used over Tamiya Fine Primer. The paint was polished but there is no clear coat on this one. Wax was the preferred final finish. The shell is mounted to the chassis using two centrally located posts, one immediately behind the front axle, the other infront of the motor. DArt urethane washers placed between the posts and the chassis dampen movement of the shell. The chassis was one of my first scratch built sidewinder configurations. This is a simple chassis - nothing fancy - but it is perfectly balanced. As you can see it is not polished or clear coated and so shows its age (although well I think). The centre brass section was added when the chassis was tuned for racing. If memory serves well the motor is a Fox 10 soldered directly to the chassis with 11 x 36T Slot.It pinion and spur gear. Aftermarket hard drill blank axles through brass tube at the front and oilite bushings at the rear attach BWA 15" .380 sized alloy wheels with DArt small inserts (included with the kit) and DArt urethane tires (SI0201) front and back. A vintage nylon guide was chosen for this project. This chassis/shell combination proves that you need not do anything fancy to make a rocket. The front wheels could yet be converted to independent spinners to further enhance cornering speeds - but why bother when it is at the sharp end already? Setting sail to another country hopefully this model will offer as much enjoyment for its new host/collector as it did for me. :cry:
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- 6 years ago
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The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!
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- 6 years ago
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'55 Daihatsu This was my door prize at the December IROC meet. Decided to put it together over the holidays. I added Slotter wheels on the rear, gearing and a motor with the intention of having it run. But alas was stumped by the guide flag issue. So having it as a static model for the time being. Added a wood bed using popsicle sticks and a couple of coats of Citadel ‘Nuln Oil’ Shade.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 6 years ago
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Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...
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- 6 years ago
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Another Policar GP – 1970 March 701 Porsche911 brought another wonderful Policar March 701 for some tires - out of the box it runs very well. We mounted DArt FL0203 on the plastic rear wheels... Not R32 class eligible out of the box but performance is comparable.
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- 6 years ago
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Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 917/10 debut Mosport 72 For your viewing pleasure! And, interesting blip at about the 8min mark... https://youtu.be/uO-70EQ8mPA :yahoo:
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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RIP Mr. Gurney: A life well lived… With an interview with Dan towards the end. :rose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fl3HRvv1qWo&feature=youtu.be
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Cobra vs. Ferrari A BBC documentary with some some good historical footage of the era. A good way to spend the last few hours of your year. Happy New Year all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vojnf8shDHY&feature=youtu.be
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width. The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred. Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height. As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year. :yahoo: Dave
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Filler – Caution Using Plastic Cement & Styrene Mixture… Hi Art: I just want to give you a cautionary note related to the Plastic cement & Styrene mixture for use as a filler... I had been told that the expert modellers use it as a filler in place of putty. I had collected rotary cutter shavings from the last time I was cutting a curve in a thick sheet of polystyrene. I left them to dissolve in a well capped Tamiya paint bottle, half-filled with Testors plastic cement, and added small cut-off pieces from time to time. The mixture eventually became well dissolved into a consistent paste. This is the first chance I have had to make use of the mix, to fill in the mounting-pin holes at the side of the Tamtech body. They are countersunk funnel shaped holes of 4 mm surface diameter and extending beyond the body inside surface. So they took a larger volume of the mix. I left the body overnight and found that only the surface of the fill was cured. I could press into it and make indentations. It became a bit harder after a couple more days. When I finally sanded it down, the centers of the fill was still pliable. The final stages of working it showed that the putty had in fact, not bonded to the plastic surface of the body and I was able to pop it out of the hole. I now realize that I should have tried an application of the straight liquid cement over the surface before applying the filler mix. Also, if you are making use of this type of mixture, it may be best to apply it in thinner layers. Alternatively, you may want to test some additives. The formulation of the plastic cement is thrown out of balance with the addition of the styrene, so adding a bit of curing agent may help. However, we wouldn't want a mix that is too thin to shape. Adding a bit of Acetone may be worth testing. Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide is the hardener/curing component for most epoxies and is also involved in the plastic cement, as acetates of that compound, so it may be worth trying. So I think the technique needs a bit more testing. I've tried a few tests myself, but I don't have enough volume of the mix to test different additives. I've been preparing the body for painting and for cutting out the light lenses. It has a great number of mould seam lines, so a lot of sanding. That exposed more of the small imperfections in the surfaces. I thought I had caught everything then I found a seam across the whole width, under the front edge of the rear wing; it became very visible under oblique lighting. It was tricky smoothing it out under the wing, especially with the intake screen right at the edge. I have the body all sanded now, so I can try re-filling those mounting holes, then cut out the seven lens sections. Sorry if this is more detail than you need Art! I didn't want to leave you without complete info, and thought you may need the background if you try out the technique some time. Thanks Art; good luck with the work. Hope to see you soon. Austin.
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- 6 years ago
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60-70s Sponsors and Signage Hi lads, if you're interested, I have a file(too large to upload here) that contains many 'signs' and or logo's you could use to decorate your track, or convert to decals for cars. Let me know and I can e-mail to you. Simply click/grab the image, and you can resize. :good:
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in: Decals
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- 6 years ago
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Sebring 1957 Just to see how this works, so we may as well have the Wayback go way back. These images are from my dad's collection taken almost 60 years ago, so please keep them within the group. Due to the 100k suggested limit the images have become a bit grainy. Should anyone be interested contact me for larger file sizes. As time goes by I'll try to figure how to add a little info to each image.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Just for fun So, just for fun, what is this type of construction called? Who developed it? Who used it? Bonus marks for major benefits and major drawbacks. More bonus marks for how some of these drawbacks were mitigated to some extent. And a guess at which car is in the photo above.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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MotorSport Podcast series Really great series of podcasts with many historic figures from F1 and other series Alastair Caldwell McLaren Team manager podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsbXE2Owaps Many others Frank Dernie ex Williams engineer is another great one. Enjoy!
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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1962 BRM P578 'Stackpipe' A wonderful article on the 1962 BRM P578 Stackpipe (attached below). "The best compromise seemed to match the pipe lengths, which meant pointing them skywards, and adding megaphone ends to assist extraction. Thus the slinky 578 gained its famous stackpipes: its most famous feature is a drag-making lash-up."
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- 6 years ago
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Interesting VW and site Greetings, stumbled upon this site whilst looking for information on the resin body/kit I picked up at thee SLotcar show, a 'Daimler 250' (thanks for ID'ing MiA!) the wee beast had a V8 Hemi!...ANyway, look at this VW, don't believe I've ever seen 1, and what a beaut. You could make it yours too...$$$ Lots of other 1:1 Candy. :good: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-puma-gt-1600/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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The Second Lost Generation from Italy – Baghetti, Bandini, Scarfiotti, Giunti A tremendous overview on these Italian Ferrari Drivers covering the 1960's through early 1970's - with pictures.
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- 6 years ago
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Restoring Wood Finishes – Circa 1850 Lemon Oil Furniture Treatment Regularly restore the natural oils on your custom made pit boxes with this easy to use furniture treatment. Easy to apply and with minimal odour. Can be found at most local Canadian retailers or order online from the manufacturer (from their Canadian web store).
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- 6 years ago
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Mosport 1960 video https://www.onf.ca/film/homme_vite/embed/player/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Great Historical reference site http://www.grandprixhistory.org/story.htm And below initial picture is 'please select a section' option, lots of specific subjects...Cosworth/Tyrell/The Lauda years/Turbo Years and many more. You could spend a lot of time here. ANd...Many subforums on left of page in Blue; CanAm/ Circuits/ Targa Florio/Great races, and of course a SLotcar section.
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in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
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- 6 years ago
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Fantastic Artwork Some beautiful creations, with detail of the event. https://unique-limited.com/gallery And more...Lovely posters, fantastic images! https://automobilist.com/ Enjoy :yahoo:
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 356 Super – 1952 La Carrera Panamericana #10 1952 Carrera Panamericana - ‘S’ class - #10 Porsche 356 Super (von Berckheim/Linge/von Hohenlohe) – DNF accident 3rd leg I forgot about this Carrera Panamericana project which I started last spring. I’ll list the parts and products used which together with a few pictures should at the least supplement my own memory down the road if anything worked particularly well (or not). In each project I try to incorporate lessons learned from my prior mistakes and from the tips of others – but old habits are hard to break. Nevertheless here is what I used and how it went together for better or worse. It was important to me to that this model had an appropriate stance and was not ‘slammed’. As always I sorted my wheels and tires before starting the chassis. Once I knew the overall diameter of the front and back wheels/tires I set up my jig to shoot for a chassis clearance of approximately 3mm which in most cases will allow for a slightly higher body position and therefore in my opinion a more suitable stance and overall look. The body was a Ninco classic Porsche 356 with the plate light, tail pipe openings, tear drop tail lamps as well as front turn signal provisions filled in using Tamiya white putty. Everything was primed and painted with Tamiya rattlers – white primer and two coats of Racing White. It isn’t clear to me from the black and white photos what the exact colour was so I did not sweat it and chose one which looked nice. The decals were all created using whatever images I could find and modify from the internet using Microsoft Photodraw and Word then custom printed using my inkjet printer and given two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (Gloss) to seal them. No clear coat was applied to this body since the paint itself already had a nice gloss finish. On closer inspection some of the areas that I filled with Tamiya putty are still distinguishable but I decided not to spend any more time on the body. The chromed pieces (ie. mirror, wipers, handles, headlamp bezels, etc.) were all stripped and repainted using Krylon Chrome then dipped in Pledge acrylic floor polish (with a drop of windex added) to seal each piece. Although sealing the chrome dulled it somewhat I opted to seal it for better protection from handling, especially the door handles and rocker trim. The headlamps were dipped in Pledge acrylic before mounting and front and rear signal/tail lights together with reflectors were positioned and fixed in place using Gorilla Glue clear epoxy – as were all of the accent pieces. The interior was the very slightly modified Ninco classic Porsche 356 interior but I used a different pilot and upgraded the steering wheel. The interior was painted but remained black with red accents/stripes on the seats and together with the single piece glass secured in place using Gorilla clear epoxy. The completed body and interior weighs in at 24.7 grams which includes a pair of brass body post inserts for 440 screws. I kept things simple and just sleeved the existing body posts using #227 Evergreen styrene tubing although I did add some bracing to the front post. For the chassis I pulled four BW15-200 series wheels which were painted at the same time as the body and mounted DArt SC0118 tires front and back (I used the slightly smaller SC0118F on the front). I opted for a sidewinder setup and decided to go old school and just use brass tubing to hold the front and rear axles. To keep things even simpler I made the Ninco NC1 motor can a part of the chassis and soldered both the front half of the chassis and the rear axle tubing directly to the can. For those concerned about the effect of heat on the motor magnets and plastic endbell it would be possible given how this chassis was constructed to remove the endbell along with the motor guts and solder only the can in place then reinsert everything but since the target motor for this class is a ‘slow’ motor which is not to be opened I left it as is. A plastic repop of the classic Ninco guide was secured using 4mm brass tube soldered to a custom made brass front plate. At the back an additional ‘U’ shaped piece of piano wire would hold both the sliding (front to back) rear body post plate which I made plus the aluminium exhaust pipes. Since this model will need some added weight in the front I fashioned three brass plates plus a couple of .032 wires and soldered them all together to create a rattle pan which can be easily installed (or removed and further tweaked for tuning) to the chassis and which is secured in place by the front body post/screw. After carefully scrubbing the steel wire and the motor with a water and Ajax mix and then sanding/polishing everything I applied/rubbed a little Brasso metal polish to everything. For improved cornering a Dubro #2 steel washer was soldered to the solid front axle thereby allowing one wheel to spin free. As for gearing a test fitting would prove that a Slot.It 6.5mm pinion would mesh adequately with an 18mm Slot.It spur gear. Although the range for this gear set yields potential ratios that are much lower than optimal that is still fine with me. Given the construction of this chassis I can use my pinion puller and press to replace the pinion without unsoldering anything. After some initial track break-in and testing I opted to drill out approximately 2g of material from the rattle pan. Overall weight of this model is now 81.3 grams. I also changed the pinion to a 13 tooth. After placing the rattle pan into the chassis I mounted the body. Before securing the body to the chassis with a pair of 440 brass screws I added a little white glue to the insert threads to help prevent the screws from backing out during a race. I also used DArt number 2 urethane washers to space the body from the chassis. Gluing them in place will save some time down the road too. [If you have sufficient clearance you can also add a urethane spacer under each screw head which will also prevent the screws from backing out.] If your body rolls too much you might need to either remove one or both of the urethane spacers or insert a stop bar. In this case there was no issue with excessive roll. Now this model is ready! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 911 GT2 RS laps Nürburgring in 6:47.3, a NEW RECORD!!! Well, are friends in Zuffenhausen have once again bested the Nordschleife...Watch and enjoy https://youtu.be/Fh8_2zQZ3xM
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 356 Super – #10 – 1952 Carrera Panamericana Decals for the #10 Porsche 356 Super which competed in the 1952 Carrera Panamericana (below) are attached.
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- 6 years ago
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SlotTrak 12.50 12.50 is now the current version and has several bug fixes... a good idea to update your version. http://www.slottrak.com/downloads.html
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- 6 years ago
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Mclaren F1 build on FB This guy started with a wood block. Amazing work! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10213897476021571&set=oa.1457739204247841&type=3&theater&ifg=1
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 6 years ago
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Mercedes 300 SL W194 The 1952 Mercedes 300 SL might be the most beautiful car ever raced anywhere. Thankfully the Germans didn't f*ck this like the rest... Cheers! I am a kid again!!! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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David Piper Sandeman & Castrol GTX Just some of the images I used to make up my Sandeman decals along with some Castrol GTX stripes and logo... attached below in an MSWord file so you can manipulate and change numbers, names, etc. - hopefully you have the same fonts installed... if not I can upload a .pdf file too...
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- 6 years ago
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Alfonso ‘Fon’ de Portago (1928-1957) Sports Cars Illustrated (Aug 1957) Portago Interview (1956) This article is based on the Riverside Record interview. Cheers B
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in: Drivers of the Past
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- 6 years ago
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Cooper Monaco Here's the story of the Cooper Monaco which would be purchased by Shelby, Penske and others for SCCA races: Cooper Monaco
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- 6 years ago
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Carroll Shelby Goes Mid-Engine – The 'King Cobra' Years Here is a great article on the 1963/4 Shelby King Cobra: Carroll Shelby Goes Mid-Engine / The Shelby Cooper King Cobra Years
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- 6 years ago
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R32 I – The Ring – September 6, 2017 R32 I September 6, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="3834"] Results NASCAR (NC) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #48 - DwM – 81 Laps; #3 – KKr – 80; #17 – KKr – 79; #11 – ArT – 78; #7 – ArT – 78; #24 – DwM – 77. TRANS AM (TA) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 80 Laps (9.741 ext.); #1B – KKr – 80 (12.070); #1R – KKr – 79 (10.919); #98 – ArT – 76 (12.673); #35 – DwM – 73 (10.098); #2 – DwM – 72 (12.425). GROUP 5 (G5) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #23 – ArT – 123 Laps (12.222 ext.); #598 – KKr – 117 (8.183); #23 – DwM – 110 (10.801); #51 – MiA – 110 (11.594); LMP/GT (LMP) (240 sec. x 4 x 1 = 12 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #12 – ArT – 124 Laps (12.227 ext.); #009 – KKr – 119 (5.168); #8 – DwM – 117 (9.980); #1 – MiA – 114 (11.512); Cheers! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Ferrari 121LM Scaglietti Spyder Ferrari 121 LM Scaglietti Spyder Gallery: [foogallery id="3612"]Completed in early 1955, chassis 0546LM was originally conceived as a 118 LM. In this guise, it was raced as a works entry at the 1955 Mille Miglia by Paolo Marzotto. Unfortunately, a blown tyre ended the charge early. The car was returned to the factory where it was upgraded to full 121 LM specifications ahead of the entry in the 24 Hours of Le Mans. Finished in French racing colours, it was raced by Maurice Trintignant and Harry Schell. Among the fastest cars in the entry, the big six-cylinder engined Ferrari also proved fragile and 0546LM was forced to retire from the race after ten hours with a blown engine.
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- 6 years ago
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Cars of the Autobahn featured at this year’s Watkin’s Glen Historics Sept 8th Not sure if I'm going yet but would be worth checking out.... http://www.grandprixfestival.com/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Monterey Auction results Lots of beauties in here: http://newatlas.com/monterey-car-week-2017-auction-report/51011/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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2.4h Group C Endurance Race In keeping with both past tradition and our scratch building focus this fall we will incorporate another full day event for a 2.4h Group C 'enduro'. Obviously this will involve either a scratch built chassis OR body (or both) and is not limited to stock components (any components may be used). A marked hand out tire will be provided to those that pre-register before the deadline. Multiple entries will also be encouraged. Stay tuned for more details. Thoughts, comments and suggestions are encouraged at this early stage.
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- 6 years ago
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Gallery Feature Added We've added a new gallery feature. Go to the gallery using the link in either the header or footer menus. The gallery will include pictures from every event to supplement the event reports, plus others. User/contributor galleries (also for original pictures authored by registered users/contributors) may be available soon. Cheers! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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The way it was: Mosport 1967 Team Lotus refueling, 1967 Canadian Grand Prix at Mosport. Much simpler times, a far cry from what we see today!!
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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La Carrera Panamericana Badge The common event badge.
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- 6 years ago
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Harry O’Reilly Schell (1921-1960) A gentleman racer and very good friends with the Marquis de Portago (ring a bell?). See the attached article below but you must be logged in. In this famous picture he is slowing to receive a refreshment during practice prior to the Portuguese Grand Prix. Notice Jo Bonnier parked and looking on...
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- 6 years ago
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Monday, July 31, 2017 (4:30 – 6:30pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis 2 This is a continuation of our first session on completing a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for the Ferrari P4 body/class. We're using a Piranha motor with slot.it gearing, BWA wheels, DArt tires & inserts, and a Fly guide along with a modified Scaley body/interior. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We’ll have pizza and refreshments as usual followed by Ringwood XXI. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 31, 2017 – 4:30 - 6:30pm Where: The Ring [seatt-form event_id=3]
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- 6 years ago
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Jim Clark BBC Documentary Hi lads, hope you're all enjoying the summer...saw this on SCI, hour long BBC video, well worth your time if you have it! https://youtu.be/BINkmyNKPb8 Enjoy! :good:
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in: Drivers of the Past
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- 6 years ago
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2017 Vintage GP at Mosport this weekend Anyone going to Mosport this weekend? If so the F1 Masters series will be there. Looks like about 15 vintage F1 cars from the entry list including Tyrells, Shadows, Lotii etc...don't miss the chance to do some close up research on these amazing cars from all over the world. https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.status/uidEvent/E332951C-A23B-9C37-6E286542DAB5A903#group1-642B4139-C8F7-353B-F108B5ABF23C4C69 Please note I checked the race schedule and the F1 Masters series are only running on Fri and Sat NOT Sunday. http://www.varac.ca/varac/documents/festival/2017/2017%20On%20Track%20Schedule.pdf Hope to see you there! I'll probably be camping between turn 3 and 4 if you want to stop by for a cold beverage. Look for a line of vintage street cars and I'll be near there...or wandering the paddock. Cheers Bill
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in: Other Local Events & Happenings
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'Event Reports' Top Menu Link To make accessing event reports easier I've added an 'Event Reports' link/button to the top menu. This link will take you to a page listing all of the event reports so that you do not miss any.
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Wheel of Misfortune As those already know who participated in the most recent version of Ringwood - Ringwood XX - we now have a hand painted spinning wheel called the Wheel of Misfortune. It has 16 'sections' - every section painted like a racing flag... The purpose of the wheel is to discourage 'offs' or 'crashes' during heats - and it works... Here are the flags with their penalties... Or Download the attachment below to read the explanations for every flag... :good:
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- 6 years ago
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The Green Hell Movie screening this Wed around Toronto If anyone is interested this new doc about the Ring is screening this wed only at various theatres. http://www.torontomovies.ca/movie/ontario/richmond-hill/silvercity-richmond-hill/the-green-hell-legendary-demanding-deadly/125332/ Here's more info https://www.thegreenhellmovie.com/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Interesting approach to auto art using 3D modelling https://www.unique-limited.com/gallery Some of these shots are reminiscent of the tracks we race on and the cars we race.
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 6 years ago
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360 degree POV Camera vehicle A 360 degree camera mounted on a modified Range Rover at MiniGrid. Click on the screen and move your mouse around to change the camera angle! https://youtu.be/QreTCVWgSnY It was my pleasure to be able to drive this rig and I have to say the results are great. 360 a whole new way to think about camera's on slot cars, among other things. And the final version of the vehicle looks great too. Something right out of what a real Hollywood crane truck looks like! We did experiment with different speeds with the camera vehicle and found that running it at about 75% or so gave the best picture. Not too slow to put you to sleep, and not too fast to make you nauseous. Lap times were about equivalent to Cartrix cars with BWA motors.
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in: Slot Related Curiosities, Oddities & One of a Kind
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- 6 years ago
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1969 CANAM Mosport – McLaren M12 #98 (George Eaton) George Eaton bought and raced a customer McLaren M12 throughout the 1969 CANAM season as #98. Here he is at Mosport: He never did win a race in any discipline during his career but he nevertheless remains a Canadian racing legend. DArthobbies has an M12 lightweight body kit for those of you that wish to model what he raced in 1969. He would later race for BRM and the iconic Castrol livery in CANAM... that is likely how most of you recognize him. :scratch:
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- 6 years ago
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1955 Le Mans Jaguar D Type #10 (Ecurie Francorchamps – Claes/Swaters) Entered in the S 5.0 class by the Belgian team Ecurie Francorchamp this Jaguar D Type driven by none other than team owner Jacques Swaters and Johnny Claes finished third overall and second in class in the 1955 Le Mans. I believe Claes is wearing the white helmet and Swaters a brown/dark coloured lid...
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- 6 years ago
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La Carrera Panamericana V & IV Blank Plates For those of you building Carrera Panamericana entries that need plates I found and cleaned up these .jpg images... :wacko:
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- 7 years ago
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Upcoming Changes – Domain Name Change and New Format Upcoming Changes – Domain Name Change and New Format With the beginning of May approaching and the commencement of the scratch32 summer racing schedule the timing couldn’t be more perfect to initiate change regarding the r32 website. The existing format and layout are just too restrictive to satisfy scratch32 goals. So later this week and over this coming weekend I will be making several changes. All articles, photographs and forum resources will remain available and easily accessible by everyone after this weekend – but the emphasis of non-forum related material will shift exclusively to scratch32. - Cheers! - Art
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- 7 years ago
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Chris Brigg's Torsion Bar Chassis Article By request here is a link to a very good article on building a torsion chassis: http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id22.html If you believe it is useful better make a hardcopy for yourself to keep... Cheers!
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- 7 years ago
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Revs Insiture 1954 Lincoln Capri Also ran in the Panamericana
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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Revs Insitute 1953 Porsche 550 Coupe Ran in the Panamericana
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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New Scaley DP OMG .... I have to applaud, maybe even give a standing ovation, to Scaley for the new Ford DP, now in stores in the Ganassi livery. As much as I liked the 1:1 cars, I wasn't intending to buy one in 1:32. But when picking up my Javelin at Mini Grid, I stared a little too long at the DP and picked it up too. The rear wheel detail was what did it! But boy am I glad I did. Not only does the car look great, but it runs great too! Out of the box, and only with a set of Super Tire 1404's mounted on the rear wheels which are now the standard size, the car was awesome. With the magnet, and weighing in at a remarkably light 109 grams of downforce, the car whipped around MG's Scaley track like it was on rails and got down into the 6.8's. That's an unheard of time for a stock Scaley. With the magnet out, and no weight added, it handled beautifully and ran easy 8.1's, with a few laps in the 8.0's and one in the high 7.9's. That's almost stock Slot.it Group C territory! With a Slot.it orange motor in I can only imagine how good it will be. This car should easily run with the Racer DP's with perhaps only a motor change. Who knows what motor, weight, and Slot.it running gear will do to it! (I like the rear wheels so much though I'd try to leave them!) Part of the performance has to do with weight. The car only weighs 75 grams! One area of possible concern; when I took the magnet out it looks like it might be advisable to do some chassis stiffening around that area. But overall, I am might impressed. Well done! One question though ... the motor has a green end bell. Does anyone know if that's a different rpm from previous motors, or just a new colour end bell with the same innards?
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in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff
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- 7 years ago
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Ringwood XVIV Gents, Cheers! :good:
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- 7 years ago
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Internationale Meisterschaft im Ring II – Das Goldene Zeitalter Various team transporters are beginning their long journey to The Ring for the IMiR II this Saturday morning... Rumours abound that team Chaparral will finally debut their 2J... what will other teams roll out from their transporters? In 30 hours we will know... B-)
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- 7 years ago
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Livery – Honda RA 273 With the anticipated appearance of more Honda RA 273s I've added more numbers to the decal sheet provided with the Darthobbies body kit...
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- 7 years ago
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Broadcasting at The Ring Herr Stroebl makes sure that The Ring does not get left behind by installing a vast state of the art broadcast network in the paddock... :yahoo:
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- 7 years ago
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Control Tower Details – Air Cooling at The Ring In anticipation of rising temperatures due to global warming Herr Stroebl installed a state of the art air cooling system in the control tower. Now trackside officials can stay cool indoors... :yahoo:
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- 7 years ago
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1966 Targa Florio Video Slide Show A wonderful slideshow from a participant of the Targa - this is the first of many from the same individual covering the years up to the early 1970's... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rb0oMBojZY&sns=em :good:
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- 7 years ago
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Michelin Man trackside piece Hi gang, for your pleasure...Michelin man figure 'flipped', I'd suggest printing on 'card stock', cut out, make a 2 sided signage, do as you please...
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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- 7 years ago
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Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite 1968 Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite PQ. 1968 Rolling to the start line. What a front row!! :yahoo: Right Jack?? :scratch: It might be just the angle, but it sure looks like the rear wing dihedral has changed under load??? :unsure: Apparently someone had a sense of humor?? :wacko:
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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Canadian GP Mosport – September, 1961 From September 1961: Before becoming a Formula one race it was a race for sports racers. Olivier Gendebien in a Lotus 19. Retired with transmission problems. Stirling Moss in another Lotus 19. Finished 3rd. Nice colour?? :wacko:
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 7 years ago
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Strombecker Body Shell Kit – Strombecker Shell Instructions – Porsche RS 61 Here are both pages from this Strombecker Raceways Kit...
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- 7 years ago
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Porsche 804 Grand Prix This is another class eligible (60GP) or VRAA body kit - a Porsche 804 that raced in 1962. In the usual silver livery it is a pleasant alternative to the green, red, blue and yellow entries in this class and a car that everyone should have in their 1960's Grand Prix stable. I've decided to make two versions, one using the existing original car/driver detail and another which will be modified to include enhanced details, including added cockpit/driver detail, wire roll bar & aluminium exhaust detail (mirrors, wire roll bar and exhaust pipes are included in the DArt kit). This version is utilizing the original details but for the added mirrors. This vintage representation of the 804 is quite nice despite the fact that the nose is more 'bulbous' (sp?) than the original to accommodate a guide/front axle... other slot car manufacturers have struggled with this problem too with various levels of success. As with any 1/32nd model made to perform on track compromise with the silhouette of a car is unavoidable. I chose to go with a livery of the #30 car (driven by Gurney) with the only victory for Porsche in the French GP. I exchanged the kit head (which is very nice and should be used for Bonnier (or others)) with the Gurney head from Scaley releases. The driver shoulder and arm detail along with the fan & transmission and exhaust details are not bad on the original model. Of course I am talking about the original Scaley release of this model from the 60's... The windscreen is nice too, although a touch large but for a model to be raced that is just fine... First I removed any flashing on the body and windscreen using a fine x-acto knife. The original finish of the body in this kit is good, not perfect, since the original model/material was quite rough in areas and required a tonne of work, but just a little more sanding of the kit body will remove any remaining blemishes (and should be done for any body you plan to paint). Regardless, the material is easily sanded. I also test fitted the windscreen to ensure a nice fit. I trimmed the body post and drilled a hole for the mounting screw I planned to use - I may sleeve this with a piece of styrene tubing down the road depending on the abuse this car will take. Although I would still use the original roll bar and exhaust detail that doesn't mean I can't improve it a little - so I drilled small holes into both exhaust pipes and drilled out the solid roll bar detail. I decided to leave the air intake covers alone and not hollow them out since that would take a lot of work and the probability of screwing that up was way too high. Instead I planned to cut out the 'openings' from a dark coloured tent repair nylon 'adhesive' and fix that sticker in place, as I've done on other projects. In the end the result will look just like a dark grill is covering each opening. Just be sure to cut the nylon patch adhesive using a very sharp blade (for longer narrow strips I use a box cutter blade and after positioning it flat along the edge to be cut just tap it with a hobby hammer to make a clean cut - don't waste your time cutting it by dragging your blade along a straight edge...) After washing the pieces to be painted and letting them dry I primed them all using rattle can Tamiya Fine White Primer. Then the whole body was painted with Tamiya TS-30 (Silver Leaf) and given two coats. At this point I decided to paint the nose of the windscreen silver to match the body so it was masked using Tamiya Masking Tape and sprayed as well. Standard Revell-Monogram black number decals were added using Micro Set/Sol. For the more detailed model I will airbrush the numbers instead... I finally painted a 'suggestion' of a Porsche logo on the nose... I then decided to try something different - an acrylic spray for the finish - I used a can of Krylon Crystal Clear (41303) and gave the body two heavy coats. I have to say I am very happy with the gloss/finish using this stuff since I didn't sand anything I sprayed. It did take a considerable amount of time to dry, not unlike Tamiya clear however. But patience is of course a virtue here. I hand painted the transmission & exhaust details, roll bar, driver's chest/arms/hands & steering wheel - didn't need primer - used Tamiya acrylics... some flat, some gloss depending on what I was painting. I also hand painted the driver's head and mirrors. I used Citadel Mithril Silver (it closely matches the Tamiya silver paint) on the whole mirror and a darker grey on the mirror lenses since I like the effect it creates. I dropped in some Future floor polish into each goggle lens and used a strip of a dark coloured nylon tent repair adhesive for a goggle strap. There was no need for seat belts so none were made from tent repair... After everything was finally cured I drilled two fine holes for each mirror and tested for fit. I glued the driver's head into place with Amazing GOOP (clear). I glued the windscreen into place using Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy. Rather than running a thin bead of epoxy along the bottom of the windscreen I simply applied the epoxy into each of the four mounting pin holes using a toothpick. This ensured a nice clean bond. As for the mirrors, since they were being mounted into the body and not the windscreen I opted to use a pin to apply a tiny amount of Gorilla Super Glue into each hole before pressing each mirror into place. I wasn't worried about fogging so Super Glue was fine to use... The front edge of the windscreen that was painted silver in my opinion needed something else to clean up the look where it touched the body (the unpainted sides gave a nice clean edge and didn't need anything else). Since this is something that is easy to botch up if you try painting directly, I opted to brush on the same silver paint I used on the mirrors onto a very thin strip of nylon tent repair adhesive. I trimmed to fit and then applied along the leading edge of the windscreen that was painted silver too. I was tempted to add more detail to this car but decided against doing so. In my opinion it looks fine as it is. The complete painted body as is weighs in at 11.2 grams. A fun project - time to get to work on the chassis now...
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- 7 years ago
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Historical On-Board Filming I suppose this is one way to do it... :good:
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December 5, 2016 – The Ring 1950's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1950's Grand Prix Results: Art - 70 Laps (13.916 ext.) DoS - 69 (11.688) BiG - 67 (9.704) JmO - 66 (11.909) MiA - 66 (16.241) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results: Art - 76 Laps (8.466 ext.) BiG - 75 (11.080) JmO - 72 (8.738) MiA - 69 (9.647) DoS - 57 (12.580) 1970's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results: Art - 86 Laps (11.613 ext.) BiG - 83 (12.615) MiA - 79 (14.874) Jim O. - 78 (9.079) Cheers to everyone who was able to participate! Some very good and extremely gentlemanly racing! :good:
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- 7 years ago
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SlotTrak 12.44 SlotTrak has updated its software to 12.44... They mention that this update takes care of several bugs, one which sounds like it might deal with that repeating button press which some of you are experiencing in between heats...
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- 7 years ago
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November 2, 2016 – The Circuit Euro Trucks (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) ET Results 1. John B. - 92 Laps (8.470 ext.) 2. Art - 90 (6.476) 3. Jim M. - 89 (9.290) 4. Jim O. - 83 (20.110) 1950's Grand Prix (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 50GP Results 1. Art - 97 Laps (15.511 ext.) 2. John B. - 95 (7.793) 3. Jim O. - 93 (11.848) 4. Jim M. - 92 (21.656) F1 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) F1 Results 1. John B. - 108 Laps (14.306 ext.) 2. Art - 106 (8.787) 3. Jim M. - 105 (15.249) 4. Jim O. - 96 (16.708) 3.0L LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 3LM Results 1. Art - 111 Laps (8.427 ext.) 2. Jim M. - 110 (5.393) 3. John B. - 110 (14.193) 4. Jim O. - 106 (12.039) Cheers to John and both Jimmys for making it out to race! See everyone next week.
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- 7 years ago
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VW Track Maintenance Van Not a scratch built model but the body of this VW White/Blue Camper Van was modified into a Track Maintenance vehicle enough so to warrant sharing in the forum. The original Scaley VW Van was previously modified to enhance performance by replacing the tires, wheels, axles, motor, pinion and braid. I used a BWA 9 tooth pinion on a BWMS050 motor with the original crown gear fixed to a new rear axle spinning through bearings. Wheels front and back were BW13-200-093-375 with 375LOT4WOB inserts capped with DART half moons. RM0201 tires finished the look. 7 grams of weight were added to the front of the plastic chassis and body float created for better handling. But the white/royal blue camper was of no use, so it sat on the shelf until now. This past Saturday we ran the IPS proxy and later that afternoon I decided to get off couch and complete this project. If you watched the Blue Jay game Saturday afternoon then you had enough time to do what I did below to turn this pleasure camper into a daily track workhorse. I removed the body from the chassis and disassembled the entire body and its components. The front and rear bumpers are separate pieces so they came off when the body was removed. Using dishwashing liquid I washed the pieces that were going to get sprayed: front and rear bumpers, main body, roof, split window front windscreen area and rear windows. I wanted to use Tamiya liquid surface grey primer mixed with a little Tamiya metallic blue (X-13) and diluted with paint thinner for the air brush. This gives the otherwise grey primer a light blue tint with a very faint metallic fleck - a theme to be carried over to other track vehicles in the future. I also wanted to glaze all of the rear windows using Tamiya TS-80, a flat clear spray on both the inside and outside of the windows to keep away any shine and make them almost opaque. After airbrushing the bumpers and entire body pieces everything dried for a half hour or so. I brushed on Tamiya XF-53, neutral grey, on the front and rear seats but left the dashboard, doors and floor the same colour as the body. The dashboard, steering wheel and 'stiff' driver were left as is since I didn't want to make this a whole day project. While the body pieces were drying I soldered together a working trailer hitch which I fixed to the rear of the plastic chassis. This was just buffed and not painted. I plan to make several trailers including a victory podium trailer... stay tuned for them... but that's for a NASCAR afternoon... I also hand painted the front split window edging with the same colour and then highlighted the window detail with some silver paint. This part was a pain in the ass and took nearly an inning. I also highlighted hinges and door handles with the same silver paint (the pictures do not capture this adequately). Since these areas are so fine if you do get some paint bleeding onto the window portion you can simply take a toothpick and rub away the paint using the pointed end of the toothpick after the paint has dried... this trick doesn't work on any painted surface though. After the paint was dry I made two pylon holders for each of the rear quarters of the body using .032 wire. These I didn't paint and simply drilled mounting holes and glued them into place. DArt Urethane Pylons were pushed onto these wires to complete each side. I then soldered together a small roof fence using .032 wire and buffed it. Again, I wasn't going to paint this either. This took another inning. I drilled oversized holes for the six posts. Finally it was time to reassemble and glue everything else together. Loose tires were added to the roof tray but not glued in place. The tray is also large enough to accommodate three straw bales... I contemplated adding graphics or lettering in white to the body but in the end opted not to, a choice I am glad I stuck with. I can always do so later on if I change my mind. I also have yet to add a rack with shovels and brooms to this van but there's always tomorrow...
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- 7 years ago
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Decal Sheet Punches Local Dollarama's now have a very small 3/8" roundel punch... just the size I was looking for... perhaps the most popular diameter for 1/32 scale vintage Grand Prix/sports cars... now all you need to do is print your number on white decal paper and punch it out... but you'll need to clear coat it beforehand...
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