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70 TA Camaro colour change I have a blue Z28 Camaro for stock TA class. There are several of the exact same colour and number. It was time to create Ken's red zed. It took 2-coats of paint over 2-days to cover the dark blue. I could not avoid orange-peel on the roof. More paint would have created runs and the rest of the car was too nice to ruin. I'll try buffing the roof.
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 4 years ago
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Watkins Glen Historic 2019 Howard Cohen's Picture Gallery Hey guys I went to this event on the weekend and it was fantastic. Howard of Group 25 took many photos which are great reference for model/scratch builds. https://public.fotki.com/HowardCohen/watkins-glen-histor/ Cheers! Bill
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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404 Galleries Error One of our updates broke the links to our model and event galleries which I now hope are fixed... :good:
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in: Website Information
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- 4 years ago
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Who let the cats out? I stumbled into 3-white Scalextric 1967 Cougars. One of the possible plans was to make IROC cars using BWNC1's. I can use the stock 18k motors elsewhere. But the gearing was eluding me so the project went back on the shelf. JMSracer helped me figure out how to gear these properly. The plan is once again in motion. Thanks JMSracer! The colours are: Fiery-tangerine, chrome yellow, and candly lime green. The tangerine Cougar was painted before the IROC idea was thought of. It was painted by Marty at Group-25 when he showed me how to paint. It was the snow-flake that started the avalanche. Thanks Marty! They all have working head/tail lights. An extention of night-racing? Time will tell.
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 4 years ago
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Indianapolis 500 Event With the upcoming Group 25 show now is a good time to give some notice and canvass interest for this variant of open wheel racing - like Ringwood and The Coppa - we can start with one class - the iconic front engine models from the '50's and '60's... and perhaps establish other classes covering earlier/later years or configurations depending on interest - actual liveries raced only (but number may be changed) and motor must be in a front motor configuration... motor will likely be restricted to either a BWNC1 or a BWMS050 unless there is interest in an unlimited motor designation... ...please give us your thoughts and suggestions either in person (preferred) or online here.
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Drive shaft removal made easy With the possibility of front motor classes in the future. I took the time to figure out how to remove them without damaging the spring. I have a Monogram, and Scalex motor/drive to experiment with. I started out with a drop of oil on the end of the spring I wanted to remove. I used a drill to hold the back of the Monogram motor shaft (had to remove the bell because the shaft was cut). Then took light duty, tapered pliers with no teeth. Slipped the pliers onto the motor side of the spring until it locked. I started the drill in reverse and the spring backed off and fell to the work bench in under 2-seconds. It only took 2-fingers of pressure. The drive shaft came off with no damage or distortion to the spring. And no damage to the motor shaft. So now I have a long style drive shaft ready for a future build. But I had to throw away the Monogram motor (no great loss). Next is the Scalex motor and drive shaft out of the Maserati 250F. It would be nice to save both the drive shaft and new motor for 2-other cars. Luckily the Scalex motor had enough motor shaft for the drill chuck. After a drop of oil and a quick twist of the drill. It too fell to the work bench in a flash. Resistance is futile. ;-) I believe the smooth surface of the small hobby pliers helped prevent damage. They did the job perfectly. The right tool for the right job is almost priceless. I now have 2-different lengths of drive shafts for front motor drive, and a new 18k Scalex motor in my parts inventory. :yahoo: Thank you very kindly, Ken
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in: How To – Build It
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- 4 years ago
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Maserati 250F (Scalex body) There is a Shelby #5 car in the database already. So in an attempt to be different, I grabbed a can of Tamiya Coral Blue not knowing how the car would look. Without the details, it looks a bit scary. Over the top blue. The rest of the car made all the difference. Art's suggestion of white roundels really made the numbers and colour pop.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Auto Union Type C Decal Set For those of you looking for a complete set of Auto Union Type C decals here is a .jpg image you can print yourself...
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- 4 years ago
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Belgian GP Spa 1955 Hello lads, for your enjoyment...If you have 30 minutes to kill, watch this. When Spa was 9 miles long, and the GP was 36 laps, a true test of Man and Machine!! Fangio, Moss, Castellotti,Farina, Behra, Frere, Hawthorne providing the thrills. Spectators were sooooo close. Enjoy! https://bringatrailer.com/2019/07/06/bat-video-inspiration-1955-belgian-gp-at-spa-francorchamps/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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2019 Toronto Indy anyone going? I'm going to head down to Free (donation) Friday. Not sure about the rest of the weekend. I have no idea what's going on in Indycar this year since they took it off regular sportsnet and put it on some pay rugby channel. Someone at Rogers/Indycar has head in ass disease. Anyone else going?
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in: Other Local Events & Happenings
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Scalextric 1963 Lotus F1 They are finally catching up with us. Anyone see this yet? https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/lotus-25-jim-clark-monza-1963-first-world-championship.html?utm_campaign=2411700_Scalextric%20-%20TMA%20-%20June%202019&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Hornby%20PLC&utm_content=Sunset%20Speedway%20Set&_%24ja=tsid%3A71284&dm_i=2DJZ,1FOVO,230QQY,4S6UC,1 Hopefully they make more F1 cars from this era and not just 1. Too bad it is a body that we already have pretty much covered with the Monogram and repop versions.
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in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff
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- 4 years ago
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1963 Rover BRM (1969 Aurora dual purpose kit) I met a guy at the Torcan model show. He said he had a rare 1/32 dual purpose kit that came with parts to be static, or a slot car. He said it was a Rover BRM. I never heard of it, but I like my BRM 578. So my interested was peaked. The real car has a turbine engine! Nuts! The kit is at least 50-years old. Aurora Plastics was sold in 1969. Then again in 1971. The company was parted out in 1977. This is what came in the box. Besides missing the instructions, it's also missing one headlight from what I can tell. The chome roll bar, inserts, steering wheel, and tail light bezels all sparkle nicely. Some kits are so far from the real car that they are an insult to the manufacturer. This model may actually look a bit more sleek compared to the real car. I'm not complaining about this one in the least. It looks cool to me.
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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2019 Mosport Vintage race June 14-16 If anyone is interested this weekend is the annual vintage race at Mosport. https://canadiantiremotorsportpark.com/pages/canadian-historic-grand-prix Featured marque is Volvo. Doesn't look like as big an event as in recent years but still worth checking out if you've never been. If I can track down an entry list I will post it.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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Collector's Studio in Yorkville Yesterday I went to the Collector's Studio in Yorkville and they have some amazing F1 and sportscar memorabilia there. Race worn helmets, F1 trophies, car body panels, paintings, high end die cast etc. It's like a museum! If you're ever in the Avenue Rd. & Bloor area it is worth checking out! Prices are pretty high but just to see the stuff in one place is a treat! http://collectorstudio.com/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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F1 Masters series at Tremblant July 12th-14th I went to this a few years back and it was pretty good. They had less turnout than usual that year because of other competing events but maybe this year will be better. http://www.mastershistoricracing.com/historic-formula-1-usa/championship/ Not sure if I can go yet but it does coincidentally coincide with the start of my holiday week so who knows? Too bad there is no camping at the track though. Waking up to the sounds of race engines is like nothing else. It is also a great historic track that maintains most of it's original features.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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D'Art Lotus 30 My enthusiasm to build this kit was off the charts. The real Lotus 30 was a terrible car with respect to handling. This is an opportunity to hopefully make it better on a much smaller scale. The real car had chassis flex issues. This chassis does not have those same problems. I had to shorten the top of the front bearing supports because the body sits very low. You can see the 180 grit sanding marks on the inside of the chassis so the epoxy will adhere to the aluminum and motor a bit better. The chassis started out as an inline S-can. That was a huge mistake on such a low car. I should have planned it out better. I hope I never make that mistake again. I had to make a big hole in the body to fit the motor. The colour is Tamiya "Candy Lime Green". Upon assembling the body to the chassis I realized this was indeed a huge mistake. My lack of experience is getting the better of me. Time to take it apart and try something else. I was thinking that I may have already ruined the body. :negative:
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Alfa Romeo Fangio drives 159 Alfetta at 74 years (1985 Laguna Seca) We haven't had an Alfa video in a while. So........... Phil Hill and Juan Manuel Fangio drive the Tipo 159 F1 winning car from 1951 at the 1985 Monterey Historic Races at Laguna Seca which had Alfa Romeo as the featured marque. Lots of other Alfa's too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlKir_WYcck
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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Larry's Opel GT Hello fellow racers. Larry has been having some ipad troubles posting pics to start his Opel GT build thread. I offered to get the ball rolling for his first build. He built it for, and raced it at the last Targa Florio. The following are quotes from Larry. So to start I researched as many angles of the car as I could. I sanded down the fender well lip so the fender was flatter so my flare would sit flatter at the back to the body when glued. I stuck painters tape to the fenders and traced where the door jam was, where the front bumper came around the side and the outline of the fender itself. Next I glued three pieces of styrene together for each fender. Stuck the tape to the blank and cut it out. Didn’t cut out the wheel opening yet to keep it stable. Sanding and body putty, lastly I cut out the wheel opening to fit the wheels. And then this happened! Way to go Larry! (Those were Ken's words) Please direct your questions and positive comments to Larry for his fine build. :good: Thank you.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Posting your raced model photos elsewhere made easy… As they say - a picture is worth a thousand words... to include any recent photograph of your model which exists anywhere on our website all you need to do (if you use Chrome) is to right click on the picture you wish to use (from our website) and select 'copy image address' - then just paste it into your post - the picture should appear as it does where you right clicked originally... :good:
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- 4 years ago
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D'Art Ferrari 312P The first time I laid eyes on Art's Ferrari 312P my brain said "I want that!". Based on using 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I started to rough out a chassis for bearings. Wasn't sure how to attach the body.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Livery – Carrera Panamericana I – 1950 – #56 1949 Ford (Nieders MEX/Diener MEX) Here's my best guess at the livery for this car based on hours of research - I've got some extra numbers, the plates, etc. If you wish to modify the original MSWord files I'd be happy to email them to you - they are just too big to post on a website... Cheers :good:
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SCC Canada Decals #$@!ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Hello lads, had to re-number a car for pending event, had purchased SCC 'White' numerals, first time using the product, OMFG, I'm sure some within the GTA heard some unsavory language last evening... Took 14 of them to successfully transfer 3!!! They kept disintegrating, separating, no matter duration of time in water nor temperature. Curious as to whether anyone else has used (tried to)? If so, any success, what's your secret? :negative: :negative:
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in: Decals
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- 4 years ago
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1964 Road America Hello gents, thought you might enjoy some classic(read grainy) footage from Elkhart Lake Wisconsin, otherwise known as Road America. 500 mile test, some of the BEST racers, Hall/Penske/Shelby/Miles, and their might machines; Chaparral (dis you know it had an Automatic tranny?) 250LM, Cobra's, Genie, Lola, Vettes, smorgasbord of POWER 3 part video, link below. Great hot lap/tour on 1st segment with Penske and his lightweight Vette and pretty cool racing. https://bringatrailer.com/2019/05/18/video-inspiration-1964-road-america-500-parts-2-3/ Enjoy!
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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Calendar, Database & Model Galleries Updated Gents, Our Scratch32 calendar is now updated for the summer season - one new event may be in order in August yet but plenty of time to sort that out. I've updated our model database and it is now up to 134... with several still missing - models which may have been raced but which never had a form submitted are not included. Also, some forms were submitted but the models never showed or raced - so those forms were deleted - please submit a new form when you register any new model in any event - don't rely on a past submission... our gallery is also almost updated completely - stay tuned...
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Lotus 49 1st race out A good video on the Lotus 49's first race. With shades of Grand Prix cinematography. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6cm3eWEHM0
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Motor Testing Many of you have already seen this I'm sure, but for those who haven't and are interested, and as it came up in conversation recently, a link to Bob Livingston's excellent article on motor testing. Scroll down through it and you get a good explanation of setup and how he tested RPM and Torque, and how torque was tested at lower voltages and then given an appropriate multiplying factor. This seemed to be an acceptable practice. If not entirely accurate, results with the same equipment and methodology should at least be relatively accurate. Setup's are relatively easy to duplicate should you be interested in doing it yourself. http://slotcarnews.blogspot.com/2007/02/slot-car-news-motor-list.html If anyone is further interested I could see if I could find the manufacturers graphs showing the same thing wrt torque.
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in: Slot Car Resources
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- 5 years ago
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Replacement LED GU10 Bulbs Not necessarily a workbench essential but a race room lighting essential... Those of us who have race rooms using GU10 halogen bulbs whether recessed or on tracks who are looking for an energy saving, warm glow and compatible dimmable LED alternative when replacing existing 50w halogen bulbs should try the Philips 4.5w LED Soft White Light Dimmable Flood GU10 bulbs. They are 380 Lumens and behave the same as original halogen bulbs throughout the dimming range - much to my surprise - so much so that you will not notice any difference in light quality if you use them to replace blown bulbs here and there as they go like I am doing... Available at Home Depot they are just under $17 for a three pack... and they will probably outlast me... The Home Depot Article/Product Number/SKU (in case you wish to order online) is: 1001065206 with the following description: LED 50W GU10 Soft White WG GLS 3Pk
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- 5 years ago
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1973 Targa Practice Imagine these things coming towards you in traffic!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgvM_OLb9cs
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Heritage con 2019 Anyone interested in picking up a plastic model or attending a seminar on weathering models might be interested in Heritagecon 2019 this Sunday at Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum in Hamilton. A large show with lots of vendors and you get to see the planes too!! :good: link below http://www.heritagecon.com/index.html
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in: Other Local Events & Happenings
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- 5 years ago
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Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Interesting finds at the Slot Car show yesterday I'm looking at car kits in a different way now that I'm considering converting these into slot-cars. I will try and avoid the really narrow or heavy ones from now on. Not sure wich one of these will eventually make the grade and move up to the build table. You can't make everything. Can you? :wacko: 1965 Barracuda - lightweight resin body = 14g. Track width: Rear = 52mm. Front = 50mm. 1968 GTO - body weight 21g. Track width: R = 56mm. F = 55mm 1961 E-type Jaguar - body weight = 9g. Track width: R = 46mm. F = 47mm 1963 Studebaker Avanti - body weight = 12g. Track width: R = 49mm. F = 48mm.
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 5 years ago
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1963 Honda T360 Pick Up 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up This low cost ARII Owner's Club model kit found its way to my hobby bench and was adapted/upgraded into a 'low power' track utility vehicle for The Ring. Background on the box reads: Honda was established in 1948, and since then, it kept introducing a lot of famous motor bikes. The model "Honda T360" was the first car that Honda produced. It was called "Sport Truck" rather than "Light Truck". It was mounted with a 354 cc, 4-carb HOHC engine, and could make the maximum 30 hp. Two months later, "Honda Sport 500" was marketed. It is tiny (but tall): body measures approx. 92mm x 40mm; front and rear track of 39mm; wheelbase of approx. 63mm with guide post set approx. 66mm from rear axle; and weighs approx. 61.2mm (complete). I kept it cheap by using a DArt guide, BWMS050 motor, 8T BWA pinion, scavenged Scalextric 28T crown gear, piano wire for axles and 1/8" brass tubing in place of bushings. In its finished form it is smooth and quiet but for my taste would still benefit with a 10T pinion - which it may get yet - time will tell... Since pictures are 'worth a 1000 words' here are some pictures of this build. You will note I first planned to use styrene clamps to fix the rear of the body to the rear axle sleeves but bailed on that plan for a more reliable method. A rear frame made from piano wire covered by tissue paper soaked in a solution of H2O and white glue (as suggested by f1nutz) plus DArt fog lamps were later added to this model. Several parts were extensively modified as the pictures indicate. I used navy blue tent repair tape to cover the sides of exposed motor and some scrap patio umbrella fabric (painted with a dark wash) courtesy of Porsche911 as mud flaps to cover the crown gear. [foogallery id="10642"] It is fun building something that isn't meant to race... Cheers!
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Something for the Pre-War class… Interesting to see what this fetches...and what a GREAT exhaust note!! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1937-alvis-speed-25/
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in: Historical 1:1
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1968 Trans Am ‘Cinderella story’ video Hello Scratchers (Hmmm, does that sound right) :yahoo: Pretty cool video, 1968 Trans Am Javelin. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/yDJ6BhUrsak
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in: Historical 1:1
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1969 CANAM Piper Ferrari 612 (No. 43) This period fantasy livery uses a DArt body kit and will have a scratch built chassis underneath mounted using one screw/body post behind the front axle and two clips for wire uprights just behind the molded tailpipe shell detail. Who better a pilot to place in this unreliable rocket than the other Polish Prince (not Marek) - Tony Adamowicz! After applying a dark green base coat and fixing the mounting post/clips we were ready for the next step - decals. 29 of the 34 decals used were printed using my standard inkjet printer and coated with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (as I do with all of the decals I make). Regarding the five store bought decals used – three were rectangular Monogram white blank number plates with a black pinstripe border and two were Pattos Ferrari badge decals – in hindsight I was disappointed with both the opacity and misaligned pin stripe on the white blank Monogram number plates (but it gives the model character) and should have just printed my own along with the Pattos Ferrari badges since I am really not a fan of their low resolution. Nevertheless the project turned out just fine. The decals will be left to dry for a few days and after some cleaning up the body will be ready for two clear coats (yet to be determined), then some detail painting and a dark wash. I haven’t decided if I want to paint or decal the spoiler orange yet… no rush… ...stay tuned!
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Event Pictures Gents, From this point forward, pictures for all entries presented for events will be taken prior to the start. Additional pictures may be taken at the conclusion of the event, but this will be the exception.
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Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.
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Group-25 Model Car Builders meeting invitation Group-25 has extented an invitation to the S32/R32 slot car club to join them for an afternoon of model and slot car building show & tell. We can share our skills with each other about building, painting, detailing, etc... These are the guys hosting the Slot Car and Model show in March. Please bring some of your cool stuff to show. There will be a track or two set up for some beater cars that can afford to break. Don't expect to run your nice cars there. The track is merely for newbie entertainment and to get people interested in slot cars. That's our goal too. Just as an example. DB can show off his green Ford Tudor he just brought to the Carrera Panamericana. The wiper blade marks on the windshield and general weathering are cool and inspirational. We can learn from these guys too. Some of the Group-25 members are master-builders. Check out some of the pics on their site from previous meetings. https://www.group25.org/meetings.htm The date - Feb 9th. The time - 3pm until 7pm. Location - Armour Heights Community Center on the southwest corner of Avenue road and Wilson avenue. Take Avenue Road exit and head south of the 401 to the first light. Here is a photo of the cool stuff various members gave to me for free to make into slot cars. Nice bunch of people. The file and brush are Christmas gifts from Cindy and Marty at Toys4Everyone. Everyone in the club got them. I hope a few can join us for a day of fun. Thank you. Ken
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in: Other Local Events & Happenings
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Lotus 30 – Why It Failed – Article "Sometimes there are good grounds for saying "it'll never work". To paraphrase the famous Richie Ginther quip, the Lotus 30 was a 40 with 10 fewer mistakes. But still too many to make it anything better than occasionally successful, even in the hands of Jim Clark. Ever the loyal Lotus professional, Clark did what he could with the car but, like everyone else who drove the 30, he disliked it, and it sometimes got away even from him. Designed to compete in 'big-banger' racing against Lola and McLaren, the 30 sold quite well in 1964 — 21 were built — but quickly earned a reputation for evil handling. An improved Series 2 version was prepared for 1965, but only 12 of them were made. Although the 30's modified 4.7-litre 350bhp Ford Fairlane V8 was inferior to the Chevy opposition, that was the least of its problems. One person who foresaw the car's failure was Lotus's own Len Terry, but his concerns were largely ignored. "Colin Chapman gave me the scheme and asked for my comments," recalls Terry. "I studied it for two days and by the end I'd produced a critique covering two foolscap pages. Of all that I considered wrong with the car, the only thing he agreed to change was boxing in the rear chassis members. That was it. He was not prepared to change anything else. That's when I told him somebody else would have to draw the car because I didn't want my name attached to it." To read the article view the attached .pdf which can be found below these images.
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Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use.
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- 5 years ago
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$100000+ VW… Well not really, it's a "Frankfurt FLyer", and a Beauty!!! If only I'd married rich! Hmmm, I think my wife says the same thing!! :heart: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/runge-frankfurt-flyer-008/
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 5 years ago
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1950 Carrera Panamericana Video Here's a short video from the first Carrera Panamericana narrated by driver Jack McAfee and filmed (mostly in car from the front seat) by his co-pilot Ford Robinson - they went on to finish 10th in the race. https://youtu.be/sXk1jQU7Kxg
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- 5 years ago
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La Carrera Panamericana Blank Plates (1950) Found this recently - here's a blank plate for the 1950 Carrera - just add your number and print the decal on white decal paper:
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- 5 years ago
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Super Macro as a building tool I remember finishing my first car and being all proud of it. Then I took a bunch of pictures. After examining the photos I thought "Is this the car I just built? Look at all the flaws!!! The build threads I posted have all been an eye opener from what the naked eye can see, and what the camera can see. I make it a habit now to take many more pictures of my builds than I post. I do it now just to catch details my eye did not detect. It helps keep my building standards a bit higher. Ken
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 5 years ago
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1/35 pedestrian bridge I saw this at Hornet Hobbies. It's only good for someone that has a track. It's listed at $75.00, but everything has to go by this Sunday. I have a feeling that a cash offer may lower the price dramatically on Sunday. Footprint is listed on the box. Ken
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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- 5 years ago
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Copper Tape Repair Across Power Taps – Courtesy KK Quoted From KK to others in SOS: I stumbled upon this little repair trick I thought I’d share with all the copper tape track owners I know out there. I have had a few issues with the tape tearing up where the power taps were installed recently and they can be difficult to re-solder once torn. I recently purchased some copper foil shielding tape for my guitars and it comes with “conductive adhesive” on the back. I used the 2” roll and cut 6 - 3/8” strips x 2” and placed them across the power tap locations Sunday afternoon. This tape is far thinner than the original tape I used and so far they are holding up nicely. With a multi meter there is absolutely no power drop or loss across the 2” repaired section. I also tried to remove a piece and it comes up without hurting the tape below. The problem spots were re-soldered and filed down smooth before applying the thin conductive adhesive copper tape layer on top. It actually smooths things out a bit and takes away the little click as the cars pass over the power tap. I will continue to monitor and report back if I find any issues that may arise with this type of repair but after about 1,000 laps there is no sign of wear, lifting or power issues of any sort. Thankfully all of my tap joints are in the middle of long straights and therefore should never really be much of a problem should there be some sort of minimal power fade in the future. This conductive adhesive shielding tape for guitars can be found for about $5.00 on ebay and Aliexpress. I also have tons of it in 1”, 2” and 4” rolls for my guitar cavities and back plates should anyone care to just try a piece themselves on a problem spot. The three lane section I tried this on used all of a 2 1/4” x 2” piece of tape and looking back I probably could have used the narrower 1” roll to do this. From JMSracer: Thank you for sharing this, your repairs looks very clean and seamless. I haven’t had any issues with tape lifting or tearing at the power taps only little on a couple of my tight turns but this is a great solution for a quick repair. From DArt: Excellent! :good: :good: :good: :good:
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- 5 years ago
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Great site for Sponsor/Logo- Numbers http://www.racelinedigital.com/store/ Look under Historic Motorsports Enjoy!! :yahoo:
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in: Decals
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- 5 years ago
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Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Airfix MGB Sports model I bought this kit at the Torcan model show. The kit dates back to 1967. Nice to find an old gem like this. Worth doing the build. I hope to have it finished by the weekend and race it at the Dale in just under 2-weeks. SP-slow class. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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C3 Corvette I found this kit a while back. The body is reasonable. I like the car. I was the kid on the bike in the background when this car was new in 69.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Bugatti Type 59 I thought I would join in on the pre-war builds. Anyone doing a 1934 Bugatti Type 59? I spied a kit, so before I buy I wanted to check with the group. Thanks Dave Dave
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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WordPress Update Recently our service provider automatically updated our website software (Wordpress) to a new version - v 5 - which now uses blocks - and with this has created a number of challenges for me to deal with on the back end. Things should be transparent on the front end however. I need to come to grips with these changes so I apologize for the delays with adding new content... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead. :good: The assembly begins... Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Bandsaw blades I recently had a bandsaw blade explode and got lucky it didn't catch my hand in the process. I went to the usual industrial suppliers for a 93.5" inch by 1/8th scrolling bandsaw blade and found nothing in stock anywhere (Usually $16.00). I stumbled across a guy that makes blades to suit for $29.00 = Barry at M&L Sharpening Ltd 1550 Bayly Street, Unit 22, in Pickering. When Barry told me that he uses Starret blade stock, I actually got excited. It took Barry 10-minutes to make two blades while I waited. I now have a blade that cuts through thick aluminum as if it wasn't there. The weld is so straight, you can't see it pass when the power is on. I won't buy cheap blades anymore. I like my hands too much. Ken
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 5 years ago
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63 Split window Corvette Stingray We had a workshop recently where we drilled a chassis for roller bearings and a guide. The chassis fits a 63 split window coupe kit made by AMT.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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65 Porsche 911 at Spa…What could be better Fantastic short vid, amazing driver control, thrashing a race prepped vintage Beauty around Spa, ENJOY!! https://youtu.be/CvDD8V9Liq8
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Several Updates… and a few Upgrades! Gentlemen, Over the past few weeks we've had a multitude of updates added to our humble little corner in this universe - and one that failed - so after many many hours of confligulating annurosis and conjugulations to the untowards things were finally stabilized. I've never been closer to a pale shade of white than I was recently during those harrowing steps... but all is good that ends well and which is unnoticed by most... So upwards and onwards Blitzen, Ruben & Bacardi - hmmmm - something isn't right - yes - the order.... One upgrade featured alternate randomly generated user avatars - monsters - and since we are all sick of the tapestry avatars the monsters looked fabulous so I checked that box instead... funny how that spurred some to add their own avatar now... but like the screenplay says - nothing is foolish - it only gets better!!!! If you think that was subtle - take a closer look around - you might discover something... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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Eldon/Shelby GT-350 body revival I bought a few 1/32 Eldon bodies when I was 10-years old. Reviving a few of these cars has been on my bucket list for the last umm... 46-long years. Anyone interested?
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 5 years ago
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Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Vanski – Death Row – May, 2019 Execution – Sportscars Only Gents, As a heads up and given that the Vanski motor has been unavailable for many, many years now - we will be the first group in Southern Ontario to eliminate these motors from our Scratch32 and R32 1950's & 1.5L Grand Prix classes. This will have no effect on sportscars where they will continue to be permissible. We'll focus on the definition of 'low power motors' to effect this change... Over the winter you might want to consider moving some of your inventory to other groups - where they will be sought after... Cheers!
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- 5 years ago
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Black Jack Brabham video Hello lads, very nice short video, track drives of the BT7, BT24, and BT33 with Jack's son. The man was incredible, engineer, racer, businessman. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/OI9wXkHXqyA
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in: Drivers of the Past
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- 5 years ago
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Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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New Classifieds Plug In Gents, I've settled on an alternate classifieds plug in which works fine - Not my first choice but it is still good - and FREE! Many more things to configure... I'll have a few ads posted tonight to verify that everything works as it should for any registered user... :good:
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- 5 years ago
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PGP Insert Detail x2 Those of you interested in the upcoming Coppa D'oro and more specifically our new pre-war class (PGP/PGP+) have already worked with the new DArt pre-war wheel/tire/insert package. This is the recommended package for the class which comes with a choice of three inserts. Another new option for you: Using the same wheel I've taken two of the 20 spoke inserts and sanded one (the white one in this example) down to a thickness of approx. 1mm and placed it behind an original sized insert (the grey one) to see how it looks. You be the judge. It took me approx. 5 minutes to do this using both a coarse grit sandpaper, finer sandpaper and a sharp exacto knife. For best results I would suggest that you spray both the spoked inserts with your choice of Tamiya TS (or airbrush acrylic) and the wheels. Adding a black or dark grey wash (or any contrasting colour) to the inside of the wheel will make the spoke detail pop. Since most of the kits come with centre nuts or knock offs use them to finish the centre... So this is a fourth insert alternative for those of you building models for the Coppa. I'll be using this technique for both the Alfa 8C and the Mercedes SSK wheels that I am preparing for myself. Those of you who might still need a wheel package let me know - I've got 4 or 5 sets completed - now I am working on white tires for early models...
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Race Transporter Reference Drawings I wasn't sure where to post this so please feel free to move this thread. I was recently pointed to a thread on Slotforum that contains scale plans by Mike Sells for many vintage race transporters. Anyone feeling ambitious and need a winter project? https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182130&hl=%2Btransporter+%2Bplan Cheers Bill
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Classifieds Plug In Removed After several software and plug in upgrades on Sunday our Classifieds plug in broke - I've been working on fixing this over the past day but I haven't had any luck - so I've disabled it for the time being and will work on a fix or a suitable alternative - my apologies for the inconvenience.
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- 5 years ago
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Controller brake pots I just shorted out my controller recently and created a dead spot on the brake pot. After doing some research, this is what I found out. The following is pasted from Andrew Smith, CEO at Professor Motor. One important tech tip to help the brake pot – when finished racing turn the pot always to the “full brake” position so that IF the controller is hooked up incorrectly then the circuit breaker that is on the circuit board will protect the pot – if the brake is not at “full” when a controller is misconnected the short circuit that the pot sees will likely cause damage. No need to add a fuse .. there is already a self resetting electronic circuit breaker that we designed in on the circuit board .. that circuit breaker replaced the fuse that we used to use years ago … but any fuse or breaker is not effective if the pot is partially on (unfortunately) Ken
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in: Slot Car Resources
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- 5 years ago
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Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings The key to keeping axles true to each other is in the set up. I measure and scribe everything before I start drilling. I always start with a pilot drill. It can be used to lightly poke an accurate spot indicating if you're on target. Drills are too long and flexible to check for accuracy that way. I don't need a digital readout this way and use an inexpensive $75 drill press.
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in: How To – Build It
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- 5 years ago
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Model Database & Model Gallery Updated Our Database and Galleries are updated to include the latest Carrera Panamericana models...
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- 5 years ago
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Group 25 Model Car and Model Slot Car Show Flyer – Saturday, September 29
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Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.
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in: Slot Car Resources
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An ALLARD – KURTIS SPECIAL? PANAMERICANA ? An ALLARD - KURTIS SPECIAL - PANAMERICANA ? Fantasy . Hi guy's, I'm well new here and came across some nice coloured photo's of A K Miller's "Iron Horse" and also noticed in my book, that Tony Bettenhausen had run a Kurtis - Chrysler in the 1953 La Carrera. Now I don't know of any 1/32 kit's for the above BUT I do know George Turner Model's produces a very nice Allard J 2, that I fancy getting. (Big smile). So a few pic's off Google and maybe an up-date of a build in 12 month's time. The GTM in it's wooden 'buck' format. The Resin model, with co-driver. The Inspiration. A Kurtis - Lincoln 1954 Although there are quite a few photo's of Tony Bettenhausen's Kurtis - Chrysler # 21 on Google, I was unable to 'lift' any.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Adding a Face & Shield to that Helmet For Targa V I re-entered my Porsche 908/2 with pilot Gijs van Lennop (red helmet) at the wheel but felt that another racing upgrade was necessary - not to the motor or chassis - but to the pilot's helmet. The DArt HT70 comes in two pieces - helmet and opaque visor - so I decided to remove the visor and add some facial detail by cutting a cross section of HD05 - enough to fit inside the helmet - which I painted complete with fire resistant balaclava. I sliced off both sides of the original opaque visor, painted them flat black and added them to either side of the visor gap, but before doing so made a template from which to cut the visor. I hate working with thin pieces of brittle transparency and so for the visor I decided to experiment with something much easier to cut and handle... Using the template I traced and cut out a slightly larger piece from a clear plastic bag (yes - the same bags that all of the DArt parts come in) and placing a very small drop of clear epoxy on either side (where the visor pivots would be) I added the clear plastic visor making sure that it was tight across the face of the helmet as the glue set. After this dried a small drop of silver paint would be added on either side of the visor as visor pivots and to help cover up where the epoxy was applied. The upgraded visor and helmet performed flawlessly - and more are on my 'to do' list for other models. :yes: Total cost was $3.50 (HT70 $2.50 + HD05 $1 + bag they both come in)...
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Coppa D’oro Trials Some time was found to run trials for the new Scratch32 Golden Era Pre-War models - and so the Coppa D'oro was born.[foogallery id="8039"] After nearly a century it is never too late...
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Ferrari 750 Monza Scaglietti Here is an extensively modified Ferrari 290MM body kit which was turned into a 750 Monza as raced by Fon Portago in the final edition of La Carrera Panamericana. A single plastic exhaust (with exposed muffler) is used on the left hand side - and the exposed tail pipe is aluminium tube attached to the chassis. And in an effort to keep the look of this model period any temptation to lower or slam the body was snuffed - there is room above the motor to lower the body - but that would just not look right. This model in its current configuration utilizes an 18k Ninco large can motor for competition in the SP+ class. The added RPM (and torque) offset its overall weight (115g) to make this model perform and handle exceptionally well. "Look Ma - No Screws!" The body is attached to the chassis using one of my favourite methods - hinged side pods glued to balsa wood (epoxy) - using piano wire sleeved with brass tube inside brass tube on either side... The beauty is that all you need to do to remove the body is pull out the flexible wire tabs from brass tubes attached to the rear bushing uprights... no screws to fiddle with, work loose or lose on track... Just a simple wire/brass chassis with your basic .032" brass tongue front end and flat brass motor bracket to allow the motor/pinion to be swapped out. All of these parts were made using household hand tools although a trip to the garage to the drill press would have been quicker... square Parma oilite bushings were used at the rear. The angled wire braces on either side of the motor sit very tight to the motor giving the chassis added stiffness. The motor itself is angled slightly downwards towards the front of the chassis, both to lower the COG and to ensure the pinion is properly lined up with the crown gear. Round oilite bushings holding the front axle are reinforced with a 'chuck' bar soldered to each bushing and to the brass plate. The guide is a clone of the Ninco classic guide made by DArt. Crown gear is slot.it 28t, axles are professor motor, a DuBro #2 washer is soldered to the end of the front axle for independents, all four wheels are modified BWA, inserts and urethane tires are DArt - the tires are the club series tamper proof marked DArt CT0101 tire using a 1/8" white dot through the meat... which were leftovers from a past MiniGrid order. ...gearing and motor can yet be changed to increase performance - this chassis should be able to comfortably handle any motor up to 25k... and one day it might... :good:
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- 5 years ago
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Figures132 I took the liberty to combine these previously posted pics for Figures132 on behalf of Michael Dark. You may have taken the time to notice a few photographers around the Ring courtesy Bob... Should you be interested in any of these please contact Michael directly. I'll leave it to him to reply with his preferred link should he wish to fulfill any orders... in the past he has provided both unpainted and painted versions... not cheap but well worth every cent!
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- 5 years ago
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Vintage A great initial get together for the 1934 Correa Ford V8 Special from the Rio GP and Sir Tim's 1930 4 1/2L Blower Bentley from LeMans!!! Both ran remarkably well while still maintaining their correct 'tall' appearance. Maybe even more remarkable was that despite a big dis-similarity in weight, size, motor and gearing, both cars made similar enough lap times that racing will actually be feasible and fun and they looked spectacular together on the track!! World's apart as 1:1 racers, but they didn't appear inappropriate together today. This is going to be fun!! :yahoo:
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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Draft Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v4.0 – May, 2018 Gentlemen, I've prepared and attached an update in draft format of the current Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines (v3.0) that addresses the following: Eliminates the confusing reference to 15" wheels and sets all of the basic wheel sizes in metric (millimeters); Offers a basis from which to calculate wheel diameter and width to avoid confusion and make compliance intuitive; These updates to wheel dimensions are not substantive - they do not change anything - but clarify the rules as they were; In hot rods wheel size is no longer restricted to 14mm wheels - hot rod wheels may be smaller in diameter since this does not offer any performance advantage; In hot rods the previously mandatory SC0120 DArt tire is now no longer mandatory but still highly recommended; In sportscars since we have the relatively new SP+ subclass the 'target' motor reference allowing any motor to be used especially for heavier models is no longer necessary and so the SP class is once again restricted to only 'Slow' motors listed in G7. All models using any other motor will be classed as SP+; The draft version reflects all of these changes. For convenience I've marked all of the changes as follows: deletions are crossed out; and additions are in red. Please feel free to print/review your own copy (attached below) and comment by replying to this thread or in person at our next scratch32 event. You must be logged in to review the attached draft and comment below.
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Chassis acceptability Art, quick question. To finish my 356 I used a Strombecker brass chassis with some modification. So is a custom body mated to a Strombecker brass chassis eligible for scratch 32? I am thinking not but wanted to check as I thought that was dealt with on the Forum but couldn't locate it. Thanks
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