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Ba-ba-ra-ra-cu-cu-da-da gasser build Ok so of the few gasser eligible kits I have I decided on this one.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 7
- 46
- 3 years ago
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Dart Hobbies Porsche 804 Four years ago, I read Art's post on how to prepare the Dart Porsche 804 kit and I immediately wanted one. Followed most of his advice and placed it over a simple chassis - from a simple mind. Originally it had an AB Slot motor bracket but I was never happy with the performance. I have since built a new chassis with a homemade motor plate allowing me to angle the motor and achieve a lower ground clearance. Just waiting use it in a race.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 5
- 4
- 3 years ago
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Ford Model T Hot Rod Greetings from Scarborough. It's time to contribute to this Forum after reading it for so long. Although I race with "the other Club", I did race a few R32 events several years ago and Hot Rods was one of the classes. After using a borrowed car, I decided to scratch build my own. Despite being in the Hobby since the 60's (off and on), I never a soldered a chassis together so this was going to be interesting. I used the Lindberg 1925 Ford Model T and added a box (made from styrene) in the rear to hide the crown gear and AB Slot motor bracket. It has RS Slot wheels with Dart inserts and Dart tires of course. For a first attempt, I was quite pleased with it.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 7
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- 3 years ago
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New Scratch32 Classifieds Area We now have a FREE classifieds area on Scratch32! Just click on 'Classifieds' in our top menu to see what is for sale (or wanted to buy). Or select 'Add a listing' from the 'Classifieds' drop down menu to post your ad right away! Users with a Scratch32 account can now post ads containing detailed descriptions and pictures of items they wish to sell privately for FREE. These ads can be read by anyone, including those without an account. [So you can post an ad and then link it anywhere else.] It is also easy for every user to manage their ads. All ads expire in 60 days. There are just three limitations: Only model slot car related content is permitted; No junk - only items of quality that you would or have used yourself; No retail sales or ads for inventories of items. Scratch32 will reserve the right to remove any ad(s) that do not comply.
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in: Website Information
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- 3 years ago
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Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 3 years ago
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Painting a Driver’s Head Last week I had the opportunity to paint a 1:10 scale driver's head for a friend. It was for his R/C off road vehicle - but I'm not sure which manufacturer's - I suspect Tamiya but I could very well be wrong... I used Tamiya flat acrylics diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner (for airbrushing) or water (hand painting/washes). After cleaning the plastic parts with SuperClean I airbrushed the head with a stock skin tone then darkened that skin tone slightly with a tiny amount of brown for the faint shadow underneath the cheeks, chin and ears. While the airbrush was still within reach I painted the cap with another stock dark olive colour. All of the airbrushing was done using roughly a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya acrylic paint and thinner to get a milk like consistency that I find perfect for airbrushing. Three light coats gave me enough base coverage. For the hand brushing I always start with the hardest or more detailed parts first - in this case the eyes - since if I screw things up I don't lose as much time if I have to apply the base coat over again. For the eyes I washed in some off white (which I think is still too bright - next time I'll add more colour to the white) then painted the iris blue and then the pupil black. I added a little line of diluted brown both above and below the eye for his eyelashes. Then I added a few very diluted washes of red over the lips - starting with the most diluted coat first over the whole lip area followed by a touch more pigment to the centre of the lips until I was satisfied with the result. Brown hair and eyebrows were next followed by some lightened highlights. Cleanup for everything was with Dollar store nail polish remover (with acetone) and so there was never any unpleasant smell. Soaking the airbrush parts in this solution for a few minutes then scrubbing them clean took all but 15 minutes... I did not use a primer and although I cleaned the plastic the paint can be scratched off with a finger nail if one tries... fortunately this head will not be handled much (if at all) so this was not a concern - but I would use a primer next time... ...hope this helps!
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- 3 years ago
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Peterbilt 352 Cabover – Revell Kit 1964 From the Revell Instructions: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is in a class by itself with custom styling, functional design and uncommon rugged beauty. The impressive Peterbilt 352 tractor is a trucker's dream. This cabover engine design reflects Peterbilt's thoroughness in the manner that they engineer and build heavy duty trucks. Every Peterbilt that rolls off the assembly line is custom built to suit the needs of each customer. And on the Box: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is a 10-wheeler with 110' cab and has comfort and elegance built into the driver's compartment and sleeper. The high standard of manufacturing excellence sets it apart from all other trucks. Length: 8 1/4" # of Parts: 59 Molded In: Light Blue Decals: Peel 'N Stick So, after nearly 10 years this project has returned to be the focus of my workbench... A square/rectangular brass frame was constructed to accommodate this body and the 10 wheels that it rolls on - using a high torque king can motor in an inline configuration with 8x29 gearing. The motor powers the first set of dual wheels - the second set tag along and can be removed with a pin for tighter tracks/corners. The cab is so large that in order to fit everything under the gantry/overpasses I will either need to lower it and open up the wheel wells or chop it shorter in some places - the jury is still out on which option to pursue... but for now here are a few spy shots from The Ring: BTW, this is no slouch - in its current configuration it will complete a lap in the 8 second range... but its real purpose will be to transport race models and/or pull a track conditioning/cleaning trailer... stay tuned!!! :good:
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- 3 years ago
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1931 Ford Pickup Lindberg kit which I have had for a while. Parts are from the usual sources, RSSlot wheels, Darts inserts, BWA 050 motor, scratch chassis. Runs well, quite smooth. Added a oak strip bed for effect. Kind of experimented on the paint, dark red first coat, sanded then red on top. I was look for an aged look but not sure it came off :unsure: .
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 5
- 3 years ago
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Microace & ARII Models – HobbyLink Japan It appears that Microace is re-releasing the original ARII 1:32 body kits which we love so much... and still very cheap. Porsche 911 & Turbo versions, Volkswagens, and many others... search for 1:32 and they have lots of goodies... including Revell, Airfix & Aoshima! Link: HobbyLink Japan
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- 3 years ago
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Soldering Essentials for Chassis Building – What You Need 40/60W Soldering Iron Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons - Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip. Tinning Compound New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned. Solder A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis. Flux and Pre-Cleaning You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years. Post Cleaning Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush. Soldering Surfaces & Jigs You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters. Pliers/Cutters A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool. Rotary Tool A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube. Drill with Assortment of Bits Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering. Sandpaper You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces. Files Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks. Optional Tools A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes. Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.
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- 3 years ago
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1965 Corvair Corsa Build I was fortunate enough to get 2-unbuilt Corvair kits at the same time. The best of everything from the two went to Art. I'm building this one as a test. This one was missing the front bumper, which isn't really an issue for a Corvair race car. Art has the front bumper to make complete Corsa kits. The paint is Testors "Star Spangled Blue". The colour on lid looks great. The nonsense coming out of the can is another thing altogether. :negative: More to follow...
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 5
- 20
- 3 years ago
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Open Trans Am car suggestions I'm chuckling as I look through the list of cars that ran in the under 2-liter Trans Am class. Ford/Lotus Cortina, Ford Pinto, Chevy Vega, Ford Escort Mk1, Mini Cooper... just to mention but a few. I doubt anyone envied a driver that raced a Pinto. B-) I'm just curious if open TA means any car that can be proven to have raced in Trans Am between 1966 and 1973? As in cars from the list above. Porsche 911's included. Any motor in any proven Trans Am car? Scary thought. The reason I ask... I have a 1969 Porsche 911 and a 1971 Ford Escort Mk1. I can put 40k motors in both cars? :wacko: Cheers, Ken
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in: R32 Class Criterium
- 3
- 10
- 3 years ago
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Ferrari 330 P4 – #224 Well this is a build of a Policar white kit of a Ferrari 330 P4 that I have built in my spare time during the second wave of the lockdown. I decided to build the car that ran in the 1967 Targa Florio #224 The kit came with two rear motor covers; one with an indented channel and one that is an inverted concave that is used on the stock RTR model. In order to achieve the look of the targa model, I had to cut the roof off the plastic kit and I used the motor cover with the inverted channel. I then cut a small piece of styrene building siding to fit the channel and glued it into place. Perfect look to match the original model. I could take this one step further and paint the vertical bits black but they look good already as they are. These photos were taken prior to the installation of the wiper and headlight lenses. No chassis built yet, this model sits on a plastic chassis at the moment. Here is the built model next to the stock model that comes RTR with full roof Ready to race.... zoom zoom! Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 4
- 3 years ago
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1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD. Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...
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in: Historical 1:1
- 6
- 13
- 3 years ago
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McLaren Elva Mk1 Another spare time build The McLaren Elva Mk1 This is my second build of an Elva Mk1 model. This is a fantasy livery. Having considered many different options, I decided to go with a pearl white and a dull red two tone livery. Printed some decals off the internet. This model requires a bit of care in some areas like the spare wheel in front of the driver that must be hand painted. The kit comes with tall and short stacks, I used the short stacks on my previous build, I went with the tall stacks for this model. I like the look of the tall stacks. This model sits on a plastic chassis for now. The two Elva's side by side.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 3
- 3 years ago
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Super Roadster I became motivated to build the first model of my double Lindberg hot rod kit. There are enough parts to build 3 variations of each model but I created a hybrid. As you will be able to tell, I like chrome. I used the kit chassis and then cut it back, then clamped and glued to the internal body sides. That allowed for a fairly simple chassis. The chassis is secured by a single screw into the engine block. The rear axle is secured in place by 1/8th inch eyelets which maintains body ride height. The decals are from the kit and I think they are kind of cool. Color is French Blue which is similar to kit color. Wheel inserts are from my parts bin. Wheels from Pendles and RS Slots.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 4
- 3 years ago
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Jaguar XK120
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 25
- 3 years ago
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Shelby GT-350 I started this car before I had proper direction. A newbie mistake if you will. I did not realize when I chose the "Candy Lime Green" colour that S32 Sportscar class stops at 1965. After a little bit of digging. I found a 1966 Shelby GT-350 that was entered in the 1967 Targa Florio (#210). A scarce American Mustang among a field of mostly European cars. It didn't make the race due to an accident during practice. It became a one-of-a-kind GT-350 BBQ. There are very few pictures of this car simply because it didn't race. This Shelby was all white. After taking 3-days to remove some really nice paint. The "Candy Lime Green" Shelby became all white. The chassis. I put a little more effort into manipulating the rear of the chassis so it tucks under the rear valance. Measure twice, cut once. The Shelby fits in the GT+2.0 class and requires a Scalex 18k motor. I went with 9x28 gears with an offset crown to keep the CG as low as possible. You can still see hints of green under the body. Hard to get it all out. The chassis tucks nicely under rear valance. It's a tight fit. The car came with black wheels. Inserts are D'Art 5-spokes. The car sits fairly low. The body could have gone even lower. But it's my humble opinion that it would not improve the look even though there might be a slight handling improvement to lowering it further. It's very difficult see the chassis under the body unless you lay your eye on the track. Mission accomplished in my books. The car has body-float.The tires don't rub on the fenders even at the extreme flex of the body-float. But they sure can't get any closer than they already are. It should be ready for the next Targa Florio. Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 5
- 3 years ago
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65 Pontiac GTO A friend (Another Michael) in Group-25 model club gave me this Monogram static kit and said "Make it go!". I finally decided to take his advice. It might make an excellent "Classic Stock Car". The picture on the front makes the car look tall and skinny. The decals on the side of the car look terrible. Two things I plan to avoid with this build. This is what comes in the box. After water sanding the body with 2000-grit paper. It's ready for paint. Tamiya orange covers the red fairly well without primer. I ditched the decals and threw the tall and skinny idea out the window. The rest of the field of Classic Stock Cars were the inspiration for the final body-height of this GTO. There is much yet to be completed like blacking out the front grills. Painting the tail lights red. The body requires Molotow chrome pen detailing. The driver is on order. He's out getting a hamburger, fries, and a Coke. One suggestion for a sponser is "Kickapoo Joy Juice". You would need to have lived through the mid 60's and already be self-aware to remember this old soft-drink (soda pop). Perfect for a vintage 1965 car.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5
- 3 years ago
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65 AC Cobra I bought a Ninco AC Cobra missing some parts a long while back. Steve and Art were with me at Carefree Hobbies when Nick (store owner) quoted $20. My brothers in slot cars were a bit dissapointed that they didn't see the car first. I was lucky that day. Thanks Nick! The body used to look like this. The car I would like to make is a Targa Florio livery from 1966. It will also serve as a Sportscar SP+. This idea started long before last July when I originally painted the body. Too many plans... Too many cars... The sun really makes the metallic pop. This Cobra will get a Scalex FF 050 slim line motor with an offset crown - 9 x 27. Stock, legal motor for this class.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5
- 3 years ago
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59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 7
- 27
- 3 years ago
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D'Art BRM 578 The Hot Rod Garage was open for business today. I need to solder a pinion gear. Then the motor can be glued in place and wired. It took a lot of extra sanding to get the chassis to fit the back of the body. I had to install the bearings on the inside because the flanges were in the way. I hope to have it running later today sometime. Very little room for the rear body post so it had to be drilled offset. Everything is a super tight fit at the back of the car. But it all fits. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 9
- 3 years ago
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Boulevard Cruisers I stumbled across a very detailed kit last year I thought was a loner. At the Group25 show last weekend, I discovered there is a series of these cars. Gunze Sangyo is the manufacturer of these stunning 1/32 kits. You rarely see this type of detail. The chrome is over the top and really sparkles. There 7-cars to choose from: A 1955 Chevy Nomad, 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy Brougham, 59 Caddy Seville, 59 Impala Sport, 59 Fairlane 500, and a 63 Thunderbird. Many are around $25 on EBay. The 59 Impala comes with 4-options for the roof. Open back seat, rear seat cover, soft top, or hard top. The 63 Thunderbird comes with 3-options for the roof. Open back seat, tonneau cover, or full roof. Art saw these kits at the show and it inspired him enough to suggest a new class of street racers without numbers. May I suggest it be called "Boulevard Cruisers"? White walls, low riders, slow motors... I also located a 59 Eldorado Biarritz. It's supposed to arrive next week. I really hope this turns into a new class in the future as Art suggested. These cars from Gunze Sangyo are stunningly beautiful! EBay search "gunze sangyo 1/32"
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in: R32 Class Criterium
- 4
- 41
- 3 years ago
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1971 Targa Florio video Here's 31-minutes of the 1971 Targa we all know and love. Stick with it through the slow parts. You'll probably learn a little Italian before the end of the video. Nice interview with Nino Vaccarella. A few club members might recognize their liveries. The faster cars taking off from the starting line are insane! :yahoo: https://www.facebook.com/GentlemenDriversASD/videos/215963979626676/ Cheers, Ken
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in: Historical 1:1
- 2
- 1
- 3 years ago
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1928 Bugatti Type 35C Enjoy!! https://sportscardigest.com/1928-bugatti-type-35c/?utm_source=sendfox&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=august-30th-2020-sports-car-digest-weekly-update
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 3 years ago
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HOT ROD – 1932 Plymouth I bought this kit from Ken a couple of months ago, a perfect candidate for a Hot Rod build. Inspired by Ken's candy apply red, I painted the car gold first, then red to get the candy apple finish. The body sits on an aluminium chassis, that I custom built. This is Lindberg Kit no. 2143 The plastic model motor was taken from another Lindberg kit and glued to the front of the chassis. SCC steel wheels up front and wider 14" x 8mm rear MRRC wheels. The rear hubs are also taken from another Lindberg kit and required some sanding to size. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to enlarge the rear wheel wells. It allowed me to lower the body over the rear wheels. I cut the front side quarter panels to expose the model motor that I painted and glued to the chassis. The white glue is still drying on the front windshield, once dry it will be less visible. I will be adding a number of additional details and will go over the body and complete a few touch ups. I can say that this is a very nice handling car, a pleasure to drive. Thanks for looking. P.S. If you are thinking of building a car but keep putting it off because you believe that your building ability falls short of your expectations or standards, I say forge ahead. Expect to make mistakes-you may scrap a few chassis before you get it right but just keep pushing ahead until you finish building your car. You will learn from your build and will take that knowledge to your next build which will be easier... Don't be afraid to begin, just do it and stop procrastinating. Your experience will yield you a model you can drive at one of the upcoming events, and that will be very rewarding.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 7
- 3 years ago
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Rio Grand Prix (Gavea) 1934 – 1937 In the 1930's the Grande Prêmio da Cidade de Rio de Janeiro were held on the infamous 11.16km long Gavea track known locally as Trampolin do Diablo ("The devil's spring board"). This course followed the coast on the edge of a cliff and returned to Gavea up in the mountains where it featured a series of hairpins in hazardous terrain... a wonderful historic course! And the vehicles that raced there ranged from lowly Ford V8's to Alfa's, Ferrari's, Bugatti's and yes - even an Autounion! Click on the attached .pdf below to review this article - it features interesting facts with numerous pictures about an obscure Grand Prix course and the pilots and their cars that navigated it... Enjoy! :yahoo:
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- 3 years ago
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1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special As previously announced, see attached photos of the completed model of the 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special. This model placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500 with Jim Rathmann at the wheel. This model will be run with a custom built Aluminium chassis. The BWA ff050 motor is glued into place with epoxy as is the plastic bracket holder for the extended motor arm/shaft and pinion. A touch of solder was applied to each side of the spring supporting the extended motor shaft. A photo of the body kit. The parts have all been painted in this photo, including the seat, driver, all silver parts and inserts. The inserts do not fit the RS slot wheels, Dart inserts will be used instead. The wheels are RS slot 15x7mm rear and 15x5mm front. Rear tires are the new Dart D7.5. The trued diameter is 23.40mm for the rear and 21.2mm for the front. Track width is 53.65mm rear and 52mm front. Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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HOW WE TALLY FINAL RACE RESULTS For most members, building is a work in progress and it takes time to built up a full inventory of cars to race at every event, especially with this group which has over twenty classes and counting. Members must be encouraged to build as much as possible and allowed to race their builds as much as possible. Having fun should always be the main driver that is given greatest weight by all. I realize this may be a controversial issue but it is not intended to be..., I am raising it only from the point of view of fairness. Fairness is the central theme that we base all our rules on and is also the main point considered in any type of racing. I ask that all members put on your stewards hat and consider this topic without any bias. Assume that you are the adjudicating panel of a racing body, your mandate is to decide what is the fair and proper course of action. I would hope that whatever is decided by the group be applied to future events and will not have any bearing on past events. Currently, all members race the cars that they have built and registered for any particular event. If a member has built only one car, and there are four separate races held at one event, then that member may race their only model in all four races as a separate entrant. At present, that members best result from all four separate races with the same car will be awarded, against all the other members that have not had an opportunity to race the same car repeatedly, in multiple races. The final result awarded to all other members is the result they achieved in only one race-their first and only race with that car. 1) Is the current award method fair to all? 2) Should we continue to award a racer on this basis or would it be more fair for each individual car to be permitted to race as many races as there are at any one event but the result awarded that car should be the result achieved from only the first race that car raced? In other words, after the first race, the member will be allowed to race their car as often as they want in the remaining races but in terms of keeping score, that car will only be considered as a place holder after its first race, it's subsequent race result will not count in the final tally. I look forward to an open discussion on this topic.
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in: R32
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- 6
- 3 years ago
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1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building. Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960). Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy. A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor. I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it. The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view... The lighting is poor in this photo. Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week. Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Indy Roadsters are coming! I'm sure we've all been looking forward to the debut of the Indy Roadsters. After talking to Art at Monday nights race it appears we will have a race scheduled towards the end of this years S32 season. The rules are firming up and here is what we have so far. -Any true, front engined roadster that was registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards to the very last roadster in 1967 is eligible. -Only the FF050 slow motor may be used in a front motor, rear drive configuration with the motor ahead of the cockpit. -Cars must weigh a minimum of 80 grams. -Cars may use any size wheels and tires as long as they represent a reasonably scale appearance. -Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced in are allowed For anyone having trouble locating roadster bodies e-Bay is a great resource. Geodies is a seller that usually has several eligible bodies available and he is willing to combine shipping. Here is a link to a current body on sale https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-32-Bardahl-Ferrari-Indianapolis-resin-body-kit-slotcar/193310078141?hash=item2d022db4bd:g:izcAAOSwDuleJzIi. e-Bay also often has old Eldon roadsters on sale. Rules may need a little polishing going forward but hopefully by keeping things relatively simple we can all rise tothe challenge of building a front engine roadster . I'm looking forward to seeing what we all come up with . Lets get building!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Lotus 25 This is a super shells Lotus 25 body married to a simple scratch built brass and piano wire chassis. The decals applied to this body are from a 1965 Indianapolis Lotus 38. This is a 1.5L car, therefore it is set up with a BWA motor, geared 10P x 23. I wasn't satisfied with the first paint, so the body was soaked in super clean overnight, scrubbed clean and remanded, then repainted. The second attempt. The completed project. Ready to be raced Thanks for looking
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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R32 XL @ Molto VeLoce – September 12, 2020 [seatt-form event_id=63]
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- 3 years ago
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Wheels: 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Gents, for those of you looking to upgrade the wheels on your 1970's Grand Prix cars these are my recommendations: Front: BWA BW13-300-093-375 which take a Small BWA insert and will fit the RM0202 tire (which will need to be trued down significantly); Rear: Part Number PCS321413 "Classic Scalextric F1 Rear" from Pendle which has the typical skinny scalextric rib and will work with SC0105, SC0106 and FL0101 although none of these tires are a direct fit and would need to be glued in place. A small BWA insert will need to be 'tubed' with styrene to enlarge it enough to fit inside the .415" insert opening. One other factor - these wheels do have a small boss for the set screw so make sure you have enough room for them to fit (68.5mm) - otherwise you will need to use single flanged bushings (with the flange on the inside of the bushing holders) - but since the boss is not that large (approx. 2.5mm) they should fit most applications without issue; Both of these front and back wheels are aluminium (which are allowed). Furthermore, there are other rear wheels available, some of which I have yet to try myself but this should get anyone started. Of course, if you are upgrading your wheels you will also want to replace your axle, bushings and crown gear (make sure to keep the mandated ratio however). Cheers! :good:
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- 3 years ago
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Strombecker McLaren M1B Strombecker made some of the nicest molds, and the McLaren M1B, was one of their nicest, and very much to scale,....it is a tiny little bugger !! It really does not look all that great in stock form, sitting high, and without any details/decals. Anyway, it has been sitting in my workroom for eons, and with the forced hometime we are all enduring, I have decided to make it my next build. Trying to make this..............this one is not mine, unfortunately mine is a little worse for wear.......... Into something like this................so a few bits to be made/added. I started with the chassis, as I find these the easy part of the job..........a simple single rail chassis with .047 main rails, set for 2mm+ clearance with 19+ mm tyres. This will be powered by a FF050 motor. I have started the bodywork........removed all bits, opened the vents, (as they should be , they were closed in the original), and added a front diaplane, and a rear spoiler. Still a lot of clean up to do...........but the rear molded in screens/vents have been opened as on the original. The car is tiny,....I think I mentioned that,.....luckily the shortest wheelbase setting on my jig was perfect !! Still miles to go, but, I will post updates...... Stay Safe Chris Walker
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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32 Ford seda hot rod New to this forum. Usually build sports cars but in recent years have delved into domestic hot rods. Had the opportunity to build starting with a resin copy of the old 1/32 Aurora 32 Ford Ski-Doo body. Built a simple ladder chassis with .055" piano wire, .064" brass strip and a JK F1 motor bracket. Power's a Slot It flat can with a Slot It pinion and Plafit crown gear (3mm). Went with a 3mm rear axle as the hot rod rims I had were for that size axle. Fronts are RS Slot Racing rims with tires of unknown origin. Came out well with quite a raked stance. Runs pretty good in a straight line but I really prefer cars that can handle the corners. Dan
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- 3 years ago
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1963 Thunderbird This is a 1/32 scale Gunze Sangyo model kit. I had never heard of these model kits until I saw three models that Ken had built a few months ago. I was inspired by the quality of the parts and the fine details incorporated in this kit and I always loved the look of the Thunderbird. The model falls into the new category of Boulevard Cruisers. A special thanks to Ken who assisted with the chassis build and was a great painting coach. The model comes with a back seat and roof. I preferred the look of the convertible with two seats and head rests. The BWA Scan motor is glued to the chassis using epoxy in an anglewinder configuration. Geared 14 pinion x 30 spur gear. Here is the model with a headless driver. I considered installing a female as the pilot in this model but didn't have a usable torso with bust, therefore A street version pilot without a Helmut will be installed. The kit comes with two different sets of chrome wheels, I carved out the inserts and will be using them to finish this model. Very pleased with how well this car runs. I think the headless driver would have been pulled over for high speed driving if the cops weren't in lockdown mode ;-). Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Paint can spinner I sometimes wake up the house by shaking rattle-cans late at night after everyone else has gone to bed. Oops. Towels and/or rags around the can doesn't seem to help enough. I had to recently create/invent a small bucket-spinner for a customer. That got me to thinking about a paint can spinner. Ingredients: Scrap wood. A few drywall screws. Old 12VDC power supply. Old crappy slot car chassis. Gear-motor from "Princess Auto" surplus department ($15). And about 45-minutes of serious goofing around. :wacko: The chassis was cut apart to use the front axle to balance the drive and give the can 4-points of rotational stability. The tires were removed from the wheels for less rolling resistance. The tires weren't very round anyways. It spins the can about one and a half revolutions per second. Just enough to barely hear the widget rolling around. 20 to 30-minutes of spinning should get the sediment off the base of the can. A few shakes in warm water just before painting should do the rest (hopefully without waking the house).
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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D’Arts Ferrari 612 Can Am I finally finished my D'Arts Ferrari 612 Can Am it sits on my first scratch build bronze chassis, I will take some pictures of the chassis the show everyone what not to do when you are doing a bronze chassis.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Austin Healey 3000 This is an Aurora kit purchased from the Group 25 show in March 2019. The kit body came in 3 pieces, top, and two sides. I really dislike 3 piece kits as they are tricky to fit together and get a good fit, this one was no different as it took a lot of filling and sanding along the joins. I am going to post a series of pictures of specs, body and chassis and hope you enjoy. The paint is Testors Custom Red Metal Flake plus Testors Semi-Gloss Clear. Front indicator and rear tail lights are stick ons from Pendles. Windshield is custom made from brass and painted as no screen was in the kit. Interior is leatherette left over from a chair covering over card stock as original seats would not fit in. As Bugs use to say … that's all folks! C
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts. Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair. Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes. Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Airfix 1933 MG K3 Magnette Hi Gents: I have been interested in this car for its appearance and its history. I’ve had the Airfix kit in my eBay shopping cart for a while, but have decided that I can’t afford it. I’m posting it here in case someone else may be interested in it. It’s the Airfix 8204, 1933 MG K3 Magnette. It is listed at $35 usd, but it’s shipped through eBay’s ‘Global Shipping Program’. This redirects the package from the seller, to a third party facility in Erlanger, KY (often in the opposite direction to the purchaser’s destination), apparently re-packages it then ships it to the purchaser. They also tack on an import charge ‘to cover duties’. In fact, model kits, diecast models, slotcars are all categorized as toys by the Canada Border Services Agency and do not require duties or excise fees, (though they can trigger GST, usually collected by Canada Post). There have also been many complaints from sellers and buyers regarding poor handling, damaged and missing packages at the Erlanger facility. It’s basically another scheme to allow eBay to skim off more money from the purchaser. I have always refused, on principle, to buy anything shipped through their GSP. It looks like a nice kit for our pre-war series, but I don’t know the quality. I have found some of the Airfix kits made in England to be excellent, whereas some others have been terrible in terms of moulding and casting. (This one is made in Texas by USAirfix, and is the 1980 re-box edition.) It is listed at $35 usd (C$50), plus $10.50 ship to Canada, but when you go to buy it, there is an additional $10.50 that shows up as ‘import fees’. That brings the total to $56 usd, or C$82 with the added PayPal exchange surcharge. That’s more than twice my limit for a 32’nd scale model kit. However, someone else in the group may have a higher cost threshold, or may have a US shipping address set up through their business, or through a relative. But even with that, it may still be overpriced. (I’ll still buy one if I can find a fair price.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/USAirfix-Kit-8204-K3-Magnette-MG-1-32-Scale-USAirfix-Plastic-Model-SEALED-NIB/324101968737
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Symmetric Masking Patterns for painting a car body. (This is a generalized and expanded version of some suggestions I made to a member who had said he had experienced some difficulties with masking work. Another member later asked me to place my ideas in this How-To forum.) Finishing a car body often entails some curvilinear shapes that need to be replicated symmetrically between left and right sides of the body. These can range from fairly simple to very complex curves, as shown by various photos below. Lola T70 Can-Am; Dan Gurney and John Surtees. (1966 Bridgehampton won by Gurney, the only Can-Am race won by a Ford engine. Surtees won the first race in this inaugural season, three of the six races in total, as well as the series championship.) Mercedes Benz 300 SL; Factory car, Carrera Pan Americana Ford Daytona Prototype Porsche 917K; Psychedelic/ Hippie In terms of the masking, these symmetric patterns are very difficult to replicate from left to right. I’m not an expert, but I’ve had some success with this approach; you may want to try it on your next finishing job. Buy a few widths of Tamiya masking tape, thin and flexible. Testors also makes a version that you may find useful. Before doing any painting, stick the tape over the areas – on one side of the body, that you want to remain as the light colour. Take a pencil, pen, or marker and draw as smooth an outline of the perimeter shapes you want to achieve. (Doesn’t need to be perfect at this stage.) Find a piece of Lexan (clear plastic sheet) from a container of some sort. Remove the sections of masking tape that you have scribed from one side of the body. Stick those scribed sections of tape spread out onto the Lexan sheet. On the back of the Lexan sheet, stick new strips of tape to coincide with the ones on the front. I have also used wax paper, instead of Lexan, as the middle layer and it also seems to work well. Remember, your original scribing did not have to be perfect; now the next step does have to be perfect! Find a sharp large pair of scissors. Carefully cut a smooth line (through the three layers) along the scribe marks you had made while the tape was on the car body. You now have sections of flexible masking tape back-to-back in symmetric mirror images. Save these until later. You can now start the first stage of painting. Prepare the body with sanding and washes as you see fit. Apply your choice of primer, possibly Tamiya fine grade white, if you intend on using light coloured regions on the body. Do any follow-up smoothing and further preparation; a second coat of primer may be needed. After curing, apply your light colour finish coat. Let cure fully then do any follow-up smoothing. Now, carefully peal the tape pieces from both sides of the Lexan and place them at the corresponding positions on the car body. Make sure they are stretched properly and that the edges are smooth and tightly adhered to the body. You are ready to start spraying the first coat of your second colour (the darker colour). Mist the dark colour over the taped pattern and the rest of the body. Do the appropriate follow-up spray steps. Let the final coat cure partly but not to a full hard shell. Carefully remove the tape masks after the final paint is dry to the touch, but still has a bit of flex. Do any follow-up refinements. You may want to clear-coat at this stage. I should mention that I have not yet applied this method to finishing any 1/32’nd scale bodies. ( I used to use it - with limited precision and success as a ten year old kid, on my IMC and MPC 25’th scale LM bodies. ) With new improvements in tape, I’ve used the method more recently on 24’th scale track bodies. The 32’nd scale bodies are 1/3 smaller than 24’th, therefore the compound curvatures will be higher. If I encounter an adhesion or wrinkle problem with the mask due to increased surface curvature, I intend to use a band of the narrowest masking tape ( a couple of mm wide) and stretch it around the perimeter to smooth out any problem areas. This method is not limited to making mirrored shapes between left and right sides of the body. It can be applied to central shapes that need to be symmetric, such as waterfalls patterns. Scribe your pattern near the centre on one side of the body, mark an axis of symmetry, remove the scribed mask from the body, place your line of symmetry along the straight edge of your Lexan sheet, then wrap your scribed masking tape around the front and back of the Lexan. You are now ready to move to the smooth cutting step. You will end up with a mask that is symmetric but is this time, a single pattern to be applied along the centreline of the body. Lotus 49, Ford/Cosworth; Team Lotus. Jim Clark, pole sitter of 1967 Italian Grand Prix, fell to 3’rd due to a faulty fuel pump on the last lap. Hope this works well for you; I’m no expert. You should be able to improve on the method. Felix. I used to be one of the sharpest tools in the shed; now I’m just a slot-head !
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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New Car Carrier I bought a new car carrier at the last slot car show. I still need to install a hingle for the lid and handle at the top. It should be able to carry 6-cars plug the controller. The rig stays attached. It will be a bit hard to carry around. But it is sure to get some interesting reactions. Actually, it's just for a diorama. The NASCAR snap-together Peterbilt truck came with a cool machine shop where the purple Mini is sitting. The shop tools are 2-vices, a drill press, and a belt sander with a grinding wheel. I still prefer a breadbox as a car carrier. :good:
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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- 3 years ago
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Looking Ahead – Scratch32 Rules Update Gents, Looking ahead and given feedback to date we'll be implementing a few updates to our scratch32 rules (v4) for this summer. These will be: restricting the 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP) class motor to the BWMS050 ONLY and removing the VANSKI as an option - since they have not been available for many years now - VANSKI motors are still eligible for other low power motor scratch32 classes (unless specifically excluded); adding a pre-CANAM class covering 1960-1965 USRRC & SCCA models - which will be divided into PC and PC+ subclasses; and adding an open Trans Am class (TA+) (1966 - 1973) which will allow period fantasy liveries and have no motor restriction. The second update was already tested in our last CANAM Thunder event and the third will be implemented for CANAM Thunder IV...
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- 3 years ago
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Jag XK120 Carrera Panamericana This build was inspired by DB's white XK120. He also gave me the body. Thanks Dave! I was looking to build another Carrera Panamericana car. I found a gentleman by the name of Frank Hern that drove an XK120 in the 1952 race. He did not finish due to an accident. It's my least favorite colour. But "British Racing Green" is extemely accurate for the times of the Carrera Panamericana. :wacko: I love the spats! D'Art blue dot tires on old CB wheels. Use what you got!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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What type of Aston Martin is this? I saw a kit like this on EBay and it made me curious if there was a real Aston that looked like the one on the box? Or could the drawing be a little off?
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 3 years ago
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Cadillac, Cadillac, Cadillac Eldorado Well I started work on the '57 Caddy Brougham. Ken's comparison pic with his Nascar reminded me that I had a little used scratch chassis under my Petty Plymouth so I thought I could probably re-purpose the chassis to fit under the Caddy. Wheelbase needs a bit of a stretch but fortunately I can add an additional axle tube in front of the existing tube so I can convert the chassis back and forth if needed. Cheers! Bill
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Avoiding dust in paint This is just about my bad experiences with dust. Not how to apply paint. There's no bigger dissapointment than leaving your paint almost perfect with the last wave of the spray can and coming back to... fresh paint covered with dust or pet hair. I had to sit back and think of the many possible reasons that could affect the final finish. Any one alone could easily ruin a paint-job. 1) Dog 2) Cat 3) Shop tools (bandsaw, belt sander) 4) Forced air heat/AC 5) My wife doing things around the house such as laundry 6) My own clothes I created a system to try and combat every possible angle I could think of. This is starting out with a body that's already prepared for paint. The basement kitchen fan is used to evacuate the fumes. The entire area around and behind the oven-top is lined with cardboard and black garbage bags. Now I can explain a process that seems to work for this household. 1) I start the basement kitchen fan around 10PM. Throw a paint can on a stirring device. Then go upstairs closing the door behind me to leave the basement undisturbed until midnight (No pets allowed). The kitchen fan has time to remove ambient dust around the paint area. 2) I turn the heat/AC off around 11PM. 3) At around midnight the rest of the house goes to bed and I slowly and carefully make my way to basement closing the door behind me to keep the pets upstairs. I walk very slowly to prevent stirring dust up from the floor. 4) I head to the landry room first to put on a fresh T-shirt and jeans. Pet hair is the worst! 5) I give the body a fresh wash. Then rinse in filtered water to avoid residue. Dry the body with a dust-free towel. It's ready for paint. 6) Heat the can that's been stirring for the last 2-hours in hot water for 2-minutes. It's ready to paint. I paint the body with 4-coats using a 1-minute timer between coats. After 4-minutes of painting I slowly walk back upstairs, close the basement door, and watch TV for an hour. After an hour I turn the heat/AC back on and go check the paint. Hopefully I go to bed with a smile. I installed exhaust outlets on my belt sander and bandsaw that fit the shop-vac to help keep the residual shop dust down. But prefer not to cut or sand anything the day I paint a body. I wish everyone the best of luck in finding your own way to paint without that dreaded dust thing. :good:
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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D’Art inserts in Slot.It wheels made easy I have some regular Slot.It wheels and wanted to install a specific D'Art insert that's only supposed to fit a standard RS-Slot wheel. I bought a package of standard Slot.It inserts and gently sanded down the spokes to pop out the center and expose the outer ring by itself. It was easy to press the D'Art insert into the ring. I could not get the inserts out of the rings once they were pressed in. I'll use a drop of glue to make sure they don't move. I used 150-grit sand paper. It took 15-minutes of sanding by hand to get the spokes out from the outer rings. The belt sander would have disolved/melted the inserts in seconds. Slow is sometimes better. Now anyone can install just about any standard 14mm D'Art insert in almost any 15"-inch Slot.It wheel. The sky is the limit. Thanks for looking, Ken
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in: How To – Build It
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- 3 years ago
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Cooper Ford T61 With nothing on the workbench. Time to get started on something new specifically for the 1960-1965 SCCA series. I purchased this body kit from Professor Motor and somehow managed to get most of it completed a little at a time between all the other cars I've built. The last thing to do was to make a chassis. Not what I would call the right order to do things, but it is what it is. Making the chassis first would avoid scratching the paint. But that would take patience. Whatever that is... A BWNC1 was supposed to go in this car at first. Then I ran into some clearance problems with the larger motor. A BWMS050 should hopefully do the job. I know what I'm doing over the holidays... Assembly. I would like to wish the entire group at S32/R32 a very Merry Christmas! Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Race To Line vs. Race To Laps & Rotate On Time Some of you remember the days of SRO and SS32 when many hosts used SRM, a DOS based timing system. The advantage was that you could take an old DOS based piece of sh*t and give it renewed purpose. Each host used their own preferred timing method with this software. One method (and the best one in my opinion) allowed everyone to race for a set amount of laps in every lane and the total time to complete their laps would be used to determine the race finish order with the fastest (lowest) time winning. This worked well enough with the one huge drawback that no heat was finished until the last car ran its total number of laps. You didn't need power shut off for this timing method and you could make the timing hardware yourself. Other hosts used the old school timing method whereby every racer would start at the same point on the track (usually the start/finish line) and then race with the others for a set amount of time in each heat, rotating into another lane from the point at which they stopped, or out, or in, depending on rotation order. After power for the final heat switched off you would look at the screen to see the total laps run by every racer and ties would need to be manually recorded based on finishing track position, with the car finishing more of the lap placing higher. Often the track would be divided into 1/10ths to make tracking finish position easier. Several drawbacks existed when using this method: the racers were often spread out and on longer tracks there was little passing or excitement, cheating was possible when rotating your car (especially after sitting out a while) and the results often needed to be tabulated manually. Then came along SlotTrak which allowed an additional timing method of 'race to line' along with refueling. (To Be Continued)
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- 3 years ago
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Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed... The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers!
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- 4 years ago
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Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body. The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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1951 Indy Kurtis Offy Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process on one using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis. For the rear maybe the same with the chassis linked in to the brass tubing but need to think that through. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.
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in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 14
- 4 years ago
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66 Shelby Mustang I was asked to build a car for a friend. What better way to pass the time. The body is a Monogram GT-350. I have the exact same car in white. It was a fun way to test the accuracy of the original drawing. The request was "Keep it low, but keep it level". Thanks for looking
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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And now for something completely different F1 Racing Sim Hey guys I've been gathering up a lot of stuff over the last couple years to put this together but never had time to get it all going properly. Well due to the covid lock down I took a couple days to see if this would actually work and finally after many hours of farting around with various monitor/cable/graphics card configurations and giving up many times in frustration it actually works!! I conveniently happen to have a curved octagonal wall at the end of my basement where I have 3 cheapy projectors hooked up to an older render farm computer I picked up reasonably cheap. 3.2 GHz processor with dual Nvidia Quadro 4800 graphics cards, 8 gigs of ram. Not super powerful by today's standards but still no slouch. I'm running a copy of F1 2011 as that is the most recent sim I've got. I actually bought it in 2012 and never had a system good enough to run it until now. The effect is pretty cool as you can look to the side and see stuff flashing by. Picture isn't as crisp as on led monitors but it is usable. Total viewing area is about 5 ft by about 25 ft or 5760 by 1080 pixels I've also got a small surround audio system with sub I plan to hook up to get the full effect. Anyway thought you might like to see my little side project even though it isn't slot related it is racing after all. Now to build the cockpit and detail the driver ;^)
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 4 years ago
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Salivary Exchange at the Track ! That’s a very strange title! But, a relevant one in our era of viral epidemics. Hello gentlemen racers, and fellow ‘slot addictos’. (I posted this on the weekend; it was listed for a while then disappeared.) Saliva, secreted by the salivary glands inside the mouth, is primarily water but holds a very large collection of cells, molecules and compounds, including white blood cells, epithelial cells, enzymes such as salivary amylase for the initial breakdown of carbohydrates, and many other components. Apparently, one millilitre of saliva contains up to 8 million human cells and 500 million bacterial cells. So what has this to do with scale racing? Well, a popular method of cleaning tires for the track is to put a layer of saliva on one’s thumb and rub it along, through, and into the tire contact surface. It seems to be effective in gaining traction! Of course, a good proportion of the contents of that first person’s saliva is transferred from his tires into the track. Another person’s car later runs on the same lane and his tires pick up the salivary components left by the first person’s tires. When that second person cleans his tires by the same technique, repeatedly putting thumb to mouth, the second person now has a good number of cells and molecules from the first person’s saliva. I know we are all friends, but I don’t think we all want to be that friendly! (No need to further expand on the health consequences generated by this practice.) Now, coming from sponge tire use, I’ve never had occasion to practice this method of improving traction, nor had I any inclination to apply it previously, when I was using urethane tires. For those, I usually carried a small bottle of water and applied a drop to my tires. The first track of Arts that I saw was a few years ago, the MVL track. He had invited me to the Friday track cleaning and prep session before the scheduled Saturday race. (I couldn’t attend the race day because I had a 24’th scale one already scheduled for the same day, and I was doing the tech inspection of all the cars.) To that Friday pre-race session, I brought along a couple of 32’nd scale cars, and my 24’th scale Porsche 962 Lowenbrau, as well as a tire cleaning kit I had constructed. I cleaned each of the rear tires with my kit, before running them on the track. The previous night, I had already removed my sponge-tire rear wheels from the 24’th scale car and replace them with a set of rims with urethane tires, wheels that I had sitting in a pill vile for the previous five years. (The chassis was brass base-plate and phenolic suspension-plate that I had designed.) Art let me run the car when no one else was on the track. I could not believe it; I had never seen such good traction on that car, with any tire - sponge or urethane, on any track surface - treated or untreated! (Those urethane tires had been cleaned only with water.) Photo of my 24’th scale Porsche 962 on MVL track; (body a bit beat up from years of racing, but I bought a spare when they were still available). The tire cleaning kit I built is a fairly simple design, not my invention; I just made a few improvements to one I had seen long ago. It’s made from a small plastic food storage bin in which I cut a slot into the lid and attached brass conducting strips to contact the car brushes. The bin itself stores a sponge wetted with water, a transformer-rectifier wall plug, a 9V dry cell, all the wiring and connectors. I set it up so I could use it on the bench with the wall plug, or use it portable at trackside with the optional dry cell. That allows quick cleaning of the rear tires in between heats, if the ruleset permits. It’s very simple and easy, and works better than spit ! Photo of my cleaning kit as would be used; ( I’ve thrown in a few other cars to compare 32’nd, 24’th and 18’th scales. ) Hope you find this a bit useful. Felix. I used to be one of the sharpest tools in the shed; now I’m just a slot-head !
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in: Local Slot Car Groups
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- 4 years ago
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Model Scriber This is the picture of the scriber that I used for the Auto Union
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 914 Targa Florio Hello Guys, I just finished my Porsche 914, I made a lots of mistakes trying to use masking for the two colors and it shows all the corrections I had to make and I still need to find some stickers to match the livery and maybe it will help me hide some of the mistakes
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- 4 years ago
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Auto Union Type C D’Arts
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- 4 years ago
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Alfa Romeo 8C
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- 4 years ago
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Ferrari 1512
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 914 I just finished my Porsche 914, I made many mistakes trying to use two colors and had a hard time covering them, I need to find more decals to finish the correct livery and help me hide some of the imperfections.
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- 4 years ago
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1951 INDIANAPOLIS KURTIS OFFY Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis just epoxied in place. I am undecided whether to use wire or a brass plate for the chassis so that needs more thought. On the body I am using Cheetah manifold headers, have expanded the carburetor air intakes and will use chrome carbs from another model and will add a chrome fuel cap – holes all drilled. Wheels are from RSSlots and are spare from my Bugatti build. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Can you I.D. This kit? I found this at a show a few years ago. It looks like a Monogram static kit from the 60's based on the bottom chassis piece but the interior has Strombecker body mounting posts. Interestingly for a static kit, it also has aluminum Revell like rims and rubber tires on threaded metal axles. Not quite a Lola T70. ie different windshield and body details. Intake was missing so I added a D'Art Hobbies aftermarket intake. It may make it to the track at some point in the future.
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 4 years ago
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1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32 (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34 Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires. Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit: Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements. It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.) Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Inactive User Accounts Gents, With more than 100 user accounts the beginning of the decade is a good time to clean up our home - so I've initiated our website to automatically reset the passwords of inactive accounts. Accounts for which temporary passwords are not changed will be deleted automatically. Cheers! Art
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- 4 years ago
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Removing Decals or Tampo Print – Super Clean Sometimes you just want to remove the livery from a nicely painted body before priming. If you do not, then you compromise the quality and adhesion of the new paint, not to mention that you may see the raised edges of the prior tampo afterwards. To do this you can use 'Super Clean' - Tough Task Cleaner-Degreaser typically found in a 3.78L purple container: You can source Super Clean from Canadian Tire, among other retailers. To get your best bang for the buck you can re-use the same fluid on multiple bodies/parts - I like the dollar store clear plastic containers which come in various sizes with a snap on rubber gasket lid - like the 8"l x 5"w x 3"h (I'm guessing there) Betty Crocker storage containers (with the red lid). Let the pieces sit and soak for days (or even a week if necessary). If anything remains remove it with gentle rubbing (or a non-abrasive brush). Rinse in clean water and dry. You've now removed traces of the old livery and can either prime/re-paint or apply new decals...
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- 4 years ago
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D’Art Shadow DN1 With the Ringwood around the corner. I have race classes to fill. I painted this lovely body last July. Time to get the chassis started. With the tires glued and trued. I can start to map out the chassis. Anyone need chassis plans for a DN1? :mail: The driver and helmet were easy enough to complete. Two-part helmet and visor are a nice touch. Chassis is ready for drilling and cutting. :good:
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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ZL1 Corvette Stingray The second Anatoly Arutunoff Corvette is well under way. Like the first. This car is built in honour of the man, and his efforts to enter the Targa Florio in 1971. The first Vette has a Scalex motor in line with the 327 that should have entered the race in 1970. This one is more in line with Anatoly's 1971 - 427 Vette in that it has a Fox-10 for open class racing. I hope it will be completed by this week. I learn something with each build. I left nothing on the table with respect to how close the body sits on the chassis on this one. Any lower and the tires touch the inside of the fenders. Perfect! :good: I tried to make this a sidewinder but the motor hits the bearing flange before the gears mesh properly. You can see where I shaved the aluminum past the bearing flange. I even tried to angle it, but there is not enough room to work with in this size aluminum tubing. By the time the gears mesh, the motor is well into the tire area. Back to inline we go. *mumble* :scratch: Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Major Update Coming Next Week to Scratch32 Folks, I must apply a manual update to our website but since there is a great chance things may no longer work as they do now (or not at all) I'm leaving it for later this week (November 8th or 9th) when I'll have extra time to wait on hold for technical support if things go off the rails. Sorry about that. BTW, this update should not change anything if it goes according to plan - so you won't notice anything if it is successful. :unsure: Cheers!
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- 4 years ago
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Morris Mini Cooper I found a Morris Mini Cooper in the 1972 Targa Florio. I also found an appropriate car to get this project off to a good start. As you can see by the photo on the right, the car is "Plum Crazy Purple" in colour. That should be a cool addition to the other liveries. The drivers for car #51 were Matteo Sgarlata and Joe Anastasi. Class = S1.6. Sponsored by = STP. I need to open the wheel openings in the fenders to fit the 13"-inch wheels/tires. That will give me an opportunity to make those crazy looking fenders. The motor is a tight fit with the stock interior. I will need to get very creative with this little car if I want to lower it with bigger wheels, and still keep an interior with a driver. Fun looking car. It was a nice surprise to find out it has working head lights and tail lights. Since this build is not about speed. I'm going to try and keep them. Look out green Giliberti cause a purple Mini will be on the hunt! All in good fun of course.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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D'Art Porsche 550 Spyder I painted this car last July. The body should be safe to handle by now. Someone suggested I expand my build threads so others can learn how to duplicate my mistakes. Careful what you wish for. I measured the wheelbase and mapped out the chassis. Then I installed axle spacers on all 4-corners to help figure out the track width as well as center the chassis to the body when I glue in the body posts. I will remove the rear axle spacers after cutting the axles to length on final assembly. The front axle spacers remain in place to keep the independent wheels centered. 5mm spacing per corner was just right for this combination of parts. The chassis lays down nicely in the body. The tires are touching the inside of the top of the fenders at this point. But avoid the sides of the fenders. The build is self-slamming. I used to scratch my head on how to figure out the length of the posts. Toothpicks are a handy measuring device. I'm looking forward to seeing this car run. This will be the lowest car I've ever built. If this car runs half as good as the RS61? It will be a blast to drive! :yahoo:
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Installing new braids in guides This is one way to install new braids/wire. I'm certain there are many variations. First, tin the motor. I gently roll the wire with a razor knife to barely cut a line into the shielding so as not to cut the core. The shielding pulls off with a small tug without taking any precious wire with it. You want the entire copper core if you can. The wires are cut to length to go past the guide by about 20mm. 4mm of the shielding is stripped on the motor end and about 8mm from the guide end. The loose core is twisted to prevent fraying. The small ends are tinned, and soldered to the motor. The long end that goes into the braid is folded in half to help the set-screw grip the wire. It also lessons the strain that might prematurely fatigue the wire. Have the following tools ready to go. Small razor/knife, 2mm set-screw pre-installed in the driver, and a very small flat-screw driver. Slide the braid through the guide. Use the knife to open the braid in the center just enough to fit the small screw-driver. Open the braid enough so the wire can easily fit. Slip the folded wire into the braid until the shield meets the braid. Make sure the wire is closest to the inside, or center of the guide. Then slid it into the guide and install the 2mm set-screw outside the braid, in the center hole. Repeat on the opposite side keeping the wire close to the inside again. Keeping the wires near the inside of the guide keeps the total movement of the wire to a minimum. It has less fatigue on the wire making it last longer. Less strain on twisting the guide helps the car slip through corners. Thanks for looking. Ken
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in: How To – Build It
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- 4 years ago
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Wheels: Sportscar, Classic Stock Car, Trans Am & 1960's G.P. (Group 2) If you still have a set of the BW15-275-093-375 or BW15-275-093-450 consider yourself very lucky. For those that do not the CB Design Insert Wheels (15 x 7mm) PART NUMBER IW1507S are an appropriate and cost effective aluminium wheel to use in any of the following classes: Sportscar Classic Stock Car Trans Am 1960's Grand Prix (Group 2 Cars - ONLY) Classic LeMans (for any car taking narrow wheels, such as the Carrera 6) Some of the confusion stems from the fact that for the CB Design line of 15" wheels it is unclear what the 15 stands for (likely scale 15") added to the fact that with each wider version of the 15 series wheel the overall diameter changes. The IW1507S measures 14.06mm in diameter and 7mm in width which accords with our R32 rules for these classes. Other wider versions of the 15 series may be too large in diameter and therefore not permitted under R32 rules. (The reason stems from the fact that in any fixed gear class you can change the gearing by using a taller wheel/tire combination.) Nevertheless the IW1507S remains a competitively priced, readily available and safe bet alternative to the old BWA wheels for each class listed above. It makes sense to buy a bunch and then know that they are eligible for several of our classes. Of course there are other makes and types out there, some of which are also eligible for some of the classes listed herein. The IW1507S takes any DArt D8 or D9 tire (or other Ninco classic alternative). Glue on your tires for best performance - when gluing make sure that the rib in the tire is tightly set against either side of the rib to ensure there is no wobble. [One difference between the BWA wheel and the CB Design wheel is that the wheel 'rib' is a hair narrower on the CB than the BWA.] If you do not wish to glue on your tire then the NC0202 or SC0805 tires are the most snug fit. No truer? Then stick to the NC0202. You can try your luck at RaceHaven if Ron has them in stock, or at MiniGrid, or you can order from Slot Car Corner Canada at: http://www.slotcarcorner.ca/cb-design-insert-wheels/ I now have inserts to fit these wheels. The inner diameter for sizing inserts is .490" (or 12.45mm). There are three insert wheel styles which fit these wheels: 490steel60; 490mag5snut & 490minilite, but more will be added over time. Note: These wheels may be listed as 'made in Canada' but there is nothing Canadian about their manufacture, nevertheless they remain a suitable and well performing alternative for several of our classes and therefore worth suggesting here. -Art
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