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1968 Trans Am ‘Cinderella story’ video Hello Scratchers (Hmmm, does that sound right) :yahoo: Pretty cool video, 1968 Trans Am Javelin. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/yDJ6BhUrsak
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 5 years ago
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1969 CANAM Piper Ferrari 612 (No. 43) This period fantasy livery uses a DArt body kit and will have a scratch built chassis underneath mounted using one screw/body post behind the front axle and two clips for wire uprights just behind the molded tailpipe shell detail. Who better a pilot to place in this unreliable rocket than the other Polish Prince (not Marek) - Tony Adamowicz! After applying a dark green base coat and fixing the mounting post/clips we were ready for the next step - decals. 29 of the 34 decals used were printed using my standard inkjet printer and coated with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (as I do with all of the decals I make). Regarding the five store bought decals used – three were rectangular Monogram white blank number plates with a black pinstripe border and two were Pattos Ferrari badge decals – in hindsight I was disappointed with both the opacity and misaligned pin stripe on the white blank Monogram number plates (but it gives the model character) and should have just printed my own along with the Pattos Ferrari badges since I am really not a fan of their low resolution. Nevertheless the project turned out just fine. The decals will be left to dry for a few days and after some cleaning up the body will be ready for two clear coats (yet to be determined), then some detail painting and a dark wash. I haven’t decided if I want to paint or decal the spoiler orange yet… no rush… ...stay tuned!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Event Pictures Gents, From this point forward, pictures for all entries presented for events will be taken prior to the start. Additional pictures may be taken at the conclusion of the event, but this will be the exception.
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Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.
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Group-25 Model Car Builders meeting invitation Group-25 has extented an invitation to the S32/R32 slot car club to join them for an afternoon of model and slot car building show & tell. We can share our skills with each other about building, painting, detailing, etc... These are the guys hosting the Slot Car and Model show in March. Please bring some of your cool stuff to show. There will be a track or two set up for some beater cars that can afford to break. Don't expect to run your nice cars there. The track is merely for newbie entertainment and to get people interested in slot cars. That's our goal too. Just as an example. DB can show off his green Ford Tudor he just brought to the Carrera Panamericana. The wiper blade marks on the windshield and general weathering are cool and inspirational. We can learn from these guys too. Some of the Group-25 members are master-builders. Check out some of the pics on their site from previous meetings. https://www.group25.org/meetings.htm The date - Feb 9th. The time - 3pm until 7pm. Location - Armour Heights Community Center on the southwest corner of Avenue road and Wilson avenue. Take Avenue Road exit and head south of the 401 to the first light. Here is a photo of the cool stuff various members gave to me for free to make into slot cars. Nice bunch of people. The file and brush are Christmas gifts from Cindy and Marty at Toys4Everyone. Everyone in the club got them. I hope a few can join us for a day of fun. Thank you. Ken
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in: Local Events & Happenings
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Lotus 30 – Why It Failed – Article "Sometimes there are good grounds for saying "it'll never work". To paraphrase the famous Richie Ginther quip, the Lotus 30 was a 40 with 10 fewer mistakes. But still too many to make it anything better than occasionally successful, even in the hands of Jim Clark. Ever the loyal Lotus professional, Clark did what he could with the car but, like everyone else who drove the 30, he disliked it, and it sometimes got away even from him. Designed to compete in 'big-banger' racing against Lola and McLaren, the 30 sold quite well in 1964 — 21 were built — but quickly earned a reputation for evil handling. An improved Series 2 version was prepared for 1965, but only 12 of them were made. Although the 30's modified 4.7-litre 350bhp Ford Fairlane V8 was inferior to the Chevy opposition, that was the least of its problems. One person who foresaw the car's failure was Lotus's own Len Terry, but his concerns were largely ignored. "Colin Chapman gave me the scheme and asked for my comments," recalls Terry. "I studied it for two days and by the end I'd produced a critique covering two foolscap pages. Of all that I considered wrong with the car, the only thing he agreed to change was boxing in the rear chassis members. That was it. He was not prepared to change anything else. That's when I told him somebody else would have to draw the car because I didn't want my name attached to it." To read the article view the attached .pdf which can be found below these images.
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Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use.
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1950 Carrera Panamericana Video Here's a short video from the first Carrera Panamericana narrated by driver Jack McAfee and filmed (mostly in car from the front seat) by his co-pilot Ford Robinson - they went on to finish 10th in the race. https://youtu.be/sXk1jQU7Kxg
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La Carrera Panamericana Blank Plates (1950) Found this recently - here's a blank plate for the 1950 Carrera - just add your number and print the decal on white decal paper:
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Super Macro as a building tool I remember finishing my first car and being all proud of it. Then I took a bunch of pictures. After examining the photos I thought "Is this the car I just built? Look at all the flaws!!! The build threads I posted have all been an eye opener from what the naked eye can see, and what the camera can see. I make it a habit now to take many more pictures of my builds than I post. I do it now just to catch details my eye did not detect. It helps keep my building standards a bit higher. Ken
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in: How To – Paint It
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Copper Tape Repair Across Power Taps – Courtesy KK Quoted From KK to others in SOS: I stumbled upon this little repair trick I thought I’d share with all the copper tape track owners I know out there. I have had a few issues with the tape tearing up where the power taps were installed recently and they can be difficult to re-solder once torn. I recently purchased some copper foil shielding tape for my guitars and it comes with “conductive adhesive” on the back. I used the 2” roll and cut 6 - 3/8” strips x 2” and placed them across the power tap locations Sunday afternoon. This tape is far thinner than the original tape I used and so far they are holding up nicely. With a multi meter there is absolutely no power drop or loss across the 2” repaired section. I also tried to remove a piece and it comes up without hurting the tape below. The problem spots were re-soldered and filed down smooth before applying the thin conductive adhesive copper tape layer on top. It actually smooths things out a bit and takes away the little click as the cars pass over the power tap. I will continue to monitor and report back if I find any issues that may arise with this type of repair but after about 1,000 laps there is no sign of wear, lifting or power issues of any sort. Thankfully all of my tap joints are in the middle of long straights and therefore should never really be much of a problem should there be some sort of minimal power fade in the future. This conductive adhesive shielding tape for guitars can be found for about $5.00 on ebay and Aliexpress. I also have tons of it in 1”, 2” and 4” rolls for my guitar cavities and back plates should anyone care to just try a piece themselves on a problem spot. The three lane section I tried this on used all of a 2 1/4” x 2” piece of tape and looking back I probably could have used the narrower 1” roll to do this. From JMSracer: Thank you for sharing this, your repairs looks very clean and seamless. I haven’t had any issues with tape lifting or tearing at the power taps only little on a couple of my tight turns but this is a great solution for a quick repair. From DArt: Excellent! :good: :good: :good: :good:
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Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Airfix MGB Sports model I bought this kit at the Torcan model show. The kit dates back to 1967. Nice to find an old gem like this. Worth doing the build. I hope to have it finished by the weekend and race it at the Dale in just under 2-weeks. SP-slow class. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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C3 Corvette I found this kit a while back. The body is reasonable. I like the car. I was the kid on the bike in the background when this car was new in 69.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Bugatti Type 59 I thought I would join in on the pre-war builds. Anyone doing a 1934 Bugatti Type 59? I spied a kit, so before I buy I wanted to check with the group. Thanks Dave Dave
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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WordPress Update Recently our service provider automatically updated our website software (Wordpress) to a new version - v 5 - which now uses blocks - and with this has created a number of challenges for me to deal with on the back end. Things should be transparent on the front end however. I need to come to grips with these changes so I apologize for the delays with adding new content... :wacko:
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Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead. :good: The assembly begins... Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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63 Split window Corvette Stingray We had a workshop recently where we drilled a chassis for roller bearings and a guide. The chassis fits a 63 split window coupe kit made by AMT.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Several Updates… and a few Upgrades! Gentlemen, Over the past few weeks we've had a multitude of updates added to our humble little corner in this universe - and one that failed - so after many many hours of confligulating annurosis and conjugulations to the untowards things were finally stabilized. I've never been closer to a pale shade of white than I was recently during those harrowing steps... but all is good that ends well and which is unnoticed by most... So upwards and onwards Blitzen, Ruben & Bacardi - hmmmm - something isn't right - yes - the order.... One upgrade featured alternate randomly generated user avatars - monsters - and since we are all sick of the tapestry avatars the monsters looked fabulous so I checked that box instead... funny how that spurred some to add their own avatar now... but like the screenplay says - nothing is foolish - it only gets better!!!! If you think that was subtle - take a closer look around - you might discover something... :wacko:
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- 5 years ago
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Eldon/Shelby GT-350 body revival I bought a few 1/32 Eldon bodies when I was 10-years old. Reviving a few of these cars has been on my bucket list for the last umm... 46-long years. Anyone interested?
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Vanski – Death Row – May, 2019 Execution – Sportscars Only Gents, As a heads up and given that the Vanski motor has been unavailable for many, many years now - we will be the first group in Southern Ontario to eliminate these motors from our Scratch32 and R32 1950's & 1.5L Grand Prix classes. This will have no effect on sportscars where they will continue to be permissible. We'll focus on the definition of 'low power motors' to effect this change... Over the winter you might want to consider moving some of your inventory to other groups - where they will be sought after... Cheers!
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Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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New Classifieds Plug In Gents, I've settled on an alternate classifieds plug in which works fine - Not my first choice but it is still good - and FREE! Many more things to configure... I'll have a few ads posted tonight to verify that everything works as it should for any registered user... :good:
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PGP Insert Detail x2 Those of you interested in the upcoming Coppa D'oro and more specifically our new pre-war class (PGP/PGP+) have already worked with the new DArt pre-war wheel/tire/insert package. This is the recommended package for the class which comes with a choice of three inserts. Another new option for you: Using the same wheel I've taken two of the 20 spoke inserts and sanded one (the white one in this example) down to a thickness of approx. 1mm and placed it behind an original sized insert (the grey one) to see how it looks. You be the judge. It took me approx. 5 minutes to do this using both a coarse grit sandpaper, finer sandpaper and a sharp exacto knife. For best results I would suggest that you spray both the spoked inserts with your choice of Tamiya TS (or airbrush acrylic) and the wheels. Adding a black or dark grey wash (or any contrasting colour) to the inside of the wheel will make the spoke detail pop. Since most of the kits come with centre nuts or knock offs use them to finish the centre... So this is a fourth insert alternative for those of you building models for the Coppa. I'll be using this technique for both the Alfa 8C and the Mercedes SSK wheels that I am preparing for myself. Those of you who might still need a wheel package let me know - I've got 4 or 5 sets completed - now I am working on white tires for early models...
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Race Transporter Reference Drawings I wasn't sure where to post this so please feel free to move this thread. I was recently pointed to a thread on Slotforum that contains scale plans by Mike Sells for many vintage race transporters. Anyone feeling ambitious and need a winter project? https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182130&hl=%2Btransporter+%2Bplan Cheers Bill
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Classifieds Plug In Removed After several software and plug in upgrades on Sunday our Classifieds plug in broke - I've been working on fixing this over the past day but I haven't had any luck - so I've disabled it for the time being and will work on a fix or a suitable alternative - my apologies for the inconvenience.
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Controller brake pots I just shorted out my controller recently and created a dead spot on the brake pot. After doing some research, this is what I found out. The following is pasted from Andrew Smith, CEO at Professor Motor. One important tech tip to help the brake pot – when finished racing turn the pot always to the “full brake” position so that IF the controller is hooked up incorrectly then the circuit breaker that is on the circuit board will protect the pot – if the brake is not at “full” when a controller is misconnected the short circuit that the pot sees will likely cause damage. No need to add a fuse .. there is already a self resetting electronic circuit breaker that we designed in on the circuit board .. that circuit breaker replaced the fuse that we used to use years ago … but any fuse or breaker is not effective if the pot is partially on (unfortunately) Ken
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in: Slot Car Resources
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Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings The key to keeping axles true to each other is in the set up. I measure and scribe everything before I start drilling. I always start with a pilot drill. It can be used to lightly poke an accurate spot indicating if you're on target. Drills are too long and flexible to check for accuracy that way. I don't need a digital readout this way and use an inexpensive $75 drill press.
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in: How To – Build It
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Model Database & Model Gallery Updated Our Database and Galleries are updated to include the latest Carrera Panamericana models...
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Group 25 Model Car and Model Slot Car Show Flyer – Saturday, September 29
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Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.
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in: Slot Car Resources
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An ALLARD – KURTIS SPECIAL? PANAMERICANA ? An ALLARD - KURTIS SPECIAL - PANAMERICANA ? Fantasy . Hi guy's, I'm well new here and came across some nice coloured photo's of A K Miller's "Iron Horse" and also noticed in my book, that Tony Bettenhausen had run a Kurtis - Chrysler in the 1953 La Carrera. Now I don't know of any 1/32 kit's for the above BUT I do know George Turner Model's produces a very nice Allard J 2, that I fancy getting. (Big smile). So a few pic's off Google and maybe an up-date of a build in 12 month's time. The GTM in it's wooden 'buck' format. The Resin model, with co-driver. The Inspiration. A Kurtis - Lincoln 1954 Although there are quite a few photo's of Tony Bettenhausen's Kurtis - Chrysler # 21 on Google, I was unable to 'lift' any.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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Adding a Face & Shield to that Helmet For Targa V I re-entered my Porsche 908/2 with pilot Gijs van Lennop (red helmet) at the wheel but felt that another racing upgrade was necessary - not to the motor or chassis - but to the pilot's helmet. The DArt HT70 comes in two pieces - helmet and opaque visor - so I decided to remove the visor and add some facial detail by cutting a cross section of HD05 - enough to fit inside the helmet - which I painted complete with fire resistant balaclava. I sliced off both sides of the original opaque visor, painted them flat black and added them to either side of the visor gap, but before doing so made a template from which to cut the visor. I hate working with thin pieces of brittle transparency and so for the visor I decided to experiment with something much easier to cut and handle... Using the template I traced and cut out a slightly larger piece from a clear plastic bag (yes - the same bags that all of the DArt parts come in) and placing a very small drop of clear epoxy on either side (where the visor pivots would be) I added the clear plastic visor making sure that it was tight across the face of the helmet as the glue set. After this dried a small drop of silver paint would be added on either side of the visor as visor pivots and to help cover up where the epoxy was applied. The upgraded visor and helmet performed flawlessly - and more are on my 'to do' list for other models. :yes: Total cost was $3.50 (HT70 $2.50 + HD05 $1 + bag they both come in)...
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Coppa D’oro Trials Some time was found to run trials for the new Scratch32 Golden Era Pre-War models - and so the Coppa D'oro was born.[foogallery id="8039"] After nearly a century it is never too late...
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Ferrari 750 Monza Scaglietti Here is an extensively modified Ferrari 290MM body kit which was turned into a 750 Monza as raced by Fon Portago in the final edition of La Carrera Panamericana. A single plastic exhaust (with exposed muffler) is used on the left hand side - and the exposed tail pipe is aluminium tube attached to the chassis. And in an effort to keep the look of this model period any temptation to lower or slam the body was snuffed - there is room above the motor to lower the body - but that would just not look right. This model in its current configuration utilizes an 18k Ninco large can motor for competition in the SP+ class. The added RPM (and torque) offset its overall weight (115g) to make this model perform and handle exceptionally well. "Look Ma - No Screws!" The body is attached to the chassis using one of my favourite methods - hinged side pods glued to balsa wood (epoxy) - using piano wire sleeved with brass tube inside brass tube on either side... The beauty is that all you need to do to remove the body is pull out the flexible wire tabs from brass tubes attached to the rear bushing uprights... no screws to fiddle with, work loose or lose on track... Just a simple wire/brass chassis with your basic .032" brass tongue front end and flat brass motor bracket to allow the motor/pinion to be swapped out. All of these parts were made using household hand tools although a trip to the garage to the drill press would have been quicker... square Parma oilite bushings were used at the rear. The angled wire braces on either side of the motor sit very tight to the motor giving the chassis added stiffness. The motor itself is angled slightly downwards towards the front of the chassis, both to lower the COG and to ensure the pinion is properly lined up with the crown gear. Round oilite bushings holding the front axle are reinforced with a 'chuck' bar soldered to each bushing and to the brass plate. The guide is a clone of the Ninco classic guide made by DArt. Crown gear is slot.it 28t, axles are professor motor, a DuBro #2 washer is soldered to the end of the front axle for independents, all four wheels are modified BWA, inserts and urethane tires are DArt - the tires are the club series tamper proof marked DArt CT0101 tire using a 1/8" white dot through the meat... which were leftovers from a past MiniGrid order. ...gearing and motor can yet be changed to increase performance - this chassis should be able to comfortably handle any motor up to 25k... and one day it might... :good:
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Figures132 I took the liberty to combine these previously posted pics for Figures132 on behalf of Michael Dark. You may have taken the time to notice a few photographers around the Ring courtesy Bob... Should you be interested in any of these please contact Michael directly. I'll leave it to him to reply with his preferred link should he wish to fulfill any orders... in the past he has provided both unpainted and painted versions... not cheap but well worth every cent!
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Draft Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v4.0 – May, 2018 Gentlemen, I've prepared and attached an update in draft format of the current Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines (v3.0) that addresses the following: Eliminates the confusing reference to 15" wheels and sets all of the basic wheel sizes in metric (millimeters); Offers a basis from which to calculate wheel diameter and width to avoid confusion and make compliance intuitive; These updates to wheel dimensions are not substantive - they do not change anything - but clarify the rules as they were; In hot rods wheel size is no longer restricted to 14mm wheels - hot rod wheels may be smaller in diameter since this does not offer any performance advantage; In hot rods the previously mandatory SC0120 DArt tire is now no longer mandatory but still highly recommended; In sportscars since we have the relatively new SP+ subclass the 'target' motor reference allowing any motor to be used especially for heavier models is no longer necessary and so the SP class is once again restricted to only 'Slow' motors listed in G7. All models using any other motor will be classed as SP+; The draft version reflects all of these changes. For convenience I've marked all of the changes as follows: deletions are crossed out; and additions are in red. Please feel free to print/review your own copy (attached below) and comment by replying to this thread or in person at our next scratch32 event. You must be logged in to review the attached draft and comment below.
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Chassis acceptability Art, quick question. To finish my 356 I used a Strombecker brass chassis with some modification. So is a custom body mated to a Strombecker brass chassis eligible for scratch 32? I am thinking not but wanted to check as I thought that was dealt with on the Forum but couldn't locate it. Thanks
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 5 years ago
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Wheels: Hot Rod, 1950's Grand Prix, 1960's Grand Prix (Group 1) Those of us who no longer have the BW15-200-093-450 (skinny) wheels can get a similarly sized copy from RS Slots in the U.K. These wheels PART NUMBER: RSW001 are suitable for our: Hot Rod (use the SC0120 tire - either blackwall or whitewall (special order)) 1950's Grand Prix (use the SC0120 tire) 1960's Grand Prix (Group 1 - use the SC0118 tire) and (very nice front wheels for early Group 2) Sportscars (for early era cars - use the D7 tire measuring 7mm in width at the sidewall) Fill in his online form, he'll request payment via paypal and throw your order in a bubble pack. You should get your wheels in 10 days or so - shipping and customs are VERY reasonable. - Art
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- 5 years ago
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Value Village – limited supply of 1/32 and 1/25 kits My local Value Village has a supply of kits. Most are 1/25 for less than $10 - Revell, AMT, Linburgh. If I was into that scale I would have bought them. What I did pick up were 3 1/32 scale Testors "Turn of the Century Automobiles", A 1930 Packard, 1934 Duesenburg and a 1935 Duesenburg SSJ. $3.99 each. The bodies are die cast metal. I had thoughts of converting to a slot car but they are heavy (close to 150 grams) so I am not sure how practical that is. Anybody have any experience in doing that sort of conversion. But the parts are worth the purchase - plastic wheels, bumpers, engines, mirrors etc. Probably build them as static model for the layout. Here are a few pics of the 1930 and 1935 models. Folks might want to swing by their local VV to see what they have as the part might be useful for your pre war builds. :yes: ?
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in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff
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- 5 years ago
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Your Guide and Tongue – Limiting Over-Rotation Fabricating the tongue that will hold your guide of choice should follow several basic principles, one of which is that travel or rotation should be limited either by the just the shape of the leading edges of your tongue or by adding stops. If you allow excessive rotation then you risk allowing your model to rotate well beyond the useful range of performance and either wedging it at a 90 degree angle which becomes a hazard to others or worse yet allowing it to travel in the reverse direction. Be sure to limit the rotation of your guide to just 45 degrees each way by shaping your tongue into a triangle or soldering stops in place depending on the style of guide. If your car is sliding more than 25 degrees from the direction of travel then it is already out of control and if it rotates well beyond that then a properly set up guide stop will at least force the guide (and your model) out of the slot, removing power and allowing it to slide to the gutter and usually out of harms way. In a recent race one car which allowed the guide to over rotate by at least 180 degrees repeatedly wedged itself sideways, blocking the track and creating a hazard for others at numerous locations around the track. Limiting the rotation of your guide will not only increase the life of your model but also the lives of the models of those who race with you.
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- 5 years ago
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Country Colour Reference Chart A quick and useful guide (attached below in .pdf format) for those of you who are considering applying colours - especially if your only resources are black and white photographs without written detail. If you discover that anything in this chart is incorrect please let us know by replying within this thread/topic. ;-)
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- 5 years ago
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Essential Tire Adhesive This new Gorilla Clear adhesive is what we've been waiting for to glue our urethane tires! With no expansion, no mess, and no tan ooze this is the perfect tire adhesive. Reasonably priced and available at most big box retailers this should be an easy addition/replacement to everyone's toolbox. Please note that the manufacturer suggests you keep this product IN LIGHT to prevent yellowing over time. If you use it as much as I plan to do then it won't have time to yellow but nevertheless that is the manufacturer's suggestion. I've used Gorilla Clear on many sets of tires and find that it is much easier to use than the original formula but it does need longer to cure - I would wait at least overnight (or in a perfect world) 24 hours. As they would tell Mikey - 'try it - you'll like it'.
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- 5 years ago
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Shadowfax Slot Cars – The Dawn of Grand Prix Racing through to the Golden Era For those of you who are interested in pre-war models Shadowfax in France provides a number of high quality bodies/chassis/parts at a reasonable cost. Currently there are a few models from the 1930's that are being offered... Visit them at:
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- 6 years ago
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Event Galleries Load Faster Now Some background reconfiguration now means that all Scratch32 'Event Galleries' [on the Galleries/Event Galleries page (via the pull down tab on the main menu bar)] now load much faster.
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- 6 years ago
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1957 Porsche 356 1600 At a car show in Jacksonville, I spied this little beauty. The pictures speak for themselves especially the one of the interior. The wife looks like she wants to take it home.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking. Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E Thanks to Art for his great photos!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 6 years ago
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Building in Upper and lower A arms and rear and front springs etc I jave been loo,ing at some scratch build cars in F1 classes ans see the detail in rhe front and rear suspension systems. A Arms, springs or shocks, and the rear rods.or arms. I think,they reallly five a foos looking dinosh to,tje cqrs amd was wondering if there aere any turoeials qroumd on how to do these things . All in the name of scale accuracy and good lookimg detail. Bob :wacko:
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R32 VII – Spa Lyons – April 4, 2018 The following gentlemen registered for R32 VII @ Spa Lyons: Porsche911; Art; Jimbo; MiA; FoX;
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 550 Coupe Porsche 550 Coupe - 1956 Porsche at 1956 24h Le Mans. #25 RS 550 A/4 (#550A-0104) 1498 cm (Trips / Frankenberg). Engine 1.5cc. Working on a chassis. Need to add interior as well.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 6 years ago
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SlotTrak 13.03 – Free As many of you know, slottrak became freeware last fall. For those of you with a purchased version updated to 12.50 there is no substantive change apart from the software now being free. For that reason I don't see any need to update your track software to this newest version unless you are having hardware compatibility issues.
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- 6 years ago
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Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v3.0 – December 2017 Make sure to review the latest version of the Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines updated for 2018. In a nutshell the update includes: a restriction to FF050 'slow' (or low power) motors in the 1.5L class; and the creation of an SP+ class under sportscars which allows any motor - vintage/new, custom/stock, unaltered/altered. The SP and SP+ classes will both race in future International Meisterschaft events but will be scored separately as either SP or SP+. The restriction to FF050 'slow' motors is logical to maintain the status quo in our 1.5L class. The addition of the SP+ sportscar class was motivated in part: due to some clearly wanting to stretch the boundaries of the 'target' 'slow' (or low power) motor in SP; to accommodate vintage motors of varying capability; and to encourage innovation in chassis construction. The SP+ and SP classes will race together and because we limit racers to 6 and give pilots an opportunity to race two entries it is hoped that those building SP+ models will race models in both classes. Those with only SP models (or those not interested in racing SP+ models) continue to be encouraged to race multiple SP models... :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Model Building Software & Electronics For creating model buildings out of paper - yes - their software can size anything you create using their templates and textures in 1:32 - there is a cost but it could be well worth it since so little is available in our scale. They also sell an affordable LED lighting system for just about everything on your layout, including buildings, signals, campfires, welding, etc. and also with optional sound for police cars, fire-engines, first responders, etc. Postage is reasonable or free for orders over $55.00(U.S.)... https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 356 SL It is a resin body and not a very good one (you get what you pay for). Spend almost a year trying to fix it up and still it is marginal. Decided to paint it up and decal anyway. It looks big but is under scale on length and height. Width is about 9-10 mm over scale. Porsche 356 SL – 1953 – 1488cc. 1953 Carrera PanAmericana S1.6 class. Car #199. Did not finish, over time limit. Driver - Joaquin Castillo de la Fuente. #356__2-054 Still working on the picture :wacko:
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 6 years ago
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A VERY cool Pioneer video https://youtu.be/QWAidDUDff4 Enjoy!
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in: Slot Related Curiosities, Oddities & One of a Kind
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- 6 years ago
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Tamiya Modeling Wax I've just started using this product from Tamiya and it really does bring out the lustre of your paint. It comes with its own 'cloth' applicator and is very easy to apply. No white haze after applying but make sure to remove any excess and simply buff to a brilliant shine with a tiny piece of cotton T-shirt scrap - just remember to be careful picking up your model since it will be slick - and no finger prints either! I haven't used this yet over unprotected decals so I'm not sure if it will attack them - best to do a test piece first. Retailing for around $12-$15 per bottle/kit at almost any hobby shop (that carries Tamiya products) a tiny drop goes a long way so price shouldn't really be a worry.
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- 6 years ago
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Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Chaparral 2A Not really scratch built but I will ask for forgiveness later :unsure: The Strombecker body I have had for years and always meant to paint plus I had a spare strombecker brass chassis. I opted to use a 1/32 set up which has worked out well. Motor is a Plafit Fox 11 (25k). Gears are slot-it. Wheels and inserts are BWA - though they are not quite right but they were in my spare box. Tires are DArts. Windscreen is cracked but a Future treatment has improved it while I look for another one (I know, good luck). Anyway, thought I would share.
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in: Modified Slot Car Models
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- 6 years ago
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Austin Healey 100S This is a surviving version of one of these models. For the brief Silodrome article click here or check the attachment below... [foogallery id="5819"]
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- 6 years ago
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Perfect Paint by Alex Kustov Here is a great article by Alex Kustov entitled 'Perfect Paint'
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- 6 years ago
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Ferrari 612 CANAM Ferrari 612 CANAM A few shots of the first completed DArt Ferrari 612 CANAM model. This model uses only the stock parts included with the DArt body kit - mirror, rollbar, driver's head and inkjet decals. Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer was used over Tamiya Fine Primer. The paint was polished but there is no clear coat on this one. Wax was the preferred final finish. The shell is mounted to the chassis using two centrally located posts, one immediately behind the front axle, the other infront of the motor. DArt urethane washers placed between the posts and the chassis dampen movement of the shell. The chassis was one of my first scratch built sidewinder configurations. This is a simple chassis - nothing fancy - but it is perfectly balanced. As you can see it is not polished or clear coated and so shows its age (although well I think). The centre brass section was added when the chassis was tuned for racing. If memory serves well the motor is a Fox 10 soldered directly to the chassis with 11 x 36T Slot.It pinion and spur gear. Aftermarket hard drill blank axles through brass tube at the front and oilite bushings at the rear attach BWA 15" .380 sized alloy wheels with DArt small inserts (included with the kit) and DArt urethane tires (SI0201) front and back. A vintage nylon guide was chosen for this project. This chassis/shell combination proves that you need not do anything fancy to make a rocket. The front wheels could yet be converted to independent spinners to further enhance cornering speeds - but why bother when it is at the sharp end already? Setting sail to another country hopefully this model will offer as much enjoyment for its new host/collector as it did for me. :cry:
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- 6 years ago
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The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!
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- 6 years ago
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'55 Daihatsu This was my door prize at the December IROC meet. Decided to put it together over the holidays. I added Slotter wheels on the rear, gearing and a motor with the intention of having it run. But alas was stumped by the guide flag issue. So having it as a static model for the time being. Added a wood bed using popsicle sticks and a couple of coats of Citadel ‘Nuln Oil’ Shade.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 6 years ago
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Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...
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- 6 years ago
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Another Policar GP – 1970 March 701 Porsche911 brought another wonderful Policar March 701 for some tires - out of the box it runs very well. We mounted DArt FL0203 on the plastic rear wheels... Not R32 class eligible out of the box but performance is comparable.
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- 6 years ago
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Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width. The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred. Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height. As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year. :yahoo: Dave
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Filler – Caution Using Plastic Cement & Styrene Mixture… Hi Art: I just want to give you a cautionary note related to the Plastic cement & Styrene mixture for use as a filler... I had been told that the expert modellers use it as a filler in place of putty. I had collected rotary cutter shavings from the last time I was cutting a curve in a thick sheet of polystyrene. I left them to dissolve in a well capped Tamiya paint bottle, half-filled with Testors plastic cement, and added small cut-off pieces from time to time. The mixture eventually became well dissolved into a consistent paste. This is the first chance I have had to make use of the mix, to fill in the mounting-pin holes at the side of the Tamtech body. They are countersunk funnel shaped holes of 4 mm surface diameter and extending beyond the body inside surface. So they took a larger volume of the mix. I left the body overnight and found that only the surface of the fill was cured. I could press into it and make indentations. It became a bit harder after a couple more days. When I finally sanded it down, the centers of the fill was still pliable. The final stages of working it showed that the putty had in fact, not bonded to the plastic surface of the body and I was able to pop it out of the hole. I now realize that I should have tried an application of the straight liquid cement over the surface before applying the filler mix. Also, if you are making use of this type of mixture, it may be best to apply it in thinner layers. Alternatively, you may want to test some additives. The formulation of the plastic cement is thrown out of balance with the addition of the styrene, so adding a bit of curing agent may help. However, we wouldn't want a mix that is too thin to shape. Adding a bit of Acetone may be worth testing. Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide is the hardener/curing component for most epoxies and is also involved in the plastic cement, as acetates of that compound, so it may be worth trying. So I think the technique needs a bit more testing. I've tried a few tests myself, but I don't have enough volume of the mix to test different additives. I've been preparing the body for painting and for cutting out the light lenses. It has a great number of mould seam lines, so a lot of sanding. That exposed more of the small imperfections in the surfaces. I thought I had caught everything then I found a seam across the whole width, under the front edge of the rear wing; it became very visible under oblique lighting. It was tricky smoothing it out under the wing, especially with the intake screen right at the edge. I have the body all sanded now, so I can try re-filling those mounting holes, then cut out the seven lens sections. Sorry if this is more detail than you need Art! I didn't want to leave you without complete info, and thought you may need the background if you try out the technique some time. Thanks Art; good luck with the work. Hope to see you soon. Austin.
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- 6 years ago
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Sebring 1957 Just to see how this works, so we may as well have the Wayback go way back. These images are from my dad's collection taken almost 60 years ago, so please keep them within the group. Due to the 100k suggested limit the images have become a bit grainy. Should anyone be interested contact me for larger file sizes. As time goes by I'll try to figure how to add a little info to each image.
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in: Historical 1:1
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Just for fun So, just for fun, what is this type of construction called? Who developed it? Who used it? Bonus marks for major benefits and major drawbacks. More bonus marks for how some of these drawbacks were mitigated to some extent. And a guess at which car is in the photo above.
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in: Historical 1:1
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1962 BRM P578 'Stackpipe' A wonderful article on the 1962 BRM P578 Stackpipe (attached below). "The best compromise seemed to match the pipe lengths, which meant pointing them skywards, and adding megaphone ends to assist extraction. Thus the slinky 578 gained its famous stackpipes: its most famous feature is a drag-making lash-up."
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- 6 years ago
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The Second Lost Generation from Italy – Baghetti, Bandini, Scarfiotti, Giunti A tremendous overview on these Italian Ferrari Drivers covering the 1960's through early 1970's - with pictures.
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- 6 years ago
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Restoring Wood Finishes – Circa 1850 Lemon Oil Furniture Treatment Regularly restore the natural oils on your custom made pit boxes with this easy to use furniture treatment. Easy to apply and with minimal odour. Can be found at most local Canadian retailers or order online from the manufacturer (from their Canadian web store).
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- 6 years ago
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Mosport 1960 video https://www.onf.ca/film/homme_vite/embed/player/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 356 Super – 1952 La Carrera Panamericana #10 1952 Carrera Panamericana - ‘S’ class - #10 Porsche 356 Super (von Berckheim/Linge/von Hohenlohe) – DNF accident 3rd leg I forgot about this Carrera Panamericana project which I started last spring. I’ll list the parts and products used which together with a few pictures should at the least supplement my own memory down the road if anything worked particularly well (or not). In each project I try to incorporate lessons learned from my prior mistakes and from the tips of others – but old habits are hard to break. Nevertheless here is what I used and how it went together for better or worse. It was important to me to that this model had an appropriate stance and was not ‘slammed’. As always I sorted my wheels and tires before starting the chassis. Once I knew the overall diameter of the front and back wheels/tires I set up my jig to shoot for a chassis clearance of approximately 3mm which in most cases will allow for a slightly higher body position and therefore in my opinion a more suitable stance and overall look. The body was a Ninco classic Porsche 356 with the plate light, tail pipe openings, tear drop tail lamps as well as front turn signal provisions filled in using Tamiya white putty. Everything was primed and painted with Tamiya rattlers – white primer and two coats of Racing White. It isn’t clear to me from the black and white photos what the exact colour was so I did not sweat it and chose one which looked nice. The decals were all created using whatever images I could find and modify from the internet using Microsoft Photodraw and Word then custom printed using my inkjet printer and given two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (Gloss) to seal them. No clear coat was applied to this body since the paint itself already had a nice gloss finish. On closer inspection some of the areas that I filled with Tamiya putty are still distinguishable but I decided not to spend any more time on the body. The chromed pieces (ie. mirror, wipers, handles, headlamp bezels, etc.) were all stripped and repainted using Krylon Chrome then dipped in Pledge acrylic floor polish (with a drop of windex added) to seal each piece. Although sealing the chrome dulled it somewhat I opted to seal it for better protection from handling, especially the door handles and rocker trim. The headlamps were dipped in Pledge acrylic before mounting and front and rear signal/tail lights together with reflectors were positioned and fixed in place using Gorilla Glue clear epoxy – as were all of the accent pieces. The interior was the very slightly modified Ninco classic Porsche 356 interior but I used a different pilot and upgraded the steering wheel. The interior was painted but remained black with red accents/stripes on the seats and together with the single piece glass secured in place using Gorilla clear epoxy. The completed body and interior weighs in at 24.7 grams which includes a pair of brass body post inserts for 440 screws. I kept things simple and just sleeved the existing body posts using #227 Evergreen styrene tubing although I did add some bracing to the front post. For the chassis I pulled four BW15-200 series wheels which were painted at the same time as the body and mounted DArt SC0118 tires front and back (I used the slightly smaller SC0118F on the front). I opted for a sidewinder setup and decided to go old school and just use brass tubing to hold the front and rear axles. To keep things even simpler I made the Ninco NC1 motor can a part of the chassis and soldered both the front half of the chassis and the rear axle tubing directly to the can. For those concerned about the effect of heat on the motor magnets and plastic endbell it would be possible given how this chassis was constructed to remove the endbell along with the motor guts and solder only the can in place then reinsert everything but since the target motor for this class is a ‘slow’ motor which is not to be opened I left it as is. A plastic repop of the classic Ninco guide was secured using 4mm brass tube soldered to a custom made brass front plate. At the back an additional ‘U’ shaped piece of piano wire would hold both the sliding (front to back) rear body post plate which I made plus the aluminium exhaust pipes. Since this model will need some added weight in the front I fashioned three brass plates plus a couple of .032 wires and soldered them all together to create a rattle pan which can be easily installed (or removed and further tweaked for tuning) to the chassis and which is secured in place by the front body post/screw. After carefully scrubbing the steel wire and the motor with a water and Ajax mix and then sanding/polishing everything I applied/rubbed a little Brasso metal polish to everything. For improved cornering a Dubro #2 steel washer was soldered to the solid front axle thereby allowing one wheel to spin free. As for gearing a test fitting would prove that a Slot.It 6.5mm pinion would mesh adequately with an 18mm Slot.It spur gear. Although the range for this gear set yields potential ratios that are much lower than optimal that is still fine with me. Given the construction of this chassis I can use my pinion puller and press to replace the pinion without unsoldering anything. After some initial track break-in and testing I opted to drill out approximately 2g of material from the rattle pan. Overall weight of this model is now 81.3 grams. I also changed the pinion to a 13 tooth. After placing the rattle pan into the chassis I mounted the body. Before securing the body to the chassis with a pair of 440 brass screws I added a little white glue to the insert threads to help prevent the screws from backing out during a race. I also used DArt number 2 urethane washers to space the body from the chassis. Gluing them in place will save some time down the road too. [If you have sufficient clearance you can also add a urethane spacer under each screw head which will also prevent the screws from backing out.] If your body rolls too much you might need to either remove one or both of the urethane spacers or insert a stop bar. In this case there was no issue with excessive roll. Now this model is ready! :good:
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- 6 years ago
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Porsche 356 Super – #10 – 1952 Carrera Panamericana Decals for the #10 Porsche 356 Super which competed in the 1952 Carrera Panamericana (below) are attached.
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- 6 years ago
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SlotTrak 12.50 12.50 is now the current version and has several bug fixes... a good idea to update your version. http://www.slottrak.com/downloads.html
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- 6 years ago
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Mclaren F1 build on FB This guy started with a wood block. Amazing work! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10213897476021571&set=oa.1457739204247841&type=3&theater&ifg=1
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