Topics Engaged In
-
- Topic
- Voices
- Replies
- Last Post
-
-
Soldering Essentials for Chassis Building – What You Need 40/60W Soldering Iron Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons - Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip. Tinning Compound New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned. Solder A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis. Flux and Pre-Cleaning You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years. Post Cleaning Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush. Soldering Surfaces & Jigs You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters. Pliers/Cutters A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool. Rotary Tool A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube. Drill with Assortment of Bits Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering. Sandpaper You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces. Files Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks. Optional Tools A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes. Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.
Started by:
in: Workbench Essentials
- 6
- 12
- 3 years ago
-
Open Trans Am car suggestions I'm chuckling as I look through the list of cars that ran in the under 2-liter Trans Am class. Ford/Lotus Cortina, Ford Pinto, Chevy Vega, Ford Escort Mk1, Mini Cooper... just to mention but a few. I doubt anyone envied a driver that raced a Pinto. B-) I'm just curious if open TA means any car that can be proven to have raced in Trans Am between 1966 and 1973? As in cars from the list above. Porsche 911's included. Any motor in any proven Trans Am car? Scary thought. The reason I ask... I have a 1969 Porsche 911 and a 1971 Ford Escort Mk1. I can put 40k motors in both cars? :wacko: Cheers, Ken
Started by:
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 3
- 10
- 3 years ago
-
1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD. Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 6
- 13
- 3 years ago
-
Links to slot car sites I ordered some cars from this site some time ago and waited to see whether the site was a scram or not before passing it on. Wait time is fairly long and I wondered whether the site was legit or not. Pricing was quite good, in Canadian dollars, free shipping. Selection is very limited, and mixed in with a bunch of R/C stuff, but if they have something you are interested in and you don't mind waiting then it might work for you. Cars arrived yesterday, no unpleasant surprises, so site and pricing is as advertised. :good: https://www.shop4ca.com/radio-controlled-cars
Started by:
in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff
- 3
- 4
- 3 years ago
-
Porsche 550 Spyder No.351 as entered the 1954 Mille Miglia open-road endurance I've had this Revell model of the 550 Porsche Spyder sitting on my shelf for a few years; I decided to build an aluminium chassis for it. This is one of the aluminium chassis I built myself. Note, I am using PM brass bushings front and rear. This model will fall into the unlimited sports car field, it is set up with a Scalextric ff motor in an anglewinder configuration with a 10 pinion, 29 spur. Nice quiet gear mesh, runs very well, turning lap times equivalent to a stock group C car in its first few laps. I think there is room for improvement with the addition of some weight. I may decide to convert it to an inline configuration after some additional testing. It's pretty simple with this chassis design, just pop the glued in motor out using a screw driver, mix a new batch of epoxy and glue it in again in the desired configuration. A 10 to 15 minute process. The car is set up with MRRC wheels; 13.6 x 5mm fronts and 13.6 x 7 mm rear. These are very nice wheels, designed to take many different size inserts, they are available with a long or short boss, these have the short boss for easy access and they use a 2.6mm set screw which does not strip very easily. A great looking model. Some additional shaping work is required to conceal the chassis it will be cut into a pointed configuration at the rear and painted black. Look forward to racing this model soon... ZOOM ZOOM!
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 2
- 3 years ago
-
Shelby GT-350 I started this car before I had proper direction. A newbie mistake if you will. I did not realize when I chose the "Candy Lime Green" colour that S32 Sportscar class stops at 1965. After a little bit of digging. I found a 1966 Shelby GT-350 that was entered in the 1967 Targa Florio (#210). A scarce American Mustang among a field of mostly European cars. It didn't make the race due to an accident during practice. It became a one-of-a-kind GT-350 BBQ. There are very few pictures of this car simply because it didn't race. This Shelby was all white. After taking 3-days to remove some really nice paint. The "Candy Lime Green" Shelby became all white. The chassis. I put a little more effort into manipulating the rear of the chassis so it tucks under the rear valance. Measure twice, cut once. The Shelby fits in the GT+2.0 class and requires a Scalex 18k motor. I went with 9x28 gears with an offset crown to keep the CG as low as possible. You can still see hints of green under the body. Hard to get it all out. The chassis tucks nicely under rear valance. It's a tight fit. The car came with black wheels. Inserts are D'Art 5-spokes. The car sits fairly low. The body could have gone even lower. But it's my humble opinion that it would not improve the look even though there might be a slight handling improvement to lowering it further. It's very difficult see the chassis under the body unless you lay your eye on the track. Mission accomplished in my books. The car has body-float.The tires don't rub on the fenders even at the extreme flex of the body-float. But they sure can't get any closer than they already are. It should be ready for the next Targa Florio. Thanks for looking.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 5
- 3 years ago
-
Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 5
- 10
- 3 years ago
-
59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 7
- 27
- 3 years ago
-
The only road-legal Porsche 917 in the world? Count Gregorio Rossi (Martini & Rossi) was once photographed driving his road legal Porsche 917 from Stuttgart to Paris. That finally explains why Fly made this car. I've always thought it was interesting, But never knew it actually existed. The body has an external ID number making it legal for R32 Classic LeMans. The licence plate counts as a number. The last 2-digits are #37.
Started by:
in: Modified Slot Car Models
- 3
- 8
- 3 years ago
-
Rio Grand Prix (Gavea) 1934 – 1937 In the 1930's the Grande Prêmio da Cidade de Rio de Janeiro were held on the infamous 11.16km long Gavea track known locally as Trampolin do Diablo ("The devil's spring board"). This course followed the coast on the edge of a cliff and returned to Gavea up in the mountains where it featured a series of hairpins in hazardous terrain... a wonderful historic course! And the vehicles that raced there ranged from lowly Ford V8's to Alfa's, Ferrari's, Bugatti's and yes - even an Autounion! Click on the attached .pdf below to review this article - it features interesting facts with numerous pictures about an obscure Grand Prix course and the pilots and their cars that navigated it... Enjoy! :yahoo:
Started by:
- 4
- 10
- 3 years ago
-
#40 – 1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 This build is the famous #40-1970 Targa Florio Porsche 908/3 which has been has in progress for more than six, months due to delays with the decals arriving in a timely manner due to the pandemic. I custom designed and printed decals for this model. The orange section in front of the car will be painted on as it proved to be impossible to get a decals to adhere to this area in an acceptable manner. Photos of the actual car My attempt The body has been paired with a custom built aluminium chassis - 100% built by the JMS garage. The 21.5k Piranha motor has been glued onto the chassis in an AW configuration. Originally I had used a 12T pinion, which was switched to 11T to get more brake. This photo with windshield and gas caps installed. Ready to race... zoom, zoom. Thanks for looking.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 6
- 3 years ago
-
1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building. Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960). Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy. A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor. I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it. The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view... The lighting is poor in this photo. Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week. Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 6
- 13
- 3 years ago
-
Auto Union Type C D’Arts
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 8
- 4 years ago
-
Alfa Romeo 8C
Started by:
- 5
- 6
- 4 years ago
-
Ferrari 1512
Started by:
- 5
- 6
- 4 years ago
-
32 Ford Hot Rods without fenders is unexplored territory for me. No one in the group has a 1932 Ford. The kit has many parts. Only a few will end up being used. This is just the body and front grill from the kit. I can't hide the front part of the chassis. I might as well figure out a way to make it part of the Hod Rod.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 15
- 4 years ago
-
D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 11
- 4 years ago
-
1934 Aston Martin Ulster kit for the Pre-War GP series in S32 (This is my very first post to any forum or website, so please excuse any peculiarities!) I have always been interested in cars from this era. I have the 1/24’th scale Heller kits of the 1930 Bentley 4.5 Blower, the 1932 Alfa Romeo 1750cc Zagato, the 1927 Bugatti T35B, the 1930 Bugatti T50, the 1936 Mercedes Benz 540K, and a few others. I have not built them yet because there has been no track to run them on, and the people racing 24’th scale don’t seem interested in vintage cars. So I was glad to find that S32 was considering a series for them. I recently bought three Matchbox 1/32’nd scale kits: the 1934-36 Aston Martin Ulster, the 1936-41 Jaguar SS (Swallow Sidecars)/100, and the 1933-34 Bugatti T59 GP. I am also inquiring on the shipping cost for a 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C; it’s an old MPC kit, so no chrome parts and no rubber tires. Here’s my Aston Martin Ulster kit: Having never built a 32’nd scale model, I did a dry-fit build of most of the parts, to test the fit and do some measurements. It has a ride height/track clearance of 7.5 mm at the Rr axle and slopes upward to the front. The finely detailed chrome two-piece spoke rims have a diameter of 14.8 mm. It has rubber/vinyl tires, well cast tread detail, with a total diameter of 23.0 mm installed on rim, and a width of 4.8 mm. The wheelbase is 81.0 mm and the Rr track is 53.3 mm without the wing nuts, same at front. The width of the body/chassis plate just in front of the Rr axle is 30 mm. I hope to use the kit’s spoke rims as detailed wheel inserts on the scale racer, as well as the front tires. (Unfortunately I may not be able to devote enough time to the hobby for the next few months, a few of my other projects have been set aside for too long.) Thanks; hope to see you at the races. Felix.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 5
- 20
- 4 years ago
-
Removing Decals or Tampo Print – Super Clean Sometimes you just want to remove the livery from a nicely painted body before priming. If you do not, then you compromise the quality and adhesion of the new paint, not to mention that you may see the raised edges of the prior tampo afterwards. To do this you can use 'Super Clean' - Tough Task Cleaner-Degreaser typically found in a 3.78L purple container: You can source Super Clean from Canadian Tire, among other retailers. To get your best bang for the buck you can re-use the same fluid on multiple bodies/parts - I like the dollar store clear plastic containers which come in various sizes with a snap on rubber gasket lid - like the 8"l x 5"w x 3"h (I'm guessing there) Betty Crocker storage containers (with the red lid). Let the pieces sit and soak for days (or even a week if necessary). If anything remains remove it with gentle rubbing (or a non-abrasive brush). Rinse in clean water and dry. You've now removed traces of the old livery and can either prime/re-paint or apply new decals...
Started by:
- 3
- 4
- 4 years ago
-
1936 Auto Union Type C Hopefully this will get finished in time for the next race. This car was painted at the last paint workshop. Then stripped and repainted. Second time was the charm. Quite the challenge to fit an aluminum chassis under this body.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 2
- 8
- 4 years ago
-
Porsche 550 Spyder prototypes – Everything you ever wanted to know In researching the Porsche 550 Spyder for a recent build. I stumbled into a very informative site. It's called type550.com. The home-page is below. Not sure why it doesn't list the name. http://type550.com/ It has serial numbers with the various changes the cars went through such as colour changes, bumper changes, previous owner names, etc... It also lists the races each car entered, and where it placed.
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 2
- 2
- 4 years ago
-
Wheels: 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP) For those of you looking to upgrade your wheels for your 3.0L Grand Prix cars you should consider the following: Front - BW13-300-093-375 - which take a small BWA insert & the RM0202 (or CX0201) tire, depending on the look you wish to achieve; Rear - BW13-380-093-375 - which take a small BWA insert & the CX0202 (or RM0203) tire, depending on the look you wish to achieve; A larger 14mm diameter rear wheel (BW15-380-093-375) may be used in place of the rear wheels mentioned above if you wish to model a car that did have a larger diameter wheel in this period but with the overall tire diameter restriction of 22mm this will mean that you will give up the dampening (and grip) offered by a larger tire to wheel ratio... Cheers! :good:
Started by:
- 4
- 3
- 4 years ago
-
65 Mustang 2+2 My very first thread was February 2018. Before I knew how to scratch-build, I posted a pic of an Eldon Shelby GT350 that I put together using an old Hornsby plastic chassis. It ran like... an old Hornsby plastic chassis. What a surprise. You only get what you invest. It was unrealistic to hope for more. It was time to re-visit the old Mustang idea. But with a fresh start. This is an AMT static kit I painted at the cottage. This chassis was going to hang out more than any other on this car forcing me to re-invent the back section. It's not perfect. But it's an improvement.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 8
- 4 years ago
-
70 TA Camaro colour change I have a blue Z28 Camaro for stock TA class. There are several of the exact same colour and number. It was time to create Ken's red zed. It took 2-coats of paint over 2-days to cover the dark blue. I could not avoid orange-peel on the roof. More paint would have created runs and the rest of the car was too nice to ruin. I'll try buffing the roof.
Started by:
in: Modified Slot Car Models
- 3
- 5
- 4 years ago
-
Watkins Glen Historic 2019 Howard Cohen's Picture Gallery Hey guys I went to this event on the weekend and it was fantastic. Howard of Group 25 took many photos which are great reference for model/scratch builds. https://public.fotki.com/HowardCohen/watkins-glen-histor/ Cheers! Bill
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 4
- 4
- 4 years ago
-
Maserati 250F (Scalex body) There is a Shelby #5 car in the database already. So in an attempt to be different, I grabbed a can of Tamiya Coral Blue not knowing how the car would look. Without the details, it looks a bit scary. Over the top blue. The rest of the car made all the difference. Art's suggestion of white roundels really made the numbers and colour pop.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 4
- 4 years ago
-
Fairlane GT Classic Stock Car A Fairlane GT stumbled onto my workbench. So off I went... The package came with 13" inch wheels. Does anyone have an issue with 1967 5-spoke bullit inserts instead of the stock car inserts? Maybe the driver was friends with Steve McQueen and he gave him some wheels. Aren't bullit wheels period correct for a 1967 Ford? The car is still getting a roll bar, driver with steering wheel, fire extinguisher, inserts, and it's race ready.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 5
- 10
- 4 years ago
-
Auto Union Type C Decal Set For those of you looking for a complete set of Auto Union Type C decals here is a .jpg image you can print yourself...
Started by:
- 4
- 5
- 4 years ago
-
1963 Rover BRM (1969 Aurora dual purpose kit) I met a guy at the Torcan model show. He said he had a rare 1/32 dual purpose kit that came with parts to be static, or a slot car. He said it was a Rover BRM. I never heard of it, but I like my BRM 578. So my interested was peaked. The real car has a turbine engine! Nuts! The kit is at least 50-years old. Aurora Plastics was sold in 1969. Then again in 1971. The company was parted out in 1977. This is what came in the box. Besides missing the instructions, it's also missing one headlight from what I can tell. The chome roll bar, inserts, steering wheel, and tail light bezels all sparkle nicely. Some kits are so far from the real car that they are an insult to the manufacturer. This model may actually look a bit more sleek compared to the real car. I'm not complaining about this one in the least. It looks cool to me.
Started by:
in: Vintage Slot Cars
- 4
- 11
- 4 years ago
-
Alfa Romeo Fangio drives 159 Alfetta at 74 years (1985 Laguna Seca) We haven't had an Alfa video in a while. So........... Phil Hill and Juan Manuel Fangio drive the Tipo 159 F1 winning car from 1951 at the 1985 Monterey Historic Races at Laguna Seca which had Alfa Romeo as the featured marque. Lots of other Alfa's too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlKir_WYcck
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 2
- 1
- 4 years ago
-
D'Art Ferrari 312P The first time I laid eyes on Art's Ferrari 312P my brain said "I want that!". Based on using 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I started to rough out a chassis for bearings. Wasn't sure how to attach the body.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 31
- 4 years ago
-
Lotus 49 1st race out A good video on the Lotus 49's first race. With shades of Grand Prix cinematography. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6cm3eWEHM0
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 1
- 0
- 5 years ago
-
Motor Testing Many of you have already seen this I'm sure, but for those who haven't and are interested, and as it came up in conversation recently, a link to Bob Livingston's excellent article on motor testing. Scroll down through it and you get a good explanation of setup and how he tested RPM and Torque, and how torque was tested at lower voltages and then given an appropriate multiplying factor. This seemed to be an acceptable practice. If not entirely accurate, results with the same equipment and methodology should at least be relatively accurate. Setup's are relatively easy to duplicate should you be interested in doing it yourself. http://slotcarnews.blogspot.com/2007/02/slot-car-news-motor-list.html If anyone is further interested I could see if I could find the manufacturers graphs showing the same thing wrt torque.
Started by:
in: Slot Car Resources
- 4
- 3
- 5 years ago
-
Heritage con 2019 Anyone interested in picking up a plastic model or attending a seminar on weathering models might be interested in Heritagecon 2019 this Sunday at Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum in Hamilton. A large show with lots of vendors and you get to see the planes too!! :good: link below http://www.heritagecon.com/index.html
Started by:
in: Other Local Events & Happenings
- 2
- 1
- 5 years ago
-
Scalextric Eagle to Mclaren M5A conversion Hey guys While this is not an entirely scratch built car the body is completely redone to turn it into a McLaren. I started by disassembling the Eagle and stripping it using Super Clean then did some bodywork to fill some holes on the eagle and profile the nose a little. I also opened holes in front of the windshield and carved a new panel line there to be a little more accurate to the McLaren. Engine block was also ground down so I could convert it from an 8 cylinder Ford to a 12 cylinder BRM I then sprayed the body red and started fabricating engine detail parts. Custom parts included roll bar, oil cooler and mount, magneto, overflow canister, ignition coil, intake manifold and a new smaller windshield. I also sourced some metal ferrules to use as BRM inlet trumpets and a visor less head from D'art that looks a little more like Bruce Mclaren than Dan Gurney. Then it was time for reassembly and decals. I assembled the entire car back onto the repainted Scalextric Eagle Chassis but if Art chooses to mold them they could form the basis for a nicely detailed scratch build. Cheers Bill
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 6
- 10
- 5 years ago
-
1963 Honda T360 Pick Up 1963 Honda T360 Pick Up This low cost ARII Owner's Club model kit found its way to my hobby bench and was adapted/upgraded into a 'low power' track utility vehicle for The Ring. Background on the box reads: Honda was established in 1948, and since then, it kept introducing a lot of famous motor bikes. The model "Honda T360" was the first car that Honda produced. It was called "Sport Truck" rather than "Light Truck". It was mounted with a 354 cc, 4-carb HOHC engine, and could make the maximum 30 hp. Two months later, "Honda Sport 500" was marketed. It is tiny (but tall): body measures approx. 92mm x 40mm; front and rear track of 39mm; wheelbase of approx. 63mm with guide post set approx. 66mm from rear axle; and weighs approx. 61.2mm (complete). I kept it cheap by using a DArt guide, BWMS050 motor, 8T BWA pinion, scavenged Scalextric 28T crown gear, piano wire for axles and 1/8" brass tubing in place of bushings. In its finished form it is smooth and quiet but for my taste would still benefit with a 10T pinion - which it may get yet - time will tell... Since pictures are 'worth a 1000 words' here are some pictures of this build. You will note I first planned to use styrene clamps to fix the rear of the body to the rear axle sleeves but bailed on that plan for a more reliable method. A rear frame made from piano wire covered by tissue paper soaked in a solution of H2O and white glue (as suggested by f1nutz) plus DArt fog lamps were later added to this model. Several parts were extensively modified as the pictures indicate. I used navy blue tent repair tape to cover the sides of exposed motor and some scrap patio umbrella fabric (painted with a dark wash) courtesy of Porsche911 as mud flaps to cover the crown gear. [foogallery id="10642"] It is fun building something that isn't meant to race... Cheers!
Started by:
- 4
- 6
- 5 years ago
-
1968 Trans Am ‘Cinderella story’ video Hello Scratchers (Hmmm, does that sound right) :yahoo: Pretty cool video, 1968 Trans Am Javelin. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/yDJ6BhUrsak
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 4
- 8
- 5 years ago
-
Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.
Started by:
- 5
- 15
- 5 years ago
-
1950 Carrera Panamericana Video Here's a short video from the first Carrera Panamericana narrated by driver Jack McAfee and filmed (mostly in car from the front seat) by his co-pilot Ford Robinson - they went on to finish 10th in the race. https://youtu.be/sXk1jQU7Kxg
Started by:
- 3
- 3
- 5 years ago
-
Super Macro as a building tool I remember finishing my first car and being all proud of it. Then I took a bunch of pictures. After examining the photos I thought "Is this the car I just built? Look at all the flaws!!! The build threads I posted have all been an eye opener from what the naked eye can see, and what the camera can see. I make it a habit now to take many more pictures of my builds than I post. I do it now just to catch details my eye did not detect. It helps keep my building standards a bit higher. Ken
Started by:
in: How To – Paint It
- 3
- 3
- 5 years ago
-
Ferrari 512 S I bought this car a while ago and it had some problems. The chassis had a broken pod post. I don't have an unlimited car for the up coming Targa Florio so I started this project earlier tonight. I found an interesting way to get a sidewinder mated to an aluminum chassis. The pod is the original from the car. I had to make a small cut to both sides of the motor to get the double-flange bearings to fit. 4-screws and a little epoxy will secure the pod to the chassis. Ken
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 8
- 5 years ago
-
C3 Corvette I found this kit a while back. The body is reasonable. I like the car. I was the kid on the bike in the background when this car was new in 69.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 6
- 23
- 5 years ago
-
Bugatti Type 59 I thought I would join in on the pre-war builds. Anyone doing a 1934 Bugatti Type 59? I spied a kit, so before I buy I wanted to check with the group. Thanks Dave Dave
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 5
- 22
- 5 years ago
-
Charger 500 Classic Stock Car When I first started with S32. Art was generous enough to donate a stock-car body for build inspiration (Thank you very kindly again). How to build the car eluded me for a long time. I even tried to buy the original plastic chassis for the car out of frustration on how to go about the build. But I couldn't find one. I eventually bought another complete new car (Ford Talladega) in hopes to get into the CSC circle. Then time passes and a few builds later... I now look at the new plastic car and wonder "what was I thinking?". It would take me just as much effort if not more to prepare the plastic chassis now. That being said. The stock-car build begins. The inspiration was clearly a success. It's nice to build a car I don't have to paint or detail for a change. Being an aluminum chassis. I might need to add some weight to get it to 100-grams. I ordered a pound of lead. :good: The assembly begins... Ken
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 6
- 5 years ago
-
63 Split window Corvette Stingray We had a workshop recently where we drilled a chassis for roller bearings and a guide. The chassis fits a 63 split window coupe kit made by AMT.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 19
- 5 years ago
-
Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 17
- 5 years ago
-
Fasteners and set-screws If anyone ever needs a set-screw or fastener. Try Spaenaur.com out of Kitchener. They stock everything no one else has. They ship to your door. It's sometimes cheaper to buy a bulk box of 50 than it is to buy 10 from a store. They also sell brass inserts etc... Ken
Started by:
in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces
- 4
- 7
- 5 years ago
-
Controller brake pots I just shorted out my controller recently and created a dead spot on the brake pot. After doing some research, this is what I found out. The following is pasted from Andrew Smith, CEO at Professor Motor. One important tech tip to help the brake pot – when finished racing turn the pot always to the “full brake” position so that IF the controller is hooked up incorrectly then the circuit breaker that is on the circuit board will protect the pot – if the brake is not at “full” when a controller is misconnected the short circuit that the pot sees will likely cause damage. No need to add a fuse .. there is already a self resetting electronic circuit breaker that we designed in on the circuit board .. that circuit breaker replaced the fuse that we used to use years ago … but any fuse or breaker is not effective if the pot is partially on (unfortunately) Ken
Started by:
in: Slot Car Resources
- 4
- 3
- 5 years ago
-
Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.
Started by:
in: Slot Car Resources
- 5
- 11
- 5 years ago
-
Coppa D’oro Trials Some time was found to run trials for the new Scratch32 Golden Era Pre-War models - and so the Coppa D'oro was born.[foogallery id="8039"] After nearly a century it is never too late...
Started by:
- 4
- 6
- 5 years ago
-
Vintage A great initial get together for the 1934 Correa Ford V8 Special from the Rio GP and Sir Tim's 1930 4 1/2L Blower Bentley from LeMans!!! Both ran remarkably well while still maintaining their correct 'tall' appearance. Maybe even more remarkable was that despite a big dis-similarity in weight, size, motor and gearing, both cars made similar enough lap times that racing will actually be feasible and fun and they looked spectacular together on the track!! World's apart as 1:1 racers, but they didn't appear inappropriate together today. This is going to be fun!! :yahoo:
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 1
- 0
- 5 years ago
-
Draft Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines v4.0 – May, 2018 Gentlemen, I've prepared and attached an update in draft format of the current Scratch32 Rules & Guidelines (v3.0) that addresses the following: Eliminates the confusing reference to 15" wheels and sets all of the basic wheel sizes in metric (millimeters); Offers a basis from which to calculate wheel diameter and width to avoid confusion and make compliance intuitive; These updates to wheel dimensions are not substantive - they do not change anything - but clarify the rules as they were; In hot rods wheel size is no longer restricted to 14mm wheels - hot rod wheels may be smaller in diameter since this does not offer any performance advantage; In hot rods the previously mandatory SC0120 DArt tire is now no longer mandatory but still highly recommended; In sportscars since we have the relatively new SP+ subclass the 'target' motor reference allowing any motor to be used especially for heavier models is no longer necessary and so the SP class is once again restricted to only 'Slow' motors listed in G7. All models using any other motor will be classed as SP+; The draft version reflects all of these changes. For convenience I've marked all of the changes as follows: deletions are crossed out; and additions are in red. Please feel free to print/review your own copy (attached below) and comment by replying to this thread or in person at our next scratch32 event. You must be logged in to review the attached draft and comment below.
Started by:
- 2
- 26
- 5 years ago
-
Mosport Vintage event? June 14th – 17th 2018 https://canadiantiremotorsportpark.com/pages/canadian-historic-grand-prix Formula 5000 is the feature this year so it should be a good one. If you have never been to this event or Mosport it is a great weekend to make your acquaintance with this historic track. Camping is free with weekend admission. Anyone going?
Started by:
in: Other Local Events & Happenings
- 2
- 6
- 5 years ago
-
Warm up for Ringwood A couple of clips to get one in the mood for the upcoming Ringwood. French G.P. 1965 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2XUs9_Uds4 1965 Nurburgring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8NoFM-xuKI 1967 German Grand Prix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRaAMzqYxpE Enjoy
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 1
- 0
- 5 years ago
-
Clip from the 1956 movie Checkpoint. Just for fun, a clip from the 1956 movie Checkpoint. A lot of 50's era sports cars in action here, with shots possibly from the Mille Miglia or the Targa Florio. B-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LgFhq8Rtqw
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 3
- 4
- 6 years ago
-
Bugatti Type 35B Airfix conversion Prewar open wheel cars anyone ? After the Can Am I took the opportunity to test my new Airfix Bugatti. This project has been on and off the bench for the last 10+ years. Considering the narrow tires and wheels and high ride height this simple wire chassis went better than expected. Lap times in the high 7 seconds. Present motor is an unusual half length narrow can which I wanted to try out. I'm going to switch it out for a BWA for comparison for the next test. Wheels and inserts are from Studio 64. Wheels are actually cast in a hard resin which I drilled and tapped for set screws. They seem strong enough to not slip on the axle in this low speed application. Tires are D'art hobbies special order. Molycote chrome pen was used for some of the metallic highlights. Strangely the kit came with 2 left windscreens and no rt. so I custom fabricated a mount in order to position the windshield in the more streamlined down position on the right side as it was often raced. It had pretty good torque but not a lot of braking. Maybe why our driver needs the hand brake lever outside the car. It also needs some race numbers. Thinking I might number it with 22 of 1930 Monaco race winner Rene Dreyfus who famously defeated favorite Louis Chiron by using an extra added fuel tank to avoid stopping in the pits. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwHavvwJB7E Thanks to Art for his great photos!
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 6
- 8
- 6 years ago
-
Porsche 550 Coupe Porsche 550 Coupe - 1956 Porsche at 1956 24h Le Mans. #25 RS 550 A/4 (#550A-0104) 1498 cm (Trips / Frankenberg). Engine 1.5cc. Working on a chassis. Need to add interior as well.
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 6
- 14
- 6 years ago
-
Porsche 356 SL It is a resin body and not a very good one (you get what you pay for). Spend almost a year trying to fix it up and still it is marginal. Decided to paint it up and decal anyway. It looks big but is under scale on length and height. Width is about 9-10 mm over scale. Porsche 356 SL – 1953 – 1488cc. 1953 Carrera PanAmericana S1.6 class. Car #199. Did not finish, over time limit. Driver - Joaquin Castillo de la Fuente. #356__2-054 Still working on the picture :wacko:
Started by:
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 3
- 6 years ago
-
A VERY cool Pioneer video https://youtu.be/QWAidDUDff4 Enjoy!
Started by:
in: Slot Related Curiosities, Oddities & One of a Kind
- 3
- 5
- 6 years ago
-
Utility Trailer Not all models are built to race. I recall past models that F1nutz kitbashed including a fire engine and a Team Honda service truck complete with crew – both of which were a pleasure to see on circuit. In that spirit I previously kitbashed a VW Track Maintenance Van and those of you who eyed the topic will recall that a trailer hitch was installed and mention was made of creating a trailer sometime down the road. Well we are down that road now and this Utility/Maintenance/Podium/Hauler scratch built trailer is finished. Since I don’t know how many trailers I will ever build this needed to be multi-purpose - so a flat bed would be both the easiest and the most practical – and would be able to lap the circuit with the victor and his car onboard to the cheers of the crowd lining the track post race. For any of you thinking of making something similar here is what I did. Maybe the pictures and a few details will help. The Parts The hitch design was simple and accepts a ring – so part of a dollar store silver coloured earring was perfect – the arm could be fixed easily within a brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. An assortment of K&S brass would be used – including both box and round brass tube stock along with some solid brass wire for the railing at the front. An assortment of K&S piano wire was used to brace the tongue and to make the retractable 5th wheel support assembly. Two BWA 13” 200” width wheels with a 1/16” bore would free spin on a 1/16” brass tube axle each held in place with a pin. Simple. Then 3/32” brass tube would hold the full length of the axle in place underneath the frame. Since the maximum weight will never exceed 200g nor will this model ever be raced the pins inside the brass tube axle should be more than enough to keep the assembly true for smooth operation. Because it will never be raced DArt RM0201 urethane tires were fitted but not trued or glued. 375MIDGET inserts were selected to finish the wheels. A third identical wheel would be prepared and installed as a spare too. Some 1/16” thick mahagony veneer - cut into boards, sanded and stained - would finish the trailer bed. The Build The bed needed to be able to accommodate all sizes of 1/32 scale models including some of the larger CANAM runners therefore I decided on a 15 x 7 ½ cm frame. Since there are some tight corners here at The Ring I opted to build this using a single axle. Both sides and the fore and aft frame pieces were each cut and soldered together making sure that the frame was perfectly flat and square. I used a commercial jig but any flat tile will suffice – just use some graph paper under your work to line up everything. Smaller square brass tube would be soldered to the inside of both lengths to support the planks which would be added later. Similar diameter cross pieces of brass tube were then fitted along the inner width for strength. Since these had to lie underneath the wooden planks they could not be larger in diameter than the inside lengths. The tongue was soldered to the underside of the frame. Since this was a single axle trailer I made sure to locate the axle slightly aft of the balanced centre of the frame to ensure the weight distribution was tilted slighly to the front. Since I didn’t have all of the trailer detail in place I just tacked the axle tube/sleeve so that if necessary, it could be adjusted after testing. Model placement on the flat bed was also considered to ensure that the trailer would perform properly. This was only necessary since I was fixing the length of the gap to accommodate the guide for any model. The hand rail was bent and additional rail detail added. This was easy to do using a pin jig while the piece lay flat. Then holes were carefully marked and drilled into the frame at each forward corner to accept the rail side posts. The spindles would simply rest on the frame but also be soldered in place after the sides. Two narrow flat strips of brass were bent and fashioned into fenders, then tacked into place. I eyeballed their position before tacking them to the frame. I opted to fabricate a pair of support legs underneath the front of the frame which could be lowered to support the trailer when parked or raised out of the way when hitched. To keep this 5th wheel rotating assembly raised up and out of the way I drilled a tiny hole and soldered a shortened ball point pin to function as a clip. This rotating assembly could therefore be ‘snapped’ into an upright position which would stay put. Tongue braces were added and then after measuring the height of the hitch a long 1/16” brass tube was soldered underneath the tongue into which the ring would be fixed. I also soldered another stationary 5th wheel detail piece to the side of the tongue, complete with skid plate. The completed trailer frame was then scrubbed clean using a bathtub cleanser to neutralize the acid flux residue. After everything was rinsed and dried I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the ring in place. Next I assembled the wheels and 1/16” brass tube axle then tested the contraption on track. What a joy! The balance was perfect. Together the van and trailer handled superbly around the circuit. Tight hairpins were never an issue for the independently spinning wheels/single axle setup and even at unrealistically high speeds the tandem stayed put. So without the need for adjustment to the axle or fenders it was on to paint. After priming the trailer with Tamiya Fine I decided to use Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green for the finish. Three light but even coats would do the trick. As for the wheels, I opted to go for a chrome like finish. Since the inserts had kidney shaped openings I hand painted the centre of the wheels flat black and left the rest of each wheel unpainted. The inserts were primed then sprayed with two coats of Krylon Chrome Finish. I added detail to the centre of the insert/hub using an assortment of Tamiya Acrylics and later finished the centre of each knock off with a dab of the Molotow Liquid Chrome. I also painted the 5th wheel details with more Tamiya Acrylics. The underside of the trailer would receive some basic leaf spring detail which I glued into place using more clear epoxy. The lumber was ripped and then cut into equal board lengths to fit across the width of the trailer bed. I also sized and cut small pieces to use at the rear of the bed – allowing a liberal sized gap for any guide [models would all face the back of the trailer]. Extra boards were cut which could be used for ramps. After sanding each board was stained with Minwax wood stain, the excess rubbed off and the planks set aside to dry. The lumber was carefully glued in place using more clear epoxy. Two boards which could be used as ramps together with a third smaller piece sized to fall into the guide space were all glued together. The purpose of the smaller piece was to keep the stacked ramps from sliding around during cornering. These could be placed on top of the bed to hide the guide slot whenever the trailer was bare. Finally, the third wheel was fixed to the top of the tongue using more clear epoxy. Cheers!… :good:
Started by:
- 5
- 9
- 6 years ago
-
Motor Restrictions & ‘Slow’ Motor Classes for Scratch32 Parts & manufacturers come and go, especially in this hobby. The lucky few, or sometimes the forward thinking stockpile what is now 'unobtainium' for everyone else. This has already happened with urethane tires. Now it is creating waves regarding motors, in particular 'slow' motors. In the past we've had motors come and go or if they've been around a while get replaced with identical looking faster editions. By now most of us should know that labels and ratings from manufacturers mean nothing and are only useful to identify a motor - that's it. Chris told me 'control the motor and grip and you'll have a level playing field'. I agree. I can control one end of this equation - the grip - by continuing to manufacture a single compound tire, which I've now done for a decade or so. I can also identify the tire with a coloured tamperproof mark - a small coloured dot through the meat of the tire. But motors are a completely different animal. I remember when the NC1 was the 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. Then I remember when the BWNC1 was the faster 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. I also remember when the 'Vanski' was the slim can FF050 'slow' motor of choice which is now unobtainium. So we are left with a minefield of replacement 'slow' motors with manufacturers' ratings all over the board. What compounds the issue is that others may scour the internet and then obtain what they claim to be a suitable replacement or in some cases the same thing. Almost always it isn't. I've never seen a double shaft stock 'scaley' motor - but others have made this claim. It isn't always their fault - those selling the 'slow' motors may mislabel or mislead. Those that cannot get a formerly available motor of choice are understandably frustrated. And those who try to help find suitable alternatives usually realize that their time and efforts only lead to disappointment and in some cases open a Pandora's box. Up to now I did believe that the Vanski era would eventually come to a close as these motors were used up, but apparently that is not happening fast enough. Discontent is greater than I thought and appears to be quite widespread. To me one thing is sure - this cyclical pattern of the availability of 'slow' motors will always be a problem. Some are still going to great lengths to band aid 'slow' motor classes by trying to acquire suitable replacements. Those with stockpiles of Vanski motors, or those with an army of models all with Vanski motors, have no interest in seeing this restriction altered or lifted. Is there a solution? I have a solution and I'll get to it next...
Started by:
- 4
- 14
- 6 years ago
-
Mosport Can Am 1973 A friend's pics Gentlemen As I may have told some of you a close friend very graciously gave me his father's pictures (who passed away) from Mosport Can Am race weekend in 1973. Ron Northcott (the photographer) was quite skilled and managed to capture Jody Sheckter's infamous spin which lost him the race from the lead at the start of lap 30. Mark Donohue who led the early running also had car issues and dropped back to finish mid pack. In one of the photos Donohue's car shows signs of damage to the front end which might indicate an incident involving another car or the barrier perhaps? I have never seen footage or pictures on the web. of the Sheckter incident so this could very well be the first time it has been documented in pics online Well I finally got round to scanning them and thought I would share. Porsche 914 Parade lap...lucky kid in the front car could it be our friend and fellow racer Johnny B? Lap1 Turn 1 Donohue #6 leads from Sheckter #0, Follmer #16, Kemp #23 (race winner) , John Cordts #9 and Haywood in the #59 Brumos Lap 2? or later... Same order but a little more settled in Further back in the field...Bob Nagel Lola, Scooter Patrick #8 and Shadow DN2 of Jackie Oliver, Agor #13 and Durst in the #3 Vasek Polak sister car to Sheckter's
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 4
- 9
- 6 years ago
-
Porsche 917/10 debut Mosport 72 For your viewing pleasure! And, interesting blip at about the 8min mark... https://youtu.be/uO-70EQ8mPA :yahoo:
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 3
- 3
- 6 years ago
-
RIP Mr. Gurney: A life well lived… With an interview with Dan towards the end. :rose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fl3HRvv1qWo&feature=youtu.be
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 3
- 2
- 6 years ago
-
Cobra vs. Ferrari A BBC documentary with some some good historical footage of the era. A good way to spend the last few hours of your year. Happy New Year all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vojnf8shDHY&feature=youtu.be
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 2
- 1
- 6 years ago
-
Chevron B21 vrs B19 Having scooped the Chevron B21 in the post race auction of the IROC Race of Champions, the challenge raised was to describe the differences between a B21 and B19. The B19 car had closed cockpit over the passenger seat and roll hoops where not full width. The B21 had to be open cockpit over the passenger seat, full cockpit width and full windscreen due to new rules which stated in 1972 the cars had to be 2 seaters. In 72, a change in tire type occurred. Slicks came along and some cars ran the treaded tire and some tried slicks which had a different side wall height. As such, this could result in a modification for B21s rear wishbone lengths / camber castor ride height. The differences between B19 and B21 chassis is that the B19 has a narrower central member between the "seats" about 3" wide. The B21 was made wider (due to new rules) about 5". The side pods on the B21 are narrower than the B19 to accomodate the wider centre section without increasing the overall width. Happy New Year. :yahoo: Dave
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 4
- 4
- 6 years ago
-
Sebring 1957 Just to see how this works, so we may as well have the Wayback go way back. These images are from my dad's collection taken almost 60 years ago, so please keep them within the group. Due to the 100k suggested limit the images have become a bit grainy. Should anyone be interested contact me for larger file sizes. As time goes by I'll try to figure how to add a little info to each image.
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 5
- 19
- 6 years ago
-
Just for fun So, just for fun, what is this type of construction called? Who developed it? Who used it? Bonus marks for major benefits and major drawbacks. More bonus marks for how some of these drawbacks were mitigated to some extent. And a guess at which car is in the photo above.
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 3
- 7
- 6 years ago
-
Interesting VW and site Greetings, stumbled upon this site whilst looking for information on the resin body/kit I picked up at thee SLotcar show, a 'Daimler 250' (thanks for ID'ing MiA!) the wee beast had a V8 Hemi!...ANyway, look at this VW, don't believe I've ever seen 1, and what a beaut. You could make it yours too...$$$ Lots of other 1:1 Candy. :good: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-puma-gt-1600/
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 2
- 4
- 6 years ago
-
Porsche 356 Super – 1952 La Carrera Panamericana #10 1952 Carrera Panamericana - ‘S’ class - #10 Porsche 356 Super (von Berckheim/Linge/von Hohenlohe) – DNF accident 3rd leg I forgot about this Carrera Panamericana project which I started last spring. I’ll list the parts and products used which together with a few pictures should at the least supplement my own memory down the road if anything worked particularly well (or not). In each project I try to incorporate lessons learned from my prior mistakes and from the tips of others – but old habits are hard to break. Nevertheless here is what I used and how it went together for better or worse. It was important to me to that this model had an appropriate stance and was not ‘slammed’. As always I sorted my wheels and tires before starting the chassis. Once I knew the overall diameter of the front and back wheels/tires I set up my jig to shoot for a chassis clearance of approximately 3mm which in most cases will allow for a slightly higher body position and therefore in my opinion a more suitable stance and overall look. The body was a Ninco classic Porsche 356 with the plate light, tail pipe openings, tear drop tail lamps as well as front turn signal provisions filled in using Tamiya white putty. Everything was primed and painted with Tamiya rattlers – white primer and two coats of Racing White. It isn’t clear to me from the black and white photos what the exact colour was so I did not sweat it and chose one which looked nice. The decals were all created using whatever images I could find and modify from the internet using Microsoft Photodraw and Word then custom printed using my inkjet printer and given two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear (Gloss) to seal them. No clear coat was applied to this body since the paint itself already had a nice gloss finish. On closer inspection some of the areas that I filled with Tamiya putty are still distinguishable but I decided not to spend any more time on the body. The chromed pieces (ie. mirror, wipers, handles, headlamp bezels, etc.) were all stripped and repainted using Krylon Chrome then dipped in Pledge acrylic floor polish (with a drop of windex added) to seal each piece. Although sealing the chrome dulled it somewhat I opted to seal it for better protection from handling, especially the door handles and rocker trim. The headlamps were dipped in Pledge acrylic before mounting and front and rear signal/tail lights together with reflectors were positioned and fixed in place using Gorilla Glue clear epoxy – as were all of the accent pieces. The interior was the very slightly modified Ninco classic Porsche 356 interior but I used a different pilot and upgraded the steering wheel. The interior was painted but remained black with red accents/stripes on the seats and together with the single piece glass secured in place using Gorilla clear epoxy. The completed body and interior weighs in at 24.7 grams which includes a pair of brass body post inserts for 440 screws. I kept things simple and just sleeved the existing body posts using #227 Evergreen styrene tubing although I did add some bracing to the front post. For the chassis I pulled four BW15-200 series wheels which were painted at the same time as the body and mounted DArt SC0118 tires front and back (I used the slightly smaller SC0118F on the front). I opted for a sidewinder setup and decided to go old school and just use brass tubing to hold the front and rear axles. To keep things even simpler I made the Ninco NC1 motor can a part of the chassis and soldered both the front half of the chassis and the rear axle tubing directly to the can. For those concerned about the effect of heat on the motor magnets and plastic endbell it would be possible given how this chassis was constructed to remove the endbell along with the motor guts and solder only the can in place then reinsert everything but since the target motor for this class is a ‘slow’ motor which is not to be opened I left it as is. A plastic repop of the classic Ninco guide was secured using 4mm brass tube soldered to a custom made brass front plate. At the back an additional ‘U’ shaped piece of piano wire would hold both the sliding (front to back) rear body post plate which I made plus the aluminium exhaust pipes. Since this model will need some added weight in the front I fashioned three brass plates plus a couple of .032 wires and soldered them all together to create a rattle pan which can be easily installed (or removed and further tweaked for tuning) to the chassis and which is secured in place by the front body post/screw. After carefully scrubbing the steel wire and the motor with a water and Ajax mix and then sanding/polishing everything I applied/rubbed a little Brasso metal polish to everything. For improved cornering a Dubro #2 steel washer was soldered to the solid front axle thereby allowing one wheel to spin free. As for gearing a test fitting would prove that a Slot.It 6.5mm pinion would mesh adequately with an 18mm Slot.It spur gear. Although the range for this gear set yields potential ratios that are much lower than optimal that is still fine with me. Given the construction of this chassis I can use my pinion puller and press to replace the pinion without unsoldering anything. After some initial track break-in and testing I opted to drill out approximately 2g of material from the rattle pan. Overall weight of this model is now 81.3 grams. I also changed the pinion to a 13 tooth. After placing the rattle pan into the chassis I mounted the body. Before securing the body to the chassis with a pair of 440 brass screws I added a little white glue to the insert threads to help prevent the screws from backing out during a race. I also used DArt number 2 urethane washers to space the body from the chassis. Gluing them in place will save some time down the road too. [If you have sufficient clearance you can also add a urethane spacer under each screw head which will also prevent the screws from backing out.] If your body rolls too much you might need to either remove one or both of the urethane spacers or insert a stop bar. In this case there was no issue with excessive roll. Now this model is ready! :good:
Started by:
- 3
- 2
- 6 years ago
-
The way it was: Mosport 1967 Team Lotus refueling, 1967 Canadian Grand Prix at Mosport. Much simpler times, a far cry from what we see today!!
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 3
- 13
- 6 years ago
-
Jim Clark BBC Documentary Hi lads, hope you're all enjoying the summer...saw this on SCI, hour long BBC video, well worth your time if you have it! https://youtu.be/BINkmyNKPb8 Enjoy! :good:
Started by:
in: Drivers of the Past
- 3
- 2
- 6 years ago
-
2017 Vintage GP at Mosport this weekend Anyone going to Mosport this weekend? If so the F1 Masters series will be there. Looks like about 15 vintage F1 cars from the entry list including Tyrells, Shadows, Lotii etc...don't miss the chance to do some close up research on these amazing cars from all over the world. https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.status/uidEvent/E332951C-A23B-9C37-6E286542DAB5A903#group1-642B4139-C8F7-353B-F108B5ABF23C4C69 Please note I checked the race schedule and the F1 Masters series are only running on Fri and Sat NOT Sunday. http://www.varac.ca/varac/documents/festival/2017/2017%20On%20Track%20Schedule.pdf Hope to see you there! I'll probably be camping between turn 3 and 4 if you want to stop by for a cold beverage. Look for a line of vintage street cars and I'll be near there...or wandering the paddock. Cheers Bill
Started by:
in: Other Local Events & Happenings
- 4
- 7
- 6 years ago
-
The Green Hell Movie screening this Wed around Toronto If anyone is interested this new doc about the Ring is screening this wed only at various theatres. http://www.torontomovies.ca/movie/ontario/richmond-hill/silvercity-richmond-hill/the-green-hell-legendary-demanding-deadly/125332/ Here's more info https://www.thegreenhellmovie.com/
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 4
- 5
- 6 years ago
-
Upcoming Changes – Domain Name Change and New Format Upcoming Changes – Domain Name Change and New Format With the beginning of May approaching and the commencement of the scratch32 summer racing schedule the timing couldn’t be more perfect to initiate change regarding the r32 website. The existing format and layout are just too restrictive to satisfy scratch32 goals. So later this week and over this coming weekend I will be making several changes. All articles, photographs and forum resources will remain available and easily accessible by everyone after this weekend – but the emphasis of non-forum related material will shift exclusively to scratch32. - Cheers! - Art
Started by:
- 3
- 3
- 7 years ago
-
1966 Targa Florio Video Slide Show A wonderful slideshow from a participant of the Targa - this is the first of many from the same individual covering the years up to the early 1970's... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rb0oMBojZY&sns=em :good:
Started by:
- 2
- 2
- 7 years ago
-
Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite 1968 Canadian Grand Prix: St. Jovite PQ. 1968 Rolling to the start line. What a front row!! :yahoo: Right Jack?? :scratch: It might be just the angle, but it sure looks like the rear wing dihedral has changed under load??? :unsure: Apparently someone had a sense of humor?? :wacko:
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 1
- 0
- 7 years ago
-
Canadian GP Mosport – September, 1961 From September 1961: Before becoming a Formula one race it was a race for sports racers. Olivier Gendebien in a Lotus 19. Retired with transmission problems. Stirling Moss in another Lotus 19. Finished 3rd. Nice colour?? :wacko:
Started by:
in: Historical 1:1
- 3
- 5
- 7 years ago
-
