Ken

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    • Auto Union Type D – Dart Kit For this build, I have used the recently released Dart kit of the Auto Union Type D.  As usual, the quality of the kit is second to none and it comes with two driver busts and seat options, large wired inserts and a long styrene tube with two brass push in threaded inserts to be installed as body posts where needed. I decided to mate the body with an aluminium chassis (KRZ Design) that I made specifically for this model.  The BWA 14k ff motor is glued onto the chassis with 5 minute epoxy.  I decided to use wired wheels that were purchased from Pendle. You will note that there is the appearance of significant tire degradation to the front wheels on this model-it wasn't due to the photo taken after a race.  I'll be replacing these rubber tires that came with the wheels with Dart urethane that will be trued to the same size. The model as shown in the photos includes the smaller half bust that came with the kit but it is evident that this option requires a thick seat cushion otherwise the driver can barely see over the hood.  I'll be replacing the half bust with a modified full body to achieve the most realistic result. The model runs very well, and is competitive, with my Auto Union Type C and Mercedes Benz W125.  Based on early test results, this type D outpaces the other two. A new entry for the next Coppa D PGP+ race with Tazio Nuvolari behind the wheel to join Bernd Rosemeyer in the type C and Rudolf Caracciola in the W125. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • 1963 Indy Roadster I found a few links that folks might find interesting when building the car. It is not a slot car build but won first place at the 2016 IPMS Nationals in SC. Parnelli Jones's 1963 Indy 500 Winning Watson Roadster - Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles - IPMS/USA Forums (ipmsusa3.org) The second link is of a Facebook page (embedded in first link), with step by step pictures with comments when you click on the picture. I guess you need to be on FB to see.  The interesting thing I liked is it helped locating where bits go plus it identified the paint colors to use for the Watson Livery. Don't know if it is helpful to anyone but I found it helped me. My model is coming along.  I am going for a Watson Livery.  Mica Blue nose and White Pearl body, a little ambitious for me but what the heck.  I ordered decals and a paint mask to help me along.  The chassis I built 18 months ago for a STP Nova body but was never happy with the body.  It fits the Watson with minimal adjustments. The chassis wheelbase is a touch long (1/4inch) as you will notice in the picture.   So far the car is primed, interior glued in and driver fitted but not glued nor detail painted.                                 

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Austin Healey Sprite I was walking along the front lot earlier looking for sections that still needed raking, when I heard the rumble of an antique motorcycle engine coming around the corner. I turned around and found that it was a tiny bright red Austin Healey Sprite. I remembered that I probably have one of those packed away somewhere in the basement, possibly even in the right scale. I eventually took a look and found a Healey 3000, as well as a 32’nd scale Sprite. It was a nice AirFix box of the 1958-1961 Sprite MkI. (1997 re-box of 1961 tooling).  However, the contents weren’t so nice and I recalled that I had set it aside deciding that it wasn’t worth spending time on it. But seeing the real thing drive by, gave me renewed motivation. Fig. 1:   You can’t judge a book by its cover – you can’t judge a kit by its box-art ! I had built many model cars when I was a kid, but never a 1/32 scale, and this one looks like the tiniest of the tiny. (I use two large magnifying glasses while doing intricate work, but here I could make use of a microscope!)   I started work on it and found that the tooling, moulding, casting were even worse than I had initially thought. The front fender pontoons were lumpy. The three sections making up the front end of the car did not fit properly. The hood seam in front of the windshield was scored different thicknesses from one segment to the next. Door seams were irregular. Rocker panel seams were different heights and shapes between left to right side. Other body features that were supposed to be the same, were different sizes and shapes from each-other, and not symmetrically positioned on the left and right sides. The headlight lenses are nice but the dome sockets they are to fit into on top of the hood are not smooth and semi-circular but are instead elongated leaving excess at the top and a gap at the bottom. There are other inconsistencies that I won’t bother listing, plus more I’m sure to discover. (Once again, it seems that I’ve stumbled into an overly difficult model to work with.)  But I decided to stick with it anyway.  One of the problems for me in this smaller scale, has been motivation, so I decided now that I have a bit, I should make use of it.   Fig. 2:   Sprite in another of the many standard colours, ‘Mint Green’.   I assembled the front end body sections, and started the prep by sanding down those seams and all the lumps on the curved surfaces. I’ve never used body putty on a motorized car, fearing that it may crack under flex during competition, but here I couldn’t avoid it and decided to take the chance. I filled in the top hood seam and the small body-fit gaps in the front, as a start. Fig. 3:   Kit contents.   There is something else about the body that doesn’t seem quite right. I almost bought a 3000 Mk III when I was a youngster, but I don’t know much about the Sprite, so I started searching the references to learn a bit about the car. If I’m going to the trouble of building it, I want to do it right. I couldn’t find matching wheels in my collection, so I tried the body onto a ‘Carrera Go’ chassis, and even at that 1/43 scale, the chassis was too large for this tiny body ( ~10.5 cm x 4 cm; ~4” x 1 ½” ) . With the kit wheels in place, the body looked very high off the tech block. I thought the problem may be that the wheels were out of scale too large. Doing a search and some arithmetic, I found that the kit tires are properly scaled and do correspond to the vintage Sprite tires, “Cross-ply 5.20-13 tyres”, which are apparently 23.1” or 587mm overall diameter (on nominal 13” rims). The kit wheels have a Rim diam = 11mm,  Tire diam = 18mm,  giving a Track clearance = 7mm with tires touching the inside of the fenders, and that already appears far too high for the tiny sportscar. Adding a 2 mm tire/fender clearance on the model, (which would be more realistic and would be needed to allow for minimum body roll), gives 9 mm track clearance, and would convert to 288mm, or 11.3” road clearance on the real car. (That 2mm tire/fender scale clearance converts to only  2 ½ ” tire/inside fender clearance available to the real car, still far too small.)   I don’t own a sports car, but the road clearance from the bottom of the rocker panel of my mini-van is only 8 ½” ; the other cars in the garage are lower.  Since the wheels are to correct scale, the only conclusion I can draw from this analysis is that the model is out of scale too shallow. As a result, they had to cut the wheel arches too close to the top of the body. The shallow body also gives very little clearance for the tires inside the fenders thus the whole body is raised far too high off the track. All of this is even apparent from photos of the real car. (Exterior photos, as well as photos under the bonnet show that there is plenty of space, and structure, between the top of the tire and top of the fender.)   Fig’s.  4 & 5:   Body proportions of the kit and the real car. It’s very obvious from comparison of these two photos, that the model body is out of scale too shallow, streamlined. (Compare the heights of the door panels, the heights of the fenders above the cut-outs, and the space from top of tire to top of fender.) Unfortunately, it’s an effect that can’t be corrected on this model without major surgery. On the other hand, using smaller wheels helps with the body height and track clearance, but makes the wheel cut-outs on the model look even larger .  (I may have to do what I see done on my Ninco XK120 and many other sportscar models - build a step drop between the body and chassis. Even on the real car, some chassis components show below the bottom edge of the body. However, such a step will limit my chassis design and it’s dynamics.)   This thing has given me so much trouble; Looks like my initial assessment was correct and I should have just left it in the box! In any case, now it’s become a challenge! So I have been searching for correctly scaled rims and tires. I have worked out four possible chassis designs to fit this tiny body, but until I have the wheels in hand I can’t finalize the adjustments on the body or the detailed dimensions of the chassis. I’m looking for rims 13” nominal which usually work out of be 13mm diameter at the centre ridge and 11.5 mm diameter at the outside edge, depending on the manufacturer. I need 5mm wide for the front pair and 7mm for the rear. Corresponding tires would be 18mm diam before truing.  It's going to be difficult to compensate for the shallow body; I may have to do other adjustments, but I want to get the best balance possible.   I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.   Vincent Van Gogh    

      Started by: FelixFelix in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      FelixFelix

    • 1/87 fun Inspired by MIA’s Aston Martin article I thought I’d post a pic of an Ho transporter and cargo I picked up on my most recent visit to Ireland. It is a postal vehicle breakdown lorry made by Oxford die cast as are its cargo.

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Nova Gasser The gasser class may open up the field to some new body styles. This just came out as a current release from Atlantis. I was a bit concerned about the stock hood for a gasser. But the problem was already solved. There was no mention of this bonus scoop anywhere on the box. Nice surprise. The examples.

      Started by: KenKen in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Liquid Chrome by Molotow Anyone who has tried to replicate a chrome finish knows that this can be a challenge. As noted elsewhere I've had good luck with Krylon's Premium Chrome rattle cans - but thanks to a tip from F1Nutz I now have another great product in my paint shop that is even easier to use - a 4mm Liquid Chrome Pump Marker by Molotow. They have a complete line which includes a refill too... Available from Amazon or at the Group 25 model car show (by Sunward Hobbies). I tested the marker on some knock offs and headers/tail pipes and wow does it leave a nice finish! Impressive! And so easy to use too! This product gets 5 out of 5 thumbs up! :good:  :good:  :good:  :good:  :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • Updates Again… Gents, This weekend several upgrades were made to many of our plug ins and our wordpress server software - now up to v5.8... Among other things you will see that most profile pictures (avatars) for our users have disappeared. If you use a Gravatar image then this does not affect you. If your image has disappeared and you don't want to use Gravatar for cross platform image display then please re-submit your image next time you log in... images which did not meet the minimum avatar criteria may not display either, but you will be reminded of this when you upload an image... Also, smilies are gone and there are no plans to replace or add them right now... My apologies for the inconvenience.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

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    • 2 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Rainer Schlegelmilch photo archive Hi guys I’ve long admired the amazing photography and coffee table books of long time Motorsports photographer Rainer Schlegelmilch. During a recent online search I found his website which contains thousands of his photos organized by year,series etc. thought you might enjoy perusing them. https://www.schlegelmilch.com/racing-years/nggallery/1960s/1962/ cheers! Bill  

      Started by: f1nutzf1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 2 years ago

      KenKen

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: R32

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    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • New classic Mustangs anyone? Need a place to spend your retirement money? This will do it in one swift shot. Make sure you grab your heart, and sit down before you check the prices. They are scary. https://revologycars.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIse3Py6yr8AIVPMP2Ah0scAQhEAEYASAAEgJj5_D_BwE

      Started by: KenKen in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • What kits are you buying, building, working on during isolation? I'm always looking for different and odd kits to build for the future. Here are some recent finds... Luis helped me pick this up from around the Hamilton area. Thank you Luis! The Triumph Herald is an odd looking duck. This Spitfire kit came from one of the members of Group-25. These just arrived from HobbyLink Japan. I finally got a Carrera Panamericana Beetle! What is everyone up to? What are you building or buying for future, possible builds? Post any build at all. Nothing is too strange. Cool scenery is interesting too. I may not build every kit. But it's fun poking through the boxes and deciding. :-)

      Started by: KenKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Simple Spray Booth It's cold outside so those of us who have cars to build need to paint indoors. Here are some pictures of a simple portable spray booth I put together that helps to keep the air fresher in my home. It was made using a clear polypropylene tote that I got on sale from Canadian Tire. This material is fairly easy to cleanup after painting and it allows in outside light for greater visibility. It uses a box in box design that allows for perfect sealing and easier portability. It uses an equipment rack fan that I bought on Amazon for just over 20 bucks. This fan runs on house voltage, is brushless and sparkproof and moves 110 cfm of air. this type of fan allows you to use any normal hobby paint including nail polish and automotive lacquers. The filter consists of lighting grid cut to fit  and fine aquarium floss built into a dollar store food saver. The fan is bolted through both boxes and the exhaust fitting making for a leakproof seal. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. The exhaust uses 4" semi flexible metal tubing attached to a woodworking exhaust fitting at one end using a 4" hose clamp and a dryer vent quick connect at the other. This is attached to the other half of the  quick connect that I have bolted  to a wooden window insert. As the main box was originally a tote the hose clamp can be loosened and the entire exhaust be put inside ready to be moved. My wife was painting a C4 corvette for Group 25 that Ken kindly gave her so we had a chance to test out the design. It worked flawlessly. It's best to start the fan before painting and to leave it on for a few minutes after you finish to make sure no solvents escape back into your home. Please remember that you should also be using appropriate safety equipment for the type of finish you're spraying. As I tend to use lacquers that means a respirator , gloves and eye protection. The whole project went together for about $75.00 worth of materials. I hope some of you find this useful. Let's get building! Cheers Steve  

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 3 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Dart Hobbies Porsche 804 Four years ago, I read Art's post on how to prepare the Dart Porsche 804 kit and I immediately  wanted one. Followed most of his advice and placed  it over a simple chassis - from a simple mind. Originally it had an AB Slot motor bracket but I was never happy with the performance.  I have since built a new chassis with a homemade motor plate allowing me to angle the motor and achieve a lower ground clearance.  Just waiting use it in a race.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • 3D Printed body’s Good morning everyone, It's been awhile since I've posted anything on the site.  I hope everyone is doing well. We can all thank JCB for this find.  Click on the link below to view a new site with 3D printed models for scratch building.  There are a few Citroen models, a Mini, a Holden, a Ford, a lotus 30, a Fiat 1600, Aston Martin DB5 and a few more... https://www.3dprintable.shop/?fbclid=IwAR27xQBEprdHvyfSQhSKX9Blg2hgX2KQ0biJseL9NFMKMYR6GPfksNH1QL0

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford Model T Hot Rod Greetings from Scarborough.  It's time to contribute to this Forum after reading it for so long.  Although I race with "the other Club", I did race a few R32 events several years ago and Hot Rods was one of the classes.   After using a borrowed car, I decided to scratch build my own.   Despite being in the Hobby since the 60's (off and on), I never a soldered a chassis together so this was going to be interesting.   I used the Lindberg 1925 Ford Model T and added a box (made from styrene) in the rear to hide the crown gear and AB Slot motor bracket. It has  RS Slot wheels with Dart inserts and Dart tires of course.   For a first attempt, I was quite pleased with it.

      Started by: AvatarGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      FelixFelix

    • Ranchero Gasser ideas I've been looking into Ranchero Gasser examples online. There are differences between them depending on budget. One thing they all have in common is the front end is quite high. But the exhaust systems and gas tanks can be all over the map. Here are some examples. Front mounted tank with budget headers, and straight open carbs. Side-dump exhausts with a very cool air-scoop over a super-charger. Exhaust out the fender wells, no hood over the chrome engine, and nice white walls on the rear wheels. Tank up front and regular headers. This is a BW pic of a slightly newer model Ranchero. The thing that I noted on this gasser is the rear tires are tucked under the wheel wells. The front end is high, the back end is low compared to the cars that have the wheel wells chopped out and totally rounded. I laid this on the table for a quick look at this project. The ruler would simulate the track height. I like the side-dump exhaust myself. Maybe a nice air-scoop on the hood, and little gas tank up front?

      Started by: KenKen in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

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    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • Rat Rod ideas There are a lot of kits out there that never entered an endurance race. The Studebaker Avanti is one of them. Strange, yet interesting car. It would probably be considered too narrow for a sports car. But it might fit the Rat Rod class in a striking ugly flat grey or flat black with 8-injector stacks and 8-exhaust pipes coming out of the hood. I'm installing headers on my next BRM and have a spare set of these exhaust pipes that would look crazy sticking out of each side of a Studebaker hood. Starting to lean towards the "Mad Max" theme.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Chassis pics A few customer's chassis pics. A few more. This strange looking chassis was made for a forum administrator on a site in the UK. It fits something called a Morris J-van. Very odd vehicle. But who am I to judge another man's passion?

      Started by: KenKen in: How To Order

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    • 3 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • New Scratch32 Classifieds Area We now have a FREE classifieds area on Scratch32! Just click on 'Classifieds' in our top menu to see what is for sale (or wanted to buy). Or select 'Add a listing' from the 'Classifieds' drop down menu to post your ad right away! Users with a Scratch32 account can now post ads containing detailed descriptions and pictures of items they wish to sell privately for FREE. These ads can be read by anyone, including those without an account. [So you can post an ad and then link it anywhere else.] It is also easy for every user to manage their ads. All ads expire in 60 days. There are just three limitations: Only model slot car related content is permitted; No junk - only items of quality that you would or have used yourself; No retail sales or ads for inventories of items. Scratch32 will reserve the right to remove any ad(s) that do not comply.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Website Information

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    • 3 years ago

      Porsche911Porsche911

    • Routed test track It's not easy to guess how a new car will handle at a race. It's hit/miss without a track. Someone posted this and it caught my attention. It can be configured to go in reverse with the flip of a switch, and has it's own power supply with a potentiometer instead of a hand controller. A bit crude, but it only measures 30" inches by 48" inches. It would not take much to improve it for our own uses. As a first upgrade to this design. You can make all three curves different radiuses. Create a drag-strip beside it if you want to test top speed or acceleration. :yahoo:

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • VW Beetle I finally broke down and bought an Arii Beetle for the Carrera Panamericana. Fun little kit. I decided to go with car number 262 in the Beetle caravan. The main difference between car 261 and 262 is the fold-up open top roof. Both cars were apparently red. The kit was molded in red. Why fight gravity? I studied the removable top in more detail. It did not look like someone stuck a matress on the roof of the car as pictured in the example of the model above. It might look more like the thickness of a sheet of paper on a 1/32 model. Like the example of the real car below.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ford Escort Mk1 with KRZ chassis Not sure what forum sub group to post in but this seemed most appropriate.  This car started out as a circa 1990s model.  A friend of mine then painted and decaled it several years ago, I fitted a PCS plastic chassis, Pendle wheels but was never happy with it until a Ken's KRZ chassis arrived. Finished (almost) car below. One the moderator approves I will show the chassis build.

      Started by: DBDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Axle spacers and crown gears This combination of spacers was recently used on the Beetle chassis. I measured the distance between the bushings. Then measured the crown thickness. I was very lucky in that the numbers were close enough without having to use too many spacers to take up the gap. The exact right number. They are sitting in order of how they sit on the axle. 2mm brass and an 0.010" inch steel spacer.    Crown gear.    1.5mm brass and 2 x 0.005" inch steel spacers. Before gluing the motor in, the 0.010" spacer was installed on the same side as the 2 x 0.005" spacers. The motor was epoxied in place holding the gears tight to each other. After the 5-minute epoxy hardened. The axle was removed, and re-installed with the 0.010" washer on the other side to create an exact gear mesh clearance. The crown has raised letters that can interfere with measuring it. So I sand it smooth with 400-grit paper on a flat surface. I make small circles so as not to sand any side down more than the other. What I found by mistake is that you can easily take a tenth of a millimeter off the width of the crown to help it fit better. Use the least amount of spacers as possible during assembly. They can have a bit of a spring-like reaction in larger numbers. Best regards, Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Chassis list 1A First and foremost, I would like to thank Art for an amazing opportunity to be able to offer aluminum chassis on the S32 site. It's been an interesting road getting here. Many of the club members watched this concept grow from nothing. Most have become good friends. Many have already purchased chassis's, and they run well. I humbly thank everyone for having faith in me. I have drawings for the following cars/chassis. 1936 Auto Union (DArts) 1936 Bugatti T50B (Penelope Pitlane) 1948 Jaguar XK120 (Lindberg) 1949 Ford Tudor (Lindberg) 1953 Porsche 550 Spyder (DArts) 1955 Chevy Nomad (Gunze) 1956 Ferrari 290mm (DArts) 1957 Maserati 250F (Scalex) 1959 Eldorado Biarritz (Gunze) 1959 Impala Sports Coupe (Gunze) 1959 Fairlane 500 Skyliner (Gunze) 1961 Porsche RS61 (DArts) 1962 BRM 578 (DArts) 1962 MGB Sports (Airfix) 1963 Thunderbird (Gunze) 1963 Cooper Ford (Professor Motor) 1963 Corvette Stingray (AMT) 1964 Porsche 904 (MRRC) 1964 Lotus 30 (DArts) 1964 Rover BRM (Aurora) 1965 AC Cobra (Ninco) 1965 Mustang 2+2 (AMT) 1965 Pontiac GTO (Monogram) 1965 Triumph TR4A (Airfix) 1965 Corvair (DArts) 1966 Chaparral 2D (Strombecker) 1966 Shelby GT350 (Monogram) 1967 Ford Fairlane (Monogram) 1968 Matra MS10 (DArts) 1969 Corvette C3 (Revell) 1969 Ferrari 312P Berlinetta (DArts) 1969 Charger 500 (Carrera) 1969 Porsche 914 (SRC) 1970 Ferrari 512S (Fly) 1973 Shadow DN1 (DArts) 1974 McLaren M20 (Carrera) I may have a few more. Please inquire about your body if it's not on the list. Anything can be measured. Drive systems and prices available at this time are: Inline chassis = $50.00 Sidewinder chassis = $50.00 (plus $20.00 for an NSR Sidewinder pod, installation, and hardware) The prices are for a base aluminum chassis that you must assemble. SW pods are pre-installed. No other parts are included. 3/16" inch bearings, or bushings can be used. Due to the fact that these fit in the chassis without solder, bushings can easily be upgraded for bearings at anytime down the road. For an extra $5. You can add 2-lengths of Evergreen body post material (#227), 2-brass inserts (4-40), 2-flat washers, and 2-countersunk body screws. The guide hole is designed to fit a SlotIt CH10 universal guide. Please state your brand of guide before ordering. This whole thing is a bit of a test. Please, kindly help me figure out the learning curve? Thanks a million in advance! Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Chassis Catalogue

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    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Body posts The 4-40 brass inserts are easy to install. Just set them on a hard surface, flat side down. Cut the Evergreen tubing a bit longer than required. Then use a small hammer to tap the plastic over the insert until the plastic bottoms out. The chassis needs to be partially assembled to the point of having the wheels spaced to fit snugly inside the body. This photo shows the body sitting on the tires without body posts. Then install the body posts directly to the chassis without washers of any sort. Test the body fit and trim the posts little by little until you like how the body sits. I often trim the posts until the body sits on the tires again. Then add the washers after for a close fit. It's the only way to slam a car. The photo below shows the body posts trimmed to size. The next step is to prepare the body for the posts. I scuff/scrape/scratch up the area where the epoxy will be applied with a knife. While the posts are still mounted to the chassis. I apply epoxy to the inside of the body, and a little to the top of the body posts and set the body on the chassis. For me, the tires resting on the body help keep the body level. You can add equal spacers under both rocker panels if you don't want to slam your car close to the track. Here are the body posts after being epoxied in place. The chassis can be completed for final assembly to the body. The steel and urethane washers have been added. The body sits very close to the tires, and we have body float. But the tires don't rub. :good: A small strip of masking tape is stuck under the chassis to prevent the body screws from backing out. Urethane washers on both sides aren't enough. They all need tape. You'll see it on all my builds. I found the best way to assemble the chassis to the body is... Screw through the chassis first, steel washer next, then urethane washer, to the body post. Lightly snug the screw until it allows the body to wobble ever so slightly. It may loosen up after the first race and require re-adjusting. It should then be good for many races. The urethane washers usually keep the screws and steel washers in place while chassis and body are disassembled for whatever reason. My first car is still on it's first set of urethane washers and going strong. Good old Fred Steinbroner in the funny blue Tudor. These urethane washers last a super looooong time. :good:

      Started by: KenKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 0
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Merry Christmas Everyone! Merry Christmas Everyone I hope that you are all doing well and that the Holidays give you some respite from this topsy-turvy-time. Many of you are ankle deep in new projects, that all look great by the way, and I hope to have some new stuff in the New Year to share with the group. May 2021 be a better, brighter year and give us all a chance to race together again. Cheers Steve

      Started by: racer68racer68 in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 3 years ago

      AvatarLuis Meza

    • Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.

      Started by: KenKen in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Getting started Everyone has different gifts and talents. No one has a monopoly on good ideas. Please feel free to send me an email with your questions, concerns, or suggestions. I will try and implement them into this forum. [email protected] Thanks a million! Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 0
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Painting a Driver’s Head Last week I had the opportunity to paint a 1:10 scale driver's head for a friend. It was for his R/C off road vehicle - but I'm not sure which manufacturer's - I suspect Tamiya but I could very well be wrong... I used Tamiya flat acrylics diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner (for airbrushing) or water (hand painting/washes). After cleaning the plastic parts with SuperClean I airbrushed the head with a stock skin tone then darkened that skin tone slightly with a tiny amount of brown for the faint shadow underneath the cheeks, chin and ears. While the airbrush was still within reach I painted the cap with another stock dark olive colour. All of the airbrushing was done using roughly a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya acrylic paint and thinner to get a milk like consistency that I find perfect for airbrushing. Three light coats gave me enough base coverage. For the hand brushing I always start with the hardest or more detailed parts first - in this case the eyes - since if I screw things up I don't lose as much time if I have to apply the base coat over again. For the eyes I washed in some off white (which I think is still too bright - next time I'll add more colour to the white) then painted the iris blue and then the pupil black. I added a little line of diluted brown both above and below the eye for his eyelashes. Then I added a few very diluted washes of red over the lips - starting with the most diluted coat first over the whole lip area followed by a touch more pigment to the centre of the lips until I was satisfied with the result. Brown hair and eyebrows were next followed by some lightened highlights. Cleanup for everything was with Dollar store nail polish remover (with acetone) and so there was never any unpleasant smell. Soaking the airbrush parts in this solution for a few minutes then scrubbing them clean took all but 15 minutes... I did not use a primer and although I cleaned the plastic the paint can be scratched off with a finger nail if one tries... fortunately this head will not be handled much (if at all) so this was not a concern - but I would use a primer next time... ...hope this helps!

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • How to keep your aluminum chassis, square I find using precision axle spacers help to build a chassis that remains square. The math keeps things accurate between all 4-corners. Many choices and brands of axle spacers are available. I tend to prefer NSR brass axles spacers for their accuracy. I try and keep several spacers in stock of almost every size ranging from 0.25mm to 4mm. I won't build a chassis without them. You often see them on my build threads. Motor installation section to follow shortly... Thank you for your patience. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 2
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Thanks a million to everyone at Scratch32! I can't thank Art enough for creating this section, as well as the opportunity to offer aluminum chassis's here on the Scratch32 site. Art has been extremely helpful along the way. Many lessons and debates on building cars have taken place that helped set this in motion. I would also like to thank Chris Walker for the build lessons and pointers that gave me more understanding about good scratch building. I would also like to thank JMSracer for being my first customer. 10 times in a row now? :good: The idea being these are still for the scratch-builder. The benefits of an aluminum chassis are: 1) This saves a lot of time in getting a car to the point of final assembly. 2) The chassis is as accurate and square as digital equipment can make. 3) Bushings or bearings can easily be installed without solder. 4) The handling characteristics are track proven. 5) This can help someone get started in scratch-building. Thanks a million to the entire S32 club for helping me learn so much in such a short time! Note: An aluminum chassis with a body you painted counts as scratch-built car in Scratch32 rules.

      Started by: KenKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

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    • 0
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Peterbilt 352 Cabover – Revell Kit 1964 From the Revell Instructions: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is in a class by itself with custom styling, functional design and uncommon rugged beauty. The impressive Peterbilt 352 tractor is a trucker's dream. This cabover engine design reflects Peterbilt's thoroughness in the manner that they engineer and build heavy duty trucks. Every Peterbilt that rolls off the assembly line is custom built to suit the needs of each customer. And on the Box: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is a 10-wheeler with 110' cab and has comfort and elegance built into the driver's compartment and sleeper. The high standard of manufacturing excellence sets it apart from all other trucks. Length: 8 1/4" # of Parts: 59 Molded In: Light Blue Decals: Peel 'N Stick So, after nearly 10 years this project has returned to be the focus of my workbench... A square/rectangular brass frame was constructed to accommodate this body and the 10 wheels that it rolls on - using a high torque king can motor in an inline configuration with 8x29 gearing. The motor powers the first set of dual wheels - the second set tag along and can be removed with a pin for tighter tracks/corners. The cab is so large that in order to fit everything under the gantry/overpasses I will either need to lower it and open up the wheel wells or chop it shorter in some places - the jury is still out on which option to pursue... but for now here are a few spy shots from The Ring: BTW, this is no slouch - in its current configuration it will complete a lap in the 8 second range... but its real purpose will be to transport race models and/or pull a track conditioning/cleaning trailer... stay tuned!!! :good:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1931 Ford Pickup Lindberg kit which I have had for a while.   Parts are from the usual sources, RSSlot wheels, Darts inserts, BWA 050 motor, scratch chassis.  Runs well, quite smooth.  Added a oak strip bed for effect.  Kind of experimented on the paint, dark red first coat, sanded then red on top.  I was look for an aged look but not sure it came off :unsure: .  

      Started by: DBDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • Soldering Essentials for Chassis Building – What You Need 40/60W Soldering Iron Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons - Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip. Tinning Compound New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned. Solder A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis. Flux and Pre-Cleaning You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years. Post Cleaning Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush. Soldering Surfaces & Jigs You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters. Pliers/Cutters A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool. Rotary Tool A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube. Drill with Assortment of Bits Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering. Sandpaper You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces. Files Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks. Optional Tools A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes. Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa Build I was fortunate enough to get 2-unbuilt Corvair kits at the same time. The best of everything from the two went to Art. I'm building this one as a test. This one was missing the front bumper, which isn't really an issue for a Corvair race car. Art has the front bumper to make complete Corsa kits. The paint is Testors "Star Spangled Blue". The colour on lid looks great. The nonsense coming out of the can is another thing altogether. :negative: More to follow...

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 20
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • 1971 Porsche 908/3 double fin model This model is my attempt at building the Porsche 908/3 double fin model driven by J. Siffert and B. Redman in the 1971 Targa Florio; the no. 7 car with  with the Gulf Livery. I began with a white kit, painted the body light Blue using Testors paint which was the best match. Painted green around the front grill I haven't waxed and buffed the car yet, so there are some fingerprints and smudge marks on the body. This model is currently paired with a white (hard) NSR plastic chassis but it also has a custom built aluminium chassis in a SW configuration. Thanks for building the aluminium chassis Ken. Thanks for looking!    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Open Trans Am car suggestions I'm chuckling as I look through the list of cars that ran in the under 2-liter Trans Am class. Ford/Lotus Cortina, Ford Pinto, Chevy Vega, Ford Escort Mk1, Mini Cooper... just to mention but a few. I doubt anyone envied a driver that raced a Pinto. B-) I'm just curious if open TA means any car that can be proven to have raced in Trans Am between 1966 and 1973? As in cars from the list above. Porsche 911's included. Any motor in any proven Trans Am car? Scary thought. The reason I ask... I have a 1969 Porsche 911 and a 1971 Ford Escort Mk1. I can put 40k motors in both cars? :wacko: Cheers, Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Rebuild of GT40 white kit A few years ago I built a white kit for a GT40 and painted it yellow with black hood.  I decided to rebuild this car and do a better job on the livery since the original project fell short of expectations and I was never happy with it.  ... I disassembled the car, removed the driver, cockpit, windshield, lights, grills, etc.  I submerged the yellow livery into a tub of Superclean for 48-72 hours to remove the paint and decals, and scrubbed the body clean with a toothbrush until all the paint was removed. These photos are of the original build that I wasn't happy with. I decided to rebuild the car and copy the #130 - GT40 livery that ran in the 1967 Targa Florio. The freshly repainted body, pearl white with black headlights, hood air intake and rear. I think the second attempt turned out a little better... there were some mistakes made with gluing the body together originally that could not be rectified but the final result was improved.  The body sits on a plastic chassis for the moment, a scratch chassis is a possibility in the distant future.  There are many other projects already in the queue that are a priority. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Ferrari 330 P4 – #224 Well this is a build of a Policar white kit of a Ferrari 330 P4 that I have built in my spare time during the second wave of the lockdown. I decided to build the car that ran in the 1967 Targa Florio #224                         The kit came with two rear motor covers; one with an indented channel and one that is an inverted concave that is used on the stock RTR model. In order to achieve the look of the targa model, I had to cut the roof off the plastic kit and I used the motor cover with the inverted channel.  I then cut a small piece of styrene building siding to fit the channel and glued it into place.  Perfect look to match the original model.  I could take this one step further and paint the vertical bits black but they look good already as they are. These photos were taken prior to the installation of the wiper and headlight lenses.   No chassis built yet, this model sits on a plastic chassis at the moment. Here is the built model next to the stock model that comes RTR with full roof Ready to race.... zoom zoom! Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD.  Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...

      Started by: KenKen in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • McLaren Elva Mk1 Another spare time build The McLaren Elva Mk1 This is my second build of an Elva Mk1 model.  This is a fantasy livery. Having considered many different options, I decided to go with a pearl white and a dull red two tone livery.  Printed some decals off the internet. This model requires a bit of care in some areas like the spare wheel in front of the driver that must be hand painted.  The kit comes with tall and short stacks, I used the short stacks on my previous build, I went with the tall stacks for this model. I like the look of the tall stacks. This model sits on a plastic chassis for now. The two Elva's side by side.    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • Tail lights, turn signals, and back up lights I'm still learning much as a model builder and thought I might share some of my mistakes along the way. I used to use straight bright red to paint tail lights. It took a few cars to figure out that clear red looks much better. The clear lens in the bumper was painted from behind. The bullets painted over top. Both came out better than expected. Turn signals were also giving me grief until someone at Group-25 mentioned that "turn signal amber metallic" was avalaible. For back up lights and white turn signals. Gloss white seems to work okay. Note the plain red paint on the Failane tail light. That was painted before I found the clear red. Such is life. :unsure: If you have something to add or share. Please do! :good:

      Started by: KenKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 0
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Links to slot car sites I ordered some cars from this site some time ago and waited to see whether the site was a scram or not before passing it on. Wait time is fairly long and I wondered whether the site was legit or not. Pricing was quite good, in Canadian dollars, free shipping. Selection is very limited, and mixed in with a bunch of R/C stuff, but if they have something you are interested in and you don't mind waiting then it might work for you. Cars arrived yesterday, no unpleasant surprises,  so site and pricing is as advertised. :good: https://www.shop4ca.com/radio-controlled-cars

      Started by: MiAMiA in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      MiAMiA

    • 1969 and 1971 British Saloon car championship at Crystal Palace See the two links attached which feature the 1969 and 1971 British Saloon Car championship at Crystal Palace.  This is a 15 lap race (16 minutes) that includes Trans Am cars with 5 + litre engines vs Mini's and Escorts with 2 litre engines.  I believe the 1971 race has been posted on our site in the past, I am reposting it as it is one of my Fav's; its literally nose to tail, for the entire race, lots of fun to watch. 1971 British saloon car championship at Crystal Palace https://youtu.be/cawBXWWgqCI 1969 Crystal Palace British championship https://youtu.be/VmQinURuMgU  

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Historical 1:1

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    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Porsche 550 Spyder No.351 as entered the 1954 Mille Miglia open-road endurance I've had this Revell model of the 550 Porsche Spyder sitting on my shelf for a few years; I decided to build an aluminium chassis for it.  This is one of the aluminium chassis I built myself.  Note, I am using PM brass bushings front and rear. This model will fall into the unlimited sports car field, it is set up with a Scalextric ff motor in an anglewinder configuration with a 10 pinion, 29 spur.  Nice quiet gear mesh, runs very well, turning lap times equivalent to a stock group C car in its first few laps.  I think there is room for improvement with the addition of some weight.  I may decide to convert it to an inline configuration after some additional testing.  It's pretty simple with this chassis design, just pop the glued in motor out using a screw driver, mix a new batch of epoxy and glue it in again in the desired configuration.  A 10 to 15 minute process. The car is set up with MRRC wheels; 13.6 x 5mm fronts and 13.6 x 7 mm rear.  These are very nice wheels, designed to take many different size inserts, they are available with a long or short boss, these have the short boss for easy access and they use a 2.6mm set screw which does not strip very easily. A great looking model. Some additional shaping work is required to conceal the chassis it will be cut into a pointed configuration at the rear and painted black. Look forward to racing this model soon... ZOOM ZOOM!    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Shelby GT-350 I started this car before I had proper direction. A newbie mistake if you will. I did not realize when I chose the "Candy Lime Green" colour that S32 Sportscar class stops at 1965. After a little bit of digging. I found a 1966 Shelby GT-350 that was entered in the 1967 Targa Florio (#210). A scarce American Mustang among a field of mostly European cars. It didn't make the race due to an accident during practice. It became a one-of-a-kind GT-350 BBQ. There are very few pictures of this car simply because it didn't race. This Shelby was all white. After taking 3-days to remove some really nice paint. The "Candy Lime Green" Shelby became all white. The chassis. I put a little more effort into manipulating the rear of the chassis so it tucks under the rear valance. Measure twice, cut once. The Shelby fits in the GT+2.0 class and requires a Scalex 18k motor. I went with 9x28 gears with an offset crown to keep the CG as low as possible. You can still see hints of green under the body. Hard to get it all out. The chassis tucks nicely under rear valance. It's a tight fit. The car came with black wheels. Inserts are D'Art 5-spokes. The car sits fairly low. The body could have gone even lower. But it's my humble opinion that it would not improve the look even though there might be a slight handling improvement to lowering it further. It's very difficult see the chassis under the body unless you lay your eye on the track. Mission accomplished in my books. The car has body-float.The tires don't rub on the fenders even at the extreme flex of the body-float. But they sure can't get any closer than they already are. It should be ready for the next Targa Florio. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 65 Pontiac GTO A friend (Another Michael) in Group-25 model club gave me this Monogram static kit and said "Make it go!". I finally decided to take his advice. It might make an excellent "Classic Stock Car". The picture on the front makes the car look tall and skinny. The decals on the side of the car look terrible. Two things I plan to avoid with this build. This is what comes in the box. After water sanding the body with 2000-grit paper. It's ready for paint. Tamiya orange covers the red fairly well without primer. I ditched the decals and threw the tall and skinny idea out the window. The rest of the field of Classic Stock Cars were the inspiration for the final body-height of this GTO. There is much yet to be completed like blacking out the front grills. Painting the tail lights red. The body requires Molotow chrome pen detailing. The driver is on order. He's out getting a hamburger, fries, and a Coke. One suggestion for a sponser is "Kickapoo Joy Juice". You would need to have lived through the mid 60's and already be self-aware to remember this old soft-drink (soda pop). Perfect for a vintage 1965 car.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 65 AC Cobra I bought a Ninco AC Cobra missing some parts a long while back. Steve and Art were with me at Carefree Hobbies when Nick (store owner) quoted $20. My brothers in slot cars were a bit dissapointed that they didn't see the car first. I was lucky that day. Thanks Nick! The body used to look like this. The car I would like to make is a Targa Florio livery from 1966. It will also serve as a Sportscar SP+. This idea started long before last July when I originally painted the body. Too many plans... Too many cars... The sun really makes the metallic pop. This Cobra will get a Scalex FF 050 slim line motor with an offset crown - 9 x 27. Stock, legal motor for this class.

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.  

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 7
    • 27
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • D'Art BRM 578 The Hot Rod Garage was open for business today. I need to solder a pinion gear. Then the motor can be glued in place and wired. It took a lot of extra sanding to get the chassis to fit the back of the body. I had to install the bearings on the inside because the flanges were in the way. I hope to have it running later today sometime. Very little room for the rear body post so it had to be drilled offset. Everything is a super tight fit at the back of the car. But it all fits. Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 9
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Boulevard Cruisers I stumbled across a very detailed kit last year I thought was a loner. At the Group25 show last weekend, I discovered there is a series of these cars. Gunze Sangyo is the manufacturer of these stunning 1/32 kits. You rarely see this type of detail. The chrome is over the top and really sparkles. There 7-cars to choose from: A 1955 Chevy Nomad, 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy Brougham, 59 Caddy Seville, 59 Impala Sport, 59 Fairlane 500, and a 63 Thunderbird. Many are around $25 on EBay.   The 59 Impala comes with 4-options for the roof. Open back seat, rear seat cover, soft top, or hard top. The 63 Thunderbird comes with 3-options for the roof. Open back seat, tonneau cover, or full roof. Art saw these kits at the show and it inspired him enough to suggest a new class of street racers without numbers. May I suggest it be called "Boulevard Cruisers"? White walls, low riders, slow motors... I also located a 59 Eldorado Biarritz. It's supposed to arrive next week. I really hope this turns into a new class in the future as Art suggested. These cars from Gunze Sangyo are stunningly beautiful! EBay search "gunze sangyo 1/32"

      Started by: KenKen in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 4
    • 41
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1971 Targa Florio video Here's 31-minutes of the 1971 Targa we all know and love. Stick with it through the slow parts. You'll probably learn a little Italian before the end of the video. Nice interview with Nino Vaccarella. A few club members might recognize their liveries. The faster cars taking off from the starting line are insane! :yahoo: https://www.facebook.com/GentlemenDriversASD/videos/215963979626676/ Cheers, Ken

      Started by: KenKen in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • HOT ROD – 1932 Plymouth I bought this kit from Ken a couple of months ago, a perfect candidate for a Hot Rod build.  Inspired by Ken's candy apply red, I painted the car gold first, then red to get the candy apple finish. The body sits on an aluminium chassis, that I custom built. This is Lindberg Kit no. 2143 The plastic model motor was taken from another Lindberg kit and glued to the front of the chassis.  SCC steel wheels up front and wider 14" x 8mm rear MRRC wheels.  The rear hubs are also taken from another Lindberg kit and required some sanding to size. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to enlarge the rear wheel wells.  It allowed me to lower the body over the rear wheels. I cut the front side quarter panels to expose the model motor that I painted and glued to the chassis.   The white glue is still drying on the front windshield, once dry it will be less visible. I will be adding a number of additional details and will go over the body and complete a few touch ups. I can say that this is a very nice handling car, a pleasure to drive. Thanks for looking.   P.S. If you are thinking of building a car but keep putting it off because you believe that your building ability falls short of your expectations or standards, I say forge ahead.  Expect to make mistakes-you may scrap a few chassis before you get it right but just keep pushing ahead until you finish building your car.  You will learn from your build and will take that knowledge to your next build which will be easier...  Don't be afraid to begin, just do it and stop procrastinating.  Your experience will yield you a model you can drive at one of the upcoming events, and that will be very rewarding.            

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 7
    • 3 years ago

      JMSracerJMSracer

    • The only road-legal Porsche 917 in the world? Count Gregorio Rossi (Martini & Rossi) was once photographed driving his road legal Porsche 917 from Stuttgart to Paris. That finally explains why Fly made this car. I've always thought it was interesting, But never knew it actually existed.   The body has an external ID number making it legal for R32 Classic LeMans. The licence plate counts as a number. The last 2-digits are #37.

      Started by: KenKen in: Modified Slot Car Models

    • 3
    • 8
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • Rio Grand Prix (Gavea) 1934 – 1937 In the 1930's the Grande Prêmio da Cidade de Rio de Janeiro were held on the infamous 11.16km long Gavea track known locally as Trampolin do Diablo ("The devil's spring board"). This course followed the coast on the edge of a cliff and returned to Gavea up in the mountains where it featured a series of hairpins in hazardous terrain... a wonderful historic course! And the vehicles that raced there ranged from lowly Ford V8's to Alfa's, Ferrari's, Bugatti's and yes - even an Autounion! Click on the attached .pdf below to review this article - it features interesting facts with numerous pictures about an obscure Grand Prix course and the pilots and their cars that navigated it... Enjoy! :yahoo:

      Started by: AvatarArthur in: Historical 1:1

    • 4
    • 10
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • #40 – 1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 This build is the famous #40-1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 which has been has in progress for more than six, months due to delays with the decals arriving in a timely manner due to the pandemic.  I custom designed and printed decals for this model.  The orange section in front of the car will be painted on as it proved to be impossible to get a decals to adhere to this area in an acceptable manner. Photos of the actual car     My attempt The body has been paired with a custom built aluminium chassis - 100% built by the JMS garage.  The 21.5k Piranha motor has been glued onto the chassis in an AW configuration.  Originally I had used a 12T pinion, which was switched to 11T to get more brake. This photo with windshield and gas caps installed. Ready to race... zoom, zoom. Thanks for looking.    

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special As previously announced, see attached photos of the completed model of the 1959 WATSON Roadster Simoniz Special.  This model placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500 with Jim Rathmann at the wheel. This model will be run with a custom built Aluminium chassis. The BWA ff050 motor is glued into place with epoxy as is the plastic bracket holder for the extended motor arm/shaft and pinion.  A touch of solder was applied to each side of the spring supporting the extended motor shaft. A photo of the body kit. The parts have all been painted in this photo, including the seat, driver, all silver parts and inserts.  The inserts do not fit the RS slot wheels, Dart inserts will be used instead. The wheels are RS slot 15x7mm rear and 15x5mm front.  Rear tires are the new Dart D7.5.  The trued diameter is 23.40mm for the rear and 21.2mm for the front.  Track width is 53.65mm rear and 52mm front. Thanks for looking.              

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      f1nutzf1nutz

    • HOW WE TALLY FINAL RACE RESULTS For most members, building is a work in progress and it takes time to built up a full inventory of cars to race at every event, especially with this group which has over twenty classes and counting.  Members must be encouraged to build as much as possible and allowed to race their builds as much as possible.  Having fun should always be the main driver that is given greatest weight by all. I realize this may be a controversial issue but it is not intended to be..., I am raising it only from the point of view of fairness.  Fairness is the central theme that we base all our rules on and is also the main point considered in any type of racing.  I ask that all members put on your stewards hat and consider this topic without any bias.  Assume that you are the adjudicating panel of a racing body,  your mandate is to decide what is the fair and proper course of action.  I would hope that whatever is decided by the group be applied to future events and will not have any bearing on past events. Currently, all members race the cars that they have built and registered for any particular event.  If a member has built only one car, and there are four separate races held at one event, then that member may race their only model in all four races as a separate entrant.  At present, that members best result from all four separate races with the same car will be awarded, against all the other members that have not had an opportunity to race the same car repeatedly, in multiple races.  The final result awarded to all other members is the result they achieved in only one race-their first and only race with that car. 1) Is the current award method fair to all? 2) Should we continue to award a racer on this basis or would it be more fair for each individual car to be permitted to race as many races as there are at any one event but the result awarded that car should be the result achieved from only the first race that car raced?  In other words, after the first race, the member will be allowed to race their car as often as they want in the remaining races but in terms of keeping score, that car will only be considered as a place holder after its first race, it's subsequent race result will not count in the final tally. I look forward to an open discussion on this topic.

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: R32

    • 3
    • 6
    • 3 years ago

      AvatarArthur

    • 1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building.  Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960).  Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy.  A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor.  I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it.  The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view...  The lighting is poor in this photo.  Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann   My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week.  Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: JMSracerJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

    • 6
    • 13
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

    • 1967 Canadian Proxy Race Just as another reference………..this one was built by Marc Tyler (Immense Miniatures) for a proxy a couple of years back,….it was for cars that ran in the 1967 F1 World Championship, and was run on tracks across Canada. The quality of the cars was such that Marc’s car only finished 3rd in the concours judging Chris Walker BTW that car of Marc Tyler’s is so good I thought I could hear it running. Fantastic sound, nothing compares to a 12 cylinder BRM!! (I also have a very vivid imagination!). Inspiring  and demoralizing  at the same time. What/who finished higher in concours than that. One of yours Chris? While my car for this proxy ran well, and managed to win the series, the build quality and finish of the cars was very high, and, I did not win the concours segment. Concours was won (deservedly so) by David Mitchams Ferrari 312. While my car turned out well, it did not match David’s Ferrari in the beauty contest !!

      Started by: AvatarAnonymous in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 1
    • 3 years ago

      KenKen

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