Ken

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    • Larry's Opel GT Hello fellow racers. Larry has been having some ipad troubles posting pics to start his Opel GT build thread. I offered to get the ball rolling for his first build. He built it for, and raced it at the last Targa Florio. The following are quotes from Larry. So to start I researched as many angles of the car as I could. I sanded down the fender well lip so the fender was flatter so my flare would sit flatter at the back to the body when glued. I stuck painters tape to the fenders and traced where the door jam was, where the front bumper came around the side and the outline of the fender itself. Next I glued three pieces of styrene together for each fender. Stuck the tape to the blank and cut it out. Didn’t cut out the wheel opening yet to keep it stable. Sanding and body putty, lastly I cut out the wheel opening to fit the wheels. And then this happened! Way to go Larry! (Those were Ken's words) Please direct your questions and positive comments to Larry for his fine build. :good: Thank you.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • D'Art Ferrari 312P The first time I laid eyes on Art's Ferrari 312P my brain said "I want that!". Based on using 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I started to rough out a chassis for bearings. Wasn't sure how to attach the body.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      KenKen

    • SCC Canada Decals #$@!ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Hello lads, had to re-number a car for pending event, had purchased SCC 'White' numerals, first time using the product, OMFG, I'm sure some within the GTA heard some unsavory language last evening... Took 14 of them to successfully transfer 3!!! They kept disintegrating, separating, no matter duration of time in water nor temperature. Curious as to whether anyone else has used (tried to)? If so, any success, what's your secret? :negative: :negative:

      Started by: Porsche911Porsche911 in: Decals

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    • 4 years ago

      AvatarJimbo

    • Motor Testing Many of you have already seen this I'm sure, but for those who haven't and are interested, and as it came up in conversation recently, a link to Bob Livingston's excellent article on motor testing. Scroll down through it and you get a good explanation of setup and how he tested RPM and Torque, and how torque was tested at lower voltages and then given an appropriate multiplying factor. This seemed to be an acceptable practice. If not entirely accurate, results with the same equipment and methodology should at least be relatively accurate. Setup's are relatively easy to duplicate should you be interested in doing it yourself. http://slotcarnews.blogspot.com/2007/02/slot-car-news-motor-list.html If anyone is further interested I could see if I could find the manufacturers graphs showing the same thing wrt torque.

      Started by: MiAMiA in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarPeter Langlois

    • Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red  and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Interesting finds at the Slot Car show yesterday I'm looking at car kits in a different way now that I'm considering converting these into slot-cars. I will try and avoid the really narrow or heavy ones from now on. Not sure wich one of these will eventually make the grade and move up to the build table. You can't make everything. Can you? :wacko: 1965 Barracuda - lightweight resin body = 14g. Track width: Rear = 52mm. Front = 50mm. 1968 GTO - body weight 21g. Track width: R = 56mm. F = 55mm 1961 E-type Jaguar - body weight = 9g. Track width: R = 46mm. F = 47mm 1963 Studebaker Avanti - body weight = 12g. Track width: R = 49mm. F = 48mm.

      Started by: KenKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up This low cost ARII Owner's Club model kit found its way to my hobby bench and was adapted/upgraded into a 'low power' track utility vehicle for The Ring. Background on the box reads: Honda was established in 1948, and since then, it kept introducing a lot of famous motor bikes. The model "Honda T360" was the first car that Honda produced. It was called "Sport Truck" rather than "Light Truck". It was mounted with a 354 cc, 4-carb HOHC engine, and could make the maximum 30 hp. Two months later, "Honda Sport 500" was marketed. It is tiny (but tall): body measures approx. 92mm x 40mm; front and rear track of 39mm; wheelbase of approx. 63mm with guide post set approx. 66mm from rear axle; and weighs approx. 61.2mm (complete). I kept it cheap by using a DArt guide, BWMS050 motor, 8T BWA pinion, scavenged Scalextric 28T crown gear, piano wire for axles and 1/8" brass tubing in place of bushings. In its finished form it is smooth and quiet but for my taste would still benefit with a 10T pinion - which it may get yet - time will tell... Since pictures are 'worth a 1000 words' here are some pictures of this build. You will note I first planned to use styrene clamps to fix the rear of the body to the rear axle sleeves but bailed on that plan for a more reliable method. A rear frame made from piano wire covered by tissue paper soaked in a solution of H2O and white glue (as suggested by f1nutz) plus DArt fog lamps were later added to this model. Several parts were extensively modified as the pictures indicate. I used navy blue tent repair tape to cover the sides of exposed motor and some scrap patio umbrella fabric (painted with a dark wash) courtesy of Porsche911 as mud flaps to cover the crown gear. [foogallery id="10642"] It is fun building something that isn't meant to race... Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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      f1nutzf1nutz

    • 1969 CANAM Piper Ferrari 612 (No. 43) This period fantasy livery uses a DArt body kit and will have a scratch built chassis underneath mounted using one screw/body post behind the front axle and two clips for wire uprights just behind the molded tailpipe shell detail. Who better a pilot to place in this unreliable rocket than the other Polish Prince (not Marek) - Tony Adamowicz! After applying a dark green base coat and fixing the mounting post/clips we were ready for the next step - decals. 29 of the 34 decals used were printed using my standard inkjet printer and coated with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (as I do with all of the decals I make). Regarding the five store bought decals used – three were rectangular Monogram white blank number plates with a black pinstripe border and two were Pattos Ferrari badge decals – in hindsight I was disappointed with both the opacity and misaligned pin stripe on the white blank Monogram number plates (but it gives the model character) and should have just printed my own along with the Pattos Ferrari badges since I am really not a fan of their low resolution. Nevertheless the project turned out just fine. The decals will be left to dry for a few days and after some cleaning up the body will be ready for two clear coats (yet to be determined), then some detail painting and a dark wash. I haven’t decided if I want to paint or decal the spoiler orange yet… no rush… ...stay tuned!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Group-25 Model Car Builders meeting invitation Group-25 has extented an invitation to the S32/R32 slot car club to join them for an afternoon of model and slot car building show & tell. We can share our skills with each other about building, painting, detailing, etc... These are the guys hosting the Slot Car and Model show in March. Please bring some of your cool stuff to show. There will be a track or two set up for some beater cars that can afford to break. Don't expect to run your nice cars there. The track is merely for newbie entertainment and to get people interested in slot cars. That's our goal too. Just as an example. DB can show off his green Ford Tudor he just brought to the Carrera Panamericana. The wiper blade marks on the windshield and general weathering are cool and inspirational. We can learn from these guys too. Some of the Group-25 members are master-builders. Check out some of the pics on their site from previous meetings. https://www.group25.org/meetings.htm The date - Feb 9th.  The time - 3pm until 7pm.  Location - Armour Heights Community Center on the southwest corner of Avenue road and Wilson avenue. Take Avenue Road exit and head south of the 401 to the first light. Here is a photo of the cool stuff various members gave to me for free to make into slot cars. Nice bunch of people. The file and brush are Christmas gifts from Cindy and Marty at Toys4Everyone. Everyone in the club got them. I hope a few can join us for a day of fun. Thank you. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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      KenKen

    • Lotus 30 – Why It Failed – Article "Sometimes there are good grounds for saying "it'll never work". To paraphrase the famous Richie Ginther quip, the Lotus 30 was a 40 with 10 fewer mistakes. But still too many to make it anything better than occasionally successful, even in the hands of Jim Clark.  Ever the loyal Lotus professional, Clark did what he could with the car but, like everyone else who drove the 30, he disliked it, and it sometimes got away even from him. Designed to compete in 'big-banger' racing against Lola and McLaren, the 30 sold quite well in 1964 — 21 were built — but quickly earned a reputation for evil handling. An improved Series 2 version was prepared for 1965, but only 12 of them were made. Although the 30's modified 4.7-litre 350bhp Ford Fairlane V8 was inferior to the Chevy opposition, that was the least of its problems. One person who foresaw the car's failure was Lotus's own Len Terry, but his concerns were largely ignored. "Colin Chapman gave me the scheme and asked for my comments," recalls Terry. "I studied it for two days and by the end I'd produced a critique covering two foolscap pages. Of all that I considered wrong with the car, the only thing he agreed to change was boxing in the rear chassis members. That was it. He was not prepared to change anything else. That's when I told him somebody else would have to draw the car because I didn't want my name attached to it." To read the article view the attached .pdf which can be found below these images.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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      KenKen

    • Super Macro as a building tool I remember finishing my first car and being all proud of it. Then I took a bunch of pictures. After examining the photos I thought  "Is this the car I just built? Look at all the flaws!!! The build threads I posted have all been an eye opener from what the naked eye can see, and what the camera can see. I make it a habit now to take many more pictures of my builds than I post. I do it now just to catch details my eye did not detect. It helps keep my building standards a bit higher. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • 1/35 pedestrian bridge I saw this at Hornet Hobbies. It's only good for someone that has a track. It's listed at $75.00, but everything has to go by this Sunday. I have a feeling that a cash offer may lower the price dramatically on Sunday. Footprint is listed on the box. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Scenerize It

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      KenKen

    • Airfix MGB Sports model I bought this kit at the Torcan model show. The kit dates back to 1967. Nice to find an old gem like this. Worth doing the build. I hope to have it finished by the weekend and race it at the Dale in just under 2-weeks. SP-slow class. Ken  

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      KenKen

    • Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead.  :good: The assembly begins... Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      KenKen

    • Bandsaw blades I recently had a bandsaw blade explode and got lucky it didn't catch my hand in the process. I went to the usual industrial suppliers for a 93.5" inch by 1/8th scrolling bandsaw blade and found nothing in stock anywhere (Usually $16.00). I stumbled across a guy that makes blades to suit for $29.00 = Barry at M&L Sharpening Ltd 1550 Bayly Street, Unit 22, in Pickering. When Barry told me that he uses Starret blade stock, I actually got excited. It took Barry 10-minutes to make two blades while I waited. I now have a blade that cuts through thick aluminum as if it wasn't there. The weld is so straight, you can't see it pass when the power is on. I won't buy cheap blades anymore. I like my hands too much. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 5 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      KenKen

    • Vanski – Death Row – May, 2019 Execution – Sportscars Only Gents, As a heads up and given that the Vanski motor has been unavailable for many, many years now - we will be the first group in Southern Ontario to eliminate these motors from our Scratch32 and R32 1950's & 1.5L Grand Prix classes. This will have no effect on sportscars where they will continue to be permissible. We'll focus on the definition of 'low power motors' to effect this change... Over the winter you might want to consider moving some of your inventory to other groups - where they will be sought after... Cheers!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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      AvatarArthur

    • Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Controller brake pots I just shorted out my controller recently and created a dead spot on the brake pot. After doing some research, this is what I found out. The following is pasted from Andrew Smith, CEO at Professor Motor. One important tech tip to help the brake pot – when finished racing turn the pot always to the “full brake” position so that IF the controller is hooked up incorrectly then the circuit breaker that is on the circuit board will protect the pot – if the brake is not at “full” when a controller is misconnected the short circuit that the pot sees will likely cause damage. No need to add a fuse .. there is already a self resetting electronic circuit breaker that we designed in on the circuit board .. that circuit breaker replaced the fuse that we used to use years ago … but any fuse or breaker is not effective if the pot is partially on (unfortunately) Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 5 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings The key to keeping axles true to each other is in the set up. I measure and scribe everything before I start drilling. I always start with a pilot drill. It can be used to lightly poke an accurate spot indicating if you're on target. Drills are too long and flexible to check for accuracy that way. I don't need a digital readout this way and use an inexpensive $75 drill press. 

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Build It

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      KenKen

    • Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.

      Started by: KenKen in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 5 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Ferrari 750 Monza Scaglietti Here is an extensively modified Ferrari 290MM body kit which was turned into a 750 Monza as raced by Fon Portago in the final edition of La Carrera Panamericana. A single plastic exhaust (with exposed muffler) is used on the left hand side - and the exposed tail pipe is aluminium tube attached to the chassis. And in an effort to keep the look of this model period any temptation to lower or slam the body was snuffed - there is room above the motor to lower the body - but that would just not look right. This model in its current configuration utilizes an 18k Ninco large can motor for competition in the SP+ class. The added RPM (and torque) offset its overall weight (115g) to make this model perform and handle exceptionally well.  "Look Ma - No Screws!" The body is attached to the chassis using one of my favourite methods - hinged side pods glued to balsa wood (epoxy) - using piano wire sleeved with brass tube inside brass tube on either side... The beauty is that all you need to do to remove the body is pull out the flexible wire tabs from brass tubes attached to the rear bushing uprights... no screws to fiddle with, work loose or lose on track... Just a simple wire/brass chassis with your basic .032" brass tongue front end and flat brass motor bracket to allow the motor/pinion to be swapped out. All of these parts were made using household hand tools although a trip to the garage to the drill press would have been quicker... square Parma oilite bushings were used at the rear. The angled wire braces on either side of the motor sit very tight to the motor giving the chassis added stiffness. The motor itself is angled slightly downwards towards the front of the chassis, both to lower the COG and to ensure the pinion is properly lined up with the crown gear.  Round oilite bushings holding the front axle are reinforced with a 'chuck' bar soldered to each bushing and to the brass plate. The guide is a clone of the Ninco classic guide made by DArt. Crown gear is slot.it 28t, axles are professor motor, a DuBro #2 washer is soldered to the end of the front axle for independents, all four wheels are modified BWA, inserts and urethane tires are DArt - the tires are the club series tamper proof marked DArt CT0101 tire using a 1/8" white dot through the meat... which were leftovers from a past MiniGrid order. ...gearing and motor can yet be changed to increase performance - this chassis should be able to comfortably handle any motor up to 25k... and one day it might... :good:  

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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      AvatarAnonymous

    • Wheels: Hot Rod, 1950's Grand Prix, 1960's Grand Prix (Group 1) Those of us who no longer have the BW15-200-093-450 (skinny) wheels can get a similarly sized copy from RS Slots in the U.K. These wheels PART NUMBER: RSW001 are suitable for our: Hot Rod (use the SC0120 tire - either blackwall or whitewall (special order)) 1950's Grand Prix (use the SC0120 tire) 1960's Grand Prix (Group 1 - use the SC0118 tire) and (very nice front wheels for early Group 2) Sportscars (for early era cars - use the D7 tire measuring 7mm in width at the sidewall) Fill in his online form, he'll request payment via paypal and throw your order in a bubble pack. You should get your wheels in 10 days or so - shipping and customs are VERY reasonable. - Art

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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      KenKen

    • Your Guide and Tongue – Limiting Over-Rotation Fabricating the tongue that will hold your guide of choice should follow several basic principles, one of which is that travel or rotation should be limited either by the just the shape of the leading edges of your tongue or by adding stops. If you allow excessive rotation then you risk allowing your model to rotate well beyond the useful range of performance and either wedging it at a 90 degree angle which becomes a hazard to others or worse yet allowing it to travel in the reverse direction. Be sure to limit the rotation of your guide to just 45 degrees each way by shaping your tongue into a triangle or soldering stops in place depending on the style of guide. If your car is sliding more than 25 degrees from the direction of travel then it is already out of control and if it rotates well beyond that then a properly set up guide stop will at least force the guide (and your model) out of the slot, removing power and allowing it to slide to the gutter and usually out of harms way. In a recent race one car which allowed the guide to over rotate by at least 180 degrees repeatedly wedged itself sideways, blocking the track and creating a hazard for others at numerous locations around the track. Limiting the rotation of your guide will not only increase the life of your model but also the lives of the models of those who race with you.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Build It

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      KenKen

    • Essential Tire Adhesive This new Gorilla Clear adhesive is what we've been waiting for to glue our urethane tires! With no expansion, no mess, and no tan ooze this is the perfect tire adhesive. Reasonably priced and available at most big box retailers this should be an easy addition/replacement to everyone's toolbox. Please note that the manufacturer suggests you keep this product IN LIGHT to prevent yellowing over time. If you use it as much as I plan to do then it won't have time to yellow but nevertheless that is the manufacturer's suggestion. I've used Gorilla Clear on many sets of tires and find that it is much easier to use than the original formula but it does need longer to cure - I would wait at least overnight (or in a perfect world) 24 hours. As they would tell Mikey - 'try it - you'll like it'.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Workbench Essentials

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      KenKen

    • Building in Upper and lower A arms and rear and front springs etc I jave been loo,ing at some scratch build cars in F1 classes ans see the detail  in rhe front and rear suspension systems. A Arms, springs or shocks, and the rear rods.or arms. I think,they reallly five a foos looking dinosh to,tje cqrs amd was wondering if there aere any turoeials qroumd on how to do these things . All in the name of scale accuracy and good lookimg detail. Bob :wacko:

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: How To – Build It

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    • 6 years ago

      AvatarAnonymous

    • Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • Chaparral 2A Not really scratch built but I will ask for forgiveness later :unsure: The Strombecker body I have had for years and always meant to paint plus I had a spare strombecker brass chassis.  I opted to use a 1/32 set up which has worked out well.  Motor is a Plafit Fox 11 (25k). Gears are slot-it. Wheels and inserts are BWA - though they are not quite right but they were in my spare box.  Tires are DArts.  Windscreen is cracked but a Future treatment has improved it while I look for another one (I know, good luck). Anyway, thought I would share.

      Started by: DBDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

    • The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 6 years ago

      KenKen

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