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1954 Ferrari 250 MONZA This car was originally intended to be the #22 car that raced in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana. I had prepared and printed the decals about 2 years ago along with the #21 for its sister car as a back up and then I placed it on my to do list. A couple of months ago I had commissioned Ken to build a chassis for this car and during this process, I discovered that he too was working on building the same car. Having printed decals for both models, I gave him the #22 set and finished the car as #21. There are many photos of the #21 car as a model, but I was not able to uncover any of real McCoy. Here is one of the photos of the model. Here is my attempt. There is some orange peel... the paint was completed a few years ago, the model was converted to a 250 Monza and the scratch built chassis switched to a new aluminium chassis. One additional decal will be placed over the rear wheel well. I did consider dunking it into super clean and starting from scratch agin but the front grill, windscreen and driver were already installed. Some modifications were required to the air intake on the hood and the side openings. The aluminium chassis built by Ken's garage. Some fine work happens in that garage... This is an ad for Ken's garage... ;-) A brass plate is added for weight and to balance the car and to give it better handling into corners. The plate is held in place by two screws and can be switched with a smaller lighter plate. Thanks for looking
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Indy Roadsters are coming! I'm sure we've all been looking forward to the debut of the Indy Roadsters. After talking to Art at Monday nights race it appears we will have a race scheduled towards the end of this years S32 season. The rules are firming up and here is what we have so far. -Any true, front engined roadster that was registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards to the very last roadster in 1967 is eligible. -Only the FF050 slow motor may be used in a front motor, rear drive configuration with the motor ahead of the cockpit. -Cars must weigh a minimum of 80 grams. -Cars may use any size wheels and tires as long as they represent a reasonably scale appearance. -Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced in are allowed For anyone having trouble locating roadster bodies e-Bay is a great resource. Geodies is a seller that usually has several eligible bodies available and he is willing to combine shipping. Here is a link to a current body on sale https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-32-Bardahl-Ferrari-Indianapolis-resin-body-kit-slotcar/193310078141?hash=item2d022db4bd:g:izcAAOSwDuleJzIi. e-Bay also often has old Eldon roadsters on sale. Rules may need a little polishing going forward but hopefully by keeping things relatively simple we can all rise tothe challenge of building a front engine roadster . I'm looking forward to seeing what we all come up with . Lets get building!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Lotus 25 This is a super shells Lotus 25 body married to a simple scratch built brass and piano wire chassis. The decals applied to this body are from a 1965 Indianapolis Lotus 38. This is a 1.5L car, therefore it is set up with a BWA motor, geared 10P x 23. I wasn't satisfied with the first paint, so the body was soaked in super clean overnight, scrubbed clean and remanded, then repainted. The second attempt. The completed project. Ready to be raced Thanks for looking
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Lighting Whether for working on a car. Or taking photos after. You can't paint the details if you can't see the details. Lights are an important part of my workbench. Specially as I get umm... older. :whistle: I have been using the same cheap $59 camera since my first 1949 blue Tudor. It looks like the pics were taken in a dark dungeon. Then I found out that I needed more lights just to do the work. That inadvertently provided more light for photos... The same $59 camera was now taking way better pictures. What just happened?? Ambient light below. With better direct and reflective lighting below. Same camera, distance, and setting. The bench in ambient room lighting below. The lights turned on for photos almost cancel the ambient lights from the room below. If you watch photographers. They always pay extra attention to lighting. Camera's usually prefer bright lights. The detailed and crisp photo of the Lotus was with all three lights on, at close range/macro setting. Here's the $59 camera that took all the shots so far. This one was taken with an iphone. Thanks for looking.
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 3 years ago
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Cooper Ford This is a Cooper Ford that I had painted a few years ago and ran with an MRRC chassis but was not satisfied with the finished product. I repainted the car and married it with a aluminium chassis built by Ken. The car is powered by a 14k motor glued to the chassis and geared 10P x 23. I forgot to install the lenses ... Thanks for looking
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Wheels: 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Gents, for those of you looking to upgrade the wheels on your 1970's Grand Prix cars these are my recommendations: Front: BWA BW13-300-093-375 which take a Small BWA insert and will fit the RM0202 tire (which will need to be trued down significantly); Rear: Part Number PCS321413 "Classic Scalextric F1 Rear" from Pendle which has the typical skinny scalextric rib and will work with SC0105, SC0106 and FL0101 although none of these tires are a direct fit and would need to be glued in place. A small BWA insert will need to be 'tubed' with styrene to enlarge it enough to fit inside the .415" insert opening. One other factor - these wheels do have a small boss for the set screw so make sure you have enough room for them to fit (68.5mm) - otherwise you will need to use single flanged bushings (with the flange on the inside of the bushing holders) - but since the boss is not that large (approx. 2.5mm) they should fit most applications without issue; Both of these front and back wheels are aluminium (which are allowed). Furthermore, there are other rear wheels available, some of which I have yet to try myself but this should get anyone started. Of course, if you are upgrading your wheels you will also want to replace your axle, bushings and crown gear (make sure to keep the mandated ratio however). Cheers! :good:
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 3 years ago
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Strombecker McLaren M1B Strombecker made some of the nicest molds, and the McLaren M1B, was one of their nicest, and very much to scale,....it is a tiny little bugger !! It really does not look all that great in stock form, sitting high, and without any details/decals. Anyway, it has been sitting in my workroom for eons, and with the forced hometime we are all enduring, I have decided to make it my next build. Trying to make this..............this one is not mine, unfortunately mine is a little worse for wear.......... Into something like this................so a few bits to be made/added. I started with the chassis, as I find these the easy part of the job..........a simple single rail chassis with .047 main rails, set for 2mm+ clearance with 19+ mm tyres. This will be powered by a FF050 motor. I have started the bodywork........removed all bits, opened the vents, (as they should be , they were closed in the original), and added a front diaplane, and a rear spoiler. Still a lot of clean up to do...........but the rear molded in screens/vents have been opened as on the original. The car is tiny,....I think I mentioned that,.....luckily the shortest wheelbase setting on my jig was perfect !! Still miles to go, but, I will post updates...... Stay Safe Chris Walker
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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32 Ford seda hot rod New to this forum. Usually build sports cars but in recent years have delved into domestic hot rods. Had the opportunity to build starting with a resin copy of the old 1/32 Aurora 32 Ford Ski-Doo body. Built a simple ladder chassis with .055" piano wire, .064" brass strip and a JK F1 motor bracket. Power's a Slot It flat can with a Slot It pinion and Plafit crown gear (3mm). Went with a 3mm rear axle as the hot rod rims I had were for that size axle. Fronts are RS Slot Racing rims with tires of unknown origin. Came out well with quite a raked stance. Runs pretty good in a straight line but I really prefer cars that can handle the corners. Dan
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- 3 years ago
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1951 Tudor I thought I might as welladd my Tudor as well. The colour is a proxy for the Ford colour plalette of the era albeit a few shades lighter. The car weighs in at 82 grams, 10/30 gearing, motor is a Scaly S can. The car runs @ 7.5 secs on my track (which is a bit longer but less technical than The Ring). My original Tudor runs an 8 sec with BWA motor. Pic to follow.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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1963 Thunderbird This is a 1/32 scale Gunze Sangyo model kit. I had never heard of these model kits until I saw three models that Ken had built a few months ago. I was inspired by the quality of the parts and the fine details incorporated in this kit and I always loved the look of the Thunderbird. The model falls into the new category of Boulevard Cruisers. A special thanks to Ken who assisted with the chassis build and was a great painting coach. The model comes with a back seat and roof. I preferred the look of the convertible with two seats and head rests. The BWA Scan motor is glued to the chassis using epoxy in an anglewinder configuration. Geared 14 pinion x 30 spur gear. Here is the model with a headless driver. I considered installing a female as the pilot in this model but didn't have a usable torso with bust, therefore A street version pilot without a Helmut will be installed. The kit comes with two different sets of chrome wheels, I carved out the inserts and will be using them to finish this model. Very pleased with how well this car runs. I think the headless driver would have been pulled over for high speed driving if the cops weren't in lockdown mode ;-). Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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1963 Cheetah A little History After Ford had retained Carroll Shelby to build a car that would beat Ferrari at LeMans, GM hired Bill Thomas in 1963 to build a style machine that would compete with the Shelby Mustang and Cobra. Thomas was nicknamed Mr. Corvette for having achieved almost 100 victories with Corvettes he built to race. Bill Thomas parlayed his Corvette success with GM into a contract as a performance guru. He ended up building between 10 and 27 Cheetah's. One model was used in the Elvis Presley movie spin out in 1965. Early models of the car DNF races in 1963 due to crashes or mechanical failures. The most successful Cheetah's were driven by Ralph Salyer who won 11 major USRRC races in 1964 and many local and minor events across the USA between 1964 and 1967. Salyer's race car #25 was also known as the Pro-Sal Cheetah, named after its mechanic Gene Crowe as well as Salyer. This model is my attempt at the #64 - 1963 Cheetah built by Bill Thomas Prior to applying decals A can of Tamiya was used - Italian Red; to paint this model. The Body kit is from MRRC The body was mounted to an MMRC sebring chassis that was assembled with to match wheel base of body and a brass tube was glued in place to support the front axel These chassis are the best plastic chassis for the Sport Car class in my opinion. Front Wheels RSslot - RSW005 - 13' x 5mm wide Rear Wheels RSslot - RSW006 - 13" x 7mm wide Vanski Motor 14,000 RPM; Gearing 10P x 23 offset Weighs 62 grams complete "as is". Some weight will be added although none is required, the car runs very well and handles well as is.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Paint can spinner I sometimes wake up the house by shaking rattle-cans late at night after everyone else has gone to bed. Oops. Towels and/or rags around the can doesn't seem to help enough. I had to recently create/invent a small bucket-spinner for a customer. That got me to thinking about a paint can spinner. Ingredients: Scrap wood. A few drywall screws. Old 12VDC power supply. Old crappy slot car chassis. Gear-motor from "Princess Auto" surplus department ($15). And about 45-minutes of serious goofing around. :wacko: The chassis was cut apart to use the front axle to balance the drive and give the can 4-points of rotational stability. The tires were removed from the wheels for less rolling resistance. The tires weren't very round anyways. It spins the can about one and a half revolutions per second. Just enough to barely hear the widget rolling around. 20 to 30-minutes of spinning should get the sediment off the base of the can. A few shakes in warm water just before painting should do the rest (hopefully without waking the house).
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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1949 Ford Tudor in orange This 1949 Lindberg Ford Tudor Coupe might be the most prolific model in this club with many fine examples. Having built two already, I had a third kit sitting in my cabinet for about three years. Due to an abundance of time with the shelter in place orders, I circled my wagons back to it and decided it would make a bright hot rod with a BWA slimline motor. Many thanks to Ken, who took the time to assist on this build. The BWA motor is simply glued onto the chassis with epoxy. Gearing is 10P x 23P Looking forward to racing this model. Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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D’Arts Ferrari 612 Can Am I finally finished my D'Arts Ferrari 612 Can Am it sits on my first scratch build bronze chassis, I will take some pictures of the chassis the show everyone what not to do when you are doing a bronze chassis.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Austin Healey 3000 This is an Aurora kit purchased from the Group 25 show in March 2019. The kit body came in 3 pieces, top, and two sides. I really dislike 3 piece kits as they are tricky to fit together and get a good fit, this one was no different as it took a lot of filling and sanding along the joins. I am going to post a series of pictures of specs, body and chassis and hope you enjoy. The paint is Testors Custom Red Metal Flake plus Testors Semi-Gloss Clear. Front indicator and rear tail lights are stick ons from Pendles. Windshield is custom made from brass and painted as no screen was in the kit. Interior is leatherette left over from a chair covering over card stock as original seats would not fit in. As Bugs use to say … that's all folks! C
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts. Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair. Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes. Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Airfix 1933 MG K3 Magnette Hi Gents: I have been interested in this car for its appearance and its history. I’ve had the Airfix kit in my eBay shopping cart for a while, but have decided that I can’t afford it. I’m posting it here in case someone else may be interested in it. It’s the Airfix 8204, 1933 MG K3 Magnette. It is listed at $35 usd, but it’s shipped through eBay’s ‘Global Shipping Program’. This redirects the package from the seller, to a third party facility in Erlanger, KY (often in the opposite direction to the purchaser’s destination), apparently re-packages it then ships it to the purchaser. They also tack on an import charge ‘to cover duties’. In fact, model kits, diecast models, slotcars are all categorized as toys by the Canada Border Services Agency and do not require duties or excise fees, (though they can trigger GST, usually collected by Canada Post). There have also been many complaints from sellers and buyers regarding poor handling, damaged and missing packages at the Erlanger facility. It’s basically another scheme to allow eBay to skim off more money from the purchaser. I have always refused, on principle, to buy anything shipped through their GSP. It looks like a nice kit for our pre-war series, but I don’t know the quality. I have found some of the Airfix kits made in England to be excellent, whereas some others have been terrible in terms of moulding and casting. (This one is made in Texas by USAirfix, and is the 1980 re-box edition.) It is listed at $35 usd (C$50), plus $10.50 ship to Canada, but when you go to buy it, there is an additional $10.50 that shows up as ‘import fees’. That brings the total to $56 usd, or C$82 with the added PayPal exchange surcharge. That’s more than twice my limit for a 32’nd scale model kit. However, someone else in the group may have a higher cost threshold, or may have a US shipping address set up through their business, or through a relative. But even with that, it may still be overpriced. (I’ll still buy one if I can find a fair price.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/USAirfix-Kit-8204-K3-Magnette-MG-1-32-Scale-USAirfix-Plastic-Model-SEALED-NIB/324101968737
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Symmetric Masking Patterns for painting a car body. (This is a generalized and expanded version of some suggestions I made to a member who had said he had experienced some difficulties with masking work. Another member later asked me to place my ideas in this How-To forum.) Finishing a car body often entails some curvilinear shapes that need to be replicated symmetrically between left and right sides of the body. These can range from fairly simple to very complex curves, as shown by various photos below. Lola T70 Can-Am; Dan Gurney and John Surtees. (1966 Bridgehampton won by Gurney, the only Can-Am race won by a Ford engine. Surtees won the first race in this inaugural season, three of the six races in total, as well as the series championship.) Mercedes Benz 300 SL; Factory car, Carrera Pan Americana Ford Daytona Prototype Porsche 917K; Psychedelic/ Hippie In terms of the masking, these symmetric patterns are very difficult to replicate from left to right. I’m not an expert, but I’ve had some success with this approach; you may want to try it on your next finishing job. Buy a few widths of Tamiya masking tape, thin and flexible. Testors also makes a version that you may find useful. Before doing any painting, stick the tape over the areas – on one side of the body, that you want to remain as the light colour. Take a pencil, pen, or marker and draw as smooth an outline of the perimeter shapes you want to achieve. (Doesn’t need to be perfect at this stage.) Find a piece of Lexan (clear plastic sheet) from a container of some sort. Remove the sections of masking tape that you have scribed from one side of the body. Stick those scribed sections of tape spread out onto the Lexan sheet. On the back of the Lexan sheet, stick new strips of tape to coincide with the ones on the front. I have also used wax paper, instead of Lexan, as the middle layer and it also seems to work well. Remember, your original scribing did not have to be perfect; now the next step does have to be perfect! Find a sharp large pair of scissors. Carefully cut a smooth line (through the three layers) along the scribe marks you had made while the tape was on the car body. You now have sections of flexible masking tape back-to-back in symmetric mirror images. Save these until later. You can now start the first stage of painting. Prepare the body with sanding and washes as you see fit. Apply your choice of primer, possibly Tamiya fine grade white, if you intend on using light coloured regions on the body. Do any follow-up smoothing and further preparation; a second coat of primer may be needed. After curing, apply your light colour finish coat. Let cure fully then do any follow-up smoothing. Now, carefully peal the tape pieces from both sides of the Lexan and place them at the corresponding positions on the car body. Make sure they are stretched properly and that the edges are smooth and tightly adhered to the body. You are ready to start spraying the first coat of your second colour (the darker colour). Mist the dark colour over the taped pattern and the rest of the body. Do the appropriate follow-up spray steps. Let the final coat cure partly but not to a full hard shell. Carefully remove the tape masks after the final paint is dry to the touch, but still has a bit of flex. Do any follow-up refinements. You may want to clear-coat at this stage. I should mention that I have not yet applied this method to finishing any 1/32’nd scale bodies. ( I used to use it - with limited precision and success as a ten year old kid, on my IMC and MPC 25’th scale LM bodies. ) With new improvements in tape, I’ve used the method more recently on 24’th scale track bodies. The 32’nd scale bodies are 1/3 smaller than 24’th, therefore the compound curvatures will be higher. If I encounter an adhesion or wrinkle problem with the mask due to increased surface curvature, I intend to use a band of the narrowest masking tape ( a couple of mm wide) and stretch it around the perimeter to smooth out any problem areas. This method is not limited to making mirrored shapes between left and right sides of the body. It can be applied to central shapes that need to be symmetric, such as waterfalls patterns. Scribe your pattern near the centre on one side of the body, mark an axis of symmetry, remove the scribed mask from the body, place your line of symmetry along the straight edge of your Lexan sheet, then wrap your scribed masking tape around the front and back of the Lexan. You are now ready to move to the smooth cutting step. You will end up with a mask that is symmetric but is this time, a single pattern to be applied along the centreline of the body. Lotus 49, Ford/Cosworth; Team Lotus. Jim Clark, pole sitter of 1967 Italian Grand Prix, fell to 3’rd due to a faulty fuel pump on the last lap. Hope this works well for you; I’m no expert. You should be able to improve on the method. Felix. I used to be one of the sharpest tools in the shed; now I’m just a slot-head !
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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New Car Carrier I bought a new car carrier at the last slot car show. I still need to install a hingle for the lid and handle at the top. It should be able to carry 6-cars plug the controller. The rig stays attached. It will be a bit hard to carry around. But it is sure to get some interesting reactions. Actually, it's just for a diorama. The NASCAR snap-together Peterbilt truck came with a cool machine shop where the purple Mini is sitting. The shop tools are 2-vices, a drill press, and a belt sander with a grinding wheel. I still prefer a breadbox as a car carrier. :good:
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in: How To – Scenerize It
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- 3 years ago
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Looking Ahead – Scratch32 Rules Update Gents, Looking ahead and given feedback to date we'll be implementing a few updates to our scratch32 rules (v4) for this summer. These will be: restricting the 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP) class motor to the BWMS050 ONLY and removing the VANSKI as an option - since they have not been available for many years now - VANSKI motors are still eligible for other low power motor scratch32 classes (unless specifically excluded); adding a pre-CANAM class covering 1960-1965 USRRC & SCCA models - which will be divided into PC and PC+ subclasses; and adding an open Trans Am class (TA+) (1966 - 1973) which will allow period fantasy liveries and have no motor restriction. The second update was already tested in our last CANAM Thunder event and the third will be implemented for CANAM Thunder IV...
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- 3 years ago
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Jag XK120 Carrera Panamericana This build was inspired by DB's white XK120. He also gave me the body. Thanks Dave! I was looking to build another Carrera Panamericana car. I found a gentleman by the name of Frank Hern that drove an XK120 in the 1952 race. He did not finish due to an accident. It's my least favorite colour. But "British Racing Green" is extemely accurate for the times of the Carrera Panamericana. :wacko: I love the spats! D'Art blue dot tires on old CB wheels. Use what you got!
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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What type of Aston Martin is this? I saw a kit like this on EBay and it made me curious if there was a real Aston that looked like the one on the box? Or could the drawing be a little off?
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 3 years ago
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Cadillac, Cadillac, Cadillac Eldorado Well I started work on the '57 Caddy Brougham. Ken's comparison pic with his Nascar reminded me that I had a little used scratch chassis under my Petty Plymouth so I thought I could probably re-purpose the chassis to fit under the Caddy. Wheelbase needs a bit of a stretch but fortunately I can add an additional axle tube in front of the existing tube so I can convert the chassis back and forth if needed. Cheers! Bill
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 3 years ago
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Avoiding dust in paint This is just about my bad experiences with dust. Not how to apply paint. There's no bigger dissapointment than leaving your paint almost perfect with the last wave of the spray can and coming back to... fresh paint covered with dust or pet hair. I had to sit back and think of the many possible reasons that could affect the final finish. Any one alone could easily ruin a paint-job. 1) Dog 2) Cat 3) Shop tools (bandsaw, belt sander) 4) Forced air heat/AC 5) My wife doing things around the house such as laundry 6) My own clothes I created a system to try and combat every possible angle I could think of. This is starting out with a body that's already prepared for paint. The basement kitchen fan is used to evacuate the fumes. The entire area around and behind the oven-top is lined with cardboard and black garbage bags. Now I can explain a process that seems to work for this household. 1) I start the basement kitchen fan around 10PM. Throw a paint can on a stirring device. Then go upstairs closing the door behind me to leave the basement undisturbed until midnight (No pets allowed). The kitchen fan has time to remove ambient dust around the paint area. 2) I turn the heat/AC off around 11PM. 3) At around midnight the rest of the house goes to bed and I slowly and carefully make my way to basement closing the door behind me to keep the pets upstairs. I walk very slowly to prevent stirring dust up from the floor. 4) I head to the landry room first to put on a fresh T-shirt and jeans. Pet hair is the worst! 5) I give the body a fresh wash. Then rinse in filtered water to avoid residue. Dry the body with a dust-free towel. It's ready for paint. 6) Heat the can that's been stirring for the last 2-hours in hot water for 2-minutes. It's ready to paint. I paint the body with 4-coats using a 1-minute timer between coats. After 4-minutes of painting I slowly walk back upstairs, close the basement door, and watch TV for an hour. After an hour I turn the heat/AC back on and go check the paint. Hopefully I go to bed with a smile. I installed exhaust outlets on my belt sander and bandsaw that fit the shop-vac to help keep the residual shop dust down. But prefer not to cut or sand anything the day I paint a body. I wish everyone the best of luck in finding your own way to paint without that dreaded dust thing. :good:
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 3 years ago
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Keeping track of paint cans Running out of paint near the end of painting a car will ruin a paint job. A full can of Tamiya spray paint ranges from 133-grams to 138-grams. Empty, the can weighs 60-grams. (cap included) It takes more paint to cover a car when you make an extreme colour change. It also take more paint to cover a car when you use paints that are weak in pigment strength like yellow. You can sometimes get 2-paint jobs out of a can of paint if you don't fight the colour. Sometimes it's just not possible. I weigh the cans before, and after using them to see if there's enough paint for a second car. For me, the can becomes touch-up paint only once they go below 95-grams. Specially yellow. The last 5 to 7-grams grams of any can are often not useful because the spray becomes erratic near the end. All used cans get marked with a permanent marker stating the weight, and are weighed with the cap on. Testors paint cans are about the same. Best of luck with what ever you're painting and building!
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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D’Art inserts in Slot.It wheels made easy I have some regular Slot.It wheels and wanted to install a specific D'Art insert that's only supposed to fit a standard RS-Slot wheel. I bought a package of standard Slot.It inserts and gently sanded down the spokes to pop out the center and expose the outer ring by itself. It was easy to press the D'Art insert into the ring. I could not get the inserts out of the rings once they were pressed in. I'll use a drop of glue to make sure they don't move. I used 150-grit sand paper. It took 15-minutes of sanding by hand to get the spokes out from the outer rings. The belt sander would have disolved/melted the inserts in seconds. Slow is sometimes better. Now anyone can install just about any standard 14mm D'Art insert in almost any 15"-inch Slot.It wheel. The sky is the limit. Thanks for looking, Ken
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in: How To – Build It
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- 4 years ago
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HSV This is my last build, I think it does not qualify for any of our classes but I learn and enjoy working on it.
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- 4 years ago
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Can Am Lola I had a hard time trying to make the white lines without damaging the blue painting job, my masking needs experience and improvements so I had to do corrections that did not come out as expected
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- 4 years ago
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Cooper Ford T61 With nothing on the workbench. Time to get started on something new specifically for the 1960-1965 SCCA series. I purchased this body kit from Professor Motor and somehow managed to get most of it completed a little at a time between all the other cars I've built. The last thing to do was to make a chassis. Not what I would call the right order to do things, but it is what it is. Making the chassis first would avoid scratching the paint. But that would take patience. Whatever that is... A BWNC1 was supposed to go in this car at first. Then I ran into some clearance problems with the larger motor. A BWMS050 should hopefully do the job. I know what I'm doing over the holidays... Assembly. I would like to wish the entire group at S32/R32 a very Merry Christmas! Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 8
- 4 years ago
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Race To Line vs. Race To Laps & Rotate On Time Some of you remember the days of SRO and SS32 when many hosts used SRM, a DOS based timing system. The advantage was that you could take an old DOS based piece of sh*t and give it renewed purpose. Each host used their own preferred timing method with this software. One method (and the best one in my opinion) allowed everyone to race for a set amount of laps in every lane and the total time to complete their laps would be used to determine the race finish order with the fastest (lowest) time winning. This worked well enough with the one huge drawback that no heat was finished until the last car ran its total number of laps. You didn't need power shut off for this timing method and you could make the timing hardware yourself. Other hosts used the old school timing method whereby every racer would start at the same point on the track (usually the start/finish line) and then race with the others for a set amount of time in each heat, rotating into another lane from the point at which they stopped, or out, or in, depending on rotation order. After power for the final heat switched off you would look at the screen to see the total laps run by every racer and ties would need to be manually recorded based on finishing track position, with the car finishing more of the lap placing higher. Often the track would be divided into 1/10ths to make tracking finish position easier. Several drawbacks existed when using this method: the racers were often spread out and on longer tracks there was little passing or excitement, cheating was possible when rotating your car (especially after sitting out a while) and the results often needed to be tabulated manually. Then came along SlotTrak which allowed an additional timing method of 'race to line' along with refueling. (To Be Continued)
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- 4 years ago
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Ferrari 158 This is the Dart kit Ferrari 158. This particular model is of the winning car as driven in the 1964 Italian GP by John Surtees; #2. JS was also the winner of the F1 Championship in 1964. The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and some brass. Bearings were used in the rear, a square brass tube was used to support the front axel. Silver foil packaging material from a pharmaceutical product was used to cover the top of the front axel and cut in the shape of the front assembly. The same foil was used to create the floor in the cockpit. This model is built as a 1.5L GP and is powered by a BWA slim motor, geared 10 pinion by 23 offset crown. A single brass screw is used to secure the body to the chassis. The body fits snugly in place with the rear assembly around the motor preventing any movement in the rear. A black twist tie was used to hold up the bottom of the motor between the two rear exhaust pipes-glued in place to bottom of motor and exhaust pipes. Two polished aluminium extension pipes were glued to the ends of the exhaust pipes that came with the kit. The motor that came with the kit was modified to fit together and two piano wires were inserted into drilled holes and glued into both sides of the motor to hold it in place. The other ends of the piano wire were soldered onto the rear upright assembly. The motor is attached to the chassis, the body floats freely above it but there is virtually no movement as the body is held firmly by the single screw up front and the piano wire at the rear which connects to the rear upright assembly. After applying the decals, I brushed on a coat of future to seal the decals and give the car a glossy finish. One drop of windex was added to my future mix to prevent yellowing down the road. My camera and lighting could be better. This model is much more attractive in the flesh. Initial test lap results indicate that this car will be a contender. I think there is room for improvement. Thanks for looking.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed... The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers!
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- 4 years ago
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Shadow DN1 This build is of the Dart Shadow DN1 - 1973 GP The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and brass. Added rear suspension detail George Follmer is behind the wheel in this model Rear view with suspension. Should have cleaned the tire dust from running test laps.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Indianapolis Brabham Ford I picked up this kit at last years show, it was sitting in a box calling to be built. There's a time and a place for everything..., decided to give it a go. This model ran in the 1960's, so it has been built using the 3L GP spec's. I'll be adding a steering wheel and dashboard. A simple brass piano wire chassis.. will likely add front suspension to this model. A very simple build.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Nano brushes I bought some Flex-I-File brushes at one of the model shows and never really understood how to use them. So they stayed in my drawer. I prefer to glue things like windshields in place with epoxy. But the risk of a glue-string is always there when using toothpicks. Sometimes you can wipe away the string with a cotton swab (Q-Tip). But the best way is to avoid it altogether. I was somewhat challenged with the Gunze Sangyo kits in that the windshield fits perfectly, but with very little over-lap. Any excess glue would easily show up through the windshield. I bought a variety pack of nano brushes to experiment with. It came with 3-sizes. Small (red), medium (yellow) and large (teal) plus a regular style paint brush (blue). The nano brush is a small puff-ball on the end of a plastic stick that holds a small dot of epoxy. It deposits the glue with amazing precision. Then with a small twist, leaves no strings. It also comes with a re-usable handle. I was able to paint several dots of epoxy at the base of the windshield without any glue contamination. The "rag-top" kits have a weak point. The windshield frame is very sensitive to breaking. It's best to get windshield in the car as soon as possible to protect the frame. I breathed a sigh of relief when this windshield was finally in. Here's the link. They are available in many hobby shops. https://www.flex-i-file.com/magic-nano-brushes.php
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in: Workbench Essentials
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- 4 years ago
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Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body. The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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1951 Indy Kurtis Offy Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process on one using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis. For the rear maybe the same with the chassis linked in to the brass tubing but need to think that through. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 14
- 4 years ago
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66 Shelby Mustang I was asked to build a car for a friend. What better way to pass the time. The body is a Monogram GT-350. I have the exact same car in white. It was a fun way to test the accuracy of the original drawing. The request was "Keep it low, but keep it level". Thanks for looking
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Interesting 60’s automotive culture video Hello all, I hope this message finds you and family healthy and safe!! This 50 minute 60's video is pretty cool,narrated by Lloyd Bridges(above water), and though is shown as "Ken Miles Cobra testing", that segment is limited, though at about the 6:30 mark, he is seen testing something with his son, that is near and dear to our hearts. :>) It's more a reflection of Automotive culture, from Kart racing, Road racing, Drags, Land speed pursuit etc, and some cameo appearances; 'Fabian', Ed Roth, Chuck Barris...I found it a nice distraction to 24/7 ALL COvid, all the time... Hope you enjoy, stay well! https://youtu.be/7vUmHEeuIKM
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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59 Impala Sports Coupe This is the same brand of kit as the T-Bird I just finished. It was such a pleasure to build the T-Bird that I could not wait to start this one. This is what comes with the kit. These are the parts being used. The kit comes with 4-roof options. Hardtop, soft-top, open back seat, or tonneau cover. F1nutz has the same car in the same colour but his top down. I'm going with the hardtop. This car was painted the same day as the T-Bird (one week ago). The red plastic just didn't have enough shine. This car won't require clear-coat. Pastel colours usually don't. Time to start putting the car together. It will have a full interior up front and a custom sub-woofer deck in the back to hide the motor. I can't get away with using the tonneau cover over the rear seats with the hardtop.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Testors “One Coat” discontinued Testors "One Coat" spray paints are different from Tamiya in that the metallic is much larger and more of a "metal flake". It's also very hard to get a nice shine from any of the Testors metallic colours without adding clear-coat. So Testors discontinued their "One Coat". The new Testors paint markets under the name Model Master. Everything they make presently is considered 2-stage base and clear-coat. I guess they stopped trying to mix the two together because it wasn't working very well. If you happen to have an old can of Testors "one Coat". Use it wisely (59 Eldorado :good: ). Also... Use it quickly because these old paint cans have a tendancy to erode from the inside of the can and leak. Part of my paint shelf is a nice shade of metallic red. Since the leak, I have decided to store all the Testors cans in an enclosed plastic storage container.
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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And now for something completely different F1 Racing Sim Hey guys I've been gathering up a lot of stuff over the last couple years to put this together but never had time to get it all going properly. Well due to the covid lock down I took a couple days to see if this would actually work and finally after many hours of farting around with various monitor/cable/graphics card configurations and giving up many times in frustration it actually works!! I conveniently happen to have a curved octagonal wall at the end of my basement where I have 3 cheapy projectors hooked up to an older render farm computer I picked up reasonably cheap. 3.2 GHz processor with dual Nvidia Quadro 4800 graphics cards, 8 gigs of ram. Not super powerful by today's standards but still no slouch. I'm running a copy of F1 2011 as that is the most recent sim I've got. I actually bought it in 2012 and never had a system good enough to run it until now. The effect is pretty cool as you can look to the side and see stuff flashing by. Picture isn't as crisp as on led monitors but it is usable. Total viewing area is about 5 ft by about 25 ft or 5760 by 1080 pixels I've also got a small surround audio system with sub I plan to hook up to get the full effect. Anyway thought you might like to see my little side project even though it isn't slot related it is racing after all. Now to build the cockpit and detail the driver ;^)
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 917 on the street This is on my bucket list! It's only mu, mu, money... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jfLntBaNcms
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in: Interesting Reality Bites
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- 0
- 4 years ago
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Salivary Exchange at the Track ! That’s a very strange title! But, a relevant one in our era of viral epidemics. Hello gentlemen racers, and fellow ‘slot addictos’. (I posted this on the weekend; it was listed for a while then disappeared.) Saliva, secreted by the salivary glands inside the mouth, is primarily water but holds a very large collection of cells, molecules and compounds, including white blood cells, epithelial cells, enzymes such as salivary amylase for the initial breakdown of carbohydrates, and many other components. Apparently, one millilitre of saliva contains up to 8 million human cells and 500 million bacterial cells. So what has this to do with scale racing? Well, a popular method of cleaning tires for the track is to put a layer of saliva on one’s thumb and rub it along, through, and into the tire contact surface. It seems to be effective in gaining traction! Of course, a good proportion of the contents of that first person’s saliva is transferred from his tires into the track. Another person’s car later runs on the same lane and his tires pick up the salivary components left by the first person’s tires. When that second person cleans his tires by the same technique, repeatedly putting thumb to mouth, the second person now has a good number of cells and molecules from the first person’s saliva. I know we are all friends, but I don’t think we all want to be that friendly! (No need to further expand on the health consequences generated by this practice.) Now, coming from sponge tire use, I’ve never had occasion to practice this method of improving traction, nor had I any inclination to apply it previously, when I was using urethane tires. For those, I usually carried a small bottle of water and applied a drop to my tires. The first track of Arts that I saw was a few years ago, the MVL track. He had invited me to the Friday track cleaning and prep session before the scheduled Saturday race. (I couldn’t attend the race day because I had a 24’th scale one already scheduled for the same day, and I was doing the tech inspection of all the cars.) To that Friday pre-race session, I brought along a couple of 32’nd scale cars, and my 24’th scale Porsche 962 Lowenbrau, as well as a tire cleaning kit I had constructed. I cleaned each of the rear tires with my kit, before running them on the track. The previous night, I had already removed my sponge-tire rear wheels from the 24’th scale car and replace them with a set of rims with urethane tires, wheels that I had sitting in a pill vile for the previous five years. (The chassis was brass base-plate and phenolic suspension-plate that I had designed.) Art let me run the car when no one else was on the track. I could not believe it; I had never seen such good traction on that car, with any tire - sponge or urethane, on any track surface - treated or untreated! (Those urethane tires had been cleaned only with water.) Photo of my 24’th scale Porsche 962 on MVL track; (body a bit beat up from years of racing, but I bought a spare when they were still available). The tire cleaning kit I built is a fairly simple design, not my invention; I just made a few improvements to one I had seen long ago. It’s made from a small plastic food storage bin in which I cut a slot into the lid and attached brass conducting strips to contact the car brushes. The bin itself stores a sponge wetted with water, a transformer-rectifier wall plug, a 9V dry cell, all the wiring and connectors. I set it up so I could use it on the bench with the wall plug, or use it portable at trackside with the optional dry cell. That allows quick cleaning of the rear tires in between heats, if the ruleset permits. It’s very simple and easy, and works better than spit ! Photo of my cleaning kit as would be used; ( I’ve thrown in a few other cars to compare 32’nd, 24’th and 18’th scales. ) Hope you find this a bit useful. Felix. I used to be one of the sharpest tools in the shed; now I’m just a slot-head !
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in: Local Slot Car Groups
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- 4 years ago
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Model Scriber This is the picture of the scriber that I used for the Auto Union
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- 4 years ago
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Auto Union Type C D’Arts
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- 4 years ago
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Alfa Romeo 8C
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- 4 years ago
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Ferrari 1512
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 914 I just finished my Porsche 914, I made many mistakes trying to use two colors and had a hard time covering them, I need to find more decals to finish the correct livery and help me hide some of the imperfections.
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- 4 years ago
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32 Ford Hot Rods without fenders is unexplored territory for me. No one in the group has a 1932 Ford. The kit has many parts. Only a few will end up being used. This is just the body and front grill from the kit. I can't hide the front part of the chassis. I might as well figure out a way to make it part of the Hod Rod.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 15
- 4 years ago
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The history of Lindberg models If you've ever wondered? Here's the short story of Lindberg models. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVahHjxZ2mM Ken
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 2
- 4 years ago
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Late 70’s Early 80’s Scirocco’s Does anyone know of any 1:32 Scirocco slot cars or model kits? My first car was a 1977 Scirocco and I always wanted to have one to race. My original didn't last too long..... fortunately I did.
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 4 years ago
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1951 INDIANAPOLIS KURTIS OFFY Have become inspired with your Indy Roadsters series and thought I would try my hand at one. Ken your build looks great and will be stunning when finished I am sure. I acquired a couple of Geodies resin models and have started the build process using my oodles of free time. The body weighs 19 grams after carving out the cockpit seat. The model accurately reflects the wheelbase of 100 inches. A motor will fit just about in the front portion of the body in front of the cockpit but it will be tight. The challenge will be to fashion a chassis to align the motor, gearing and guide. Brass tubing will be used for the front axle mount which will not be attached to the chassis just epoxied in place. I am undecided whether to use wire or a brass plate for the chassis so that needs more thought. On the body I am using Cheetah manifold headers, have expanded the carburetor air intakes and will use chrome carbs from another model and will add a chrome fuel cap – holes all drilled. Wheels are from RSSlots and are spare from my Bugatti build. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures and I hope you and your families are all keeping safe.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Tamiya TS vs PS spray cans I painted 2-cars with Tamiya PS paint by mistake. I was at the cottage for a 2-week vacation, and a glass of wine may have been an influence. Most people tell you never use PS on plastic bodies, and never use TS on polycarbonate bodies (clear RC bodies). Now that I already made the mistake. I needed to find out why? Would I wake up one day and find both cars in a pool of plastic goo? Here are the reasons... TS is made for hard plastic and has a gloss finish when applied correctly to the outside of a body. It doesn't adhere very well to polycarbonate and usually flakes off. PS is made for polycarbonate and is meant to be applied to the inside of a clear body. It has very little natural shine on it's own. If you paint a plastic car with PS paint. It will have more of a matt finish. That's the biggest difference for plastic cars. However, there is an added bonus that your slot car will be fuel-proof. Like it really matters. The green Lotus is TS. The blue Lotus is PS paint... Oops. :wacko: And the other mistake...
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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What are you working on? Since were all stuck at home. We should have lots of time to start a few projects. I painted 2-cars between yesterday and today. Now they can cure for a week or two before working on them. This started off as George Follmer's light blue T70 Mk2 #16. The body sat in Super Clean for 24-hours. Then it was lightly water sanded with 2000-grit. The paint is Tamiya "Pearl Blue". It's much darker than the lid on the can. I recently saw a race format for 2-stock Trans Am cars and one TA+. That's a great reason/excuse to make one more stock TA car. I had a plain white TA Mustang that needed colour. The colour is Testors "Lime Ice" green with Tamiya clear-coat. My first try at using clear. The Testors metallic is more like a deep metal-flake. Although it looks the exact same colour as Tamiya "Candy Lime" green. They are totally different with respect to the metallic. Everyone please post what you're working on during your isolation. :good:
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Can you I.D. This kit? I found this at a show a few years ago. It looks like a Monogram static kit from the 60's based on the bottom chassis piece but the interior has Strombecker body mounting posts. Interestingly for a static kit, it also has aluminum Revell like rims and rubber tires on threaded metal axles. Not quite a Lola T70. ie different windshield and body details. Intake was missing so I added a D'Art Hobbies aftermarket intake. It may make it to the track at some point in the future.
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in: Vintage Slot Cars
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- 4 years ago
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D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 11
- 4 years ago
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McLaren M20 I thought I had built cars for every class. Turns out my CanAm Lola Mk2 is from Art's collection. I have yet to build a CanAm car myself. There is a Carrera McLaren M20 collecting dust on a shelf that could use a serious upgrade. The livery is from 1974. Driver: Helmut Kelleners The original plastic chassis did not survive the bandsaw for some strange reason. The old parts go into a junk box. The side body-panels are much lighter now. Each side panel is made up of three parts. One screw on each side keeps the assemblies secure. The body is ready for a new scratch chassis. The first step is to re-read the rules for CanAm in order to choose the right wheels, tires, etc...
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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One of many SCCA entry lists I was browsing the net for diverse cars to build for future 1960-1965 SCCA races. This one list got my attention for some reason. Is that a Plymouth Barracuda in the middle of the list? :yahoo: This is just one of many SCCA entry lists from one of our favorite sites - Racing Sports Cars. The Slot Car show is around the corner. Happy hunting! Ken
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in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
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- 4 years ago
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Painting with Tamiya Synthetic Lacquers – Peter Johnson Came across, may be helpful... https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?article-id=35#.WoW44mdy6Uk [Art - this complete article and the problem chart by P. Johnson are both attached if the link (above) ever breaks - you must be logged in to see attachments.]
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 1
- 4 years ago
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How to accurately measure front/rear weight distribution Do you have two almost identical cars where one out performs the other? Like me, did you also question why? There are usually many reasons. One could be weight distribution. Here's a quick way to accurately measure the weight distribution on almost any car. Ingredients: 1) Two food scales from Walmart ($19.95 each)(We already had one in the kitchen. I just swiped it and added a new one) 2) A glass poster that can be leveled, or flat/level table. 3) Two small pieces of plywood to set the cars on. One with a cut-out for the guide. Here's the glass poster I used as a base for the scales. Interesting Hot Wheels poster. :yahoo: I don't think the Corvette will make it to the goldfish bowl. I had to add popsicle sticks under one plywood plate because the new scale was shorter than the old one. Don't forget to re-tare both scales with the wood plates before your test. Now I can closer examine why Fred Steinbroner's Ford Tudor handles the way it does. These scales don't care where the car sits on the wood plates. The edge of the scale still weighs that part of the car accurately. Even if the car sits over one scale a little more than the other. So long as the car is level, the numbers don't change. No need to perfectly center the car to get an accurate reading of weight distribution. Thanks for looking. Ken
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in: How To – Tune It
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- 4 years ago
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1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32 (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34 Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires. Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit: Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements. It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.) Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Older Ontario licence plates Here's a place that offers older Ontario licence plates by year. https://www.licenseplates.tv/ontario.html Don't forget to resize for 1/32.
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in: Decals
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- 4 years ago
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Removing Decals or Tampo Print – Super Clean Sometimes you just want to remove the livery from a nicely painted body before priming. If you do not, then you compromise the quality and adhesion of the new paint, not to mention that you may see the raised edges of the prior tampo afterwards. To do this you can use 'Super Clean' - Tough Task Cleaner-Degreaser typically found in a 3.78L purple container: You can source Super Clean from Canadian Tire, among other retailers. To get your best bang for the buck you can re-use the same fluid on multiple bodies/parts - I like the dollar store clear plastic containers which come in various sizes with a snap on rubber gasket lid - like the 8"l x 5"w x 3"h (I'm guessing there) Betty Crocker storage containers (with the red lid). Let the pieces sit and soak for days (or even a week if necessary). If anything remains remove it with gentle rubbing (or a non-abrasive brush). Rinse in clean water and dry. You've now removed traces of the old livery and can either prime/re-paint or apply new decals...
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- 4 years ago
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D’Art Matra MS10 Most if not all Matra's were blue. This Matra found a can of Tamiya "camel yellow" and got friendly with it. The engine detail is Tamiya "semi-gloss black". The components at the rear have been painted with Tamiya "gloss aluminum". I still need to detail the interior, driver, engine and transmission parts. The body components snap into place nicely.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Alternative helmet straps and car stripes I have surplus supplies from building RC planes. There are sheets of self-adhesive decal material for RC aircraft that measure 5"inches x 36" inches that come in every colour. Some helmets don't come with a pronounced goggle strap. My hand isn't steady enough for paint. I use a paper shear to cut a thin strip of black decal material. I cut a small piece. Then peel and stick one end to the goggles, wrap around past the other side. Then take a razor to cut the excess. These goggle straps were added after the cars were finished. An oversight made in haste from the builder. But an easy way was found to resolve the problem. It also has a 3D effect over a painted strap. Using another colour to make stripes also works. Just know that if you place the decal in the wrong spot. The adhesive is very agressive in that it will lift the paint under it almost every time. Make sure to set it down right the first time. It was easy to stick the decal on the rear wing and trim the excess after it was in place. The nose stripes were a bit harder because they had to be cut to length prior to installation. Thanks for looking
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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D’Art Shadow DN1 With the Ringwood around the corner. I have race classes to fill. I painted this lovely body last July. Time to get the chassis started. With the tires glued and trued. I can start to map out the chassis. Anyone need chassis plans for a DN1? :mail: The driver and helmet were easy enough to complete. Two-part helmet and visor are a nice touch. Chassis is ready for drilling and cutting. :good:
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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1936 Auto Union Type C Hopefully this will get finished in time for the next race. This car was painted at the last paint workshop. Then stripped and repainted. Second time was the charm. Quite the challenge to fit an aluminum chassis under this body.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Car Blueprints This site has some useful drawings for scratch-builders. https://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/cars/
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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Chaparral 2D If I could have a race car on the street. This would be it. Nothing nicer looking to me than a Chaparral 2D. I was fortunate enough to find an old beat up and badly sun-baked Strombecker body at the last Group25 model show/swap meet. First thing to do is to disassemble the parts. The body is in rough shape. Full of scratches, and lots of faded plastic. The underside shows how badly discoloured the body is. Choosing a colour was easy. Out of all my cars so far, Tamiya Candy Lime Green is still the favorite. I'll let other club members fight over the white cars, and main liveries. I prefer to be different. Now to choose a motor, gear ratio, and wheels/tires. I hope to eventually build 3 of these Chaparrals. Two more are on order with D'Art Hobbies. Those will be way easier to acquire. Thank you kindly Art.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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ZL1 Corvette Stingray The second Anatoly Arutunoff Corvette is well under way. Like the first. This car is built in honour of the man, and his efforts to enter the Targa Florio in 1971. The first Vette has a Scalex motor in line with the 327 that should have entered the race in 1970. This one is more in line with Anatoly's 1971 - 427 Vette in that it has a Fox-10 for open class racing. I hope it will be completed by this week. I learn something with each build. I left nothing on the table with respect to how close the body sits on the chassis on this one. Any lower and the tires touch the inside of the fenders. Perfect! :good: I tried to make this a sidewinder but the motor hits the bearing flange before the gears mesh properly. You can see where I shaved the aluminum past the bearing flange. I even tried to angle it, but there is not enough room to work with in this size aluminum tubing. By the time the gears mesh, the motor is well into the tire area. Back to inline we go. *mumble* :scratch: Ken
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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Drive shafts for front motor drive I found these drive shafts are in stock as of Nov, 27/19 at Electric Dreams. They are $7.99 US funds. https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/drive-shafts-all-manufacturers-c-3_1322/autoart-1473109-drive-shaft-assembly-for-124-citroen-xsara-p-13402.html They probably won't last long before stock is totally gone. Again.
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 4 years ago
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Scalextric 18k slim-line 050 motors These motors are reliable and powerful. They come with a 9-tooth pinion. Available at Electric Dreams for $8.99 US funds (as of Nov 27/19). https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slot-car-parts-c-3/scalextric-parts-by-category-c-3_354/scalextric-motors-drive-shafts-c-3_354_359/scalextric-w10093-motor-ff-for-mgb-p-15265.html
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in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
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- 4 years ago
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Major Update Coming Next Week to Scratch32 Folks, I must apply a manual update to our website but since there is a great chance things may no longer work as they do now (or not at all) I'm leaving it for later this week (November 8th or 9th) when I'll have extra time to wait on hold for technical support if things go off the rails. Sorry about that. BTW, this update should not change anything if it goes according to plan - so you won't notice anything if it is successful. :unsure: Cheers!
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- 4 years ago
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Morris Mini Cooper I found a Morris Mini Cooper in the 1972 Targa Florio. I also found an appropriate car to get this project off to a good start. As you can see by the photo on the right, the car is "Plum Crazy Purple" in colour. That should be a cool addition to the other liveries. The drivers for car #51 were Matteo Sgarlata and Joe Anastasi. Class = S1.6. Sponsored by = STP. I need to open the wheel openings in the fenders to fit the 13"-inch wheels/tires. That will give me an opportunity to make those crazy looking fenders. The motor is a tight fit with the stock interior. I will need to get very creative with this little car if I want to lower it with bigger wheels, and still keep an interior with a driver. Fun looking car. It was a nice surprise to find out it has working head lights and tail lights. Since this build is not about speed. I'm going to try and keep them. Look out green Giliberti cause a purple Mini will be on the hunt! All in good fun of course.
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in: Scratch Built Models
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- 4 years ago
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When flat or gloss black doesn't quite do the job Tamiya makes a semi-gloss that fits nicely when flat-black or gloss-black just won't do. It gives a nice look to grills, exhaust manifolds, tonneau covers, and ZL1 Corvette hoods. Be careful not to lay it on too thick or it will start to become glossy.
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in: How To – Paint It
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- 4 years ago
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Porsche 550 Spyder prototypes – Everything you ever wanted to know In researching the Porsche 550 Spyder for a recent build. I stumbled into a very informative site. It's called type550.com. The home-page is below. Not sure why it doesn't list the name. http://type550.com/ It has serial numbers with the various changes the cars went through such as colour changes, bumper changes, previous owner names, etc... It also lists the races each car entered, and where it placed.
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in: Historical 1:1
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- 4 years ago
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