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I’ve started another transporter project… Well I got a little bored over the weekend and I’ve had one of these parked in the corner of the race room for a while now.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 1 year ago
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59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser".
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in: Scratch Built Models
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R32 Classes for 2023 Gents, I know many of you have been overwhelmed with new classes in every group that races in southern Ontario. R32 is no exception but rest assured that our R32 classes are now fixed for the balance of 2023. Recently we've added several classes as a fifth experimental race. We've also included them in our Class Criteria subforum for reference going forward. At this point R32 has 23 classes in total. You'll find them all within our Class Criteria subforum. Some of the 'new' R32 classes are not new at all. The original Sportscar (SP) [and later Sportscar Plus (SP+)] class[es] which included any sportscar raced between 1950 and 1969 are now divided into four distinct classes: 50SP - 1950's Endurance Sportscar 60SP - 1960's Endurance Sportscar USSP - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar USSP+ - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus Any host can combine these if they wish, such as 50SP and 60SP as Porsche911 did last visit to Spa Lyons. Trans Am Plus (TA+), Boulevard Cruisers (BC) and Indy Roadster (IR) have been on our radar for many years. You can find several threads for each of these classes started years ago in our forums area. Simply use the search scratch32 website feature at the bottom of any page to find helpful examples of discussions, builds and tests posted by many of you which have proved very beneficial in getting these classes up and running. Unlimited Open (U) while a new class is not really anything requiring a new build or anything special since everyone racing with R32 will already have more than suitable models that have no class to race under. Models previously raced in the former Classic Prototype series (CP) are all great candidates as are other RTR models such as the Mosler. Well, there you have it. Going forward R32 will add a fifth race to every race morning and these new classes will feature equally within our schedule for the balance of 2023. I'll remind you that the KRZ chassis works very well for both the boulevard cruisers and indy roadsters (among many others). Contact Kensredzed to order one if you don't have a car already. In addition to our usual R32 rotation we will have S32 special events including American Thunder, La Carrera Panamericana, Ringwood, Coppa D'oro, Targa Florio, Player's 200 and the Internationale Meisterschaft for those hankering to scratchbuild even more! Now get building!!!
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in: R32
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- 1 year ago
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Ford GT Alan Mann Heritage Edition Gents, Some of you who visited our host MVL Leasing saw the Alan Mann Heritage Edition Ford GT. A beautiful super car and wonderful tribute livery straight from the Ford factory. From MVL's Instagram account these photos were released: For more information visit: Top Gear Article
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Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged). Motor: BWNC1 Chassis: Any in any configuration Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D7 (black or white walls) strongly recommended]
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Indy Roadster (IR) Indy Roadster (IR) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any true, front engined roadster that tested, registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards. Eligible Liveries: Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced are allowed. Motor: BWMS050. Chassis: Any inline front motor configuration where the complete motor 'can' is forward of the base of the windscreen. The motor may be offset. The motor shaft extension may use additional bushings/bearings and be directly attached to the motor shaft with any flexible coupling (such as a spring or soft tubing) or be offset using any gearing. Minimum Weight: 80g Maximum Overall Width: 54mm Tires: Any sized DArt Club Series urethane tires with a reasonable scale appearance. [DArt D7.5 strongly recommended]
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Military Junkyard possibilities? So I came across a box of old military vehicles and thought some of it might come in handy for slot car transporter conversions and/or track scenery.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Hot Rod sub classes From online, email and in person discussions over the past several years it should now be safe to say that the overall class of Hot Rods (HR) breaks down more precisely into the following sub classes: Street Rods (SR) - (aka Hot Rod) - Any modified or customized car or truck model from 1948 or earlier with or without fenders in paint or in primer; Rat Rods (RR) - Any custom car or truck model with a deliberately worn-down, unfinished appearance, typically lacking paint, showing rust, and made from cheap or cast-off parts; Street Machines (SM) - Any modified or customized car or truck model from 1949 or later with fenders in paint or in primer; and Gassers (GS) - A vintage drag car that was popularized in the '50s and '60s (up to 1968) that ran on gasoline and used a straight axle front suspension which gave the model a very high front end stance. Most gassers also sported Halibrand wheels, no front bumper, and had a front mounted Moon tank. The gasser form was dictated by function and most builders looked to eliminate as much weight as possible. Having their exhaust pipes exit through the front fender to shorten the length of exhaust tubing is another common characteristic of gassers. Builders used 1930s through 1950s production coupes or sedans to create these highly modified racing vehicles, including (but not limited to) the following: 1933 Willys Model 77 Coupe; 1940 Willys; 1941 Willys Americar; 1948 Anglia; 1949 Chevy Fleetline or Styleline; 1951 Henry J; 1955 Ford T-Bird; 1955 Chevy Nomad; 1955 Chevy; 1957 Corvette. I believe the first three sub classes are easily covered by the current Hot Rod (HR) class criteria. Gassers are another story never meant to be raced around corners. To encourage realism in Gasser models rather than institute some technical requirement (such as a minimum front axle height) a form of bracket (or minimum lap time) [if they are raced] may be a better solution. A minimum weight limit might also be incorporated to help offset the performance disadvantage. Thank you to everyone for their comments and especially to Belleville Kevin for bringing some much needed clarity to this otherwise vague class.
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Porsche 550 Coupe Guten aben meine freunde, Porsche 550 Coupe reveal... :>) D'art kit, KRZ chassis(thank you Ken), Vanski motor, 10X23, RS slot wheels, D7's front, D8's rear...Fantasy livery, my home made decals(except Marchal headlamps). Car is smooth(read NOT a lot of speed), and apparently, the Lyons engineering team, in an effort to reduce 'unnecessary ballast' , elected to include brakes! Again, 3/30 rule invoked....I tried for hours to get the windshield/window for to sit just right, but $#@! I couldn't get it to sit perfectly, went with best overall fit...perhaps I'd bent it, did the best I could..will continue to learn(I hope!) But, it does look nice meandering Spa...On to the next project..
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in: Scratch Built Models
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1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965; Motor: Any Tires: Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire; Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
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1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Tires: Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire; Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
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Unlimited Open (U) Unlimited Open (U) v1.0 Eligible Models: Any body (hard or clear) regardless of class Tires: Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Maximum overall width of 70mm
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User Login Update I've updated our Scratch32 login process for all users and tested it using a generic test account. All users may now log in using any of these website links: The original MEMBER LOGIN widget at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page; The original Log In fields at the bottom of every forum thread; and The new LOGIN main header menu link at the top of every page (or the new LOGIN footer menu link at the very bottom of every page) which will take you to a new customized login page. After you log in you will see your avatar and user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page, along with a logout link. Please remember to log out using either that link or the logout link underneath the classifieds widget at the bottom right side of every page. After you log in if you wish to view your user profile click on either your avatar or your user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page. You can also edit your profile there, including changing your password or your avatar. Please note that after you log in there will no longer be a black account administration menu at the top of Scratch32 pages. If you wish to edit your user account, change your password or avatar or log out you will need to use the procedures noted above. Should you forget your user name you may now log in using the email address associated with your account by clicking on the LOGIN main menu link. If you forget your password you can have it reset by clicking on the Lost Your Password? link immediately underneath the new login page to receive an email allowing you to reset your password. ***REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER AS THESE PASSWORD RESET EMAILS ARE SOMETIMES FLAGGED AS SPAM. *** Hope this helps... Cheers!
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Trans Am Plus (TA+) – More Restrictions Needed? Regarding our proposed TA+ criteria are there any additional restrictions that anyone wishes to suggest? So far we have: Eligible Models: Any hard body model that raced in the Trans Am series between 1966 and 1973 regardless of class. Motor: Any Gearing: Any Chassis: Any Tires: Rear – Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front – ‘Stock’ or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire NOTE that anything goes but for years raced, hard bodies & tires... ...of course the usual requirements must be met as with any class whether stock or open (ie. body, wheels and livery must look period correct, wheels/tires cannot exceed the width of fenders, etc.)
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Trans Am Plus (TA+) Trans Am Plus (TA+) v1.1 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that raced in the Trans Am series between 1966 and 1973 regardless of class. Bodies may not be modified by chopping the roof, adding flares or modifying fenders in any way. Motor: Any Gearing: Any Chassis: Any Tires: Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
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1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP) 1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed between 1960 and 1965. Cars produced in or prior to 1962 constitute Group 1 cars and cars produced thereafter constitute Group 2 cars Motor: BWA BWMS050 Wheels - Not exceed 14mm in diameter AND: Group 1 wheels must be no more than 6mm wide Group 2 wheels must be no more than 7mm wide Tires: Rear - Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Front - Any Stock or DArt Club Series Urethane Tire Overall maximum width of 50.8mm
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The 1954 Pegaso Z102 Cabriolet Saoutchik 2a Serie Street The Spanish company Pegaso is well-known for its trucks, busses and tractors but many people don't know that for a period of 7 years, the marque took a jaunt into the world of sportscar building – resulting in this, the Pegaso Z-102. This beautiful little car is the only Saoutchik Cabriolet Pegaso Z-102 Series II ever made, the coachwork on the body is jaw-dropping from every angle and the factory model was fitted with a 165hp, 2,814 cc quad-overhead camshaft V-8 with a 2-barrel Weber carburettor implies that it also has the legs to make it a hell of a fun drive. It was decided that the chassis, drivetrain and engine would all be built in house by Pegaso and then the rolling units would be shipped off to coachbuilders to have bodies fitted – in the tradition of pre-WWII automakers. This one-off Z-102 Series II Cabriolet was built by Saoutchik and was arguably the most beautiful of the 88 or so cars ever made by the company. In 2013 this model went for $700,000 USD at auction. Cut and paste this link on your browser to view it. https://youtu.be/S1R2KPRz_B8 Some links with information and photos https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Paris_-_Retromobile_2014_-_Pegaso_Z-102_Série_II_cabriolet_-_1954_-_001.jpg https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Pegaso_Z-102 THIS BUILD The body of this model is from the Pegaso Collection by Top Slot. It's a highly detailed & finished resin body with a production run of only 300 worldwide. The model came with an MRRC Seabring chassis which didn't work very well with this heavy 50+ gram resin body. I replaced the original chassis with a custom aluminum chassis and used my Dremel tool to carve out a lot of excess resin material under the hood, to give this model a chance at being a decently performing slot car. The following are some photos of the model and the aluminum chassis. White wall tires are Dart tires.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Copper Tape Maintenance This is for owners of DArt tracks or others with copper taped mdf/wood tracks... and these are just my suggestions for maintaining your tape which have worked for me over the years... With the change in seasons no matter how hermetically sealed your track space is you will notice a change in expansion rates between the mdf and tape... and it may be more pronounced when your track is newer... but have no fear - it is easily fixed. For routine maintenance especially before hosting a race I recommend doing the following: As for regular track maintenance: 1. Vacuum the track surface and each slot; 2. Using a clean but dry microfibre pad with broom handle (or a cloth) sweep the entire track surface; 3. Inspect the copper tape for any lifting... and using a BIC lighter carefully burnish any bubbles/folds back down so the tape is flat; 4. Repair any breaks or damage to the tape if any; 5. Turn track and timing software on to check that it works; 6. Run a stock scaley car slowly in each lane to make sure there are no dead spots between any previous tape repairs... if any dead spots then take a sharp exacto knife, locate the beginning and the end of the section that is dead (by moving the car along that section until power is interrupted) and pierce or stab more tiny holes in the tape that overlaps the original tape (usually a short length of 1 or 2 cm - note the small holes in that short length already); New tape repairs: 1. Bridge the dead length (or cut) with a 4 or 5 cm piece of tape overlapping the original tape by a couple of centimeters at each end; 2. Before applying the tape cut each end of the tape at a 45 degree angle using scissors; 3. Remove backing and apply tape making sure there is enough overlap; 4. Burnish the new tape using a BIC lighter; 5. Stab holes on both ends where the tape overlaps until power is restored to the dead length; 6. Apply a small bead of superglue to the edges of the newly applied tape and let dry.
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Willys Gasser Style Coupe More than a year has gone by since the initial post #17570... and in my spare time, I built a gasser. I was inspired by some of the photos I found on the web. There are many. The body of my Gasser is a stock Carrera Willys coupe model with an aluminum chassis under it. The front sits high and can easily be modified by adjusting the length of the body posts. This will be done once the rules are determined. At the moment this model can be raced in the hot rod class. The chassis is powered by a 14k ff motor. The complete model tips the scale at 82 grams, making it a slow hot rod due to its weight disadvantage. Depending on the final ride height, it will require weight to lower its COG which will likely put this model over 90 grams when complete. I have a wider set of rear wheels for this model but I built it to meet our current HR rules until the Gasser rules are set. A the moment F1nutz and I will be racing only with each other... lets get building gents!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Latest rendering Latest build from Spa Skunkwerks, who knew same in German as in English! :>) No special build, just FLY white kit 908/3, all my home made decals save for rondels...Accompanied in pics by prior ventures(not posted) Not perfect, need to perfect burnishing tape, negate 'bleed', but I think it passes the 3/30 litmus test, 3 feet away and 30KM LOL!! And evidently, I am driving it! Sadly, nowhere near performance of others built, have to spend some time(not too much) to figure out...
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Targa Florio building construction It is scratch built but not a car.. Thought I’d start a thread on the construction of my new track scenery project for the Targa Florio.
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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Honda RA 271 I have always liked the Honda F1 cars and own the excellent DArt Honda RA 273. I purchased a "Munter" John Warren Honda RA271 kit over a year ago. The inserts provided were too large to fit the RS Slot 15 x 7 wheels so DArt inserts were used instead along with DArt tires, mirrors, and the red Sun off a DArt decal sheet The resin exhausts looked too fragile so I bent some copper wire and reproduced the exhaust system. The driver figure has seat belts molded in however I believe they were not used in the real world of 1964. Since I was not aiming for total accuracy, I decided to use it along with a car # that was not used during the season. So here it is.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 1 year ago
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Happy Thanksgiving! Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! :-)
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in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!
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- 1 year ago
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1960’s 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) 1966-1969 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a 3.0L Grand Prix car which competed from 1966 through 1969 Chassis: Any inline chassis Motor: Scalextric FF050 as provided in current releases of Scalextric brand cars Wheels – maximum 14mm diameter Tires - Any DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 12mm; and Front maximum width of 7mm; Maximum overall width of 60mm
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Lancia-Ferrari D50 Since I have not been able to race lately, I have tried to keep connected to the hobby by scratch building, this is my D'Arts Lancia-Ferrari D50
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in: Scratch Built Models
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D’Arts Brabham BT 44 I previously build this kit but I was not happy with the result so learned about the SuperClean product and restarted it again
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Spam Be Gone! Gents, After some time experimenting by allowing non-registered email posts within our forum recent spam attacks proved more than just an annoyance - so now only registered accounts can post to our forums. Please be advised that throughout this experiment our website was never compromised nor were any user accounts compromised in any way. If anyone or anyone you know wishes to participate in our forums please request or have them request to have an account set up. It is easy to do and safe and secure as well. Cheers!
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CANAM (CA) CAN AM (CA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a Can Am car which ran at two sanctioned CAN AM races at different tracks in any year between 1966 through 1974 (coupes excluded) Rear Wheels: minimum 14mm in diameter Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire (NC0101 and D11 recommended, D13 STRONGLY recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series
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1950’s Grand Prix (50GP) 1950's Grand Prix (50GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body model representing a Grand Prix car which competed between 1950 and 1960, typically with engines in front of the driver Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, BWMS050, Vanski FF050 or Ninco NC1 Wheels: maximum 14mm in diameter x 6mm in width Tires: any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire (SC0120 and SC0120F highly recommended) Overall maximum width: 50.8mm
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Modern F1 (F1) Modern F1 (F1) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any 'stock' modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model Motor - must be a 'stock' Scalextric S-can or slim motor - whichever came with the model Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm Optional Modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used - rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels Rear Tires - any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire Front Tires - 'stock' or any DArt 'Club' series urethane replacement tire Rear Axle - may be replaced by a solid axle Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Weight - may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body - no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only) Gearing - stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracing
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King Cobra/Cooper Monaco Class eligibility??? Hi gents, I believe the only class/race eligible for King Cobra/Cooper Monaco would be the "Players 200", correct? Thanks.
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in: R32
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Classic Stock Car (CSC) Classic Stock Car (CSC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a hard top stock car which competed in the 1960's (plus or minus 3 years). All bodies must contain a clear plastic front windshield, rear window and all quarter windows (driver and passenger door windows may be removed) Motor: BWA BWNC1 Wheels: Maximum 14mm diameter Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Tire [DArt D8 or D9 strongly recommended] Minimum overall weight of 100g.
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Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body modern (1995 or newer) era model that competed at Le Mans regardless of designation or class Rear Wheels: Minimum 14mm diameter (or larger) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required
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Very interesting site Came upon this while looking for information... Have only looked briefly but very cool! Amazing catalogue of manufacturers, history etc. Check it out!! https://www.conceptcarz.com/view/make.aspx
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in: Historical 1:1
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Ferrari 246 SP Dino The sharknose Grand Prix car evolved in the early 60's at the same time as the sportscar. Racing in 1961 and 1962 the Ferrari 246 SP achieved some success. Here is Rodriquez in the Targa. I opted to fashion his french team mate. I started with the DArt body kit. I planned to mate this kit to an ASS (A Simple Sled) chassis. So far so good...
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1963 Watson Special – Front Motor Indy Roadster Lots of discussion prior to the pandemic led to the beginning of an Indy Roadster class using a low power motor in an inline front motor configuration. In that spirit this is my build based on a 1:32 AMT kit for a 1963 Watson Special. This kit was the foundation for the DArt body kit which is what I am using for this build. The original kit and all of the parts, including decals: The DArt body kit which will be used: First things first - sorting out the wheels and tires. I opted to use RS Slot 15x7mm (14x7mm) insert wheels with DArt D7.5 tires mounted front and back. I trued down the fronts a little smaller. The rears were trued to a diameter of 25mm and the fronts to 23.3mm... I used the setup blocks as pictured when setting up my jig. Now time to start on the chassis using assorted piano wire and brass pieces... This is my version of a two piece rotating torsion chassis. The motor is an extension of the rear end of the chassis even though it sits above the front section. A separate piece of piano wire wrapped around the guide tube will hold the two halves together after I solder the tips in place just ahead of the rear end. Now that the basic chassis is complete - you can see it has stubs for the front wheels - we can begin assembly, starting with the motor and driveshaft. Lots of trial fitting went into positioning the braces that will hold the motor shaft extension bushing. I only want to barely touch that bushing with my soldering iron to fix it in place after the motor is installed for the final time - then carefully clean away any acid flux and oil liberally. Time to trial fit the shell. I chose not to offset the body (or chassis) since we'll be running these on road courses. I'm happy with the overall stance of this chassis and body so time to trial fit the interior to provide clearance for the drive shaft/pinion. I hope to conceal the driveshaft under the pilot's left leg but I may need to improvise... we'll see... stay tuned!
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Back home recovering Hi guys, Some of you may know that I had surgery last Thursday. I'm back home recovering. I wish to thank everyone for the good wishes and prayers! Ken
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in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!
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- 2 years ago
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Indy roadster Parnelli Jones Meet Parnelli Body on the left head on the right.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 2 years ago
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1970’s Grand Prix (70GP) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed from 1970 through 1980; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: Scalextric FF050 or Fly / Flyslot FF050 as provided in current releases by these manufacturers; Tires - Any size DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire: Rear maximum width of 16mm; and Front maximum width of 10mm; Maximum overall width is 68.5mm.
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- 2 years ago
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Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any model with or without fenders; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: BWMS050; Tires: Any size DArt Club Series urethane tire (ie. SC0120 (rear) & SC0120F (front) recommended); Maximum width of front and rear rolling assemblies (track) is 50.8mm but bodies/fenders may be wider; and At least one racing number.
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- 2 years ago
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DArt McLaren M1B This M1B prototype got moved to the front of the build line. The plan is to standardize the M1B for DArt body/KRZ chassis quick-build kits in the near future. Chassis will be designed for slim-line motors to sit flat without the use of any spacers. A new paint-booth is under way. I decided to undo the mess I made in the basement kitchen before it became permanent. Anyone would have a hard time to figure out dozens of cars were painted there now. This prototype has CX0201 tires with 13x7 wheels on the front. The next prototype will have RM0201 tires with 13x5 wheels on the front.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 2 years ago
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More Updates & Some Success! Over the past few weeks we've had some major updates to our website and, it appears, fingers crossed, that the issues we had previously of some accounts not being able to post automatically have been resolved. Nothing I've done recently in the settings solved this but an upgrade finally did. Yahoo!! Next up - to figure out why our website is so slow... but that is another chapter in this saga...
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3.0L LeMans (3LM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body open cockpit prototype that competed between 1972 through 1977 in an endurance race such as LeMans (as raced with headlights) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (NC0101 or D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required
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- 2 years ago
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Classic LeMans (CLM) Classic LeMans (CLM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric, Fly and SRC sidewinder 'Prototype' models which competed at Le Mans between 1965 through 1971 Motor - 'Stock' Scalextric, Fly, SRC or equivalent (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (FL0201 or NC0101 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Minimum overall weight of 80g Optional modifications: Wheels - front and back may be replaced with 14mm wheels - Inserts or wheel detail to match the original car Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Axles & Front Pins - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning' Gearing - stock gears may be replaced with any 11T pinion and any 36T crown
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- 2 years ago
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Trans Am (TA) Trans Am (TA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Sidewinder Scalextric and Pioneer Trans Am models Motor: ‘Stock’ Pioneer or Scalextric (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (SC0801 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series (SC0801F Urethane Tires recommended) Minimum overall weight of 85g Optional modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide together with any guide adapter Wheels - front and back may be replaced by any 14mm aluminium wheel. Inserts are to be period correct and resemble original car Axles - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning') Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Gearing - any 36T spur gear may be used together with any manufacturer 11T pinion
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1971 Trans Am I bought an Airfix 420 that had a deformed body. I traded it in for a recently released a 1971 Trans Am from Atlantis that's simply beautiful. Looks like we have another Trans Am body style to choose from.
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in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff
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- 2 years ago
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Indy Roadster Considering my little experience building chassis I opted to emulated Art's Indy Roadster chassis to the best of my capabilities with a few modifications
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R32 XLVI FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 12, 2022 @ MVL (12 pm) Classes: NASCAR (NC), 1950's Sportscar (50SP), Group C (GCI) and Group 5 (G5); Format: Random chip draw will determine rotation position for every race. 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4. Five marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. NASCAR (NC): #11 - 103 Laps (17.032 ext.); #88 - 97 (12.852); #48 - 96 (17.690); #24 - 96 (24.944); #43 - 94 (28.211); #26 - 93 (21.312); #88 - 86 (24.484); #48 - 84 (17.647). 1950's Sportscar (50SP): #22 - 97 Laps (23.723 ext.); #6 - 94 (15.710); #10 - 94 (16.949); #18 - 92 (13.085); #47 - 85 (22.485); #7 - 84 (10.104); #701 - 79 (14.864); #56 - 74 (26.678); #36 - 66 (42.060). Group C (GCI): #62 - 109 Laps (11.672 ext.); #62 - 106 (23.255); #14 - 105 (8.310); #25 - 102 (12.745); #85 - 102 (12.933); #7 - 101 (14.288); #38 - 99 (10.675); #6 - 94 (13.880); #62 - 93 (16.308). Group 5 (G5): #23 - 113 Laps (20.485 ext.); #21 - 105 (12.963); #576 - 104 (5.208); #539 - 104 (8.296); #51 - 104 (15.077); #14 - 101 (8.254); #?? - 100 (10.945); #23 - 93 (15.754). [foogallery id="24645"]
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Anonymous (Email) Accounts & Spam Gents, Since allowing anonymous (email) accounts to engage our spam folder has gone crazy. You may see some bizarre posters in our forums area but not the posts - since they've gone to spam - it is only after they are manually deleted do they disappear too... so be it. Not a big deal but an annoyance none the less. Let us know your thoughts - is it worth it?
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- 2 years ago
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Chassis Question Guy's Question on 50's era Sports Cars class is it plastic only chassis or scratch and plastic allowed? Also is the 60's era chassis rules the same. Joe
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in: R32
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- 2 years ago
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Lotus 30 – 351C with 2 x 4-barrel Holley carburators Here's a couple of 4-barrel Holley carburators on a 351 Cleveland powered Lotus 30. Sweet. :good: I know what's going on my next Lotus 30. I need to locate those aluminum stacks. Don't you have some of those MIA?
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 2 years ago
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Scratch32 Accounts Gents, Given the relentless attacks on our website (and ongoing security issues they create) for the safety of our regular participants accounts not used (or logged in) for three months will be deleted without notification.
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1950’s Endurance Sportscar (50SP) 1950's Endurance Sportscar (50SP) v5.0 Eligible Models or Hard Bodies: Any 1950's era Sportscar (production or prototype) that competed in an endurance race between 1950 and 1959 lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tires; Maximum width of body not to exceed 57mm; Minimum overall weight of 75g.
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1960’s Endurance Sportscar (60SP) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) v5.0 Eligible Models or Hard Bodies: Any 1960's era Sportscar (production or prototype) that competed in an endurance race between 1960 and 1969 lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tires; Maximum width of body not to exceed 57mm; Minimum overall weight of 75g.
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- 2 years ago
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Pictorial history of the Alfa Romeo 33 I was doing some research for a 1/24 Alfa T33 Periscopico build and found the following exhaustive thread some may find interesting. https://www.robertlittle.us/t33chronologyenglish.html cheers! Bill
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 2 years ago
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Group 5 (G5) Group 5 (G5) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Sideways brand Anglewinder ‘Group 5’ model; Motor: ‘Stock’ Sideways plain yellow wrapper; Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D11 strongly recommended]; Minimum overall weight of 84g; Optional modifications: Any parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. pods, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.
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- 2 years ago
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Group C (GCI) Group C (GCI) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Slot.It brand inline Group 'C' or 'IMSA' model; ‘Stock’ parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Motor: ‘Stock’ White or Orange endbell Slot.It motor; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series D11 or SI0201 Urethane Tires; Minimum overall weight of 80g; Optional modifications: Any Slot.It parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. offset pods and offset crown gears, larger diameter wheels, screws with metal washers, set screws and spacers for aligning front axles, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.
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- 2 years ago
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NASCAR (NC) NASCAR (NC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric brand Sidewinder NASCAR (Car of Yesterday or Car of Tomorrow); Stock parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series SC0705 Urethane Tires; Front Tires: Stock Front Tires or DArt Club Series SC0705 urethane tires.
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- 2 years ago
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Auto Union Type D – Dart Kit For this build, I have used the recently released Dart kit of the Auto Union Type D. As usual, the quality of the kit is second to none and it comes with two driver busts and seat options, large wired inserts and a long styrene tube with two brass push in threaded inserts to be installed as body posts where needed. I decided to mate the body with an aluminium chassis (KRZ Design) that I made specifically for this model. The BWA 14k ff motor is glued onto the chassis with 5 minute epoxy. I decided to use wired wheels that were purchased from Pendle. You will note that there is the appearance of significant tire degradation to the front wheels on this model-it wasn't due to the photo taken after a race. I'll be replacing these rubber tires that came with the wheels with Dart urethane that will be trued to the same size. The model as shown in the photos includes the smaller half bust that came with the kit but it is evident that this option requires a thick seat cushion otherwise the driver can barely see over the hood. I'll be replacing the half bust with a modified full body to achieve the most realistic result. The model runs very well, and is competitive, with my Auto Union Type C and Mercedes Benz W125. Based on early test results, this type D outpaces the other two. A new entry for the next Coppa D PGP+ race with Tazio Nuvolari behind the wheel to join Bernd Rosemeyer in the type C and Rudolf Caracciola in the W125. Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 2 years ago
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1963 Indy Roadster I found a few links that folks might find interesting when building the car. It is not a slot car build but won first place at the 2016 IPMS Nationals in SC. Parnelli Jones's 1963 Indy 500 Winning Watson Roadster - Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles - IPMS/USA Forums (ipmsusa3.org) The second link is of a Facebook page (embedded in first link), with step by step pictures with comments when you click on the picture. I guess you need to be on FB to see. The interesting thing I liked is it helped locating where bits go plus it identified the paint colors to use for the Watson Livery. Don't know if it is helpful to anyone but I found it helped me. My model is coming along. I am going for a Watson Livery. Mica Blue nose and White Pearl body, a little ambitious for me but what the heck. I ordered decals and a paint mask to help me along. The chassis I built 18 months ago for a STP Nova body but was never happy with the body. It fits the Watson with minimal adjustments. The chassis wheelbase is a touch long (1/4inch) as you will notice in the picture. So far the car is primed, interior glued in and driver fitted but not glued nor detail painted.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 2 years ago
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Luis Meza VW
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Austin Healey Sprite I was walking along the front lot earlier looking for sections that still needed raking, when I heard the rumble of an antique motorcycle engine coming around the corner. I turned around and found that it was a tiny bright red Austin Healey Sprite. I remembered that I probably have one of those packed away somewhere in the basement, possibly even in the right scale. I eventually took a look and found a Healey 3000, as well as a 32’nd scale Sprite. It was a nice AirFix box of the 1958-1961 Sprite MkI. (1997 re-box of 1961 tooling). However, the contents weren’t so nice and I recalled that I had set it aside deciding that it wasn’t worth spending time on it. But seeing the real thing drive by, gave me renewed motivation. Fig. 1: You can’t judge a book by its cover – you can’t judge a kit by its box-art ! I had built many model cars when I was a kid, but never a 1/32 scale, and this one looks like the tiniest of the tiny. (I use two large magnifying glasses while doing intricate work, but here I could make use of a microscope!) I started work on it and found that the tooling, moulding, casting were even worse than I had initially thought. The front fender pontoons were lumpy. The three sections making up the front end of the car did not fit properly. The hood seam in front of the windshield was scored different thicknesses from one segment to the next. Door seams were irregular. Rocker panel seams were different heights and shapes between left to right side. Other body features that were supposed to be the same, were different sizes and shapes from each-other, and not symmetrically positioned on the left and right sides. The headlight lenses are nice but the dome sockets they are to fit into on top of the hood are not smooth and semi-circular but are instead elongated leaving excess at the top and a gap at the bottom. There are other inconsistencies that I won’t bother listing, plus more I’m sure to discover. (Once again, it seems that I’ve stumbled into an overly difficult model to work with.) But I decided to stick with it anyway. One of the problems for me in this smaller scale, has been motivation, so I decided now that I have a bit, I should make use of it. Fig. 2: Sprite in another of the many standard colours, ‘Mint Green’. I assembled the front end body sections, and started the prep by sanding down those seams and all the lumps on the curved surfaces. I’ve never used body putty on a motorized car, fearing that it may crack under flex during competition, but here I couldn’t avoid it and decided to take the chance. I filled in the top hood seam and the small body-fit gaps in the front, as a start. Fig. 3: Kit contents. There is something else about the body that doesn’t seem quite right. I almost bought a 3000 Mk III when I was a youngster, but I don’t know much about the Sprite, so I started searching the references to learn a bit about the car. If I’m going to the trouble of building it, I want to do it right. I couldn’t find matching wheels in my collection, so I tried the body onto a ‘Carrera Go’ chassis, and even at that 1/43 scale, the chassis was too large for this tiny body ( ~10.5 cm x 4 cm; ~4” x 1 ½” ) . With the kit wheels in place, the body looked very high off the tech block. I thought the problem may be that the wheels were out of scale too large. Doing a search and some arithmetic, I found that the kit tires are properly scaled and do correspond to the vintage Sprite tires, “Cross-ply 5.20-13 tyres”, which are apparently 23.1” or 587mm overall diameter (on nominal 13” rims). The kit wheels have a Rim diam = 11mm, Tire diam = 18mm, giving a Track clearance = 7mm with tires touching the inside of the fenders, and that already appears far too high for the tiny sportscar. Adding a 2 mm tire/fender clearance on the model, (which would be more realistic and would be needed to allow for minimum body roll), gives 9 mm track clearance, and would convert to 288mm, or 11.3” road clearance on the real car. (That 2mm tire/fender scale clearance converts to only 2 ½ ” tire/inside fender clearance available to the real car, still far too small.) I don’t own a sports car, but the road clearance from the bottom of the rocker panel of my mini-van is only 8 ½” ; the other cars in the garage are lower. Since the wheels are to correct scale, the only conclusion I can draw from this analysis is that the model is out of scale too shallow. As a result, they had to cut the wheel arches too close to the top of the body. The shallow body also gives very little clearance for the tires inside the fenders thus the whole body is raised far too high off the track. All of this is even apparent from photos of the real car. (Exterior photos, as well as photos under the bonnet show that there is plenty of space, and structure, between the top of the tire and top of the fender.) Fig’s. 4 & 5: Body proportions of the kit and the real car. It’s very obvious from comparison of these two photos, that the model body is out of scale too shallow, streamlined. (Compare the heights of the door panels, the heights of the fenders above the cut-outs, and the space from top of tire to top of fender.) Unfortunately, it’s an effect that can’t be corrected on this model without major surgery. On the other hand, using smaller wheels helps with the body height and track clearance, but makes the wheel cut-outs on the model look even larger . (I may have to do what I see done on my Ninco XK120 and many other sportscar models - build a step drop between the body and chassis. Even on the real car, some chassis components show below the bottom edge of the body. However, such a step will limit my chassis design and it’s dynamics.) This thing has given me so much trouble; Looks like my initial assessment was correct and I should have just left it in the box! In any case, now it’s become a challenge! So I have been searching for correctly scaled rims and tires. I have worked out four possible chassis designs to fit this tiny body, but until I have the wheels in hand I can’t finalize the adjustments on the body or the detailed dimensions of the chassis. I’m looking for rims 13” nominal which usually work out of be 13mm diameter at the centre ridge and 11.5 mm diameter at the outside edge, depending on the manufacturer. I need 5mm wide for the front pair and 7mm for the rear. Corresponding tires would be 18mm diam before truing. It's going to be difficult to compensate for the shallow body; I may have to do other adjustments, but I want to get the best balance possible. I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. Vincent Van Gogh
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 2 years ago
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1/87 fun Inspired by MIA’s Aston Martin article I thought I’d post a pic of an Ho transporter and cargo I picked up on my most recent visit to Ireland. It is a postal vehicle breakdown lorry made by Oxford die cast as are its cargo.
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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Trivia Question What was the basic configuration of the 8 lane slot car track in Jack Rabbit Slim's Restaurant? The prize is a pack of urethane washers for the first correct answer. Tie Breaker: What lane was white? If you identify the lane correctly with your winning answer then you get 2 packs of washers.... Good Luck!
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1936 Auto Union Type C – #4 Bernd Rosemeyer This is a PGP+ class eligible model for our Pre War Coppa D'oro series. The main restrictions for this class (apart from the mandated motor) are a maximum track of 50.8mm (excluding inserts which may extend beyond) and maximum tire diameter of 23mm. Of course all tires must be DArt club series urethanes and wheels cannot exceed 16.5mm in diameter nor be wider than 5.5mm... so armed with that info we can begin building something eligible...The basis for this build was the DArt Auto Union C Type body kit with a few modifications and upgrades. As always I begin with the wheels which I modified by turning down a set of 4 DArt DA16x9XL alloy wheels. I carefully mounted 4 DA0210 club series tires using clear Gorilla Glue after scuffing the outer rim surface and let them dry overnight before truing with my Hudy. Using the truer I also narrowed the front tires using a sharp Xacto knife. After sorting the overall tire diameters I gathered some small bushings and the rest of the parts needed including the low power BWMS050 motor with a 1.5mm 10T pinion. Initially I also opted for an aftermarket 23T crown gear but then went with the orange 25T gear instead after initial testing. I opted for a simple torsion chassis using a combination of piano wire and brass. The front end would use stub axles made from piano wire with DuBro No2 steel washers soldered on one end. Because the washers were too large in diameter they needed to be ground down to fit within my front axle braces. I also fabricated the motor mount and guide sleeve. After sanding all of the parts I soldered the rear end together. Then I made the front section. The front and rear sections are only held together with piano wire tabs that slide inside a small brass tube. By gently pulling them apart (and out of the tube) you can separate the front and rear halves of the chassis which allows for convenient cleaning and maintenance. The wire tension is enough to hold it in place. Before final re-assembly I made sure to clean any flux residue before applying a blackening treatment to all of the chassis parts using a disposable dollar store brush. Make sure you are happy with the chassis - because after you apply the blackening chemical treatment to the steel you won't be able to solder anything to it. While the steel does turn black the brass is more stubborn and will only give you an antique look at best - but I still prefer this to painting anyday - and I prefer to take away the shine of brass (or steel) especially on exposed parts that don't reflect the real thing. I painted the wire wheel inserts that came with the kit and after final assembly I glued them in place using white glue. The assembled chassis weighs in at 45.7g.. I wanted to use as much of a complete pilot and interior so I modified the original body by opening up the cockpit. I also extended the cockpit slightly by removing material up to the recess for the original windscreen (which I would replace with a more detailed windscreen from the DArt Type D body kit).The painted and washed body shell (without interior and exterior detail) now weighs 9.6g. Decals which I printed on clear Testor's decal sheeting were applied. I also used Micro Mark decals for the front grill detail. Then I made firewalls which could be glued in place using thin styrene sheeting. Other upgraded parts included a pilot figure, head, steering wheel, shifter and interior side panels from the DArt D Type body kit, plus DArt button radiator cap and DArt fuel cap. After painting the body silver I added a black wash using Tamiya flat black acrylic paint diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner to bring out more detail where I wanted it. If using the acrylic thinner (which is alcohol based) only apply carefully where you want it and let it pool and dry to give the desired effect. Quickly wick away any wash that creeps where you don't want it since the longer it remains the harder it will be to clean away. Once it is dry it is impossible to remove easily - you'll need to polish it out then. I would do the interior first. I would use clear 5 minute epoxy to fix everything in place, starting with the firewalls. Then came the seat back (minus head rest) and dashboard. While that dried I removed the lower portion of the pilot's legs and sanded away the underside of his thighs to give me as much clearance underneath as possible. Luckily I did not need to shrink his torso. Once satisfied with the fit (and clearance) of the torso/legs I glued the pilot arms to the torso and placed the steering wheel in his hands and let dry. [I trimmed the steering wheel shaft since I never fix the steering wheel to the dashboard - I always leave it in the pilot's hands - which I find much easier to work with.] Then I glued the pilot's body to the seat and let that dry. Then the side panels were fixed in place and finally the shifter was added. The interior was done. I could add a styrene piece underneath his legs to finish the interior but I'll leave that alone for now. [Turns out the blackened chassis works nicely underneath so I decided to not bother adding a floor.] Exterior details were then added. The windscreen was second last - after hand drilling a pair of holes to fix it in place. Finally a solid aluminium wire was added to the rear of the body through another small hole hand drilled. The completed body now weighs 12.9g. Not bad!Add two screws and four urethane washers (2 for some body float and 2 underneath the head of each screw (to prevent the screws from backing out) and our completed model weighs in at 59 g.The original crown gear performed just fine when the chassis alone was tested (before the body was completed) but as fate would have it would fail on the first lap in its debut... but replaced and tested the model is very quick and this chassis shows lots of promise for 2022.Happy to answer any questions. If you would like to upgrade any parts on your C Type (like I did) drop me a line... Cheers! [foogallery id="20971"]
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- 2 years ago
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Recent ‘Brute Force’ & ‘DD0S’ Attacks’ on Scratch32 Gents, Some of you may have recently experienced frustrating delays and/or errors loading pages and forms. This was due to both unprecedented cyber brute force attacks and new DD0S attacks on our website by hackers in multiple countries. Brute force attacks repeatedly try to crack administrator passwords to gain unauthorized access and DDoS attacks bombard the site with coordinated zombies/botnets to flood the server and slow it down or even crash it. Welcome to 2021! I've been monitoring these attacks and tightening our login requirements using several tools. So far I can confirm that no breach has occurred although our website has been very slow at times. With https our site already offers the most secure server side connectivity as is possible so for all users/members there is no need to do anything other than ensure you follow safe internet practices, such as: ensuring your connection to our site is always secure - via https only (you will see a little lock icon beside the address); use a unique password for your Scratch32 account to ensure that should any breach ever occur your password is useless for any other web related services; change your password regularly; and avoid using auto login on your computer. Remember that under 'My Profile' you can also add/remove/edit your own contact information at any time. Please ensure that you only provide as much information as you are comfortable with. To have a Scratch32 account you only need to provide a valid login ID and email address - the rest is superfluous. Scratch32 does not process payments, payment information of any kind nor any financial transaction at all. Links to products from any of our advertisers are handled and processed separately and independently through their own secure servers. No data whatsoever is shared. For example, our title sponsor DArt processes every financial transaction through square.com . For those of you who I may not see over the upcoming break - stay well this holiday season and I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Remember that if we all do our part we will continue to keep Scratch32 safer for all of us to use for years to come.
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- 2 years ago
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Scratch32 Administration Refinements Gents, I removed the black menu bar which used to sit at the top of the page which I believe many users found confusing and problematic to use. Some features did not work using the links from this bar, like changing your avatar for instance. Now if you want to change anything related to your own profile you will have just one option - to go to 'My Profile' in the top menu from any page - and everything there works. Create blog posts from your profile page as well. For new forum topics please make sure you are within the appropriate sub-forum first before starting a new topic, otherwise every new topic goes to the General Information forum. I'll do some housekeeping with this and hopefully everyone will be on board going forward. I also reset all forum user accounts to eliminate the problem that some accounts had with posting new forum topics and replies. I've tested this with a dummy account and it seems to have solved this problem for all accounts which have already posted a topic and a reply in the past, but hey, you never know. If you post a new topic or reply in our forum area and it doesn't appear online immediately after you submit it then it would need approval before being published - it isn't gone or lost - so be patient and it will be approved if need be...
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1938 V16 270MPH Mein Gott im Himmel!!!!! Very interesting read, enjoy!! https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/16-cylinders-and-270-mph-in-1938-the-auto-union-v-16-was-an-audacious-engineering-feat/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=MED_UN_NA_EML_UN_SaturdayRoadTrip_NoDynamic&hashed_email=170fa62cc0aed16287891b042259a1bc59321344c1285c809b30ed968be18987
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 2 years ago
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1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)
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Ford V8 Special – #32 – Ireneu Correa – 1935 Rio Grand Prix Many consider Ireneu Correa as the 'grandfather' of Brazilian motor racing since he was the first Brazilian to win an international race - the 1934 Rio Grand Prix - which was raced on the lengthy Gavea course. A little history on the Rio Grand Prix can be found here. South American racers who competed in early motor sport events throughout the Americas favoured and raced North American models right up to the outbreak of the second world war and this was particularly true for Correa until his death in 1935. These models were not elegant - they were in fact very hard to look at - but in the 1930's they achieved successes in part because their competition was focused on motor sporting events back on the European continent. But by the mid to late 30's European entries would begin to dominate major south American events such as the Rio Grand Prix. Correa trained in the United States as a mechanic in order to modify and prepare his own race cars. The entry which he prepared for his return as Champion of the Rio Grand Prix in 1935 was yet another Ford - a V8 Special - entered as #32. Unfortunately on the first lap while chasing the race leader Correa would skid out of control and hit a tree launching his car into the canal - an accident that he would not survive. Believe it or not his car would return to race again but became known as 'the cursed car' after killing another pilot. And so with that historical perspective in mind I decided to kitbash a Lindberg Ford kit into something unusual to compete against a deluge of European models for a new 'pre-war' class - an early to mid '30's Ford V8 Special, as prepared and raced by Correa in the 1935 Rio Grand Prix. I'm not a rivet counter or a scale fanatic nor do I believe that a slot car must be as detailed as a static model so I kept an open mind when planning the chassis, but first I would have to bash a body. My priority was for this car to look right when circling the track. That being said I still wanted the model to be as close to scale and as detailed as possible. It was also imperative that the guide be hidden as much as possible and not be visible at all when viewed from above. I shortened, lowered and narrowed the back of the kit body and then fabricated the rear end using styrene sheet and tubing to make the extra fuel tank and crown gear cover (to which the spare tire would be fixed) and wrapped it with a thin piece of L shaped styrene stock. The interior floor was raised in the centre to accommodate the FF050 motor and two DArt racing seats were modified to fit side by side. At the front I added a few styrene plates to cover the gaps left underneath the motor covers along with a few body flaps where the windscreen used to be. I used as much of the frame that came with the kit as I could - and left the fender seam and the trim underneath the front grill. The rear of the frame together with the bottom of the fuel tank (I think that is what it is) was cut off and added underneath the new rear end. The rest of the kit would be tossed except for the steering wheel, shifter, brake and dashboard. A complete DArt 'Nouvolari' driver figure would lose its head in favour of another DArt replacement. and that would come later. When I was finished I was left with two pieces - the complete body, floor and rear end and the separate frame which could be glued to the body after paint. I turned 5 wheels to 16.5 x 5.3mm which would accommodate a set of DA0210 urethane tires and DArt spoked inserts. I know these inserts have too many spokes but I liked their overall look and how they extended well beyond the wheel flange. I also cut off the ears leaving just a small round cap at the centre instead of the original two eared knock off. In order to ensure that the installation of each insert (after paint) would go without a hitch I drilled out material from the backside in the centre of each insert to accommodate any small extension of the axle and the washer for independent fronts. The overall diameter of these wheels with tires mounted and trued was 23mm. With dimensions of the body and wheels now in hand it was time to plan the chassis. I fabricated a small motor bracket for the BWMS050 motor and would use two sizes of piano wire and brass tubing to join everything together. I went with very small Slot.It bushings at the rear in order to give me flexibility in mounting the rear of the body. Due to the ride height of the chassis and with several parts needing to be attached at different levels this chassis took a little more planning to make sure it would turn out right - measure twice, cut once. The motor would sit 3mm below the chassis and the guide sleeve 5mm below. The chassis didn't need to be too strong since it was for a low power motor and a lightweight body - and was never travelling to a proxy race. I decided to mount the body using some styrene tube into which the chassis would 'snap' at the rear and a #226 styrene post up front into which the 'V' shaped wire brace would be secured with a single screw. Material was removed from these three contact points until the ride height was where I wanted it and there was enough body float. Urethane DArt washers would allow sufficient body float and prevent the screw from ever backing out of the brass insert. My own research didn't turn up much to assist with this project so I needed to improvise and make educated guesses where appropriate. With a Brazilian owner/pilot it was more than likely that this model would have raced with a pale yellow body on top of a green frame/chassis with black numbers. I sprayed the wheels a lighter shade of green and weathered them with several washes of dirt. The body was sprayed yellow and then the paint was sanded using 1200 wet paper to give the finish a dull, worn and weathered look. Since I used grey primer underneath the colour changes slightly depending on how much paint was removed. Everything else was hand painted. Number decals were printed on my inkjet printer and sealed using Crystal Clear - and then applied. Nothing was used to seal or coat the decals after they were applied but I still might apply some Micro Set decal sealer by hand... I made a small cover from large styrene tubing which I painted flat black and glued to the front of the guide to hide the clips when viewed from the front. Other details included the textured belt and buckle and a spare with a small aluminium rod that was bent and fixed to the centre of the hub which secured the wheel on the real car. I planned to add a second tire underneath the spare but have not done so (yet). The chassis components for this model: BWMS050 w10t brass pinion x 28t Slot.It crown (for now - gearing will be changed though); DArt 16.5mm x 5.3mm wheels with DArt inserts; DArt DA0210 urethane tires; Slot.It rear bushings and PM axles; Scalextric Round Guide with Slot.It braid and generic silicone lead wire; The basic specs (at present): 60.3g overall weight; Track: front = 53mm / rear=52mm (excluding inserts); Wheelbase: 80mm (83mm from guide); Chassis Clearance: 8mm / Min. Clearance: 5mm (at motor/bracket); The driver still needs a pair of goggles and a co-pilot is in the works too but there is no rush now that the model is ready for action. For more pictures of this eyesore visit our model gallery here.
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- 2 years ago
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R32 XLIV @ Spa Lyons Thanks for hosting a wonderful return to Spa!!! It was great to bang fenders again with the group!
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- 2 years ago
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DArt A Simple Sled (ASS) Chassis Demand for a simple and cost effective low power motored chassis for sportscars and classic stock cars is surprising. This DArt ASS Chassis specifically for NC1 or BWNC1 motors seems to fit the bill nicely. Several regularly ask for this chassis. I do plan to upgrade it but eventually... stay tuned. In the meantime take care to set up your DArt ASS chassis properly - use a jig and glue everything in place - it will reward you in no time. It took me about an hour to assemble. First off, if your chassis is slightly bent, warped or twisted you can place it on a flat ceramic block (or tile, or anything else that is flat) and hold it in place with rubber bands... run hot water over it - then cold - this will straighten the plastic/resin... Make sure to clean off any excess flashing around the parts before assembling. Drill out the front axle holders using a hand chuck. It is easier to make them oversized and then set your brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. If you are very skilled you can drill out both front axle arms and upper and lower set screw holes to allow independent adjustment of your front axle after the chassis is built. I don't bother going that far though. Measure the axle distances and cut the front tongue to accommodate your wheelbase then epoxy in place and if you have them use screws and washers to help fix the tongue in place. Next glue in your motor (after pushing/soldering on your pinion - make sure to cut your motor shaft if will not be centering your rear axle using the crown gear channel). Then glue in your rear bushings or bearings. Then glue in some bracing using 5 minute epoxy and .055 piano wire. NOTE: The lower brace was glued in after the motor but before the bushings/bearings... Here's what I did to the rear end of my DArt ASS Chassis.... For the front end I set my axle, then glued my brass tube in place with 5 minute epoxy... notice here I didn't bother using any set screws for height adjustment. Balsa wood glued to the underside of the shell provides the best and lightest way to secure the chassis to the body using 2-56 screws with brass inserts... Done!!! And it runs as good as any simple sled should... Thanks for your looking!
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- 2 years ago
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All you need to know about LeMans entries! Hello racers, found this, amazing source chronicling EVERY(yes, apparently EVERY) LeMans entry with photos of cars(also model renditions), Pilots and order of finish, or not... 1923 to current. Enjoy! http://lemans.sqwib.org/index.php
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 2 years ago
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3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time. As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 2 years ago
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Making The Ring Constructing The Ring Planning Prior to routing and after contemplating layout alternatives I decided to stick to the past features of tracks that I believed worked best for all forms of 1:32 scale racing with some compromise to facilitate the scenic element I desired. Some of the DO's and DON'Ts I followed: DON'T: Cram too much track into your space - less is more Use mechanical lane switchers or other 'gimmicks' that more often than not fail at some point during an event Use lane cross-overs Try NASCAR style banked turns with corners having an outside diameter of 6 feet or less Have ANY 'humps' (depressions or compressions are fantastic and achieve the same drama) or any abrupt elevation change Incorporate any very tight fixed radius 'kink' in the middle of any long straight Have 'shortcuts' that dramatically favour any lane Place corners or brake zones in obstructed areas Place corners in unreachable spaces Have more than one squeeze zone Have any lane with a diameter less than 10" (10" is already a hairpin) unless this absolutely cannot be avoided Have lane spacing less than 3" anywhere but for a squeeze - 3.5" spacing is ideal Have outside gutters less than 6" away from any outside lane in or after any corner Place any scenic element (ie. guardrails, tire stacks, hay bales, trees) closer than 6" on the outside of any corner or the exit of any corner Make straights perfectly straight DO: Have an odd number of track overpasses Endeavour to make your lanes as equal in length as possible (if you space your lanes the same distance apart throughout without shortcuts they will be the same length provided you have an odd number of overpasses) Place all driver stations along the same vantage 'area' (ie. same side of track) but not too close together (alternate driver hookups spread around any track are great for practice or those times that just a few of you are having some fun) otherwise the home track advantage is too hard for many guest racers to overcome Ensure the last corner before your main timing straight is either an 'easy' corner to drive or a hairpin to minimize the frequency of 'riders' Incorporate at least one high speed corner, one hairpin, one long straight and one squeeze zone (Since preparing this article I've changed my mind and moved away from placing a squeeze in my newer tracks) Have lane spacing of at least 3.5" or 4" in the area directly in front of driver stations. Remember that the higher speed corners require greater lane spacing than just 3" otherwise cars will constantly make contact which is a big problem for open wheel models, especially wider Grand Prix models Routing & Support Structure For efficiency I used three routers, one mounted to an adjustable radial arm to cut the outside track edge, one set up with a jig using two adjustable bearings to cut the outside lane and one with a stepped base (3", 3 1/2", 4" spacing) for center and inside lane routes as well as edges and ditches. I had Luf's flexible strip on hand, some 8' strips of 1/8" hardboard plus the most warped piece of strapping I could find, and from scrap mdf I also made an 'S' shaped template to route each lane for the squeeze so that all three lanes would be identical. If you are an experienced and capable woodworker with the necessary tools and wish to try to route your own track there are no shortage of tutorials elsewhere if you need them. But I will assume that no one with little routing experience would take on this critical component of such a large project... The frame supporting this track is nothing special. It uses a combination of pine (1x4s & 1x2s) and spruce (2x4s) which is hidden by a cloth skirt. A shelf was made underneath for storage. Assembly Now that you've completed or purchased your routed sections and built your open grid support it is time to give your race room a track! Adhering to the 'measure twice' 'cut once' adage means that this portion of the build should come together quickly and with no surprises. Individual pieces were laid over the grid and glued together with white glue using scrap mdf underneath each joint, a section at a time. Proper alignment and clamping ensured a smooth transition. Patience is a virtue! Of course, with more clamps the quicker things go. By the time I clamped the second last joint what was clamped first was already dry... Clamp the last joint to complete the track after all other pieces have dried first. Here the last joint was set and clamped. Perfect joints do not require any fill for smooth performance. If necessary, I use Bondo. But remember, even the most 'perfect' joint will show after painting unless it is filled and sanded. If you do not want a joint to show at all you must fill and carefully sand each one. Now we have a single floating track. Time to add cross members. Strips of pine were laid out in the locations shown and glued and clamped in place underneath the track. These provide additional support and a place to fasten our uprights and later our hardboard borders. Since we didn't use screws there was nothing else to fill or sand on the track surface. Next decide where you want the track elevated. Keep in mind that overpasses should be no less than 3" high - I went with 3 3/4" to be safe. Camber can also be introduced and will have a dramatic impact on how your models perform in the corners. I used 1x4" pieces of pine cut in various lengths as uprights joining the cross members to the frame. Once the uprights are screwed to both the cross members and the frame they can be adjusted later without compromising the track surface. (You may want to tweak camber or the height of any track areas after your uprights are all screwed in place which is easy enough to do - just back out screws from the frame, adjust and then re-screw...) Don't forget you can use your clamps to help add camber, but don't be aggressive - otherwise the mdf will separate - and if this happens you tried to do too much. With 3/8" mdf if you can bend it without breaking it then as a general rule it should be fine for racing on...Elevation together with camber changes are now complete and the track is fully supported. Be conservative with any elevation change, especially rises. Off camber corners are challenging but do not over use them. BE CONSERVATIVE! Lightly sand the slots now. Painting A single coat of flat latex mid grade paint was applied using a standard roller. (Now I recommend using a small foam roller (4" wide) such as the ones you can buy at your local dollar store - this will give you the smoothest finish which will enhance the grip level.) Care was taken to ensure even coverage. Two coats should be perfect - if you need to do yet another coat then you've done something wrong.Areas for concrete patches were masked and painted using the same technique. Concrete sections, asphalt patches and lines were masked and dollar store acrylic paint was applied - for the patches using a small foam roller and for the lines using a small brush and 'dry brush' technique.Cutting uniform lines was made easy using two box cutter blades affixed to each side of a 1/8" scrap of hardboard. Curbs made from the halves of N gauge cork rail bed were also painted white and glued in place. The inside of the slot is not painted. Those that know me understand that I try to make things consistently imperfect to reflect the era of a 1950's or 1960's track... so perfectly solid white lines, curbs colours, etc. must be avoided... For a modern circuit - sure, but that's not my goal here... For the curbs I painted the entire curb white (two coats) and then used a rectangular stamp I fashioned from some solid foam to paint the black checks. As you can see they came out just the way I like them - far from perfect! Cracks in the concrete pads were cut using a fine Xacto knife. Applying a wash brings out the detail nicely. Lane marking 'dots' were applied where needed. Ensure all power tap slots are painted as well as routed ditches. You can mask and paint your skid marks at this point. I did not. Copper Foil Allow paint to dry for several days before applying the copper foil (copper tape). Do not attempt to tape your track in high humidity - this will have a number of adverse consequences down the road and you'll be unhappy with the results. The tape and the mdf have different expansion characteristics, not to mention that mdf absorbs humidity as well and will expand more in a damp environment.Make sure to take your time doing this. Use a single piece for each run trying not to break the tape. Start and stop each run from one of your power tap slots, this way the solder will ensure conductivity both ways. Luf makes a handy tape application tool if you've never done this. I find that applying by hand allows me to stretch the tape carefully around tighter corners for smoother corner transitions. Use a smooth rounded edge to burnish the tape after application, such as the side of a BIC lighter - but make sure not scratch the paint with the metal top! Burnishing the tape is VERY important and I cannot stress this enough. Edging and Facades Overpass facades fashioned after a bunker style poured concrete look were glued and clamped in place. Walls were also added. Ensure sufficient clearance for classes you race. 3 3/4" will accommodate Fly trucks. 1/8" hardboard was cut into 4" wide strips and applied to the outside edges of the track, fixed against those cross members we previously glued in place. Although it varies, border height averages just 1 1/4" above the surface of the track, sufficient to keep a 1:32 scale closed wheel racer on the table.Additional scrap pieces of wood 1" thick were added where more support for the hardboard was needed. Additional hardboard was used to fill in gaps between the border and track. DAP paintable caulk was applied to fill cracks. A hardboard back was also added to support the small hill.Now that outside edging is in place driver's stations were added. I used a minimalist approach but mounted the stations so that the controller hookups were upright. Wiring I use a central harness from 18 gauge wire for each lane which joins the driver's stations to each of the power taps located throughout the track. Trackmate driver stations together with all of the Trackmate timing, gantry and power relay hardware are easy to hook up when you follow the instructions.Make sure to get your polarity right when soldering your power taps though... otherwise you'll drive yourself crazy figuring out what went wrong. Adding a shelf underneath your table for both the power supply and computer is time well spent too. Make sure you test everything thoroughly before attempting any scenery. Scenery After proper wiring and testing it was time to start the scenery. Notice that where appropriate, track edges were routed to accommodate a smooth and realistic hard shell scenery transition to the mdf track surface.Cereal box or other similar thickness cardboard strips were glued to the underside of the track surface and to one another in a 'grid' to provide lightweight yet sturdy support for the wet hardshell to come. Wherever possible I always use white glue rather than other adhesives or fasteners. This part is fun for the kids too! After carefully masking the track surface and covering the rest with plastic wherever necessary it was time for the hydrocal. Small batches of hydrocal were mixed in a large plastic wash bowl and strips of shop rags were dunked in the mixture then quickly applied over the cardboard grid. If a rock casting was to be applied in an area I waited till the mix set and then 'glued' a cured casting in place using more mix, carefully filling gaps and cracks with more of the hydrocal mix and sculpting the surrounding areas as the mix dried. Where smooth or grassy areas were desired I simply brushed on several coats of hydrocal. Until cured, the colour of the drying hydrocal mix is darker and clearly reveals the castings. Woodland scenics water soluble liquid pigments were used to colour the rock formations, applied in several light washes, using just a large brush. Let gravity do the work for you. Soak up excess. A tan base coat of flat latex was brushed on to cover up the rest of the snowy landscape. I let this dry.After masking each area to be worked on a 30/70 white glue/water mixture with a drop of dishwashing liquid was brushed wherever grass was to grow. A liberal sprinkle of a mixture of fine Woodland scenics foam ground cover was applied, using several shakers. After spraying another coat of the glue mixture more ground cover was applied. After the third application of ground cover the grass was done. Adding Man Made Features Custom built structures and other man made elements were then installed. Urethane tire stacks were weathered and glued into place using Gorilla Glue. Scalextric guardrails were cut, painted, weathered and 'nailed' into place. Other details were installed, including an army of urethane straw bales, painted first, then glued into place at several locations around the track.It was a start and although far from finished the track was now ready to host its first race. - Art
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- 2 years ago
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Welcome to The Rock! A Few Pictures [foogallery id="20363"]
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- 2 years ago
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Introduction to The Ring – The Numbers The Ring Mississauga, Ontario, Canada This version of The Ring is the fifth custom routed three lane wood track that I've built for myself. Briefly, the Ring is a private three lane custom routed scale model slot car race track occupying a footprint of approximately 22' x 7'. The track surface is constructed from 3/8" mdf routed using a 1/8" flat bit sunk 1/4" deep. The track 'floats' on open grid bench work and is fully scenerized using a cloth soaked hydrocal hard shell base over cardboard strips. There are 1/8" borders raised an average of 1 1/4" high above the track surface. The three lanes are spaced 3 1/2" apart but for the single squeeze where spacing drops to just 1". Lane lengths are very close (green=72' 2 3/4", yellow=72' 3", red=72' 2 7/8") and the number of left and right turns are identical. Outside gutters are at least 6". Three overpasses provide a minimum clearance of 3 3/4", enough for Fly Euro Trucks. Total track surface elevation change is just 7" but appears greater. Average race surface height from the floor is 2' 9". The track was painted using a standard roller and mid range flat latex paint. Dollar store acrylic paints were used to paint the 'patches', skid marks, lines and race driver tributes. Wired positive, this track was 'taped' using Venture Tape Master Foil Plus 7/32" width and .038mm thick (red core) part no. 1750. Four soldered 'power taps' ensure continuous and uninterrupted power throughout from a Pyramid 30A adjustable power supply. Trackmate hardware and SlotTrak software provide the timing while Trackmate driver stations ensure easy controller hookup via alligator clips or banana plugs. As racing is a priority at this track racer's sight lines and ease of marshaling were kept in mind during the construction of this track. Model railroading inspired the scenic 'dimension'. But for a handful of recognizable items (grid rats and pit accessories, half tires, guardrails, signage posts and 7 'Kleinbahn' HO light posts) everything is scratch built from wood or styrene or cast from either plastic, resin or urethane. All but 5 trees are hand made, including various birches, aspens & hemlocks. Don't overlook what raw scenic materials you can find in your local green belt or at the bottom of a Muskoka lake... Pictures and a blurb on how some of these scenic items were created may make it here. As always, time will tell.
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- 2 years ago
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Los Angeles Slot Car Museum Greetings: I was looking at Google News and noticed a story (or paid advertisement?) in Motor Trend about the LASCM. Thinking about my Revell Lang Cooper, Gar Vic, and Dynamic Chassis slot cars buried in a dump somewhere makes me ask "WHAT WAS I THINKING?" https://www.motortrend.com/features/los-angeles-slot-car-museum-profile
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 6
- 2 years ago
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