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    • Cyber Monday is coming!! Hello Racers, stay tuned to Classified section tomorrow....CFO has 'suggested' I cull the herd, and I'm heeding the 'advice'. :>)   Will have new and used/not abused on offer. All used cars are shod with D'Art rear tyres. Slot.it/Racer Sideways/Scaley and perhaps others. Purchase any 2 cars, $5 off total, any 3, $10. Please e-mail if interested [email protected]        

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Lest we forget Great respect to all those whom have served our Country, to keep it strong and free, and especially those that made the ultimate sacrifice. In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks, still bravely singing, fly Scarce heard amid the guns below.   We are the Dead. Short days ago We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, Loved and were loved, and now we lie, In Flanders fields.   Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high. If ye break faith with us who die We shall not sleep, though poppies grow In Flanders fields.

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Honda RA 271 I have always liked the Honda F1 cars and own the excellent DArt Honda RA 273.  I purchased a "Munter" John Warren Honda RA271 kit over a year ago. The inserts provided were too large to fit the RS Slot 15 x 7 wheels so DArt inserts were used instead along with DArt tires, mirrors, and the red Sun off a DArt decal sheet The resin exhausts looked too fragile so I bent some copper wire and reproduced the exhaust system. The driver figure has seat belts molded in however I believe they were not used in the real world of 1964.  Since I was not aiming for total accuracy, I decided to use it along with a car # that was not used during the season. So here it is.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • DArt McLaren M1B This M1B prototype got moved to the front of the build line. The plan is to standardize the M1B for DArt body/KRZ chassis quick-build kits in the near future. Chassis will be designed for slim-line motors to sit flat without the use of any spacers. A new paint-booth is under way. I decided to undo the mess I made in the basement kitchen before it became permanent. Anyone would have a hard time to figure out dozens of cars were painted there now. This prototype has CX0201 tires with 13x7 wheels on the front. The next prototype will have RM0201 tires with 13x5 wheels on the front.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Quick Vic Sadly, Quick Vic passed away a few days ago. Excerpt below, followed by link to full article. Seeing the true extent of his skill, Porsche continued to award Elford bigger opportunities leading up to 1968—perhaps the height of his career. He famously won the Monte Carlo Rally and the 24 Hours of Daytona in the span of one week, going on to win the Targa Florio and the Nurburgring 1000 that spring. In July 1968 Elford drove an obsolete Cooper T86B to a fourth-place finish in his first F1 start on a wet Rouen-Les-Essarts circuit. He won his class twice at Le Mans, and was the first driver to lap the Circuit de la Sarthe at over 150mph (in a Porsche 917 longtail). Though he’s best known for his rally and endurance racing accomplishments behind the wheels of various Porsche racing cars, he also competed in Can-Am, Trans Am, NASCAR, British rallycross, and even the Paris-Dakar rally raid. Elford was awarded the French Order of Merit in 1972 after stopping mid-race to attend to the scene of Jo Bonnier’s fatal crash at Le Mans. Full article https://bringatrailer.com/2022/03/14/remembering-vic-elford-1935-2022/

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • 1938 V16 270MPH Mein Gott im Himmel!!!!! Very interesting read, enjoy!!   https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/16-cylinders-and-270-mph-in-1938-the-auto-union-v-16-was-an-audacious-engineering-feat/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=MED_UN_NA_EML_UN_SaturdayRoadTrip_NoDynamic&hashed_email=170fa62cc0aed16287891b042259a1bc59321344c1285c809b30ed968be18987

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Los Angeles Slot Car Museum Greetings: I was looking at Google News and noticed a story (or paid advertisement?) in Motor Trend about the LASCM.    Thinking about my Revell Lang Cooper, Gar Vic, and Dynamic Chassis slot cars buried in a dump somewhere makes me ask "WHAT WAS I THINKING?" https://www.motortrend.com/features/los-angeles-slot-car-museum-profile

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Liquid Chrome by Molotow Anyone who has tried to replicate a chrome finish knows that this can be a challenge. As noted elsewhere I've had good luck with Krylon's Premium Chrome rattle cans - but thanks to a tip from F1Nutz I now have another great product in my paint shop that is even easier to use - a 4mm Liquid Chrome Pump Marker by Molotow. They have a complete line which includes a refill too... Available from Amazon or at the Group 25 model car show (by Sunward Hobbies). I tested the marker on some knock offs and headers/tail pipes and wow does it leave a nice finish! Impressive! And so easy to use too! This product gets 5 out of 5 thumbs up! :good:  :good:  :good:  :good:  :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Simple Spray Booth It's cold outside so those of us who have cars to build need to paint indoors. Here are some pictures of a simple portable spray booth I put together that helps to keep the air fresher in my home. It was made using a clear polypropylene tote that I got on sale from Canadian Tire. This material is fairly easy to cleanup after painting and it allows in outside light for greater visibility. It uses a box in box design that allows for perfect sealing and easier portability. It uses an equipment rack fan that I bought on Amazon for just over 20 bucks. This fan runs on house voltage, is brushless and sparkproof and moves 110 cfm of air. this type of fan allows you to use any normal hobby paint including nail polish and automotive lacquers. The filter consists of lighting grid cut to fit  and fine aquarium floss built into a dollar store food saver. The fan is bolted through both boxes and the exhaust fitting making for a leakproof seal. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. The exhaust uses 4" semi flexible metal tubing attached to a woodworking exhaust fitting at one end using a 4" hose clamp and a dryer vent quick connect at the other. This is attached to the other half of the  quick connect that I have bolted  to a wooden window insert. As the main box was originally a tote the hose clamp can be loosened and the entire exhaust be put inside ready to be moved. My wife was painting a C4 corvette for Group 25 that Ken kindly gave her so we had a chance to test out the design. It worked flawlessly. It's best to start the fan before painting and to leave it on for a few minutes after you finish to make sure no solvents escape back into your home. Please remember that you should also be using appropriate safety equipment for the type of finish you're spraying. As I tend to use lacquers that means a respirator , gloves and eye protection. The whole project went together for about $75.00 worth of materials. I hope some of you find this useful. Let's get building! Cheers Steve  

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: Anonymous in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Ranchero Gasser ideas I've been looking into Ranchero Gasser examples online. There are differences between them depending on budget. One thing they all have in common is the front end is quite high. But the exhaust systems and gas tanks can be all over the map. Here are some examples. Front mounted tank with budget headers, and straight open carbs. Side-dump exhausts with a very cool air-scoop over a super-charger. Exhaust out the fender wells, no hood over the chrome engine, and nice white walls on the rear wheels. Tank up front and regular headers. This is a BW pic of a slightly newer model Ranchero. The thing that I noted on this gasser is the rear tires are tucked under the wheel wells. The front end is high, the back end is low compared to the cars that have the wheel wells chopped out and totally rounded. I laid this on the table for a quick look at this project. The ruler would simulate the track height. I like the side-dump exhaust myself. Maybe a nice air-scoop on the hood, and little gas tank up front?

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Chassis pics A few customer's chassis pics. A few more. This strange looking chassis was made for a forum administrator on a site in the UK. It fits something called a Morris J-van. Very odd vehicle. But who am I to judge another man's passion?

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To Order

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • New Scratch32 Classifieds Area We now have a FREE classifieds area on Scratch32! Just click on 'Classifieds' in our top menu to see what is for sale (or wanted to buy). Or select 'Add a listing' from the 'Classifieds' drop down menu to post your ad right away! Users with a Scratch32 account can now post ads containing detailed descriptions and pictures of items they wish to sell privately for FREE. These ads can be read by anyone, including those without an account. [So you can post an ad and then link it anywhere else.] It is also easy for every user to manage their ads. All ads expire in 60 days. There are just three limitations: Only model slot car related content is permitted; No junk - only items of quality that you would or have used yourself; No retail sales or ads for inventories of items. Scratch32 will reserve the right to remove any ad(s) that do not comply.

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Painting a Driver’s Head Last week I had the opportunity to paint a 1:10 scale driver's head for a friend. It was for his R/C off road vehicle - but I'm not sure which manufacturer's - I suspect Tamiya but I could very well be wrong... I used Tamiya flat acrylics diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner (for airbrushing) or water (hand painting/washes). After cleaning the plastic parts with SuperClean I airbrushed the head with a stock skin tone then darkened that skin tone slightly with a tiny amount of brown for the faint shadow underneath the cheeks, chin and ears. While the airbrush was still within reach I painted the cap with another stock dark olive colour. All of the airbrushing was done using roughly a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya acrylic paint and thinner to get a milk like consistency that I find perfect for airbrushing. Three light coats gave me enough base coverage. For the hand brushing I always start with the hardest or more detailed parts first - in this case the eyes - since if I screw things up I don't lose as much time if I have to apply the base coat over again. For the eyes I washed in some off white (which I think is still too bright - next time I'll add more colour to the white) then painted the iris blue and then the pupil black. I added a little line of diluted brown both above and below the eye for his eyelashes. Then I added a few very diluted washes of red over the lips - starting with the most diluted coat first over the whole lip area followed by a touch more pigment to the centre of the lips until I was satisfied with the result. Brown hair and eyebrows were next followed by some lightened highlights. Cleanup for everything was with Dollar store nail polish remover (with acetone) and so there was never any unpleasant smell. Soaking the airbrush parts in this solution for a few minutes then scrubbing them clean took all but 15 minutes... I did not use a primer and although I cleaned the plastic the paint can be scratched off with a finger nail if one tries... fortunately this head will not be handled much (if at all) so this was not a concern - but I would use a primer next time... ...hope this helps!

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD.  Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Links to slot car sites I ordered some cars from this site some time ago and waited to see whether the site was a scram or not before passing it on. Wait time is fairly long and I wondered whether the site was legit or not. Pricing was quite good, in Canadian dollars, free shipping. Selection is very limited, and mixed in with a bunch of R/C stuff, but if they have something you are interested in and you don't mind waiting then it might work for you. Cars arrived yesterday, no unpleasant surprises,  so site and pricing is as advertised. :good: https://www.shop4ca.com/radio-controlled-cars

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • HOT ROD – 1932 Plymouth I bought this kit from Ken a couple of months ago, a perfect candidate for a Hot Rod build.  Inspired by Ken's candy apply red, I painted the car gold first, then red to get the candy apple finish. The body sits on an aluminium chassis, that I custom built. This is Lindberg Kit no. 2143 The plastic model motor was taken from another Lindberg kit and glued to the front of the chassis.  SCC steel wheels up front and wider 14" x 8mm rear MRRC wheels.  The rear hubs are also taken from another Lindberg kit and required some sanding to size. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to enlarge the rear wheel wells.  It allowed me to lower the body over the rear wheels. I cut the front side quarter panels to expose the model motor that I painted and glued to the chassis.   The white glue is still drying on the front windshield, once dry it will be less visible. I will be adding a number of additional details and will go over the body and complete a few touch ups. I can say that this is a very nice handling car, a pleasure to drive. Thanks for looking.   P.S. If you are thinking of building a car but keep putting it off because you believe that your building ability falls short of your expectations or standards, I say forge ahead.  Expect to make mistakes-you may scrap a few chassis before you get it right but just keep pushing ahead until you finish building your car.  You will learn from your build and will take that knowledge to your next build which will be easier...  Don't be afraid to begin, just do it and stop procrastinating.  Your experience will yield you a model you can drive at one of the upcoming events, and that will be very rewarding.            

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • The only road-legal Porsche 917 in the world? Count Gregorio Rossi (Martini & Rossi) was once photographed driving his road legal Porsche 917 from Stuttgart to Paris. That finally explains why Fly made this car. I've always thought it was interesting, But never knew it actually existed.   The body has an external ID number making it legal for R32 Classic LeMans. The licence plate counts as a number. The last 2-digits are #37.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • DB’s Garage Thought I would share some of the cars I have been working on, some of which were started about a year ago. At the back, Ford Tudor (Linberg kit), Ken chassis, RSSlot wheels, DArt inserts.  Austin Healy (Aurora kit, 3-peice body), RSSlots wheels, DArt inserts, Penelope Pitlane chassis with added side pans, lady driver who seems to be fixing her hair.  Jaguar D type (Triang-Scalextric), this was rescured from the dead, windscreen, driver and headlights all original, chassis is a plastic monogram, runs incredible well but still needs side exhaust pipes. Porsche 908 (Airfix, Brant Snow car), refreshed and repainted, new DArt windscreen, new exhaust pipes.  Indy 500 Kutis, featured before on separate post but now with DArt rear pre-war tires.  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Arthur

    • Airfix 1933 MG K3 Magnette Hi Gents: I have been interested in this car for its appearance and its history.  I’ve had the Airfix kit in my eBay shopping cart for a while, but have decided that I can’t afford it. I’m posting it here in case someone else may be interested in it. It’s the Airfix 8204, 1933 MG K3 Magnette. It is listed at $35 usd, but it’s shipped through eBay’s ‘Global Shipping Program’. This redirects the package from the seller, to a third party facility in Erlanger, KY (often in the opposite direction to the purchaser’s destination), apparently re-packages it then ships it to the purchaser. They also tack on an import charge ‘to cover duties’. In fact, model kits, diecast models, slotcars are all categorized as toys by the Canada Border Services Agency and do not require duties or excise fees, (though they can trigger GST, usually collected by Canada Post). There have also been many complaints from sellers and buyers regarding poor handling, damaged and missing packages at the Erlanger facility. It’s basically another scheme to allow eBay to skim off more money from the purchaser. I have always refused, on principle, to buy anything shipped through their GSP. It looks like a nice kit for our pre-war series, but I don’t know the quality. I have found some of the Airfix kits made in England to be excellent, whereas some others have been terrible in terms of moulding and casting. (This one is made in Texas by USAirfix, and is the 1980 re-box edition.)  It is listed at $35 usd (C$50), plus $10.50 ship to Canada, but when you go to buy it, there is an additional $10.50 that shows up as ‘import fees’. That brings the total to $56 usd, or C$82 with the added PayPal exchange surcharge. That’s more than twice my limit for a 32’nd scale model kit. However, someone else in the group may have a higher cost threshold, or may have a US shipping address set up through their business, or through a relative. But even with that, it may still be overpriced. (I’ll still buy one if I can find a fair price.)   https://www.ebay.com/itm/USAirfix-Kit-8204-K3-Magnette-MG-1-32-Scale-USAirfix-Plastic-Model-SEALED-NIB/324101968737  

      Started by: Avatar photoFelix in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • Cooper Ford T61 With nothing on the workbench. Time to get started on something new specifically for the 1960-1965 SCCA series. I purchased this body kit from Professor Motor and somehow managed to get most of it completed a little at a time between all the other cars I've built. The last thing to do was to make a chassis. Not what I would call the right order to do things, but it is what it is. Making the chassis first would avoid scratching the paint. But that would take patience. Whatever that is... A BWNC1 was supposed to go in this car at first. Then I ran into some clearance problems with the larger motor. A BWMS050 should hopefully do the job. I know what I'm doing over the holidays... Assembly. I would like to wish the entire group at S32/R32 a very Merry Christmas! Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ferrari 158 This is the Dart kit Ferrari 158. This particular model is of the winning car as driven in the 1964 Italian GP by John Surtees; #2.  JS was also the winner of the F1 Championship in 1964. The chassis is a combination of a bear dog chassis, piano wire and some brass.  Bearings were used in the rear, a square brass tube was used to support the front axel.  Silver foil packaging material from a pharmaceutical product was used to cover the top of the front axel and cut in the shape of the front assembly.  The same foil was used to create the floor in the cockpit. This model is built as a 1.5L GP and is powered by a BWA slim motor, geared 10 pinion by 23 offset crown. A single brass screw is used to secure the body to the chassis.  The body fits snugly in place with the rear assembly around the motor preventing any movement in the rear. A black twist tie was used to hold up the bottom of the motor between the two rear exhaust pipes-glued in place to bottom of motor and exhaust pipes.  Two polished aluminium extension pipes were glued to the ends of the exhaust pipes that came with the kit.  The motor that came with the kit was modified to fit together and two piano wires were inserted into drilled holes and glued into both sides of the motor to hold it in place.  The other ends of the piano wire were soldered onto the rear upright assembly.  The motor is attached to the chassis, the body floats freely above it but there is virtually no movement as the body is held firmly by the single screw up front and the piano wire at the rear which connects to the rear upright assembly. After applying the decals, I brushed on a coat of future to seal the decals and give the car a glossy finish.  One drop of windex was added to my future mix to prevent yellowing down the road. My camera and lighting could be better.  This model is much more attractive in the flesh. Initial test lap results indicate that this car will be a contender.  I think there is room for improvement. Thanks for looking.  

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Interesting 60’s automotive culture video Hello all, I hope this message finds you and family healthy and safe!! This 50 minute 60's video is pretty cool,narrated by Lloyd Bridges(above water), and though is shown as "Ken Miles Cobra testing", that segment is limited, though at about the 6:30 mark, he is seen testing something with his son, that is near and dear to our hearts. :>) It's more a reflection of Automotive culture, from Kart racing, Road racing, Drags, Land speed pursuit etc, and some cameo appearances; 'Fabian', Ed Roth, Chuck Barris...I found it a nice distraction to 24/7 ALL COvid, all the time... Hope you enjoy, stay well! https://youtu.be/7vUmHEeuIKM

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • McLaren M20 I thought I had built cars for every class. Turns out my CanAm Lola Mk2 is from Art's collection. I have yet to build a CanAm car myself. There is a Carrera McLaren M20 collecting dust on a shelf that could use a serious upgrade. The livery is from 1974. Driver: Helmut Kelleners The original plastic chassis did not survive the bandsaw for some strange reason. The old parts go into a junk box. The side body-panels are much lighter now. Each side panel is made up of three parts. One screw on each side keeps the assemblies secure. The body is ready for a new scratch chassis. The first step is to re-read the rules for CanAm in order to choose the right wheels, tires, etc...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • ZL1 Corvette Stingray The second Anatoly Arutunoff Corvette is well under way. Like the first. This car is built in honour of the man, and his efforts to enter the Targa Florio in 1971. The first Vette has a Scalex motor in line with the 327 that should have entered the race in 1970. This one is more in line with Anatoly's 1971 - 427 Vette in that it has a Fox-10 for open class racing. I hope it will be completed by this week. I learn something with each build. I left nothing on the table with respect to how close the body sits on the chassis on this one. Any lower and the tires touch the inside of the fenders. Perfect!  :good: I tried to make this a sidewinder but the motor hits the bearing flange before the gears mesh properly. You can see where I shaved the aluminum past the bearing flange. I even tried to angle it, but there is not enough room to work with in this size aluminum tubing. By the time the gears mesh, the motor is well into the tire area. Back to inline we go. *mumble*  :scratch: Ken    

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Morris Mini Cooper I found a Morris Mini Cooper in the 1972 Targa Florio. I also found an appropriate car to get this project off to a good start. As you can see by the photo on the right, the car is "Plum Crazy Purple" in colour. That should be a cool addition to the other liveries. The drivers for car #51 were Matteo Sgarlata and Joe Anastasi. Class = S1.6. Sponsored by = STP. I need to open the wheel openings in the fenders to fit the 13"-inch wheels/tires. That will give me an opportunity to make those crazy looking fenders. The motor is a tight fit with the stock interior. I will need to get very creative with this little car if I want to lower it with bigger wheels, and still keep an interior with a driver. Fun looking car. It was a nice surprise to find out it has working head lights and tail lights. Since this build is not about speed. I'm going to try and keep them. Look out green Giliberti cause a purple Mini will be on the hunt! All in good fun of course.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1949 Ford Tudor in red With the Carrera Panamericana around the corner. It's time to give Fred and his blue Tudor a bit of a break. Emilio Portez Medina and Armando Rodrigues Morado, both from Mexico, are busy preparing a red 1949 Ford Tudor #119 for the next race (1950). Emilio's red Tudor has a BWNC1. Fred's blue Tudor has a BWMS050.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Wheels: 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) For those of you looking to upgrade your wheels for your 3.0L Grand Prix cars you should consider the following: Front - BW13-300-093-375 - which take a small BWA insert & the RM0202 (or CX0201) tire, depending on the look you wish to achieve; Rear - BW13-380-093-375 - which take a small BWA insert & the CX0202 (or RM0203) tire, depending on the look you wish to achieve; A larger 14mm diameter rear wheel (BW15-380-093-375) may be used in place of the rear wheels mentioned above if you wish to model a car that did have a larger diameter wheel in this period but with the overall tire diameter restriction of 22mm this will mean that you will give up the dampening (and grip) offered by a larger tire to wheel ratio... Cheers! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Belgian GP Spa 1955 Hello lads, for your enjoyment...If you have 30 minutes to kill, watch this. When Spa was 9 miles long, and the GP was 36 laps, a true test of Man and Machine!! Fangio, Moss, Castellotti,Farina, Behra, Frere, Hawthorne providing the thrills. Spectators were sooooo close.   Enjoy! https://bringatrailer.com/2019/07/06/bat-video-inspiration-1955-belgian-gp-at-spa-francorchamps/    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

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    • 2
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • D'Art Lotus 30 My enthusiasm to build this kit was off the charts. The real Lotus 30 was a terrible car with respect to handling. This is an opportunity to hopefully make it better on a much smaller scale. The real car had chassis flex issues. This chassis does not have those same problems. I had to shorten the top of the front bearing supports because the body sits very low. You can see the 180 grit sanding marks on the inside of the chassis so the epoxy will adhere to the aluminum and motor a bit better. The chassis started out as an inline S-can. That was a huge mistake on such a low car. I should have planned it out better. I hope I never make that mistake again. I had to make a big hole in the body to fit the motor. The colour is Tamiya "Candy Lime Green". Upon assembling the body to the chassis I realized this was indeed a huge mistake. My lack of experience is getting the better of me. Time to take it apart and try something else. I was thinking that I may have already ruined the body. :negative:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Arthur

    • SCC Canada Decals #$@!ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Hello lads, had to re-number a car for pending event, had purchased SCC 'White' numerals, first time using the product, OMFG, I'm sure some within the GTA heard some unsavory language last evening... Took 14 of them to successfully transfer 3!!! They kept disintegrating, separating, no matter duration of time in water nor temperature. Curious as to whether anyone else has used (tried to)? If so, any success, what's your secret? :negative: :negative:

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Decals

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    • 4 years ago

      Jimbo

    • 1964 Road America Hello gents, thought you might enjoy some classic(read grainy) footage from Elkhart Lake Wisconsin, otherwise known as Road America. 500 mile test, some of the BEST racers, Hall/Penske/Shelby/Miles, and their might machines; Chaparral (dis you know it had an Automatic tranny?) 250LM, Cobra's, Genie, Lola, Vettes, smorgasbord of POWER 3 part video, link below. Great hot lap/tour on 1st segment with Penske and his lightweight Vette and pretty cool racing. https://bringatrailer.com/2019/05/18/video-inspiration-1964-road-america-500-parts-2-3/ Enjoy!    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

    • 1
    • 1
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red  and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Airfix MGB Sports model I bought this kit at the Torcan model show. The kit dates back to 1967. Nice to find an old gem like this. Worth doing the build. I hope to have it finished by the weekend and race it at the Dale in just under 2-weeks. SP-slow class. Ken  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Vanski – Death Row – May, 2019 Execution – Sportscars Only Gents, As a heads up and given that the Vanski motor has been unavailable for many, many years now - we will be the first group in Southern Ontario to eliminate these motors from our Scratch32 and R32 1950's & 1.5L Grand Prix classes. This will have no effect on sportscars where they will continue to be permissible. We'll focus on the definition of 'low power motors' to effect this change... Over the winter you might want to consider moving some of your inventory to other groups - where they will be sought after... Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • New Classifieds Plug In Gents, I've settled on an alternate classifieds plug in which works fine - Not my first choice but it is still good - and FREE! Many more things to configure... I'll have a few ads posted tonight to verify that everything works as it should for any registered user... :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

    • 2
    • 2
    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • Race Transporter Reference Drawings I wasn't sure where to post this so please feel free to move this thread. I was recently pointed to a thread on Slotforum that contains scale plans by Mike Sells for many vintage race transporters. Anyone feeling ambitious and need a winter project? https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182130&hl=%2Btransporter+%2Bplan Cheers Bill  

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • Your Guide and Tongue – Limiting Over-Rotation Fabricating the tongue that will hold your guide of choice should follow several basic principles, one of which is that travel or rotation should be limited either by the just the shape of the leading edges of your tongue or by adding stops. If you allow excessive rotation then you risk allowing your model to rotate well beyond the useful range of performance and either wedging it at a 90 degree angle which becomes a hazard to others or worse yet allowing it to travel in the reverse direction. Be sure to limit the rotation of your guide to just 45 degrees each way by shaping your tongue into a triangle or soldering stops in place depending on the style of guide. If your car is sliding more than 25 degrees from the direction of travel then it is already out of control and if it rotates well beyond that then a properly set up guide stop will at least force the guide (and your model) out of the slot, removing power and allowing it to slide to the gutter and usually out of harms way. In a recent race one car which allowed the guide to over rotate by at least 180 degrees repeatedly wedged itself sideways, blocking the track and creating a hazard for others at numerous locations around the track. Limiting the rotation of your guide will not only increase the life of your model but also the lives of the models of those who race with you.

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Build It

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    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking.   Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E   Thanks to Art for his great photos!    

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoJoe

    • Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Chaparral 2A Not really scratch built but I will ask for forgiveness later :unsure: The Strombecker body I have had for years and always meant to paint plus I had a spare strombecker brass chassis.  I opted to use a 1/32 set up which has worked out well.  Motor is a Plafit Fox 11 (25k). Gears are slot-it. Wheels and inserts are BWA - though they are not quite right but they were in my spare box.  Tires are DArts.  Windscreen is cracked but a Future treatment has improved it while I look for another one (I know, good luck). Anyway, thought I would share.

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Modified Slot Car Models

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ferrari 612 CANAM Ferrari 612 CANAM A few shots of the first completed DArt Ferrari 612 CANAM model. This model uses only the stock parts included with the DArt body kit - mirror, rollbar, driver's head and inkjet decals. Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer was used over Tamiya Fine Primer. The paint was polished but there is no clear coat on this one. Wax was the preferred final finish. The shell is mounted to the chassis using two centrally located posts, one immediately behind the front axle, the other infront of the motor. DArt urethane washers placed between the posts and the chassis dampen movement of the shell. The chassis was one of my first scratch built sidewinder configurations. This is a simple chassis - nothing fancy - but it is perfectly balanced. As you can see it is not polished or clear coated and so shows its age (although well I think). The centre brass section was added when the chassis was tuned for racing. If memory serves well the motor is a Fox 10 soldered directly to the chassis with 11 x 36T Slot.It pinion and spur gear. Aftermarket hard drill blank axles through brass tube at the front and oilite bushings at the rear attach BWA 15" .380 sized alloy wheels with DArt small inserts (included with the kit) and DArt urethane tires (SI0201) front and back. A vintage nylon guide was chosen for this project. This chassis/shell combination proves that you need not do anything fancy to make a rocket. The front wheels could yet be converted to independent spinners to further enhance cornering speeds - but why bother when it is at the sharp end already? Setting sail to another country hopefully this model will offer as much enjoyment for its new host/collector as it did for me. :cry:

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • The Beatles & Scalextric Courtesy of Austin - a fellow hobbyist: Are there any Beatles fans out there? Must be one or two; gotta be! What do the Beatles have to do with slot racing, anyway? Well, I was surprised to come across this photo (and others), while searching a completely different topic. It seems that not only Elvis, but the Beatles were also addicted to slot racing. According to his biographer, John's attic was entirely devoted to his model racing track. A Scalextric set accompanied the Beatles on their 1964 British tour and was always set up backstage. They also set it up in some of their hotels during other tours. Looks like there are more addicts out there than we knew about!

      Started by: Arthur in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 4
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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      Arthur

    • Cobra vs. Ferrari A BBC documentary with some some good historical footage of the era. A good way to spend the last few hours of your year. Happy New Year all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vojnf8shDHY&feature=youtu.be

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
    • 1
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • 60-70s Sponsors and Signage Hi lads, if you're interested, I have a file(too large to upload here) that contains many 'signs' and or logo's you could use to decorate your track, or convert to decals for cars. Let me know and I can e-mail to you. Simply click/grab the image, and you can resize.   :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Decals

    • 2
    • 2
    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Sebring 1957 Just to see how this works, so we may as well have the Wayback go way back. These images are from my dad's collection taken almost 60 years ago, so please keep them within the group. Due to the 100k suggested limit the images have become a bit grainy. Should anyone be interested contact me for larger file sizes. As time goes by I'll try to figure how to add a little info to each image.

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Interesting VW and site Greetings, stumbled upon this site whilst looking for information on the resin body/kit I picked up at thee SLotcar show, a 'Daimler 250' (thanks for ID'ing MiA!) the wee beast had a V8 Hemi!...ANyway, look at this VW, don't believe I've ever seen 1, and what a beaut. You could make it yours too...$$$ Lots of other 1:1 Candy. :good:   https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-puma-gt-1600/    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Historical 1:1

    • 2
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    • 6 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

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