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    • Alfa Romeo at the 1954 Carrera Panamericana Alfa Romeo at the 1954 Carrera Panamericana - by MiA - As Art was kind enough to set up a blog for my meanderings I felt I should give it a go. What to write about, how long should it be? Perhaps I could use a blog as an excuse to dig a little more into subjects I was interested in, and if anyone else learned a bit, then so much the better. Of course the first one would have to be a subject near and dear to my heart (and so as if you didn’t know) Alfa Romeos! But what Alfa story? As the company with the oldest racing history there are so many stories. So, where to start?? Lets just choose a convenient and timely one, the upcoming Carrera Panamericana proxy race. Over the five years that the race was held there were many Alfas to write about, both factory and private entries.  For a first go lets just use the alternate photo posted for the upcoming proxy race. Easy, a bit obscure, quite pedestrian and definitely all Alfa!! I’m sure Art put it in for my benefit!! [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="911"] Monumento de la Revolition[/caption] A little bit of background on the Carrera Panamericana first. In 1950, Mexico became the first Latin-American country to complete its part of the Pan-American Highway. To celebrate this achievement, the national government decided to organize a five-day race along the new road. It consisted of a total of 9 stages and ran from Ciudad Juárez on the US border to the Guatemalan border. The original version of the Carrera Panamericana was held from 1950 to 1954 and during its short existence it developed a reputation for being one of the most dangerous races in the world. Due to the start line being close to the US, most of the cars and drivers for the first 1950 race came from the US. The first winners were an American team of Hershel McGriff and Ray Elliott in an Oldsmobile 88. From the second edition onwards, the route was switched, going from the southern to the northern border. Over the ensuing years competition grew and attracted more teams from abroad. Along with most American manufacturers and many ‘specials’, Ferrari, Lancia, Porsche, Borgward, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, OSCA, Jaguar, Mercedes, Talbot Lago, Gordini, VW and Pegaso all sent or supported teams headlined with seasoned road, track and rally drivers. Of particular interest here is the 1954 race and the picture used for the alternate in the upcoming proxy races announcement. (Hopefully Alfas from other years will follow in later posts). 1954 was the last of the original races and the picture was taken in front of the Monumento de la Revolition in Mexico City, probably sometime after the third day of racing or just before the start of the fourth day. The Monumento de la Revolition commemorates the independence of Mexico from Spain. It is located in Plaza de la República, near to the heart of major thoroughfares in downtown Mexico City. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="511"] Monumento de la Revolition[/caption] The structure was initially intended to be at the centre of the Federal Legislature and the first stone was laid in 1910 during the centennial celebrations of Independence. The project was not finished due to the Mexican Revolutionary War and after several regime changes in 1913 it was cancelled and abandoned. It’s steel inner structure stood rusting for more than twenty years. Later it was proposed to convert the abandoned structure into a monument to the heroes of the Mexican Revolution. After this was approved, the structure began its makeover. Four stone sculpture groups were designed and built over the existing cupola structure. The structure also functions as a mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution of 1910. It was eventually completed around 1938. For the 1954 running there were thirteen Alfas entered. Eleven participated and 2 were listed as Did Not Arrive. No. Drivers Entrant Make Type Model Engine Gr. 251 Sanesi / Cagna Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 252 Velazquez / Ruiz Atoyac Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 254 Mancini / Mijares Anaconda Nacional Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 255 Carini / Sambrotta Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 256 Mantovani / Chiappa Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 257 Solana / Leguizamo Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 258 Pedro J. Llano Pedro J. Llano Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 260 Guillermo G. Airaldi Guillermo Airaldi Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 265 Cerezo / Palacios David Cerezo Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 267 Della Favera / Campigotto Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 268 Bonini / Zanavoni Alfa Romeo Finmeccanica Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 And entered but did not arrive: 264 Pedro J. Llano Pedro J. Llano Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 266 Enrique Fluchaire Enrique Fluchaire Alfa Romeo 1900 TI Alfa Romeo TE1.9 Clearly shown in the picture are four Alfa Romeo 1900 Ti cars. Quite possibly these are four of the five cars entered by Finmeccanica. The 5th Finmeccanica entered car is possibly the car to the right in the photograph. Like many of the early automobile manufacturers Alfa Romeo had gone through turbulent times since it’s inception. Ugo Gobbato the head of Alfa Romeo in 1945 had been shot and killed by an unknown gunman as he cycled to work. Thus after WW2 Alfa thus found itself without a leader and with most of its factories destroyed by the war. A new chairman, Pasquale Gallo, was appointed to demilitarize Alfa Romeo, and responsibility for design was handed to the engineer Orazio Satta Puliga. He made significant contributions towards re-launching Alfa Romeo into a new era. After introducing several upscale models based on pre war models, in 1950 he introduced the Alfa Romeo 1900, a family car that would be capable of winning races. Modern and practical, Puliga considered the 1900 to be the ultimate choice for the middle class. It offered great performance and a heritage of brilliant sporting achievements at a competitive price. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="781"] Alfa Romeo 1900 Sedan (Berlina)[/caption] The Alfa Romeo 1900 was produced from 1950 to 1959. It was an important development for Alfa, being it’s first car built entirely on a production line and it’s first production car without a separate chassis. The Engine was a 1.9 L DOHC Inline 4, developing 90 bhp, which was later enlarged to 2.0L It was produced in several variants, a 4-door saloon (Berlina), a 2-door coupé (Sprint) and a 2-door convertible. It was the first Alfa Romeo offered with left-hand drive. After introduction it was later offered as a 1900C(Short) and then as a 1900TI with a more powerful motor producing 100bhp. Later came Super and Super Ti versions. A total of 21,304 were built during the production run, including 17,390 of the saloons. The chassis was designed specifically to allow it to be re-bodied and several coachbuilders developed some beautiful variants, including a 4-wheel drive version (Matta) based on the 1900. Finmeccanica, the entrant of the cars we are interested in was established in 1948 as part of the efforts by Italy's government-controlled industrial holding company IRI (Istituto per la Ricostruzione Industriale) to restructure Italy’s devastated industrial and engineering sector after the war. IRI had itself taken over effective control of Alfa around 1928 when Nicola Romeo left the company. After it’s establishment Finmeccanica effectively became Alfa Romeo’s parent company until it sold Alfa to the Fiat Group in 1986. The 1954 race was run from south to north over 8 stages and 3,070 kilometres (1,910 mi). 150 cars started the race, and 85 finished all 8 stages. The European stock car class was won by Consalvo Sanesi and Giuseppe Cagna in Alfa Romeo #251 finishing 15th overall. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="438"] 1900 Motor[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="414"] Finned Aluminium Brake Drum[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="464"] Finishing Line[/caption] Other Alfa finishers were car # 256 driven by Mantovani / Chiappa finishing 18th overall, car # 267 driven by Della Favera / Campigotto finishing 19th overall, car # 255 driven by Carini / Sambrotta finishing 20th overall, car # 252 driven by Velazquez / Ruiz finishing 30th overall. Car # 268 driven by Bonini / Zanavoni was a DNF due to an accident. All considered, an excellent showing for Alfa. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="435"] Consalvo Sanesi and Giuseppe Cagna[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="370"] Carini/Sambrota in car #255[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="418"] The Velazquez / Ruiz car[/caption] [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="412"] The Velazquez / Ruiz car[/caption] There are several good smaller scale models of most of the cars that participated in the 1954 race, but I haven’t found a 1/32 scale kit that could be used as the basis for an S32 car …yet. [foogallery id="33634"]

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Arthur

    • February 24, 2016 – Spa-Lyons Hot Rod (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1. Art - 61 Laps (17.556 ext.) 2. Drew - 59 (8.805) 3. Jim - 57 (19.184) Substitute Race 1. John - 60 Laps (15.429 ext.) 2. Frank - 54 (9.873) 3. MiA - 48 (13.705) Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1. Art - 70 Laps (9.161 ext.) 2. Drew - 69 (12.897) 3. Jim - 66 (17.425) 4. John - 65 (3.348) 5. Frank - 65 (18.430) 6. MiA - 62 (10.954) 3.0L Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1. Art - 67 Laps (7.713 ext.) 2. Drew - 67 (14.835) 3. John - 66 (12.609) 4. Frank - 61 (9.999) 5. Jim - 61 (15.800) 6. MiA - 59 (10.361) LeMans Prototype/GT (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1. John - 75 Laps (13.700 ext.) 2. Drew - 73 (6.893) 3. Jim - 70 (18.164) 4. Frank - 69 (6.103) 5. Art - 69 (16.252) 6. MiA - 60 (12.393) Cheers to those who could make it out to race and thank you to Drew for hosting a funtastic evening of racing at Spa! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • January 20, 2016 – Spa-Lyons NASCAR (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Art - 69 Laps (14.188 ext.) 2. Drew - 69 (19.038) 3. John B. - 65 (7.791) 4. Mike V. - 62 (12.548) 5. Frank - 61 (11.292) 6. Bill - 61 (23.671) 7. MiA - 56 (10.410) Sportscar (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Drew - 63 Laps (15.345 ext.) 2. Art - 61 (8.293) 3. John B. - 61 (15.854) 4. Mike V. - 59 (9.537) 5. Bill - 59 (18.500) 6. Frank - 56 (11.890) 7. MiA - 50 (13.346) CAN AM (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Drew - 75 Laps (10.615 ext.) 2. Art - 74 (6.699) 3. John B. - 74 (14.431) 4. Mike V. - 72 (13.935) 5. Bill - 69 (13.847) 6. Frank - 68 (12.991) 7. MiA - 65 (17.554) 1970's Grand Prix (3 min. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Race Results 1. Bill - 70 Laps (16.554 ext.) 2. Art - 70 (16.739) 3. Drew - 69 (4.734) 4. Mike V. - 68 (9.309) 5. John B. - 67 (10.459) 6. Frank - 65 (16.598) 7. MiA - 55 (14.355) Cheers! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • February 27, 2016 – Rockenheim NASCAR (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) NASCAR Results 1. Art - 69 Laps (17.081 ext.) 2. Kevin - 68 (13.128) 3. Frank - 63 (7.747) 4. Devan - 63 (19.890) F1S (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) F1S Results 1. Art - 72 Laps (6.787 ext.) 2. Kevin - 72 (8.879) 3. Devan - 67 (10.308) 4. Frank - 66 (6.603) CanAm (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) CanAm Results 1. Kevin - 104 Laps (18.321 ext.) 2. Art - 101 (12.955) 3. Devan - 95 (6.934) 4. Frank - 95 (18.323) Indy Car IROC (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Indy Car Results 1. Kevin - 95 Laps (15.473 ext.) 2. Art - 95 (20.168) 3. Frank - 93 (13.248) 4. Devan - 90 (14.106) Cheers to Kevin for hosting a fabulous raceday and to everyone who was able to make it up to The Rock to race today! Some very close and exciting racing...

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Anonymous

    • April 15/16, 2016 – Iron-Finger 6 Hour Endurance Challenge – The Ring Iron-Finger 6 Hour** Endurance Challenge Result Primary Racer: Art Distance: 2,715 Laps (Yellow) = 59,789.31meters (59.79km) Fastest Lap: 6.169 seconds* *on the last lap Casual Racer: Frank Distance: 2,065 Laps (Red) = 45,467.17meters (45.47km) Fastest Lap: 6.269 seconds **real time using a Rogers mobile device dictated the exact length of the challenge and not the elapsed time (seconds) displayed on the practice screen (6 hours should equal 21,600 seconds) since prior testing revealed that the elapsed time displayed on the practice screen is not accurate enough over such a long session. Cheers to Frank for both participating and racing in this event!  :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • May 11, 2016 – The River Sportscar (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Jim - 67 Laps (12.974 ext.) 2. Art - 64 (12.586) 3. John - 63 (9.499) 4. Frank - 62 (19.158) 5. Bill - 60 (15.058) Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Trans Am Results 1. Jim - 71 Laps (15.102 ext.) 2. John - 71 (19.420) 3. Art - 69 (9.038) 4. Frank - 67 (12.075) 5. Bill - 63 (15.119) Classic LeMans (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) Classic LeMans Results 1. John - 75 Laps (6.068 ext.) 2. Jim - 75 (17.798) 3. Art - 71 (10.594) 4. Frank - 69 (12.846) 5. Bill - 69 (17.819) Group 5 (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group 5 Results 1. Art - 103 Laps (2.461 ext.) 2. Jim - 103 (14.774) 3. John - 102 (5.596) 4. Frank - 97 (7.789) 5. Bill - 97 (10.641) Cheers to Jim for hosting a fabulous track debut for the Riverhampton Grand Prix Raceway and to everyone who participated! Long live the gyro! - Art

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • June 8, 2016 – The Ring Sportscars (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Sportscar Results 1. Art - 98 Laps (15.033 ext.) 2. DwM - 95 (9.645) 3. JoB - 91 (11.240) 4. DoS - 89 (14.714) 5. ToN - 87 (9.485) 1960's Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960's Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 78 Laps (16.548 ext.) 2. DwM - 75 (2.654) 3. JoB - 74 (17.088) 4. ToN - 69 (15.682) 5. DoS - 66 (7.362) Group C/IMSA (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Group C/IMSA Results 1. JoB - 116 Laps (10.728 ext.) 2. DwM - 113 (9.919) 3. Art - 112 (7.631) 4. DoS - 102 (12.737) 5. ToN - 102 (13.669) CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) CAN AM Results 1. JoB - 90 Laps (6.047 ext.) 2. Art - 89 (5.414) 3. DwM - 88 (10.482) 4. DoS - 78 (15.981) 5. ToN - 77 (15.669) Some great battles on down through the field... Cheers to those who were able to make it out including Johnny, Drew and Doug and especially to Tony who joined us from downtown (and with his nicely performing modified controllers too!) - Carry On! :yahoo: Art

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Ringwood XIV 1950s Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1950s Grand Prix Results 1. KKr - 79 Laps (9.099 ext.) 2. Art - 79 (12.764) 3. FCe - 74 (2.882) 4. BiG - 71 (4.962) 5. MiA - 67 (13.082) 1960s Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1960s Grand Prix Results 1. KKr - 79 Laps (11.445 ext.) 2. Art - 78 (6.318) 3. FCe - 76 (8.748) 4. BiG - 75 (10.774) 5. MiA - 66 (9.825) 3.0L Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 3.0L Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 87 Laps (4.019 ext.) 2. KKr - 85 (9.892) 3. BiG - 83 (9.330) 4. FCe - 79 (6.384) 5. MiA - 75 (7.408) 1970s Grand Prix (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) 1970s Grand Prix Results 1. Art - 90 Laps (9.488 ext.) 2. KKr - 89 (8.042) 3. BiG - 84 (5.329) 4. FCe - 79 (10.059) 5. MiA - 73 (10.565) Several epic battles over the course of the evening and an awesome field of cars that not just look pretty but go like stink! Cheers to Michael, Frank, Bill and Kevin for such a fantastic evening of racing - and especially a 1970's Grand Prix grid that is simply unmatched elsewhere - easily a favourite venue for so many of us! Can't wait for Ringwood XV... Even more pictures on www.darthobbies.com/events - Art :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Anonymous

    • June 25, 2016 – The Rock Trans Am (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Trans Am Results 1. Kevin - 90 Laps (12.308 ext.) 2. Art - 89 (9.391) 3. Frank - 85 (17.133) 4. Michael - 82 (10.663) 5. Devan - 79 (20.349) Classic LeMans (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) Classic LeMans Results 1. Kevin - 92 Laps (5.775 ext.) 2. Art - 92 (9.855) 3. Devan - 87 (15.925) 4. Frank - 85 (12.931) 5. Michael - 84 (17.850) 1970's Grand Prix (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) 1970's Grand Prix Results 1. Kevin - 100 Laps (4.493 ext.) 2. Art - 99 (6.961) 3. Frank - 92 (23.091) 4. Devan - 92 (23.544) 5. Michael - 89 (10.175) LeMans Prototype (240 sec. x 3 x 1 = 12 min.) LeMans Prototype Results 1. Kevin - 105 Laps (13.277 ext.) 2. Devan - 99 (11.285) 3. Frank - 99 (16.107) 4. Michael - 97 (16.587) 5. Art - DNF (car change) A funtastic day of racing again at The Rock... Cheers to Kevin for hosting and to everyone who participated! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Avatar photoMiA

    • Ringwood XVII Scratch32 will kick off the 2017 Winter Scratch32 racing schedule with Ringwood XVII. Scratch32 Rules will apply. Visit the Rules page to download the current Scratch32 Rules. To download your copy of the Scratch32 2017 Winter racing calendar visit the Calendar page.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Upcoming ’70/’71 Targa Florio Not sure where to put this as there does not seem to be an 'Upcoming Events' Forum, so 'here' it is. Looks like another great event coming up soon, the '70/'71 Targa Florio!! Authentic livery specific!! An era when some of my favourite cars (Alfa's and Porsche's, big surprise there) and drivers (Vic Elford, Jo Siffert, Brian Redman, Masten Gregory, Pedro Rodriguez, Jo Bonnier, Mike Parkes, ..... ) were dominating. (Not showing my age am I??) To that end, so far I've one of each, the #20 Porsche 908/3 driven by Elford/Herrmann (what a great livery for that car) and the #2 Alfa T33/3 driven by Adamich/Lennep to a 2nd place in 1971. (Red, but what else for a factory Alfa) The Porsche is a basically stock Fly with gear and tires, very nice to drive but a bit limited by it's motor! The Alfa is a great car -GLH- and if Mr. 2.4 doesn't have an appropriate car perhaps he will race it for me!!?? See you all there.

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • 2016 2.4h @ The Ring Looking forward to next weeks event. In an attempt to look like a team, two Porsche's, Shell and F.A.T. Turbo sponsorship. Slightly different shades of red?? I think the Fortuna car is an earlier model. Curious to see how it runs.:yahoo: MiA

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Anonymous

    • October 12, 2016 – Spa Lyons Euro Trucks “You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel,” and “Nice Hubs!” were heard all around, but the 401 in winter sees fewer trucks loose wheels. Also, a little rubbing is racing as truck after truck made light contact with the new wall protecting the magnificent new start line bridge. In the end it wasn’t about the hubs, but the jugs, as the St. Pauli Girl rig of Johnny Slots was the class of the field and the only truck to get into the 8.5’s. RESULTS: Laps John 63, Art 61, Drew 60, Jim O 57, Jim M 55, MiA 007 1960's Grand Prix Cooper Confusion. With a pair of identical #10 Cooper’s in the field, and both drivers swearing these are their only cars for the class, the rest of the competitors were confused as to which car they were actually racing! In the end it was the host who had the most, speed that is, as Drew held off the flying Ferrari to win. A fine podium finish for Jim M. too. RESULTS: Laps (ext. sec.) Drew 65, Art 64, Jim M 63, John 62 (12.478), Jim O 62 (21.927), MiA 57 3.0L Grand Prix Brass or fight for 2nd. So it was a battle for 2nd among the plastic cars as the maestro put on a performance to win by 4 laps. Fans were seen leaving early to get home to watch the Leafs game as word quickly spread about the amazing Auston Matthews and his 4-goal debut in Ottawa. Unlike the Matthews whose impressive performance was put to waste as the Leafs lost, welcome to Toronto Auston, There's always next year!! Art’s performance was just as impressive but he did get the win. The yellow McLaren was best of the rest while 3rd through 6th were each a lap apart. Results: Laps Art 72, John 68. Jim M 65, Drew 64, MiA 63, Jim O 62 3.0L Le Mans With the stands now only half full, it was time for the fury of 3.0L Le Mans, where, being Le Mans, the might of the Matras was too tough to tame. And just like in the other 3 litre class, there was no competition for the lead. But the battle for 2nd was mighty with the host claiming the 2nd spot as one off meant a lost lap for the little Alfa. The remaining 3 positions were also hotly contested with Jim M. squeaking into 4th by just over a second ahead of MiA while Jim O. was only a lap back. It was great to get back on track after many moons with no racing at Spa-Lyons. Thanks to the host, and his Za-maker. Next up we get Jim O’s track back into the rotation after his summer sailing hiatus. Results: Laps (ext.) Art 78, Drew 75, John 74, Jim M. 67 (9.154), MiA 67 (10.905), Jim O 66

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: R32

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      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • November 7, 2016 – The Ring 1950's Grand Prix (180 seconds x 3 x 1 = 9 minutes) 50GP Results 1. KKr - 75.300 Laps 2. Art - 72.830 3. JmO - 69.560 4. DoS - 67.400 1960's Grand Prix (180 seconds x 3 x 1 = 9 minutes) 60GP Results 1. KKr - 78 Laps (9.397 ext.) 2. Art - 77 (10.461) 3. JmO - 73 (11.013) 4. DoS - 64 (7.128) 3.0L Grand Prix (180 seconds x 3 x 1 = 9 minutes) 3LGP Results 1. KKr - 84 Laps (10.927 ext.) 2. Art - 83 (10.527) 3. JmO - 79 (12.488) 4. DoS - 76 (7.051) 1970's Grand Prix (30 seconds x 3 x 3 = 4.5 minutes) 70GP Results: 1. JmO - 45 Laps (40.233 ext.) 2. Art - 43 (31.548) 3. KKr - 40 (45.065) Cheers to KKr and to Jmo for their victories and to Dougie who was able to participate!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • 2017 International Race of Champions – The Ring – December 20, 2017 2017 IROC  Qualifying: Everyone chose to qualify on the middle lane. ArT; BiG; DwM; JMs; MiA; DaB; JmO. Race Results: 1st Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) JMs – 81 Laps; ArT – 80; BiG – 80; DwM – 79; JmO – 78; MiA – 76; DaB – 75. 2nd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 162; BiG - 162; JMs - 160; DwM - 158; JmO - 156; MiA – 153; DaB - 148. 3rd Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 244; BiG - 243; JMs - 240; DwM - 238; JmO – 234; MiA – 230; DaB - 224. 4th Heat (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) ArT - 326; BiG - 324; JMs - 321; DwM – 318; JmO – 312; MiA – 307; DaB - 300. ADJUSTED FINAL RESULTS (180 sec. x 3 x 4 = 36 min.) [crash = -1 lap] ArT – 325 Laps [-1 lap]; BiG – 324;* JMs – 320 [-1 lap]; DwM – 317 [-1 lap]; JmO – 312;** MiA – 304 [-3 laps]; DaB – 293 [-6 laps]. * Fewest Crashes ** Second Fewest Crashes Christmas came early for everyone this night. Prizes were awarded as follows: BiG chose this DArt body kit: But then opted to trade in the Ferrari 312P body kit for the mystery prize hanging from the Christmas tree elsewhere: It was a lovely Fly Juncadella Chevron B21! Well done BiG! Our next place finisher JMs chose this DArt body kit: Next, DwM made his selection: Followed by JmO: Up next MiA chose his wrapped door prize - he unwrapped a Lindberg model kit and five BWMS050 motors: DaB unwrapped the second door prize: Time for the two most prestigious awards on the night - most flawless on the evening. BiG and JmO both collected top honours with no offs each - tie going to the higher finisher meant Bill chose his second DArt body kit and received an 'unobtainium' Vanski unrated motor:  JmO picked his second DArt body kit and received his unrated Vanski motor: Excellent racing by all! This will close out the Scratch32/R32 fall racing season. Our next scratch32 event will be the Targa III here at the Ring while the next R32 race will at the lovely Spa-Lyons - both in early January! Info on both is right on our website! A wonderful end to 2017... Merry Christmas to everyone and please have a very Happy New Year! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • R32 IV – The Ring – December 6, 2017 R32 IV December 6, 2017 - The Ring [foogallery id="5093"] FINAL RESULTS Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #45 - ArT – 78 Laps (10.836 ext.); #23 – ArT – 78 (11.225); #6 – JoB – 76 (9.502); #6 – FCe – 75 (6.955); #35 – DwM – 75 (8.508); #48 – MiA – 75 (16.166); #2 – JoB – 75 (17.200); #76 – FCe – 72 (6.182); #33 - JmO – 72 (10.680); #77 – JmO – 71 (13.480); #2 – DwM – DNF. Group C/IMSA (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #14 – JoB – 88 Laps (8.330 ext.); #14 – DwM – 87 (2.472); #8 – ArT – 87 (11.725); #17 – MiA – 84 (15.394); #16 – FCe – 81 (15.471); #45 – JmO – 79 (14.799). LeMans P/GT (LMP/GT) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #25 – ArT – 92 Laps (11.680 ext.); #34 – JoB – 91 (10.688); #8 – DwM – 90 (8.999); #2 – MiA – 82 (2.847); #? - JmO – 79 (8.689). CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #65 – ArT – 90 Laps (10.036 ext.); #2 – DwM – 89 (14.796); #30 – JmO – 87 (8.064); #48 – JoB – 87 (9.775)*; #2 - MiA – 83 (8.763). *Consolation for JoB in the final heat of the evening was that his Slot.It McLaren #48 did set a new fastest lap for the green lane under the R32 CAN AM class - 5.703...

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Avatar photoMiA

    • Monday, July 17, 2017 (6:30 – 10:00pm) Building a Scratch Sidewinder Chassis By request this is a session on building/soldering a scratch built sidewinder chassis out of brass/piano wire for a class/body yet to be determined. Although I am far from an expert on building a scratch built sidewinder chassis myself I will host this opportunity for those that are interested to watch just how I tackle this project in real time. No need to bring anything. Just register for the session below. We'll have pizza and refreshments as usual. Follow this topic for further information. When: Monday July 17, 2017 - 6:30 - 10:00pm Where: The Ring :wacko: [seatt-form event_id=2]

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Build It

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      Arthur

    • Classic Era Challenge I (1966-1971) – February 2, 2018 @ The Ring It doesn't get any simpler than this for those of you who just want to go fast with any ready to run NSR, Slot.It or other manufacturer's model or build your own to race - any motor, any chassis, any configuration and hardly any rules - a mandatory marked tire will keep it fair but the rest is up to each of you. Want to race your NSR out of the box just with tires? Go for it. Want to tune the crap out of your NSR? Go for it. Want to build your own torsion or rattle pan chassis? Go for it. Want to race your hand wound motor? Go for it. Don't want to read too many rules? Great! Can't read? Don't worry... Like to argue over rules? Too bad - nothing to argue about here... Almost anything goes. Simple Rules & Guidelines Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. NEW Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. More Information, including a list of reserved (or available) race numbers, will be found below. Right now, all numbers, including three digit numbers, are available. Looking forward hopefully this can become a series hosted at other tracks too, perhaps on a monthly basis. For now we will start next Friday here at The Ring... :good: Please spread this link around to everyone who you believe may wish to participate regardless of with whom or where they raced in the past or present. Everyone is welcome.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • R32 V – Spa-Lyons – January 3, 2018 – Ringing in the New Year at Spa! After a long hiatus, 5 fickle fingers of fate returned to Spa on January 3rd 2018. Pedigrees and pedicures were de rigueur, as they should be at a Spa session. Alas, the Greektown customs agents delayed the arrival of 1 intrepid racer, suspected of travelling with a formerly suspect controller. Nastycab rumbl'd 'N'rubbed the 1st clash of the evening, and the good ol' boys had a Hee Haw of a time. Now to them thar pictures      

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Classic Era Challenge II (1966 – 1971) – March 24, 2018 @ MVL After some time away from the Molto VeLoce Circuit located in Oakville ON Scratch32 and R32 will be returning to this prestigious exotic car location and their 4 lane custom routed slot car track by DArt. The first event tentatively scheduled for MVL will be the second round of the ‘R32 Classic Era Challenge’ on Saturday March 24, 2018 at 11am. [This was originally scheduled for March 17 but scheduling issues required a change to March 24.] Orange dot tires are mandatory – and the rules remain as before: 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked orange dot Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Our assigned racing number list so far: [table id=6 /] Everyone who wishes to participate on Saturday March 24, 2018 must log in and register below regardless of whether or not they already have their assigned racing numbers (limit of 3). Those that do not have a scratch32 account or need to acquire their orange dot tires and/or racing numbers must contact me as soon as possible by email at: [email protected] [seatt-form event_id=15]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • R32 VI – The Ring – March 7, 2018 R32 VI March 7, 2018 - The Ring Final Results [foogallery id="5976"] Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #98 - ArT – 75 Laps (8.498 ext.); #33 – JmO – 74 (12.746); #48 – MiA – 74 (12.961). Formula 1 (Stock) F1S (180 sec. x 3 x 1 =9 min.) [Off =-1 Lap]: #9 – ArT – 81 Laps (12.094 ext.); #22 – JmO – 80 (9.955); #7 – ArT – 79 (4.065); #7 – MiA – 76 (12.435); #22 – MiA – 76 (13.394); #70 – JmO – 73 (8.679). LeMans P/GT (LMP/GT) (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #12 – ArT – 88 Laps (13.058 ext.); #5 – MiA – 83 (8.515); #1 – MiA – 79 (14.491); #2 – JmO – 78 (11.482); #062 – ArT – 78 (30.000); #2 – JmO – 75 (6.418). CAN AM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [Off = -1 Lap]: #19 – ArT – 90 Laps (7.998 ext.); #30 – JmO – 86 (8.765); #7 – ArT – 84 (13.563); #99 – JmO – 78 (10.012); #65 – MiA – 77 (10.647); #16 - MiA – 76 (7.118).

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • R32 VIII – Molto Veloce – April 14, 2018 R32 VIII Molto VeLoce - April 14, 2018 Final Results [foogallery id="6465"] Trans Am (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #23 - ArT - 76 Laps (7.671 ext.); #45 - ArT - 74 (6.785); #76 - JiM - 74 (11.098); #2 - DwM - 71 (10.327); #48 - MiA - 71 (14.768); #2 - JiM - 68 (15.473); #35 - DwM - 68 (18.300); #18 - MiA - 60 (12.165). LMP/GT (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #12 - ArT - 85 Laps (9.821 ext.); #8 - DwM - 82 (22.694); #009 - MiA - 78 (13.510); #17 - JiM - 75 (14.421). Group 5 (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #30 - ArT - 86 Laps (14.071 ext.); #77 - JiM - 78 (14.128); #23 - DwM - 78 (17.949); #79 - MiA - 72 (9.642). CANAM (180 sec. x 3 x 1 = 9 min.) [2 Offs = -1 Lap] #65 - ArT - 84 Laps (6.297 ext.); #2 - DwM - 80 (11.337); #27 - ArT - 80 (11.898); #12 - DwM - 78 (8.610); #52 - JiM - 77 (9.740); #72 - JiM - 76 (11.001); #2 - MiA - 74 (15.524); #16 - MiA - 72 (6.571).

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Arthur

    • Classic Era Challenge III (1966 – 1971) – August 10, 2018 @ The Ring After some head scratching, a few postponements and a venue change it is finally time to get the ball rolling for Round III. Due to the season a smaller turnout is expected which means that those who do attend will get much more racing in... so in the famous words of Whitesnake - 'Here we go again':Over the next few days I'll post the # list we have so far along with event details. The rules are pretty simple - any model with a hard body/shell that competed in an endurance race during this period whether RTR, 'unobtainium', made by NASA or pulled from thin air with DArt 'Orange Dot' club urethane tires. Should anyone need orange dot tires please let me know. If you do not yet have your racing #s or if you have any other questions this is the topic to reply to.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Anonymous

    • Classic Era Challenge Cup V (1966-1971) Gentlemen, it is time once again for the fifth edition of our Classic Era Challenge Cup (1966 – 1971) now scheduled for Saturday, February 2, 2019 @ Molto VeLoce (MVL). The rules remain the same. Mandatory orange dot DArt club urethane tires on the rear wheels AND hard plastic body that raced in a period endurance race with any period fantasy livery ARE REQUIRED. The rest is up to you… any material… RTR or scratch… Simple Rules & Guidelines v1.0 1)      Open to any Prototype (P) or Sportscar (S), regardless of displacement, that competed between 1966 and 1971 in any endurance race which was part of the World Sportscar Championship or International Championship sanctioned by the FIA. By endurance race we mean a race lasting many hours (ie. 24, 12, 6) or over a large distance (ie. 1000k). Headlights are not a requirement (if the model raced did not have them) nor must headlights be functional. 2)      Bodies must be hard plastic/resin with period appropriate (actual or fantasy) livery. No two entries may have the same race number. Race numbers will be reserved or assigned (see below). 3)      Interiors may be made from any material. There is no minimum level of detail required by either a body or interior but attention to detail will always be appreciated. 4)      Rear tires must be marked Darts for this event/series and will be available in the following sizes: D11, SI0201 (or NC0102) and NC0101. 5)      This event is open to any adult with an eligible model and controller. 6)      Any model that compromises the track for others in any way will not be permitted or will be removed from the track. Reserving Your Race Number & Purchasing Marked DArts One (1) number may be reserved or will be assigned (absent a request) for each pair of marked DArt tires purchased up to a maximum of 3 per participant regardless of how many pair of marked DArts are purchased by anyone. Numbers will be reserved or confirmed upon receipt of payment (pickup may be on a later date or even at the event). The deadline to purchase your DArts (or reserve your racing number(s)) will be midnight the day prior to the event. Multiple models may qualify but only the top entry for each participant will advance. NO loaners or substitutions after qualifying has begun and all models will be impounded from that point on. Contact me to order/purchase your marked DArt tires by email: [email protected]. Format: All models must either qualify or advance through elimination heats to make it to the A main for a chance to win or place in this event/series. Starting position will be assigned by random draw and all participants will have an opportunity to qualify for or advance all the way to the A main. Since this is FREE there will be no guaranteed minimum number of minutes raced. The number of participants will dictate the exact format chosen. So, you may qualify up to three models but must choose one to race. Remember to use your assigned numbers for those models you wish to qualify. Timed practice will start at 10:00am… followed by qualifying and then the race. Here is our current list of registered numbers which will be updated in real time: [table id=6 /]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Arthur

    • R32 & SOS I @ The Ring – February 21, 2019 SOS & R32 I The Ring [foogallery id="10688"] Trans Am (TA): #52 Camaro – 78 Laps (17.632 ext.) 7.006 sec.; #15 Mustang – 77 (13.577) 7.049; #2 Camaro – 76 (10.133) 6.948; #98 Cougar – 76 (13.056) 7.052; #18 Mustang – 73 (11.295) 7.186; #33 Camaro – 70 (5.040) 7.166; #15 Mustang – 63 (7.985) 7.866. Trans Am (TA - Modified): #13 Camaro – 76 (7.596 ext.) 6.815 sec. Group C (GCI): #7 Porsche – 89 Laps (13.891 ext.) 6.055 sec.; #3 Jaguar – 86 (4.776) 6.096; #14 Sauber Mercedes – 85 (8.547) 6.156; #85 Nissan – 82 (4.520) 6.302; #62 Sauber Mercedes – 81 (9.383) 6.409; #17 Porsche – 80 (8.191) 6.516; #19 Porsche – 69 (3.282) 6.840. Group C (GCI – Modified): #18 Porsche – 85 Laps (9.618 ext.) 6.149 sec.. Formula One (F1): #9 Lotus Renault – 87 Laps (13.973 ext.) 6.203 sec.; #44 Mercedes – 86 (9.335) 6.211; #7 Mercedes – 82 (8.237) 6.272; #10 Williams – 81 (6.104) 6.349; #7 Lotus Renault – 74 (7.915) 6.807; #33 Red Bull Aston Martin – 74 (12.121) 6.482; #6 Lotus Renault/Williams – 77 (19.417) 6.729 (DNF – Backup). CANAM (CA): #65 Chaparral 2E – 90 Laps (3.086 ext.) 5.916 sec.; #30 Lola T70 & #52 Lola T70 – 89 (9.675) 5.806; #6 Porsche 917/30 & #5 McLaren & #48 McLaren – 86 (13.504) 5.950; #33 Alfa Romeo T33/4 – 83 (8.728) 6.212; #101 Shadow DN4 – 82 (16.805) 6.301; #7 Lola T70 – DNF (Accident). Everyone also walked away a winner with a door prize - thank you to Ken for your generous contributions! JoS your door prize is waiting for you... 

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Avatar photoMiA

    • R32 XXXV @ Spa-Lyons – February 24, 2020 On a chilly February evening, and for the second time this decade, teams loaded up their transporters for the journey to Spa-Lyons. Teams arrived to find the track already alive with spectators, many who had come to cheer on their favourite who was scheduled to debut the new Rover BRM turbine car. Spectators and media had assumed the best possible locations. Even Bib was trying to get in on the show. Track regulars Bill and Sally were back at Hot Tub Corner again, but mindful of the stir created by them during the last race meeting, the Woman’s White Cross League were there in their proper skirts and practical loafers, attempting (somewhat futilely perhaps) to preserve virtuous behaviour for all of mankind!! As the evening began, drivers seemed unusually well behaved (perhaps it was the lack of a NASCAR event) and things started off smoothly with a 50’s Vintage race. After a very gentlemanly race with few incidents, Robert Manzon in his beautiful Gordini T-32, relived his triumphant finish in the GP of Reims and showed the field the way home with 63 laps. He was followed one lap later (62) by ‘The Pampas Bull’ Jose Froilan Gonzalez, showing the Italian flag and driving the same Ferrari 375 he had driven to victory in the 1951 Silverstone GP. Two laps back with 60 was Snidley Whiplash in his beautiful turquoise Maserati 250F. With 58 laps, and in his reserve Ferrari D50, was Juan Manuel Fangio with 58 laps. Next up on the schedule were sports cars. A mixed bag representing a wide range of eras took to the track. A Jaguar XK120 fresh from the Alpen Rally led the field with 61 laps, followed by a 1965 Rover BRM driven by crowd favourite Sir Jackie Stewart only 5 seconds behind in second. Punching well above it’s class, the VW Beetle 1200 DeLuxe of Manuel Hinke, fresh (??) from it’s running in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana finished a distant 3rd with 57 laps, but showing it's heels to an even older 1950 Ferrari 166 MM/212 “Uovo” driven by Giannino ‘the tailor’ Marzotto that finished with 56 laps. With 52 laps, the 1966 Porsche 904 GTS of George Follmer and Peter Gregg that ran in the 1966 Sebring 12 hours followed along after a very tidy run. Sir Jackie’s result sent many of the elated fans scurrying to open a fresh Tripel Karmeliet and racing was paused so all could enjoy the moment. After a break and a delicious chocolate cupcake sugar fix courtesy of Johnathan the drivers were back at it in Vintage Lemans cars. A lone Ferrari 512S Coda Lunga in very un-Italian silver led an almost all Porsche grid to the chequered flag with a blistering 68 laps. It was followed 3 laps later by a Porsche 907 LH in livery as raced in the 1968 24H of Daytona piloted by Jo Siffert & Hans Hermann. It was followed 2 laps later by a Porsche 917K from the 1970 24 Hrs. of Lemans and driven by Gijs Van Lennep & David Piper with 63 laps. Next along with 62 laps was a 1971 Porsche 917LH  in Martini livery that was raced by Gérard Larrousse & Vic Elford. A 1969 Targa Florio liveried Porsche 907K piloted by Hans Dieter Dechent and Gerhard Koch rounded out the field with 57 laps. The evening ended with CanAm cars roaring to life. After many enlightening trips past Hot Tub Corner the McLAREN M8D sponsored by Paul Newman Racing and as driven by  Bob Bondrant at the 1971 series opening race at Mosport easily outclassed the field with a scorching 73 laps. Eating tire dust all the way home, the team of an Alfa Romeo T33/4 driven by Scooter Patrick and sponsored  by West Coast Distributor Otto Zipper Alfa and  a Chaparral 2E as  piloted by Phil Hill at the 1966 Mosport Can-Am trailed in 6 laps later with 67 circuits. A McLaren M20 piloted by Denny Hulme was further back with 64 laps and having a few mechanical issues a 1974 McLaren M20 Interseries car piloted by privateer Mark Kelleners finished with 58 laps. A 1971 Sebring liveried Alfa Romeo T33/3 liveried as driven by Nino Vaccarella and Tony Heinzman finished with 57 laps. To the victors went the champagne as they were all toasted appropriately, in the finest time honoured tradition. It was great to return again to Spa-Lyons. Thanks to our host Drew and his wife Nancy for their hospitality on a brisk February evening!

      Started by: Avatar photoMiA in: R32

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      Arthur

    • R32 LI FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, June 4, 2022 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: Classic Stock Car (CSC) Modern F1 (F1) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Modern LeMans (LMP/GT) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4. Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. Courtesy F1nutz: Delicious Rum Balls for everyone! Thank you F1nutz! Classic Stock Car (CSC): #20 - 94 Laps (21.752 ext.) #92 - 91 (20.536) #34 - 91 (23.591) #32 - 88 (10.733) #29 - 83 (18.802) #41 - 80 (13.345) Modern F1 (F1): #9 - 102 Laps (18.016 ext.) #14 - 102 (19.219) #9 - 99 (5.230) #4 - 99 (11.939) #7 - 97 (11.052) #? - 92 (18.034) #22 - 91 (16.213) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP): #51 - 104 Laps (12.342 ext.) #19 - 102 (13.533) #15 - 101 (38.289) #50 - 100 (16.739) #11 - 95 (34.623) #12 - 93 (14.317) Modern LeMans (LMP/GT): #60 - 107 Laps (13.257 ext.) #33 - 104 (6.914) #11 - 104 (16.933) #1 - 99 (16.244) #76 - 99 (20.112) #062 - 94 (18.860) [foogallery id="26840"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Avatar photoMiA

    • R32 LIV FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, July 9, 2022 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: Trans Am (TA) Classic LeMans (CLM) Group C/IMSA (GCI) CANAM (CA) Format: 4 minute heats (240 seconds) x 3 (Blue Lane Shut Down). Voltage set @ 10.5v One marshal for every heat - on track calls every offer must wait until passed by other models. Race to line result will determine finishing order.   Trans Am (TA): #2 - 95 Laps (15.902 ext.) #45 - 94 (19.480) #40 - 92 (10.855) #6 - 78 (14.875) #78 - DNS #1 - DNS Classic LeMans (CLM): #25 - 99 Laps (15.761 ext.) #11 - 96 (15.271) #4 - 93 (3.358) #67 - 88 (10.536) #52 - DNS #18 - DNS Group C/IMSA (GCI): #19 - 104 Laps (16.601) #14 - 100 (7.951) #25 - 100 (8.473) #27 - 89 (2.102) #86 - DNS #6 - DNS CANAM (CA): #30 - 111 Laps (13.822) #59 - 109 (13.554) #52 - 107 (17.665) #65 - 96 (14.600) #22 - DNS #33 - DNS [foogallery id="28769"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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      Avatar photoMiA

    • New track in the east Basic plans have been drawn up by Art to make a 2-lane new track in my basement. Art was kind enough to take on the task of fitting a small track into a tiny basement. I don't have a name for it yet. Maybe the KRZ Twister? Name suggestions are most welcome. The final dimensions will be on a 5' foot by 10' foot base. The closest rooms to the track are the washroom and kitchen. It should work out well to host races for small groups. Everything in life is time sensitive. I should have done this a few years ago. Thank you to Art for accepting the challenge.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • R32 LVIII FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, October 1, 2022 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: NASCAR (NC) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) Group C/IMSA (GCI) 1960's 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) Format: 4 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order NASCAR (NC): #54 - 100 Laps (16.648 ext.) #24 - 99 (19.996) #35 - 99 (22.819) #88 - 96 (22.256) #88 - 93 (25.077) #88 - 86 (19.108) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP): #5 - 96 Laps (17.399 ext.) #31 - 95 (23.755) #58 - 93 (15.946) #152 - 91 (16.866) #26 - 88 (9.933) #54 - 81 (15.168) Group C/IMSA (GCI): #19 - 108 Laps (20.221 ext.) #34 - 105 (16.345) #86 - 104 (13.012) #17 - 101 (16.853) #62 - 101 (20.688) #27 - 98 (25.059) 1960's 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP): #10 - 110 Laps (19.241 ext.) #8 - 107 (14.609) #12 - 105 (18.368) #14 - 96 (20.520) #36 - 90 (14.697) Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • R32 LIX FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, October 15, 2022 @ Nova Ridge Classes: NASCAR (NC) Classic LeMans (CLM) Modern F1 (F1) Group 5 (G5) Format: 4 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Five marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order NASCAR (NC): #32 - 56 Laps (20.015 ext.) #97 - 56 (25.601) #97 - 56 (33.131) #24 - 55 (42.082) #7 - 54 (18.506) #24 - 53 (30.390) #88 - 51 (21.690) #48 - 49 (31.159) #18 - 44 (49.283) Classic LeMans (CLM): #35 - 58 Laps (21.909 ext.) #33 - 58 (33.120) #25 - 57 (20.722) #8 - 57 (23.127) #1 - 56 (25.050) #21 - 55 (22.279) #15 - 53 (51.057) #11 - 52 (22.361) #52 - 51 (45.829) Modern F1 (F1): #Mercedes - 60 Laps (14.902 ext.) #Williams - 59 (34.170) #McLaren - 59 (36.800) #McLaren - 57 (22.006) #Mercedes - 55 (37.942) #Renault - 55 (39.000) #Mercedes - 54 (32.568) #Ferrari - 53 (28.065) #Mercedes - 52 (27.660) Group 5 (G5): #23 - 62 Laps (31.455 ext.) #51 - 61 (21.205) #14 - 60 (15.700) #51 - 59 (26.733) #30 - 57 (21.758) #63 - 56 (20.863) #9 - 56 (24.688) #16 - 54 (23.438) #23 - 54 (46.310) [foogallery id="30569"] Thank you to everyone who participated! ... Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • The new Hot Rod Garage I finally tore apart the workbench and moved it out of the track room. An opportunity to clean up and re-organize. The bench as it used to be. Lots of holes were left in the walls. Oops. Me fix! The bench was moved into the basement kitchen. The drill press is now on the other side of the kitchen, and away from the slot car assembly area. A plywood back was added to the bench. Look wife... no more holes in the walls! (Except for the tire-rack on the right side) I can finally start building cars again. And finish the track room!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • R32 LXVII FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, February 4, 2023 @ Molto VeLoce Classes: NASCAR (NC) 1960's Endurance Sportscars (60SP) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) Modern F1 (F1) Format: 4 minute heats (210 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.9v Three marshals for every heat Race to line result determines finishing order NASCAR (NC): #24 - 114 Laps (19.801 ext.) #54 - 112 (8.943) #48 - 111 (8.838) #26 - 110 (14.415) #88 - 109 (22.597) #24 - 105 (17.037) #24 - 103 (15.618) 1960's Endurance Sportscars (60SP): #8 - 110 Laps (18.437 ext.) #152 - 110 (20.315) #54 - 108 (10.130) #50 - 107 (15.404) #26 - 104 (20.139) #47 - 101 (10.053) #54 - 94 (22.417) 3.0L LeMans (3LM): #7 - 127 Laps (20.954 ext.) #T3 - 126 (17.192) #8 - 125 (14.747) #32 - 123 (8.697) #85 - 123 (20.278) #8 - 117 (14.951) #8 - 115 (20.196) Modern F1 (F1): #10 - 120 Laps (16.820 ext.) #9 - 118 (13.838) #14 - 117 (11.898) #9 - 116 (22.010) #5 - 86 (82.250) #7 - 30 (15.431) [foogallery id="35996"] Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • R32 LXVIII FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, February 18, 2023 @ Nova Ridge Classes: Trans Am 1950's Endurance Sportscars 1970's Grand Prix Modern LeMans Prototype/GT Boulevard Cruisers Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order Trans Am: #14 - 53 Laps (38.668 ext.) #6 - 52 (18.840) #1 - 52 (24.598) #1 - 52 (55.073) #86 - 51 (25.117) #6 - 47 (36.605) 1950's Endurance Sportscar: #9 - 52 Laps (34.599 ext.) #21 - 52 (35.539) #38 - 51 (34.061) #149 - 48 (27.557) #10 - 47 (49.826) #410 - 45 (49.044) 1970's Grand Prix: #51 - 59 Laps (35.655 ext) #5 - 56 (19.148) #8 - 56 (31.277) #15 - 54 (20.389) #29 - 53 (27.375) #3 - 50 (38.020) Modern LeMans Prototype/GT: #12 - 60 Laps (12.348 ext) #77 - 60 (30.690) #11 - 60 (36.966) # - 59 (30.576) #3 - 58 (20.541) #5 - 56 (39.146) Boulevard Cruisers: 53 Laps (22.085 ext) 53 (31.009) 50 (33.342) 48 (23.753) 46 (28.209) [foogallery id="36722"] Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • R32 @ Spa Lyons FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, February 25, 2023 @ Spa Lyons Classes: 1950's & 1960's Endurance Sportscars (50SP & 60SP) Classic LeMans (CLM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) 1970's Grand Prix (70GP) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Three marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order 1950's & 1960's Endurance Sportscars: Classic LeMans: 3.0L LeMans: 1970's Grand Prix: [foogallery id="37419"]  

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • R32 LXX FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 18, 2023 @ Nova Ridge Classes: NASCAR 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar Trans Am Plus CANAM Indy Roadster [Time Permitting] Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4 Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order NASCAR: #24 - 54 Laps (27.218 ext.) #11 - 53 (17.573) #35 - 52 (29.882) #88 - 52 (44.927) #24 - 49 (17.492) #48 - 48 (26.701) 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar: #1 - 52 Laps (11.430 ext.) #6 - 52 (23.499) #5 - 52 (38.431) #88 - 51 (36.992) #36 - 50 (41.600) #65 - 48 (34.263) Trans Am Plus: #43 - 56 Laps (33.254 ext) #9 - 56 (33.629) #6 - 53 (19.341) #45 - 52 (7.541) #6 - 48 (30.954) #47 - 47 (41.423) CANAM: #59 - 60 Laps (11.512 ext) #22 - 60 (34.243) #11 - 60 (36.842) #7 - 59 (37.554) #33 - 56 (45.887) #8 - 54 (20.129) [foogallery id="38106"] Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • R32 LXXI - FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, March 25, 2023 @ The Ring Classes: 1950's Endurance Sportscar (50SP) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+) Boulevard Cruisers (BC) Format: 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 3 Voltage set @ 10.5v Two marshals for every heat - no penalty for track calls Race to line result determines finishing order 1950's Endurance Sportscar (50SP): #47 - 70 Laps (14.073 ext.) #24 - 70 (17.805) #7 - 68 (9.959) #38 - 67 (7.207) #410 - 66 (14.537) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP): #152 - 71 Laps (12.530 ext.) #26 - 69 (2.746) #27 - 68 (5.190) #27 - 67 (10.324) #54 - 66 (9.828) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP): #27 - 75 Laps (10.119 ext) #93 - 71 (5.967) #88 - 71 (12.956) #97 - 69 (9.455) #98 - 69 (14.250) 1960-1965 SCCA and USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+): #128 - 80 Laps (3.809 ext) #47 - 79 (11.297) #66 - 79 (13.107) #4 - 70 (10.401) #65 - 68 (13.949) Boulevard Cruisers (BC): 74 Laps (11.708 ext.) 72 (8.421) 62 (16.407) [foogallery id="38350"] Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

    • 4
    • 5
    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • La Carrera Panamericana XIII Share your entry details including photographs within this topic thread by replying. NOTE: to register you must fill in the online model registration form located within the events calendar. Thank you for sharing!!!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 1 month ago

      Arthur

    • 1965 Impala Super Sport This pre-painted and fully assembled static model came from a Group25 flea market. It was a quick test to see how these large cars would run at Nova Ridge. It was quickly turned into a slot car test bed. My humble apologies. The paint is ugly. But it passed the test. With the slot car test a complete success. It was time to freshen up the body. Off with the old paint. A full interior made of paper is next. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 4
    • 9 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1966 Olds 442 W30 I've never seen a slot car of a 66 Olds. It's an odd duck. Either you like them, or you don't. There's no middle ground. The box. The only parts that actually came in the box. Barely enough for a slot car. A pic of a completed kit on Google inspired the Tamiya Cobalt Green colour. A chassis was made. The car fell on its roof seconds after painting it. Thankfully a vinyl roof was in the works anyways. Problem solved. Mating the chassis to the body. The car is ready to run. It needs bumpers, window/body chrome, windows, and interior.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 2
    • 2
    • 9 months ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • 1964 Rover BRM I got very lucky in finding this kit. They simply aren't available anymore. The real cars were gas-turbine powered test-beds. Very strange car. The first step to planning out the chassis: What is the wheelbase? Using tires that are too large just for the purpose of measuring the wheelbase can reduce room for error. I happen to have a pair of old 17" inch Slot.It wheels/tires that were the wrong choice for another car. Perfect! Slide the body into the wheels/tires until the wheel-wells of the body centers the tires. (this one's easy because the wheel wells are round) Carefully slide the body away making sure not to move the wheels. I measure the left side of the axle holes on both wheels to get the wheelbase. In this case it's 73.30mm. It doesn't matter what the actual finished tire diameter is. The wheels will be perfectly centered in the wheel well. The old 17" inch wheels go back on the shelf to measure the next car.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 8
    • 10 months ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • Paint Spree I just got back from the cottage, and painted a body or two while I was there. The first was a flat black Fly truck with a tobacco livery. A crappy colour with an undesirable livery is great excuse to paint it. Taking it apart was interesting. At least the weather was nice. Then I painted a few HO bodies. Between the truck and the HO cars, I went through three cans of clear-coat and ran out before I finished painting. Three bodies still need clear-coat. Practise is good.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 10 months ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Aston Ulster PGP+ entry Hello gang, 1935 Aston Ulster 1.5L PGP+ entry, Matchbox kit... I believe driven in the 1935 'Targa Abruzzi" by Giovanni Lurani(private entry) but after much research, no pics to corroborate(need our historian to wade in and virtually zeroid on Racingsportscars and other sites), but perhaps my sleuthing skills ain't what they used to be.... :>)  Stupid question of the day...How do I add to model db? Thanks    

      Started by: Avatar photoPorsche911 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 17
    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • 1/87 fun Inspired by MIA’s Aston Martin article I thought I’d post a pic of an Ho transporter and cargo I picked up on my most recent visit to Ireland. It is a postal vehicle breakdown lorry made by Oxford die cast as are its cargo.

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 4
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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1936 Auto Union Type C – #4 Bernd Rosemeyer This is a PGP+ class eligible model for our Pre War Coppa D'oro series. The main restrictions for this class (apart from the mandated motor) are a maximum track of 50.8mm (excluding inserts which may extend beyond) and maximum tire diameter of 23mm. Of course all tires must be DArt club series urethanes and wheels cannot exceed 16.5mm in diameter nor be wider than 5.5mm... so armed with that info we can begin building something eligible...The basis for this build was the DArt Auto Union C Type body kit with a few modifications and upgrades. As always I begin with the wheels which I modified by turning down a set of 4 DArt DA16x9XL alloy wheels. I carefully mounted 4 DA0210 club series tires using clear Gorilla Glue after scuffing the outer rim surface and let them dry overnight before truing with my Hudy. Using the truer I also narrowed the front tires using a sharp Xacto knife. After sorting the overall tire diameters I gathered some small bushings and the rest of the parts needed including the low power BWMS050 motor with a 1.5mm 10T pinion. Initially I also opted for an aftermarket 23T crown gear but then went with the orange 25T gear instead after initial testing. I opted for a simple torsion chassis using a combination of piano wire and brass. The front end would use stub axles made from piano wire with DuBro No2 steel washers soldered on one end. Because the washers were too large in diameter they needed to be ground down to fit within my front axle braces. I also fabricated the motor mount and guide sleeve. After sanding all of the parts I soldered the rear end together. Then I made the front section. The front and rear sections are only held together with piano wire tabs that slide inside a small brass tube. By gently pulling them apart (and out of the tube) you can separate the front and rear halves of the chassis which allows for convenient cleaning and maintenance. The wire tension is enough to hold it in place. Before final re-assembly I made sure to clean any flux residue before applying a blackening treatment to all of the chassis parts using a disposable dollar store brush. Make sure you are happy with the chassis - because after you apply the blackening chemical treatment to the steel you won't be able to solder anything to it. While the steel does turn black the brass is more stubborn and will only give you an antique look at best - but I still prefer this to painting anyday - and I prefer to take away the shine of brass (or steel) especially on exposed parts that don't reflect the real thing. I painted the wire wheel inserts that came with the kit and after final assembly I glued them in place using white glue. The assembled chassis weighs in at 45.7g.. I wanted to use as much of a complete pilot and interior so I modified the original body by opening up the cockpit. I also extended the cockpit slightly by removing material up to the recess for the original windscreen (which I would replace with a more detailed windscreen from the DArt Type D body kit).The painted and washed body shell (without interior and exterior detail) now weighs 9.6g. Decals which I printed on clear Testor's decal sheeting were applied. I also used Micro Mark decals for the front grill detail. Then I made firewalls which could be glued in place using thin styrene sheeting. Other upgraded parts included a pilot figure, head, steering wheel, shifter and interior side panels from the DArt D Type body kit, plus DArt button radiator cap and DArt fuel cap. After painting the body silver I added a black wash using Tamiya flat black acrylic paint diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner to bring out more detail where I wanted it. If using the acrylic thinner (which is alcohol based) only apply carefully where you want it and let it pool and dry to give the desired effect. Quickly wick away any wash that creeps where you don't want it since the longer it remains the harder it will be to clean away. Once it is dry it is impossible to remove easily - you'll need to polish it out then. I would do the interior first. I would use clear 5 minute epoxy to fix everything in place, starting with the firewalls. Then came the seat back (minus head rest) and dashboard. While that dried I removed the lower portion of the pilot's legs and sanded away the underside of his thighs to give me as much clearance underneath as possible. Luckily I did not need to shrink his torso. Once satisfied with the fit (and clearance) of the torso/legs I glued the pilot arms to the torso and placed the steering wheel in his hands and let dry. [I trimmed the steering wheel shaft since I never fix the steering wheel to the dashboard - I always leave it in the pilot's hands - which I find much easier to work with.] Then I glued the pilot's body to the seat and let that dry. Then the side panels were fixed in place and finally the shifter was added. The interior was done. I could add a styrene piece underneath his legs to finish the interior but I'll leave that alone for now. [Turns out the blackened chassis works nicely underneath so I decided to not bother adding a floor.] Exterior details were then added. The windscreen was second last - after hand drilling a pair of holes to fix it in place. Finally a solid aluminium wire was added to the rear of the body through another small hole hand drilled. The completed body now weighs 12.9g. Not bad!Add two screws and four urethane washers (2 for some body float and 2 underneath the head of each screw (to prevent the screws from backing out) and our completed model weighs in at 59 g.The original crown gear performed just fine when the chassis alone was tested (before the body was completed) but as fate would have it would fail on the first lap in its debut... but replaced and tested the model is very quick and this chassis shows lots of promise for 2022.Happy to answer any questions. If you would like to upgrade any parts on your C Type (like I did) drop me a line... Cheers! [foogallery id="20971"]

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJohnnySlots

    • 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 8
    • 19
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Ford V8 Special – #32 – Ireneu Correa – 1935 Rio Grand Prix Many consider Ireneu Correa as the 'grandfather' of Brazilian motor racing since he was the first Brazilian to win an international race - the 1934 Rio Grand Prix - which was raced on the lengthy Gavea course. A little history on the Rio Grand Prix can be found here. South American racers who competed in early motor sport events throughout the Americas favoured and raced North American models right up to the outbreak of the second world war and this was particularly true for Correa until his death in 1935. These models were not elegant - they were in fact very hard to look at - but in the 1930's they achieved successes in part because their competition was focused on motor sporting events back on the European continent. But by the mid to late 30's European entries would begin to dominate major south American events such as the Rio Grand Prix. Correa trained in the United States as a mechanic in order to modify and prepare his own race cars. The entry which he prepared for his return as Champion of the Rio Grand Prix in 1935 was yet another Ford - a V8 Special - entered as #32. Unfortunately on the first lap while chasing the race leader Correa would skid out of control and hit a tree launching his car into the canal - an accident that he would not survive. Believe it or not his car would return to race again but became known as 'the cursed car' after killing another pilot. And so with that historical perspective in mind I decided to kitbash a Lindberg Ford kit into something unusual to compete against a deluge of European models for a new 'pre-war' class - an early to mid '30's Ford V8 Special, as prepared and raced by Correa in the 1935 Rio Grand Prix. I'm not a rivet counter or a scale fanatic nor do I believe that a slot car must be as detailed as a static model so I kept an open mind when planning the chassis, but first I would have to bash a body. My priority was for this car to look right when circling the track. That being said I still wanted the model to be as close to scale and as detailed as possible. It was also imperative that the guide be hidden as much as possible and not be visible at all when viewed from above. I shortened, lowered and narrowed the back of the kit body and then fabricated the rear end using styrene sheet and tubing to make the extra fuel tank and crown gear cover (to which the spare tire would be fixed) and wrapped it with a thin piece of L shaped styrene stock. The interior floor was raised in the centre to accommodate the FF050 motor and two DArt racing seats were modified to fit side by side. At the front I added a few styrene plates to cover the gaps left underneath the motor covers along with a few body flaps where the windscreen used to be. I used as much of the frame that came with the kit as I could - and left the fender seam and the trim underneath the front grill. The rear of the frame together with the bottom of the fuel tank (I think that is what it is) was cut off and added underneath the new rear end. The rest of the kit would be tossed except for the steering wheel, shifter, brake and dashboard.  A complete DArt 'Nouvolari' driver figure would lose its head in favour of another DArt replacement. and that would come later. When I was finished I was left with two pieces - the complete body, floor and rear end and the separate frame which could be glued to the body after paint. I turned 5 wheels to 16.5 x 5.3mm which would accommodate a set of DA0210 urethane tires and DArt spoked inserts. I know these inserts have too many spokes but I liked their overall look and how they extended well beyond the wheel flange. I also cut off the ears leaving just a small round cap at the centre instead of the original two eared knock off. In order to ensure that the installation of each insert (after paint) would go without a hitch I drilled out material from the backside in the centre of each insert to accommodate any small extension of the axle and the washer for independent fronts. The overall diameter of these wheels with tires mounted and trued was 23mm. With dimensions of the body and wheels now in hand it was time to plan the chassis. I fabricated a small motor bracket for the BWMS050 motor and would use two sizes of piano wire and brass tubing to join everything together. I went with very small Slot.It bushings at the rear in order to give me flexibility in mounting the rear of the body. Due to the ride height of the chassis and with several parts needing to be attached at different levels this chassis took a little more planning to make sure it would turn out right - measure twice, cut once. The motor would sit 3mm below the chassis and the guide sleeve 5mm below. The chassis didn't need to be too strong since it was for a low power motor and a lightweight body - and was never travelling to a proxy race. I decided to mount the body using some styrene tube into which the chassis would 'snap' at the rear and a #226 styrene post up front into which the 'V' shaped wire brace would be secured with a single screw. Material was removed from these three contact points until the ride height was where I wanted it and there was enough body float. Urethane DArt washers would allow sufficient body float and prevent the screw from ever backing out of the brass insert. My own research didn't turn up much to assist with this project so I needed to improvise and make educated guesses where appropriate. With a Brazilian owner/pilot it was more than likely that this model would have raced with a pale yellow body on top of a green frame/chassis with black numbers. I sprayed the wheels a lighter shade of green and weathered them with several washes of dirt. The body was sprayed yellow and then the paint was sanded using 1200 wet paper to give the finish a dull, worn and weathered look. Since I used grey primer underneath the colour changes slightly depending on how much paint was removed. Everything else was hand painted. Number decals were printed on my inkjet printer and sealed using Crystal Clear - and then applied. Nothing was used to seal or coat the decals after they were applied but I still might apply some Micro Set decal sealer by hand... I made a small cover from large styrene tubing which I painted flat black and glued to the front of the guide to hide the clips when viewed from the front. Other details included the textured belt and buckle and a spare with a small aluminium rod that was bent and fixed to the centre of the hub which secured the wheel on the real car. I planned to add a second tire underneath the spare but have not done so (yet).  The chassis components for this model: BWMS050 w10t brass pinion x 28t Slot.It crown (for now - gearing will be changed though); DArt 16.5mm x 5.3mm wheels with DArt inserts; DArt DA0210 urethane tires; Slot.It rear bushings and PM axles; Scalextric Round Guide with Slot.It braid and generic silicone lead wire; The basic specs (at present): 60.3g overall weight; Track: front = 53mm / rear=52mm (excluding inserts); Wheelbase: 80mm (83mm from guide); Chassis Clearance: 8mm / Min. Clearance: 5mm (at motor/bracket); The driver still needs a pair of goggles and a co-pilot is in the works too but there is no rush now that the model is ready for action. For more pictures of this eyesore visit our model gallery here.

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 28
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Los Angeles Slot Car Museum Greetings: I was looking at Google News and noticed a story (or paid advertisement?) in Motor Trend about the LASCM.    Thinking about my Revell Lang Cooper, Gar Vic, and Dynamic Chassis slot cars buried in a dump somewhere makes me ask "WHAT WAS I THINKING?" https://www.motortrend.com/features/los-angeles-slot-car-museum-profile

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 6
    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Updates Again… Gents, This weekend several upgrades were made to many of our plug ins and our wordpress server software - now up to v5.8... Among other things you will see that most profile pictures (avatars) for our users have disappeared. If you use a Gravatar image then this does not affect you. If your image has disappeared and you don't want to use Gravatar for cross platform image display then please re-submit your image next time you log in... images which did not meet the minimum avatar criteria may not display either, but you will be reminded of this when you upload an image... Also, smilies are gone and there are no plans to replace or add them right now... My apologies for the inconvenience.

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

    • 3
    • 5
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Taking Apart Scalextric GP When the Scalextric Legends series became available, I recall people saying that they had a hard time taking them apart to remove the magnets, as needed for participation in proxy races on plastic track. Of the Lotus49 versions, the Lotus72 versions, the Eagle T1G Weslake, and the Tyrrell 002/003, it turns out that the Tyrrell is the most difficult to open and take apart. This is because of the ‘clamshell body’ as well as the way the rear suspension is built, both factors being different from the other models in the series. I needed to take apart my Tyrrell in order to see what was causing the irregular power loss, and repair it. I also wanted to convert to a regular guide keel. I later found that the left rear rim is wobbling slightly, and the gear mesh is rough from 8.5V all the way past 15V.   Since the other models in the series are easier to take apart, a description for the Tyrrell should cover those as well.  [ I will outline some of the differences as they arise in the discussion, and provide some suggestions. ]  Besides repair, it’s also useful to open these cars first if you are considering a scratch-built chassis. Two items to note:  Even within a particular model, the cementing of the connection joints may be different from one sample to another and therefore may separate at a different junction. Because of the nature of these bodies and the intricate suspensions, in order to take them apart certain cemented joints may have to be broken apart and the tabs may break in the process.   A.  I would remove the rear wing and all tires, since they obstruct some of the joints you will be working on. The first main stage in opening these bodies starts with removing the 5 screws under the base plate. In the case of the Tyrell, this will loosen the seam between the top and bottom sections of the clamshell body. Now, slowly and carefully lift the front cowling, (top half, in front of the engine). This should eventually loosen and lift off.  That's the easy stage, completed.   As shown in the photo, you now have the driver, cockpit, guide keel, and front suspension open. This will allow replacement or repair of the guide keel, and you can re-assemble the car if no other work is needed. (I could now see that my red lead wire was frayed and must have finally broken; very fine wires, with little flex.)   B.  If you decide to go further, the second main stage of separation starts with holding both front rims in one hand; twist the front assembly slightly. Try to identify the seam joints in the front suspension – see which joints are cemented and which are just dry contact. In the case of the Tyrrell, there is U-shaped tab joint on the bottom of the front suspension assembly. That joint is cemented and must be carefully loosened by twisting, prying, making a partial cut through it, wedging with a tiny chisel blade (one of the optional Exacto knife blades), or by any other careful means that comes to mind.  If it is strongly cemented together, you may have to do a partial cut then break the seam – it can be easily cemented back together at re-assembly. (In my sample, the cemented seam separated quite well using the above methods, and it stayed intact for re-assembly. The tops of the springs were in dry contact.)   Once those bottom joints are loosened, the whole front assembly, rims, axles, top half of the suspension, link-plate to the instrument cluster and steering wheel, can all be lifted up off the car. [ After a grueling race, you may need to carefully pry the driver’s hands off the steering wheel! ]   As shown in the photo, unlike the other cars in the series, the Tyrrell has stub axles, so you would have to take things apart up to this stage if you were to change the plastic front rims to aluminum ones.   [ Comparison with the other models:  Judging from the joint seams on the other cars, it appears that: In the case of the Lotus49, the whole front suspension assembly would lift off of the chassis plate, and remain intact with the body. In the case of the Eagle and the Lotus72, the whole front suspension assembly would stay intact with the chassis plate. (As mentioned, it’s possible that this may still vary from one sample to another, depending on which seams are more strongly cemented.) ]   C.  The third and last stage in the work is a bit more tricky, but necessary if you want to repair or replace any parts related to the motor or rear axle assembly. There are two general ways to approach this stage.  Option-A involves breaking the seams at the bottom of the rear suspension uprights, and results in the top half of the engine-transmission housing, top half of the rear suspension assembly, and the full rear axle assembly, all lifting up off the rest, leaving the motor and bottom half of the suspension to remain with the chassis.  Option-B involves separating off the top half of the engine-transmission housing, lifting it upwards, and results in both the upper and lower suspension components, and the full rear axle assembly, remaining on the chassis along with the motor (basically as it would in a regular chassis). I tried the first approach and found that, on my sample, the seams at the bottom of the rear suspension uprights were hard to get at, and were strongly cemented, and there didn’t seem to be any other advantage to that option. On the other hand, I found (at least in my sample) that option-B would allow me to separate the key components at dry-fit joints.  With either approach, the first two steps in the work of this stage are the same. The rear oil tank/exhaust support covers the back seam of the transmission housing, and must be removed. It can be pried loose with a tiny chisel or flat-head screw driver. (In my sample, it snapped off clean without breaking the tab or socket.)  You will now find that the horizontal seam all around in between the upper and lower half of the Cosworth engine and transmission housing, is loose. But don’t try to separate it yet.  There are left and right tie rods coming up from the bottom rear corners of the suspension, linking to stabilizing arms that cross the top of the transmission housing. I found that I could flex the top arms downward and slide and flex the tie rods backward, enough to separate the two. The rear suspension springs contact the lower assembly by dry-fit and will separate away attached to the top half. Now the top half of the engine-transmission housing, along with the attached driver, can be carefully separated and lifted up off of the bottom half. The reason I say carefully, is that the left coolant pipe winds its way from the front radiator, along the side of the body, over the exhaust headers, and up over the top of the transmission cover. Fortunately it’s a flexible pipe and is dry-fitted, so it can be slowly flexed away as you remove engine-transmission.   This step completes the last stage of the separation work, and gives access to the motor and rear axle assembly, allowing changes in motor, pinion, axle, crown gear, bushings/bearings and rims.   [ Comparison with the other models:  I’ve described how taking apart the other cars in this series affects their front suspensions. The Lotus49, Eagle, and Lotus72 models also have rear suspension constructions that are easier to take apart than the Tyrrell 002/003. The models other than the Tyrrell have rear uprights that have an inverted U-shaped opening with two pegs at the bottom that fit into holes in a plate in the bottom A-arm. This connection is either a dry-fit, or a minimal glue surface connection in the samples I’ve seen. There are two advantages stemming from this geometry; there is either little or no glue seam to break at the bottom, and the U-shaped opening allows the whole rear axle assembly to be lifted off of the rear suspension and a new one dropped in its place. Whereas, on the Tyrrell, even after fully separated, there is still a cylinder surrounding the axle at the outer end of the suspension, even if other parts were cut away. This means that, in order to change the crown gear or the bushings, you must pull the axle through those disc surrounds that are moulded extensions of the uprights. The only way to do so is to pull the rims off of the axle, and force the crown gear off the axle over what I would assume would be a knurled section. This, all the while the axle and crown gear are being housed in a structure of flimsy plastic. The way these cars are designed, I can only conclude that they are not intended to have parts repaired or upgraded!  (Finding aluminum rims correctly sized to match, is another matter!) ]   I hope this description is of some use to anyone considering a replacement of internal parts, or design of a scratch-built chassis for these GP cars.        Felix.    

      Started by: Avatar photoFelix in: How To – Tune It

    • 3
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Sadler Mk 5 MIA mentioned the Sadler in the image with Ludwig Heimrath.  As mentioned, an interesting Canadian built car and Race Spirit Models has cast it but it ain't cheap! https://racespiritmodels.com/en/slot-cars-kits/1-kit-sadler-mk-5.html  

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Vintage Slot Cars

    • 3
    • 2
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • What kits are you buying, building, working on during isolation? I'm always looking for different and odd kits to build for the future. Here are some recent finds... Luis helped me pick this up from around the Hamilton area. Thank you Luis! The Triumph Herald is an odd looking duck. This Spitfire kit came from one of the members of Group-25. These just arrived from HobbyLink Japan. I finally got a Carrera Panamericana Beetle! What is everyone up to? What are you building or buying for future, possible builds? Post any build at all. Nothing is too strange. Cool scenery is interesting too. I may not build every kit. But it's fun poking through the boxes and deciding. :-)

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 24
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: Anonymous in: Drivers of the Past

    • 11
    • 11
    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Workbench Essentials

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    • 23
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Painting a Driver’s Head Last week I had the opportunity to paint a 1:10 scale driver's head for a friend. It was for his R/C off road vehicle - but I'm not sure which manufacturer's - I suspect Tamiya but I could very well be wrong... I used Tamiya flat acrylics diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner (for airbrushing) or water (hand painting/washes). After cleaning the plastic parts with SuperClean I airbrushed the head with a stock skin tone then darkened that skin tone slightly with a tiny amount of brown for the faint shadow underneath the cheeks, chin and ears. While the airbrush was still within reach I painted the cap with another stock dark olive colour. All of the airbrushing was done using roughly a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya acrylic paint and thinner to get a milk like consistency that I find perfect for airbrushing. Three light coats gave me enough base coverage. For the hand brushing I always start with the hardest or more detailed parts first - in this case the eyes - since if I screw things up I don't lose as much time if I have to apply the base coat over again. For the eyes I washed in some off white (which I think is still too bright - next time I'll add more colour to the white) then painted the iris blue and then the pupil black. I added a little line of diluted brown both above and below the eye for his eyelashes. Then I added a few very diluted washes of red over the lips - starting with the most diluted coat first over the whole lip area followed by a touch more pigment to the centre of the lips until I was satisfied with the result. Brown hair and eyebrows were next followed by some lightened highlights. Cleanup for everything was with Dollar store nail polish remover (with acetone) and so there was never any unpleasant smell. Soaking the airbrush parts in this solution for a few minutes then scrubbing them clean took all but 15 minutes... I did not use a primer and although I cleaned the plastic the paint can be scratched off with a finger nail if one tries... fortunately this head will not be handled much (if at all) so this was not a concern - but I would use a primer next time... ...hope this helps!

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

    • 4
    • 4
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Peterbilt 352 Cabover – Revell Kit 1964 From the Revell Instructions: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is in a class by itself with custom styling, functional design and uncommon rugged beauty. The impressive Peterbilt 352 tractor is a trucker's dream. This cabover engine design reflects Peterbilt's thoroughness in the manner that they engineer and build heavy duty trucks. Every Peterbilt that rolls off the assembly line is custom built to suit the needs of each customer. And on the Box: The Peterbilt 352 Cabover is a 10-wheeler with 110' cab and has comfort and elegance built into the driver's compartment and sleeper. The high standard of manufacturing excellence sets it apart from all other trucks. Length: 8 1/4" # of Parts: 59 Molded In: Light Blue Decals: Peel 'N Stick So, after nearly 10 years this project has returned to be the focus of my workbench... A square/rectangular brass frame was constructed to accommodate this body and the 10 wheels that it rolls on - using a high torque king can motor in an inline configuration with 8x29 gearing. The motor powers the first set of dual wheels - the second set tag along and can be removed with a pin for tighter tracks/corners. The cab is so large that in order to fit everything under the gantry/overpasses I will either need to lower it and open up the wheel wells or chop it shorter in some places - the jury is still out on which option to pursue... but for now here are a few spy shots from The Ring: BTW, this is no slouch - in its current configuration it will complete a lap in the 8 second range... but its real purpose will be to transport race models and/or pull a track conditioning/cleaning trailer... stay tuned!!! :good:

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 14
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1931 Ford Pickup Lindberg kit which I have had for a while.   Parts are from the usual sources, RSSlot wheels, Darts inserts, BWA 050 motor, scratch chassis.  Runs well, quite smooth.  Added a oak strip bed for effect.  Kind of experimented on the paint, dark red first coat, sanded then red on top.  I was look for an aged look but not sure it came off :unsure: .  

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 5
    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

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